Question:

I am planning a trip to the Outer Banks of NC in August, probably staying on Cedar Island and boating over to the back of the core banks where I would like to do some fly fishing. My fly fishing experience is limited to cold water trout streams. I have no saltwater fly fishing experience, and I have not visited the Outer Banks before. Is my plan reasonable? Is the western side of the national seashore good for fly fishing? Are the waters around Cedar Island good for fly fishing? What species of fish can I expect to catch in this area on flies? What flies are good for use in this area? Thank you, Bob

Response:

I am planning a trip to the Outer Banks of NC in August, probably staying on Cedar Island and boating over to the back of the core banks where I would like to do some fly fishing. My fly fishing experience is limited to cold water trout streams. I have no saltwater fly fishing experience, and I have not visited the Outer Banks before. Is my plan reasonable? Is the western side of the national seashore good for fly fishing? Are the waters around Cedar Island good for fly fishing? What species of fish can I expect to catch in this area on flies? What flies are good for use in this area? Thank you, Bob

FWIW, if I were you I would consider hiring a guide for a day or two. Your trout equipment is going to be unsuitable in the salt due to salt water corrosion problems. In addition it is not uncommon to hook fish that run a long way, and without sufficient backing, you are likely to lose a fly line as well as ruin a reel.  A guide will help you with your casting which probably is going to be in windy conditions. Casting is much different in salt water conditions. I have no monetary connections with guides, but some of the best money I have ever spent was for guides when I was visiting in unfamiliar places and fishing unknown waters. Give ROFF a report when you get back.

Response:

Try contacting Gordon Churchill, a local guide in that area at http://www.geocities.com/capt_gordon/ .  He’s a good fellow and has always provided good information whether you hire him or not.   Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am planning a trip to the Outer Banks of NC in August, probably staying on Cedar Island and boating over to the back of the core banks where I would like to do some fly fishing. My fly fishing experience is limited to cold water trout streams. I have no saltwater fly fishing experience, and I have not visited the Outer Banks before. Is my plan reasonable? Is the western side of the national seashore good for fly fishing? Are the waters around Cedar Island good for fly fishing? What species of fish can I expect to catch in this area on flies? What flies are good for use in this area? Thank you, Bob

Response:

I am planning a trip to the Outer Banks of NC in August, probably staying on Cedar Island and boating over to the back of the core banks where I would like to do some fly fishing. My fly fishing experience is limited to cold water trout streams. I have no saltwater fly fishing experience, and I have not visited the Outer Banks before. Is my plan reasonable? Is the western side of the national seashore good for fly fishing? Are the waters around Cedar Island good for fly fishing? What species of fish can I expect to catch in this area on flies? What flies are good for use in this area? Thank you, Bob

http://www.google.de/search?q=NC+Cedar+Banks+fishing&hl=de&meta= Turned up over five thousand hits.  Must be at least a few with exactly the info you want. TL MC

Response:

Purely out of curiosity, I checked a few, sounds pretty good. http://www.coastalguide.com/packet/fishing01.htm http://www.icw-net.com/fish.htm http://www.outerbanks.com/fishing/fishcal.htm http://www.ufish.com/regions/_nc.htm#COASTAL These were all from the first hit. Wish I was going with you. TL MC

Response:

Thank you everyone for the replies. I E-mailed Capt. Churchill and am going to give serious thought to hiring him. Bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try contacting Gordon Churchill, a local guide in that area at http://www.geocities.com/capt_gordon/ .  He’s a good fellow and has always provided good information whether you hire him or not.   Tom I am planning a trip to the Outer Banks of NC in August, probably staying on Cedar Island and boating over to the back of the core banks where I would like to do some fly fishing. My fly fishing experience is limited to cold water trout streams. I have no saltwater fly fishing experience, and I have not visited the Outer Banks before. Is my plan reasonable? Is the western side of the national seashore good for fly fishing? Are the waters around Cedar Island good for fly fishing? What species of fish can I expect to catch in this area on flies? What flies are good for use in this area? Thank you, Bob

Response:

Question:

Good post snipped. I’m definitely no streamer expert but many writers have commented that the eyes on a streamer are a trigger for the fish. Gary LaFontaine even ties a streamer with the eyes at the rear of the fly (near the hook bend) to help eliminate all the missed strikes. Willi

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good post snipped. I’m definitely no streamer expert but many writers have commented that the eyes on a streamer are a trigger for the fish. Gary LaFontaine even ties a streamer with the eyes at the rear of the fly (near the hook bend) to help eliminate all the missed strikes. Willi

That’s the reason for the Sedge Hook Perch.  Instead of moving the eyes back, I’m moving the hook point forward. Peter

Response:

The first Sedge Hook Perch is on ABPF.  Not a great first effort and I wasn’t able to get any olive cafltail – used bucktail instead so the profile is not what I hoped, but you can get the idea.  Vertical bars are done with black magic marker. Peter

Response:

<< There are some designs that put the hook much closer to the head of the streamer. Gartside does it with his marabou soft hackles, others as well use shorter shank hooks with streamer materials extending far past bend. This could be done, I suppose, as long as the materials don’t foul around the gape of hook. <<  Tom Littleton This is one of the virtues of the Lefty’s Deceiver and Kreh and Clouser’s Half & Half.  Lefty Kreh also writes that big fish are head hunters. GKT

Response:

<< There are some designs that put the hook much closer to the head of the streamer. Gartside does it with his marabou soft hackles, others as well use shorter shank hooks with streamer materials extending far past bend. This could be done, I suppose, as long as the materials don’t foul around the gape of hook. <<  Tom Littleton This is one of the virtues of the Lefty’s Deceiver and Kreh and Clouser’s Half & Half.  Lefty Kreh also writes that big fish are head hunters. GKT

Saltwater patterns have used this approach for years as the fish are known headhunters, but apart from clousers, there aren’t many freshwater versions.  Though I didn’t start out the Sedge Hook Perch with a particular saltwater fly in mind, it certainly did end up resembling one.   Since I can’t make much use of it till next year, if anybody would like to try a couple, email me your snail mail and I’ll send them off. In return, you have to post your results. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Peter, That is a good looking fly you posted on ABPF. I wish more people would post flies on ABPF. Reading a description of a fly just doesn’t cut it. I think the streamer tied on a short shanked hook has a better "look" and it probably would have better action. What do you use for eyes? Willi

Response:

: That is a good looking fly you posted on ABPF. I wish more people would : post flies on ABPF. Reading a description of a fly just doesn’t cut it. Many, maybe even most, of us don’t get ABPF… JonCook.

Here ya go Jon. http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html Peter has graciously allowed for this information to be posted at ez. Thanks Peter…. –Walt — Walter G. Winter Ezflyfish.com:  http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

Response:

Peter, That is a good looking fly you posted on ABPF. I wish more people would post flies on ABPF. Reading a description of a fly just doesn’t cut it. I think the streamer tied on a short shanked hook has a better "look" and it probably would have better action. What do you use for eyes? Willi

They’re on a peel and stick sheet.  I cover them with flex cement afterward or they’d just drop off. Peter

Response:

: That is a good looking fly you posted on ABPF. I wish more people would : post flies on ABPF. Reading a description of a fly just doesn’t cut it. Many, maybe even most, of us don’t get ABPF…

So ask your university sysop to add it. ‘Tain’t no big thang… /daytripper

Response:

Many, maybe even most, of us don’t get ABPF… So ask your university sysop to add it. ‘Tain’t no big thang…

Spoken like a man who’s never been a university sysop. — Ken Fortenberry- never got ABPF

Response:

Many, maybe even most, of us don’t get ABPF… So ask your university sysop to add it. ‘Tain’t no big thang… Spoken like a man who’s never been a university sysop.

Well, true, I was never a sysop in college, and my college days preceded Usenet anyway (360/20 programmer "back in the days" when real computers ran on air)… But the "no big thang" was referring to the *asking*. As we both know the actual *doing* is trivial…even for a university sysop. /daytripper (Even those that call central Illinois "Home" ;^)

Response:

Well, true, I was never a sysop in college, and my college days preceded Usenet anyway (360/20 programmer "back in the days" when real computers ran on air)…

Ah yes, those were the days. We had one of the few 360/44’s, kind of a RISC precursor I suppose, without the complete instruction set so math operations were faster. We had a 1620 prior to that and a ‘hands on’ 1130 w/8K RAM<g. — Charlie…

Response:

http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html

Do most of you who post pics of flies use digital cameras?  If so, do they have built-in macros or did you have to do something else to get close-up shots? Mu

Response:

http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html Do most of you who post pics of flies use digital cameras?  If so, do they have built-in macros or did you have to do something else to get close-up shots?

"long"? I use an Oly C2020Z which has built-in macro capability. However, I usually top the lens off with a macro multiplier (I have a 2X and a 4X) to really fill the frame and make the most of the CCD (rather than crop down the shot and lose pixels). I think I can speak for "Vern" and Paul G wrt your questions: they both shoot using C2020Z’s , but I’m pretty sure they haven’t bought the macro multipliers yet. My matched brace of Nikkormats, an F5, and a Minolta (all SLRs) are all feeling very lonely and neglected these days… /daytripper ("Totally Digital"  ;^)

Response:

http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html Do most of you who post pics of flies use digital cameras?  If so, do they have built-in macros or did you have to do something else to get close-up shots? Mu

I just stick ‘em in my scanner, squish the buggers then crop ‘em. Looks like hell but people know they’re flies. Peter the always helpful

Response:

Olympus 2020, does macros just fine without any add on’s Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html Do most of you who post pics of flies use digital cameras?  If so, do they have built-in macros or did you have to do something else to get close-up shots? Mu

Response:

http://www.ezflyfish.com/perstreamfly.html Do most of you who post pics of flies use digital cameras?  If so, do they have built-in macros or did you have to do something else to get close-up shots? Mu

Mu, while I haven’t taken any photos of flies yet, I have taken a ton of pics of small desert flowers.   Some of them will fit on a dime with a lot  room left over.  The decision to use macro is a personal one depending on how you want the subject to look.  I can get the lens to within about 1/4 inch without macro.  I advise a tripod for macro and telephoto.   Camera?  Sony Mavica FD-91.  Macro ability plus a bunch more including interchangable lenses and filters. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyfd91/  Lemme know and I can send some examples. — All fishermen are liars ‘cept you n me, and I’m starting to have doubts about you! www.fishticker.com

Response:

My matched brace of Nikkormats,

        tripper:  what flavor nikkormat do you have?  are you interested in getting shut of one of them? wayno the digital anti-christ

Response:

The mystery has finally been solved – and on the last day of the season.  Anyway  . .

Great report snipped for brevity. Peter, Very interesting info. Some observations from fishing for Lake Trout and Landlocks in a stillwater that mesh with your obsrvations: About thirty five years ago, I spent some time fishing for Lakers and Landlocks in the local reservoir. The hot method at the time was still or drift fishing with large shiners for bait. the predominant forage fish were Smelt and Yellow Perch. I had a number of hits, but very few hookups the first few times out, and often, when I got a hit, the bait would still be on the hook, dazed but alive. I mentioned this to a local guy who had been catching a lot of fish, and he told me it was very important not to set the hook at the strike, but to wait until the fish began to run with the bait. He said that Lakers and Landlocks often made a pass  and struck a baitfish, and then turned and picked it up. Once I started following his advice I began taking Lakers in the four to six pound range, and Landlocks in the two to four pound range regularly. Seems to be quite similar to your experience with the Browns. Funny thing is that I have also caught Lakers and Landlocks using streamers in the river that drains the reservoir, (they escape over the spillway in high water), and they don’t exhibit the same behavior there. They just grab the streamer and turn. Go figure.{:-) George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

The mystery has finally been solved – and on the last day of the season.  Anyway  . . Last week I post up some stuff about streamer fishing for browns on the Grand and having something like 50 hits and only landing about half-a-dozen.  I had been using a green ghost which is a bit perch-like and perch have been getting washed through the dam into the river during high water periods.  So I tied up two perch flies, one based on a 1/0 Rangley hook (I posted the recipe here and on ROFFT and the image on ABPF), the other on a 4X #6 Diiachi.  The 1/0 used float foam to give it some buoyancy while the other had a small strip of lead added. To try and bring some order to the process, I decided to track all happenings over one hour starting at 2:30 pm.  I had decided to use the #6 for half an hour and then the 1/0 but events overtook that plan. At the access point, a small island divides the channel creating a smallish pool and seam on the south side and a chute emptying into a larger, slower pool on the north side.  Everyone tromps through the southside pool so I never expect much there; one fish at best.  Right at the water’s edge, I begin fishing the #6, casting directly across current and stripping back in a "U".  Within ten minutes I have six hits and three landed – but here’s where the interesting shit happens. One fish has taken the #6 perch directly from the rear and hooked up mid lower jaw.  The other two were foul hooked in the face above the upper jaw.  The direction of the hookup indicates that they turned on the fly and hit it broadside while facing downstream.  They were hooked up on the far side of their face, indicating that they had aimed for the head of the fly.  It all made sense.  Perch are a spiny rayed fish so trout must have ingrained behaviour to aim for the head so that they can swallow head first and smooth down the dorsal spines. This explains why I had so many misses and lost fish last week. Here’s all the poop: Recorded results for one hour. Presentation was directly across stream with a "U" retrieve and a 3" to 4" strip.  (a slower presentation than last week – 12" strip) Total casts – 100 to 120 Total hits – 21 Total hooked – 12 Total landed – 9 Total lost -3 Total foul hooked – 5 (4 in the face and 1 behind the head) Average size of fish – 9" Results by fly:         # 6  Perch – 6 hits, 3 hooked, 3 landed, 2 foul hooked         1/0 Perch – 5 hits, 0 hooked, 0 landed, 0 foul hooked         #6 g. ghost – 10 hits, 9 hooked, 6 landed, 3 foul hooked In deeper, faster water, 2 browns took the fly broadside while facing downstream and one took from the rear.  In shallower, slower water 5 of the 6 browns landed took the fly broadside facing upstream (the 6th faced down.)   After I brought my third fish to hand, I dropped it and grabbed the tippet.  The knot parted and away swam my only #6 perch.  I tied on the 1/0 and tried my luck in the slower northside pool but 5 hits only.  Crossing back to the south side of the island, I began working the tailout down about 200 yards to the end of Cedar Run with what was left of my Green Ghost.  After the end of the hour, I picked up one more small one and then hooked and landed a nice 15" brown. Unfortunately, it was also fouled; this time under the jaw.  After the 15" fish, I changed presentation to a classsic quartering downstream approach and did not get a single hit.   After changing back, I landed another small one.  After a meal break, I picked up one 16" brown on a joe’s smelt.  Once I got back on the water I tried a black nosed dace (one of Charlie’s) and a joe’s smelt to see if the browns would hit them differently.  These being representations of soft rayed fish and having obvious strike zones with their red tails, I was curious if they performed better,  Total was 6 hits, 4 hookups, 1 landed (the 16" one.)  Not really enough action to draw any conclusions. Results on first misses: – Mindful of Mike’s advice, I tried to remember to drop in some slack after a miss.  I had no results on the 1/0 despite one solid hit from a larger fish.  On the green ghost, I had one persistant small guy whack it three times in succession without a hookup and missed another small one on the second hit.  The 16" was classic.  He hit and missed, I dropped the smelt.  he did nothing, then I made one strip and he nailed it directly from the rear.  I hooked him up mid lower jaw. There’s no doubt in my mind that these browns were headhunting the perch flies.  From now on, I’ll be tying my perch flies on short shanked, heavy wire hooks (like a Mustad 3906B) or on sedge hooks that have a small, straight shank.  Too bad I won’t get to try them on the browns to the end of April 2001.  I’ll tie some up tomorrow afternoon and post a binary on ABPF. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

addendum: Some conclusion now that I’ve had some more time to digest the results and read other peoples’ comments. The method of attack for a brown is variable and they choose their method based on prey species and relative size (them vs. the prey.) and other variables like temperature, water clarity, etc. Some conculsions: When I fish my mini streamers, I have a 40% to 50% hookup rate of which I probably land 4 out of 5.  Foul hookups are very rare and the majority of hookups are mid lower jaw with a few mid upper jaw. Corner of jaw hookups are rare.  This indicates that the browns are tail chasing the streamer and taking it on the first hit.  The missed strikes can be attributed to short takes on the fast moving, tiny streamer. A few weeks back, I foul hooked another 15" brown under the jaw when using a #4 streamer.  The pattern seems to be – small fish take from below, probably looking for a gill shot, whil the larger fish seem to take from slightly above, probably turning into the prey at the head. Not all fish are looking for a disabling shot, in the Attack-Maime-Return mode as some seem to have hookups that appear to come from an attempt to seize the prey.  If they are in the mood to strike and drop, then it’s important to have a spongy, neutral buoyant fly with a small hook to avoid jaw to steel contact.  The Sedge Hook Perch should fit this bill.  The white calftail belly and red gill slash will form a target for the smaller fish. The large head and eyes work for the larger ones.  Since the sedge hook is small and light, and the bulk of the fly is made up of semi-buoyant hair, it should react well when tension is released after a strike.   Liberal use of flex cement over the front of the fly will also aid buoyancy and provide a spongy feel to the attacking fish.  Once released, the fly should drift more naturally than a weighted or big hook fly.  As most of the profile of the fly is simply hair, then it should also move more naturally than a stiff, long shanked fly. Since my season is now closed, maybe somebody else could give this fly a shot. (off to buy some vino for SWMBO and some olive calftail so I can complete the prototype.) Peter Peter

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What a great discussion….and some people wonder why we come here! This whole streamer thing has been puzzling me for years. Getting hits versus hookups,etc. There have been some great observations in this discussion. My feeble brain is spinning. perhaps it would be worthwhile tying up some "reversed" streamers, That is to say, streamers with the heads at the bend of the hook. How would such a streamer be fished such that the drift would look right? Angle of pull from rod would seem to give it a tailward oriented motion. There are some designs that put the hook much closer to the head of the streamer. Gartside does it with his marabou soft hackles, others as well use shorter shank hooks with streamer materials extending far past bend. This could be done, I suppose, as long as the materials don’t foul around the gape of hook. I may be trying a few ideas out as we head into the fall season here in PA and post if any intelligent thought or observation arise. Thanks again for the discussion!                            Tom Littleton

Tom Here’s the perch fly I’m planning for next year.  It can be done in any colours for any bait fish – I bet a baby brown would be perfect for PA. Sedge Hook Perch Hook – Kamasan # 8 Sedge or similar Thread – 3/0 Olive Uni-thread Tinsel – gold Flashaboo Belly – white calftail Throat – red Uni-floss Underwing – chartreuse bucktail Wing – Olive calftail Overwing – three strands of thick peacock herl Eyes – stick-on black on gold Tying instructions: All of the material will be tied on the short, straight section of the sedge hook shank.  Tie on a bed of thread.  Do not worry about building up too much bulk as we want a big head.  Tie in three strands of flashaboo doubled and trimmed to length.  Wrap thread over flashaboo to the end of the shank.  Invert hook and tie in the white calftail as a belly.  I’m using calftail instead of bucktail as it’s bulkier and stiffer, producing the deep perch profile.  Then wrap in the red floss at the rear of the shank over the calftail to a width of about 1/8".  This represents a gill flare on a frightened fish.  Then in turn, wrap in the bucktail close to the eye and the length of the shank, followed by the olive calftail then the herl.  Build up the head with thread the full length of the shank and stick on the eyes. Leave about 1/16" of the red floss showing at the back.  Then coat liberally with head cement at least to 1/8" beyond the head. Later on today when I get finished of the chores, (SWMBO is a slave driver)  I’ll tie up one and post it to ABPF. Peter

Response:

What a great discussion….and some people wonder why we come here! This whole streamer thing has been puzzling me for years. Getting hits versus hookups,etc. There have been some great observations in this discussion. My feeble brain is spinning. perhaps it would be worthwhile tying up some "reversed" streamers, That is to say, streamers with the heads at the bend of the hook.

How would such a streamer be fished such that the drift would look right? Angle of pull from rod would seem to give it a tailward oriented motion. There are some designs that put the hook much closer to the head of the streamer. Gartside does it with his marabou soft hackles, others as well use shorter shank hooks with streamer materials extending far past bend. This could be done, I suppose, as long as the materials don’t foul around the gape of hook. I may be trying a few ideas out as we head into the fall season here in PA and post if any intelligent thought or observation arise. Thanks again for the discussion!                             Tom Littleton

Response:

Great report. Thanks for the info.  Seems it could be a combination of things. Trout taking spiny rayed fish head first, and the "attack maim and wait, and then hit again" behaviour we already discussed. Bullheads are also "spiny rayed", and I already explained the behaviour of trout, in my experience,  in this case.   I assume that my original idea was correct, and the trout attack the fish to damage it, and then come back to take the fish head first,  Seems very reasonable. Just a daft idea, but perhaps it would be worthwhile tying up some "reversed" streamers, That is to say, streamers with the heads at the bend of the hook. This practice is common with lightweight pirks, they are fished "the wrong way round", the fish take on the drop, as the pirk is apparently diving head first for the bottom. I have no idea how this might sensibly be realised, but I will have a think about it. My running water season is finished for this year, so I will not have a chance to try any of this for a while, But very interesting, and food for thought. TL MC — "If you have tried everything you know, and nothing works, then perhaps it is time to accept that you don

Question:

Padishar,    The term lure was used because it has a broader in meaning.  I stopped trying to determine the definition of "fly" long ago.  If you would care to give it a try go ahead. All I can say is all flies are lures, but not all lures are flies. Ernie "Padishar Creel" wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I assume by the "lure" comment that this is not a true fly because of the glass beads Padishar Creel

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Ernie, I assume by the "lure" comment that this is not a true fly because of the glass beads?  If I tied the same thing with mylar piping, or wide floss, tensile chenille, or perhaps Ice yard would that be classed as a fly?  The reason I ask, is that one of the streams I use this pattern on is strictly a "fly fishing only stream".  That last thing I want to do is use a "lure"….

I don’t know why Ernie wrote "lure", but I can’t see why glass beads would disqualify this as a "true" fly. Glass beads are often used in flies, or strung onto the tippet in front of the fly. Aren’t all flies lures? The chamois nymph I’ve been touting for whitefish is something else. I’d call it "bait". — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

rw The definition in the dictionary of fly and fly fishing follows:  I don’t see any thing about glass beads. (I"m getting crotchety in my old age) Ernie fly 2 ( fl

Question:

Thanks everyone! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric Eric, Smith Coleman is an outstanding fly fishing instructor and works from his shop in Outdoor Adventures on Rt. 3 in Fredericksburg/Spotsylvania Virginia.  Excellent one-on-one lesson packages.  For a bit more advance lessons try Harry Murray in Edinburg Virginia over in the Valley. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

– Eric Schurr                     Coord. for Public Relations Dept. of Electrical and Computer Engineering University of Maryland         2409 A.V. Williams Bldg. College Park, Maryland 20742 Phone: (301)405-3516 Fax: (301)314-9281

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Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric

Response:

Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric

Eric, Smith Coleman is an outstanding fly fishing instructor and works from his shop in Outdoor Adventures on Rt. 3 in Fredericksburg/Spotsylvania Virginia.  Excellent one-on-one lesson packages.  For a bit more advance lessons try Harry Murray in Edinburg Virginia over in the Valley. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I took a very good class a few years ago from TROUT AND ABOUT. They have different length classes, and also trips if you like. http://www.troutandabout.com/ — Jeff Cook http://www.cookstudios.com Washington DC area

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Question:

    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

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trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches". Schuhfly

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Also 35F to 40F water as on the San Juan. Devon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches". Schuhfly

Response:

    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied

Fish prefer different water temperatures, when they are likely to feed most actively, e.g. approx. 60 Fahr. for stream trout, 70 for smallmouth bass, etc.  Recommended temperatures are in several books, e.g. McClane’s Fishing Encyclopedia.  Water temp. is a guide how to fish, e.g. wet or dry, not whether to fish or not.  If you can present a fly really close to a fish without scaring him, he is likely to take it whatever the temperature. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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The "rule" I follow is to ensure that the air and water temp. do not vary by more than 10 c. This is for Atlantic Salmon fishing in the Maritimes. I cannot tell you if there is any documentation on this, however, the "good old boys" on the River will say this.                                           Robert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

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   Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

Hi All, Different species have different comfort ranges. I think that the activity can vary from stream to stream depending the norm. I have noticed that trout feed better between 55 and 65 degrees. If the water is a little too cold, I always fish more in the mid-day when the water is warming. If the water is too warm, I fish very early and late in the day when the water is cooler. Most fisheries have a two to six week window in the spring/early summer when the water is coming down and warming with all the larger bugs hatching. They can have a fall season too, when the water is cooling and the fish are feeding up for winter. Here in Northern California on a normal snow pack/runoff year, June and October are our top months for trout at a medium elevation (2,000 to 6,000′). Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches".

…and the species.  Lake trout like it colder than Brown trout, for example. Also I find trout seem to tolerate excesses of cold more than heat. — -Wayne Trzyna                           Fight spam! Join CAUCE (Coalition  http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~trzyna    See http://www.cauce.org/

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Question:

[deleted] I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful. Something I do not know yet is what the ‘practical’ shock-limit is on these SLR’s.  I mean, jostling them about…sticking them here and there…is that OK ? — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Tim, I would recommend putting a skylight filter on your lens. If you bump the front of your lens or scratch it, you have ruined a cheap filter and not an expensive lens. I’ve prevented expensive damage to two or three lenses this way. Just put it on and leave it. Your exposure won’t be noticably affected. Jim

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Hi Moe,

I only bring my camera when I’m hiking and fishing into a pretty, isolated area so it just goes into my daypack with everything else.  The pack stays on the bank when I go into the water.  It works out fine, and I haven’t lost the pack yet.  I don’t wear a vest, though, so I’m not sure how that would work. Dave

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Actually may soften the image and shadows in a pleasing way. Try it out!

Q: Do photographers still use Vaseline for the same effect? A: Not when they’re using a condom.  The petroleum weakens them, and they break. Be careful out there. Dave

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly   Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a   ruggedized waterproof camera ? NO and YES. I bought a Pentax IQ zoom waterproof camera (~$250-270) for this purpose after I fell into a stream in New Zealand with my friend’s camera (ruining it and leaving me without a small camera).  I rarely carry my SLR/lenses because of weight and fear that I will ruin a zillion dollars with one false step.  This particular waterproof camera is pretty good – it is not a simple point and shoot.  I wear it around my neck all the time when fishing, and I take more pictures now. cheers,       -tgades I’ve got the same camera – a great piece of work. To bad there’s no built-in lens cap for it, but it’s 99.9999% on the way to being the perfect camera for fishing. Nice macro feature for close-ups. Pentax has a new model (IQ 110?) for more money – with a very wide angle lens for panorama shots, but this one gives up on the water- resistance feature, I think. I also carry my camera in a plastic zip-lock baggie (my wallet’s got a baggie too) just to be sure it’ll survive my next unplanned wetdown. If I’m with someone else, they learn how to shoot a picture with it in about 10 seconds.

I tried the inexpensive point and shoot.  My photos were fine, but my ex-girlfriend couldn’t take a picture of me, with my fish, without cutting my head off.  I’ve easily got 20 pictures of me with fish that aren’t up to quality for the album. At least she had other attributes… I seem to recall Outer Banks used to sell a camera bag, made for several different makes.  Essentially a ziplock attached to a lens filter. Anyone ever use one?  Probably not good for underwater shots, but I bet it’d hold up through one of my early morning baths. — Mark N. Cahill For E-mail remove the _Remove_This from the reply to address.   On a side note, my grandfather aways told me you couldn’t catch fish until you got water in you waders.  I’ve ammended that to you can’t catch trophy fish until you’ve ruined the camera.  His maxim still holds true though.

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(But, being prone to being prone…

Priceless ! — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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[deleted] I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful.

Something I do not know yet is what the ‘practical’ shock-limit is on these SLR’s.  I mean, jostling them about…sticking them here and there…is that OK ?   — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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DENNIS VICK responds: Well I hate to mention this in a family area, but condoms work just

great for protecting your SLR from the environment(non-ribbed type!) and you can still use the buttons, etc. And if you use the colored ones, It creates Great visual filter effects, Right?  Now, if they only made polorized ones for under water shots..;)

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[deleted] I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful. Something I do not know yet is what the ‘practical’ shock-limit is on these SLR’s.  I mean, jostling them about…sticking them here and there…is that OK ? — TimW Halfordian Golfer

The better models in almost all camera makers lines are very shock resistant. Nikon F series, Pentax K series, Olympus OM, Cannon F series. If you keep your gear in a well padded and designed bag it will take a drop from body height without any problem. Zoom lenses can be the exception I have had them break when I rolled a bag of gear down a stairs. They can’t handle a blow head on. If you are really rough or travel a log get a hard case. I have run over my hard case with my truck without damage…….woops. If you do dunk a high quality slr equipment in a river get it to a camera repair person as soon as possible. If you dunk it good in saltwater look for a new camera. In using your camera. Remove from well padded case put strap over neck then make your pictures, change your film etc. Never set your gear on the trunk of your car. If you need a clean surface set your gear on the driver’s side hood. If you are hiking around rocks and need quick access to your camera keep it around your neck with the lens facing your body. This is photojournalist style. If you have been working in a dusty area use canned air to remove dust. I don’t care where you put your lens cap but make a habbit of putting it in the same place every time. All the Best, Michael Smith

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi. but that is not why I post… How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for ….etc…. — TimW Halfordian Golfer      Tim – I carry a small 35mm auto-everything camera with me, and I protect it by putting it in a sturdy ziplock bag. Just before you close the last little corner of the ziplock, wrap your lips around it tightly and suck out the air in the bag; then quickly close the seal. This sort of molds to bag to the camera – you can even take a decent shot with the bag still on the camera in desperate circumstances. It has worked for me for many, many years.     In rereading this I see I have left myself wide open to your brand of humor, Tim. Try to restrain yourself, I am a respectable old lady of 66 [but still fishing!].      

Thank goodness you realize it as the harmless humor that it is …life is too short not to laugh…laugh loud and laugh often… Thanks very much for the tip and I will not take advantage of the obvious cheap shot that you left me and my devils workshop…   — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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MS How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a MS component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for MS the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or MS the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. MS Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a MS ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays MS home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride MS next time. Well I hate to mention this in a family area, but condoms work just great for protecting your SLR from the environment(non-ribbed type!) and you can still use the buttons, etc.

You either have a really small camera or a really big asdfj NO CARRIER                                                 John Fereira

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DD Actually may soften the DD image and shadows in a pleasing way. Try it out! DD DD Q: Do photographers still use Vaseline for the same effect? DD DD A: Not when they’re using a condom.  The petroleum weakens them, and they DD break. Be careful out there. Oh man, I knew I forgot something important in the original post, and now I remember it… Be certain to buy the UNLUBRICATED version of the condom for use with your cameras! Now for the photography question. YES, wedding photographers still do this on occasion, but usually on a screw on filter instead of the actual lense, at least after their first try. I have also made many different special effects in the past by fooling with things on the filter. You can create a split-image rangefinder of sorts by a solid black stripe right down the middle of your filter for instance. Doesn’t show on the final image at all. Filters may be purchased with scored perpendicular lines on the called "starfire" filters which create incredble star highlights from candles, sunlight reflections off the water, etc. Dennis Vick … nfx v2.6 [C0000]                                                        

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[deleted] I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful. Something I do not know yet is what the ‘practical’ shock-limit is on these SLR’s.  I mean, jostling them about…sticking them here and there…is that OK ?

It probably depends on the model.  My Canon has been on every backpacking trip I’ve been on in the past couple years and accompanies me on most fishing trips.  So far, I haven’t managed to even put a scratch on it.  If it is raining, I can take it out, take a picture, whipe the rain off, and put it back in the case with no harm done.  One of these times, I’m sure I’ll take a nasty tumble and kill it, but so far so good.   Later,      - Ken — Ken Janik Oregon State University Dept of Electrical and Computer Engineering

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – MS How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a MS component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for MS the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or MS the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. MS Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a MS ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays MS home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride MS next time. Well I hate to mention this in a family area, but condoms work just great for protecting your SLR from the environment(non-ribbed type!) and you can still use the buttons, etc. Good Lord, I hate to see the reponse from this one…but I AM SERIOUS. BTW, be sure to buy a good name brand. Leaks in these things can be pretty devastating. I swear, I am serious, Try it…….really! These things will blow up to 6′ diameter. No problem with a little camera. Stretch the material over the lense part so its close to clear. Why am I explaining this to you anyway, didn’t your parents tell you anything! Teachers, clergy, planned parenthood? Oh heck, just have fun. It works!

Interesting… You shoot through the stretched latex ???? I can really see explaining the condoms to my wife as I head out the door for a weeks fishing in Idaho… "Really honey, they are, uh, for my, uh, camera…!!!" This is a family area ?   Scary, as you can be in alt.things.even.your.mama.never.told.you in about 3 mouse clicks… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Moe, I have a Nikon FG and a Nikon F70, both of which cause me to cring a little when I bring them close to the water. I enjoy the artistic element of using an SLR too much to justify getting a waterproof auto camera. I have thus run into your problem. So far I have handled it by only taking the camera out of the car for dedicated photo shoots. I try to avoid wading with the camera if possible. When I’m done I get the rod out again and enjoy the fishing.  Last year my sis’ accompanied me on a trip and I got her to take some photos of me from the bank while I was wading. I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful. Paul

I’ll second the sticking with the SLR.  I have a Canon Elan.  I went to G.I. Joe’s and got a small (6"x7"x2") canvas bag.  It’s not waterproof, but it keeps the rain out.  It’ll hold the body and one lens, detached of course.  I wrap them both in ziplock freezer bags and throw those little water absorption pads that come with most electronic equipment in with them (you know, the ones that advise not eating them).  Most electonic stores will give them away from the packaging of their floor models. I attach it to my vest or backpack with a carbeaner(SP?), but if the wading looks too risky I’ll leave it on the bank of the river.  Yes, I tend to fish in VERY isolated areas, do not try this in more crowded areas. My $0.02,      - Ken — Ken Janik Oregon State University Dept of Electrical and Computer Engineering

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Hi. but that is not why I post… How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for ….etc…. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

     Tim – I carry a small 35mm auto-everything camera with me, and I protect it by putting it in a sturdy ziplock bag. Just before you close the last little corner of the ziplock, wrap your lips around it tightly and suck out the air in the bag; then quickly close the seal. This sort of molds to bag to the camera – you can even take a decent shot with the bag still on the camera in desperate circumstances. It has worked for me for many, many years.     In rereading this I see I have left myself wide open to your brand of humor, Tim. Try to restrain yourself, I am a respectable old lady of 66 [but still fishing!].       Louise Scharrenberg

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BD Well I hate to mention this in a family area, but condoms work just great BD protecting your SLR from the environment(non-ribbed type!) and you can sti BD use the buttons, etc. BD BD You either have a really small camera or a really big No big thing Roger.  Without getting too detailed, I have actually seen these things blown up to 5′ diameters and paper macheyed(sp?) in the old "phyche shops" of the 60’s. Pretty scary under black lights with flourescent posters and incense burning… Dennis Vick … nfx v2.6 [C0000]                                                        

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MS Interesting… MS MS You shoot through the stretched latex ???? Yep! You stretch it over the lense until it becomes pretty clear. Don’t have the technical reason for you, but cameras tend to ignore things that are very close to the lense. I have shot right thorough chain link fences for instance with no noticeable affect provided I was close enough. Actually may soften the image and shadows in a pleasing way. Try it out! MS I can really see explaining the condoms to my wife as I head out the MS door for a weeks fishing in Idaho… MS MS "Really honey, they are, uh, for my, uh, camera…!!!" Reminds of a story where the hunter bitches out his wife for not packing his socks after a three week hunting trip.. "But I did pack your socks honey!" "Where the he** did you pack them then?" "In the case with your rifle!" Dennis Vick … nfx v2.6 [C0000]                                                        

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Hi. I recently acquired my first 35mmSLR, and I really, really enjoy learning about and using it.  It is my sincere hope that I can capture some of the joys of flyfishing on film as it satisfies me.  I also want to try and document some of what I feel is very wrong in our sport, particularly overcrowding on the river and wounded or sickly fish that should be killed… but that is not why I post… How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. As it turns out, I had the opportunity to get some great shots of my dear friend flyfishing, but as it also turned out, I did a little uninentional snorkelling on saturday AM too…I would have gotten the camera wet, at the very least. Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride next time. Tia, — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a    ruggedized waterproof camera ?   NO and YES. I bought a Pentax IQ zoom waterproof camera (~$250-270) for this purpose after I fell into a stream in New Zealand with my friend’s camera (ruining it and leaving me without a small camera).  I rarely carry my SLR/lenses because of weight and fear that I will ruin a zillion dollars with one false step.  This particular waterproof camera is pretty good – it is not a simple point and shoot.  I wear it around my neck all the time when fishing, and I take more pictures now. cheers,         -tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi. I recently acquired my first 35mmSLR, and I really, really enjoy learning about and using it……. How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. As it turns out, I had the opportunity to get some great shots of my dear friend flyfishing, but as it also turned out, I did a little uninentional snorkelling on saturday AM too…I would have gotten the camera wet, at the very least. Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride next time.

Over the last twenty-five years I’ve had different cameras, SLR’s, range finders and one fixed lens. Sailing the ocean, mountaineering in unforgiving places, and stream side require different kind of cammera, NOT. Your camera, like your fly rod, is just a tool with limitations. What I discovered is, to take really wonderful shots use a SLR and buy every lens and gadget you find to help you at your task. Forget about fishing you won’t have time. You’ll be checking your light meter, checking back lighting, comparing gray scale zones, experimenting with how far you can push the ASA. And coming full circle when you move to a new location. Man that sounds like a lot of work and it really is. You could empty out you fishing vest and fill it full of camera stuff. Bingo, you are an official professional photographer or at least look like one. But for my money I went for the range finder type. One lens and one filter and that’s it. No fuss, good pic’s, with limitations. I just wanted to record what I saw, where I’d been, and what I’d experience. Just didn’t want to build a monument around it. I recommend these three range finder cameras, Reolli 35S (older german made w/big lens), Nikon Action Touch (really water proof to 12 feet), and an old Cannon Cannonete which is my current clicker. If my camera fell into bad grace I would not feel to badly because I mostly find used cameras that others have traded in to buy SLR’s. There’s a good steady supply, you just have to look for the deals. They do make waterproof bags that will keep your cameras dry, mostly used by white water rafters. But I hate cumbersome bags and am willing to take the chance on dousing the camera. Maybe if your fascination of fishing pictures really develops you could start taking pictures underwater of trout behavior and taking the fly. Yes, like flyfishing, it’s just another disease. When you get the darkroom going I could use some flytying gear, hint, hint, hint, since you will be up to your elbows in developer and fixer. — Doug Knight                           metalfab<atefaxinc.com Junk e-mail, solicitation, sales, products and services gladly accepted at $500.00 per mailing and billed directly to your ISP.

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MS How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a MS component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for MS the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or MS the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. MS Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a MS ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays MS home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride MS next time. Well I hate to mention this in a family area, but condoms work just great for protecting your SLR from the environment(non-ribbed type!) and you can still use the buttons, etc. Good Lord, I hate to see the reponse from this one…but I AM SERIOUS. BTW, be sure to buy a good name brand. Leaks in these things can be pretty devastating. I swear, I am serious, Try it…….really! These things will blow up to 6′ diameter. No problem with a little camera. Stretch the material over the lense part so its close to clear. Why am I explaining this to you anyway, didn’t your parents tell you anything! Teachers, clergy, planned parenthood? Oh heck, just have fun. It works! Dennis Vick … nfx v2.6 [C0000]                                                        

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly   Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a   ruggedized waterproof camera ?   NO and YES. I bought a Pentax IQ zoom waterproof camera (~$250-270) for this purpose after I fell into a stream in New Zealand with my friend’s camera (ruining it and leaving me without a small camera).  I rarely carry my SLR/lenses because of weight and fear that I will ruin a zillion dollars with one false step.  This particular waterproof camera is pretty good – it is not a simple point and shoot.  I wear it around my neck all the time when fishing, and I take more pictures now. cheers,    -tgades

I’ve got the same camera – a great piece of work. To bad there’s no built-in lens cap for it, but it’s 99.9999% on the way to being the perfect camera for fishing. Nice macro feature for close-ups. Pentax has a new model (IQ 110?) for more money – with a very wide angle lens for panorama shots, but this one gives up on the water- resistance feature, I think. I also carry my camera in a plastic zip-lock baggie (my wallet’s got a baggie too) just to be sure it’ll survive my next unplanned wetdown. If I’m with someone else, they learn how to shoot a picture with it in about 10 seconds. Don B. Wishful collector of Gillums and Dickersons – owner of Montague, H-I and Heddons.

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I, too, rarely carry my SLR when fishing. And I often regret it when I get back prints from my point and shoot that are incorrectly exposed. (But, being prone to being prone, it’s the only way to go for me). Does anyone have any ideas for an inexpensive (<$150) auto-focus that allows for manual exposure setting? John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

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there a couple of nice "photo backpacks" on the market. the one i got has a space for water or snacks or whatever. although it is not 100% waterproof – it will keep my expensive gear dry during brief recreational swims. i have decided that the inconvenience of the extra weight on my back is outweighed by the potential for great photos. p.s.   olympus makes a very small camera (will fit in almost any vest pocket) that is weatherproof. i believe they cost around $200.   greg

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Hi Moe, I have a Nikon FG and a Nikon F70, both of which cause me to cring a little when I bring them close to the water. I enjoy the artistic element of using an SLR too much to justify getting a waterproof auto camera. I have thus run into your problem. So far I have handled it by only taking the camera out of the car for dedicated photo shoots. I try to avoid wading with the camera if possible. When I’m done I get the rod out again and enjoy the fishing.  Last year my sis’ accompanied me on a trip and I got her to take some photos of me from the bank while I was wading. I say stick with the SLR and be extra careful. Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi. How do you deal with an expensive electronic ridden camera as a component of your flyfishing equipment ?.  As I was preparing for the day on the river on Saturday, my vest could carry water or the camera, but not both, and I did not want another bag. Is this insolvable ?  Is the only answer a compromise towards a ruggedized waterproof camera ?  Perhaps the fishing stuff stays home and only the photography equipment makes the truck ride next time. Tia, — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Question:

A FF partner is visiting Switzerland for several weeks in Aug/Sep and he is wondering what FF opportunities and requirements exist for said same. Please E me or post. "The true angler is always content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo

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  A FF partner is visiting Switzerland for several weeks in Aug/Sep and he is   wondering what FF opportunities and requirements exist for said same. Please   E me or post.   "The true angler is always content to fish alone"   Brian Di Carlo If he’s going to the Geneva area I think the best bet is to go to the nearby French rivers (known to be the best in France) the ‘loue’, ‘doubs’, ‘ain’ and ‘bienne’  and catch trout and grayling. These are all within 2-3 hours drive from Geneva. Closer still is the Rhone river leaving lake Geneva in the middle of town.  It is not as famous for its fly fishing though. I don’t know the german part of Switzerland, but found a URL on the web. http://www.access.ch/whoiswho//zulauf8.html   If he’s going to the Geneva area, drop me an email and I’ll provide some addresses and phone numbers. Cheers,         Peter. —  Peter Sollander, CERN ST/MC/TCR  Tel: (+41) 22.767.8081          Fax: (+41) 22.767.8910        

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Question:

discussing a trip to this area for some Atlantic Salmon fishing. We are going to fly into Portland Maine. Any info on best time, lodges, guides, patterns and equipment would be helpful.

1.  You should probably book with a fishing lodge in Labrador.  (You may be legally obliged to, because of lack of roads, rescue teams etc.)  Call the Newfoundland provincial tourist agency in St. John’s. 1B. There are also salmon lodges in Quebec and New Brunswick. 2.  Portland Maine seems the wrong place to start, i.e. has no road links to Labrador and may have no air links either.  You should probably start in either Montreal or St. John’s (on the island of Newfoundland;  Labrador is on the Canadian mainland) the two likely sources of air taxi links to camps in Labrador. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Starting with the correct spelling:-) Anyway, my Dad and I were discussing a trip to this area for some Atlantic Salmon fishing. We are going to fly into Portland Maine. Any info on best time, lodges, guides, patterns and equipment would be helpful. thanx in advance, Tom.

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Question:

 Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is  a fantastic lodge with access to over 20 lakes and streams from  the main lodge on Nimpo Lake.  They also have several wilderness  outpost locations.  We chose the wilderness outpost location for  our honeymoon.  Everything was perfect.  The rainbows averaged  1-3 pounds and were anxious to devour several well-known flies.  We had the entire lake to ourselves for 4 days.  There were no  trails or roads into this place.  The Stewart’s have erected a  wonderful cabin that is more than comfortable.  We enjoyed  hiking, canoeing, backpacking, and lots of fishing.  I’d like to  go back and catch the huge rainbows in the river locations.  Stewart’s lodge is located near Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.  This  is a beautiful park with plenty of great hiking opportunities.  It reminded me of Glacier Park with one exception…no people.  You virtually have most areas to yourself.  Stewart’s Lodge and Camps is a great place for fisherman and  non-fisherman alike.  I know that we will go back soon.  I’ll be  happy to answer any questions about our experience.  You can also  find out more information at their WWW site:  http://www.on-the-fly.com  Sincerely,    David Neils            3919 Benthaven Drive  Fort Collins, Colorado 80526

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:  Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness :  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were :  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is stuff deleted… You can also call Rhonda or Duncan for a full color brochure/newsletter. This is well worth reading if you are planning a fly fishing adventure to Canada. Call 1-800-ON-THE-FLY Tell them I sent you. David Neils

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Question:

I need advise on where to look for the things I might need.  I think it would be very satisfying to catch fish with a rod I built myself. What book or videos do you recommend?  Is it cheaper to build your own or buy a new rod? Thanks, Koop

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(Whitehors) writes: I need advise on where to look for the things I might need.  I think it would be very satisfying to catch fish with a rod I built myself. What book or videos do you recommend?  Is it cheaper to build your own or buy a new rod? Thanks, Koop

Koop- I would encourage you to give it a try.  Start with either of the books by Skip Morris or A. Garcia (assuming you are talking graphite and not cane) which should be available at your local flyshop.  I would also suggest you check withyour local shop and/or flyfishing club to see if anyone is offering classes.  The same sources might provide some items that you can borrow, such as a turning motor and rod vice. Aside from one time purchases such as books, motor (which is not essential), and rod vice (which can be improvised), the cost of a rod build yourself should be about 2/3 the cost of a comparable rod on the same blank at a flyshop, including sock and tube. I suggest avoiding the kits.  Part of the fun and value of building your own rod is selecting the components that match exactly what you want.  You can’t do that with a kit.  Some advice from a shop or club will help here too. When you have gathered the components (or before you buy if you are unsure whether you really want to do this), I suggest getting some winding thread, epoxy coating material (flex-coat), and an old piece of blank or dowel and do some practicing.  Wrapping well takes practice,and it is better not to start on your blank with your first try. Finally, plan on building more than one rod!  If you find you like rodbuilding, you will definately not be satisfied with your first effort. Good Luck, Lyman Hughes Ennis, MT Dallas, TX

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