Question:

minutes explaining my business in Canada (work trip to my company’s YWG facility; the word "work" must have triggered the big red alarm).

Yep. That is a big no-no, especially when a canadian self employed goes to the USA. "Going to a meeting" is a much more acceptable reason for travel.

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Canada) through Chicago.  Air Canada services us from all other major cities in Canada, Except the second largest one… but that’s AC’s fault, not yours. Air Canada does link Winterpeg with Vancouver with at least one non-stop per day.

But to come back to the question, AC lists two connections/day SFO-YWG. Morning one thru YVR indeed, and afternoon one thru YYC.  Thru YYC is shorter; and there are four nonstop flights to YWG.

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fishing, one of the greatest areas in the world for lake fishing is about a two hour drive east of Winnipeg, just over the border into Ontario. No ! Don’t risk your life on highway 17. Stay in Manitoba. just before the ontario border where the trans canada highway narrows into a country road, there is a nice park to the right. I think it it is on the shores of lake of the woods.

I don’t think they will be riding bicycles.   Besides, 30 miles on a two lane highway is no impediment to people who really like fishing.

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Yes, its bloody cold outside. You get used to it.  It’s nice in the summer though, for those 4 months. 4 months ?  I guess if you define winter as temperatures below -20, spring and automn as temperatures below 0, then summer could be 4 months long …. In Montreal, true summer is about 4 weeks (when you can go outside in short sleeves and not have to worry about being cold during the day).

Yes, I remember my one and only (so far) trip to Canada which was spent entirely in Qu

Question:

Conchs – native Key Westers – used to swear there was nothing better than lime juice. Tried it once but it made me feel like a margarita, so I didn’t have it on long enough to say if it really worked. Uhhh, …so where was the salt?

Often comes right out of your skin when the skeeter weather is right, just add lime juice…

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Conchs – native Key Westers – used to swear there was nothing better than lime juice. Tried it once but it made me feel like a margarita, so I didn’t have it on long enough to say if it really worked.

Uhhh, …so where was the salt?

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Naahhh, wasn’t us….  Those Tenderfoot scouts never could catch anything sitting out in the woods (except for a few mosquitos)….. When I was both in the Boy Scouts and later while a scout leader we used to go on Snipe hunts at most every campout. So you’re the one who drove these cute, cuddlies to the brink of extinction. Shame on you and your Boy Scout Troop. Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

– On my retirement adventure from the rolling hills of the Southern Tier in New York State…..    Traveling in my 1999 Dodge 2500 6-spd diesel, 1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel

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When I was both in the Boy Scouts and later while a scout leader we used to go on Snipe hunts at most every campout.

So you’re the one who drove these cute, cuddlies to the brink of extinction. Shame on you and your Boy Scout Troop. Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

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I believe they are planning on using student volunteers to conduct an official Snipe Hunt and Count over spring break,

That’s another Guvmint project doomed to failure. While students on  Spring break are prolific hunters they will NOT be looking for snipe. You can bet on that. Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

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Yes. Noseeums are bad news, and unlike mosquitos, nothing less than 50% DEET will deter them for long – at least not in my case. I break out the 95% DEET when I find myself in noseeum country.

NoSeeUms do seem to be stymied by thicker oils on the skin, like Skin So Soft (which I have observed to be useless against skeeters).  One article I read recommended using cooking oil; it would prevent the NoSeeUms from biting thru it and entangle the skeeters — problem is, you look like a walking fly strip!

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Like a lot of other Gummint projects, the intro of the Snipe did not go as planned.  There are still plenty of skeeters and NoSeeUms in evidence and no signs of the Snipe.  I believe they are planning on using student volunteers to conduct an official Snipe Hunt and Count over spring break, but that might turn out to be an unsubstantiated rumor.  Some suspect that the Snipe may have fallen victim to the poachers at the Chokoloskee end of the ENP now that the square grouper fishing has been taken over by the commercial organizations and these folks still have to feed their families. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought since they introduced the Snipe to the Everglades they have been able to control the overwhelming No-seeum population. Correct me if I’m wrong. AL My one and only trip to the Everglades acquainted me with "no-seeums"  - a very tiny black fly that bites.  We stayed at a government campsite somewhere in the Everglades and woke up during the night with my "sunburn" really itching.  Turned on the lights and found those black bugs everywhere. They were so small that screens were no deterrent.  They could just fly right through them.  Fired up the generator, turned on the A/C and it sucked them all into the filters.  Then we could sleep through the night. Dick Lucas

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Correct me if I’m wrong.

Consider yourself corrected. BTW the snipe has been hunted into near extinction and is now on the endagered list. So don’t get caught hunting them at night. Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

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When I was both in the Boy Scouts and later while a scout leader we used to go on Snipe hunts at most every campout.  The Tenderfoot scout on his first campout would get the "honor" of catching the Snipe.  After it was good and dark out, he would be placed out in the woods with a big sack.  We told him that we would beat the brush to drive the Snipes toward him.   Then we went back to camp to have another cup of coffee for the next hour or so.  After that we would sneak up on him and make loud growling sounds as we sneaked up on him.  After that, we brought him back into camp to the great laughter of all the troop. Correct me if I’m wrong. Consider yourself corrected. BTW the snipe has been hunted into near extinction and is now on the endagered list. So don’t get caught hunting them at night. Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

– On my retirement adventure from the rolling hills of the Southern Tier in New York State…..    Traveling in my 1999 Dodge 2500 6-spd diesel, 1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel

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Digger writes: BTW the snipe has been hunted into near extinction and is now on the endagered list. So don’t get caught hunting them at night.

Is it ok then to hunt them during the day?  Tougher I know, but maybe more sporting. Mark – who wonders if pate’ of Snail Darter would be good snipe bait.

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Check with the Rangers about the critters; lots of different foot trails, depending on water levels and there are canoes/kayaks for rent. Bug populations depend on the severity of the previous winter; bring plenty of DEET and some long, light-colored clothing; Navy Blue is the most favorite color for skeeters!  Cold showers at Flamingo; also a coin laundry tucked away in the motel there.  No hookups. If you have the time and have never done it before, take one of the airboat rides from the many places along US41. The places flying a striped flag reminiscent of Germany’s flag are Miccosukee-owned. Also, if you have the time, a trip on the people ferry from Biscayne NP visitor’s center out to Elliott Key would prolly be interesting, as would a glass-bottom boat ride to the reef in John Pennekamp SP. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Were planning on taking a trip to the Everglades National Park between March 12th through March 23rd. We’ve never been down there. We would like to see as much wildlife as possible for picture taking without becoming gator bait. We have reservations for Flamingo Park, and Long Pine Key Campground. Question are: 1. Does anyone have suggestions as to what’s the best place to visit for wildlife photography? 2. Are there better campgrounds then the one’s in the park? 3. How bad are the insects? 4. What can I expect as to access to the trails, crowds, etc? Really appreciate the input.

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Bug populations depend on the severity of the previous winter; bring plenty of DEET and some long,

We happened to be there (Flamingo) after a dry period, no rain for two weeks, and nice breeze. Very enjoyable but the rangers had a slide show which showed a white wall that was completely covered wtith bugs. We lucked out and enjoyed a three day stay. Used the pool at the lodge everyday (GREAT). Hope you luck out as we did. I agree try John pennecamp SP on Key Largo (we found ALL FL SPs to be very nice) Digger, AKA Grumps (old and crusty) All errors; spilling, grimatical, ore tieping intenshunal.

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3. How bad are the insects?

My one and only trip to the Everglades acquainted me with "no-seeums"  - a very tiny black fly that bites.  We stayed at a government campsite somewhere in the Everglades and woke up during the night with my "sunburn" really itching.  Turned on the lights and found those black bugs everywhere. They were so small that screens were no deterrent.  They could just fly right through them.  Fired up the generator, turned on the A/C and it sucked them all into the filters.  Then we could sleep through the night. Dick Lucas

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I thought since they introduced the Snipe to the Everglades they have been able to control the overwhelming No-seeum population. Correct me if I’m wrong. AL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My one and only trip to the Everglades acquainted me with "no-seeums"  - a very tiny black fly that bites.  We stayed at a government campsite somewhere in the Everglades and woke up during the night with my "sunburn" really itching.  Turned on the lights and found those black bugs everywhere. They were so small that screens were no deterrent.  They could just fly right through them.  Fired up the generator, turned on the A/C and it sucked them all into the filters.  Then we could sleep through the night. Dick Lucas

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Were planning on taking a trip to the Everglades National Park between March 12th through March 23rd. We’ve never been down there. We would like to see as much wildlife as possible for picture taking without becoming gator bait. We have reservations for Flamingo Park, and Long Pine Key Campground. Question are: 1. Does anyone have suggestions as to what’s the best place to visit for wildlife photography?

We camped for a week in the Everglades around Christmas time about 15 years ago. I am sure that much has changed, but I was amazed at the photo opportunities along the Anhinga Trail. It’s (or it was) a black-top and board-walk trail that leads along side of, and into, a swampy area. A tremendous variety of birds congregated there. I have pix of birds that I would have had to spend weeks in the "wild" to take. Alligators were abundant and easy to shoot. Sometimes they were only 10 to 15 feet away! By 9:00am there were dozens of photographers lined up along the trail. The primary sound was shutters being released. But, conditions may be different in March. My most memorable pix were taken early in the morning while the Anhingas were still sleeping in the "trees" and they were silhouetted against the light of the early morning sun as it cast long shadows across the swampy water. But the pix that cost me the most was one I have of a group of Roseate Spoonbills that were perched in a tree. Not having insect repellent with me in the truck (I had left if behind in the trailer), I mounted my camera on my tripod, set all of the camera controls while still in the truck. I quickly darted out of the truck and snapped two pix before I was unable to stand the attacking mosquitoes any longer. I have no idea how much blood I donated in the brief time (2 minutes) that I was outside of the truck, but it was sutstantial. 2. Are there better campgrounds then the one’s in the park?

We only stayed in the two campgrounds you mentioned. I remember Flamingo Park as being rather boring: a huge open expanse of trailer pads while Long Pine Key was relaxing with its numerous tall pines. Besides, Long Pine Key is close to the Anhinga Trail, which I visited each day for hours. You can find more information at:  http://www.nps.gov/ever/home.htm Cheers, Harry

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If you’re a tent camper, you get a tent with NoSeeUm netting, but of course that cuts down the ventilation a little.  DEET isn’t effective, but light clothing is, as are sheets for sleeping. I stayed at JPennekamp SP in Dec one year and was infested with NoSeeUms thru the TT window/vent screens.  They lived about three days after I left the area. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 3. How bad are the insects? My one and only trip to the Everglades acquainted me with "no-seeums"  - a very tiny black fly that bites.  We stayed at a government campsite somewhere in the Everglades and woke up during the night with my "sunburn" really itching.  Turned on the lights and found those black bugs everywhere. They were so small that screens were no deterrent.  They could just fly right through them.  Fired up the generator, turned on the A/C and it sucked them all into the filters.  Then we could sleep through the night. Dick Lucas

Response:

Were planning on taking a trip to the Everglades National Park between March 12th through March 23rd. We’ve never been down there. We would like to see as much wildlife as possible for picture taking without becoming gator bait. We have reservations for Flamingo Park, and Long Pine Key Campground. Question are: 1. Does anyone have suggestions as to what’s the best place to visit for wildlife photography? 2. Are there better campgrounds then the one’s in the park? 3. How bad are the insects? 4. What can I expect as to access to the trails, crowds, etc? Really appreciate the input.

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Question:

<Good report snipped What, no whitefish to report about Jeff? Darin

Response:

Jeff C writes:

(snip for brev) – Jeff Miller’s week: up at 5:30 to fish before breakfast.  Sometimes pack a lunch to fish straight through.  At dinner, eat everything he ordered plus half of Dene’s order,

You mean to tell me that scurrilous lawyer from the great North State was also eating Dene’s food?  Helll, when he sat opposite me I had to build a defensive wall consisting of wine bottles, water glasses, etc. to keep my food from ending up in his plate.  Somewhere there is a picture of Jeffy, ala the picture of Dorian Gray, growing fatter and fatter and fatter, while our beloved yet scurrilous friend remains lean and mean. As far as Benee goes —- well, if I didn’t have to take a leak so badly, we’d *still* be in the 2nd current catching big brookies and salmon.  I enjoyed meeting her, Jeff, and hope the both of you can come back. Dave LaCourse, Bottom Dweller

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Helll, when [Jeffy] sat opposite me I had to build a defensive wall consisting of wine bottles, water glasses, etc. to keep my food from ending up in his plate.

That’s good …hope the both of you can come back.

Yes, that would be good. Regards, Jeff

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What, no whitefish to report about Jeff?

I forgot!  No whitefish!  One nice thing about the fishing there is that when you hook something it’s either a salmon or brook trout (although there were rumours of some browns being in the water, which was made more confusing because apparently some salmon had red spots.)  And you know immediately which one it is by the direction the fish streaks – north or south Regards, Jeff

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Jeff C writes: What, no whitefish to report about Jeff? I forgot!  No whitefish!  One nice thing about the fishing there is that when you hook something it’s either a salmon or brook trout (although there were rumours of some browns being in the water, which was made more confusing because apparently some salmon had red spots.)  And you know immediately which one it is by the direction the fish streaks – north or south Regards, Jeff

There are both chubs (large shiner-like fish) and suckers in the Rapid.  The chubs will hit a streamer and the suckers regularly take a nymph.  In fact, on Monday I took a slucker out of 1st current.  Peter was at the tail of the current and couldn’t see it — he thought it was a big brookie.  There are also yellow perch and supposedly small mouth bass.  I’ve caught a yellow perch, but never a bass. Dave LaCourse

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There are also yellow perch and supposedly small mouth bass.

I remember now I saw a sign on the riverside that said smallmouth had been illegally "stocked" in the river.  It encouraged fishermen to keep any smallmouth that were caught, since they are "very aggressive" (in taking over trout habitat.)  I have to admit I would have been shocked to catch a perch Regards, Jeff

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- Benee and I really enjoyed our trip to Lakewood.  Ever since I dropped in on this group and mentioned to Benee the sort of names I’ve been called, she really had no interest in reading or posting.  She’s not a big internet surfer in any case.  But slowly I was able to convince her she’d enjoy a clave like the one in Maine.  I think one of the things that intrigued her was some of the handles of ROFF posters: Indian Joe, Pamlico Jim, Daytripper, Fishworship, Flyfish, Big Dale, Bruiser, Wayno, and now I guess Zimbo??, etc.  She says she will invent her own handle and post a trip report herself, and she also has pics to contribute. – First I’d like to say that one of my primary goals was to see Benee catch her first trout on a fly.  Now, as many of you know, teaching fly fishing to your significant other ranks right up there with showing them how to golf. According to Peter Charles, it is second to hanging wallpaper together.  So I’m very thankful to Dave LaCourse who not only provided a pleasant guiding experience to Benee, but actually helped her catch her first fish.  There was one tag team effort between Dave and Benee on a brookie of about 17", and after that Benee caught a salmon on her own that appeared somewhere around 14-16". Mission accomplished!! – My dream fish for the trip was an 18" native brook trout.  I never caught that fish, but I was pleasantly surprised by the salmon, which went ballistic when hooked, as Zimbo said. – I cannot claim the biggest fish, the most fish, the largest fish on a little hook, or any other meaningful accomplishment, but I do claim the toughest river crossing – *below* lower dam.  I made it, but not recommended. – I wasn’t able to stay long enough for the raffle, but look forward to whatever I might have gotten.  Also sorry I missed the bonfire.  On the way out Wednesday morning, I ran into Dave Tatosian, Paul Goodwin, and Dave (Bottom ? flyfish).  Glad I was able to at least say hi to Dave again but sorry we again didn’t get a chance to fish. – Dave LaCourse drives an Audi.  When Dave asked Benee what she did, Benee said she was an audiologist.  Dave asked Benee if she could look at his car. – One thing that’s fun about fishing with a newbie is a fresh look at some of the lingo we take for granted.  When you or I might say "Had a few splashy refusals", Benee would say "I think I had a nibble.  Didn’t pan out though." – From the sound of things, the better fishing seems to have been in the second half of the week.  Oh well!  That’s the kind of thing that keeps you coming back. – The accomodations were exactly my style.  On Sunday I only had half a day to fish, so I took a lunch with me to the river.  There wasn’t anything unique or special in the lunch bag, yet the lunch out on the river, under absolutely beautiful skies and perfect temperature, *was* special and it tasted damn good.  Hard to say why, but you know what I mean. – Jeff Miller’s week: up at 5:30 to fish before breakfast.  Sometimes pack a lunch to fish straight through.  At dinner, eat everything he ordered plus half of Dene’s order, and start drinking wine.  After dinner, sit in a rocking chair and start drinking heavier stuff.  At some point while listening to the "party", drift off to sleep.  Repeat. – It turns out Indian Joe and Dene stayed at the same bed and breakfast that Benee and I did in Portland Thursday night.  The contrast between the brochure and the actual accomodations was a joke!  Luckily we had good company to share the laugh with. – Well, Dave did a great job with the organization, thank you. Regards, Jeff

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I joined the local chapter of TU a couple of months ago when I started getting serious about flyfishing. I’ve only been to 2 meetings so far, but I’ve enjoyed both immensely, and have learned an awful lot from other members. If I had a FFF chapter near me I would probably join that too! From what I’ve seen and heard about other chapters, it all depends on the individual chapter you plan on joining as to whether they are a conservation type group or not. Although I’m in a TU chapter, quite honestly stream conservation is not the focus of the group, though it probably should be (and is supposed to be considering TU is first and foremost a conservation group). By all means join at least one of the two. There are a lot of perks to being in something like this. For example, I was planning on purchasing a seat in a 6 week fly-tying course at my local Orvis shop until I just found out my local TU chapter is running a 6-week tying class beginning the same exact night for free! And best of all, unlike the flyshop instructor who is itching to get out of there as soon as the 2-hour class is over, the TU class will basically be a bunch of guys hanging out shooting the breeze and learning until everyone gets tired and goes home (I hear they usually last 3.5-4 hours per night). Good luck!

Hi Mark!         The Fly Tying courses being held by the Delaware Valley Fly Fishing Clubs are like this. You drop by with some "stuff" and the instructor (Tom) leads into the fly of the night. Some of the others who show up just kibitz and some actually tie other flies. It’s a nice diversion and a great way to get other opinions and methods of tying. Also this was pretty much free although I’d join the club to support their efforts. Nice bunch!         Drop me a line if you’re interested! — Michael Era

Question:

Thanks everyone! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric Eric, Smith Coleman is an outstanding fly fishing instructor and works from his shop in Outdoor Adventures on Rt. 3 in Fredericksburg/Spotsylvania Virginia.  Excellent one-on-one lesson packages.  For a bit more advance lessons try Harry Murray in Edinburg Virginia over in the Valley. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

– Eric Schurr                     Coord. for Public Relations Dept. of Electrical and Computer Engineering University of Maryland         2409 A.V. Williams Bldg. College Park, Maryland 20742 Phone: (301)405-3516 Fax: (301)314-9281

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Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric

Response:

Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Eric

Eric, Smith Coleman is an outstanding fly fishing instructor and works from his shop in Outdoor Adventures on Rt. 3 in Fredericksburg/Spotsylvania Virginia.  Excellent one-on-one lesson packages.  For a bit more advance lessons try Harry Murray in Edinburg Virginia over in the Valley. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Hi! Might anyone know places for fly fishing lessons in the Greater Wash. D.C. Area? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I took a very good class a few years ago from TROUT AND ABOUT. They have different length classes, and also trips if you like. http://www.troutandabout.com/ — Jeff Cook http://www.cookstudios.com Washington DC area

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Question:

I like mine as light as possible. Just had to……

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Does anyone have an opinion about the best type of boot/sock combo for portaging and keeping your feet dry on a Boundary Waters/Quetico type trip during the summer?

        After long consideration (and posting of the same question years ago), I’ve concluded there is no perfect answer. Sandals can be great for allowing you to jump out of the canoe off of a bad landing in deeper water, but are crap for ankle support on rocky portages, or negotiating blow-downs, limbs, etc. (And what about the danger of a splinter under the toenail?) High boots would seem to be the ticket, but there’s the weight and they can tend to be hot. Really choice seems to be support or dryness. One thing I’ve thought about is a pair of those jungle boots guys had in Vietnam

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kenrat I go to the Smokeys every year in February.  Middle prong and the other areas are ok.  The most interesting fishing is off of Cade’s Cove.  Go to the parking lot at the far end of the Cove and you can enter the water there.  This is a limestone stream.  Be careful of the water as it can be contaminated by the cow manure from inside the Cove where cattle are grazed.  The stream is atypical for the park as it is the only limestone stream.  There is a trail that parallels the stream.  It is quite a hike. The best fishing lies at the falls on the far end of the trail or in an area called the horseshoe.  The best access according to the guys from there is not the trial, but the river.  They indicated that full chest waders were needed and that wading stafffs were a must. The sure thing by way of trout is the Cherokee Reservation.  It is stocked monthly by the tribe.  They sell their own license and the limit is double that of the park.  To fish the park you need either a Carolina or Tenn. license.  They don’t care which.  The fish in the reservation were of small to mid sized.  They hit on streamers.  I used a dry as a strike indicator and a couple of nymphs trailing.

Thanks for the information!  Will look at the reservation area a little more. Hadn’t really thought about it. Many thanks….Kenny

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Am new to the fly fishing arena.  Wondering if someone can give me some general info on the national park fishing areas close to the Gatlinburg area. Wondering about access, types of flys to have in arsenal for fishing for trout, rockbass or other.  Will be there during first weekend in February.  Appreciate any assistance and info! Thanks, Kenny

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Am new to the fly fishing arena.  Wondering if someone can give me some general info on the national park fishing areas close to the Gatlinburg area. Wondering about access, types of flys to have in arsenal for fishing for trout, rockbass or other.  Will be there during first weekend in February.  Appreciate any assistance and info! Thanks, Kenny

Dear Kenny!             Gatlinburg area in February can be unpredictable. If you are lucky it’s 55 degrees and sunny or it could be 32 and snow. I would try West prong of Little Pigeon right off US 441 in the park. You also have Little River and Roaring Fork easily accessible as well as Middle  prong of Little Pigeon. I would use a beadhead nymph or a streamer this time of the year. I know you can catch trout on dries in February but I have more luck with nymphs. A pheasant tail or a Hare’s ear work fine for me. I wish you could come in April or May when the real action begins but February is better than nothing. Sincerely Hans

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Try calling Jesse Brown Outdoors, Charlotte, NC to start with and talk to Don, he might be able to help you out. (704) 556-0020 Jon

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Sorry  to disappoint, but ignore the GSMNP until the spring when the water warms up, hatches appear, and the trout are active again. I know, I have  flyfished this area for 16 years.  Concentrate on the tailwaters of the area.  The Clinch river is great right now!!!!  Average catches inthe 30’s on scuds, and midges.  The S. holston is also very good, with some BWO, and occational Sulphur or two. For info call THE CREEL 423.588.6159 in Knoxville. By the way, what in the hell does a flyshop in Charlotte know of conditions in the Smokies anyway?  Let them clean up the Pigeon first, before they bring their a– over here! Phil B. check out this web page: http://funnelweb.utcc.utk.edu/~ldecuir/default.html

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry  to disappoint, but ignore the GSMNP until the spring when the water warms up, hatches appear, and the trout are active again. I know, I have  flyfished this area for 16 years.  Concentrate on the tailwaters of the area.  The Clinch river is great right now!!!!  Average catches inthe 30’s on scuds, and midges.  The S. holston is also very good, with some BWO, and occational Sulphur or two. For info call THE CREEL 423.588.6159 in Knoxville. By the way, what in the hell does a flyshop in Charlotte know of conditions in the Smokies anyway?  Let them clean up the Pigeon first, before they bring their a– over here! Phil B. check out this web page: http://funnelweb.utcc.utk.edu/~ldecuir/default.html

Thanks for a very considerate attitude. If you read my post I said try to come in April or June didn’t I? Can you read? Also I have only fished in this area for three years and I have seen hatches in February. Maybe you should stay at the Clinch and let us have the mountains. I don’t care much about the stocked trout anyway. The less time you spend in the smokies the better for me. Hans

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try calling Jesse Brown Outdoors, Charlotte, NC to start with and talk to Don, he might be able to help you out. (704) 556-0020 Jon

Thanks for the number and info.  Will try to get in contact with them.  Any help is appreciated!

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Am new to the fly fishing arena.  Wondering if someone can give me some general info on the national park fishing areas close to the Gatlinburg area. Wondering about access, types of flys to have in arsenal for fishing for trout, rockbass or other.  Will be there during first weekend in February.  Appreciate any assistance and info! Thanks, Kenny

Kenny,         I was just in the Smokies over new years (during the snowstorm).  The fishing was very bad but the scenery was great. While I was there, I picked up a copy of a book called A Flyfishing Guide to the Smoky Mountains.  It gives good information about the seasons there and gives detailed information about each of the watersheds in the National Park.  I would recommend it.  E-mail me if you need more information about the author etc.  There are a number of other texts that have come out recently on the park and fishing.  I have not yet had time to look them over.

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Kenrat I go to the Smokeys every year in February.  Middle prong and the other areas are ok.  The most interesting fishing is off of Cade’s Cove.  Go to the parking lot at the far end of the Cove and you can enter the water there.  This is a limestone stream.  Be careful of the water as it can be contaminated by the cow manure from inside the Cove where cattle are grazed.  The stream is atypical for the park as it is the only limestone stream.  There is a trail that parallels the stream.  It is quite a hike. The best fishing lies at the falls on the far end of the trail or in an area called the horseshoe.  The best access according to the guys from there is not the trial, but the river.  They indicated that full chest waders were needed and that wading stafffs were a must. The sure thing by way of trout is the Cherokee Reservation.  It is stocked monthly by the tribe.  They sell their own license and the limit is double that of the park.  To fish the park you need either a Carolina or Tenn. license.  They don’t care which.  The fish in the reservation were of small to mid sized.  They hit on streamers.  I used a dry as a strike indicator and a couple of nymphs trailing. Ron’s advice on the flies is right on. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Am new to the fly fishing arena.  Wondering if someone can give me some general info on the national park fishing areas close to the Gatlinburg area. Wondering about access, types of flys to have in arsenal for fishing for trout, rockbass or other.  Will be there during first weekend in February. Appreciate any assistance and info! Thanks, Kenny

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Smoky Mountain Questions Am new to the fly fishing arena.  Wondering if someone can give me some general info on the national park fishing areas close to the Gatlinburg area. Wondering about access, types of flys to have in arsenal for fishing for trout, rockbass or other.  Will be there during first weekend in February. Appreciate any assistance and info! Thanks, Kenny Kenny,    I was just in the Smokies over new years (during the snowstorm).  The fishing was very bad but the scenery was great. While I was there, I picked up a copy of a book called A Flyfishing Guide to the Smoky Mountains.  It gives good information about the seasons there and gives detailed information about each of the watersheds in the National Park.  I would recommend it.  E-mail me if you need more information about the author etc.  There are a number of other texts that have come out recently on the park and fishing.  I have not yet had time to look them over.

Thanks!!  Have seen the book at one of the websites.  Wondered if it was worth picking up.  Am going to try some of the bookstores around here before I look to order it. Just for anyone who is interested – Found a little 5 dollar booklet on Hatches in the Smoky Mountains.  If anyone wants any further info, let me know and I will get some.  Looked pretty helpful. Thanks….Kenny

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Question:

On the stream: * What is your normal procedure once you hit the stream? * How long does it take you to get a fly on the water? (ignoring the amount   of time you take to study the water) Leaders: * Do you usually store a leader on your reel with the line? * With knotless leaders, is the the tippet considered part of the leader?   (I presume that it is but have never seen it stated.) * If so, (or with finished knotted leaders) how many flies will you   change (how many inches of tippet clipped) before you add more tippet? Casting: * When is the "proper" time to let line out when false casting (to extend   the line to the distance you wish to cast to)?  I do it instinctively now   but none of the books I’ve read, nor the few videos I’ve watched, have   brought up the subject at all.   _Rich_

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Good questions. I generally hike into the stream wiht my rod assebeled but not strung. Streamside, this forces me to go slow and take some time to watch the water.  My rod/reel choice is often dictated by the wind conditions. Once, I determine what fly to fish, I’ll string the rod, replace the tippet (I use Braided Leaders), tie on a start.  My braided leaders generally stay on the reel. The process takes about 10 minutes if I go slowly enough. My tippets for dry fly action is generally 5x 30" to 36" long, 24" of 5x for wets,  and 18" of 4 or 3x for streamers.  I get good turnover with these legnths on Orvis braided 5x or 6x leaders of 9 or 12 ft. I’ll fish a tippet down to about half of the original legnth if I can get the drift I need. What’s proper is probably what works.  I feed line for an initial cast on both the backcast and forward false casts, hopefully leaving enough line to shoot if I’m fishing more than 40 feet away. I’m looking forward to other responses. jg

Response:

On the stream: * What is your normal procedure once you hit the stream? * How long does it take you to get a fly on the water? (ignoring the amount   of time you take to study the water)

My procedure depends somewhat on the type of water.  For Spring Creeks / Mountain Streams (my favorite) I will string up at the car and then take my time hiking to the stream when I am within 50 yards or so.  As a rule I try never to step in the water if at all possible and move as silently in the shadows as possible.  Wild Trout require this stealth.  If there are few trees or other cover, then I will crawl.  Once at the water, I almost always look for opportunities before casting.  Exceptions would be when I know that I will be fishing blind with nymphs/streamers or when the water is extremely off color. Leaders: * Do you usually store a leader on your reel with the line?  

I generally roll the leader/tippet right around the reel in as large a loop as possible.  I’ve tried leader wallets, etc.  and I think they’re too much hassle.  I tend to hit at least a bass impoundment 3 to 4 times per week and like to whip out the old 7 wt quickly and not have to unravel my leader.  Also, if you’re fishing for bass/saltwater species etc., then you’ll be using 2x-0x leaders/tippet and it takes punishment really well.  Smaller leader requires more care.  I do cover up to protect from sunlight with a neoprene cover. * With knotless leaders, is the the tippet considered part of the leader?  Yes.  The latter 2 ft or so is the tippet. * If so, (or with finished knotted leaders) how many flies will you   change (how many inches of tippet clipped) before you add more tippet?

I will add more tippet material after about 18 in (of 24 in) is used up.  This is really loose though.  If the quarry is not leader shy…then I’ll wait longer.  If you wait too long to add the proper tippet, however, then you won’t match up well with the leader material and the fly won’t turn over smoothly.   Casting: * When is the "proper" time to let line out when false casting (to extend   the line to the distance you wish to cast to)?  I do it instinctively now   but none of the books I’ve read, nor the few videos I’ve watched, have   brought up the subject at all.

If false casting is REALLY required then get the line out any way you feel comfortable with.  Forward or backward both is my preference, but I prefer shooting forward. K – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Question:

Thomas and Thomas makes an 11′ 6/7 wt with an in between length handle.

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I use the 13.5′ 7/8.  A small fish’s effort applied at the tip of this long lever arm applies more torque to my arms than the same fish on a smaller rod.  Large trout over 20" feel good and sprightly on it and can put a good bend in it. SNIP About that $560 – I think the blank is only about $250 for a build it yourself cost around $325.

Thanks for the info Mark.  Sounds like you enjoy the rod, and would… ahem… one day will.  Where I would use it there are simultaneous runs of Half Pounders and Adults to 9 lbs, the half pounders outnumbering the big boys about 12 to 1 (in my fishing log anyway).  I’ve tried building rods.  They come out fine, but the cost is always way more than what you stated (Okay!  I confess, I bought the components in my fly shop, not from a catalogue!), and took so much time for me to get it the way I wanted that it just wasn’t worth it to me.  Plus on a super light spey rod I’d be concerned about Warranty.  I agree that Car Door warranties are going too far, but if in the middle of a big single spey (within the limits of performance), if the Mid Section implodes for no reason other than the cast, I want a replacement! Phil

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have fished beside a few folks with the long, two handed rods and the only problem that I see is that they really overpower an 8-10 lb steelhead…the rods seem much better suited to a 20 lb salmon. Depends on the spey rod…  For some applications, like I use the 13.5′ 7/8.  A small fish’s effort applied at the tip of this long lever arm applies more torque to my arms than the same fish on a smaller rod.  Large trout over 20" feel good and sprightly on it and can put a good bend in it. I haven’t caught 8-10 pounders on it but a 12 and a 20 lber both took all it had to move them.  The long rod goves a big advantage in the end game as you can turn the fish back and forth and the rod will absorb any abrupt actions, but I would say that this rod overpowers them any more than another 8 weight. To me any eight weight overpowers trout under 20". This 7/8 wt.is just light enough for me to cast one handed with great

I my book anything over 4 wt. is too much for trout under 20"! Just my 0.02 cents, -Burton — L. Burton Hawley           2330 NW Hummingbird Dr. Corvallis, OR

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I have fished beside a few folks with the long, two handed rods and the only problem that I see is that they really overpower an 8-10 lb steelhead…the rods seem much better suited to a 20 lb salmon.   Depends on the spey rod…  For some applications, like half-pounders though that 7/8 would be a ton of fun!  Would love one for summer and fall steelhead, and fall browns, but at $560 bucks it ain’t gonna’ happen…

I use the 13.5′ 7/8.  A small fish’s effort applied at the tip of this long lever arm applies more torque to my arms than the same fish on a smaller rod.  Large trout over 20" feel good and sprightly on it and can put a good bend in it. I haven’t caught 8-10 pounders on it but a 12 and a 20 lber both took all it had to move them.  The long rod goves a big advantage in the end game as you can turn the fish back and forth and the rod will absorb any abrupt actions, but I would say that this rod overpowers them any more than another 8 weight. To me any eight weight overpowers trout under 20". This 7/8 wt.is just light enough for me to cast one handed with great effort.   I would be curious to find a six weight, not necessarily with the big two handed handle but longer than 10′ and tapered for spey casting. Something you could use two or one handed but mostly for spey casting. The rhythm and grace and line control and the easier two hand motion would be desireable in a lighter rod too. Once you know spey casts you’ll want better spey abilities in a trout rod, but I don’t think this is compatible with delicate casting action. That would really be a hoot for the juvenile delinquent half pounders. I’ll try some experiments with just the upper three sections and see how it works. If any rod builders want to build one I’d test it very well for you. About that $560 – I think the blank is only about $250 for a build it yourself cost around $325.   Mark VInsel — http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.html

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I have fished beside a few folks with the long, two handed rods and the only problem that I see is that they really overpower an 8-10 lb steelhead…the rods seem much better suited to a 20 lb salmon.  Yet I know it is best to play and release quickly….so it seem the question is between having a little fun by having to really play the fish, or getting them in in a hurry and thereby helping the fish.  I guess I don’t really see an answer to this "problem."  Any help? Fred Rickson

A good spey rod is *really* soft, and they used to say you should have time to light up and smoke a pipe while you were making the cast. In these terms, most modern sticks that call themselves spey rods are too stiff and these do cut down playing times on fish weighing less than ten pounds. I guess it is like the difference between landing a salmon on a Sage RPL and on a 4 weight bamboo – you’ll get the fish in eventually with the bamboo, but you’ll bank it in five minutes with the Sage. I have about thirty rods, because I have no sense of self-control, and I use them all! I tend to use spey rods on rivers where I can’t make a long backcast because of banks or trees or whatever, or on big rivers where I would have to double-haul into the future. I am not the world’s best distance caster with a shooting head, although I am working on it. I also find that the longer rod gives greater line control, letting me mend a double taper almost down to the fly at thirty yards. I guess it boils down to what your aims are in fishing. I have caught (and released) two big steelhead, one on the Bulckley (hope I spelled that OK) and the other on the Kispiox. The Kispiox fish I hooked on a nine foot Sage, and took me twenty five minutes. The Bulckely fish I hooked, after a double spey in a tight corner, on a fifteen foot rod, and I banked it in fifteen minutes. Both the fish were pretty fit afterwards, although I wasn’t too keen to catch another one too soon after the Kispiox fish! I got talking to one of the guides, and we used a spring balance to check the maximum pull the rods could exert on a fish. The fifteen foot rod actually pulled half a pound less than the Sage with the rods vertical, near as we could judge. So why did the long rod bank a fish faster? Probably because you have more line out of the water and can pull the fish’s head *up* more of the time – I don’t know. Of course, this doesn’t apply to salt water, where using a long rod on a big fish would be pretty stupid! So, if it is any help, I’d use a long rod where you can’t use a short one, or where it would help to be able to mend the line on a larger river, or when you just feel it would be a pleasant thing to do. The other thing you have to watch in some places is the politics! There is something about spey rods which gives some fishermen a problem, why I have no idea. I once got pursued by a guy for three days who had his head up his ass about catching fish with a rod longer than nine feet. In the end I pulled out my midge rod and fished that for the remainder of the week – all the while wingeing about grown men like him using rods twice as long as mine to catch salmon (man, you should have seen me generating line speed with that one.) Rods are just rods, they aren’t worth losing sleep over! Andrew (-:

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Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes! (as is this don’t bother to reply – fake email address) DH

Response:

Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes! (as is this don’t bother to reply – fake email address) DH

OK, we know that. If you have more experience than that tell us all about it. (if you like even by email). Just got my first Spey rod and am eager to hear more. Thomas — Thomas Urbig

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Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes!

I guess you mean two-handed rods when saying Spey rod. (Spey rod are two handed rods specially designed for Spey casts) Two-handed rods are certainly superior to single handed rods in many situations. But I wouldn’t count 1-handed out… It’s a matter of how large the river is, how heavy flies you are casting, if regular overhead casts are possible or not etc… I fish with both, depending on the situation and I’m happy with that.  - Tord

Response:

Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes!

I sometimes fish 6 ft wide, fast running freestone streams, targeting wild trout of about 8 inches.  I fish with a 7.6 2#.  I will admit that I have never tried it, but I think that a spey rod may just not be the optimal rod for this situation. Bruce….

Response:

Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes! I sometimes fish 6 ft wide, fast running freestone streams, targeting wild trout of about 8 inches.  I fish with a 7.6 2#.  I will admit that I have never tried it, but I think that a spey rod may just not be the optimal rod for this situation. Bruce….

you’re little trout would be transformed into might flying fish when you set up… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

Spey rods are best. Single handed rods are jokes! (as is this don’t bother to reply – fake email address) DH

I have to say that over the years I have discovered that my fifteen foot double-hander, while great fun for salmon, is not quite the optimal weapon for dry fly fishing on our local beck. Andrew

Response:

I have fished beside a few folks with the long, two handed rods and the only problem that I see is that they really overpower an 8-10 lb steelhead…the rods seem much better suited to a 20 lb salmon.  Yet I know it is best to play and release quickly….so it seem the question is between having a little fun by having to really play the fish, or getting them in in a hurry and thereby helping the fish.  I guess I don’t really see an answer to this "problem."  Any help? Fred Rickson

Response:

I have fished beside a few folks with the long, two handed rods and the only problem that I see is that they really overpower an 8-10 lb steelhead…the rods seem much better suited to a 20 lb salmon.  

Depends on the spey rod.  I have the Sage 14 foot four piece for 9/10. It only weighs seven ounces, and one look at the grip tells you it ain’t the telephone pole you might expect it to be.  Very light, very sensitive.  I can cast it one handed up to 45 feet (I’m 6′ 4", 250), and can feel when I pick up a small leaf on my fly on the swing.  Picked up a seven pound (29" by 14.5") steelhead last wednesday and it was great fun.   Sage now makes a 15 foot four piece 8/9 (that sounds like it would be a hoot!) to go along with their 13.5 foot 7/8 model (also softer than you’d think).  Personally, I wouldn’t trade my 9140-4 for the 7/8 model, because my ability to throw a line with interchangeable heads (up to a type six 10 wt!  No not Rio),  is why I catch winter steelhead while others practice casting.  For some applications, like half-pounders though that 7/8 would be a ton of fun!  Would love one for summer and fall steelhead, and fall browns, but at $560 bucks it ain’t gonna’ happen while I still own my 8 year old 10 foot seven one hander. Haven’t seen or tried the new 15 foot 8/9 yet.  The moral of the story is No two companies spey rods are alike, and you have to find one that is designed for the size and type of fish you want to catch.  I can’t recommend the Sage 4 piece rods highly enough.  Wouldn’t touch the three piecers if you paid me. Phil

Response:

Question:

I haven’t been really following this thread and there may have been some email responses as well.  Could someone summarize?  I too would like to get some polarized Rx glasses. — John Fereira, posting from historic Pleasanton, Ca. Viacom Cable "More Of What You’re Looking For"

Response:

I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? I don’t like the clip-on type – poor quality optics, and over-the-glasses types are too cumbersome.

        Yes… There’s a company called Cabela’s that has perscription polarized sunglasses for as low as $149 (and as high as $199).  They’re by "Specialized eyewear".  I’ve never heard of it, but you may have.  They look fairly nice.  Order their catalog… The number is 1-800-237-4444 (24 hours, 7 days a week, US and Canada). -Steve —      Duke Systems BBS/Info System – 216/587-4474 (10PM-7AM EST) 14.4k v.32

Response:

I have a pair of bifocal Rx polaroids I mail-ordered fro the Cabella’s catalog several years ago. They work great. I use them all the time. Price was in the $220 neighborhood, I think, which is not bad…

Response:

I have two pair of polarized prescription sunglasses.  The construction is a sandwich with the polarizing material in between.  One is plastic and very light, the other is photogray glass and doesn’t seem to be much (if any) thicker than the standard glass lenses. don’t go totally clear inside.  I doubt if I would get them again unless that aspect changed, but they do a very good job outdoors.  The plastic ones were about $160 and are extremely comfortable and effective. Enjoy, Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Stonick) says: says: MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps. I think that the polarizing mechanism is plastic. I do not think that you can get glass molecules to line up into nice rows to perform filtering to polarize the light. The glass portion of your lens is the prescription portion.  The polarizing laminate is plastic. I assume that they can join this laminate to plastic as well as glass corrective lens. I will ask my brother-in-law (optometrist). I would guess that you could even put the scratch resistant coating over the polarizing laminate. John,   If I’m wrong on this one then I’m stuck with a pair of glasses that are heavier than need be.  When I purchased these lenses there really wasn’t any question about whether they were glass of plastic…no choice.  After looking at my sunglasses (which I just did) I cannot really tell if they are glass or plastic.  They are abou the same thickness as my regular lenses (plastic).  I suppose the important point was that they said they were not scratch resistant. Again…if they can be made scratch resistant…I missed the boat. One other important item not to be overlooked.  When you purchase the frames, assuming you buy something like a Ray Ban or other regular sunglass, buy the version with regular sunglass lenses rather than polarized, non-prescription lenses which will cost you a lot more.  I think the difference between buying my sunglasses with regular vs polarized non-script lenses was 85. vs 130. Don’t let them sucker you into the non-script polarized unless you may need them later (eg if you buy contacts and might switch lenses). Sorry for all the long-windedness of this..the end result is that I really like the glasses I have and would recommend getting prescription polarized.                                Scott

— — — Steve Bunis,  Sun Microsystems  ***DoD #0795***        93-ST1100   —               Itasca, IL       ***AMA #682049***         —                               ***HRCA #HM125617** —                                  *** N9VLP ***

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – says: MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps. I think that the polarizing mechanism is plastic. I do not think that you can get glass molecules to line up into nice rows to perform filtering to polarize the light. The glass portion of your lens is the prescription portion.  The polarizing laminate is plastic.   I assume that they can join this laminate to plastic as well as glass corrective lens. I will ask my brother-in-law (optometrist).   I would guess that you could even put the scratch resistant coating over the polarizing laminate.

The laminate the polaarizing plastic over your lense (plastic or glass). — Richard Park    

Response:

Stonick) says: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – says: MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps. I think that the polarizing mechanism is plastic. I do not think that you can get glass molecules to line up into nice rows to perform filtering to polarize the light. The glass portion of your lens is the prescription portion.  The polarizing laminate is plastic. I assume that they can join this laminate to plastic as well as glass corrective lens. I will ask my brother-in-law (optometrist). I would guess that you could even put the scratch resistant coating over the polarizing laminate.

John,   If I’m wrong on this one then I’m stuck with a pair of glasses that are heavier than need be.  When I purchased these lenses there really wasn’t any question about whether they were glass of plastic…no choice.  After looking at my sunglasses (which I just did) I cannot really tell if they are glass or plastic.  They are abou the same thickness as my regular lenses (plastic).  I suppose the important point was that they said they were not scratch resistant. Again…if they can be made scratch resistant…I missed the boat. One other important item not to be overlooked.  When you purchase the frames, assuming you buy something like a Ray Ban or other regular sunglass, buy the version with regular sunglass lenses rather than polarized, non-prescription lenses which will cost you a lot more.  I think the difference between buying my sunglasses with regular vs polarized non-script lenses was 85. vs 130. Don’t let them sucker you into the non-script polarized unless you may need them later (eg if you buy contacts and might switch lenses). Sorry for all the long-windedness of this..the end result is that I really like the glasses I have and would recommend getting prescription polarized.                                Scott

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Path: zcias2.ziff.com!noc.near.net!news.bu.edu!olivea!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston .ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!sbm1 Organization: Penn State University Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing Lines: 44

USA Sport makes a plastic polarized lens that allows for a prescription insert. I’ve got two pairs of the frames, one in gold smoke and one a gray/green polarized which lets me move the insert into the appropriate frame. They run about $250 for the first set with prescription insert, then about $80 for just the polarized frame and lense combo. If you have a Price Club/Costco near you, they handle these in their optical departments. If you buy there you can cut the price in half. David< – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – says:        Hi all, I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? I don’t like the clip-on type – poor quality optics, and over-the-glasses types are too cumbersome.        Thanx, — — Mike…… I’ve spent years dealing with this problem.  Used clip-ons, space goggles, etc and was always slightly dissatisfied.  Also went to route of wearing contacts and then purchasing polarized non-prescriptions but I gave up on the contacts. My solution was to finally spend the money to purchase polarized/prescriptions and I’ve been thrilled with the results.  I do a lot of fly fishing and these things can really let me see all the details. Some suggestions:  I believe Cabelas (and others) do carry frames and will allow you to order prescription lenses but I don’t know if I like this idea. Any decent optical shop can order polarized lenses for you but they don’t come cheap.  MAJOR CONCERN:  keep in mind that you can use any "optical quality" frame to hold your lenses.  This means they must have screws that open the frame to allow the lense placement.  YOU CANNOT use frames that "pop" lenses into a nylon frame. I mention this because I had a pair of Ray Ban Cats (nylon frame) and they could not put polarized lenses into them…the polarizing filter is laminated or sandwiched within the rest of the lense and the fear is that by popping the lense into the frame you will de-laminate the lense. I purchase a pair of Ray Ban frames (outdoorsmen, pilot-style) of optical quality and then ordered polarized lenses in my Rx.  I went through Pearle Express but any decent optical place should be able to help you.  If you can find frames cheaper elsewhere…do so, but make sure they are optical quality! Pearle just had a so-called "deal" of 50% off all frames…but even with this, they weren’t cheap.  My bottom line on this…I debated for years before making this decision but I think it was worth the extra money. MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps.                         Scott Maitland E. Chicago, IN. 46312                | "Failure is NOT an option"

David Chernicoff — Any opinion expressed is mine….     unless I’ve been kidnapped by aliens..     in which case, it’s ours…… <—

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The answer is YES, I’ve been wearing polorized bifocals for years.  See your optomitrist<sp? and he should be able to order them.  They do cost some but make all the difference on the water. Aloha – bob    ooo_

: I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? : — Mike……

away.  Can you get prescription bifocals in polorized glasses, plain lense on top and mags down low?  That would be perfect for my applications. Bryan Call (719)590-5772  |All opinions expressed here are mine & mine alone.

Response:

says: MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps.

I think that the polarizing mechanism is plastic. I do not think that you can get glass molecules to line up into nice rows to perform filtering to polarize the light. The glass portion of your lens is the prescription portion.  The polarizing laminate is plastic.   I assume that they can join this laminate to plastic as well as glass corrective lens. I will ask my brother-in-law (optometrist).   I would guess that you could even put the scratch resistant coating over the polarizing laminate. — John "fish tremble when they hear my name" Stonick

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        Hi all, I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? I don’t like the clip-on type – poor quality optics, and over-the-glasses types are too cumbersome.         Thanx, — — Mike…… Process Automation Dept. M.C. 2-467  | UUCP:…!UUNET!Inland!Tichenor Inland Steel Co.                     | Prodigy: WBFC49A 3210 Watling St.                     | Voice: (219)399-5777 E. Chicago, IN. 46312                | "Failure is NOT an option"

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says:        Hi all, I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? I don’t like the clip-on type – poor quality optics, and over-the-glasses types are too cumbersome.        Thanx, — — Mike……

 I’ve spent years dealing with this problem.  Used clip-ons, space goggles, etc and was always slightly dissatisfied.  Also went to route of wearing contacts and then purchasing polarized non-prescriptions but I gave up on the contacts. My solution was to finally spend the money to purchase polarized/prescriptions and I’ve been thrilled with the results.  I do a lot of fly fishing and these things can really let me see all the details. Some suggestions:  I believe Cabelas (and others) do carry frames and will allow you to order prescription lenses but I don’t know if I like this idea. Any decent optical shop can order polarized lenses for you but they don’t come cheap.  MAJOR CONCERN:  keep in mind that you can use any "optical quality" frame to hold your lenses.  This means they must have screws that open the frame to allow the lense placement.  YOU CANNOT use frames that "pop" lenses into a nylon frame. I mention this because I had a pair of Ray Ban Cats (nylon frame) and they could not put polarized lenses into them…the polarizing filter is laminated or sandwiched within the rest of the lense and the fear is that by popping the lense into the frame you will de-laminate the lense. I purchase a pair of Ray Ban frames (outdoorsmen, pilot-style) of optical quality and then ordered polarized lenses in my Rx.  I went through Pearle Express but any decent optical place should be able to help you.  If you can find frames cheaper elsewhere…do so, but make sure they are optical quality! Pearle just had a so-called "deal" of 50% off all frames…but even with this, they weren’t cheap.  My bottom line on this…I debated for years before making this decision but I think it was worth the extra money. MAJOR DRAWBACK:  polarized lenses are heavier (glass) and NOT scratch resistant…after what you’ll pay for them you learn to be very careful. Hope this helps.                          Scott Maitland – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -E. Chicago, IN. 46312                | "Failure is NOT an option"

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: says: : :        Hi all, : I was wondering if there is a source for polarized, prescription sunglasses? : I don’t like the clip-on type – poor quality optics, and over-the-glasses : types are too cumbersome. :        Thanx, : — : — Mike…… :  I’ve spent years dealing with this problem.  Used clip-ons, space goggles, etc : My solution was to finally spend the money to purchase polarized/prescriptions : and I’ve been thrilled with the results.  I do a lot of fly fishing and these : things can really let me see all the details. I don’t wear prescrition glasses but do take magnifiers with me on the water.  As I get older, I find that focusing up close (tying flys and tying the darn #24s on a 7X tipit) has become a problem.  The magnifiers solve the problem but prevent you from seeing anything beyond a foot away.  Can you get prescription bifocals in polorized glasses, plain lense on top and mags down low?  That would be perfect for my applications. Remember:  Fishing is NOT a matter of life and death.               It is much more important than that!            Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day.               Teach a man to fish and you get rid of him on weekends. Bryan Call (719)590-5772  |All opinions expressed here are mine & mine alone. Hewlett-Packard Co.       |  But then, I’ve never let that stop me before.     P.O. BOX 2197             |    Many men go fishing all their lives without Colorado Springs, Co 80901|    knowing that it is not fish they are after.

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