Question:

Dave, when you get the details all worked out. Post a thread outlining same so everybody won’t respond to such a length that I read them all and get confused. And I hope you recoup your investment first……

Response:

Asadi writes: Dave, when you get the details all worked out. Post a thread outlining same so everybody won’t respond to such a length that I read them all and get confused. And I hope you recoup your investment first……

Will do that, John.  The participation has slowed – 37 tickets right now.  BTW, I ain’t doin’ this to regain any investment.  Remember when I bought it from Vern that several kind folks sent me money which I sent to a teacher in Maine who teaches his 9th graders fly fishing. Dave

Response:

Question:

Hello Everyone,  I’m gearing up to do a bit of small lake fishing next week.  I really haven’t done much lake fly fishing over the past few years so I’m not real sure what to bring along for patterns.  Can anyone suggest some good "general" patterns for exploration on high mountain lakes? TIA

Response:

Hello Everyone,  I’m gearing up to do a bit of small lake fishing next week.  I really haven’t done much lake fly fishing over the past few years so I’m not real sure what to bring along for patterns.  Can anyone suggest some good "general" patterns for exploration on high mountain lakes? TIA

These are the flies I use over here in Scotland on hill lochs :- http://www.ftscotland.co.uk/flyindex.html especially the "Dry fly", "Hill Loch Nymph" and "Iron Blue Wetfly". — Don`t Worry, Be Happy       Sandy —       Website:-  http://www.ftscotland.co.uk     IRC:- Sandyb in #rabble  uk3.arcnet.vapor.com Port:6667      #Rabble Channel Website:- http://www.ftscotland.co.uk/rabble              ICQ : 41266150

Response:

These are the flies I use over here in Scotland on hill lochs :- http://www.ftscotland.co.uk/flyindex.html especially the "Dry fly", "Hill Loch Nymph" and "Iron Blue Wetfly".

Thanks for the link Sandy!  It’s good to see someone talk about fly fishing around here…. — Opinions are like assholes.  Everyone’s got one. … and they all stink!

Response:

Thanks for the link Sandy!  It’s good to see someone talk about fly fishing around here….

Yeah, beats the hell out of gratuitous insults, don’t it? Opinions are like assholes.  Everyone’s got one.

makes you superfluous, huh? … and they all stink!

We are pleased to bow to your authority. Wolfgang o.k., who wants to ask how someone comes to know so much about rectal redolence?

Response:

Thanks for the link Sandy!  It’s good to see someone talk about fly fishing around here…. Yeah, beats the hell out of gratuitous insults, don’t it?

Opinions are like assholes.  Everyone’s got one. makes you superfluous, huh?

… and they all stink! We are pleased to bow to your authority.

— Opinions are like assholes.  Everyone’s got one. … and they all stink!

Response:

Question:

Got an Inside Passage cruise booked for the week of June 15th with my wife and kids, my parents and my brothers.  The boys are looking for some fly fishing opportunities when we are in any and all ports.  Does anyone have any recommendations for locations, guides, or do-it-yourself tips for Seward, Skagway, Ketchikan, orJuneau?  Thanks.  ~  The other "Bob A"

Response:

Bob A. (the other one) writes: Got an Inside Passage cruise booked for the week of June 15th with my wife and kids, my parents and my brothers.  The boys are looking for some fly fishing opportunities when we are in any and all ports.  Does anyone have any recommendations for locations, guides, or do-it-yourself tips for Seward, Skagway, Ketchikan, orJuneau?  Thanks.  ~  The other "Bob A"

Go to:  http://www.google.com/ Type in the above towns, one at a time, within quotes, and + "fly fishing" i.e. "seward" + "fly fishing" You’ll get thousands of hits; you will have to go through them and see what is important/interesting to you.  Good luck. Dave

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Question:

So before you spend big $$s on tying technique books, ‘a kit’, materials you don’t know, vises, new gizmos, threads, hooks, gear, etc. contact me. There’s NO charge, NO fee. Just sound FREE advice from someone who has no affiliation to any manufacturer, catalog company, fly shop or publisher. And, if I can’t answer your question, I’ll say so!

Allan, that’s extremely nice of you and I assume that most people will take you at your word. Don’t be suprised, though, if a few people are skeptical because (1) your subject line is in all capital letters, (2) unless I’m mistaken, you haven’t posted much if at all on this newsgroup in the past, and (3) the phraseology of your post sounds a bit like one of those "too good to be true" sales pitches. Unfortunately, the combination of these three things gives your post the flavor of SPAM. I hope that’s not the case. One litmus test of whether or not someone has solely commercial interests in participating in this newsgroup is a simple examination of his or her posting habits. That said, I hope you’ll make a habit of sharing your fly tying insight with us. So here’s your first question… I’ve considered starting fly tying but can never quite justify it in my mind since I’m not sure it’s something I would enjoy. Here’s what I’d probably tie: parachute Adams, EHC, very small pheasant tail nymphs with and without bead, orange and yellow stimulators, foam beetles, yellow humpies, winged red ants, black gnats, tiny cream midges, even tinier griffiths gnats, and assorted woolly buggers. Is there one vise I can buy that will allow me to tie these flies? How much would I have to spend on supplies and materials to be able to tie these flies? –Steve

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This group appears only to be interested in advice coupled with at least a modicum of bullshit. So basically, no bullshit, no dice. The group exists for exchanging information ( and bullshit), so that everybody can participate. What is the point of going to e-mail ? If ROFF can not answer your questions, we will do it anyway. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s..

Response:

<< So here’s your first question… I’ve considered starting fly tying but can never quite justify it in my mind since I’m not sure it’s something I would enjoy. Here’s what I’d probably tie: parachute Adams, EHC, very small pheasant tail nymphs with and without bead, orange and yellow stimulators, foam beetles, yellow humpies, winged red ants, black gnats, tiny cream midges, even tinier griffiths gnats, and assorted woolly buggers. Is there one vise I can buy that will allow me to tie these flies? How much would I have to spend on supplies and materials to be able to tie these flies? –Steve    Very nice.  And can he field strip an M50, blindfolded? GKT

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Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s..

        great to have you back, connelly…but there’s no need for that false name and addy! wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s..    great to have you back, connelly…but there’s no need for that false name and addy! wayno

<SPLORK!

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Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s..

Should it be legal to patent or trademark a pattern ? Thanks man, — Halfordian Golfer It is impossible to catch and release a wild trout. A cash flow runs through it.

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Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s.. Should it be legal to patent or trademark a pattern ?

I don’t see why not. Might be hard to enforce, though. If you determine the genetic sequence of a natrual insect you can patent it under fairly broad conditions. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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Allan,    Your offer is appreciated by the members of ROFF, and are you also willing to share the price of your flies? Ernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s.. After 40 years of fly tying (probably over 50,000 flies) mostly for trout up here in the n.e. (Catskills), fly fishing and reading all that I can get my hands on I think I’ve learned some things that may help you find solutions to your fly tying and maybe fly fishing problems. So before you spend big $$s on tying technique books, ‘a kit’, materials you don’t know, vises, new gizmos, threads, hooks, gear, etc. contact me. There’s NO charge, NO fee. Just sound FREE advice from someone who has no affiliation to any manufacturer, catalog company, fly shop or publisher. And, if I can’t answer your question, I’ll say so! Tight Wraps Allan

Response:

Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s..

Without ANY b.s. ? Boy, are you ever in the wrong newsgroup. Just kiddin’ Allan, but it would be more appropriate to just chime in here on the newsgroup for all to read when you have something to contribute rather than popping in here unannounced and soliciting private email. — Ken Fortenberry

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s.. After 40 years of fly tying (probably over 50,000 flies) mostly for trout up here in the n.e. (Catskills), fly fishing and reading all that I can get my hands on I think I’ve learned some things that may help you find solutions to your fly tying and maybe fly fishing problems. So before you spend big $$s on tying technique books, ‘a kit’, materials you don’t know, vises, new gizmos, threads, hooks, gear, etc. contact me. There’s NO charge, NO fee. Just sound FREE advice from someone who has no affiliation to any manufacturer, catalog company, fly shop or publisher. And, if I can’t answer your question, I’ll say so! Tight Wraps Allan

Thanks Allan, I have a question or two….. questions that concern legitimacy. To the best of my recollection, this is your first message to this august body. Hence, my natural-borne skepticism. Are questions to be posted here at ROFF where you will answer them here publically at ROFF? Or do you prefer that questions be sent to you via e-mail? If the latter, what is your privacy policy concerning the security of e-mail addresses of questionaires? Since you mentioned that you had no affilition with fly shops, etc., but failed to mention that you had *no* affiliation with internet marketeers, I ask these hard questions not to dissuade your altruism, but to clarify your position concerning the privacy of ROFFians who visit this newsgroup, and who, unwittingly, may fall prey to the tentacles of ever-present address collectors who share or sell their lists to spammers. My questions are not posed nor meant to demean your knowledge and your apparent willingness to share that knowledge. That is commendable. *But*, please excuse my skepticism…. we’ve seen these types of posts before. –Walt — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

Response:

Do you have a fly tying question?  I don’t have all the answers but, what I do know, I’m willing to share without any b.s.. After 40 years of fly tying (probably over 50,000 flies) mostly for trout up here in the n.e. (Catskills), fly fishing and reading all that I can get my hands on I think I’ve learned some things that may help you find solutions to your fly tying and maybe fly fishing problems. So before you spend big $$s on tying technique books, ‘a kit’, materials you don’t know, vises, new gizmos, threads, hooks, gear, etc. contact me. There’s NO charge, NO fee. Just sound FREE advice from someone who has no affiliation to any manufacturer, catalog company, fly shop or publisher. And, if I can’t answer your question, I’ll say so! Tight Wraps Allan

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Question:

Our California rivers are full of lead and mercury.  Fortunately it settles to the bedrock below the gravel and hopefully does little damage.  My friend looks for gold in our Mother Load Rivers while I fish for trout.  The lead is from bullets, the mercury was left by the 49ers.  Quite often the mercury is attached to gold. Ernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sadly (for those of us who like to use it) real lead foil is fast becoming a thing of the past on wine bottles.  Lead has caused the same level of concern in this arena as it has elsewhere.  More and more wineries are changing over to other materials.  Plastic, tin, aluminum, and perhaps a few other materials are becoming more and more common.

Response:

I’m afraid I have to disagree with Mike and Wolfgang here. These days, many of the flies tied in third world countries are pretty good.

I can’t think of the brand right now but there is one line of mass produced flies that seems decent.  It comes in a yellow package and has somebody’s name on it but the logo/graphics look nearly identical to the old Fred Arbogast lure company logo.  I think it might be Hank Roberts or something like that.  Not sure about the matierals but the tying is better than the others. Most of the flies I have seen at K-Mart however are fairly crappy. Mu

Response:

I would agree actually Tony, especially as regards the Fulling Mill flies, and there are a couple of others which are not bad.  I have seen a great deal of "Bubble packaged" stuff however, especially in big stores, which was absolutely awful. These things are often sold by the big chains, and not in tackle shops etc.  These were what I meant. It certainly was not my intention to brand all these producers as "sweat shops".  My apologies if I caused such an impression. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m afraid I have to disagree with Mike and Wolfgang here. These days, many of the flies tied in third world countries are pretty good. I’m certain that the wages paid are pretty low by our standards, but to brand all third world manufacture as ’sweat shops’ is probably both unfair and inaccurate. The flies that are marketed here by ‘Fulling Mill Flies’ are (in many cases) quite excellent. They are tied in Kenya and Barry Unwin’s people are very good on product development and quality control. It doesn’t particularly matter that an African woman is never going to go fly fishing. If she’s nimble-fingered enough to tie good quality flies and it’s paying her a decent wage (by local standards), what’s the problem? I have often looked at some of Fulling Mill’s standard patterns (Muddlers, for example) and thought to myself: ‘Why the hell do I bother tying my own?’

I’m not familiar with Fulling Mill’s products Tony.   Judging from what I have seen of the flies sold in the big discount stores like K-Mart they aren’t handling these products.  None of the stuff I’ve seen sold in such places was made by anyone who shows much evidence of being nimble fingered or of being familiar with the patterns upon which their wares are allegedly modeled.  In these products it is not unusual to see that the heads are already unraveling in the package.  Feathers are mismatched, badly frayed, poorly dyed, and askew. This is merely the beginning of what could be a very long list of sins.  And all of this is apparent just looking through the packaging. I think the best way for David to assess these flies is to buy a single package and then take them to a fly shop for comparison.  Even a rank novice should easily be able to see and evaluate the differences.

Response:

Thanks for the info. I thought that by crimping the end of the solder, the rosin would be sealed inside, but it’s too thick to use anyway. Great idea about the lead foil though. I’m not much of a drinker, and had no idea that wrapping was made of lead.  I went ahead and bought a few packs of cheap flies, just for casting practice, for when I finally get my rod and reel.

Sadly (for those of us who like to use it) real lead foil is fast becoming a thing of the past on wine bottles.  Lead has caused the same level of concern in this arena as it has elsewhere.  More and more wineries are changing over to other materials.  Plastic, tin, aluminum, and perhaps a few other materials are becoming more and more common.

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Re side question. Not sure but solder is possible contaminant which should not be used for weighting flies. Would probably be better if you bought the proper stuff from shop just to be safe unless someone can say for sure solder is safe. Regards from Montreal John Brkich

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Re side question. Not sure but solder is possible contaminant which should not be used for weighting flies. Would probably be better if you bought the proper stuff from shop just to be safe unless someone can say for sure solder is safe.

Solder was traditionally made from various proportions of lead and tin. You can still get this stuff but it is being replaced by lead free solder.  The new alloys are being distributed precisely because of concerns over lead poisoning.  Presumably they are safer….at least until we hear otherwise.  The old stuff, since it contains lead, is to be considered somewhat dangerous, but obviously no more so than the lead wire and weights which are still being sold and widely used.  The lead foil wrappers from wine bottles are very useful but equally dangerous. Aside from the lead question, solder has another problem.  Cored solder is hollow and filled with either rosin or acid, either of which works as a flux.  This helps to keep work surfaces from oxidizing under heat, thus ensuring that the melted solder will stick.  Both rosin and acids are corrosive and toxic.  Prolonged or intense exposure to either is something of a health hazard, not to mention the damage they can do to fly tying materials.  Given enough time, the acid from acid core solder will completely disintegrate steel hooks.  You can imagine what it might do to more fragile materials.

Response:

Thanks for the info. I thought that by crimping the end of the solder, the rosin would be sealed inside, but it’s too thick to use anyway. Great idea about the lead foil though. I’m not much of a drinker, and had no idea that wrapping was made of lead.  I went ahead and bought a few packs of cheap flies, just for casting practice, for when I finally get my rod and reel.

Response:

I do not know the specific flies you mention, but most of the chains carry flies made in Africa and other places using almost sweatshop labour Some of these are useable, many more  are not. Materials are substituted, patterns are freely bastardised, the quality is often poor,

(etc., snipped) I’m afraid I have to disagree with Mike and Wolfgang here. These days, many of the flies tied in third world countries are pretty good. I’m certain that the wages paid are pretty low by our standards, but to brand all third world manufacture as ’sweat shops’ is probably both unfair and inaccurate. The flies that are marketed here by ‘Fulling Mill Flies’ are (in many cases) quite excellent. They are tied in Kenya and Barry Unwin’s people are very good on product development and quality control. It doesn’t particularly matter that an African woman is never going to go fly fishing. If she’s nimble-fingered enough to tie good quality flies and it’s paying her a decent wage (by local standards), what’s the problem? I have often looked at some of Fulling Mill’s standard patterns (Muddlers, for example) and thought to myself: ‘Why the hell do I bother tying my own?’ Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

Response:

The local K-Mart is being renovated into a Super K-Mart, and all their Blue Fox and Scientific Angler flies are marked down to about 50 cents per fly. Are these flies any good from the standpoint of (a) being well made and durable, or, (b) being useful "models" to emulate when tying my own? Side question: I have some resin core solder, .062" diameter. is this about the right size for making weighted nymphs?

Response:

The local K-Mart is being renovated into a Super K-Mart, and all their Blue Fox and Scientific Angler flies are marked down to about 50 cents per fly. Are these flies any good from the standpoint of (a) being well made and durable, or, (b) being useful "models" to emulate when tying my own? Side question: I have some resin core solder, .062" diameter. is this about the right size for making weighted nymphs?

a. no b. no c. no Any flies you can buy at K-mart are crap.  These flies are all made in places where they have never been used for fly fishing; Kenya, Sri Lanka, etc., and the people making them have almost certainly never had the leisure to use anything like them.  I’ve bought some over the years just to see how well they were made (despite the fact that a glance through the packaging spoke volumes).  They are invariably shit.  Many of them bear only a superficial resemblance to well known patterns whether or not they actually have a name of some sort printed on the package and many of them do not. .062" is a sixteenth of an inch.  MUCH too large for most fly tying applications.  Might be marginally useful for shaping and weighting huge woolly buggers or something similar but the vast majority of patterns in whatever size would never call for anything that large.  Besides, either rosin or acid core solder is a very poor choice because of the effects the flux will have on all the other materials, none of which you are likely to find beneficial.

Response:

I do not know the specific flies you mention, but most of the chains carry flies made in Africa and other places using almost sweatshop labour Some of these are useable, many more  are not. Materials are substituted, patterns are freely bastardised, the quality is often poor, the hooks are not good etc etc.  Best to avoid such flies. The "bubble packaged" ones seem especially awful. The packaging probably costs a lot more than the content. Doubtless five hundred incensed anglers will now write and tell me that they use nothing else, and that the flies are basically perfect. Nevertheless, experience suggests you should avoid such flies unless you know the exact source and reputation of the manufacturer. The solder you mention is quite a bit too thick really. Also you do not know what effect the chemicals in the flux may have on your materials, and the resin core makes it considerably lighter than lead wire.  Most fly-dressing supply houses supply suitable lead wire on bobbins. Save the lead sheet from your whisky and wine bottle tops, this can be cut into strips and used to wrap bodies etc. If you use lead to weight flies, then give it a coat of lacquer, cement, etc, before forming the body, as otherwise the lead will "bleed" through the body and ruin  the fly. For weighting some flies you can use pieces of "paper clips". Cut these to length using side cutters, and then place them parallel to the hook shank on both sides, top and bottom as well if you like, and whip them on.  This makes nicely formed bodies for some nymphs, and guarantees the exact same weight every time. This also works well with copper wire, even thicker stuff which you can not wrap normally. You can also form the lead foil from bottles etc using a set of old wing cutters. This makes really good consistent nymph bodies with the right shape for many nymphs in various sizes. Use one "lead wing" whipped to the top of the hook, or one under one over and then whipped etc.  The weight is also very consistent on these flies, as the exact same amount of lead is used every time, assuming the foil is of the same thickness. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

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Question:

Where can I get a good online map that shows the rivers in the Glacier NP area? Thanks in advance!

Don’t know about an online map.  What you really want is the book "Fly Fishing the Blackfeet Country" by Robert F. Fairchild.  I think the best fly fishing in the lower 48 is in the lakes of the Blackfeet reservation, which is everything east of Glacier for about an hours drive.  The rivers of the Blackfeet Res also have some decent fishing if you are into smaller fish.  If fishing is your thing instead of site seeing, I wouldn’t even bother with the park proper.  A tribal fishing permit costs about $35/yr.  No state licenses are required while on the reservation.

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Where can I get a good online map that shows the rivers in the Glacier NP area? Thanks in advance!

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writes: Where can I get a good online map that shows the rivers in the Glacier NP area? Thanks in advance!

Hey, Timbo.  Judging by the address, you should probably handle this one. Is he family?   <G Dave L.      —–  Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free Usenet News via the Web  —–      —–  http://newsone.net/ —  Discussions on every subject. —–    NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam.  If this or other posts

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Question:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? ThanksYes.  I’ve used it for Muskie (and Largemouths).  It does everything I

need from such a line.  I can even roll-cast, after a fashion. Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga, ON http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rlundy — Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga, ON, Canada http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rlundy

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Simon, I had great success for pike using a shooting head system with intermediate thru xtra-fast sink heads. I bought a couple of floating shooting heads, but never used them because they’re incredibly thick and bulky on the reel when compared with the sinking heads. Also, since you’ll probably be fishing big streamers and stripping them most of the time, it really doesn’t matter if the head sinks. (Often it’s even more desirable to use xtra-fast sink to get the streamers down to submerged weed beds. As to the special-purpose pike lines, I havn’t tried them because I just can’t justify a line which was built for just one specific purpose like that. A good shooting-head system is infinitely more versatile. (Plus allows you to cast heavier flies further and with less effort than a full-length line.) Regards, Fred

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Simon,    I don’t think shooting heads will give you any advantages.  In fact, I think they’ll cause more problems than fix.  A long cast is not needed, and the pike often hit it close to the boat leaving you with a bunch of line to clear.  Sight fishing is also a definite possibility with pike, so you need a line that can deliver the fly accurately.  Also, in the spring and fall they are in shallow water, so a sinking line is not needed (maybe for summer).  I use a cortland pike taper, and it works fine, but I’ve thrown the same flies (2/0 bunny flies and mega-divers) with an inexpensive cortland 444 WF 8wt and a bass bug taper lazer line.  They work well enough.  In my opinion, a shooting taper is not the correct line.  A pike or bass bug floating weight forward is what I’d reccomend. Rob Gregoire

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Question:

I am new to fly tying and am looking for inexpensive grizzly saddle hackle for saltwater flies. If you know of a great mail-order house or local store that is worth checking out prices, email me or post. Thanks.

Hi rocdoc Dan Baileys has some fairly good strung saddle hackle that should work for you. Just call them at 800-356-4052 for a catalog or to order. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

Almost every flyshop (local or mail order) will have inexpensive hackle of all types. Yes, they are great for saltwater and other flies where size and stiffness are not critical. After some experience with that, high quality hackle makes good sense if the flies you are tying demand it. Don’t forget, ask your fly shop employees for help! They’ve been there too.

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I am new to fly tying and am looking for inexpensive grizzly saddle hackle for saltwater flies. If you know of a great mail-order house or local store that is worth checking out prices, email me or post. Thanks.

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Question:

   Does anyone know Bill Hunter’s address or phone number. He no longer owns Hunter’s Angling but sells some stuff out of his house I need. Thanks in advance.    Ralph —

Response:

   Does anyone know Bill Hunter’s address or phone number. He no longer owns Hunter’s Angling but sells some stuff out of his house I need. Thanks in advance.    Ralph —

Last I heard he was in New Boston NH. There is a listing in the Select Phone CD. Bill Hunter, 223 S Hill Rd, New Boston NH 03070, 603-487-3844 Don’t know if that is the same Bill you’re looking for but it’s worth a shot. I haven’t been to his shop in years & wasn’t even aware he had sold it. Tight Lines. Byard

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Question:

Quoting lauraoli from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    If  anyone has sources for    materials at good prices I would be interested in that as well.  Thank    you in advance! Try     Anglers Workshop         P.O. Box 1044         1350 Atlantic         Woodland, Wa. 1044         1-206-225-9445         1-206-225-6359 Jim in Southern California `[1;30;47mRainbow V 1.06 for Delphi – Registered

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I have built two rods.  I bought the cork handle, reel seat, and guides from Angler’s Workshop in Woodland, WA., for the last rod and beleive I got a very good deal from them.  I bought my epoxy glue for the handle, thread and wrapping finish from them.  They have been very helpful.  For books, I have Skip Morris’s and L.A. Garcia’s.  I like both, but if I only had one I would use Skip’s.  They may be in your library.  For tools,  I bought a reamer for the cork handle.  The wrapping finish kit had syringes for measuring and brushes for applying.  I make my own rod support and used a book to develop the trhead tension like Morris explained in his book.  I bought a pen tip and ink as he suggested for the inscription at a stationary store.  Masking tape, tip top adhesive,   and some fine sandpaper and that is about it.  I would get Morris’s book and work with Angler’s Workshop.  I do not think they will try to sell you what you do not need.  Call them at 206-225-9445 and they will send you a catalog.  Both rods have come out nice.  One is a Sage 9′ 6 wt, and the other is a St. Croix 8′6" 5/6 wt pack rod.

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Summary: Keywords: Hello, I am attemping to build my first rod.  I have sent off for a book on building rods, but I am interested in information from some people that  have actually tied your own rod.  What materials and equipment will I just HAVE to have?  I have my blank already.  But I would like a few tips on things to watch for and supplies I need and those I might can do   with out. Also, If  anyone has sources for materials at good prices I would be interested in that as well.  Thank you in advance! Fish whenever you can and dream about it when you can’t! Thanks again, Kelli B. c/o RLaura Oliveri

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