Question:

….or someone’s asleep at the wheel….. — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you need 12 inch forceps to remove a hook from fish, you might as well just open the mouth and crawl inside to fetch the hook for yourself cause that fish is HUGE! Mike I read where a guy had 9 inch and 12 inch forceps. I got the smaller version but i could also get the 12 inch forceps. They sure seem long. But if your in a pinch (no pun intended) you may be glad you got them. I like the 9 inchers since they fit in my vest pocket. Al Have fishing rod…will travel. Prospective accomplice in fishing

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BQ writes: Bite me  you jerk bait……

I wouldn’t ask you to reciprocate. Al Have fishing rod…will travel. Prospective accomplice in fishing

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Ya. We use ‘em here to serve salad.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – actually, there are many types of forceps…..In a sense you are both right. There is such a thing as hemostatic forceps, they are used to clamp things such as arteries. The forceps that you are probably thinking of are the ones that are used to deliver babies. These are like tongs. see http://www.surgical911.com/cgi-bin/framemgr.pl?Main=Hemostatic+Forceps Mike Fishing forceps like needle nose pliers. Mentioned in lots of fishing books mismentioned, actually. The tool you are describing is actually a hemostat. Forceps are like tongs. RichZ

Question:

Warren Findley: Other question.  Where do you find those colored beads at?

Spirit River makes them and I get them from Hunter’s.  You don’t have to tie the grw with them — it’s just an experiment and it seems to work (i.e., I caught fish with them).  Gold and copper work just as well. Dave LaCourse

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The shops I go to only has black, brass, silver, copper and gold.  Is there a place to mail order these or something?  I really like those colored beads.

Some of those strange colored beads are available from Orvis, and knowing Dave I suspect that is where he got his. If you want to mail order some very cool ones check out the plastic ones from Mike Hogue at MWFlytying.com. He has two types of colored plastic beads available, one type sinks and the other type float. Once he bought his Sage 0 weight for bluegill fishing he found that it was too light to be able to use normal metal beadhead flies, so he developed a couple of sources for different plastic beads. Also check out his pattern pages as he has some pretty cool flies on there as well. I think you will enjoy doing business with him. I have been a happy customer for several years now. When he goes to conclaves his mother and father help man his booth. You will have a chance to meet him During the FFF Conclave in August as he is teaching a class there. He knows his stuff and if he is doing a program on warmwater fly fishing you should try to attend if possible. Usual disclaimers, I am just a happy customer.He carries unusual materials at very good prices. I know I always seem to drop another hundred bucks on tying materials each time I order or see him at the Southern Conclave each year.   Big Dale

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Bid D. writes: Some of those strange colored beads are available from Orvis, and knowing Dave I suspect that is where he got his. If you want to mail order some very cool ones check out the plastic ones from Mike Hogue at MWFlytying.com. He has two types of colored plastic beads available, one type sinks and the other type float. Once he bought his Sage 0 weight for bluegill fishing he found that it was too light to be able to use normal metal beadhead flies, so he developed a couple of sources for different plastic beads.

I’ve never seen colored beads at Orvis.  Of course I only go there to buy doggie beds, maple syrup, silk shirts and lamps.  <g  The Spirit River beads are metal, probably alluminum.  The colors are baked on enamel (or so the package says).  I’ve seen and used the plastic ones.  I believe I  also bought them at Hunter’s. Dave LaCourse

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Compliments of Google: http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/greenrockworm.htm

You can also tie it without the beadhead.  Just dub the head a dark brown and pull out some on the bottom for legs.

Does anyone know why that LaFontaine tie has such long hackle sticking out for legs?  I don’t get it. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

This is starting to sound a lot like a green-bodied GRHE.   The pattern on westfly.com has legs.   No legs on the LaPlac version? Joe F.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The LaFontaine version is a pretty good fly.  However, THE Green Rock Worm is as follows: Hook:  TMC 2487, size 12 – 16 Bead Head:  Gold, copper, green, black. Body:  V-rib or Larva Lace in the brightest green you can find (almost chartreause). Thorax:  Peacock herl. I sometimes build up the body with thread, making it narrow near the bend and wider near the thorax.  I then coat it with a sparkle polish.  This can be seen between the wraps of the Larva Lace and gives it some flash., Another  variation: Ribbing:  fine gold or copper wire. Body:  Bright green dubbing. You can also tie it without the beadhead.  Just dub the head a dark brown and pull out some on the bottom for legs. Dave LaCourse

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Charlie writes: I think that’s all LaPlac uses<g, I’m sure he’ll post his version. At the first clave I believe he gave away a set of what he said were the various ‘phases’ of the GRW, but I expect they were really just the same pattern tied over the course of a bottle of Stoli<g. — Charlie…

Not really.  Found three new patterns this spring, and they all worked as well. The flies I gave at the clave were all variations of caddis worms/larva/pupa, but not necessarily just the rock worm.  If I remember correctly, there was a grw, a couple of emergers, and a cased caddis.  The grw is a net builder, not a case builder. Dave LaCourse

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Joe F. This is starting to sound a lot like a green-bodied GRHE.   The pattern on westfly.com has legs.   No legs on the LaPlac version?

Normally, no.  But, the worm does have some legs up front, so without the bead head, pull out some of the dubbing to make it bushy.  Works for me……. Dave LaCourse

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Not really.  

I was just kidding. IIRC you included a sheet with some facts about each tie. Very nice. — Charlie…

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Peter Charles (Charlie’s understudy) writes: (snipped hilarity) Also look up GGW, "Green Grenade Warm"  and GTNTW "Green Dynamite Worm" for related ties. Recipe related to me by that famous practionner of the GRW, Louie LaPlac.

ROFL.  Wait until you see the Henry’s Ear (variation of the Hares Ear), the Black Rock Worm, and Henry’s Tail (variation of a PT).   Bring some streamer tying materials to the clave, Peter.  A fellow roffian gifted me with a book on Carrie Stevens and I would like to tie some streamers.  Great book, BTW. Hunter’s Angling has promised a copy for the Maine Clave raffle. Dave LaCourse

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The LaFontaine version is a pretty good fly.  However, THE Green Rock Worm is as follows:

One more question on this one.   You’re using white or light colored thread, yes?   I tied one with black thread & it sure didn’t look like much (duh).    Haven’t found chartreuse Larva Lace locally yet; I’m working with V-rib until I put in an order with H&H. (Maybe I’ll just wait and pick some up in Freeport, then tie ‘em up lakeside by lantern light.   Ah, the romance.) Joe F.

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Joe Fleischman writes: One more question on this one.   You’re using white or light colored thread, yes?   I tied one with black thread & it sure didn’t look like much (duh).   Haven’t found chartreuse Larva Lace locally yet; I’m working with V-rib until I put in an order with H&H. (Maybe I’ll just wait and pick some up in Freeport, then tie ‘em up lakeside by lantern light.   Ah, the romance.) Joe F.

I usually use green thread, but white or whatever should work, *except* black or any other dark color. When are you leaving for Moosehead?  I have your address, so I could send you some along with some larva lace.  No problem. Dave LaCourse

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Should have added, Joe:  Try tying it with dubbing and gold ribbing, with peacock herl at the thorax.  It actually works as well as the v-rib.  V-rib is easier to tie.   Let me know when you are leaving and I will get a CARE package off to you, including some dubbing. Dave LaCourse

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Should have added, Joe:  Try tying it with dubbing and gold ribbing, with peacock herl at the thorax.  It actually works as well as the v-rib.  V-rib is easier to tie.   Let me know when you are leaving and I will get a CARE package off to you, including some dubbing.

Actually, you offered that variation in a previous post.   I think I’m well covered for most of the ingredients except the larva lace.   I have beads in various sizes & colors, dubbing, gold thread, peacock herl, & hooks.   I didn’t spend $200, but I made a respectable dent in a C-note.  :-)   I picked up some Antron dubbing in a sparkle chartreuse that looks neat for the GRW, but I haven’t tied anything with it yet. Joe F.

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Joe, package is ready and will be in the mail tomorrow morning.  I’ve included a couple of different ties, plus two size 20 midges that I *hope* will float vertically.  At least that is the way I tied them to fload.  I have seen these small midges caught in the foam on the Rapid and have tied them from memory — but, I *am* an old geezer, so can’t say they’ll work.  Give ‘em a try and let me know.  Don’t cast them — dab them down-stream in small gentle riffle/current. Dave LaCourse

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One more question on this one.   You’re using white or light colored thread, yes?   I tied one with black thread & it sure didn’t look like much (duh).   Haven’t found chartreuse Larva Lace locally yet; I’m working with V-rib until I put in an order with H&H.

Couldn’t you use clear Larva Lace wrapped over chartreuse floss? Regards, Jeff

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jeff c. Yep.  But it doesn’t look very much like the natural.  The bright green larva lace or the dubbing ribbed mimics the natural. Dave LaCourse

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Should have added, Joe:  Try tying it with dubbing and gold ribbing, with peacock herl at the thorax.  It actually works as well as the v-rib.  V-rib is easier to tie.   Let me know when you are leaving and I will get a CARE package off to you, including some dubbing. Dave LaCourse

I’ve tied the BHGRW three different ways: using the bright green lace wo/rib, using a bright green floss under clear lace again sans rib, and using the same floss with a gold wire rib. Always a bead (sometimes brass, sometimes tungsten) and always peacock herl. daytripper (It’s all good! ;^)

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Joe, package is ready and will be in the mail tomorrow morning.  I’ve included a couple of different ties, plus two size 20 midges that I *hope* will float vertically.  At least that is the way I tied them to fload.  I have seen these small midges caught in the foam on the Rapid and have tied them from memory — but, I *am* an old geezer, so can’t say they’ll work.  Give ‘em a try and let me know.  Don’t cast them — dab them down-stream in small gentle riffle/current.

Thanks.   I’ll wait with much anticipation.   Joe F. (Just downloaded new newsgroup software & have no idea if this will appear correctly; but if so, I’ll finally be able to read ROFF at home.)

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Thanks.   I’ll wait with much anticipation.

I apologize for my roffian Grandpa Joe.  "fload" should be "float."  He may not be able to type worth a crap, but I’ll be damned if he can’t drive a car like all hell.  Just wish that lead foot would have found its way out to the clave. Actually I am replying because I really do have a question.  I tied up a dozen of these bad boys today and they didn’t exactly turn out quite like I hoped, but they are pretty damn neat.  My first problem was the I got the medium larva lace instead of small because it looked small enough. Second was that it is too light in color.  I mean this s.o.b. looks like some kind of radioactive glow stick!  Might work well like that, but my question is would changing to a more olive thread help tone it down a bit? Other question.  Where do you find those colored beads at?  The shops I go to only has black, brass, silver, copper and gold.  Is there a place to mail order these or something?  I really like those colored beads. The caddis is out and about over here so I plan on using a bunch of these during the clave.  I devoted this weekend to tying caddis and quit and moved on to other things out of boredom already.  I have been at the vise all day.  I did the caddis Herman tied, Dave’s GRW, X-caddis, Goddard caddis, and EHCs. Got a little bored so I moved on to humpies and now am at stimulators in size 12-16.  Just going crazy over here.  Even tied up a bunch of those tiny little things Willi tied for the fly swap.  Those were pretty fun and not all that difficult once you get used to the material.  The main problem with those is actually seeing them.  Thank god for that magnifier light I have and I even have 20/20+ vision! <g BTW, Joe you made it out of the fly shop easier than I did today.  I fell between you and Dave.  Nearly broke myself and the clave still hasn’t started. Oh well, bills can wait another month <g Warren X#-[

Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

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Thanks to Dave L’s reminder, I began looking through Deja News for intructions on tying the GRW (I’d have sworn it was posted here once before).   Couldn’t find it.   How do I tie this?   Or do you have to kill me if you tell me?  :-) Joe F.

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Thanks to Dave L’s reminder, I began looking through Deja News for intructions on tying the GRW (I’d have sworn it was posted here once before).   Couldn’t find it.   How do I tie this?   Or do you have to kill me if you tell me?  :-)

Compliments of Google: http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/greenrockworm.htm — Charlie…

Response:

Compliments of Google: http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/greenrockworm.htm

Yep, thanks.   I found that one as well as a few more, none of which seem to agree on any component material except maybe their color.   If there’s a "ROFF standard" version, tested and sworn to success by our numerous and talented field staff, I’d love to hear it.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

If there’s a "ROFF standard" version, tested and sworn to success by our numerous and talented field staff, I’d love to hear it.  :-)

I think that’s all LaPlac uses<g, I’m sure he’ll post his version. At the first clave I believe he gave away a set of what he said were the various ‘phases’ of the GRW, but I expect they were really just the same pattern tied over the course of a bottle of Stoli<g. — Charlie…

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Joe F. writes: Compliments of Google: http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/greenrockworm.htm Yep, thanks.   I found that one as well as a few more, none of which seem to agree on any component material except maybe their color.   If there’s a "ROFF standard" version, tested and sworn to success by our numerous and talented field staff, I’d love to hear it.  :-) Joe F.

The LaFontaine version is a pretty good fly.  However, THE Green Rock Worm is as follows: Hook:  TMC 2487, size 12 – 16 Bead Head:  Gold, copper, green, black. Body:  V-rib or Larva Lace in the brightest green you can find (almost chartreause). Thorax:  Peacock herl. I sometimes build up the body with thread, making it narrow near the bend and wider near the thorax.  I then coat it with a sparkle polish.  This can be seen between the wraps of the Larva Lace and gives it some flash., Another  variation: Ribbing:  fine gold or copper wire. Body:  Bright green dubbing. You can also tie it without the beadhead.  Just dub the head a dark brown and pull out some on the bottom for legs. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Yep, thanks.   I found that one as well as a few more, none of which seem to agree on any component material except maybe their color.   If there’s a "ROFF standard" version, tested and sworn to success by our numerous and talented field staff, I’d love to hear it.  :-) Joe F.

ROFF standard GRW. 3 lb. rock mashed up worm green paint XINK Take three or four big juicy worms, place them in a bowl, empty the contents of the XINK bottle into a bowl then mash worms and mix thoroughly.  Take a nice smooth rock, spray with flourescent green paint then when dry, spread the XINK soaked mashed worm all over it. Keep refridgerated. Instructions on use: Locate salmonid Throw rock at it. Stand by with net to scoop salmonid. If the rock misses the salmonid, remain vigilant as within a few moments, the toxic chemicals in XINK will undoutedly result in the demise of the salmonid.  Do not dispense with the the mashed worm as it aids in the distribution of the XINK.  The green paint allows the fisherman to locate his rock should he ever put it down amongst other rocks. Also look up GGW, "Green Grenade Warm"  and GTNTW "Green Dynamite Worm" for related ties. Recipe related to me by that famous practionner of the GRW, Louie LaPlac. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Question:

Just read an article in my local paper about the NY DEC stocker trucks dumping their annual loads of browns and bows into the local rivers. 8" one year olds and up to 16" two year olds. i welcome a discussion on this program. i’ve heard a lot of pros and cons on this issue. one point is that is provides a lot of fun (if you like to catch dumb stockers), and that fishing pressure neccesitates the stocking program. the counterpoint (which i agree with), is that the inferior stocker fish dilute the gene pool and compete with wild fish for food. the solution seems to be more no kill zones on rivers so the population is not deleted in a single season. i’ve seen this work on rivers in the west where i used to live, and the result was a healthy population of wild fish that were a little harder to catch, but worth the result. in the state of washington where i used to live, the state’s policy is put and take, and they spend millions of dollars and employ thousands of state workers to dump gujillions of fish into the state’s waters. in more enlightened states (MT for example), its been shown that reasonable management of wild fish can result in a plentiful and healthy population. personally i’m not crazy about catching trout with raw noses from living in such tight quarters in the breeding tanks. the wild fish are much healthier and prettier. comments and complaints please. stephen in ny

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As a fellow New Yorker, I pretty much concur with Stephen.  With the vast financial resources of NY State, I think the fishery can do a much better job. While I’m strongly in favor of better stream/river management–a la "no kill/artificial only" to help build healthier and more ‘wild’ trout bases, I also believe that keeping some ‘Put and Take’ spots is critical.  NY should continue to heavily stock parts of streams/rivers near significant population bases where young kids can still have an opportunity to catch fish with worms and bring ‘em home for dinner.   This is what gets kids interested in the outdoors.  Sooner or later they appreciate the ’sport’ of fly fishing, just like the rest of us did, and don’t have a need to keep everything.   For example, I live in the Albany area.  There’s a ton of chatter about state of the Battenkill.  I think the DEC should stock the stream with healthy browns, and then restrict the ENTIRE river in NY to catch and release/artificial only.  Over the next few years, assuming people don’t keep anything, this river ought to bounce back.  Most of the Battenkill winds through very rural areas, so there isn’t a huge population base thats really affected by the change in policy. At the same time, the DED should continue stocking the Kaydeross and Geyser Creeks, understanding that ninety percent of those fish are going to be fried for dinner. The Battenkill becomes the classic trout tream it once was, and the Kaydeross is the stream we all grew up with… My two cents, but NY, has large opportunities for improvement. Pete

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Question:

______  RW?  I want to talk to you at: — http://www.gink.com/chat If you are up.  I’m going there now. George

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Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them.  Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish?  They look like they would slip out.

Vern; This topic comes up every few weeks here.  If you do a Deja News search you can find quite a bit of discussion of it over the past year or so.  It seems that Ernie and I are the biggest fans of leader links.  I’ve used them for over fifteen years, as have a number of my friends.  I know of no case in which they have failed, except when they are so old that repeated dragging over rocks etc., has abraded them badly.  Of course, any knot used to attach a leader to the fly line would have fared just as badly. Like anything else, a leader link has a finite useable life.  But bearing that in mind they are very reliable, cheap, and easy to use, and should be more than adequate for anything less demanding than large salt water species.  I’ve personally caught quite a few steelhead and salmon while rigged with leader links and never had a problem. Someone else recently suggested knotting the ends of the leader and line together before reinserting them into the leader link.  This is unnecessary for most applications but can’t hurt if you can actually tie a knot small enough.

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Vern,    They are surprisingly strong.  The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot.  You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line.  Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing.  I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

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Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Vern,   They are surprisingly strong.  The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot.  You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line.  Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing.  I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

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John,    A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side,  You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side.  Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john

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ahhhh….those rascals……thanks….john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -John,   A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side, You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side.  Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john

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I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

Response:

going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt

Don, I wonder how many posts you are going to get like this one. You know, where your question is addressed but no advice given? Myself, I use the perfection not on both the butt section and the leader.  I like the way it forms the loop to loop as far as turn over goes.  Less likelihood of the ‘hinging effect.’ I do recall this question coming up a long time ago and I saved the question and all of the answers….course I lost a whole big file of stuff while learning some of the various functions of my computer.  And I don’t remember what the answer was….I think it had something to do with casting…in order to avoid the knots. I must have retained something on a subconscious level because it moved the knots down into the tippet section. All I know is that it’s a real pickle trying to flyfish with a short term

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Hi Don, I like to first needle nail knot a new tapered knotless monofilament leader directly to the end of my flyline. I am actually ’snelling’ on the leader. Then after I have used up all the taper by adding tippet material, I cut the leader at about 12 to 18 inches from the flyline and then attach another tapered leader. This gives me the same diameter and the same constancy of monofilament. You can shorten the new leader by cutting 12 to 18 inches from the butt before tying it on. This is not ‘thee way to do it’, but just another way to do it. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop http://www.kiene.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

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Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

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I use a nail knot to tie a butt to the leader and then I put a surgeons loop at the end of that.I use a loop to loop connection to attach the leader.I don’t like to use a loop connection to my tippet because I believe it will affect the ability of the leader to lay out straight.Art Lee recommends never using a loop anywhhere on your leader but using a uni-knot to connect which is easier to tie than a nail knot and serves the same function.I have switched to this knot and I haven’t had any problems.

Response:

Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

Hear, Hear!  I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else.  They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them.  They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need. Kevin

Response:

Hear, Hear!  I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else.  They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them.  They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need.

When I recommended leader links to a friend of mine in Idaho he turned up his nose at them. Said he was a "purist". I pointed out that he was using a graphite rod, a nylon leader, and a synthetic flyline. It turned out that the guy didn’t even know how to tie a nail knot or a needle knot. He had it done at the tackle shop. Sheesh! — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them.

Question:

 Sounds perfectly doable to me, and in fact ,easier than say kip or calf body. The bulk thing can be a problem with hair fibers and on small bugs the poly post is preferred. I use flats  only because of habit and the "natural" look.  I like the poly or  antron post because of the various colors one can use . Try a black post some time in  a white  foam line and you will literally_ see_ what I mean That’s what interesting about tying, not much is chiseled or even written in stone , you can do pretty much as you please. There are techniques that should be learned and practiced only because trial and error over time has shown them to be the "best" way.Once you master those, you can sub this for that and create things that work for _you_ …that’s the fun part.    Have at it ..;-)

Harry, that’s a great explanation on tying parachutes.  Your photographer should take a bow, too. BTW, I’ve always used an antron loop to form the post which I clip off the top when done, to form the wing.  Your method of tying off solved one of my problems; I’ll try it next time. Peter

Response:

There is a very interesting material called spiderweb.  Salmon and steelheaders who tie their own roe sacks from nylon netting use it to tie off their spawn bags.  Basically you just wrap it around and around and it somehow sticks to itself (so it says on the packaging).  It looks as thin as 8/0.  It would make a good tie off thread for parachute hackle where you finish the hackle on the post not on the hook shank.  I believe this is the product that Hans van Klinken was talking about in his article www.algonet.se/~sjostran/English/10035.htm Inspired by van Klinken’s method but not wanting to rely on this very specialized spiderweb material, lately I’ve been tying off the head and leaving the hackle (already secured to the post at a much earlier step) for the last step.  I anchor my thread onto the post near the bottom. Then wind the hackle down.  Then tie of with a series of half-hitches – each one I can manipulate as it tightens down (with the hooked end of my whip finisher) so that it doesn’t trap any hackle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

Response:

I use a slightly different technique, which results in a "flatter" hackle. I tie the post in as normal, tie the hackle in at the top of the thread on the post,  which is shorter than "normal", varnish the post with thin clear varnish, take three turns of hackle down the post, and then three turns back up through the hackle, I then wind the thread down through the hackle, binding the hackle down as I go, and just whip finish at the bottom of the post.  Using a needle from underneath, allow more thin varnish to soak into the windings. It also works with just four turns of hackle, two up, two down, and the hackle is then very flat with few stray fibres. ( I thought this might be what rw was referring to, when he said his hackles were too "bushy", meaning too spread out over the post length ). I have also done this around the base of normal split feather wings on dry flies without any problems.  I have not had one come undone while fishing yet. One must be careful here not to twist the wings too much when winding and finishing is all. I also often flatten the wings and hackle between my thumb and forefinger so that they are horizontal. This makes a great spinner pattern, with all the advantages of a parachute, and practically none of the disadvantages. This is especially good for larger flies where two turns of longish hackle are more than sufficient. The support given by a horizontal hackle is much greater than that given by a vertical hackle just sitting on its points. Works great. It is easier to do if you tilt the fly in the vice, as Hans suggests in his article about the Klinkhamer Special. But you can do it with the fly in the normal plane if you wish.  If your post is stiff enough, it is no trouble to wind through the hackle with ordinary 6/0 thread as you would on a normal fly. Makes a very robust fly, and there are more turns of hackle to support the fly where you need them, and not spread out over a longer length of the post. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://connor.via.t-online.de/

Response:

I’ve had a demonstration by Hans van Klinken at the last Flyfair, tying the Klinkhammer in the fashion as on the mentioned webpage. It looks a bit awkward when you first see it, but try it! It’s a lot easier than it looks, sure made my parachutes a lot better. The key feature of spiderweb is it’s elasticity. Tie on as tight as you dare (its really, really thin) and it it will pull snug on itself, locking the hackle in the process. I think you can try thin nylon as an alternative.  Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is a very interesting material called spiderweb.  Salmon and steelheaders who tie their own roe sacks from nylon netting use it to tie off their spawn bags.  Basically you just wrap it around and around and it somehow sticks to itself (so it says on the packaging).  It looks as thin as 8/0.  It would make a good tie off thread for parachute hackle where you finish the hackle on the post not on the hook shank.  I believe this is the product that Hans van Klinken was talking about in his article www.algonet.se/~sjostran/English/10035.htm Inspired by van Klinken’s method but not wanting to rely on this very specialized spiderweb material, lately I’ve been tying off the head and leaving the hackle (already secured to the post at a much earlier step) for the last step.  I anchor my thread onto the post near the bottom. Then wind the hackle down.  Then tie of with a series of half-hitches – each one I can manipulate as it tightens down (with the hooked end of my whip finisher) so that it doesn’t trap any hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ?

I was referring to the hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

If I get a chance I’ll upload a pic of the tye in area a bit later today……

  Take a look  : http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/5Aposthackle_tieinMA… Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? I was referring to the hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

  Some undersize the hackle by a hook size or so. I like that as well IMO, I think neck hackles are a better feather for a parachute because the barbs are stiffer, again IMO.  Being stiffer, they stay perpendicular to the post and do not "mesh"  with each other.A clean crisp look ,if you will. With this method you can tye in the hackle and the just leave it. After you apply the tail and dub the body including the head, you can then wrap the hackle and tye it off at the eye as a last step. What is clean about this is the fly is in essence done when you begin to wrap the hackle, you do not have to come back and dub the hackle tye down area after the hackle wraps. The last wraps are for the hackle .  The hackle will stand straight up alongside  the post and be out of the way more or less as you build the rest of the fly. Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

Response:

  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Response:

 I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome

The only comment I can think of is great job, very helpful instructions. — Charlie…

Response:

Harry,  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

I’m mightily impressed with that how-to!  This is how God intended fly patterns to be presented when He invented the Web. Anybody else putting patterns on the web:  Note that Harry’s raised the bar. Bravo. Wes Peterson Who would call himself "liberal," let him love justice. Let him love equality. Let him love compassion and charity. But let him love first, and above all the rest, Liberty.

Response:

  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

Very nice job Harry. Quality pictures well explained. TL MC

Response:

http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

Nice shots Harry. Who did your camera work? Someone with a lot of pateince? Do you usually hackle your flies before putting on the tail & dubbing. Seems to me I would have to move the hackle around too much & would have to be carefull not to bind the fibers down. Sol

Response:

http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Nice shots Harry. Who did your camera work? Someone with a lot of pateince? Do you usually hackle your flies before putting on the tail & dubbing. Seems to me I would have to move the hackle around too much & would have to be carefull not to bind the fibers down. Sol

  Thanks , Sol.  It’s just about the hackling method, not a pattern. For those that are just starting, seeing how can be much better than reading. Now if I can just find a way to show a blind pinch through my thumb I can tye a no hackle for the camera Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

Response:

Thanks Harry….that’s a fine piece of work. I have alot of novice tiers in my wintercourse who will be very gladto get the URL from me. This indeed wil make things clear for them and give ‘m the oppotunity to take a good look when they’re back home again! Very nice photographic work too! — Hans van der Stroom http://www.casema.net/~stroomh ICQ # 20196762 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Response:

 I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Those are magnificent pictures, Harry, and very lucid text.  But let me desecribe an alternative method and ask you what you think of it. I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

Response:

When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry?

Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately?

 I like separate wraps.I find that if you turn both at the same time they do not "seat" well , one turns or spins and the thing turns into a hay seed.    Bind in last of  the two hackles a bit above the prior one on the post . Turn ( wrap) the lower one first.  You do not need to tye it off per say just half hitch the first one at the eye. Wrap the second one down to the eye and tye off both of them . This is the same method you can use for multiple hackle drys like Sofa pillows  or  the like . The only difference is the hackle collar is on the hook, not a post. Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Response:

Hi RW, I also like the antron or poly yarn tied as per the last message. The professionally tied flies having the "nice thin" parachutes are probably the cause of the tier starting the wraps of hackle lower and giving you fewer wraps. I tend to tie still water flies sparsely and the rougher the water the fuller the hackling and tailing. I wrap both hackles at the same time. This works best if you don’t use hackle pliers and if you use maximum tension on the hackle. You will find the maximum but trial and error When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

– Vic Brockett http://home.earthlink.net/~vicbrockett

Response:

If I get a chance I’ll upload a pic of the tye in area a bit later today…… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? I like separate wraps.I find that if you turn both at the same time they do not "seat" well , one turns or spins and the thing turns into a hay seed.   Bind in last of  the two hackles a bit above the prior one on the post . Turn ( wrap) the lower one first.  You do not need to tye it off per say just half hitch the first one at the eye. Wrap the second one down to the eye and tye off both of them . This is the same method you can use for multiple hackle drys like Sofa pillows  or  the like . The only difference is the hackle collar is on the hook, not a post. Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Response:

One of those, *hey why didn’t I think of it before* ideas. There are some instances where the thick part on the back of the post is actually useful to build up bulk for a nice tapered body but I can definitely think of situations where I had wished it wasn’t there.  Thanks. Mu Young Lee Ann Arbor, MI USA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

Response:

  Sounds perfectly doable to me, and in fact ,easier than say kip or calf body. The bulk thing can be a problem with hair fibers and on small bugs the poly post is preferred. I use flats  only because of habit and the "natural" look.  I like the poly or  antron post because of the various colors one can use . Try a black post some time in  a white  foam line and you will literally_ see_ what I mean  That’s what interesting about tying, not much is chiseled or even written in stone , you can do pretty much as you please. There are techniques that should be learned and practiced only because trial and error over time has shown them to be the "best" way.Once you master those, you can sub this for that and create things that work for _you_ …that’s the fun part.    Have at it ..;-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome Harry Mason www.troutflies.com Those are magnificent pictures, Harry, and very lucid text.  But let me desecribe an alternative method and ask you what you think of it. I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

Response:

Question:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                            Tess

I had my navel pierced just before I got pregnant.  I was incredably lucky and didn’t have to remove my jewlery.  I should add thought that the reason i was able to elave the jewlery in was because…well as the guy who pierced it at Stainless Studios said my navel is" just plain weird!"  The truth of the matter is most women do indeed have to remove their jewlery, either because the jewlery will beging to migrate out, or becasue the streching causes micro tears in the healed piercing and those tears get infected.  If she does decide to take the piercing out as her belly gets bigger, she can take comfort int he fact that, if the piercing is well healed, there is a chance that the hole will not close entierly and instead of her having to have it re-pierced after her pregnancy, she could simply have it streched back up to whatever size the current jewlery is. Hope that was helpful. Ashen. P.S.  this is a little O.T. but if you live near a place with a "Body Shop" you should head in there and buy her a few COco-butter sticks….have her rub that in her tummy, thighs, butt and brests and it will really help reduce the amount of strechmarks she receives. Trust me those sticks are a god send!!

Response:

Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced

and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things.

Well, it depends on a number of things. In most cases it is better to remove the jewelry. The ring can cause damage to the piercing area has the body grows. The other problem is that if she is planning a hospital birth more than likely, they will give her clotting agents that will react to the metal the ring is made of. If she is concerned about losing the piercing she may consider using "fishing line" aka Monofilament nylon line which will tend to be a little more fexible then a ring and will not react to the clotting agents. — http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/9352

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Well, I posed that same question about 2-3 months ago when I found out I was pregnant. The info I got said that most people end up taking the jewelery out at about 6 months or so.  A few people posted that they were able to keep the original jewelery for the entire pregnancy. For me, at about 15 weeks, my belly button was shallow enough for the pierce to look pretty much like a surface pierce.  The top hole was getting sore and red and the ring was sticking out a great deal.  I was finding it exceedingly uncomfortable (especially when I started breaking out the panel pant which put the waistband of my pants above my navel. The pants would rub the ring when I walked and it was not a happy time for my navel. I had a choice of trying a barbell, fishing line or taking the jewelery out. I decided against a barbell because my navel was shallow as it was and I figured that the balls would probably start to dig in fairly soon.  I also didn’t really want to take the jewelery out without trying to keep it. So, I went to the hardware store to see if I could find fishing line that was close to the same gauge as my ring.  And the fishing line was all really tiny in comparison.  So, I bought a weed whacker line that’s close in gauge.  I cut a piece of the weed whacker line about 2mm longer than the length of the pierce and slid that puppy in.  So far, it’s been fine and I’m at 19 weeks.  The redness went away and the "retainer" isn’t bothersome in the least. My navel was pierced over a year ago and was totally healed when I got pregnant.  I would -not- suggest putting non-autoclaved weedwhacker line in just any navel, but it is working out for me, YMMV.  It’s plastic so it’s more flexible than a barbell.  And the pierce is tight enough for it to stay in place. It looks like I have a piece of uncooked spaghetti in there now though. electric. — please remove id. from the return addy to email electric.

Response:

Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

They didn’t ask me to remove my rings, or my piercing jewlery….they did say though that if i had any vaginal piercings i would have to remove those.  At the time I did not, so there was not problem. Ashen.

Response:

someone mentioned the cocoa butter sticks, they sell them at walgreens too (probably also other pharmacies), i think they’re palmer brand (the brand that makes all the cocoa butter stuff) good luck stephanie Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

– My Page: http://www.princeton.edu/~saobodda Best Radio Station: http://listen.to/wprb For Sale: http://auctions.yahoo.com/user/stephanieauryn "Don’t damn me when I speak a piece of mind ‘Cause silence isn’t golden when I’m holding it inside." -Guns and Roses

Response:

Question:

Peter, I was reading a recent post of yours and I thought you could be of help.  I am planning a trip to Vietnam and I would like to visit sometime between Nov-February, depending on how I can best schedule my frequent flyer.  I am a male, age 32 and I’ll be traveling alone.  I am in very good physical condition (run, swim everday).  I have traveled worked and traveled in Asia, but I have never been to Vietnam.  I wonder if you could review some interaries I downloaded from Sobek travel and give me your impresssions–are both of these itineraries great, or do they include stops that you might avoid?  I probably need to pick some highlights from each, so what would you choose? If we put a cultural excursion on one end of the scale and adventure on the other, I want something closer to the adventure.  While I like to see temples, pagodas, etc., I don’t need to go out of my way to find them.  I would rather make a very hard hike than spend a day touring churches.  This isn’t to say that I want to avoid the cultural part of the trip.  I must see some of the war museums, for example. I will probably have only two weeks in Vietnam.  I certainly can’t see everything I would like.  I want  good taste of the cities and the French colonial architecture, the war museums (and a feeling for the war legacy in general), and nightlife.  I am also attacted to the floating villages I’ve heard about, and especially the kayaking described in the Sobek interary that takes you through sea caves only accessible by kayak. Is it worthwhile to tour both Saigon and Hanoi in this short time frame?  I’ve heard that Hanoi has more engaging architecture.  If you had to pick only one city to visit which would it be?  Is a side trip to Ankor Wat worth giving up a few days in Vietnam?  Is it difficult to find a canoe or kayak without a tour group? I apologize for what is a message with too little focus, but I hope you have some impressions that you can share.  Below I have listed two separate itineraries–any insights would be greatly appreciated. Intinerary #1: ITINERARY                                      Day 1 — Leave your home town and fly to Hanoi, Vietnam (your                                      air itinerary will be coordinated by a member of the Mountain                                      Travel – Sobek Air Desk).                                      Day 2 — En route.                                      Day 3 — Arrive in Hanoi in the afternoon. You will be met at the                                      airport and transferred to your hotel for a rest after your long                                      journey. The remainder of the day is free to rest, relax, or                                      explore on your own. Hanoi is a picturesque city of more than a                                      million people. Its tree shaded streets are filled with lovely                                      examples of French colonial architecture. Our hotel is situated                                      on one of the narrow bustling streets of the ancient commercial                                      quarter. Welcome dinner and orientation.                                      Day 4 — Today we will have a full day tour of Hanoi. We will                                      visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, the Temple of Literature,                                      and Fine Arts Museum, where we see displays of tools and                                      costumes of the ethnic minorities of Vietnam, plus some                                      classical and modern art. We’ll wander the downtown area,                                      visiting the colorful Hanoi market and the market district,                                      where each street hosts vendors of a particular trade: metal                                      workers, funerary wreaths, and electronics. Dinner on your own.                                      After dinner we’ll attend a Vietnamese folk performance of the                                      water puppets.                                      Day 5 — Travel to Bai Chai by van. Lunch in one of the many                                      restaurants along the beach. In the afternoon we take a ferry to                                      Hon Gai, a busy fishing port set in a beautiful natural harbor. We                                      spend the night in a hotel overlooking the expanse of Ha Long                                      Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and enjoy dinner at one of                                      the local seafood restaurants.                                      Day 6 — In the morning we board our support vessel, a                                      traditional wooden boat, and after a seafood lunch head for the                                      eastern edge of Ha Long Bay. We arrive at a beautiful beach                                      where we have lunch and set up camp. In the afternoon the                                      guides will teach paddling techniques and rescue procedures.                                      Day 7 — We spend the day exploring an island group known as                                      the Medusa. Conditions permitting, we skirt the exposed side of                                      the group with its sea caves and arches.                                      Day 8 — In the morning we follow a string of islands, taking our                                      time to stop at shell beaches, small sea caves, and hidden coves.                                      After lunch we navigate a maze of limestone islets rising                                      vertically from the depths of the sea. By late afternoon we arrive                                      at a beach where we set up our camp.                                      Day 9 — We choose a previously unexplored route through                                      several island groups, and arrive at a beach with a tiny temple                                      nestled among stone pillars. After setting up camp near the                                      temple, we join local fishermen at moonrise as they make                                      offerings to the deities of the sea. If conditions are favorable, we                                      undertake a moonlight paddle.                                      Day 10 — An opening in one of the sheer rock walls of an island                                      near our campsite leads us to an intricate labyrinth of tunnels                                      and hidden lagoons. Then we follow the serpentine coastline to                                      the exposed side of this island. The afternoon is free for relaxing,                                      swimming, fishing, or exploration in small groups. Return to                                      camp in the evening.                                      Day 11 — En route to Cat Ba Island we paddle through rock                                      gardens and along coral beaches. Upon our arrival, we have time                                      to experience the bustling fishing port of Cat Ba, where we can                                      take a woven bamboo boat to tour the harbor. In the evening we                                      compete with local fishermen in their favorite pastime —                                      karaoke! We spend the night in a hotel.                                      Day 12 — We travel first by kayak and then aboard our support                                      vessel to Tuan Chau Island. This charming place with its French                                      colonial architecture is of particular historical significance                                      because it was the favorite retreat of Ho Chi Minh. We spend the                                      night in one of its old French villas. (The accommodation is                                      basic but evokes nostalgia for a bygone era.)                                      Day 13 — After a morning paddle we visit some legendary                                      grottos, such as "Hang Dau Go" and "Hang Bo Nau." We return                                      to Bai Chai where we celebrate our successful navigation of Ha                                      Long Bay in a local restaurant. Overnight at hotel.                                      Day 14 — Return to Hanoi by van. Farewell banquet in the                                      evening at the traditional Indochine restaurant. Overnight in                                      Hanoi. Itinerary #2 ITINERARY                                      Day 1 — Leave your home town and fly to Ho Chi Minh City                                      (Saigon), Vietnam, via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong (your                                      air itinerary will be coordinated by a member of the Mountain                                      Travel – Sobek Air Desk).                                      Day 2 — En route.                                      Day 3 — HO CHI MINH CITY. Arrive in Ho Chi Minh City. You                                      will be met by a member of the Mountain Travel – Sobek staff                                      outside the customs and immigration area at the airport. This                                      representative will answer questions, brief you on the immediate                                      arrangements, and escort you to your hotel. We will meet this                                      evening for a welcome dinner and briefing. Overnight at the                                      hotel.

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Response:

Peter, I was reading a recent post of yours and I thought you could be of help.  I am planning a trip to Vietnam and I would like to visit sometime between Nov-February, depending on how I can best schedule my frequent flyer.  I am a male, age 32 and I’ll be traveling alone.  I am in very good physical condition (run, swim everday).  I have traveled worked and traveled in Asia, but I have never been to Vietnam.  I wonder if you could review some interaries I downloaded from Sobek travel and give me your impresssions–are both of these itineraries great, or do they include stops that you might avoid?  I probably need to pick some highlights from each, so what would you choose? If we put a cultural excursion on one end of the scale and adventure on the other, I want something closer to the adventure.  While I like to see temples, pagodas, etc., I don’t need to go out of my way to find them.  I would rather make a very hard hike than spend a day touring churches.  This isn’t to say that I want to avoid the cultural part of the trip.  I must see some of the war museums, for example. I will probably have only two weeks in Vietnam.  I certainly can’t see everything I would like.  I want  good taste of the cities and the French colonial architecture, the war museums (and a feeling for the war legacy in general), and nightlife.  I am also attacted to the floating villages I’ve heard about, and especially the kayaking described in the Sobek interary that takes you through sea caves only accessible by kayak. Is it worthwhile to tour both Saigon and Hanoi in this short time frame?  I’ve heard that Hanoi has more engaging architecture.  If you had to pick only one city to visit which would it be?  Is a side trip to Ankor Wat worth giving up a few days in Vietnam?  Is it difficult to find a canoe or kayak without a tour group? I apologize for what is a message with too little focus, but I hope you have some impressions that you can share.  Below I have listed two separate itineraries–any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doug Intinerary #1: ITINERARY                                      Day 1 — Leave your home town and fly to Hanoi, Vietnam (your                                      air itinerary will be coordinated by a member of the Mountain                                      Travel – Sobek Air Desk).                                      Day 2 — En route.                                      Day 3 — Arrive in Hanoi in the afternoon. You will be met at the                                      airport and transferred to your hotel for a rest after your long                                      journey. The remainder of the day is free to rest, relax, or                                      explore on your own. Hanoi is a picturesque city of more than a                                      million people. Its tree shaded streets are filled with lovely                                      examples of French colonial architecture. Our hotel is situated                                      on one of the narrow bustling streets of the ancient commercial                                      quarter. Welcome dinner and orientation.                                      Day 4 — Today we will have a full day tour of Hanoi. We will                                      visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, the Temple of Literature,                                      and Fine Arts Museum, where we see displays of tools and                                      costumes of the ethnic minorities of Vietnam, plus some                                      classical and modern art. We’ll wander the downtown area,                                      visiting the colorful Hanoi market and the market district,                                      where each street hosts vendors of a particular trade: metal                                      workers, funerary wreaths, and electronics. Dinner on your own.                                      After dinner we’ll attend a Vietnamese folk performance of the                                      water puppets.                                      Day 5 — Travel to Bai Chai by van. Lunch in one of the many                                      restaurants along the beach. In the afternoon we take a ferry to                                      Hon Gai, a busy fishing port set in a beautiful natural harbor. We                                      spend the night in a hotel overlooking the expanse of Ha Long                                      Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and enjoy dinner at one of                                      the local seafood restaurants.                                      Day 6 — In the morning we board our support vessel, a                                      traditional wooden boat, and after a seafood lunch head for the                                      eastern edge of Ha Long Bay. We arrive at a beautiful beach                                      where we have lunch and set up camp. In the afternoon the                                      guides will teach paddling techniques and rescue procedures.                                      Day 7 — We spend the day exploring an island group known as                                      the Medusa. Conditions permitting, we skirt the exposed side of                                      the group with its sea caves and arches.                                      Day 8 — In the morning we follow a string of islands, taking our                                      time to stop at shell beaches, small sea caves, and hidden coves.                                      After lunch we navigate a maze of limestone islets rising                                      vertically from the depths of the sea. By late afternoon we arrive                                      at a beach where we set up our camp.                                      Day 9 — We choose a previously unexplored route through                                      several island groups, and arrive at a beach with a tiny temple                                      nestled among stone pillars. After setting up camp near the                                      temple, we join local fishermen at moonrise as they make                                      offerings to the deities of the sea. If conditions are favorable, we                                      undertake a moonlight paddle.                                      Day 10 — An opening in one of the sheer rock walls of an island                                      near our campsite leads us to an intricate labyrinth of tunnels                                      and hidden lagoons. Then we follow the serpentine coastline to                                      the exposed side of this island. The afternoon is free for relaxing,                                      swimming, fishing, or exploration in small groups. Return to                                      camp in the evening.                                      Day 11 — En route to Cat Ba Island we paddle through rock                                      gardens and along coral beaches. Upon our arrival, we have time                                      to experience the bustling fishing port of Cat Ba, where we can                                      take a woven bamboo boat to tour the harbor. In the evening we                                      compete with local fishermen in their favorite pastime —                                      karaoke! We spend the night in a hotel.                                      Day 12 — We travel first by kayak and then aboard our support                                      vessel to Tuan Chau Island. This charming place with its French                                      colonial architecture is of particular historical significance                                      because it was the favorite retreat of Ho Chi Minh. We spend the                                      night in one of its old French villas. (The accommodation is                                      basic but evokes nostalgia for a bygone era.)                                      Day 13 — After a morning paddle we visit some legendary                                      grottos, such as "Hang Dau Go" and "Hang Bo Nau." We return                                      to Bai Chai where we celebrate our successful navigation of Ha                                      Long Bay in a local restaurant. Overnight at hotel.                                      Day 14 — Return to Hanoi by van. Farewell banquet in the                                      evening at the traditional Indochine restaurant. Overnight in                                      Hanoi. Itinerary #2 ITINERARY                                      Day 1 — Leave your home town and fly to Ho Chi Minh City                                      (Saigon), Vietnam, via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong (your                                      air itinerary will be coordinated by a member of the Mountain                                      Travel – Sobek Air Desk).                                      Day 2 — En route.                                      Day 3 — HO CHI MINH CITY. Arrive in Ho Chi Minh City. You                                      will be met by a member of the Mountain Travel – Sobek staff                                      outside the customs and immigration area at the airport. This                                      representative will answer questions, brief you on the immediate                                      arrangements, and escort you to your hotel. We will meet this                                      evening for a welcome dinner and briefing. Overnight at the

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Question:

The Entomological Society of America sells various slide libraries for eductatinal purposes. I am sure they would include aquatic insects. You — Tim Lysyk http://www.agt.net/public/cnangler/html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am searching for individuals or company that has 35mm slides of aquatic insects of high quality.  These slides will be used in educational and

Response:

I am searching for individuals or company that has 35mm slides of aquatic insects of high quality.  These slides will be used in educational and

There is a fellow in Colorado Springs that has a bug identification company. Can’t remember the address. Might try web search..Yahoo…entomology. I’ve got links to Mayfly Central on my web site which is at Purdue University. Might alos try contacting some of the other sites I have listed.If you e-mail them they might have something for you. My web page is http://www.commonlink.com/~Midwestflytying — Visit my web site:http://www.commonlink.com/~Midwestflytying

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I am searching for individuals or company that has 35mm slides of aquatic insects of high quality.  These slides will be used in educational and

Response:

Question:

Mike:   The best Fly rods I use here in Oregon aren’t Sage or Orvis. I feel the best buy is either a Diamondback (Stowe, VT) or a Powell Rod (Chico,CA). Both of these rods can be purchased from $325 to $385 and the warranties are great… Ralph Glazier South Fork Fly Fishing Alsea, OR.

Response:

I recently aquired a fly rod in an aluminum case. The rod is in a cloth case that has the name Lyon and Caulson, Buffalo NY. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about this rod or if the company is still in buisness. I don’t fish, so I’d like to get rid of it if anyone is interested. The rod appears to be in perfect shape. It has "Regent #103" just above the handle. If anyone knows anything about it or is interested in it please E-Mail me. Thanks. Rob

Response:

Question:

I’d like to apologize to Mark for flaming him.  That was not my intent!  My intent was to poke a little fun at elitist dry fly fishermen who look down on nymphing.  BTW my perferred method of fishing is with a dry fly or emerger, but only when it is effective, most of the time it’s just not as effective as nymphing.  IMO nymphing in many ways is more challenging than dry fly fishing.   For example dead drift is every bit as important to nymphing as with a dry fly presentation but tougher due to the differential current speeds from surface to stream bottom.

Response:

Keywords: I got  e-mail in response to a previous post  and I thought I’d share it with the group. Mark Writes in response to my post below: For nymphs fished dead drift I always use long leaders, indicators and lead. when you say "indicators", are you referring to "bobbers"? i.e. Little things that float around and bounce up and down when a fish bites.                           Mark

Yes Mark that’s exactly what I mean and with no apologies.  Except for sight nymphing where you can see both the fish and the nymph at the same time, its almost impossible to see the take by watching your line (another little thing that floats around and bounces up and down when a fish bites).   Even with an indicator experienced fisheman miss at least 50% of the takes.  This experience comes from years of fishing to sighted fish with partners, where one partner spots for the other.   Frequently, when I’m up on a bank with a good angle, I’ve watched the trout we’re hunting inhale the nymph with no movement in the line leader or indicator.  A nymphing trout’s take is very subtle.  They suck the nymph and almost as quickly blow it back out again if you don’t set the hook. So Mark if you can’t stomache using a bobber or indicator, then just sit back and continue to be   self satisfied catching only the trout dumb enough to hook themselves (Usually the smaller ones who have to dart in from the side.), then by all means continue.   I’ll just have to take my satisfaction from success on the water, knowing deep down inside that somehow I’m just not the fisherman I could be if I could only loose my dependence on those bobbers! Just in case anyone out there thinks I’m serious.  I don’t know a single nymph fisherman, whose opinion I respect, who doesn’t use indicators ( that includes Andre Puyans, Mike Lawson, Lamb, etc.).  I vary the type of indicator to the conditions I’m fishing.   In fast water I use Marks bobbers to set the depth of float as much as anything.  In fast water the line drag usually sets the hook sets the hook before you’ll see the indicator move or pause.  In glass smooth gin clear water I use either a little silicon on the leader or a small tuft of yarn.  But what the heck it’s all bobber fishing right Mark.

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