Question:
Nifty little 5 oz flask packadged with bottles of Cutty Sark for holiday giving. Keep the flask, slap a bow on the Cutty Sark and give it to your brother-in-law. Or keep the Cutty Sark and use it to cut Carolan’s Irish Creme 50/50 (that stuffs too sweet and sticky to drink by itself, but no use adding the good stuff to it). Or use the Cutty Sark to clean your pipe collection. Flask is stainless steel with a charcoal finish, hinged cap keeper, lovingly hand-crafted in far-off and exotic China. The healthful benefits of having a wee nip to keep away the dew while flyfishing cannot be overstressed, and of course, it is unethical to bring a fine fish to hand without toasting his merry health afterwards. And, as is well known, purported "flyfishermen" who drink beer, are actually closet bait-fisherman who are afraid to touch worms. Anyway, nice little flask, it would look really fine with some MacCallan or Famous Grouse in it. Timothy Juvenal
Response:
And, as is well known, purported "flyfishermen" who drink beer, are actually closet bait-fisherman who are afraid to touch worms.
good post. many will agree. wayno, courageous even though ominous rumblings are heard from the direction of chambana, illiniville…
Response:
And, as is well known, purported "flyfishermen" who drink beer, are actually closet bait-fisherman who are afraid to touch worms. good post. many will agree. wayno, courageous even though ominous rumblings are heard from the direction of chambana, illiniville…
Well, here’s one beer drinking flyfisher who ain’t afeared to touch worms. Had a lot of fun at a couple of ROFFian claves feeding them to scotch drinkers who may have had one glass too many. :) Wolfgang no pictures please!
Response:
"Wolfgang" wrote … Well, here’s one beer drinking flyfisher who ain’t afeared to touch worms. Had a lot of fun at a couple of ROFFian claves feeding them to scotch drinkers who may have had one glass too many. :)
Ahh, it seems beer has indeed impaired your thinking: 1. No such thing as too much Scotch. 2. Tequilla drinkers are the ones you have to watch out for around the worms. And of course, watch out for those Saki drinkers around cut bait. 8^)
Timothy Juvenal
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Question:
Michael, I think this group has determined that fly size is more important than color. Of course presentation is important but that is not a characteristic of the fly. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What do you think?? We need a good, ON-TOPIC bloodbath on this group, and we haven’t had one in quite a while. Michael Roegner
Response:
Dave, I would rather have a glass of beer. We know that colors darken when wet, and that the fish is usually looking at a back lighted object. We are not certain what light spectrum the fish sees. The impression the fly makes when sitting on the water or trapped bubbles on a rising insect are probably more important than the exact shade of the insect. The more you know about the insect the more likely you are to tie a good imitation. The beer is handy for sipping while tying. The real test of the fly will come when you present it to the fish. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I guess that from a lot of posts on here lately (thanks for all the great info) that I should include a glass of water at my bench when I tie. And a specimen of the fly itself. Dave
Response:
I would use a photo, the colors of bugs disappear in minutes after death. I guess that from a lot of posts on here lately (thanks for all the great info) that I should include a glass of water at my bench when I tie. And a specimen of the fly itself. Dave "M
Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com
Response:
Dale – You’re not nuts at all, although I suspect that the reason why they turn the color of the rocks doesn’t really derive from the "rocks they eat".
I was wondering if anyone would else would comment on this. This conjured up the image of some robotic like insects chewing up rocks. That having been said – I’m going to drop a pretty major bombshell here in the hopes of sparking some discussion. I have found that precise pattern, precise coloration, etc., is generally pointless in most (if not all) flyfishing. What I’ve generally found is that just about ANY fairly representative pattern will catch as many, and as large, fish as the most perfectly colored, precisely matched pattern.
I’ve brought this topic up in the past and not much interest was generated. In fact one poster said he couldn’t think of anything more boring. (I guess talking about someone’s underwear etc. has more interest to this person) I pretty much agree with you. Presentation is where it’s at. Fly size however, is VERY important. Pattern type is next i.e.. up wing, down wing, emerger, etc. Color is not very important. An exception to this is with heavily fished C&R waters, especially in tailwaters with their limited range of insect types. Some fish in these places can become hyperselective to pattern and color. This is just one of the peculiarities these fish exhibit. What does make a difference? Presentation is a major issue, being careful not to spook the fish, observation of their feeding patterns, ability to spot fish, knowledge of where they’re likely to hold, and patience. If you cover those items, you’ll usually find that you can catch fish just fine with a pattern that doesn’t do such a precise job of matching the naturals.
My advice to new anglers is to spend less time on changing flies and more time on making a good presentation. Stalk a fish to get closer, change position, make more or different mends, change tippet length or size, add or remove weight etc. etc. etc. Correct presentation is a very broad and complex topic. It’s the most difficult of the skills in flyfishing. I have a theory about all this – the myth that you have to match the naturals so precisely was created primarily to catch FISHERMEN rather than FISH. And it has worked well, primarily because its always easier to tell yourself that "If I only had color X, or pattern Y, I’d be catching fish" than it is to recognize that your own skills are what need improvement.
I also think that searching for the "perfect" fly is futile. I’ve never run into the situation where there was a "right" fly although some other posters here swear they have been in this situation. I fish mainly a range of different styles of flies in a range of sizes rather than specific patterns. I probably use about 4 different styles 90% of the time. Willi
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Some may think I’m nuts about this also, but I think some of the color of the bugs is determined by the color of rocks they eat.
Bugs eat rocks? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)
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Good points Ernie and Harry, and some of the best looking dry fly’s on the water IMHO that I tie are Compara-dun’s out of "Compara-hatch" booklet by Caucci/Nasatsi. Easier to tie than the traditional ones for me, what is the consensus on compare vs. traditional here, besides the traditional might be better on slower water?
I like Compara dun style better for slower water. I especially like them using CDC for the wing instead of deer. It’s my usual choice for mayfly feeding fish on flat water. They can also be changed to an emerger at streamside by flattening the wing along the back. You can fish them dry, damp or wet. Versital fly. Willi
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How many feathers do you use for the wing ? What kind of tailing, now that I’m ask a million questions.;-) I like this pattern as well but it floats for only a short period, in my experence. I think the tailing is very important with slow water bugs and CDC. I like Compara dun style better for slower water. I especially like them using CDC for the wing instead of deer. It’s my usual choice for mayfly feeding fish on flat water. They can also be changed to an emerger at streamside by flattening the wing along the back. You can fish them dry, damp or wet. Versital fly. Willi
Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On those that I’ve examined, the thorax is sort of a cream with dun mixed in and the abdomen is an olive with rust and the wings definitely a medium to dark dun. Like I’ve always said, nothing in nature is monotone… it’s always a mixture of colors and that’s why the best dubbing is blended from different materials and colors. You never get exact matches and day-to-day, you’ll find the naturals in differing shades, depending on the weather, natural lighting conditions, time of day they hatch and other variables. Also keep in mind, the color of your imitation is influenced by reflected light, how wet the materials get and other factors as well, so what comes off the vise is likely to look drastically different when it’s on the water….. and especailly when it’s viewed from beneath the water by a creature with a highly different vision system. Others? Larry #:)#
______ You make an excellent point Larry and its the same one I’ve offered for many years. The wise fly tier will always "test-dress" a bit of sample dubbing or a fly at the fly tying bench with the fly dressing of their choice. There is no sense in having a Light Cahill turning into a Dark Cahill after it gets wet beyond the desired shade required. Of course my favorite choice shows the shade changes perfectly because it duplicates how the fly will look on the water to a finicky trout, and lets face it, there are more and more finicky, experienced, trout then ever before. Again Larry, I agree with you. If it isn’t perfect at the bench, it won’t be perfect astream. Mr.G.
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Some may think I’m nuts about this also, but I think some of the color of the bugs is determined by the color of rocks they eat. For an example if the rocks are primaily granite their main color might take on a light pink effect as well as all the other colors. Big Dale
Response:
Dale – You’re not nuts at all, although I suspect that the reason why they turn the color of the rocks doesn’t really derive from the "rocks they eat". I would expect that it has more to do with protective coloration – an insect has a much better chance of surviving to reproduce if their predators can’t pick them out against the background colors. That having been said – I’m going to drop a pretty major bombshell here in the hopes of sparking some discussion. I have found that precise pattern, precise coloration, etc., is generally pointless in most (if not all) flyfishing. What I’ve generally found is that just about ANY fairly representative pattern will catch as many, and as large, fish as the most perfectly colored, precisely matched pattern. This is an area of special interest for me, and I frequently test it by switching patterns to a off-color or more general pattern while my buddies obsess on "matching the hatch". There doesn’t seem to be any difference at all. What does make a difference? Presentation is a major issue, being careful not to spook the fish, observation of their feeding patterns, ability to spot fish, knowledge of where they’re likely to hold, and patience. If you cover those items, you’ll usually find that you can catch fish just fine with a pattern that doesn’t do such a precise job of matching the naturals. I have a theory about all this – the myth that you have to match the naturals so precisely was created primarily to catch FISHERMEN rather than FISH. And it has worked well, primarily because its always easier to tell yourself that "If I only had color X, or pattern Y, I’d be catching fish" than it is to recognize that your own skills are what need improvement. What do you think?? We need a good, ON-TOPIC bloodbath on this group, and we haven’t had one in quite a while. Michael Roegner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Some may think I’m nuts about this also, but I think some of the color of the bugs is determined by the color of rocks they eat. For an example if the rocks are primaily granite their main color might take on a light pink effect as well as all the other colors. Big Dale
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… What do you think??
I’ll pull out the weasel words on this one. While I tend to agree most of the time, I’ve been in situations, rarely, where a precise match would catch fish and no other fly would. I don’t remember the name of the stream but it’s just outside Jackson, WY. One of the toughest places I’ve ever fished. They were taking Callibaetis spinners and that was IT. Another data point is fishing Joe’s Hoppers on Slough Creek. So long as the fly was whole I had no trouble catching those big, dumb cutts but as soon as the turkey wing got just the least bit separated it was like turning off the lights. Put on a new hopper and the lights come back on. — Ken Fortenberry
Response:
I guess that from a lot of posts on here lately (thanks for all the great info) that I should include a glass of water at my bench when I tie. And a specimen of the fly itself. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On those that I’ve examined, the thorax is sort of a cream with dun mixed in and the abdomen is an olive with rust and the wings definitely a medium to dark dun. Like I’ve always said, nothing in nature is monotone… it’s always a mixture of colors and that’s why the best dubbing is blended from different materials and colors. You never get exact matches and day-to-day, you’ll find the naturals in differing shades, depending on the weather, natural lighting conditions, time of day they hatch and other variables. Also keep in mind, the color of your imitation is influenced by reflected light, how wet the materials get and other factors as well, so what comes off the vise is likely to look drastically different when it’s on the water….. and especailly when it’s viewed from beneath the water by a creature with a highly different vision system. Others? Larry #:)# ______ You make an excellent point Larry and its the same one I’ve offered for many years. The wise fly tier will always "test-dress" a bit of sample dubbing or a fly at the fly tying bench with the fly dressing of their choice. There is no sense in having a Light Cahill turning into a Dark Cahill after it gets wet beyond the desired shade required. Of course my favorite choice shows the shade changes perfectly because it duplicates how the fly will look on the water to a finicky trout, and lets face it, there are more and more finicky, experienced, trout then ever before. Again Larry, I agree with you. If it isn’t perfect at the bench, it won’t be perfect astream. Mr.G.
Response:
Good points Ernie and Harry, and some of the best looking dry fly’s on the water IMHO that I tie are Compara-dun’s out of "Compara-hatch" booklet by Caucci/Nasatsi. Easier to tie than the traditional ones for me, what is the consensus on compare vs. traditional here, besides the traditional might be better on slower water? Dave (Harry great photo’s on your site) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would use a photo, the colors of bugs disappear in minutes after death. I guess that from a lot of posts on here lately (thanks for all the great info) that I should include a glass of water at my bench when I tie. And a specimen of the fly itself. Dave "M Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com
Response:
On those that I’ve examined, the thorax is sort of a cream with dun mixed in and the abdomen is an olive with rust and the wings definitely a medium to dark dun. Like I’ve always said, nothing in nature is monotone… it’s always a mixture of colors and that’s why the best dubbing is blended from different materials and colors. You never get exact matches and day-to-day, you’ll find the naturals in differing shades, depending on the weather, natural lighting conditions, time of day they hatch and other variables. Also keep in mind, the color of your imitation is influenced by reflected light, how wet the materials get and other factors as well, so what comes off the vise is likely to look drastically different when it’s on the water….. and especailly when it’s viewed from beneath the water by a creature with a highly different vision system. Others? Larry #:)#
Response:
______ Dear Pete: I suppose, one of the main flies in my arsenal is indeed various sizes of the "Blue Winged Olive Dun." In fact, the majority of my finest flies that I tie are from the exact patterns as described in Ernie Scwiebert’s masterful work, "Matching The Hatch." I personally think no fly fisherman would find themselves wanting on any stream in the United States if he tied up a half dozen of every fly in this magnificent book. It is the base of my entire fly collection that I carry in my vest for the last 44 years! The Blue Winged Olive Duns along with the Iron Duns are perhaps the mainstay of a starting line on most streams, early in the season, especially the Iron Blue Dun on a river such as the Frying Pan, Gunnison, Blue River, Fire Hole, and the list goes on. The Blue Winged Olive Dun has a total range across the United States from New York State, westward beyond Montana. I would suggest that these ‘Steak and Potato’ flies be best researched and tied out of the classic volume I have just mentioned. I don’t think any fly fisherman could do better regarding descriptions and the basic history of some of the finest flies used on the American Continent. To wit: Thank You Mr. Ernie Schwiebert. Mr. G.
Response:
Funny – we’re using the same name for different insects. In Europe the Blue Winged Olive is the anglers name for the Ephemerella ignita. From May to September – don’t leave home without it! Some nice pics at: http://www.fishing-in-wales.co.uk/wildlife/insects/upwing/bwolive.htm Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … From what I understand, BWO is a fisherman’s term that describes a number of different species of mayflies. … Bluewinged Olive is the fishermen’s name for the subimago of several Baetis spp. and Pseudocloeon spp. and the subimago Ephemerella flavilinea. What I call "the little grey ones".
— Ken Fortenberry
– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher
Response:
[snip] Also keep in mind, the color of your imitation is influenced by reflected light, how wet the materials get and other factors as well, so what comes off the vise is likely to look drastically different when it’s on the water….. and especailly when it’s viewed from beneath the water by a creature with a highly different vision system.
Is he talking about Louie?
Response:
Excellent book and excellent fly. Perfect for Colorado and New Mexico streams. Well said, Mr. G DP – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ______ Dear Pete: I suppose, one of the main flies in my arsenal is indeed various sizes of the "Blue Winged Olive Dun." In fact, the majority of my finest flies that I tie are from the exact patterns as described in Ernie Scwiebert’s masterful work, "Matching The Hatch." I personally think no fly fisherman would find themselves wanting on any stream in the United States if he tied up a half dozen of every fly in this magnificent book. It is the base of my entire fly collection that I carry in my vest for the last 44 years! The Blue Winged Olive Duns along with the Iron Duns are perhaps the mainstay of a starting line on most streams, early in the season, especially the Iron Blue Dun on a river such as the Frying Pan, Gunnison, Blue River, Fire Hole, and the list goes on. The Blue Winged Olive Dun has a total range across the United States from New York State, westward beyond Montana. I would suggest that these ‘Steak and Potato’ flies be best researched and tied out of the classic volume I have just mentioned. I don’t think any fly fisherman could do better regarding descriptions and the basic history of some of the finest flies used on the American Continent. To wit: Thank You Mr. Ernie Schwiebert. Mr. G.
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Aside from the "bad weather fly" part (must be a western thing – we get ‘em all the way up through Maine even on really nice days)
It might be an altitude/sun thing ie. sun more intense at higher altitude. Out West cloud cover really makes a difference. They will hatch out on sunny days but much better with cloud cover. If you’re on the stream on a sunny day and you get a period of cloud cover, even for a relatively short period of time, the hatch intensifies and the fish will start feeding. When the sun comes out the whole thing stops. I’ve been on the river during partly cloudy days and have see this cycle repeated all day long. Willi
Response:
Hi Guys, I was on the Lower Kings River the other day and I picked up what was defined to me as a BWO or blue wing olive. This was the first actual specimen I had ever seen. Upon close examination, the thorax showed up to be what I would describe as a light yellowish olive or even a very light lime green color. The wings were the standard gray which I believe is also called dun color. I tied up a few in the same color (from memory) using the parachute style, and they came out pretty nice after a few tries. In speaking with a bud regarding this fly, he stated that he thought the thorax is often other colors such as gray, bluish or yellow. Not that I doubt him, but I have not found any materials which show me other variations of the blue wing olive. I don’t see blue wing yellows or blue wing grays either. <g Any thoughts on this topic? Pete
Response:
BWO’s do vary in the color of the body as well as the shade of gray of the wing. They also vary in size. On a given river, these differences are usually seasonal. As a whole they tend to get smaller as the season goes on. In the Spring, they will be of a size 16 or 18. By late Fall and Winter they will be down to a 20 or 22. Different watersheds also have different BWO’s. From what I understand, BWO is a fisherman’s term that describes a number of different species of mayflies. The commonality is a gray wing and a body with some olive tones in it. The body often has other colors in it including: gray, yellow, rust, brown. cream etc. When tying them I generally blend an olive with several other colors. Most of the time, I prefer a parachute or paradun style. BWO’s are a "bad weather" fly. They hatch heaviest on overcast days. In the Rockies, the BWO’s are the most consistent Mayfly. They will hatch every month, even in mid Winter during a warm spell. Just before runoff, there are some very strong hatches on cloudy days that provide some excellent surface fishing. The hatches also seem to get stronger again in the Fall. Most of the time, I prefer a parachute or paradun style. Willi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Guys, I was on the Lower Kings River the other day and I picked up what was defined to me as a BWO or blue wing olive. This was the first actual specimen I had ever seen. Upon close examination, the thorax showed up to be what I would describe as a light yellowish olive or even a very light lime green color. The wings were the standard gray which I believe is also called dun color. I tied up a few in the same color (from memory) using the parachute style, and they came out pretty nice after a few tries. In speaking with a bud regarding this fly, he stated that he thought the thorax is often other colors such as gray, bluish or yellow. Not that I doubt him, but I have not found any materials which show me other variations of the blue wing olive. I don’t see blue wing yellows or blue wing grays either. <g Any thoughts on this topic? Pete
Response:
And I always thought it meant "Budwiser With Onionrings" I guess I’ll have more room in my vest next time out for flies
Dave ( the book is on my wish list, thanks George) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ______ Dear Pete: I suppose, one of the main flies in my arsenal is indeed various sizes of the "Blue Winged Olive Dun." In fact, the majority of my finest flies that I tie are from the exact patterns as described in Ernie Scwiebert’s masterful work, "Matching The Hatch." I personally think no fly fisherman would find themselves wanting on any stream in the United States if he tied up a half dozen of every fly in this magnificent book. It is the base of my entire fly collection that I carry in my vest for the last 44 years! The Blue Winged Olive Duns along with the Iron Duns are perhaps the mainstay of a starting line on most streams, early in the season, especially the Iron Blue Dun on a river such as the Frying Pan, Gunnison, Blue River, Fire Hole, and the list goes on. The Blue Winged Olive Dun has a total range across the United States from New York State, westward beyond Montana. I would suggest that these ‘Steak and Potato’ flies be best researched and tied out of the classic volume I have just mentioned. I don’t think any fly fisherman could do better regarding descriptions and the basic history of some of the finest flies used on the American Continent. To wit: Thank You Mr. Ernie Schwiebert. Mr. G.
Response:
I was told by an entomologist/flyfisherman that there were twenty different species called BWO that he was aware of. He felt that there probably was really close to a hundred. Willi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … From what I understand, BWO is a fisherman’s term that describes a number of different species of mayflies. … Bluewinged Olive is the fishermen’s name for the subimago of several Baetis spp. and Pseudocloeon spp. and the subimago Ephemerella flavilinea. What I call "the little grey ones".
— Ken Fortenberry
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – BWO’s do vary in the color of the body as well as the shade of gray of the wing. They also vary in size. On a given river, these differences are usually seasonal. As a whole they tend to get smaller as the season goes on. In the Spring, they will be of a size 16 or 18. By late Fall and Winter they will be down to a 20 or 22. Different watersheds also have different BWO’s. From what I understand, BWO is a fisherman’s term that describes a number of different species of mayflies. The commonality is a gray wing and a body with some olive tones in it. The body often has other colors in it including: gray, yellow, rust, brown. cream etc. When tying them I generally blend an olive with several other colors. Most of the time, I prefer a parachute or paradun style. BWO’s are a "bad weather" fly. They hatch heaviest on overcast days. In the Rockies, the BWO’s are the most consistent Mayfly. They will hatch every month, even in mid Winter during a warm spell. Just before runoff, there are some very strong hatches on cloudy days that provide some excellent surface fishing. The hatches also seem to get stronger again in the Fall. Most of the time, I prefer a parachute or paradun style.
Aside from the "bad weather fly" part (must be a western thing – we get ‘em all the way up through Maine even on really nice days) you provided some solid information on this pattern, William. I don’t have enough fingers and toes to count all the body color variations I’ve seen used on BWOs – though the wings, hackles, and tails are nearly always a medium blue dun (and I wouldn’t tie ‘em with anything else). Anyone making the Y2K Maine Conclave should have a bunch of these at the ready, size 16-20 (particularly 18-20)… /daytripper
Response:
… From what I understand, BWO is a fisherman’s term that describes a number of different species of mayflies. …
Bluewinged Olive is the fishermen’s name for the subimago of several Baetis spp. and Pseudocloeon spp. and the subimago Ephemerella flavilinea. What I call "the little grey ones".
— Ken Fortenberry
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Question:
I am seeking information on wet flies and their overall effectiveness. I used them quite a bit last summer and found them productive when both dry flies and nymphs were not. I would be interested in other people’s opinions and experiences with this category of flies; what conditions, patterns etc. Thank you in advance Craig Horning
Response:
I am seeking information on wet flies and their overall effectiveness. I used them quite a bit last summer and found them productive when both dry flies and nymphs were not. I would be interested in other people’s opinions and experiences with this category of flies; what conditions, patterns etc. Thank you in advance Craig Horning
I have always enjoyed using soft hackled flies, especially as tied in Sylvester Nemes book, The Soft Hackled Fly Addict. Although I can’t give up my parachutes, wulfs and GR hares ears, I do enjoy little yelow soft hackles and variations tied with peacock herl and others with Hares Ear. I must admit, I generally use leftover partridge, grouse, sparrow or even mottled inexpensive capes instead of using some of the harder to find or expensive bird feathers used in Nemes’ book.(but then I’m kinda cheap) I find they work well fished like a dry, or fish them like a nymph. Depending on the situation and lie, I find they sometimes work well during a hatch, maybe taken as emergers. Anyway, I always have some with me in 18-14 sizes, and some Hares ear soft hackles, tied with a longer body on a 9672 in up to size 10, unweighted, to use when GR hares ears are too heavy for shallow water. Kevin Williams, Indianapolis, IN
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Hello All Well in reference to wet flies…a wet fly man/woman will catch more day in and day out than any dry fly man/woman can hope for. At least that is what the late great Charles Brooks said…and I agree. I have a pattern I have varied off a dark spruce. I call it a little bow’. I don’t know anything else to call it. It is tyed on a size 10-14 9671 mustad…it has a dark olive tail…a peacock herl body…and have way up the thorax…so to speak…put in a couple wraps of red floss. Then continue wrapping up the body with the peacock herl and tye off. Then put on a couple wraps of grizzly colored pattridge…at the head. It works wonderful…try a few different thread colors…6/0 is the size I like or 8/0 unithread. I found dark olive and red threads work real well…and yes it can make a difference. It is a faster water fly…but I have caught 10 fish in half hour with this fly…and have yet to find a place it doesn’t work. From montana…to southern Idaho…and that is alot of water. Enjoy and let me know how it works
Response:
Are they any better than flies with hackle? Is it not difficult to get them to float? Regards Knut Uleberg.
Response:
: Are they any better than flies with hackle? : Is it not difficult to get them to float? Hi Knut, My application of no-hackle dry-flies is almost always stillwater, or slow-water fishing and almost always with the deer-hair comparaduns. The rivers here in the rockies will drown a no hackle, but unless you are a strict halfordian, this is no great thing anyway. For the swift waters, I’ll sometimes use 3 or more premium hackles per fly. Happy Holidays, Tim Walker
Response:
writes: No hackle flies are especially good on calm water. Trout seem to examine body length and color more in calm water, and no-hackle flies ride better in the surface film to allow trout a longer and better look. Matching size and color of the naturals is especially critical with no-hackle flies. Hope this helps. Cordially, Bob Elliott
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