Question:

Check with Fish First Fly shop in Chico. 167 E 3rd St. Chico CA 95928 Tel (530) 343-8300 Fax (530) 343-8934 Their web site is www.fishfirst.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

Response:

I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

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Question:

– half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes.

Peter, could you explain this a bit more?  I’ve heard of spey casting but I don’t really know what it involves, but I’d like to try what you’re saying. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

When I’m casting really heavy rigs, like for steelhead, I let the backcast drop into the water behind me and let the current straighten the line out. Then I just lob the rig upstream.

I had to do that with the "bead ‘n’ bunny" rig I talked about earlier. It never gets pretty looking, but if you don’t shoot a little line as well like you mentioned earlier, it *feels* absolutely horrible. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

Bruiserman writes: I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me

…in which case, you are approaching George Harvey’s preferred nymph presentation, which he calls a tuck cast. The principle is: overcast the forward pitch upstream, dropping the rod tip at the end, resulting in this bounce effect. You thereby get the weight(nymphs,etc) to strike water first and start to sink, with the floating part of the rig piled up on the water. Then, when the nymph drifts downstream, it does so with far less drag and covers the absolute bottom more effectively. Control of this technique takes lots of practice(I pull it off gracefully perhaps one time in three tries), but does allow an upstream nymph to fish through a lot of water.                              Tom Littleton

Response:

On another topic entirely, I was fishing down at the lake the other day for carp and was dropping in a #12 cracked corn fly made with yellow chenele and copper wire.  Couldn’t keep the LARGE bluegill off the darn thing!  We’re talking bluegill measured by weight not relationship to hand size. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Sounds so simple even I can tie it. I will tie up a dozen tonight. Ought to work great on my G-series 2 weight rod. Big Dale – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it.

Watcha’ gonna’ do with that bad boy, BD? — Charlie…

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—

Check out www.Billysandifer.com to get a few ideas. This guy guides on South Padre Island and does the surf thing by guiding clients out of an old Surburban. He finds that the door hinges wear out first on his trucks.This guy is no where near the lunatic fringe…he is way past the fringe. He likes the two-handed rods for casting 100 feet into 40 mph winds that are common. His personal record in a 740 pound shark, but one of his clients beat that by 80 or 90 pounds. I just think it would be a good excuse to learn how to play with a two handed rod. Big Dale

Response:

— Check out www.Billysandifer.com to get a few ideas. This guy guides on South Padre Island and does the surf thing by guiding clients out of an old Surburban. He finds that the door hinges wear out first on his trucks.This guy is no where near the lunatic fringe…he is way past the fringe. He likes the two-handed rods for casting 100 feet into 40 mph winds that are common. His personal record in a 740 pound shark, but one of his clients beat that by 80 or 90 pounds. I just think it would be a good excuse to learn how to play with a two handed rod.

Barbed or barbless hooks? <g — Charlie…

Response:

Big Dale, On another topic entirely, I was fishing down at the lake the other day for carp and was dropping in a #12 cracked corn fly made with yellow chenele and copper wire.  Couldn’t keep the LARGE bluegill off the darn thing!  We’re talking bluegill measured by weight not relationship to hand size. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Response:

A lot of people would call that desirable as it allows the nymph to get into the water ahead of your line and start sinking more quickly! Smooth it out a bit and proclaim "I meant to do that" and that’s what a tuck cast is.  Lot’s of good fishermen do it.  Otherwise, you could either underpower your cast slightly, or leave a little slack in your line – let go of the line with your line hand and instead of snapping back it will shoot out a bit more.  Once in awhile, I can even practice what I preach, so it can’t be too hard That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions?

– Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain.

Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it. Big Dale – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain. Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it. Big Dale

man, you finally gotta rod that matches your moniker.  congrats. The best explanation I’ve seen so far is Mike Maxwell’s "The Art & Science of Spey Casting." Really, the main difference between roll casting and spey casting shows up in the forward loop.  The roll cast rolls off the water where the spey cast looks like a regular forward loop from an overhead cast. Without gettting fancy, go out to a pond and roll cast.  After you’ve got a rhythm going, then add an upward push at the end rollcast power stroke.  Instead of a rollcast, you’ll end up with a forward overhead cast looping, assuming the timing works. drop me an email if there’s some things you want to go over. Peter

Response:

I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast.

That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions? bruiser Before you buy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast. That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions?

Try shooting some line. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′ –Steve

Response:

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′ –Steve

Typical overhead casting is usually not a good idea with lead and weighted flies anyway.  I use a number of different casts, rarely overhead, when nymphing.  No matter what method, I always keep the loops wide open and yes, I prefer a slower rod for this. – upstream lob – just let the rig run straight downstream at the end of the drift then in one motion, pick it up and lay it out upstream. – half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes. – circle or half a half-assed spey – with the current going the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain.

Response:

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′

When I’m casting really heavy rigs, like for steelhead, I let the backcast drop into the water behind me and let the current straighten the line out. Then I just lob the rig upstream. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

– half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes.

I had a guide teach me this one day when I couldn’t roll cast worth a shit (okay, that’s most days).   Not only is it a great way to cast a nymph & shot, but it looks damned cool too. Joe F.

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

No no Wayno, just turn and walk away… <g — Charlie…

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing? No no Wayno, just turn and walk away… <g — Charlie…

        your wisdom prevails, as usual, mon duc. wayno, who never enjoyed a sitting duck

Response:

Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? -A humble and ignorant supplicant

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I can’t really put my finger on it, but…. Oh that didn’t sound good. The thing is, I have a pretty stiff rod now, and… umm… let’s try again. For one thing, you don’t really want an super-tight loop if you’re using 2 nymphs, lead, and a strike indicator.  Nymphing does not necessarily mean those things, but sometimes it does.  A less-stiff rod helps you open the loop a bit. A faster rod usually generates higher line speed, which some people find helpful for drying out a dry fly.  With a nymph or streamer, not only is this not necessary, but it’s undesirable.  I once saw a video where an expert suggested a tactic of letting your streamer drop and touch the water behind you to keep wet, thereby allowing it to sink a little more quickly when landing on the forward cast.  I’ve never tried it for fear of looking like an even worse fisherman than I am. Finally, and this is the part I "can’t put my finger on", but a stiff rod just doesn’t seem to give the best feel when detecting strikes or setting the hook.  If you are literally feeling the take with your rod tip, I’m sure your line would be too tight to the fish, but still it just doesn’t feel right to me.  Bottom line for me personally – I have a Loomis GLX I’ve been using for nymphing and I’m switching to a little more moderate action.  Even though I tend to like faster rods, it doesn’t feel right to me for nymphs.  I’m not an expert but intermediate – don’t know if that means I’m more or less helpful to you at your level. Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? -A humble and ignorant supplicant

– Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

Scottb: Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why?

Who says they are?  I’m a successful nympher and use a Sage RPl+, SP, and a Winston LT (soft compared to Sages).  I find the stiffer rod makes casting (albeit short casts) easier with split shot and strike indicator.  It’s more of a lob.  Some would say that *all* my casts are like a lob, but that’s another story.  <g Dave LaCourse

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? Who says they are?

Well there ya go Scott.  Some things have pretty much universal answers, others have as many answers as fishermen.  Best way is to experiment.  Cheapest way to experiment is to buy used, use it, then sell it and buy another.  Sometimes you can break even or even make a few bucks in the process. Regards, Jeff

Response:

The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

Response:

The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

It is well done, but I hear that the author only wrote it after spending a week with our Uncle Louie on the Rapid. Peter

Response:

Dave, As a newbie, nymphing is my next great challenge, since everyone seems to talk about how productive it is.  I’ve caught one (1) trout on a wet fly and one (1) trout on a dry fly, with several misses on each as well.  I’ve caught numerous pan fish on panfish/bass bugs. So, yes, I’d be interested in getting a copy of this journal. Thanks, Rob The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

– Robert Switzer        wk (732) 949-4942 Lucent Technologies   rm. 4J-263, 101 Crawfords Corner Rd. Holmdel, NJ, 07733

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Peter Charles writes: The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L. It is well done, but I hear that the author only wrote it after spending a week with our Uncle Louie on the Rapid. Peter

Well, thank you, young fella.  You show me how to streamer fish and I’ll reveal the secrets of nymphing — this June, at Lakewood. Louie Dave LaCourse

Response:

Rob Switzer writes: So, yes, I’d be interested in getting a copy of this journal.

Hi, Rob.  I’ve answered you by e-mail, not knowing you listed your address here.   In New Jersey they list: The Fly Hatch in Shrewsburg (www.flyhatch.com) Orvis Store in Paramus (www.orvis.com) The Sportsmen’s Center in Bordentown (www.sportsmenscenter.com) Hope this helps, Rob.  If not, please feel free to e-mail me with any questions. Dave LaCourse

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Question:

Hi everyone I have been a coarse angler for 40 years But now  I am switching to fly fishing I have recently purchased two fly rods a) 8-0 foot brook rod b) 9-1/2 foot reservoir rod can anyone advise me what type of lines I need and any other advice Thanks Dennis

Dennis, I am in the same place as you (just starting) and I found a great site that shows several of the knots that are needed in fly fishing.  Hope this helps. http://www.killroys.com/knots/knots.htm  I wish I could help with your line selection. — All fishermen are liars ‘cept you n me, and I’m starting to have doubts about you! www.fishticker.com

Response:

Hi everyone I have been a coarse angler for 40 years But now  I am switching to fly fishing I have recently purchased two fly rods a) 8-0 foot brook rod b) 9-1/2 foot reservoir rod  can anyone advise me what type of lines I need and any other advice Thanks Dennis

Response:

Dennis Walker writes: Hi everyone I have been a coarse angler for 40 years But now  I am switching to fly fishing I have recently purchased two fly rods a) 8-0 foot brook rod b) 9-1/2 foot reservoir rod can anyone advise me what type of lines I need and any other advice Thanks Dennis

Hi, Dennis.  You don’t give the line weight of the rods or how you will be fishing them (dries, nymphs, streamers).  For example, if you are going to fish streams with dry flies, a floating line (weight forward or double taper) would be in order.  The same for nymphing.  If, however, you are going to be casting streamers, a sinking line would be better. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Hi everyone I have been a coarse angler for 40 years But now  I am switching to fly fishing I have recently purchased two fly rods a) 8-0 foot brook rod b) 9-1/2 foot reservoir rod  can anyone advise me what type of lines I need and any other advice Thanks Dennis

Contact Tony Deacon, hire him for casting & fishing lessons as well as consulting.  As a beginner in England, you will need some hands-on expertise to show you the ropes.  It will save you money and frustration. — Wayne (Tony, remit referral fee in form of 1/2 day chit good for chalk stream fishing in England/Scotland) To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

I ran across some sinking tips which you attach to the end of your fly line with a loop connection.  They had 3 different sink rates (3"/second, 6"/second, 9"/second) in 12 foot lengths.  I purchased the slower two sink rates.  When I got home and unpacked these sink tips I was surprised to find that they are not tapered.  With the addition of a hinge in the line and the fact that they are not tapered, won’t this make casting them difficult.  I am going to try them tomorrow but would like to hear if anyone has some advice on how to properly use these add on sink tips.  After a day of messing with them I would like to read some advice from someone who has used these things. Thanks in advance David

Response:

I make them myself by chopping up a fast sinking flyline and threading the sinking line into a short piece of braided mono line.  I use them for salmon fishing with a 9wt rod.  You need a rod with a bit of punch and cast with a more open loop than you would normally.  I put a coat of flexament on my braids and that stiffens the hinge somewhat.  I do use a WF line with my setup and the rod will load up with alot less line out.  Just make a couple of practise casts and you will find the sweet spot.  I mark my floating line with a sharpie pen.  Check the loop connections regularly, I did have one fail on me while fighting a big fish.  Sounded like a firecracker.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran across some sinking tips which you attach to the end of your fly line with a loop connection.  They had 3 different sink rates (3"/second, 6"/second, 9"/second) in 12 foot lengths.  I purchased the slower two sink rates. When I got home and unpacked these sink tips I was surprised to find that they are not tapered.  With the addition of a hinge in the line and the fact that they are not tapered, won’t this make casting them difficult.  I am going to try them tomorrow but would like to hear if anyone has some advice on how to properly use these add on sink tips.  After a day of messing with them I would like to read some advice from someone who has used these things. Thanks in advance David

Response:

You can get tapered sink tips (not exactly tips per se) from Airflo.  They are called Polyleaders and come in 5′ and 10′ length in all sink rates from floating to type 4(?) sinking and in two weight ranges ("trout" for line weights up to 5 and "salmon/bass" for 6-9 weights). In spite of some other people’s complaints about Airflo products I have found these to be very good (as well as a 4 wt Hi Sense long belly fly line I use).  I made some level sink tips from a discarded full sinking line and defineitely found the Polyleaders to be superior. You can get these from ezflyfish.com.  I haven’t found another place that sells these (except Feathercraft in St. Louis, but they don’t have as broad a selection as Mr. Winter does). Mu

Response:

says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran across some sinking tips which you attach to the end of your fly line with a loop connection.  They had 3 different sink rates (3"/second, 6"/second, 9"/second) in 12 foot lengths.  I purchased the slower two sink rates.  When I got home and unpacked these sink tips I was surprised to find that they are not tapered.  With the addition of a hinge in the line and the fact that they are not tapered, won’t this make casting them difficult.  I am going to try them tomorrow but would like to hear if anyone has some advice on how to properly use these add on sink tips.  After a day of messing with them I would like to read some advice from someone who has used these things. Thanks in advance David

I fished the Orvis Sink Tips with my WF line yesterday and they worked quite well. They DO load the rod MUCH more rapidly at shorter distances though! Forget about using these things with light patters though. I fought more tailing loops and windknots with an 18 BeadHead than I did fishing it! If found that heavier patterns work well. — Michael Era

Question:

1996 Astro 15 footer 90 HP mercury outboard motorguide RF trolling motor custom cover custom trailor.                                $7995.00 Call Tom Bauer 1-908-686-2800

Response:

Hi Guys, I just started coming to this news group in addition to the fly fishing newsgroups I subscribe to.  I was once such a hard core bass fisherman that I never went fishing without my boat.  Now I do both stream and lake fishing with my first love being fishing for bass and preferably with a fly rod. Being on this group is great!  However, I am surprised at the amount of advertising showing up here.  Is this a valid forum for advertising your used fishing gear? Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1996 Astro 15 footer 90 HP mercury outboard motorguide RF trolling motor custom cover custom trailor.                                $7995.00 Call Tom Bauer 1-908-686-2800

Response:

I believe personal gear is ok.  Trying to pass off comercial for personal is a no no. Brian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Guys, I just started coming to this news group in addition to the fly fishing newsgroups I subscribe to.  I was once such a hard core bass fisherman that I never went fishing without my boat.  Now I do both stream and lake fishing with my first love being fishing for bass and preferably with a fly rod. Being on this group is great!  However, I am surprised at the amount of advertising showing up here.  Is this a valid forum for advertising your used fishing gear? Pete 1996 Astro 15 footer 90 HP mercury outboard motorguide RF trolling motor custom cover custom trailor.                                $7995.00 Call Tom Bauer 1-908-686-2800

Response:

The Guidelines allows posting of personal advertisements, as long as the subject specifies ‘For Sale.’ — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales!    Columbia SC, Lake Murray

Response:

Thanks. Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Guidelines allows posting of personal advertisements, as long as the subject specifies ‘For Sale.’ — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales!    Columbia SC, Lake Murray

Response:

Question:

Just flip them back out with your gig pole, or your push pole.  The biggest thing is to learn how to tell a water snake from a cotton mouth.  They will vary in color from a light tan through to a dark brown and all the way to black, so look for the thick body and big head.

A very good point Pat. I grew up around the swamps in southeast Texas and saw a wide range of colors. The thick body and wide heads are the correct clues. I once was working at a golf course where one clogged a 6" sprinkler intake pipe in one of the ponds. Imagine my coworker’s reaction when he waded out, feeling for what was there and found that cotton mouth. Jesus wasn’t the only one who walked (ran) on water. Tyler Hopper

Response:

I was told one way to tell if  a snake is of a dangerious kind is to watch how they swin in the water. If a snake swins with head parallel and very close to the surface of the water, then watch out! OTOH, if a snake swims with its head way out of the water, chances are it won’t be something nasty as cotton mouth and the likes. I never understood why, but it seemed to work for me. Joe

Response:

As a rule, most snakes are more afraid of you than you are of them, including rattlers.  The major exception to this rule is the cotton mouth, they will actively defend their territory if they are on land.  I grew up in southeast Alabama within walking distance of 3 good sized ponds, all of which were full of snakes and I can tell you from experience that a big cotton mouth will chase you away if you intrude on their "property". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  My experience with snakes in general is that they are more afraid of you than vice versa, and will try to get out of your way if possible. Warren Funk

Response:

Thanks to all who answered my question with advice and fascinating stories.  I appreciate all the answers.   Butch Formerly Corkbug, now DeepSnag! Thanks again guys!

Response:

I recently began fishing both fly and bait casting in the tidal waters of South Eastern Virginia.  I am a little concerned with the safety of wading in these waters with the prevalence of ‘Water Mocassins’.  Do other people wade regularly in these waters and are there any particular precautions one should take? Thanks for any input Butch

Response:

CorkBug – a sawed-off 12 gauge comes to mind first.  Overall, I think you’d be fairly safe, but snakes are snakes, and you can’t predict their behavior. I have seen one up close and personal (four feet long, size of your wrist, and extremely angry).  Of course, he had three treble hooks in his middle, so I suppose you could assume he had reason.  My experience with snakes in general is that they are more afraid of you than vice versa, and will try to get out of your way if possible.  I fished with a buddy who carried a .357 loaded with .38 bird shot–worked great. Warren Funk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently began fishing both fly and bait casting in the tidal waters of South Eastern Virginia.  I am a little concerned with the safety of wading in these waters with the prevalence of ‘Water Mocassins’.  Do other people wade regularly in these waters and are there any particular precautions one should take? Thanks for any input Butch

Response:

In water shallow enough to wade in, it’s not likely that a cotton mouth will be under water, you will see them coming, unless they are coming from behind.  They tend to be aggressive about defending their "territory" so keep an eye out for them.  If the water is fast moving I doubt that you will see many snakes in it anyway.  Another thing to keep in mind.  Where there are water moccasins, there will also be a lot of harmless water snakes that look just like their more dangerous cousins.  The cotton mouth tends to be thicker through the body than the average water snake, plus there is always the head that is wider than the body as a dead giveaway that you have a cotton mouth on your hands.  Another thing that cotton mouths like to do is get in the boat with you at night.  I’ve never understood why, but we frog gig quite a bit from a small jon boat with one guy in front with a headlight and a gig while another guy poles the boat from the back. It’s not unusual for a big ‘ole moccasin to crawl over the side and into the boat. Just flip them back out with your gig pole, or your push pole.  The biggest thing is to learn how to tell a water snake from a cotton mouth.  They will vary in color from a light tan through to a dark brown and all the way to black, so look for the thick body and big head. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently began fishing both fly and bait casting in the tidal waters of South Eastern Virginia.  I am a little concerned with the safety of wading in these waters with the prevalence of ‘Water Mocassins’.  Do other people wade regularly in these waters and are there any particular precautions one should take? Thanks for any input Butch

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Question:

says… Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog.

It’s a great leader for the small stream technical fishing that I do here in the Blue Ridge Mtns. It lays out nice with no memory and is the best leader by far I’ve ever used for bow and arrow casting into small pockets under and around mountain laurel. I’ve never used it for wide open water so I can’t comment on it for that but I suspect it would more than suffice for stillwater situations where you would desire a light presentation. I don’t believe I’d use it for nymphing. –Walt

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forgot to mention one thing…. throw away the mono bimini-twist tippet they provide. THAT IS A PIECE OF JUNK  and will cause you nothing but pain, frustration and agony on the river. I build my own 2 to 6 foot tippet addition with a loop to connect to the braided leader. –Walt

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says… Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog. Check out the new Airflo leaders. They’re available in floating and several

different sink rates. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s a great leader for the small stream technical fishing that I do here in the Blue Ridge Mtns. It lays out nice with no memory and is the best leader by far I’ve ever used for bow and arrow casting into small pockets under and around mountain laurel. I’ve never used it for wide open water so I can’t comment on it for that but I suspect it would more than suffice for stillwater situations where you would desire a light presentation. I don’t believe I’d use it for nymphing. –Walt

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i use them for nymphing all the time.. the braided section tends to grip a strike indicator very well and the bimmini twist in the tippet helps to turn over a wieghted

fly quite well.. the only trouble i have had with them is that they tend to streach a bit when striking a fish Steve

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…

I use braided leaders all the time, for surface flies and nymphs, mostly because they’re soooo easy. But they also work. This topic comes up every now and then, and the only real criticism that I can resonate with is that they tend to hold water and so can create a spray. This can scare spooky fish, especially in flat water, but false casts cure it.

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… I use braided leaders all the time, for surface flies and nymphs, mostly because they’re soooo easy. But they also work. This topic comes up every now and then, and the only real criticism that I can resonate with is that they tend to hold water and so can create a spray. This can scare spooky fish, especially in flat water, but false casts cure it.

 Airflo also produce a tapered leader called ‘Polyleader’ – these have a  monofilament core surrounded by a tapered coating which does away with  the splashing problem.  About 5 feet long, you just tie on a mono  tippet as for the braided type and they turn over pretty well.  cheers all,  Dave — Fishy pix of N.Wales at:  http://xavier.bangor.ac.uk/dlane/fishing/ He that is giddy thinks the world turns round.

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Dave,     I have used the AirFlo leader and found it to be very useful.  For a beginning fly fisher my local shop suggested I skin back a little of the tippet end of the leader to expose the core and tie a loop.  I can then change tippets with a simple handshake knot very quickly.  The setup certainly casts very well with my limited ability and offers great flexibility as I make up various size tippets in advance. Wayne To fish is human…to release devine.

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Dave,    I have used the AirFlo leader and found it to be very useful.

Ditto, I find the Airflo Poly leader the best I’ve ever used. Wes

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Tom, I have been using an Orvis braided for about a year now, for dry’s , nymphs and streamers. I am still using the same leader, where as before I would go through a dozen leaders a season (actually saves me $).  They are great, hardly ever knot up, but when they do you must be very careful because you can ruin it picking it apart. They tend to sink easier tham mono, but when fishing a dry a little floatant takes care of the problem.  They turn over great and have no memory. Scott Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog.

– Scott Maxwell http://www.page.az.net/scud

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: They are too expensive at $9-10. I got a 9′ 5X about 3 months ago and : it has fallen apart (fished once a week). Flies that have a tendency : to twist (hoppers) will tangle a lot faster. After a couple of trips, : it started to fray and cause the line to tangle even more. : On the other hand. There is little memory. Just rig the line off the : reel. I have an Orvis line with the loop and it makes a good fit. It : did seem to help with controlling drag. No problems casting small : drys. : I wish it would be a little more durable or a little less expensive. : I might buy another but only use it when casting small drys. : Michael L You may want to try the AirFlo braided leaders.  I’ve been using them for several years and really like them.  They’re more durable than the Orvis leaders and they seem to float better as well. I also really like their lack of memory.  A little more spray than monofilament leaders (tho not much); but not a problem if you don’t make your first cast after pickup over the fish you are casting to (a good idea even if you’re not using braided leaders).  I’ve used these leaders with really small flies on spring creeks (Silver Creek and the Henry’s Fork) and not ever had a problem with presentation or spooking fish due to a braided leader (of course I usually fish downstream in these situations).  In fact the braided leader usually allows me to make a better presentation because it has so little memory.  I think the AirFlo leaders cost around $7-8.  They also have sinking braided leaders with different sink rates; makes it easy to create a sink tip from your floating line (or give your sinking line a little more "sink" at the tip). – Ward — —  Ward Foster            Hewlett-Packard, Boise Idaho

Response:

Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog.

Hi All, This all happened about 10 years ago here in California. Orvis and others brought in the tapered braided leaders and they soon died off. I hear that they are alive and well in Europe. Try it, you might like it? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog. Hi All, This all happened about 10 years ago here in California. Orvis and others brought in the tapered braided leaders and they soon died off. I hear that they are alive and well in Europe. Try it, you might like it? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Hi! I use them for nymphing on big rivers, With small dries and small creeks I use mono. I think they are best for big waters and bigger fish. In other words the opposite opinion from earlier writers on this subject. Hans

Response:

Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog.

Response:

Tom, When they first came out Orvis was giving away samples so I took one and stuck it in my tackle box where it remains still in its wrapper. I make my own leaders.  If you want it give me your mailing address and I will send it to you. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them.

Response:

They are too expensive at $9-10. I got a 9′ 5X about 3 months ago and it has fallen apart (fished once a week). Flies that have a tendency to twist (hoppers) will tangle a lot faster. After a couple of trips, it started to fray and cause the line to tangle even more. On the other hand. There is little memory. Just rig the line off the reel. I have an Orvis line with the loop and it makes a good fit. It did seem to help with controlling drag. No problems casting small drys. I wish it would be a little more durable or a little less expensive. I might buy another but only use it when casting small drys. Michael L – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them. All I know is what I read about them in their catalog. Never heard of anyone really using this setup…the guy at the local Orvis shop thought they had been discontinued until I showed them to him in the catalog.

Response:

Interested in opinions about or experiences with Orvis’ braided leaders and the long (4 ft) tippets that loop connect to them.

– I purchased one 8-ft braided section (w/4-ft 5X tippet) this spring based on the recommendation of a friend who also gave me some other advice… 1.  Trash the 4-foot bimini twist tippet with the package 2.  Loop a 3-foot section of 3X to the braided leader 3.  Tie on a 4-foot section of 5X-7X depending on conditions 4.  Dress the braided leader with a very light wax/silicone coating     to prevent water uptake and enhance floatability Makes a good 15-ft small tippet leader that turns over like a 9-foot knotless tapered leader.  I have had good success with this set-up fishing both small drys and nymphs on the tailwater streams here in NE TN this season.   Still fishing the original braided section (over 15-trips), but it probably won’t make it to next season. My understanding is that Orvis has coated the braided sections (see #4 above) on some of the later versions of this leader set-up due to problems with water uptake and misting.             | /              |/    (         /|     —     / | C. Michael Bullard The Yellar Hammer

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Jim.  Buy one roll of 5x braided and then in a warm well lighted room try to thread a freshly cut section of braided tippet through the eye of a # 20 hook.  This may help you decided if you want to switch over

I’m actually interested in a braided butt section, since that is the part that is really stiff.  I plan to stick with mono tippets, since they’re flexible enough.  I think a braided butt would be better for eliminating drag. — Jim Benenson                 Los Alamos, New Mexico, USA "The commonplace is only the self-constructed wall that separates us from the marvelous"  Tom Brown, Jr.

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I own a set of Orvis braided leaders.  While they do produce tight loops, they soak up water.  This make them heavy to pick up on the backcast and you run the risk of spooking fish with the spray during false casts. Lastly, I tried to add a 4 foot section of tippet material to the 5 foot braided leader (making it a nine foot leader).  THe tippet section did not straighten well.  Orvis sells tippet sections that are supposedly tapered, but they are expensive. Daren Valentine

Response:

I use the Orvis braided leaders and LOVE them.  They last for about two years and I just tie on a length of tippet material on the end, then change that from time to time.  I’ve used both the light ones on my 5 weight rod, and the medium weight ones on my 7 weight.  I feel that the price is justified, even though I have to buy tippet material too.  Plus like you say, they’re not as stiff.

Response:

I use the Orvis braided leaders and LOVE them.  They last for about two years and I just tie on a length of tippet material on the end, then change that from time to time.  I’ve used both the light ones on my 5 weight rod, and the medium weight ones on my 7 weight.  I feel that the price is justified, even though I have to buy tippet material too.  Plus like you say, they’re not as stiff. Don’t you have problems with wind knots? I know wk’s are mainly due to poor casting technique, but I always seem to have more problems with the braided leaders. But you are correct – they are limp. Bob –

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Question:

I am planning a 4 day FF trip to Juneau, Alaska at the end of August. I sure could use some info on the following: Fly patterns and sizes Techniques Favorite streams Line size (I will be fishing with a G. Loomis 9′ 6wt) I have a friend who lives in Alaska and fishes quite a bit, but, when I told him that I wanted to come and fly fish he said that he hasn’t seen anyone around Juneau fly fishing and that it was not the method of choice for that area.  I plan on fly-fishing. Am I being too optomistic? Thanks in advance.

Response:

One reason there is so little fly fishing in Juneau is that it is relatively hard to get to a stream. The airport is on a small island off the coast, and there is essentially only 1 road north and south a short distance.  Most people have boats that they use to troll for fish in the inland waterway. I fished there once, on Montana Creek. You want to be careful of bears, especially late in the summer when the spawning fish are in the rivers in numbers.  The scenery is beautiful; have a great time. In article – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am planning a 4 day FF trip to Juneau, Alaska at the end of August. I sure could use some info on the following: Fly patterns and sizes Techniques Favorite streams Line size (I will be fishing with a G. Loomis 9′ 6wt) I have a friend who lives in Alaska and fishes quite a bit, but, when I told him that I wanted to come and fly fish he said that he hasn’t seen anyone around Juneau fly fishing and that it was not the method of choice for that area.  I plan on fly-fishing. Am I being too optomistic? Thanks in advance.

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Question:

Hi Everyone: Has anyone seen or heard from Dennis Bitton of the Flyfishers News.  He had started a club called "Short Fat Flyfishers Club" awhile back and then poof, no newspaper and no Dennis. I would love to resurect the "SFFC" again and all its great attributes. If anyone knows Dennis Bitton or knows his whereabouts please have him get ahold of me here on the net. I have all the news articles he wrote on this subject if anyone would want to read them. The club had some simple rules. Waist- Minimum- 38"  Inseam- Maximum 30". There were special points given for baldness, 27" arm length, false teeth and so forth. There was a $5.00 member fee that went to Dennis’s lunches..:) The main point of the club was to put pressure on the wader and outdoor clothes mfg’s to create extended sized products (XXXL-XXXXXL). I don’t know about you, but I hate to buy waders with a 36" inseam just to get my girth pattern. As I remember there were about 260 members and we did succeed at one point in getting custom waders at a human cost, heck we even had L.L. Bean carry 50W 30IS Classic jeans for awhile.   If anyone is interested in either recreating this club or another one like it let me know. I will try my best to get ahold of Dennis at his last known address. Catch you all Later Keep a Mended Line Mike & Marie

Response:

The SFFC is in the process of being revitalized.  Contact: L. C. ‘Bob’ Burnham 10522 Hartford Ave. Orofino, ID 83544 Dennis Bitton will remain as Grand Dictator. Even more promising:  They are discussing the resurrection of the newspaper-like ‘FLY FISHING NEWS VIEWS AND REVIEWS’.  Hope it happens! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Everyone: Has anyone seen or heard from Dennis Bitton of the Flyfishers News.  He had started a club called "Short Fat Flyfishers Club" awhile back and then poof, no newspaper and no Dennis. I would love to resurect the "SFFC" again and all its great attributes. If anyone knows Dennis Bitton or knows his whereabouts please have him get ahold of me here on the net. I have all the news articles he wrote on this subject if anyone would want to read them. The club had some simple rules. Waist- Minimum- 38"  Inseam- Maximum 30". There were special points given for baldness, 27" arm length, false teeth and so forth. There was a $5.00 member fee that went to Dennis’s lunches..:) The main point of the club was to put pressure on the wader and outdoor clothes mfg’s to create extended sized products (XXXL-XXXXXL). I don’t know about you, but I hate to buy waders with a 36" inseam just to get my girth pattern. As I remember there were about 260 members and we did succeed at one point in getting custom waders at a human cost, heck we even had L.L. Bean carry 50W 30IS Classic jeans for awhile.   If anyone is interested in either recreating this club or another one like it let me know. I will try my best to get ahold of Dennis at his last known address. Catch you all Later Keep a Mended Line Mike & Marie

Response:

The SFFC is in the process of being revitalized.  Contact: L. C. ‘Bob’ Burnham 10522 Hartford Ave. Orofino, ID 83544

Hey, that fits me perfectly! <G  Orofino?  Hmm…that make me miss Kelly Creek.  It has been a couple years since I have been there.

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im a sfff. talk to me.

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Question:

Quoting ab258 from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     I recently posted an inquiry about blanks to which the overwhelming     response was that for quality and price I couldn’t beat St. Croix.    now the only problem is finding a good source of them. Any suppliers    out there who would like to either E-mail a price list or send a    catalogue please do so.

  Why don’t you buy them directly from the factory.  That’s what I do.   St. Croix publishes two catalogs, one devoted to finished rods and another   comprised of blanks and components.  They are located in Park Falls, WI   and I understand are the largest American producers of private label rods.

Response:

Phone number for St. Croix = 715-762-3225, FAX 715-762-3293

Response:

Barlow’s Tackle Shop Phone: 214-231-5982 fax: 214-690-4044 Box 830369 Richardson, TX 75083 They do have St Croix blank in their catalog. I have the catalog here, email me if you want to know the blank prices. Good luck, Thi Nguyen

Response:

Mike, I’m sure you’ll get a response from someone regarding the St. Croix rods, but if not, let me know, I have one of their catalogs at home and can send you their address……sorry  I don’t have it handy now.  Helen

Response:

Quoting ab258 from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     I recently posted an inquiry about blanks to which the overwhelming     response was that for quality and price I couldn’t beat St. Croix.    now the only problem is finding a good source of them. Any suppliers    out there who would like to either E-mail a price list or send a    catalogue please do so. Try the Angler’s Workshop.  THey carry a full line of St. Croix blanks as well as Sage, Orvis, Powell, Talon, Laminglas…  Contact them for a catalog:         Anglers Workshop         P.O. Box 1010         1350 Atlantic Ave.         Woodland, Wa. 98674         206-225-9445 Jim in Southern California

Response:

I recently posted an inquiry about blanks to which the overwhelming response was that for quality and price I couldn’t beat St. Croix. now the only problem is finding a good source of them. Any suppliers out there who would like to either E-mail a price list or send a catalogue please do so. Mike Zelman RR #1 Head of Jeddore Nova Scotia CANADA B0J 1P0 —

Response:

I recently posted an inquiry about blanks to which the overwhelming response was that for quality and price I couldn’t beat St. Croix. now the only problem is finding a good source of them. Any suppliers out there who would like to either E-mail a price list or send a catalogue please do so. Mike Zelman RR #1 Head of Jeddore Nova Scotia CANADA B0J 1P0

Northeast Anglers and Outdoor Shops Inc. 21 Main Street East, Grimsby, Ontario, Canada. L3M 1M7 1-800-563-FISH They carry St,. Croix rods so they may also carry blanks. Keep your stick on the ice. Thos.

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