Hi ROFF people, I heard that there was an article, recently, in here, about a fly to catch mullet. But I can’t find it !! Can anybody please help me. I live in holland and know some places where there are really thousands of big mullets. I can approche them very good, ( and cast my fly betwen them ) but NEVER EVER was able to catch one. I can cleary see, that they are feeding ! Thanks in advance, Hans Bock.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi ROFF people, I heard that there was an article, recently, in here, about a fly to catch mullet. But I can’t find it !! Can anybody please help me. I live in holland and know some places where there are really thousands of big mullets. I can approche them very good, ( and cast my fly betwen them ) but NEVER EVER was able to catch one. I can cleary see, that they are feeding ! Thanks in advance, Hans Bock.
You can try these; http://www.mikeladle.com/tackle/tackle3.html http://globalflyfisher.com/global/denmark/species/mullet.html http://www.hartflyfishing.demon.co.uk/mullet_fishing.html TL MC
I had this strange vision of you casting for Randy Johnson… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi ROFF people, I heard that there was an article, recently, in here, about a fly to catch mullet. But I can’t find it !! Can anybody please help me. I live in holland and know some places where there are really thousands of big mullets. I can approche them very good, ( and cast my fly betwen them ) but NEVER EVER was able to catch one. I can cleary see, that they are feeding ! Thanks in advance, Hans Bock.
– Jeff, TASCAM Guy: "Dude, you’re on rec.audio.pro…everyone hates everything."
Try this http://makeashorterlink.com/?Z2C4323F I caught a mullet back in February and hooked several more but could not land them. I was using 8 lb tippet. The one I caught was 5 lbs (2.3 kg) and most of the fish that I saw were about the same size. I was fishing in heavy surf and the fish were using the waves to their advantage. The fish I managed to land made 15 runs before I finally dragged it onto shore with the help of a big wave. It is not typical to catch mullet using any sort of means around this area. However, on that particular day they were actively chasing a school of smelt. There are many species of small fish that are called smelt so I am quite sure that smelt that you might be familiar with are not the same fish. However, mullet is a mullet. Some mullet species are larger than others but all of them (in the literature that I have seen) are closely related. Although the smelt were silvery and typically 5 inches long, the mullet definitely seemed to like a small brownish fly. My friend hooked one on a brown marabou fly but the fish broke off. He couldn’t hook any more after that and he had no more brown flies. I kept hooking and losing fish so finally I offered him one of my flies (which was a combination of burnt-orange llama and black & red squirrel tail). So the color definitely seemed to be the trigger (as both of our flies were tied with similar materials and similar styles). It may be that this color closely imitates the color of seaweed in this area. Even though the mullet were chasing baitfish, I think that a kelp imitation was able to trigger a response while they were in a mood to actively feed. Good luck. Mu
http://anglersnet.co.uk/images/articles/leon24.jpg Just to whet your appetite! 
TL MC
Does any one know it? Thanks, Nick Pujic
Does any one know it?
Hi Nick, He has at least three that I know of. I usually use the following to reach him: Good Fishing, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish
just a quick question from a beginner. i’ve read all about weight of fly lines and matching lines to rods etc, but i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be? philip
just a quick question from a beginner. i’ve read all about weight of fly lines and matching lines to rods etc, but i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be? philip
Our club has alot of tuna fly fishing freaks and some of them have broken fly lines on fish. I’m led to believe the core of nearly all fly lines is only 25-40 lb. 20 lb is normally the heaviest tippet you can use ( IGFA class ) but in Australia our National Sportfishing Association allows 15 kg tippet (over 30 lb). Some shooting heads have broken (in the middle somewhere) during fights with big Yellowfin on these heavy tippets, which from all accounts can be a little demoralising. Regard John Knight Sydney Fly Rodders
You are correct, it is not important. — Remove nospam to send E-mail Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line,
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – just a quick question from a beginner. i’ve read all about weight of fly lines and matching lines to rods etc, but i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be? philip Our club has alot of tuna fly fishing freaks and some of them have broken fly lines on fish. I’m led to believe the core of nearly all fly lines is only 25-40 lb. 20 lb is normally the heaviest tippet you can use ( IGFA class ) but in Australia our National Sportfishing Association allows 15 kg tippet (over 30 lb). Some shooting heads have broken (in the middle somewhere) during fights with big Yellowfin on these heavy tippets, which from all accounts can be a little demoralising. Regard John Knight Sydney Fly Rodders
Hi all, I think that fly lines #5 through #7 are built on 20# test braided line. I think #8 lines and larger are built on 30# test braided line. I know it is easier to needle knot a butt into a #8 line. It seem very hard to get a butt into a #2/3/4 weight line. I think that a line that is about 10 years old will have a weaker core because of the age. We now have lines with single mono cores and with braided mono cores. Some of the real fast sinking lines have a floss like twisted core. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY
i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be?
Irrelevant, i.e. a fine example of information that could be got but nobody conceivably needs. You can see from the structure (dacron braid) that it would be in the range 50 to 150 lb., viz. stronger than all leader knots, backing, backing knot etc. — | Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs, | | Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734 |
i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be?
Irrelevant, i.e. a fine example of information that could be got but nobody conceivably needs. You can see from the structure (dacron braid) that it would be in the range 50 to 150 lb., viz. stronger than all leader knots, backing, backing knot etc. — | Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs, | | Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734 | Even though the leader breaks, you still (at least I do) have to worry occassionaly about stepping on the line, puling down branches entwined in the line, and extracting it after getting wedged in rocks. :=) William Buchman
just a quick question from a beginner. i’ve read all about weight of fly lines and matching lines to rods etc, but i’ve never heard mention of the breaking strain of fly lines. i guess it’s not important given that the leader will break before the actual line, but i was wondering, all the same, what the breaking strain of a 6 or 7 weight floating line would be?
As others have said that is mostly irrelevant information, however to give you some perspective on it, the floating running line used in shooting heads are about the same size as the belly section of a 2 wt. line and they are typically 30lb. breaking strength. Six or seven wt. lines would be much stronger and the only real problem would be cutting them on a sharp object (cut a line in half on barnacles once, have seen lines cut in half with Stream Cleats) or cutting into the coating enough with a leader knot or other sharp object that the line hinges instead of smoothly transferring energy. Never heard of a fly line just breaking. It’s by far the strongest part of the line system. Hope this helps, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
As with anything having to do with this sport, get the best you can afford. Metz, Spencer, and a half-dozen other growers often sell half capes for about the same price as the next grade down. Unless you are tying up to professional prodution a good #2 grade half will last through several seasons. Everyone resents the initial outlay of $$$ for a good cape, but the payoff is you don’t purchase them very often. Cabela’s and other supply houses also sell decent genetic necks that are quite useful, if limited in size and color.
how bout finding some fishin’ buddies to split some necks with….that how I started out. some times stores will sell you split necks, if you take classes from them…they can always use the other half in class or for production tying. i agree with the other respondent, however, buy the best you can..you’ll be disappointed with the #3’s for drys size 14 and smaller. happy tying,….and DON"T GIVE UP!! there aren’t enuff of us out there! #:)# Larry Medina
Hoffman Super Saddle. Tons of real long feathers 10 down to 18 or so. Can tie two or three flies per feather.
I need some new hackle, I’m getting better at tieing, and the hackle from the kit sucks. I would like to hear some opinions on which Hackle to buy. I am leaning towards Metz grade #3 in Grizzly from Orvis (29 bucks), anyone know of a better deal let me know. Thanks. Scott
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought that a grade three hackle would be better for tying wet flies than dry, but I just read an article that said that they rate the hackle by the count of usable feathers, the main size, and length. I thought that a grade 3 hackle would be softer hackle than a grade 1 or 2 is this true or are there just more usable feathers on a grade 1. Can you tye as good a dry with a grade 3 hackle as you could with grade 1. I am simply a begginer I dont know grade 3 hackles are softer by expierience I just thought that was how it was THANKS! The factors that determine a hackle grade are numerous. A neck or saddle are graded on the number of usable hackles, length of hackle, color, webbiness, stem diameter and uniformity of barbule lengtht. Now the problem arises when you compare hackles from two different companies. A #2 Hoffman may be better than a #1Metz metz. Will a #3 be "softer"? Well yes it may have a little, or a lot, more web depending on the company. A #3 Hoffman will tie a good dry fly, but some of the other companies it may not. The best thing to do is to inspect it carefully before you buy it. Generally it can be said that you will get what you pay for. About 7 years ago I bought my first Hoffman saddle and now I am hooked. I have currently 5 Hoffman saddles and 3 necks. They are the only ones I use for my dries. I know they are kinda expensive and I have a tight budget, but they are worth it. There is nothing more frustrating to me than trying to tie a good fly with a shitty feather. Good Luck, Marty
Hi Marty, I agree. Hoffman is only company that has saddle hackle that is small and stiff for trout dries. In the old days, we always used rooster saddles for wets and rooster necks for dries. Henry Hoffman changed that. Metz saddles are better for wet flies as they don’t seem to be stiff enough for dries. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY
<big snip Then Metz started to become available and Henry started to bring over some of his first "super grizzly". This is one area where materials have only gotten better.
Amen to that. Several months ago a guy came into the local shop carrying grampa’s tying kit. Grampa must have been a serious tyer, the kit had a lot of really nice stuff (jungle cock cape, etc), the tools and thread were all top quality from that era. The dry fly hackles were a different story altogether; the individual feathers were all tapered, the stems were thick (compared to modern hackle), and none of the feathers would tie smaller than about sz 10. Charlie
writes: Amen to that. Several months ago a guy came into the local shop carrying grampa’s tying kit. Grampa must have been a serious tyer, the kit had a lot of really nice stuff (jungle cock cape, etc), the tools and thread were all top quality from that era. The dry fly hackles were a different story altogether; the individual feathers were all tapered, the stems were thick (compared to modern hackle), and none of the feathers would tie smaller than about sz 10.
I’m not yet as old as grandpa, but a size 16 would be the smallest you could find on a neck, they would be less than an inch long, and you would need to use at 3 or 4 feathers to tie one fly. Thought I’d died and gone to heaven when I got my first Metz #2 brown neck. I still have it but there are no feathers left smaller than #10. Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
writes: Hi! I thought that a grade three hackle would be better for tying wet flies than dry, but I just read an article that said that they rate the hackle by the count of usable feathers, the main size, and length. I thought that a grade 3 hackle would be softer hackle than a grade 1 or 2 is this true or are there just more usable feathers on a grade 1. Can you tye as good a dry with a grade 3 hackle as you could with grade 1. I am simply a begginer I dont know grade 3 hackles are softer by expierience I just thought that was how it was THANKS!
Hi Dolph, As others have said here, none of the growers grade on the same standards. But within a particular brand, there is a big difference between a #1 and a #3. Historically (this is all subject to change), the #1 necks had higher feather counts, smaller sizes, less webbing, longer length feathers (more useable feather), more flexible stems, rounder stems, and denser barb counts on the feather (more barbs per inch). Usually the biggest difference between 1 and 2’s is the quantity of small sizes – more of the 20 through 24 sizes on the #1’s. Often the #1’s don’t have useable size 10 or 12 feathers because the stems are too thick. #3 necks often have more webbing than 1’s or 2’s but not always. Most often the biggest difference between 2’s and 3’s is that the stems on the 3’s are stiffer, and sometimes oblong instead of round. This makes them very tough to wind. The grading system is hardly perfect and you can often look through a batch of #2’s and find some that are as good as the #1’s and #’3s that are as good as 2’s. Nothing compares to the Hoffman’s necks. Their #2’s are comparable to just about anyone elses #1’s. The saddles make great dry fly tying feathers but primarily have only 2 sizes on them. The necks have a wide assortment of sizes. Haven’t seen any saddles that will compare with the Hoffman’s for dry flys. For wet flies I still use hen neck feathers. They are shorter and have more rounded tips. These are always webby and fold easily for that swept back look on wets. Used to be able to find them easily and they were cheap. Haven’t seen many in recent years. Get them if you can find them, they are a far better choice for wet flies than rooster necks. We are spoiled today with the necks available. I remember when indian capes were all that you could get. I would take a trip over to Tigard, OR once in a while just to paw through Kaufmann’s capes. Lance and Randall would go over to India each year, select their own stock, and bring it back. Then Metz started to become available and Henry started to bring over some of his first "super grizzly". This is one area where materials have only gotten better. Good Tying, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
When you use TWO on a dry fly, you need to take a size 16 (for example) feather from the right side of a cape and the left side. Mr. G.
Good post. I’m curious about your left/right suggestion. I never make any effort to use feathers from opposite sides of the cape when double wrapping. Could you elaborate more on why this is useful? Regards, Joe.
Hi! I thought that a grade three hackle would be better for tying wet flies than dry, but I just read an article that said that they rate the hackle by the count of usable feathers, the main size, and length. I thought that a grade 3 hackle would be softer hackle than a grade 1 or 2 is this true or are there just more usable feathers on a grade 1. Can you tye as good a dry with a grade 3 hackle as you could with grade 1. I am simply a begginer I dont know grade 3 hackles are softer by expierience I just thought that was how it was THANKS! Dolph
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit DEAR BUZZARD: You happen to ask a question that I must rise too. It is an excellent question. May I add a few thoughts to get this discussion going? The observation is keen that different hackle manufacturers are indeed grading their hackles differently. In fact, I doubt the lot of them ever got together and came up with a standard that rates necks from different companies to the same matching-game. Everyone should give this some thought. Frankly Buzzard, you’re going to have to become a good judge of hackle/necks yourself. There are certain things you must always pay attention too and I’m not about to cover them all here and now. But each tier has certain patterns that require different advantages from feathers. They can be softness, hardness, webbing, lack of webbing, short feathers, long feathers, narrow and wide, the combinations are endless and all feathers have a use in fly tying in one fly or another. Remembe this. Never throw them away. Besides colors (any color) A feather for DRY FLY FISHING is different in desired aspects than hen feathers for wet flies, nymphs, streamers, etc. BUT! A hen feather doesn’t necessarily mean it is a feather of less worth. I (personally) won’t settle for a number two neck when for a few dollars more I will be happier with a number one (1)! The difference between a two and a one can be miles apart even though the numbers are next to each other. Numbers mean different values to different people. In grading feathers (Cock necks) throw the number system out the window. Waste it. It means nothing between manufacturers, BUT with a specific manufacturer such as Hoffman necks, it can be a very reliable numbering system because of one factor. Hoffman Products (now raised in Grand Junction Colorado) are CONSISTANT and TIGHT in quality. Whereas; Metz Necks vary with the wind and each chicken season. Quality always suffers when production increases beyond supervisory abilities. Hate to say it, but its true. A DRY FLY FEATHER must have certain factors for each tier. Length, evenly wide hackles, very little webbing, barbel stiffness, sharp tips (not curled on the ends, etc.) flexiable (not brittle) stems, maturity, (in look and feel) and when you inspect a neck, make sure the skin isn’t brittle so it will crack when bent a little. (Use some gink on the skin back to keep it from drying out. Excellent for this, incidently. And please everyone, don’t slam me for offering a friendly fact) So, basically, today . . . because of neck retail prices, the trend is splitting a Hoffman neck. When you buy a split, you are getting only right handed or left handed bends in feathers. When you use TWO on a dry fly, you need to take a size 16 (for example) feather from the right side of a cape and the left side. So, what I’m saying, is . . . if at all possible, always buy the complete neck if its financially comfortable or possible. I’ll let everyone take it from here. Mr. G. Hi! I thought that a grade three hackle would be better for tying wet flies than dry, but I just read an article that said that they rate the hackle by the count of usable feathers, the main size, and length. I thought that a grade 3 hackle would be softer hackle than a grade 1 or 2 is this true or are there just more usable feathers on a grade 1. Can you tye as good a dry with a grade 3 hackle as you could with grade 1. I am simply a begginer I dont know grade 3 hackles are softer by expierience I just thought that was how it was THANKS! Dolph
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…my leader had such a bad coil memory that if I had gotten a strike I wouldn’t have known it. How do you take the memory out of a leader?
Kevin — Run the leader quickly between your thumb and the index finger several times, each time increasing pressure. At some point the line will start burning your fingers. Back off on the pressure (or speeed) and repeat the exercise a couple more times. Keeping the temperature below the burning point will prevent you from ever overheating the leader. -AR
Thanks for the comments here and in my email. …Now I have to figure out how to tye that little tiny black gnat/mesquito looking bug that they were hitting all around my fly. But alas that is another thread.
I’ll bet those tiny little bugs are midges, a great pattern to use for these is the Griffith’s Gnat which supposedly imitates a bunch of midges all stuck together, and takes about 2 minutes to tie: Hook: Dry fly, size 16-24 (I usually tie mine in size 18) Thread: Black Body: Peacock herl, a few strands wound into a rope then wrapped onto the hook Hackle: Grizzly, palmered the length of the body Have fun… — K.G. (Kat) Cruickshank, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
I am new to flyfishing and need help. Yesterday I went out and practiced on a farm pond that was frozen over just a few days ago.
One thing I’d add to the sage advise of Dan and Bill: In my experience, cold weather/water just makes it that much harder to straighten leader butts, so I like to straighten it the moment I get where I’m going, and sometimes while I’m still in the nice, warm car. If you do it while the leader butt still has some of that road heat in it the job will be much easier. Sometimes I’ll do it once at home and then again when I get to point B, if it’s really cold and I don’t have far to drive. Dave DeLacey Corvallis, Or.
and practiced on a farm pond that was frozen over just a few days ago. I was really just there for the casting practice, but my leader had such a bad coil memory that if I had gotten a strike I wouldn’t have known it. How do you take the memory out of a leader? Thanks in Advance Kevin W. Tharp Addicted angler and newbie fly fisher. Kevin, Most all leaders are made of nylon and this works for nylon. The easiest way is to take the leader in sections in your two hands and stretch it until you feel a slight give and hold that for a fixed number of seconds depending on temperature….. see table below…. what is happening is you are realigning the crystal structure of the nylon. nylon responds to this kind of tensile realignment…. other fibers may not… at 70 degrees F hold for 6 seconds at 60 degrees F hold for 12 seconds at 50 degrees F hold the stretch for 24 seconds at 40 degrees F hold for 48 seconds at 30 degrees…. go home…. The other advantage is this tests any knots you may have. I do not like the idea of holding the nylon in a piece of leather and pulling which does the same thing as above but at a higher temperature…… because the process stands a good chance of roughening and weakening a section of the nylon… tightlines, Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va *the trout teach many, lessons*
Thanks for the comments here and in my email. I got a chance to go out yesterday afternoon and try the stretching. I am amazed at how well it actually works. Everyone who responded had a little different technique, and I will have to develop my own. I didn’t get any strikes, but if I had, I am much more confident I could have set the hook. Now I have to figure out how to tye that little tiny black gnat/mesquito looking bug that they were hitting all around my fly. But alas that is another thread. tight lines Kevin W. Tharp
I am new to flyfishing and need help. Yesterday I went out and practiced on a farm pond that was frozen over just a few days ago. I was really just there for the casting practice, but my leader had such a bad coil memory that if I had gotten a strike I wouldn’t have known it. How do you take the memory out of a leader?
Hi Kevin, This is a common problem with a simple answer. First, anchor the butt end well in one hand, then intertwine it through a few fingers of your other hand and pull. If you let it slip through your fingers slowly it whould heat up and stretch the leader. If you pull too hard, you’ll burn your fingers a bit and stop pulling. If you don’t pull hard enough it won’t heat up. It does need to heat up to stretch and straighten it. As you get to the thinner part of the leader it takes less friction to heat and straighten it. This will straighten your leader without overheating it (bio-feedback, burns your fingers before it burns the leader). WARNING!! Don’t buy, make, or use a leader straightener. It will straighten out the leader just great but will overheat it and drop the breaking strength in half. Been there, done that, don’t recommend it. If you must use one, use it *very slowly*. Hope this helps, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
I am new to flyfishing and need help. Yesterday I went out and practiced on a farm pond that was frozen over just a few days ago. I was really just there for the casting practice, but my leader had such a bad coil memory that if I had gotten a strike I wouldn’t have known it. How do you take the memory out of a leader? Thanks in Advance Kevin W. Tharp Addicted angler and newbie fly fisher.
I am new to flyfishing and need help. Yesterday I went out and practiced on a farm pond that was frozen over just a few days ago. I was really just there for the casting practice, but my leader had such a bad coil memory that if I had gotten a strike I wouldn’t have known it. How do you take the memory out of a leader? Thanks in Advance Kevin W. Tharp Addicted angler and newbie fly fisher.
A smart ass friend of mine says to catch a big Brown trout right off the bat. No, we really like to use the heat from our fingers from pulling the mono slowly between them. With the combination of the heat and the stretching it seems to do some good. With rubber or some other material you might burn or over heat and weaken your mono? Some old leaders might not straighten much. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY
DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc. A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
…..and while this is probably just my imagination George, it has always seemed to me that bass that hang out in rivers are stronger fighters than those that fin lazily in lakes…..for pure excitement, a river smallie that slams your topwater bug would be hard to top! Regards, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc. A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out.
Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG! And to get a HAWG you have to go south. No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake! Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!
overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG! And to get a HAWG you have to go south. No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake! Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!
____YOU make me smile! Thanks Mr. G. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
In California we can say"hawg" in Lake Co.The state record largemouth is over 18 lbs. caught in Hidden Valley reservoir. The reservoir is planted with pure strain Fla. largemouth and may only be fished with permission of a landowner from the surrounding gated community.
So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven. but just tell me when to show up! — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
Hi George I agree, the smallmouth is one of the hardest fighting fish pound for pound I’ve ever caught. Also there are a few in the Snake river near someone I know but shhh! I’ll never say where. Good tying &… — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html
So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven.
but just tell me when to show up! — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG! And to get a HAWG you have to go south. No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake! Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!
So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven.
DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc. A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed. Many other fishermen have noticed this also. So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out.
George, I don’t know where you got your information on "southern" bass. There is a largemouth strain that is called "Florida bass" and have been transplanted to many other parts of the country, even to places outside the South. Are you saying that there is less oxygen in the lakes and rivers in the South than in the northern parts of the country and the causes the bass to become weak and mushy fleshed. Thats crazy. I’ve caught bass from Canada to Florida. Admittedly, a five-pound smallmouth in Canada (which is a whopper there) gives one heck of a fight. But tie into one like that in Dale Hollow (look it up on a map) or on the Holston and tell me about "weak southern fish". Go to Rodman (knowing about southern fish I’m sure that you know where this is) and hook-up with a big largemouth in the stump fields and tell me that he is weak and mushy. As far as the flesh of the Florida bass goes, its as firm and good-tasting as any that I’ve eaten. These are, of course, only my opinions which are based on anecdotal information. What are yours based on? A priori opinions, I suspect. —
About a month ago I asked for info about fishing in N. Georgia. The response was very good and I thank everyone. Well, we just got back from the trip to Ga., and I have to tell ya, if I didn’t see it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t believe it. I discovered the Chatooga River, infamous for being the river where "Deliverence" was filmed. What an absolutely beautiful piece of water! I thought I was back in New England. Fast, cold (61), free stone, clear trout water. There was a hatch of very small caddis, but didn’t see too many rises. In NE I use a cased caddis fly called the Strawman; just spun deer hair trimmed short. Gink it up so it floats. Ga trout like it too. Only had two days on the Chatooga, but managed a couple of nice browns (10-14 in) down-stream from the Rt 76 bridge. Caught a few small rainbows downstream and upstream from the Rt 28 bridge. Great river. I also tried the Chatahootchi ( The Hootch) below Buford Dam. Super cold – like 53; no hatches. But lotsa fog! Dragged a nymph or two, and lobbed a few streamers, but got zilch. The rocks on this river are the slimiest, most slippery I’ve ever encountered! I checked out the Hootch above the lake (iat next trip. Also, I’d like to try the Chatooga just below the NC border. Anyone know how to get there? The roads in Georgia are also terrific, and gas was $1.07 a gallon (it’s $1.50 here in Mass)! Georgia’s not NH or Maine, but it’s great! Good drifts, Dave LaCourse
[snip] The rocks on this river are the slimiest, most slippery I’ve ever encountered!
You don’t even want to ask what that slick stuff is! Also, I’d like to try the Chatooga just below the NC border. Anyone know how to get there?
Go east from the river on Hwy 28 . Hwy 107 will enter from the left. Take 107 north until you pass the state park on the right. Start looking for the sign on the left for Burrells Ford road. It’s a couple of miles down this road to the river. When you get to the river the NC state line is about 4-4 1/2 miles upstream. This part of the river is mainly brown trout water and is not stocked. A good trail goes upstream on the east (South Carolina) side of the river. You can fish on the South Carolina side of the river with a Georgia license, just don’t go up any feeder streams. As an alternate go west from the river on hwy 28. Take the first gravel road to the right. That will bring you in to the opposite side of Burrells Ford. The roads in Georgia are also terrific, and gas was $1.07 a gallon (it’s $1.50 here in Mass)! Georgia’s not NH or Maine, but it’s great!
We don’t tax gas heavy but did you check the price of beer and cigs? Got to make those sinners pay! See ya, John Johnson Atlanta, GA
I might be heading out to Hong Kong – it’s a business trip, but there’s ALWAYS time for fly-fishing. Anyone got any ideas of what the fishing is like out there ? Thanks in advance, Doug
Sorry Doug, I lived there for 10 years and the only fishing I did was in Australia. Some people dangle bits of meat in the harbour and get the occasional bite from something equally disgusting. The fishing is offshore and long gone Simon Hallett
I wouldn’t bother, Doug. I’m a keen fisher myself but I quickly gave up trying during my years out there. Christian Zoega Jessen | Zoega Virksomhedsr
Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak. A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc….. Failing any practical advice as a result of this posting, I think its time to find a pool somewhere and experiment with various scenarios. Any suggestions? B.
Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak. A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc…..
Float fishing without a life jacket is very ill advised (I started to say stupid, but decided to be nice instead). With all the stuff you carry fly fishing you could go right to the bottom very easily. Anybody carry extra spools, split shot, etc? I don’t think waders are that much of a problem, since the water in them will be neutral boyancy, though I’ve not tried that. Try a better quality life jacket under your vest. If you’re wearing a jacket anyway, it should not be that much of a problem. Another solution is inflatable life jackets that have a CO2 cartridge in them. You can even buy fly vests with these built in. And, I saw an integrated fly jacket/life jacket combination in a fly shop the other day which would be a good solution. One thing I wonder about is hyperthermia, though. If you take a dip in a cold water pond in early spring or late fall, how long before you pass out? I sure wouldn’t want to try it. I would think waders would really help here, though, since they are somewhat like the wet suits divers wear. — | Dartmouth College Home: 603-448-5677 | | 6211 Sudikoff Laboratory, Rm 108 | | Hanover, NH 03755 |
Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak. A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc….. Failing any practical advice as a result of this posting, I think its time to find a pool somewhere and experiment with various scenarios. Any suggestions? B.
While it has never happened to me, my thoughts on the subject is the backrest is an inflated bladder on my float tube, so if I suffered a puncture, kick like crazy for the shore, and when the tube is too deflated to support me anymore, free my feet from the tube, hug the backrest, and keep kicking. In my younger days I surfed in the Pacific Ocean, and I wore a neoprene wet suit. The wet suit was fairly thin (for ease of movement), I would estimate about the same thickness of a 2 or 3 mm wader. The wet suit was amazingly buoyant. Enough so that I would float at chin level with no effort. I think a neoprene chest wader would help a lot with floatation also. I have also seen a set of suspenders that inflates with a CO2 cartridge. Maybe if I couldn’t swim I would consider buying it. Darryl
<stuff deleted One thing I wonder about is hyperthermia, though. If you take a dip
^^ I rarely get hyperthermia unless I’m fishing too far down Hot Creek. HypOthermia, now that’s a problem in cold water. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist!) Sean Brennan
Well, it happened to me tonight. As I loaded my float tube, I noticed it was a bit low. I stopped by the gas station on the way out, and filled the tube. However, I did continue to wonder why it was low, so I did keep an eye on the tube level for a while. Well my tube didn’t seem to be loosing air, so naturally my attention turned to the crappie and bass that were hitting tonite. Long about dusk, I suddenly noticed the tube was getting low and -then- noticed the sound of a leak. I wasn’t far off the bank, rarely am when fishing this local gravel pit, so I paddled over to the bank and got out. No reason to panic, the loss of air was audible but fairly slow. As I laid the tube in the back of mmy truck, I could still hear the leak. Altogether I had been out fishing at least 4 hours, I know because I was listening to the Broncos getting beat by the Jets, and the post game show. Sure glad the fish were biting, because the Broncs weren’t. I suppose the radio headphones were the reason I couldn’t hear the leak. I have no clue why or how I got the puncture, probably was due to the tube being about 10 years old. I think I’ll get a new one. My tube is one that has a separate tube for a back rest, so in case of a rapid deflation, I might be able to stay afloat. All things considered, I wouldn’t even consider wearing a life jacket not in the past and not in the future. In some states, a life jacket is req’d, but I don’t think it is in CO. This experience confirmed my belief that any small puncture will deflate very slowly, since the air pressure in a float tube is so low. I would take a good swift slice with a knife to achieve a rapid failure, and that is not likely (at least in places where I fish . Tight Lines, Kevin
Good flies? Try something like a black girdle bug with yellow rubber legs.
I’ve also had good luck with a long shank hook (8-4), white marabou tail ( long) body of gold tinsle chenille, palmer wrapped with dark hackle and very small lead eyes or lead wraps forward… looks like the little minnows that smallies love…. Good Luck / /—– / Bob Bowes |/ | Defense Systems Divison | ^ ^ | Lockheed Sanders Inc | & | Merrimack NH 03045 _/ / (603)-885-6779 ___ /
| I’ll be in West Virginia from 6/7 through 6/13 and | I’ll have three days an a couple of evenings free to | chase smallmouths. I’m staying at Pipestem State | Park on the New River. | | I’ve never tried smallmouths on moving water | before, so any advice will be appreciated. I’ll be | using a fly rod but want advice from all anglers. | I find I can adapt other techniques to fly fishing | quite nicely. I’ve had great luck with Bay stripers, | landlocked stripers, black bass, ocean pearch, rock | fish, etc. Chip, I have fished the upper Potomac quite a bit for smallmouth and we’re basically talking about the same conditions here. The most efficient technique I have found for spring and fall is a two-inch floating Rapala on ultralight spinning tackle. Spinners work well, too, but they get hung up alot in shallow water, which is where the active fish are. The Rapala dives when retrieved and lets you effectively fish topwater and down to a couple of feet. While I’m not a big fan of spin fishing, I usually fish from a canoe where fly casting is a little awkward. To fly fish I usually beach the canoe and wade. I also use an ultralight casting outfit, though the Rapala is a little too light for it. Works fine with a junior size sluggo (no weight added) and a Zara Spook. For fly fishing in the evening, try deer hair bass bugs. I use patterns tied on #4 hooks and a 6-weight line/rod combination. You could go heavier, but since river smallmouth in this area tend to be on the small side, the light tackle adds to the fun. If there’s alot of glare on the water and/or the fish aren’t coming to the surface, I use a muddler minnow with a little lead tied into it. If you want to take the quality over quantity approach and stalk the larger fish, bring an 8-weight rod and proportionately larger flies. If you’ve never caught smallmouth in moving water, you’re in for a treat, especially with light tackle. You’ll find alot of fish going airborne once they’re hooked. Good luck. —
Park on the New River. I’ve never tried smallmouths on moving water before, so any advice will be appreciated. I’ll be using a fly rod but want advice from all anglers.
Depressions, ledges, side pools – all are good holding and cruising zones. With flies, I often made long casts and retrieved in any old way, as long as they followed. Then when they all came running in close, I’d work the fly more carefully, often seeing them dare each other to take the fly, and eventually setting the hook when the big one bit down. Good flies? Try something like a black girdle bug with yellow rubber legs. Thomas Gilg
I’ll be in West Virginia from 6/7 through 6/13 and I’ll have three days an a couple of evenings free to chase smallmouths. I’m staying at Pipestem State Park on the New River. I’ve never tried smallmouths on moving water before, so any advice will be appreciated. I’ll be using a fly rod but want advice from all anglers. I find I can adapt other techniques to fly fishing quite nicely. I’ve had great luck with Bay stripers, landlocked stripers, black bass, ocean pearch, rock fish, etc.