Anybody know anything about this area. I seem to get to be there over the 4th of July with the in-laws. Is there any fly fishing in the general area? Trout preferred- but I understand there are bass in the lake proper. john
fishing in this lake is great smallmouth,largemouth,trout,perch and a few others as well i have maps of this lake if you like the fishing is very good in this lake
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anybody know anything about this area. I seem to get to be there over the 4th of July with the in-laws. Is there any fly fishing in the general area? Trout preferred- but I understand there are bass in the lake proper. john
Anybody know anything about this area. I seem to get to be there over the 4th of July with the in-laws. Is there any fly fishing in the general area? Trout preferred- but I understand there are bass in the lake proper. john
You can get information at: http://www.wa.gov/wdfw/fishcorn.htm and the latest lake and streamflow data at: http://wa.water.usgs.gov/rivers Good luck. –Scott–
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My home river has been alternating on a daily basis between running high and muddy and high and clear with an amber tinge. When it is running amber, the fishing is pretty good, but with the heavy flows, traditional dry techniques aren’t productive. In this heavy flowing, colored water, I’ve been having good success with a technique that was shown to me by an old rancher about twenty years ago. The technique is a fun one and is often productive when the trout are reluctant to come up for traditionally fished dries. It’s a technique geared for fishing fast, heavy water. I use it mainly in pocket water, but it also works on the streamside edges of heavy, deep water and in around any obstructions in deep strong runs. The flies I use are a high floating dry with a wet fly or soft hackle on a dropper of about 2 feet. I generally use a dry about two sizes bigger than I normally would and use a fly two sizes smaller than the dry as a dropper. The dropper is optional but will result in more hookups. I’ll describe the technique for a pocket water situation where I mainly use it. Casts can be short or long, but since you can approach fish closely in pocket water, often surprisingly close, and short casts give you much more control, I use casts of under fifteen feet 90% of the time. The only time I use longer casts is when the water is too deep or heavy to get to an area I want to fish. I try to fish an area thoroughly, even spots where there doesn’t appear to be any rocks that could break up the current, but I concentrate the casts to run through any visible areas where larger rocks provide calm water cushions. I generally a cast up and across stream and immediately raise the rod tip to lift all the fly line off the water and get direct contact with the fly. I then begin dragging and skipping the fly across the current. I vary the action of the fly but the key is lots of action. When the flies get in a position just below me, I begin maneuvering them through each small pocket I can find. I skitter them upstream and down, back and forth through any pockets below. This technique will bring good fish to the surface that ignore more placid, traditional techniques. The quick moving flies result in strikes that are aggressive, vicious, slashing, fast, exciting etc. and you will get many more misses than hookups. Setting the hook at the strike usually results in pulling the fly away from the trout. Strikes need to be delayed but because of the tight line, the fish will usually hook themselves. Since there are a large percentage of missed fish with this technique, the feeding locations and holding areas that are revealed, need to be fished again. Since most of these missed strikes, refusals etc. are to the larger, more visible dry, the next thing I do is to try to maneuver the small dropper through the area trying to skip it across the surface. If this doesn’t work, I do a number of traditional drag free drifts through the area, paying close attention for hits on the dropper. This technique is definitely a kick when it’s working. It elicits strikes from trout more akin to those of a bass or a pike to a popper than a typical sedate sip to a dry. I tend to ignore the technique when the fish are rising to more typical techniques but maybe I shouldn’t. Willi Interesting technique Willi. I think most of us have used a similar
approach for pocket water, but not with a dropper, and not with a systematic plan. For me its been an approach used out of necessity at times for fishing pocket water, especially casting over currents or boulders. I’ll try it next opportunity. Pat K Before you buy.
My home river has been alternating on a daily basis between running high and muddy and high and clear with an amber tinge. When it is running amber, the fishing is pretty good, but with the heavy flows, traditional dry techniques aren’t productive. In this heavy flowing, colored water, I’ve been having good success with a technique that was shown to me by an old rancher about twenty years ago. The technique is a fun one and is often productive when the trout are reluctant to come up for traditionally fished dries. It’s a technique geared for fishing fast, heavy water. I use it mainly in pocket water, but it also works on the streamside edges of heavy, deep water and in around any obstructions in deep strong runs. The flies I use are a high floating dry with a wet fly or soft hackle on a dropper of about 2 feet. I generally use a dry about two sizes bigger than I normally would and use a fly two sizes smaller than the dry as a dropper. The dropper is optional but will result in more hookups. I’ll describe the technique for a pocket water situation where I mainly use it. Casts can be short or long, but since you can approach fish closely in pocket water, often surprisingly close, and short casts give you much more control, I use casts of under fifteen feet 90% of the time. The only time I use longer casts is when the water is too deep or heavy to get to an area I want to fish. I try to fish an area thoroughly, even spots where there doesn’t appear to be any rocks that could break up the current, but I concentrate the casts to run through any visible areas where larger rocks provide calm water cushions. I generally a cast up and across stream and immediately raise the rod tip to lift all the fly line off the water and get direct contact with the fly. I then begin dragging and skipping the fly across the current. I vary the action of the fly but the key is lots of action. When the flies get in a position just below me, I begin maneuvering them through each small pocket I can find. I skitter them upstream and down, back and forth through any pockets below. This technique will bring good fish to the surface that ignore more placid, traditional techniques. The quick moving flies result in strikes that are aggressive, vicious, slashing, fast, exciting etc. and you will get many more misses than hookups. Setting the hook at the strike usually results in pulling the fly away from the trout. Strikes need to be delayed but because of the tight line, the fish will usually hook themselves. Since there are a large percentage of missed fish with this technique, the feeding locations and holding areas that are revealed, need to be fished again. Since most of these missed strikes, refusals etc. are to the larger, more visible dry, the next thing I do is to try to maneuver the small dropper through the area trying to skip it across the surface. If this doesn’t work, I do a number of traditional drag free drifts through the area, paying close attention for hits on the dropper. This technique is definitely a kick when it’s working. It elicits strikes from trout more akin to those of a bass or a pike to a popper than a typical sedate sip to a dry. I tend to ignore the technique when the fish are rising to more typical techniques but maybe I shouldn’t. Willi
Wonder if there would be a level of interest in a news feed with pictures concerning RV’ing and camping. I would imagine that The users of this newsfeed have some photos they would like to "show off".
Right on! If anyone has pictures to post, please do so. I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix! Don
Right on! If anyone has pictures to post, please do so. I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums….
Uh, no, please don’t post them here. Binaries (photos, music, etc.) are not allowed on most newsgroups, including this one. Here are two appropriate methods of sharing pictures with folks on a newsgroup: 1. Post them on a web page and then give the URL for anyone who is interested. 2. Indicate that you have them and that anyone who wants to see them should request them from you by private e-mail (not a newsgroup post, please). You can then send them copies by e-mail. Distributing them this way keeps the rest of the newsgroup from having to download them. (Many newsreader programs don’t translate binary files anyway, so all most folks see is many lines of garbage.) Thanks. GB in NC
Right on! If anyone has pictures to post, please do so. I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix! Don
WHOA,NELLY, git offa that horse! Pullease DO NOT post pictures in text-only NG’s! Will KD3XR —- the Curmudgeon of Sill Hill In order to become the master, the politician poses as the servant. Charles de Gaulle
A better solution is to use a site such as PhotoPoint, or Zing, that offers free uploading and storage of the photo’s, in albums, with the ability to send notices to those who you want to view them. — Flutterby
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right on! If anyone has pictures to post, please do so. I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix! Don
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right on! If anyone has pictures to post, please do so. I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix! Don WHOA,NELLY, git offa that horse! Pullease DO NOT post pictures in text-only NG’s!
True. It might be worth the bother to create another newsgroup for RV picture posting, the rec.outdoors.fishing.fly newsgroup did that a few years back. That would give a way for anyone to easily post and share pictures without learning how to create a website. Only trouble with a binaries newsgroup is that they all get plastered with spam from porn sites unless they are strictly moderated.
As a beginner with the fly, and a resident of Scotland, I get confused about the different styles between USA and UK fly fishing. It seems that USA rods are much shorter (8 to 10 feet?) than UK rods (10 to 14 feet?) Is this just a matter of fashion or is there a good reason for it? Plus, I need to know what weight of line / rod to go for- I will be fishing for brown trout of around 0.75 to 1 pound, plus sea trout of up to around 3 pounds, the odd Arctic Charr of up to 2 pounds, plus the (rarer) chance of a salmon- I guess I’m talking about two rods, aren’t I? The fishing will be on small rivers (say 10m wide), streams (3m-5m wide) and hill lochs, big and small, shore and boat. What weight should I go for? * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
As a beginner with the fly, and a resident of Scotland, I get confused about the different styles between USA and UK fly fishing. It seems that USA rods are much shorter (8 to 10 feet?) than UK rods (10 to 14 feet?) Is this just a matter of fashion or is there a good reason for it? Plus, I need to know what weight of line / rod to go for- I will be fishing for brown trout of around 0.75 to 1 pound, plus sea trout of up to around 3 pounds, the odd Arctic Charr of up to 2 pounds, plus the (rarer) chance of a salmon- I guess I’m talking about two rods, aren’t I? The fishing will be on small rivers (say 10m wide), streams (3m-5m wide) and hill lochs, big and small, shore and boat. What weight should I go for?
Hi Paul, in the USA much shorter rods are used for nearly all fishing. For general fly-fishing in Scotland I would go for an 8 foot 6inch 5 weight, or a nine foot five weight if you fish lochs regularly. This will handle all the fish you mention, cover nearly all situations adequately, allow reasonable boat fishing, and is not too heavy for delicate fishing. Very short rods are only advantageous on small over grown streams. If you hook a salmon on this rod you may still be able to land it, but it would be folly to use such a rod deliberately for salmon. For the Salmon you really need another rod. Tight lines ! Mike Connor
As a beginner with the fly, and a resident of Scotland, I get confused about the different styles between USA and UK fly fishing. It seems that USA rods are much shorter (8 to 10 feet?) than UK rods (10 to 14 feet?)
Hi Paul, If you’re fly fishing in Scotland, mostly for trout. I would start with a 9 to 9.5 foot rod, rated for a 6 or 7 weight line. Even if your tastes develop such that you eventually want other rods (believe me, you probably will!), you will always find plenty of uses for such a rod in your armoury. Daiwa makes decent rods to this spec; so does Reddington if you want to spend a bit more and get a worthwhile guarantee. A nine foot 6/7 weight is light enough for river dry fly and wet fly fishing, yet has enough steam to throw a team of flies on a windy loch, or a longshank sea trout lure (streamer). Nine foot gives enough length to control the line and flies properly in a number of techniques, while not being so long that it will tire you. Above ten feet and the leverage starts to be noticeable. Traditionally, Americans have tended to use shorter rods than we do in the British Isles. With modern carbon fibre, there is not much case for rods of under eight feet, unless for fishing under overhanging trees (even then, the case is often overstated or spurious). The advantages of carbon fly rods in the nine to ten foot range are manifest and worthwhile. Americans have retained a sentimental affection for split cane (bamboo) fly rods. Cane rods are more labour intensive to make than modern carbon rods and are generally considerably more expensive. The material is heavier and ’slower’ than modern carbon fibre. A cane rod gets pretty ponderous if it is much OVER eight feet long. Forget cane as a first fly rod. Fly rods of over 12 feet are almost always double handed salmon rods, used for the various Spey casts, etc. They are not suitable for general trout fly fishing. You might be interested to look at the NG: uk.rec.fishing.game Tight Lines, Tony Deacon
great flyfishing in duck mountain prov park .rainbow,brooks, splake, brown, pike, arctic char.five hours from winnipeg manitoba canada by for more information .belly boat works best up here.
Kennedy) writes: great flyfishing in duck mountain prov park .rainbow,brooks, splake, brown, pike, arctic char.five hours from winnipeg manitoba canada by for more information .belly boat works best up here.
Why would I want to fish in some dumb park like that when I’ve got access to the Au Sable, Manistee, Pidgeon, Jordan, Betsy, Escanaba, Pierre Marquette…unless of course it was another of the bullshit Spams trying to lie to us again. Wayne Knight Geneva IL
I want to get a book that contains fly fishing knots for both fresh and salt water use. I know that lefty kreh and mark sosin have a book out called practical fishing knots and practical fishing knots II. What is the difference between these books. which one is better for fly fishing knots? any response would be appreciated. Dave
Practical Fishing Knots II is the 2nd edition of Practical Fishing Knots. It’s an excellent book. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to get a book that contains fly fishing knots for both fresh and salt water use. I know that lefty kreh and mark sosin have a book out called practical fishing knots and practical fishing knots II. What is the difference between these books. which one is better for fly fishing knots? any response would be appreciated. Dave
No offense to Lefty and Mark, they are tops. However, their books on knots, while best sellers are sort of twisted. Just try tying a Bimini twist for the first time with one knee as stated in their instructions. You can get better basic info for the majority of knots for free by writing Ande Monofilament, 1310 53rd St. West Palm Beach, FL 33407…. Much better instructions. Bob Elliott, Rochester, NY (no connection to Ande) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to get a book that contains fly fishing knots for both fresh and salt water use. I know that lefty kreh and mark sosin have a book out called practical fishing knots and practical fishing knots II. What is the difference between these books. which one is better for fly fishing knots? any response would be appreciated. Dave
Knots on the Web (Peter Suber) is a great site with eveything you could ever want to know about all kinds of knots. It’s one of those pages that makes you say "WOW, I had no idea THIS many people were fascinated by KNOTS!" From there, you can find specific pages that meet your needs and interests. Try using your browser to search the page for the word "fish" if you don’t feel like scan the page manually for fishing-related knot pages. There are several that are fly fishing-specific. In case your news reader doesn’t support html, the URL is: http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm Hope it helps, Joe Bollinger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to get a book that contains fly fishing knots for both fresh and salt water use. I know that lefty kreh and mark sosin have a book out called practical fishing knots and practical fishing knots II. What is the difference between these books. which one is better for fly fishing knots? any response would be appreciated. Dave
I’m planning a steelhead trip on the Eel last week in January. Would appreciate any advice, including flies to use, etc. Thanks, David
I’m planning a steelhead trip on the Eel last week in January. Would appreciate any advice, including flies to use, etc. Thanks, David
Call the Eureka Fly Shop in Eureka. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY
Correction, give the wrong site, try the following for northern california coast rivers. http://www.northcoastweb.com/fishing/ Mike
I’m planning a steelhead trip on the Eel last week in January. Would appreciate any advice, including flies to use, etc. Thanks, David
Cast on over to Northern California Fly Fishing for some good info. http://www2.ecst.csuchico.edu:80/~jschlich/Flyfish/flyfish.html Mike
Does anyone know what is available in hip waders for preschoolers and where they can be purchased? Thanks,Paul and his little buddy Zack.
Does anyone know what is available in hip waders for preschoolers and
where they can be purchased? Thanks,Paul and his little buddy Zack.
Oh, sorry, I misunderstood the subject. I though you were talking about waders that would be hip to kids. You know, they would probably be 8 sizes too big and hang down below the underwear? David B.
Does anyone know what is available in hip waders for preschoolers and
where they can be purchased? Thanks,Paul and his little buddy Zack.
Hi Zack and his big bud Paul- Call Ron Pylki in Eugene Oregon at (503) 773-2181 or (503) 779-8008. He used to specialize in this kind of application through his company NeoSports. I haven’t heard from NeoSports in a while and am afraid they might no longer be in business. Even if they’re defunct, Ron should still have all the dies and stuff and be able to whip up a pair for cheap. -Ralph —
Hi all, thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job spooking trout even in my felt soles… thanks, g.
thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job spooking trout even in my felt soles…
Easy answer — get the cleated felts. Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again. So what if they eat other fish? If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).
thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job spooking trout even in my felt soles… Easy answer — get the cleated felts. Dan
Big ditto. You’ll wonder what took you so long.
: : thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, : : i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never : : worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job : : spooking trout even in my felt soles… If the water is fast enough to warrant cleats, I can’t imagine that a loss of stealth from cleats would be a problem. Fast water over rocks is a prescription for turbulence, and the energy generated from turbulence will overpower (and dissipate) anything added from the cleats. A bit like our inability to see the stars in the day time. They are still there, but the energy from the sun swamps them. Slow water will be different. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher – http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry | That’s Idaho, not Iowa. | ad hominem University of Idaho | Upper Left Hand Corner. | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343 | No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem
Let me register a negative vote on the cleats (the sort that are imbedded in the felt). I hope folks will stay away from these. They are destructive of the bottom, make a mess of a drift boat, are unusable in a raft, and are very inconsiderate to wear anywhere outside of the water (like in a car or into a flyshop). If you must wade where you have to have cleats to stay upright, use a pear of slip-on stream cleats. You can then take them off when they are not needed. Lyman
Your points are well taken, but I thought the warning about using them in boats had already been voiced. Looking back it wasn’t, but the tone of the thread was about wading, not drift fishing. You don’t really need them to stand up in boats anyhow just in the river. 8^. That was supposed to be a little humor, but you are absolutely right about wearing them in boats. Most drift boat guides I know won’t allow them in the boat and for good reason. I’ve used the Stream Cleats. Stream Cleats can be removed, but how often do you see people remove them? And boy do they cut fly lines up easily when they are new and the edges are sharp. If you get them tight enough to stay on your feet when you need them to, they are not easy to remove and most people don’t. Certainly not likely to pull them off and put them back on numerous times a day. Korkers are much easier to remove, they just weigh a ton. I have a pair of Korkers that I used for years, and they are still in the bottom of my wader bag in case someone else needs them. For my conditions (just go ahead and try to wade the Pit River in CA or the North Umpqua in OR without them) the studded felts are the best choice. The operative phrase is "my conditions". Thanks for the reminder of other’s fishing conditions, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again. So what if they eat other fish? If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).
thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job spooking trout even in my felt soles… Easy answer — get the cleated felts. Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
Let me register a negative vote on the cleats (the sort that are imbedded in the felt). I hope folks will stay away from these. They are destructive of the bottom, make a mess of a drift boat, are unusable in a raft, and are very inconsiderate to wear anywhere outside of the water (like in a car or into a flyshop). If you must wade where you have to have cleats to stay upright, use a pear of slip-on stream cleats. You can then take them off when they are not needed. Lyman
thinking about buying a pair of danner wading boots… for $5 more, i can get them with cleats already built into the soles… I’ve never worn cleats before, stealth is not my concern since a do a fine job spooking trout even in my felt soles…
We sell about 50/50, felt versus studded felt. The studs are popular in large rivers and may increase felt life. On small streams, felt is more popular and not so " skippy " on dry rocks.
I live in Bozeman, Montana and fish in some waters that are difficult to wade. I am a Stream Cleat fan, too. They are actually made in Livingston, Montana. The nice thing about them is that you can bring them along on a float trip, and just slip them on and off. I’ve guided here for 22 years, and I don’t like folks to wear them in my drift boat, either. I do like the extra stability they provide and the confidence they give the angler which results in them being able to wade into good fishing positions and reach more fish. Add a wading staff to your "handling package, too". Dave Kumlien, Montana Troutfitters Orvis Shop, Bozeman, MT http://www.gomontana.com/Business/Trout/trout.html
Hi Mike, Try Rick or Wally at On The Fly in Monkton/Hereford. They can steer you in the right direction on both salt and freshwater fly fishing. JV
Capt Brady Bounds 1-800-400-3790 gave an excellent presentation at a recent fly fishing show and is very knowledgable.