boy what a way to ruin my enjoyment of fishing reports. Blah! Memphis Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Gang, I looked out the widow this morning and knew it was going to waaaaaay too nice not to head out and do some fishing. I checked the tides and the afternoon was the ticket, I could get out around 3:30, get the last few hours of incoming and then catch the first few hours of outgoing, the perfect tide. Did not have to go far in the Choptank to find the breaking fish everywhere. Got the long rod out and started catching. Most fish were 16-18, I did get a few keepers. I ran into a few other Tidal Fish guys, John T and Jimbo who joined in the action. After about an hour of that I decided to go hunt some bigger fish in shallow water. The perfect day for it, light breeze and air temp. I headed off in the Choptank and as soon as I pulled up and cast my fly I hooked up. Caught steady for about 2 1/2 hours working the shorelines, most fish were 14-17 inches. Then just as I was getting ready to work my way back in towards the Tred Avon I got a huge hit, the fly just stopped, I thought I was stuck on rocks, I looked down and it was about 2 feet deep, figured I caught a rock, then it pulled back, then an instant later the line goes free…..”Big Fish”, I say to myself. Make the same cast…strip..strip..strip..pause..BANG! I set the hook, feels like a good fish, but I figure it is a runt with a lot of energy, then like a freight train it takes off, I cleared the line and got him on the reel. After a good fight, some juggling and Rest of the report is posted at TidalFish.com (http://www.TidalFish.com) Exact URL to my report is:
http://www.tidalfish.com/boards2/viewthread.asp?forum=AMB_AP332285722… 15 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good Fishing!
Hi Gang, I looked out the widow this morning and knew it was going to waaaaaay too nice not to head out and do some fishing. I checked the tides and the afternoon was the ticket, I could get out around 3:30, get the last few hours of incoming and then catch the first few hours of outgoing, the perfect tide. Did not have to go far in the Choptank to find the breaking fish everywhere. Got the long rod out and started catching. Most fish were 16-18, I did get a few keepers. I ran into a few other Tidal Fish guys, John T and Jimbo who joined in the action. After about an hour of that I decided to go hunt some bigger fish in shallow water. The perfect day for it, light breeze and air temp. I headed off in the Choptank and as soon as I pulled up and cast my fly I hooked up. Caught steady for about 2 1/2 hours working the shorelines, most fish were 14-17 inches. Then just as I was getting ready to work my way back in towards the Tred Avon I got a huge hit, the fly just stopped, I thought I was stuck on rocks, I looked down and it was about 2 feet deep, figured I caught a rock, then it pulled back, then an instant later the line goes free
I’ll be in Sydney the end of Feb and should be able to manage at least one free day for fishing. I’ll be staying by Sydney Harbour near the Convention center. Any suggestions on where to go and what equipment to bring? Thanks. — Charlie…
You might try this link, should give you all the info required. One of the members ( John Knight? ) used to subscribe here, perhaps he is still around? http://www.sydneyflyrodders.com.au/index.html TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be in Sydney the end of Feb and should be able to manage at least one free day for fishing. I’ll be staying by Sydney Harbour near the Convention center. Any suggestions on where to go and what equipment to bring? Thanks. — Charlie…
You might try this link, should give you all the info required. One of the members ( John Knight? ) used to subscribe here, perhaps he is still around? http://www.sydneyflyrodders.com.au/index.html
Thanks, I did look there first. Not knowing the area, some of the places could be 30 minutes or 30 days away from where I will be<g. I do recall John but haven’t seen him post in a while. — Charlie…
Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? Sounds like a good product to me but can’t find any (maybe that means it’s not such a good product idea). I am considering the Cabela’s Three Forks Featherlights, anyone have experience/comment on these or recommendations for other brands. Must be Y2K compliant. jim
Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? Sounds like a good product to me but can’t find any (maybe that means it’s not such a good product idea).
The only waist high waders I have seen have been either breathable or neoprene. — Charlie…
Jim, I use featherweight stocking foot hip waders, but have never seen any Waist High’s. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? Sounds like a good product to me but can’t find any (maybe that means it’s not such a good product idea). I am considering the Cabela’s Three Forks Featherlights, anyone have experience/comment on these or recommendations for other brands. Must be Y2K compliant. jim
I use a pair from a company called OS systems. I love ‘em, but don’t know where you can get them. Maybe try Henry’s Fork Anglers, a friends nephew used to guide for them and might have gotten em from there ….. Tight Lines, Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? Sounds like a good product to me but can’t find any (maybe that means it’s not such a good product idea). I am considering the Cabela’s Three Forks Featherlights, anyone have experience/comment on these or recommendations for other brands. Must be Y2K compliant. jim
Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders
Red Ball used to make them, (maybe still do),. Try Hook & Hackle. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"
I Have contacted several fly shops and outfitters and no one has ever seen waist high featherlights, so I guess they don’t exist. I did go to Cabela’s web site and found last years Chest feathers on sale for $24.00. This years catalogue lists them for $49.00 with neoprene socks and improved stitching. Does anyone have the older ones, was there a problem with the feet? $24.00 to me seems like a hell of deal, unless the feet leak, then they ain’t worth 24cents. jim
Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders?
I don’t know which brand they were, but I recently saw some waist high waders at the Bass Pro Shop in Gurnee Illinois. Bass Pro Shop does a lot of catalog sales and I’d be very much surprised if they don’t have a web site. Might be a good place to start looking.
I made a command decision and ordered the closeout featherlight stockingfoot waders from Cabela’s for $24.00 (price seems too good to be true). My wife is a pro with the sewing machine, when I get em I’m going to have her look at the possibility of lopping off the tops and installing belt loops. Probably another one of my brilliant ideas that will meet with utter failure. jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? I don’t know which brand they were, but I recently saw some waist high waders at the Bass Pro Shop in Gurnee Illinois. Bass Pro Shop does a lot of catalog sales and I’d be very much surprised if they don’t have a web site. Might be a good place to start looking.
Damn good idea Wolfgang. I had been thinking about the belt and didn’t really like it, the suspenders is a far far better idea. My wife will look at both options. Having never had featherlights before, you may be right and all I have to do is roll em down. jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I made a command decision and ordered the closeout featherlight stockingfoot waders from Cabela’s for $24.00 (price seems too good to be true). My wife is a pro with the sewing machine, when I get em I’m going to have her look at the possibility of lopping off the tops and installing belt loops. Probably another one of my brilliant ideas that will meet with utter failure. It should work Jim, but why bother? It’s easy enough to roll down the top of the waders in warmer weather. The roll may look a bit odd but it should tighten the fabric enough around your waist to make a belt unnecessary. And then in colder conditions you still have a full length set of waders. If you do go ahead with your plan I would recommend suspenders rather than the belt for a couple of reasons. If you are concerned about heat, suspenders would leave the top open to provide a bit of circulation unlike a belt which will effectively seal the top and thus hold in heat. I think suspenders are a more positive way to hold the top in place. Belts can slide up and down. Belts also rub against the fabric and will cause more wear. Good luck.
I made a command decision and ordered the closeout featherlight stockingfoot waders from Cabela’s for $24.00 (price seems too good to be true). My wife is a pro with the sewing machine, when I get em I’m going to have her look at the possibility of lopping off the tops and installing belt loops. Probably another one of my brilliant ideas that will meet with utter failure.
It should work Jim, but why bother? It’s easy enough to roll down the top of the waders in warmer weather. The roll may look a bit odd but it should tighten the fabric enough around your waist to make a belt unnecessary. And then in colder conditions you still have a full length set of waders. If you do go ahead with your plan I would recommend suspenders rather than the belt for a couple of reasons. If you are concerned about heat, suspenders would leave the top open to provide a bit of circulation unlike a belt which will effectively seal the top and thus hold in heat. I think suspenders are a more positive way to hold the top in place. Belts can slide up and down. Belts also rub against the fabric and will cause more wear. Good luck.
try Cabelas… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe they’re not available. Has anyone seen Featherlight Waist High stocking foot waders? I don’t know which brand they were, but I recently saw some waist high waders at the Bass Pro Shop in Gurnee Illinois. Bass Pro Shop does a lot of catalog sales and I’d be very much surprised if they don’t have a web site. Might be a good place to start looking.
I Have contacted several fly shops and outfitters and no one has ever seen waist high featherlights, so I guess they don’t exist. I did go to Cabela’s web site and found last years Chest feathers on sale for $24.00.
I don’t know what mine are but I did get a cheapy pair of waders from Cabelas a few years ago for that price. It’s nylon fabric with PVC coating on the inside. The seams looked like they were heat pressed together (no stitching). They leaked after the 3rd day of fishing. Mu
Well I received the chest featherlights from Cabela’s today and now know why they were so cheap and a closeout item. "What a Piece-O-C**p. 10 minutes later they were in the return mail back to Cabela’s. I thought $24.00 was too good to be true. The feet of these waders are beyond description… Maybe their new sewn neoprene foot waders are better. They were light…. jim
Jim: Apart from any other consideration, make it a point to get neoprene foot waders. There is a world of difference using those compared with lightweights that have feet out of the lightweight wader material. If you can do it, spring for the "low end" Orvis or Hodgman breathables – you won’t regret it. Somewhat over $100, as I recall. Mark Faulkner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well I received the chest featherlights from Cabela’s today and now know why they were so cheap and a closeout item. "What a Piece-O-C**p. 10 minutes later they were in the return mail back to Cabela’s. I thought $24.00 was too good to be true. The feet of these waders are beyond description… Maybe their new sewn neoprene foot waders are better. They were light…. jim
Check the Orvis Website. They have the 2mm stretch neoprene waders on sale. DP – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim: Apart from any other consideration, make it a point to get neoprene foot waders. There is a world of difference using those compared with lightweights that have feet out of the lightweight wader material. If you can do it, spring for the "low end" Orvis or Hodgman breathables – you won’t regret it. Somewhat over $100, as I recall. Mark Faulkner Well I received the chest featherlights from Cabela’s today and now know why they were so cheap and a closeout item. "What a Piece-O-C**p. 10 minutes later they were in the return mail back to Cabela’s. I thought $24.00 was too good to be true. The feet of these waders are beyond description… Maybe their new sewn neoprene foot waders are better. They were light…. jim
… You were superb, magnificent It is gratification itself to see one’s work carried on …
I am humbled and honored. I’ve never had reason to expect or to believe myself worthy of such hortatory from the reigning master of malevolent missives. Such is life, C’est la vie. — Ken Fortenberry
Daytripper Im sorry but I have to step in here. At my very best I don’t think I could muster such focus, such disdain, such raw anger in a mere one-post, 3 para, performance. This was a notable performance by Ken F. (snip) Dave
agreed, david. i’ll have to say, however, that i will have to go with a 9.7. the cliche replaced, and there she would have been: the first post i have ever seen on roff that i might not have sent. amazing, really amazing. wayno the humbled. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Wayno, Yes. That lad has a talent from on high, and a real future in the field. In some sense the scoring is really inadequate for such high level performances. The problem being there has been no serious attempt to recalibrate the various factors since the advent of talk radio. A revision surely is overdue. On another matter; has the Subcommittee on Southern Appellations had a chance to act on the referral in the matter of the term "redneck" per my post of yesterday, or will you be giving a Summary Ruling from the Chair? Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – agreed, david. i’ll have to say, however, that i will have to go with a 9.7. the cliche replaced, and there she would have been: the first post i have ever seen on roff that i might not have sent. amazing, really amazing. wayno the humbled.
Wayno Excellent! We have our official ruling. Matter settled. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wayno, SNIP SNIP On another matter; has the Subcommittee on Southern Appellations had a chance to act on the referral in the matter of the term "redneck" per my post of yesterday, or will you be giving a Summary Ruling from the Chair? Dave accustomed as i am to operating as an enlightened despot, the latter methodology will be utilized. "redneck" is not a "term". that noun implies a condition capable of description by the english language. "redneck", rather, is "being" a way you’ll never know, unless you *is* one. wayno, who ain’t one.
Wayno, Yes. That lad has a talent from on high, and a real future in the field. In some sense the scoring is really inadequate for such high level performances. The problem being there has been no serious attempt to recalibrate the various factors since the advent of talk radio. A revision surely is overdue. On another matter; has the Subcommittee on Southern Appellations had a chance to act on the referral in the matter of the term "redneck" per my post of yesterday, or will you be giving a Summary Ruling from the Chair? Dave
accustomed as i am to operating as an enlightened despot, the latter methodology will be utilized. "redneck" is not a "term". that noun implies a condition capable of description by the english language. "redneck", rather, is "being" a way you’ll never know, unless you *is* one. wayno, who ain’t one.
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If it inhaled it deep and you had to fight him a long time, make it dinner. 2 weeks ago, had a trout inhale the Mepps deep, and was bleeding. Cleaned and Bar-B-Qued, he was tasty. If is not bleeding and looks like it will survive, just cut the line as close to the hook as possible. Bill
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
FWIW, I use barbless hooks only, which makes hook removal simple. Also, you won’t lose fish if you keep you line tight during the battle. In the event that a fish has swallowed the hook deeply, I don’t even bother trying to remove it. I just snip the line as close as possible to the hook itself. The fish can survive with a hook in it. I once caught a small trout that swallowed my hook. I kept it figuring it would die if I released it. When I cleaned it, I found a treble hook stuck in it’s throat. Even with that hook in there, it was still eating. Also, I feel it’s important to not have a fish out of the water for longer than say 30 or 40 seconds. I also "handle" fish after I wet my hands with water so as no to remove the slime coat. Obviously, these are just my opinions. Good fishing to you! Bry — "My worst day at work is still better than my best day steelhead fishing"
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
: Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang : fish inhaled the hook. : What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to : shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both : times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the : fish. : Any suggestions? I have been catching some small catfish and panfish lately and I have been using a technique that has helped with swallowed hooks. I started using short shanked hooks and bending the barbs down. I use forceps to carefully go in though the gills and a little twist easily gets the hook loose. Then the hook can be removed though the mouth with the forceps. Forceps are cheaper at "Headshops" than at tackle stores.
Most hooks are made of low grade metal and actually rust quite quickly. Depending on how far down the hook is, often very little damage or harm ensues. Several years ago, I caught a little brookie. When I removed my hook from the fish’s mouth, I discovered that there was another hook in the fish’s throat. It was obviously too low for the previous angler to safely remove it, so I guess he cut his line as close as possible to the hook. The interesting thing was that most of the shaft of the hook had actually rusted away. There was just a small length remaining above the curve of the hook. It obviously did not interfere with the fish’s ability to eat or survive. It put up a fiesty fight, typical of brook trout! 
Ian Scott http://flyfishing.about.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
If the hook was bronze, the acids in the fish will disolve the hook. You did the right thing V.B.
: Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang : fish inhaled the hook. : What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to : shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both : times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the : fish. : Any suggestions? : Thanks. : AC —
Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
+AD4- and ended up cutting the line and releasing the +AD4-fish. +AD4- I think you just answered the question yourself. Sometimes you have to cut your losses and pay the price. You only do dammage by trying to retreive a swallowed hook. If the hooks are swallowed but visible as a rule, you could try flattening the barb, but some would argue this to be detrimental. Others won’t. I have no opinion as I have never tried barbless fishing myself. Just a suggestion. Dan in the bush……
I used to catch wraases with hook and line that were sold live for saltwater aquariums. About 50% of the fish would swallow the hook so deep you couldn’t even see it. I just cut the line and put them in the live well. At the end of the day, usually all the hooks were laying in the bottom of the well. Capt. Jeff Kona, Hawaii http://home1.gte.net/jfrogers
+ADw-7t6ds0+ACQ-l86+ACQ-1+AEA-fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net+AD4-… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -+AD4- and ended up cutting the line and releasing the +AD4-fish. +AD4- I think you just answered the question yourself. Sometimes you have to cut your losses and pay the price. You only do dammage by trying to retreive a swallowed hook. If the hooks are swallowed but visible as a rule, you could try flattening the barb, but some would argue this to be detrimental. Others won’t. I have no opinion as I have never tried barbless fishing myself. Just a suggestion. Dan in the bush……
My suggestion is to gaff it, bring it onboard and have the deckhands fillet it. If it’s gut-hooked, and it fought, that would seem to really screw up the innards. I know when I catch an albie that swallowed the bait, blood gushes out of the mouth. Hard to believe that the fish would survive. Just keep reasonable limits, and respect the resource. It’s a sport, not a subsistance. RD Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
– Caltees – Home of Guy Harvey, Al Agnew, Habitat and Military Printed Tees http://www.caltees.com
One way that helps in releasing fish is to use a barbless hook. As long as you keep the line tight the fish will hardly ever come off! Tight Lines Lorne — If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there’d be a shortage of fishing poles. -Doug Larson
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions? Thanks. AC
Hello. I went fishing this past week and had a problem 2 times…the dang fish inhaled the hook.
This happens to me quite often during the fishing season. There is no way to avoid this, if you fish, you have to accept the fact that occasionally, fish WILL swallow th hook. What is the best thing to do in this circumstance? I feel it is akin to shooting and wounding a deer but not killing it. I tried unsucesfully both times to remove the hook, and ended up cutting the line and releasing the fish. Any suggestions?
Yes, what you did is exactly the correct thing. You should try to quickly remove the hook, if unsuccessful, then either cut the line or in the case of large lures, use a sidecutter pliers or a small bolt cutter and cut the hook. I have caught many apparently healthy fish with a leader or a section of line hanging out of their mouth. Just today, while out with my editor from http://www.lake-link.com I caught a small northern pike with a section of line going down into his gullet. There was nothing wrong with the fish and he was released again. One thing’s for certain, the survival rate for fish that are kept and filleted is zero, so release, there is always a chance that they will make it.
Hi John, Steffen Rods are built by the Steffen brothers, their company is located in Northern Arizona near Lee’s Ferry. They build extremely fine rods. You may have gotten that one for a steal, if it was cheap in a swap meet. These rods should easily compare to Scott, Sage, Loomis, etc. in quality. The only difference, naturally is the action of the rod. Steffen Bro’s do build their own blanks. These rods are not too well known, because the boys aren’t very dependable in shipping rods out to their retailers. Certain times of the year, fishing on Lee’s Ferry is more important than making an income. A lot of retailers will not stock their rods for this reason. Although, sometimes I have to agree with their attitude about fishing before working. It must depend on how much cash you have in the bank. Good Luck Bill — William Endicott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale. The seller didn’t know the history of it. It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co. The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply. Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.? Are they still in business? Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA
Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.? Are they still in business? Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? John Woodling Sacramento, CA
John; Steffen Rod Co. is based in Arizona, but I’m not sure of the town. Their rods are much more popular out there in the West than they are here in the East. However, they are gaining in popularity. They "roll their own" at Steffen. They are very competent rods. They are certainly still in business, but you don’t hear much about them. They forego national advertising to keep their overhead at a minimum. They also don’t offer an unlimited warrantee, but will repair rods at a reasonable price. Right now, they only offer 2 series of rods. One is like yours and the other is sanded and with fancier hardware, but it’s the same rod, essentially. We have a guy here in eastern PA who sells their stuff. Very good casting rods for $250. Compared to my Scott Alpha, they are significantly slower; not that it is a *bad* thing. Jason Beary
I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale. The seller didn’t know the history of it. It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co. The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply. Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.? Are they still in business? Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA
Dear John: Mark Steffen, of Steffen Brothers, lives in Flagstaff, Arizona. He sells his rods locally through Peace Surplus Sporting Stores, 779-4521. Mark is the current President of the our local fly fishing group…. Northern Arizona Flycasters, Inc. Besides making great rods, he is an all around good guy, hardcore fisherman and fly fishing activist. Give him a call if you have any questions. Dawson Henderson
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale. The seller didn’t know the history of it. It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co. The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply. Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.? Are they still in business? Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA Dear John: Mark Steffen, of Steffen Brothers, lives in Flagstaff, Arizona. He sells his rods locally through Peace Surplus Sporting Stores, 779-4521. Mark is the current President of the our local fly fishing group…. Northern Arizona Flycasters, Inc. Besides making great rods, he is an all around good guy, hardcore fisherman and fly fishing activist. Give him a call if you have any questions. Dawson Henderson
I have fished Steffen steelhead (8wt) and 4-piece 6-wt rods for years. They are marvelous. I use the 4-piece in New Zealand just about every day for 4-6 week trips and find that it handles innumerable large fish, horrendous wind, and roll-casting very heavy nymphs on the Tongariro like no other rod.The Midge in Los Altos Calif carries the rods. If you have trouble with a Steffen, the maker repairs them very well. Try it, you’ll like it!!
Hi ! Does anybody know, how to purchase one of these rods here in europe witout knowing a pal who travels the US frequently ?? TIA
I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale. The seller didn’t know the history of it. It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co. The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply. Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.? Are they still in business? Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA
Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of private, daily or annual fee-based fishing areas in California? I have compiled a list of a dozen or so, but I would like a larger base of data. It seems that the landowners either try to market themselves, often badly, or the lease the fishing rights to a large fly shop or fishing club. The only large, organized clubs I have found that lease trepass rights on an anuual basis are hunting clubs like Wilderness Unlimited.
Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of private, daily or annual fee-based fishing areas in California? I have compiled a list of a dozen or so, but I would like a larger base of data. It seems that the landowners either try to market themselves, often badly, or the lease the fishing rights to a large fly shop or fishing club. The only large, organized clubs I have found that lease trepass rights on an anuual basis are hunting clubs like Wilderness Unlimited.
In Northern California, the Fly Shop in Redding, CA has been the most sucessful. They have a nice cross section of well run private waters. 800/669-FISH William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY
I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA.
I use a Dremel Moto-tool with a cutting disc and slice the reel seat lengthwise in two spots opposite each other on the seat. Be careful not to cut into the blank. A flat blade screwdriver inserted into the cut and twisted does the rest. For the cork, a utility knife and a pair of channel lock pliers are my weapons of choice. Like was suggested earlier, get rid of as much of the old epoxy as possible. I shave it off with the utility knife. Before starting the new handle, wrap the butt of the blank with thread and epoxy to build it up level. This way the new grip can be installed from the butt and you won’t have to redo the guides as well. If you decide to use heat to break the epoxy bond under the reel seat, be extremely careful. Remember that it’s basically the same epoxy that holds the fibers of the blank together. — Carl Woods Richmond, VA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA.
(Arnold Kaida) writes: I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA.
I’d try to heat the reelseat in boiling water and breakdown the epoxy. DO NOT apply a flame to the reelseat. After removing the reelseat use a razor to remove most of the cork, then lightly sand the rest off the blank without sanding into the graphite. Then (guessing from ucla.edu) head down to Bob Marriott’s in Fullerton and pick out your new reelseat and cork grip. Make sure they match each other. Epoxy them on with 5 minute epoxy (In case of future replacement needs this glue will breakdown with heat). Wrap blank with 1/4" strips of masking tape to build the blank up to proper O.D. to match the reelseat/grip I.D’s. Don Burns
I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA.
The grip is no problem, but the reel seat can be tough to dislodge. There are various means of getting the seat off, most of which involve lots of heat and risk to the blank. My suggestion is to stick to replacing the grip, unless you are really unhappy with the seat. Replacing the seat is nto a "whiel you are at it" task. To get the grip off, just carve it off with a knife. As you get closer to the blank, you might want to sand off the last fraction of an inch so that you don’t risk nicking the blank. Once the grip is off, take off the stirpper guide and any other guide on the butt section of the rod. If you are using a preformed grip to replace the old, simply fit the new grip to the blank by sliding it over the ferrule end of the butt section. Ream out the grip or build up the blank with masking tape so that there is a proper fit. Then replace the winding check and stripper guide. Lyman Lyman G. Hughes Dallas, TX Ennis, MT
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Arnold Kaida) writes: I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA. I’d try to heat the reelseat in boiling water and breakdown the epoxy. DO NOT apply a flame to the reelseat. After removing the reelseat use a razor to remove most of the cork, then lightly sand the rest off the blank without sanding into the graphite. Then (guessing from ucla.edu) head down to Bob Marriott’s in Fullerton and pick out your new reelseat and cork grip. Make sure they match each other. Don Burns
Thanks Don. The seat refused to budge after soaking in boiling water. So, I finally cut it off with my Dremel mototool and a cutting disk. Wish I had decided to do this before the Flyfishing Fair a couple of weeks ago. I could have saved a 60 mile drive. Did you see the distance casting demo by Steve Ratjeff (sp?) the G. Loomis rep? Amazing.
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I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter. I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied to the blank? Or is it beyond hope? TIA.
There is really nothing that is quick. Perhaps the easiest way to remove the reel seat is to hold the butt end of the rod in a pot of boiling water on the stove for about fifteen minutes or so; this will make the epoxy reasonably plastic, and you should be able to pull it off with a strong tug before it cools (use oven mitts, of course). If you have a wood insert, it will be ruined, but they are reasonably inexpensive. For the grip, the only way I know of is to slice and dice the cork and carefully sand off most of the remaining epoxy. Works for me; I do it every time…. Joe I.
I will be in the Utica NY area later this week and was wondering if anyone had any info on the local streams. My time is limited while I’m there so I’m looking for easy stream access and decent fishing in a single area. Thanks for the help. Trip — 14 Mamaroneck Ave phone: 914/948-6200 x7515 White Plains, NY 10601 fax: 914/948-6270
Richard, without a doubt you will want to make a visit to the West Canada about 30 min from Utica. Rte.12 north to the Rte.8 (Poland) exit to Rte. 28, make a left on Rte.28. Go a few miles to a parking area on the right. Fish up or downstream of the bridge. Although most major hatches are over you may encounter sporadic cream variant (prior to dark) and definitely caddis (#14 tan, #18 black). There are always plenty of caddis and plenty of fish (browns). Water conditions have been excellent. Good luck and let me know how you make out.
The West Canda Creek, 15 minutes north of Utica is a blue-ribbon trout stream with a section of "artificials-only". Its a fabulous trout stream, as good as anything isn the east, but not well known outside of the Utica area. I learned to fish on the WCC when I was about 8(40 yrs ago) and spent many a summer day there with my grandfather. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I will be in the Utica NY area later this week and was wondering if anyone had any info on the local streams. My time is limited while I’m there so I’m looking for easy stream access and decent fishing in a single area. Thanks for the help. Trip — **** System Management ARTS email:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -14 Mamaroneck Ave phone: 914/948-6200 x7515 White Plains, NY 10601 fax: 914/948-6270
Folks, I need your help. I downloaded a new version of GNN tonite (31a – avoid it at all costs) and it blew away my hotlist with all my flyfishing links, Would you all please wpost your favorite liwweb pages with the correct http adresses? I used to have all of the "classics", but they are gone for now. I’ll try to build them back by doing some serious surfing, but any help you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
Folks, I need your help. I downloaded a new version of GNN tonite (31a – avoid it at all costs) and it blew away my hotlist with all my flyfishing links, Would you all please wpost your favorite liwweb pages with the correct http adresses? I used to have all of the "classics", but they are gone for now. I’ll try to build them back by doing some serious surfing, but any help you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
Kevin, Perhaps you’ve tried this already but if not, it’ll give more locations than you probably want: <http://www.lycos.com/ (don’t put in these things < ) I ran a test on it just searching for "fly fish" and got more that 50 pages with the majority being specificly fly fishing. (it said it had "10k documents" if I wanted to look at them !!!) Regards, ~~ The Eddie Bauer catalog offers pitch-saturated kindling wood "felled by lightning or other natural causes." WHAT!