June is prime time, but May could be OK too if it is not too early in the month. I know August sucks. Get on Google and find someone up there to email? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com
. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hope to hit the Kamloops area of B.C. early in the season in 2002. I anticipate ice-out will occur about May, early for lower elevations and later for higher elevations. I would appreciate any advice, hints, locations of hot lakes, comments on fishing this time of year, etc.
Check out some of the local fly shops when you are there, most will help you out. I am trying to remember the names of a few I particularly liked, but they escape me. (I know exactly how to get to one where the owner was particlarly helpful, but I can’t remember the name of the shop.) Expect to use midges, scuds, leeches, or other early season food imitations. You might keep an eye on the sportfishing BC forum at http://www.sportfishingbc.com/forum/ or the Fishing BC forum http://www.fishbc.com/cgi-bin/board/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&nu… I hope this helps. I am planning on being in the areq in mid-April or early May myself. Sometimes I can get some fishing in, sometimes not. Hope this helps Tim Lysyk
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hope to hit the Kamloops area of B.C. early in the season in 2002. I anticipate ice-out will occur about May, early for lower elevations and later for higher elevations. I would appreciate any advice, hints, locations of hot lakes, comments on fishing this time of year, etc.
Some lakes are open in April or even late March. Stump, Six Mile, Jocko and White are known for long a open season and provide fishing before the 1st of May. Concentrate on lakes in the 3000 foot elevation range.Paul Lake is within an easy drive of Kamloops and is a lake at the proper elevation for that time of year. Early in the season blood worms, leech, corixa and chironmids are the primary hatch. If the weather is mild or warm chironmid hatches can be prolific. Chironomids are the most consistent hacth in May and into early June. Cold weather fronts will negatively effect the fishing. Towards the end of the month it is possible to hit excellent hatches or callibaetis mayflies and even damsels in some lower lakes. All will depend on the timing of ice free conditions and if there is a cold or warm spring. The worst timing would be to fish a lake in turnover, the best immediately after ice off. Yosh’s tackle in Kamloops is a good tackle store or the Logan Lake fly shop. Ask for Georgi at Logan Lake. The best discussion forum is at fishbc.com. Many area residents, guides and tackle shop jockeys frequent this site and are more than willing to provide info and advice. be sure to get as up to date information as possible before you go and adjust your fishing locale accordingly.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hope to hit the Kamloops area of B.C. early in the season in 2002. I anticipate ice-out will occur about May, early for lower elevations and later for higher elevations. I would appreciate any advice, hints, locations of hot lakes, comments on fishing this time of year, etc.
I hope to hit the Kamloops area of B.C. early in the season in 2002. I anticipate ice-out will occur about May, early for lower elevations and later for higher elevations. I would appreciate any advice, hints, locations of hot lakes, comments on fishing this time of year, etc.
Give Georgi Abbot of the Logan Lake Fly Shop and email. She’s happy to Don – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hope to hit the Kamloops area of B.C. early in the season in 2002. I anticipate ice-out will occur about May, early for lower elevations and later for higher elevations. I would appreciate any advice, hints, locations of hot lakes, comments on fishing this time of year, etc.
Mike, I took you’re advice, cooked the arse end of the seat off, popped the spigot out, cleaned off the spigot and blank, epoxied the inside of the blank well, shoved the spigot in with a dowel, cleaned the epoxy off with alcohol, and then glued the reel seat back together again. Elapsed time – a little over ten minutes. The East Branch rods are some of the prettiest out their, very good quality components, tubes, etc. They’re superb fishing instruments as anyone who has one can attest. But EB fell down on simple aspects of execution – both the spigot and the reel seat had very little glue on them – the reel seat came apart after only about 30 seconds in hot water. By comparison, it took about ten minutes to cook the reel seat off my Cabelas Stowaway. The wraps at the end the ferrules are very sparse and probably contribute to much of the breakage. Sometimes questionable guide placement contributed to the risk of breakage. It’s a pity that such nice rods were let down by such littler things. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
Mike, I took you’re advice, cooked the arse end of the seat off, <SNIP Peter Visit The Streamer Page at
http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html I thought you would 
Slapdash repairs are just disasters waiting to happen, and you do not seem the type who would risk that on decent fishing gear. If the rod is as nice as you say, I would certainly rewrap the ferrule ends etc, and carry out any other modifications required. Sparse ferrule wrappings are indeed the cause of much breakage, loose ferrules also. It does not take much time really, and is invariably worth the trouble. If the spigot ( the part inside the rod butt section) is on the short side, I would give the blank here a generous wrapping as well. This sometimes ruins the symmetry of appearance, but saves a lot of buggering about usually. One may often compensate to a degree by lengthening other wraps to suit. Sparse, and overtight whippings are often a problem. If the whipping compresses or otherwise deforms the blank, then it is also a disaster waiting to happen. Somebody mentioned that this manufacturer used "Elmers Glue", I am not familiar with this, but having experimented quite a lot with various things, I would never use anything other than the various epoxy grades for rod repairs nowadays. Even though I only do repairs for friends etc, and not for money, they would doubtless not be too enthusiastic about failures caused by shoddy work. (Perhaps I should mess up a few repairs? it would reduce my workload ! I have always maintained that the main difference between relatively cheap, and relatively expensive rods, is the cosmetics, and the care taken in production. If you wrap and otherwise build up even a cheap blank with good hardware etc, then you invariably have a reliable and long lived fishing tool,. Nice if the action etc suits you as well of course ! Rather a shame that a manufacturer should skimp on such relatively simple things, and thus fold. Especially one who otherwise seemed OK. TL MC
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike, I took you’re advice, cooked the arse end of the seat off, <SNIP Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html I thought you would Slapdash repairs are just disasters waiting to happen, and you do not seem the type who would risk that on decent fishing gear. [snip] Rather a shame that a manufacturer should skimp on such relatively simple things, and thus fold. Especially one who otherwise seemed OK. TL MC
Greg was just being sarcastic with the Elmer’s glue comment – he too is an EB customer with a story or two to tell. The wraps and stripper guide positions on mine seem OK but Greg had a great EB rod snap due to a combination of stripper guide placement and insufficient wraps. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
Somebody mentioned that this manufacturer used "Elmers Glue", I am not familiar with this
Elmer’s Glue is a simple water soluble white glue. It’s manufactured by Borden’s which is a big dairy company. Their company logos are Elsie the Cow (on dairy products) and Elmer the Bull (on glue products). Elmer’s primary ingredient used to be casein, milk protein. It’s a decent glue on porous materials as long as it stays dry. One of the cool things you can do with it is coat your skin (it dries clear) and freak people out by peeling it off in big sheets. Probably every American school kid has done that. –Stan OBROFF – Elmer’s is a terrible fly floatant.
<SNIP –Stan OBROFF – Elmer’s is a terrible fly floatant.
Maybe it is a good sinkant? :) Thanks for the info Stan. Sometimes quite a problem explaining just exactly what proprietary products are, makes some things very difficult to understand properly. TL MC
Peter why not contact East Branch??? I talked to the guy at the Marlboro flyfishing show, and he seems a good guy. would probably be a minimal charge or none for such a repair. and you’ll have someone doing it with all the right tools. if they mess it up, you’ll probably get a new rod. TD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just had the butt section spigot come unglued on one rod (wants to slip back into the butt) and the re-gluing will be an adventure. I’m thinking of getting some R/C model airplane CA glue (extremely watery) that will penetrate the full length of the spigot. I doubt there’s enough space for me to get any appreciable amounts of epoxy in there. Anybody ever try using CA glue on a rod repair. (ya Greg, it’s East Branch – the 4 wt.) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html If you can do so, it is better to remove the spigot altogether. It is usually possible to push it straight down the butt section, and after removing the butt cap, simply push it out. Using a fine round file or similar, and being careful not to remove any rod material, clean out the tip of the butt section, of any glue remnants etc. Clean the spigot as well. Then, using a piece of dowel, long thin steel rod, or similar, apply epoxy to the inside of the butt tip, and simply push the spigot back into place using a long thin steel rod or similar. This works well, and is a permanent and reliable repair. CA glue is not reliable for repairs on flexing parts. The bond invariably cracks, usually quite quickly. If you wish to try it, warming up slow drying epoxy makes it extremely "runny", at least as runny as CA glue. It also decreases the setting time a great deal, so be careful. Just pour this carefully around the spigot. I have only ever tried this once, and it worked OK. ( I was unable to remove the spigot entirely ). One last possibility is to cover the spigot itself in epoxy, and carefully rotate and push this back down into the rod. Hold the tip of the spigot with a pair of pliers or similar, and be extremely careful not to let go of it. When the epoxy is distributed, just pull the spigot back into place, and remove the excess epoxy, using alcohol or similar. TL MC
As a builder of r/c airplane models: in fact there is very little flex involved in most airframes (nor is flex desired). We try to build out flex as it detracts from precise control. Beyond that, the glue joints in an airframe are almost always stronger than the materials being joined (given that usually those materials are wood). And for joints that really need to be strong (firewalls, gear mounting blocks, wing joins, etc) we definitely use epoxy – and the slower the set, the better… /daytripper (check out my Super Chipmunk at http://www.ultranet.com/~haigt/rcstuff/chipmunk.html ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you can do so, it is better to remove the spigot altogether. It is usually possible to push it straight down the butt section, and after removing the butt cap, simply push it out. Using a fine round file or similar, and being careful not to remove any rod material, clean out the tip of the butt section, of any glue remnants etc. Clean the spigot as well. Then, using a piece of dowel, long thin steel rod, or similar, apply epoxy to the inside of the butt tip, and simply push the spigot back into place using a long thin steel rod or similar. This works well, and is a permanent and reliable repair. This had been my initial instincts but being fundamentally lazy, I was looking for an easy alternative. CA glue is not reliable for repairs on flexing parts. The bond invariably cracks, usually quite quickly. There’s a lot of flexing in R/C model airplanes yet I’ve never heard of glue joint failure with CA glues. Perhaps these glues are a bit different? The butt on this rod is quite hefty (10 1/2 footer) – there isn’t much flex in it. If you wish to try it, warming up slow drying epoxy makes it extremely "runny", at least as runny as CA glue. It also decreases the setting time a great deal, so be careful. Just pour this carefully around the spigot. I have only ever tried this once, and it worked OK. ( I was unable to remove the spigot entirely ). One last possibility is to cover the spigot itself in epoxy, and carefully rotate and push this back down into the rod. Hold the tip of the spigot with a pair of pliers or similar, and be extremely careful not to let go of it. When the epoxy is distributed, just pull the spigot back into place, and remove the excess epoxy, using alcohol or similar. TL MC Thanks Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a builder of r/c airplane models: in fact there is very little flex involved in most airframes (nor is flex desired). We try to build out flex as it detracts from precise control. Beyond that, the glue joints in an airframe are almost always stronger than the materials being joined (given that usually those materials are wood). And for joints that really need to be strong (firewalls, gear mounting blocks, wing joins, etc) we definitely use epoxy – and the slower the set, the better… /daytripper (check out my Super Chipmunk at http://www.ultranet.com/~haigt/rcstuff/chipmunk.html )
You in that racket too. I’ve been building the things off and on since the sixties. You’re right of course, we don’t want flex but you can be sure that the airframe and wings are really "working" in gusty conditions or when pulling G (or when hitting the ground.) I have an old bird built in ‘77 with white glue that has held together well, except for the control hinges. I have a couple of new ones done with CA and so far, so good – mind you, I haven’t had them out in the last couple of years.
. There’s a lot of flexing in R/C model airplanes yet I’ve never heard of glue joint failure with CA glues. Perhaps these glues are a bit different? The butt on this rod is quite hefty (10 1/2 footer) – there isn’t much flex in it.
My neighbour builds radio controlled model aeroplanes, and he also uses CA glue for some things. I just had a word with him, and he tells me that the stuff he uses also cracks easily apparently. Most of the flex is in the airframe itself, the actual joints are rigid. He says that even a mild "crash" will crack CA joints. He also says that this is actually often desirable, as the cracking of the glue joints apparently acts as a sort of shock absorber, and the actual glued parts are not damaged, and may simply be glued again. I don
Al, you are inviting PETA here? That is tantamount to inviting meowers here. Sometimes you are amusing, but now you have gone too far, if this is your intent. — Go Fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales. Columbia, SC Lake Murray
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was at walmart last night and i didn’t see Steve (Stoner Lake) there. Walmart is quite the place for tackle. I was looking for live bait harnesses. Couldn’t find any. Probably because there isn’t a big market for them. Is there any instrucions anywhere how to make them for frogs, crickets, grasshoppers, hellgramights, crayfish etc. Also is part of the aversion to livebait the fact that you are sacrificing livebait for fishing. But fishing is hooking fish so what’s the big deal i was wondering what Peta types would think of it. Al
Bob writes: Al, you are inviting PETA here? That is tantamount to inviting meowers here. Sometimes you are amusing, but now you have gone too far, if this is your intent. — Go Fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales. Columbia, SC Lake Murray
Bob If i feel like it I’ll invite a peta type who is also a jetskier. How does that grab you? Al
I was looking for live bait harnesses. Couldn’t find any. Probably because there isn’t a big market for them. Is there any instrucions anywhere how to make them for frogs, crickets, grasshoppers, hellgramights, crayfish etc.
OK Al, here’s something that will help you out, I found it in an outdoor magazine. The entire ad is as follows: "Bait Stick" is a stretchy, sticky glue that will attach live insects to a hook. Wrap a match-head-sized glob on a hook and touch the glue to an ant, salmon egg…whatever. The bug won’t die because the glue is non-toxic; instead, the insect will thrash and kick around. Can you think of a better fish attractant? The glue never dries out and continues to work underwater. Insects will even stay attached when being cast with a fly rod. ($7.50; 734-676-7772) There, now quit worrying about finding a harness to fish your live bait from. Call the phone number, part with $7.50 US and go feed some fish. Also is part of the aversion to livebait the fact that you are sacrificing
livebait for fishing. But fishing is hooking fish so what’s the big deal The aversion has nothing to do with "sacrificing" livebait. The aversion lies in the fact that often times while fishing livebait, a fish is gut hooked, rendering them unreleasable, or if you do, there is a strong possibility that the fish will die. If you are paying attention to the overall attitude of the members of this newsgroup, you will notice that the majority of us would rather fish, catching and releasing them to enjoy another day. I’m sure that most of us release in excess of 90% of the fish we catch. It’s harder to do when the fish are gut hooked as happens more often when fishing livebait. Also, many members feel that there is more skill involved in fooling a fish into striking an artificial than to feed livebait to a bass. To many of us, it’s not the actual fish being caught, it’s the process of getting the strike in the first place that trips our triggers. And if you don’t understand that, maybe you should take up golf. i was wondering what Peta types would think of it.
My thoughts on what PETA types would think of it??? Who cares??? —
I was at walmart last night and i didn’t see Steve (Stoner Lake) there. Walmart is quite the place for tackle. I was looking for live bait harnesses. Couldn’t find any. Probably because there isn’t a big market for them. Is there any instrucions anywhere how to make them for frogs, crickets, grasshoppers, hellgramights, crayfish etc. Also is part of the aversion to livebait the fact that you are sacrificing livebait for fishing. But fishing is hooking fish so what’s the big deal i was wondering what Peta types would think of it. Al
lso is part of the aversion to livebait the fact that you are sacrificing livebait for fishing. But fishing is hooking fish so what’s the big deal i was wondering what Peta types would think of it. Al
Hello Albert, Have you ever had a mess of crickets get loose n your truck or had earthworms bust out in your fridge and crawl on the meatloaf or had a minnow jump out the bucket and wedge his way underneath the seat where he would stay and stink for Tommy Rilee
Hello Albert, Have you ever had a mess of crickets get loose n your truck or had earthworms bust out in your fridge and crawl on the meatloaf or had a minnow jump out the bucket and wedge his way underneath the seat where he would stay and stink for Tommy Rilee
Tom No i have never had that happen to me. I’ve heard the fridge thing before. Rotting minnows under a seat make a fishing boat smell like what it should smell like. I’m not afraid of the bait or getting my hands dirty. If your afraid of the bait how are you with the fish. It’s best to think like your quarry (fish) then you will have no qualms about the bait. Al
Al, if you try and analyze what the PETA people think, it’ll drive you crazy, because they are crazy. I’m not any proponent of hurting animals needlessly, and would never do it purposely. I used to hunt (a lot when younger) and fished both then and now, and it doesn’t bother me to eat what I shot or caught, which meant having to dispatch them. PETA nuts equate the equality of animals to people. I don’t. That includes live bait. If you’re interested in live bait harnesses, you can probably find them on line at BPS or Cabela’s. Warren2
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was at walmart last night and i didn’t see Steve (Stoner Lake) there. Walmart is quite the place for tackle. I was looking for live bait harnesses. Couldn’t find any. Probably because there isn’t a big market for them. Is there any instrucions anywhere how to make them for frogs, crickets, grasshoppers, hellgramights, crayfish etc. Also is part of the aversion to livebait the fact that you are sacrificing livebait for fishing. But fishing is hooking fish so what’s the big deal i was wondering what Peta types would think of it. Al
______ RW? I want to talk to you at: — http://www.gink.com/chat If you are up. I’m going there now. George
Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out.
Vern; This topic comes up every few weeks here. If you do a Deja News search you can find quite a bit of discussion of it over the past year or so. It seems that Ernie and I are the biggest fans of leader links. I’ve used them for over fifteen years, as have a number of my friends. I know of no case in which they have failed, except when they are so old that repeated dragging over rocks etc., has abraded them badly. Of course, any knot used to attach a leader to the fly line would have fared just as badly. Like anything else, a leader link has a finite useable life. But bearing that in mind they are very reliable, cheap, and easy to use, and should be more than adequate for anything less demanding than large salt water species. I’ve personally caught quite a few steelhead and salmon while rigged with leader links and never had a problem. Someone else recently suggested knotting the ends of the leader and line together before reinserting them into the leader link. This is unnecessary for most applications but can’t hurt if you can actually tie a knot small enough.
Vern, They are surprisingly strong. The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot. You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line. Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing. I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don, Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.
Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Vern, They are surprisingly strong. The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot. You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line. Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing. I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don, Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.
John, A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side, You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side. Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john
ahhhh….those rascals……thanks….john
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -John, A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side, You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side. Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john
I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader. My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time. I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet. I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson
going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time. I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet. I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt
Don, I wonder how many posts you are going to get like this one. You know, where your question is addressed but no advice given? Myself, I use the perfection not on both the butt section and the leader. I like the way it forms the loop to loop as far as turn over goes. Less likelihood of the ‘hinging effect.’ I do recall this question coming up a long time ago and I saved the question and all of the answers….course I lost a whole big file of stuff while learning some of the various functions of my computer. And I don’t remember what the answer was….I think it had something to do with casting…in order to avoid the knots. I must have retained something on a subconscious level because it moved the knots down into the tippet section. All I know is that it’s a real pickle trying to flyfish with a short term
Hi Don, I like to first needle nail knot a new tapered knotless monofilament leader directly to the end of my flyline. I am actually ’snelling’ on the leader. Then after I have used up all the taper by adding tippet material, I cut the leader at about 12 to 18 inches from the flyline and then attach another tapered leader. This gives me the same diameter and the same constancy of monofilament. You can shorten the new leader by cutting 12 to 18 inches from the butt before tying it on. This is not ‘thee way to do it’, but just another way to do it. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop http://www.kiene.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader. My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time. I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet. I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson
Don, Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader. My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time. I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet. I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson
I use a nail knot to tie a butt to the leader and then I put a surgeons loop at the end of that.I use a loop to loop connection to attach the leader.I don’t like to use a loop connection to my tippet because I believe it will affect the ability of the leader to lay out straight.Art Lee recommends never using a loop anywhhere on your leader but using a uni-knot to connect which is easier to tie than a nail knot and serves the same function.I have switched to this knot and I haven’t had any problems.
Don, Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.
Hear, Hear! I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else. They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them. They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need. Kevin
Hear, Hear! I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else. They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them. They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need.
When I recommended leader links to a friend of mine in Idaho he turned up his nose at them. Said he was a "purist". I pointed out that he was using a graphite rod, a nylon leader, and a synthetic flyline. It turned out that the guy didn’t even know how to tie a nail knot or a needle knot. He had it done at the tackle shop. Sheesh! — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)
Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them.
For any of you who haven’t read the book it is a fun read. Nice way to spend a couple of those cold winter nights. Here is part of my entry from "Books of the Black Bass. "Author says he was "raised in the Redneck Way of Fishing." What he was saying is that numbers and size of fish caught became more important than anything else, thus turning his hobby into work. Raines grew up in Alabama fishing for Bass, bluegill, crappie, etc. There is some fly fishing for trout in this book but there is more about the Largemouth and Smallmouth Bass than any other fish. As you wander through the book you find stories on ex-presidents of the United States, fly fishing legends such as Wulff, Marinaro, McClane, Fox, Kreh, and some Bass world notables such as Ray Scott and Rick Clunn. Author relates a couple of instances where Scott suffered from foot in the mouth disease as he tried to help his friend, President George Bush, get re-elected. Raines fished for Bass with Bush although throughout the book he is critical of Hoover, Reagan and other republican presidents. Time is spent with all the fishing presidents from Hoover and Cleveland down to George Bush and Jimmy Carter. He speaks out on everyone he writes about and is not afraid to take on the bureaucrats, all in all, an enjoyable read." Clyde Black Bass Book Collector http://members.aol.com/BassBks/index.html
I currently have for sale a nice copy of "Fly Fishing Through the Midlife Crisis" by Howell Raines. A very clean softcover copy, published in 1994 by Anchor Books. The 352 page book is fresh and clean inside and out, except for a gift inscription inside the front cover. Available for to reserve. Thanks, and best regards. Dave http://www.newsfeeds.com The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!
I’m looking for some new patterns to try on the huge mass of stripers that very reliable sources say are headed towards capecod. If any one has any interesting stuff that has a good history of working please let me know.
I’m looking for some new patterns to try on the huge mass of stripers that very reliable sources say are headed towards capecod. If any one has any interesting stuff that has a good history of working please let me know.
I’m a big fan of the Ray’s Fly and the Bonderew Bucktail. Killed them at Chatham the last two Junes. Bob Scott
TR…Before I started guiding I started using my own brand of yellow clouser. First of all I tied it upside down. In other words hook up, eyes on the lower side. I started flyfishing in the salt in Rhode Island up in Narragansett Bay. Lots of rocks to grab flies. Having the hook up avoids loss to rocky bottoms. Stripers tend to hug the bottom more often than not and I found I spent more time releasing them then tying on new flies. My clousers are also tied like tarpon flies, tied in at the tail which avoids the ugly recurring problem of the material wrapping around the hook shank. My pattern uses four yellow hackle three inches long, six or eight pieces of silver crystal flash and a small amount of yellow fish hair. Turn it over and tie in the eyes. I use flaming pink floss to tie the fly. It allows you to really tie the materials securely without worrying about breaking the thread. Believe me it works. My clients have been using it and it out performs many other patterns I’ve tried. Good luck this season…Capt. Ted Bobetsky (http://www.flyfishing-the-salt.com) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for some new patterns to try on the huge mass of stripers that very reliable sources say are headed towards capecod. If any one has any interesting stuff that has a good history of working please let me know.
I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,
I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,
From my limited knowledge, I belive the 57 refers to the rod’s taper and quality ranking within the South Bend family of rods. The 57 was a low to medium priced rod with South Bend’s Bass Action (fast action). If there are no marking or decals on the rod itself (possibly removed in a prior refinish), its difficult to determine much more. — Visit Dave Teffeteller’s Fly Fishing Guides page http://www.olfart.com
The "57" indicates that is, in-fact, a model 57 and the 9, well, you guessed it, it’s a 9 footer! The 57 was a "bass action" rod and was at the low end of the South Bend line. With a little more info such as reelseat type, grip type, ferrule type and wrap color the date of the rod could be narrowed down a bit. Dave
I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,
The "57" refers to the model number (Model 57). I would guess that it would take a 7 or 8 weight line. –Rich
In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00.
In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00.
I have a 59 -9′ Southbend Bamboo Rod (was my Dad’s) /w Pfluger reel, I would like to restore it. I have both tips. some snake guides are missing. any info?????
writes: In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00. I have a 59 -9′ Southbend Bamboo Rod (was my Dad’s) /w Pfluger reel, I would like to restore it. I have both tips. some snake guides are missing. any info?????
Buy a copy of Michael Sinclair’s "Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" for $25.00 (US) – ISBN #1-882418-11-5 As for Snake guides, Try to find Perfection snakes, they’ll match the originals, but I’ve been told that Perfection has converted over to a new mfg. process and has had delivery problems. Order an Angler’s Workshop catalog for a good selection of silk thread, both Godebrod and YLI (sold as Angler’s brand). A.W. # — (360) 225-9445 Don B. PS – I’m looking for smaller size Perfection guides (smaller than #2’s) if anyone has them for sale – please e-mail me.
I just inherited a South Bend bamboo rod, rod #323, 9′ length. The rod has a cloth bag, and is a three-piece with an extra tip section. Can anybody give me an idea how old the rod is, what the rod might be worth, and what line weight might be best? A couple of the ferrules are loose, but other than that everything seems fine. Can I just epoxy the ferrules, or should I give the rod a more thorough refinishing? Ed Heist College Station, TX (140 miles northeast of one of several Guadalupe Rivers)
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just inherited a South Bend bamboo rod, rod #323, 9′ length. The rod has a cloth bag, and is a three-piece with an extra tip section. Can anybody give me an idea how old the rod is, what the rod might be worth, and what line weight might be best? A couple of the ferrules are loose, but other than that everything seems fine. Can I just epoxy the ferrules, or should I give the rod a more thorough refinishing? Ed Heist College Station, TX (140 miles northeast of one of several Guadalupe Rivers)
Ed, Try this url: http://www.gorp.com/bamboo.htm Also, buy a copy of Michael Sinclair’s "Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" a great book for do-it-yourself production bamboo rod restorations. If you try to remove the ferrules, look for small pins holding them on! Don
I am looking for a new or secondhand Hardy #4 fly reel to match a Loomis #4 IMX rod. Marquis #4 or #5 , Golden Prince 5/6 or JLH Ultralite #4 or #5. Any info will be of great help. Thanks
I am looking for a new or secondhand Hardy #4 fly reel to match a Loomis #4 IMX rod. Marquis #4 or #5 , Golden Prince 5/6 or JLH Ultralite #4 or #5. Any info will be of great help. Thanks
Contact Timeless Tackle in Edinburgh Scotland at 44-131-667-1407 or FAX 44-131-662-4215. They deal in used and antique fishing gear and their list always seems to have a large selection of Hardy equipment. Ken Barry
There are ways to get a Sage for cheaper than the normal price. I got my 590 RPL+ for quite a bit less than retail and its the same rod, brand new, not a second and I love it.
Don’t keep us in suspense…. I’m looking for a RPL Rick
You mean the inverse of capitalism – capitalism is when market demand determines the price not when a supplier controls the price. If all of us stopped buying because the price was too high then the prices would come down. That would be capitalism at work.
Exactly! If Sage can’t send enough rods out the door, they’ll go to their distributors and lower the price. In addition, your point is also an example of why the "price-setting" issue is legal. As long as consumers have an opportunity to purchase other manufacturer’s similar goods (Orvis, Redington, etc), without fear that manufacturers are working in concert to keep prices high, the system (capitalism) will work. I also think that many of us draw capitalism out to more than it truly is. Your example shows only a possible by-product of capitalism. The only inherent principle in capitalism is that of an economic system that allows for the private ownership of industry. My original intent with the first post was to show that, at least under the current laws, Sage’s (and others) policy on rod prices is legal. Federal Anti-Trust and price-fixing laws deal specifically with a group of manufacturers acting together to either restrict trade or keep prices high (or both). What a single manufacturer does or doesn’t do with their products is, for the most part, entirely up to them and not currently addressed under law (as far as I know). The moral or ethical considerations of a manufacturer’s policy is another thing entirely, and one that I probably agree with you on. Jerry Cobb Nashville, TN
two of my favorite rods are a 3 an 5 wt. redington. great action and the price is right ( for me).
David, I have the model 490, 4 weight, Sage RPL+. I’m not an experienced flyfisherman, and only have two other rods I’ve used extensively. I started with a Wal-Mart special, moved up to the Sage, and also own an Orvis superfine 6 weight. The Sage is stiffer, more powerful, and I fish it the most. The Orvis flexes more easily and I have to force myself to wait longer between the backcast and forward cast to use it effectively. I would recommend you definitly try different rods and find one that suits your style or speed. I can’t cast that far and still find that the majority of the fish I catch are within half my maximum range. Look for a rod that you enjoy casting and you wouldn’t mind using all day. Good Luck. Ronny
: I am thinking about trying a RPL+, and have recently been looking at : some of the spring catalogues for prices. Does everyone charge list : price (or close to it) or is there someplace that offers at least some : discount? There must be some entrepreneurs out there who are willing : to take a little less to make a sale. Sage sets the price. — Jeff Smith Graduate student http://www.msc.cornell.edu/~jeffs Cornell University, Ithaca, NY
Smith) writes: : I am thinking about trying a RPL+, and have recently been looking at : some of the spring catalogues for prices. Does everyone charge list : price (or close to it) or is there someplace that offers at least some : discount? There must be some entrepreneurs out there who are willing : to take a little less to make a sale. Sage sets the price.
Although I’m not an antitrust lawyer, I seem to recall from lawschool that such "prics setting (i.e., price fixing)" is illegal and can land one in Leavenworth. I recognize that Sage (or Orvis etc.) can suggest a retail price but I believe any effort to enforce it on independent dealers would be illegal.
I currently own several Sage SP rods and din’t even look twice at the new RPL+ rods when they came out. I spent two weeks in Montana last October and my partner was fishing his brand new RPL+ 590-4. I asked to cast it one day while we waited to load our drift boat, well the short story is that my wife is currently fishing with some darn nice Sage SP’s and I own two RPL+ series rods. 590-5 and 896-4, I have not been a big fan of four piece rods in the past, but I think you will find that these rods are amazingly easy to cast and shoot lots of line. I kept my 390sp for my BWO & PMD fishing, but for most of my fishing the RPL+ is my new rod of choice. Cast one! Pask
: Smith) writes:
: : Sage sets the price. : : Although I’m not an antitrust lawyer, I seem to recall from lawschool : that such "prics setting (i.e., price fixing)" is illegal and can land : one in Leavenworth. I recognize that Sage (or Orvis etc.) can suggest : a retail price but I believe any effort to enforce it on independent : dealers would be illegal. I talked to a guy at Dan Bailey’s who told me that Sage tells them what price they can sell the rod for. As I did some looking around, I found that Bailey’s had the same price as everyone else. You can check the sage website (http://www.sageflyfish.com/) to get the prices. Prices are "suggested retail", but maybe if you undercut the price Sage might forget to supply the retailer the next year. We’ve had a discussion about this before- I forget what the final upshot was. — Jeff Smith Graduate student http://www.msc.cornell.edu/~jeffs Cornell University, Ithaca, NY
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -: Although I’m not an antitrust lawyer, I seem to recall from lawschool : that such "prics setting (i.e., price fixing)" is illegal and can land : one in Leavenworth. I recognize that Sage (or Orvis etc.) can suggest : a retail price but I believe any effort to enforce it on independent : dealers would be illegal. I talked to a guy at Dan Bailey’s who told me that Sage tells them what price they can sell the rod for. As I did some looking around, I found that Bailey’s had the same price as everyone else. You can check the sage website (http://www.sageflyfish.com/) to get the prices. Prices are "suggested retail", but maybe if you undercut the price Sage might forget to supply the retailer the next year.
I wonder if any lawyers at the Justice Department are flyfisherman or read this group. Mike Ray Atlatna, Ga Cashiers, NC
There are ways to get a Sage for cheaper than the normal price. I got my 590 RPL+ for quite a bit less than retail and its the same rod, brand new, not a second and I love it. If anyone was paying attention about 3 months ago I was trying to sell one for under retail but got no takers so I basically gave it to my fishing partner for Christmas.
Although I’m not an antitrust lawyer, I seem to recall from lawschool that such "prics setting (i.e., price fixing)" is illegal and can land one in Leavenworth. I recognize that Sage (or Orvis etc.) can suggest a retail price but I believe any effort to enforce it on independent dealers would be illegal.
Michael Both "trust" and "price-fixing" refer to two or more parties acting in concert. For example, if Sage and Orvis execs were to conference call and set a price for an indentical product (or very similar product), it would in all likelyhood be price-fixing and is illegal. Similarly, if the same two companies were to attempt to organize their efforts in an attempt to dominate a market or industry, they are working in "trust," and is considered illegal. The industrial giants of turn-of-the-century railroad and steel businesses come to mind. Any given manufacturer can REQUIRE its distributors to sell at a certain price, as long as it is part of the agreement to distribute the product, although typically the agreements state a retail price that cannot be lowered. Any distributor can REFUSE to sell a manufacturer’s product if its terms do not meet the dist.’s needs/wants, such as too high a retail price, not enough margin, etc. The whole thing reeks of capitalism if you ask me <VBG. Jerry Cobb Nashville, TN
Although I’m not an antitrust lawyer, I seem to recall from lawschool that such "prics setting (i.e., price fixing)" is illegal
Its not illegal as long as the pricing philosophy is applied to all vendors. This practice is less common than it used to be, but is not uncommon with "premium" products whose image is based in part on a fixed, high, price. I’m going way back now — but I beleive this one went to the Supreme Court in the 70s. It was a hair-care manufacturer.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any given manufacturer can REQUIRE its distributors to sell at a certain price, as long as it is part of the agreement to distribute the product, although typically the agreements state a retail price that cannot be lowered. Any distributor can REFUSE to sell a manufacturer’s product if its terms do not meet the dist.’s needs/wants, such as too high a retail price, not enough margin, etc. The whole thing reeks of capitalism if you ask me <VBG. Jerry Cobb You mean the inverse of capitalism – capitalism is when market demand determines the price not when a supplier controls the price. If all of us stopped buying because the price was too high then the prices would come down. That would be capitalism at work.
Capitalism is rule by those who own the capital i.e., by the shareholders of Sage and Orvis. We also own capital which we can invest, and this gives birth to free markets. Strictly speaking though, capitalism is not the rule of the market, the market is a product of capitalism. — Keep your stick on the ice.
It’s ridiculous to call this price fixing. Setting the price keeps Walmart and other big volume "businesses" from undercutting the price. It has been tried in the courts and found ok. If you don’t like the price DON’T BUY IT!!!! An expensive fly rod is hardly an essential item. They do cast better, but most any rod will cast better than the caster. What’s sad is that the public can’t get enough of these expensive rods! I’m sure that the materials, engineering, and demand are driving up the cost, but as long as people continue to be shell out the big bucks the manufacturers are not going to look for ways to cut costs. I bet if someone came out with a rod with laser aligned guides people would buy it. Americans just *have* to have the best. Just my opinion, Rob Gregoire
Any given manufacturer can REQUIRE its distributors to sell at a certain price, as long as it is part of the agreement to distribute the product, although typically the agreements state a retail price that cannot be lowered. Any distributor can REFUSE to sell a manufacturer’s product if its terms do not meet the dist.’s needs/wants, such as too high a retail price, not enough margin, etc. The whole thing reeks of capitalism if you ask me <VBG. Jerry Cobb Nashville, TN
You mean the inverse of capitalism – capitalism is when market demand determines the price not when a supplier controls the price. If all of us stopped buying because the price was too high then the prices would come down. That would be capitalism at work.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Any given manufacturer can REQUIRE its distributors to sell at a certain price, as long as it is part of the agreement to distribute the product, although typically the agreements state a retail price that cannot be lowered. Any distributor can REFUSE to sell a manufacturer’s product if its terms do not meet the dist.’s needs/wants, such as too high a retail price, not enough margin, etc. The whole thing reeks of capitalism if you ask me <VBG. Jerry Cobb Nashville, TN You mean the inverse of capitalism – capitalism is when market demand determines the price not when a supplier controls the price. If all of us stopped buying because the price was too high then the prices would come down. That would be capitalism at work.
AMEN!
writes: If you don’t like the price DON’T BUY IT!!!! An expensive fly rod is hardly an essential item. They do cast better, but most any rod will cast better than the caster. What’s sad is that the public can’t get enough of these expensive rods! I’m sure that the materials, engineering, and demand are driving up the cost, but as long as people continue to be shell out the big bucks the manufacturers are not going to look for ways to cut costs. Just my opinion, Rob Gregoire
Rob, thats the reason I’m trying to get one at less than MSR.
My buddy and I both have a 590 RPL+ and I am amazed at the difference it has in the casting and overall sensitivity. Seriously they are unlike any rod I’ve ever thrown. It takes some getting used to the new feel it has, but now I won’t put it down for my other rods. Besides I’m not a big fan of noodle rods and the RPL+ rods are nice and stiff but forgiving in the tip. Plus you can’t beat the warranty. I’d definitely recommend one.
I am thinking about trying a RPL+, and have recently been looking at some of the spring catalogues for prices. Does everyone charge list price (or close to it) or is there someplace that offers at least some discount? There must be some entrepreneurs out there who are willing to take a little less to make a sale. Atlanta, Georgia Cashiers, North Carolina
Has anyone out there had any experience with the new SAGE RPL+ flyrods. Although I will cast before buy, Im relatively new to flyfishing and would appreciate comments.
I have cast but never fished an RPL+. It is a hell of a parking lot rod. It’s fairly easy to cast a lot of line with a nice tight lope (even for a lousy caster like me. It’s a very fast action rod. Whether it will work as well on the water depends, I think, on what type of fishing you will be doing with it and what sort of action you prefer. Logically, it would seem to be a better big fish rod (e.g. steelhead) where long casts amy be necessary than a spring creek brook trout rod. I casted the 8 wt. and while it was lots of fun in the lot, I generally like a some what slower rod (I prefered the Sage SP). Anyway, that’s my $.02. Andy
Has anyone out there had any experience with the new SAGE RPL+ flyrods. Although I will cast before buy, Im relatively new to flyfishing and would appreciate comments.
I’ll be teaching at Hollins College in Roanoke for the spring semester, February-May, and wonder if I should bring my gear with me…I know nothing about the nearby fishing, though I’ve fished some of the eastern streams.
I spend some time down in the Blacksburg area (Va Tech grad) and I’d like to hear about fly fishing opportunities in SW VA. So if you find out anything, let me know! Thanks
South fork of the HOlston river. Opposite the hatchery for about 200 yards up and downstream. incredibly huge trout. average is around 4 pounds. tough turf. go small and pray for rain. two weeks ago i landed a 23" rainbow. no joke. Bob Crawshaw Flyfishing Virginia, L.L.C. 804-467-6668