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Question:

Seriously, what about its environmental impact.  I just switched to tin splitshots and no longer wrap my flies with lead.  I do eat 25% of the fish I catch and like to hunt water fowl. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I guess I’m going to have to call that last fisherman I had this fall and ask him what brand of flouro he was using as there was a HUGE difference in visibility of the flouro vs mono. The flouro was extremely visible even through 18" to 24" of river water. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price :-) Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

  Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. Flouro isn’t my choice for dries but I do like it for nymphing. Overall, It’s not my choice for leader material because I don’t like making major changes to my leader just to switch between a dry and a nymph. However, in a situation like we had at the San Juan where there wasn’t much dry action, I will use it. I also like it on the dropper on a dry/dropper rig. Willi

Response:

  Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use   fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing   either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at   least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother. I used some of the second generation stuff on the Juan this year and it’s very strong, tough stuff. I’m as cheap as they come and I’m willing to pay the price.

The LAST thing you need, Willi especially on the San Juan, is fluorocarbon. In fact, in your case I think it’s unethical. :-)

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Way cool Alex, congrats on getting your KPOS…I know you will grow to love it, as I do…collect the whole set and be confident in the knowledge that you have saved the job of some little Korean cutie. ;-) Frank Sr. previous advice on tippet size noted

Response:

Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

The sinking doesn’t bother me much. In fact, it’s a positive, because I believe a tippet under the surface is less visible than one floating in the surface tension, especially in calm water and sunny conditions. I don’t think FC sinks readily enough to pull under the surface a well floating fly, although it may be a factor with waterlogged or otherwise marginal flies. My objection is just the stiffness, which complicates a drag-free drift.

Response:

I have used the Umpqua super fluoro and find it a lot softer than deceiver for higher knot strength. I like it and may, repeat, may change completely to it before the end of the season. (Consumer warning on above advice: yes I am commercially connected with Umpqua.) Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

Response:

Jon Cook writes: Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

Damn straight!  Makes it wonderful for nymphing.  <g   If you grease it to within ten inches of the fly, that portion will float, but the portion untreated will sink just below the surface, but not enough to sink the fly.  I don’t like its stiffness, however, for dries, but it is adequate when I am too lazy to switch. Dave

Response:

I have used the Umpqua super fluoro and find it a lot softer than deceiver for higher knot strength. I like it and may, repeat, may change completely to it before the end of the season. (Consumer warning on above advice: yes I am commercially connected with Umpqua.)

Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? I’ve had a few instances this season where a fisherman shows up with the new fluoro and the fish just don’t seem to want to eat his bug. I change him over to the old stuff (I use Umpqua but I’m not commercially connected to them) and, bammo, lots more hits with the same fly and all. I’ve held a rolled up fluoro leader next to a rolled up regular leader under water. I can see the fluoro plain as day. Couldn’t hardly see the other stuff. I’m trying to recall what brands were the suspect material but for the life of me, I can’t recall. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Response:

Brian Nelson writes: Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater?

Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.  YMMV, of course.  <g Dave

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Brian Nelson writes: Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.  YMMV, of course.  <g Dave

Response:

"Brian D. Nelson" Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? I’ve had a few instances this season where a fisherman shows up with the new fluoro and the fish just don’t seem to want to eat his bug. I change him over to the old stuff (I use Umpqua but I’m not commercially connected to them) and, bammo, lots more hits with the same fly and all. I’ve held a rolled up fluoro leader next to a rolled up regular leader under water. I can see the fluoro plain as day. Couldn’t hardly see the other stuff. I’m trying to recall what brands were the suspect material but for the life of me, I can’t recall.

I haven’t had any real problems at all brian, but one thing I find interesting when fishing dries on fluoro is that it seems to have more trouble breaking the surface tension. When fishing on stillwaters I have all manner of problems getting it to sink at all. Of course, once it does break though it sinks faster than mono but getting it to break through can be a heck of a problem.. any thoughts. Clark

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Could it be floating more as I mentioned above? I believe the "imprint" in the surface film is the biggest problem with it on smoother waters. Clark

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com Could it be floating more as I mentioned above? I believe the "imprint" in the surface film is the biggest problem with it on smoother waters.

Could be. All I know is it was very easily seen while under water whereas the mono basically disappeared and it did make a big difference (at least to me it did) in the number of fish that came up to eat the bug. I’ll have to do a little ’speriment the next time I have some available. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Response:

The sinking doesn’t bother me much. In fact, it’s a positive, because I believe a tippet under the surface is less visible than one floating in the surface tension, especially in calm water and sunny conditions. I don’t think FC sinks readily enough to pull under the surface a well floating fly, although it may be a factor with waterlogged or otherwise marginal flies. My objection is just the stiffness, which complicates a drag-free drift.

I’ve used it a good bit and the sinking doesn’t seem to be a problem (I agree with RW’s comment about it), but FC does appear to break more easily at the knot. Maybe that’s a function of its stiffness, but I believe FC’s advantage in visibility is outweighed by its stiffness, relative fragility at the knot, and expense. Bob

Response:

Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.

Funny, last year I took along the Orvis FC to the Salmon R, & it seemed to suffer more abrasion than plain mono.   So much so, I almost abandoned fluorocarbon for fear that all the surface abrasion would negate the refractive advantages.   (Then again this was 2x stuff, so it was a lot more visible to begin with.) Joe F.

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies?

After buying a new rod, that is exactly what I wonder too. Depends on how bushy the flies are and other conditions.  Experiment.  Use a tippet that will cast the fly where you want it, but not stiff enough to lay out straight.  Start with, say, 5x and see if it curls up nicely for you.

Response:

Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff.

reasons not to use flourocarbon: 1) too stiff for many purposes (harder to make a drag free float) 2) more expensive 3) hardness makes good knots elusive: IE the line doesn’t break, but    knots often unravel 4) the stiffness of the line can cause hellatious tangles.    …accidentally bounce the leader off a branch and you often    reel back a monstrous spider web. 5) environmental pollution:    nylon absorbs water and breaks down with UV exposure.    nylon lasts a long time, but flourocarbon lasts (by comparison) forever.

Response:

"while_1" reasons not to use flourocarbon: 1) too stiff for many purposes (harder to make a drag free float) 2) more expensive 3) hardness makes good knots elusive: IE the line doesn’t break, but    knots often unravel 4) the stiffness of the line can cause hellatious tangles.    …accidentally bounce the leader off a branch and you often    reel back a monstrous spider web. 5) environmental pollution:    nylon absorbs water and breaks down with UV exposure.    nylon lasts a long time, but flourocarbon lasts (by comparison)

forever. Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. 1) The new generation stuff is more supple than many equivalent monos. 2) Yep it is, but as you don’t have to refresh your stocks each season it can be more value for money for many. 3) This has been pretty much negated. 4) The stiffness has gone. 5) Mono isn’t exactly environmentally friendly either. The onus is on the angler to ensure adequate cleanup of excess pieces. In a reality sense the length of time flouro stays on snag isn’t all that different to mono. Clark Clark

Response:

Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono.

The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price :-) Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

"rw" < – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price :-) Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

I would agree to some degree with your conclusions. I don’t think the differences are THAT huge. But I think there are differences and times will arise where one will give you an advantage over the other. I don’t believe either material is perfect in  certain circumstances one will out perform the other. Having said that. My preliminary results using the new Super-Flouro is pretty encouraging. I’m not using it totally exclusively, but at the moment that’s only because I haven’t to been able to get it in all the sizes I want. I think I will but that doesn’t mean I wont find situations where I wont find a situation where I’ll want to use mono anymore either. Clark

Response:

I guess I’m going to have to call that last fisherman I had this fall and ask him what brand of flouro he was using as there was a HUGE difference in visibility of the flouro vs mono. The flouro was extremely visible even through 18" to 24" of river water. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price :-) Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

  Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use   fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing   either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at   least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother. I used some of the second generation stuff on the Juan this year and it’s very strong, tough stuff. I’m as cheap as they come and I’m willing to pay the price. Willi

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Response:

4x to 5x works well.  I am leary of flourocarbon.  The stuff reminds me of the gas that breaks down the ozone in solid form.  Presentation is everything.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies?

5x normally. If the conditions are really difficult (very clear, smooth water, bright sunlight, picky fish) then 6x might be better. Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rod » Recreational kayaks for fishing?

Recreational kayaks for fishing?

Question:

Folding Kayaks are very stable and are used for fishing. Look at www.folbot.com and www.klepperusa.com. Artie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone: I have been doing some research on recreational kayaks for the main purposes of lake paddling and FISHING. Some of them are: a. Old Town: Loon 111 and Loon 100 b. Perception: Swifty, Sierra, and Acadia c. Wilderness Systems: Pungo, Bandit, and Critter d. Necky: Sky e. Heritage Kayaks: Featherlite For those who fish from a recreational kayak: 1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest? 2. How have you rigged it for fishing? 3. Any website with information and pictures on rigging a kayak for fishing? Thanks a lot for your help. Javier Woodbridge, VA

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone: I have been doing some research on recreational kayaks for the main purposes of lake paddling and FISHING. Some of them are: a. Old Town: Loon 111 and Loon 100 b. Perception: Swifty, Sierra, and Acadia c. Wilderness Systems: Pungo, Bandit, and Critter d. Necky: Sky e. Heritage Kayaks: Featherlite For those who fish from a recreational kayak: 1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest? 2. How have you rigged it for fishing? 3. Any website with information and pictures on rigging a kayak for fishing? Thanks a lot for your help. Javier Woodbridge, VA

The outdoors editor for the Houston Chronicle was a kayak fisherman…. From my kayak experience – get as wide a boat as possible. Wide equals stable and that is a good thing for moving and fishing (but a bit slower for kayaking). Obviously large cockpit opening is good too! paul — PAUL OMAN Offered By: Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Frog Pond Hollow 48 Wildwood Drive – Pittsfield, NH 03263 603-435-7199   FAX 603-435-7182 HOURS: 10-5  Mon-Thur Eastern Time VISA or MasterCard Accepted http://www.epoxyproducts.com VIEW OFFICES: http://www.picturetrail.com/p.oman/289271 PRODUCTS/PRICES: http://www.epoxyproducts4u.com FAQ: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/25points4u.html BOATING: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html

Response:

Also consider the Perception Keowee. My Keowee II is about 31" wide which makes it about the widest recreational kayak and it is very stable. Lynn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been doing some research on recreational kayaks for the main purposes of lake paddling and FISHING. Some of them are: a. Old Town: Loon 111 and Loon 100 b. Perception: Swifty, Sierra, and Acadia c. Wilderness Systems: Pungo, Bandit, and Critter d. Necky: Sky e. Heritage Kayaks: Featherlite For those who fish from a recreational kayak: 1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest? 2. How have you rigged it for fishing? 3. Any website with information and pictures on rigging a kayak for fishing? Thanks a lot for your help. Javier Woodbridge, VA The outdoors editor for the Houston Chronicle was a kayak fisherman…. From my kayak experience – get as wide a boat as possible. Wide equals stable and that is a good thing for moving and fishing (but a bit slower for kayaking). Obviously large cockpit opening is good too! paul

Response:

I don’t fish from a kayak, but have friends who do and they recommend a kayak that was produced only briefly by Perception.  It was the Axxess Backcountry – which was a modification to the Axxess which was perfectly modified in various ways for fishing.   The design was by Jim Snyder – maybe he could steer you to someone who could lay you up one in glass.  (The Perception model was in plastic.)  Jim’s website is for his paddles, but you can access his email from there and maybe he could help you out. http://www.jimisnyder.com – Mothra

Response:

also might check out the  kiwi "Lobo", very similar to the swifty. head over to www.paddling.net and post your question there also, i know quite a few folks there fish from their yaks. good luck, paddle on….

Response:

1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest?

I like the Wilderness Systems Ride SOT model for fly fishing. It works great for slow moving rivers and inshore lakes and saltwater. 2. How have you rigged it for fishing?

I added a couple of Scotty fly rod holders and rigged a couple of eyelets and a jam cleat so I can use a float tube anchor attached to the bow. — Charlie…

Response:

**** Post for FREE via your newsreader at post.usenet.com **** I fish out of a Wilderness Systems Pungo.  I live on a large but narrow impoundment (Herrington Lake).  The Pungo tracks extremely well for a 12′ kayak, yet turns easily with a lean.  The heavy motorboat traffic in the summer does not cause me any problems.  The large cockpit has room for a lot of gear, including space behind the seat.  I would highly recommend this boat.  Mine has no special rigging for fishing other than a set of paddle clips/rod holder for use while paddling to a fishing spot.  I generally use a fly rod and even troll with it just leaning out over the bow with the reel sitting in the cup holder. You might find the following web site of interest (no affiliation): http://www.kayakfishing.com/ Conrad Shiba Danville, KY  *** Usenet.com – The #1 Usenet Newsgroup Service on The Planet! ***                       http://www.usenet.com

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Hello everyone: I have been doing some research on recreational kayaks for the main purposes of lake paddling and FISHING. Some of them are: a. Old Town: Loon 111 and Loon 100 b. Perception: Swifty, Sierra, and Acadia c. Wilderness Systems: Pungo, Bandit, and Critter d. Necky: Sky e. Heritage Kayaks: Featherlite For those who fish from a recreational kayak: 1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest? 2. How have you rigged it for fishing? 3. Any website with information and pictures on rigging a kayak for fishing? Thanks a lot for your help. Javier Woodbridge, VA

Response:

 I fish from a Perception America. Added deck lines, two each flush mount and deck mount rod-holders. Used to have a depth finder installed but I removed it for another kayak. There are some pictures at http://casualkayaker.tripod.com. I have found very few sites for recreational kayaks so far. Phil Rowe message – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone: I have been doing some research on recreational kayaks for the main purposes of lake paddling and FISHING. Some of them are: a. Old Town: Loon 111 and Loon 100 b. Perception: Swifty, Sierra, and Acadia c. Wilderness Systems: Pungo, Bandit, and Critter d. Necky: Sky e. Heritage Kayaks: Featherlite For those who fish from a recreational kayak: 1. Is there any particular brand/model that you will strongly suggest? 2. How have you rigged it for fishing? 3. Any website with information and pictures on rigging a kayak for fishing? Thanks a lot for your help. Javier Woodbridge, VA

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fly Fishing Training

Fly Fishing Training

Question:

Some of the fly shops in MA offer casting classes/lessons directly, or offer arrangements with private concerns (Orvis being one). But this late in the season might make for slim pickings. I’d start working through the list of local fly shops and ask if they have anything available. Try American Angler in Salem, The Lower Forty in Worcester, Stoddards in Boston, etc. /daytripper – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Anyone know of any Fly Fishing Training schools or whatever in the Massachusetts area? Where in MA do you live? You might be better off to join a club and take advantage of their resources. I don’t know of any "schools" in MA, but there are private instructors. Orvis runs schools in Manchester, VT. see www.orvis.com George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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Anyone know of any Fly Fishing Training schools or whatever in the Massachusetts area? Been doing a lot of other fishing but am eager to learn fly fishing… Any guidance would be appreciated. I know its coming to the end of the season, but I’ll have all winter to practice. But thats my opinion, I may be wrong.              -dennis miller

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Anyone know of any Fly Fishing Training schools or whatever in the Massachusetts area?

Where in MA do you live? You might be better off to join a club and take advantage of their resources. I don’t know of any "schools" in MA, but there are private instructors. Orvis runs schools in Manchester, VT. see www.orvis.com George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Horses and flyfishing redux

Horses and flyfishing redux

Question:

Awhile ago I posted a question about using horses for flyfishing (for riding to the spots, not for materials), and got some helpful replies. Well, I’m gonna do it. I found a place to pasture a horse about five miles from Stanley, for $35 a month! I can’t imagine what it would cost me to keep a horse in Menlo Park, CA. It would be a choice between that and sending my kids to college. It’s a beautiful pasture on 40 acres owned by a crusty oldimer who used to live in my cabin way back when. I think he’ll show this greenhorn the ropes. His place is right at the foot of the Sawtooths, next to some beautiful country with high lakes. I’ve found I’m too old to hump my gear up to the high country. I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO As the "bank" side of a four horse stable for my daughter I got a tremendous laugh out of your post!! Thanks for the moments of "unbridled" (to make a poor horse pun) laughter – horse laughter even. You have made my day brighter! The down side is that if you think   " I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. " is a realistic budget for

messin’ with horses you got "anuther think" coming. They can get pretty expensive – and I didn’t see any mention of YOUR medical bills ;-) Best of luck, but it sounds like someone offered to "git chew inna horse bidness right". GB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Awhile ago I posted a question about using horses for flyfishing (for riding to the spots, not for materials), and got some helpful replies. Well, I’m gonna do it. I found a place to pasture a horse about five miles from Stanley, for $35 a month! I can’t imagine what it would cost me to keep a horse in Menlo Park, CA. It would be a choice between that and sending my kids to college. It’s a beautiful pasture on 40 acres owned by a crusty oldimer who used to live in my cabin way back when. I think he’ll show this greenhorn the ropes. His place is right at the foot of the Sawtooths, next to some beautiful country with high lakes. I’ve found I’m too old to hump my gear up to the high country. I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me. Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what?

Doesn’t everybody take their horse to the hairdresser and get it manicured?!?! You must not have cared for your horse if you didn’t call the vet everytime it farted, coughed or sneezed because those are signs of serious illness! Especially the farting "Doc, I just don’t know what to do.  My horse keeps breaking wind even at a standstill!" On a serious note, I would look to spend a little more than $1000 for a trailer and $500 for tack.  Make sure to check the floor of the trailer.  Not a good idea to buy a trailer then have to fix it.  And make sure to actually sit in the saddle and make sure it is comfortable (preferably on the intended horse). When I say comfortable I mean for the horse AND you.   Just some suggestions. Besides, what’s the worst that can happen?  Find out it isn’t going to work out and then sell everything? Warren

Response:

Doesn’t everybody take their horse to the hairdresser and get it manicured?!?! You must not have cared for your horse if you didn’t call the vet everytime it farted, coughed or sneezed because those are signs of serious illness! Especially the farting "Doc, I just don’t know what to do.  My horse keeps breaking wind even at a standstill!" On a serious note, I would look to spend a little more than $1000 for a trailer and $500 for tack.  

Probably right. When I actually start buying things I tend to spend far more than my minimum estimates because I’d rather have nice things, as long as I get value for my money. Of course, I’ll have to reserve a few thousand for hairdressing and manicures. On a side note, lots of people ride Harley Davidson motorcycles around here. I’ve had a few bikes and I’ve always wanted a Harley, so I was musing about getting one. Then I thought about the comparatively low cost of a horse and how many more hours of enjoyment I’d get out of it, and there was no contest. Probably after I get the horse I’ll start thinking about Harleys again. Make sure to check the floor of the trailer.  Not a good idea to buy a trailer then have to fix it.  And make sure to actually sit in the saddle and make sure it is comfortable (preferably on the intended horse). When I say comfortable I mean for the horse AND you.   Just some suggestions.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions, WFin66. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To all – I couldn’t help myself… I hope RW dosen’t take it as a flame – wasn’t meant that way. On the other hand, when he mentioned those "pocket change" items – maybe he has BIG POCKETS and LOTS OF CHANGE!! ;-) $2000 for a horse and $1000 for a trailer. Do you expect shots, shoeing, and so on to be significant compared to that? Perhaps unlike your daughters, I’m not real sentimental about animals (except for my Golden Retriever). If I were looking at a bottomless pit of medical expenses for an animal I’d cut my losses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen

I’ll do that. The "pocket change" phrase was hyberbole. BTW, I’m not merely speculating. Like everything I do that requires significant outlays of cash, I’ve been looking into it pretty carefully. I’ve long wanted a horse or two, but having them at my California residence would be an absurd waste of money — something for billionares in Woodside. Here in Idaho it looks like a bargain, plus I’d be pasturing them right next to some great country. Most enjoyable things require some money (at least, the things I enjoy), but I’m no sucker, which you implied I was, and which frankly pissed me off. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Gee RW, as I mentioned before, my comments were NOT made to, as you say it "piss you off", but I DID find a GREAT deal of humor in your original thesis. This message sounds much more rational, as though you are now considering the big picture. I too enjoy the horses. I have liked them for years and only bought some in the past few years. We were terribly naive when we got started (we actually thought ONE bale of hay was significant!! – now we buy *hundreds* of bales in one trip). No, we do not go to the horseyhairdresser, but we DO take VERY good care of ALL our animals. Perhaps I was too flip in my original response to the group. I truly would not want to see anyone have a bad horse experience and it sounded like that is where you were headed. So sorry I hurt your feelings! Glen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen I’ll do that. The "pocket change" phrase was hyberbole. BTW, I’m not merely speculating. Like everything I do that requires significant outlays of cash, I’ve been looking into it pretty carefully. I’ve long wanted a horse or two, but having them at my California residence would be an absurd waste of money — something for billionares in Woodside. Here in Idaho it looks like a bargain, plus I’d be pasturing them right next to some great country. Most enjoyable things require some money (at least, the things I enjoy), but I’m no sucker, which you implied I was, and which frankly pissed me off. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Perhaps I was too flip in my original response to the group. <

Pretty hard to be *too* flip!  <g

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me.  Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what? — Levi I have been through some terrible things in my life – some of which actually happened.  –Mark Twain

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Hey! Attributions are in order – lest you be accused of plagiarizing the best line that Chill Wills ever delivered… /daytripper (lessee who remembers…)

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me.  Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what?

Ha! Good one, Levi. I can just picture his daughters’ horses with little ribbon curliques in their manes. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

To all – I couldn’t help myself… I hope RW dosen’t take it as a flame – wasn’t meant that way. On the other hand, when he mentioned those "pocket change" items – maybe he has BIG POCKETS and LOTS OF CHANGE!! ;-)

$2000 for a horse and $1000 for a trailer. Do you expect shots, shoeing, and so on to be significant compared to that? Perhaps unlike your daughters, I’m not real sentimental about animals (except for my Golden Retriever). If I were looking at a bottomless pit of medical expenses for an animal I’d cut my losses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

The immortal "Dr. Strangelove", of course. That was Slim Pickins. My favorite Chill Wills movie was probably "The Rounders" (unless you count the "Over the Hill Gang" TV stuff, that was great).

On the other hand, Slim Pickens DID deliver that line in a most artful fashion in Dr. Strangelove and in one of the most memorable scenes in movie history. Wolfgang (Whose practice in ducking and covering still serves him well to this day)

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » River Fly Fishing » Lake Superior Prov park/Wawa area

Lake Superior Prov park/Wawa area

Question:

Does anyone have any favorite fly fishing sites in the area around Lake Superior Provincial Park and Wawa? Thanks in advance Brian

I think you’ll have your best luck in the Wawa.

Response:

Does anyone have any favorite fly fishing sites in the area around Lake Superior Provincial Park and Wawa?

Yes. Tom Burczyk

Response:

says… Does anyone have any favorite fly fishing sites in the area around Lake Superior Provincial Park and Wawa? Thanks in advance Brian

It’s been awhile since my last visit, but I’ve caught some nice fish on the Batchawana(sp) river.

Response:

Thanks in advance Brian

What time of year? The first two weeks in August

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Does anyone have any favorite fly fishing sites in the area around Lake Superior Provincial Park and Wawa? Thanks in advance Brian

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Trout Fly Fishing » Fishing threatens to be banned from Holland

Fishing threatens to be banned from Holland

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Dutch government intends to forbid live bait fishing (i.e., fishing with living fish, minnows, etc.) starting January 1, 1997.  If you think this is none of your business, please read on.  Eventually, perhaps sooner than you think, this plan might restrict anyone’s freedom to fish. Not allowing live bait fishing is of course nothing new.  It is in effect in several countries in Europe and, if I am correctly informed, also in some states in the US of A.  Some fishing associations also allow only artificial bait in (some of) the waters they rent.  The reasons vary from country tot country and from place to place.  So what else is new, why should you care? What’s new is, that our government uses an ethical argument: the fish feel pain, suffer, etc.  As you might expect, our government’s current viewpoint is the result of a protracted lobby of the Dutch Animal Rights movement, which have for years argued against fishing for ethical reasons, although the scientific basis for ‘the ethical argument’ seems to be weak.  In fact, neurological evidence points in the opposite direction: fish don’t have the brain structures that are held responsible for feelings of pain and suffering in mammals. Forbidding life bait fishing for ethical reasons is alarming, because once you use an ethical argument against life bait fishing, it’s hard not to apply it to fishing in general and, consequently, forbid fishing entirely.  Of course, the long-term goal of our Animal Rights movement is just that. If fishing is no longer allowed in one country, this will surely encourage Animal Rights movements in other countries to strive for something similar. It is for this reason that I think that fishermen in other countries should care. Lots of fishermen in The Netherlands have written letters of protest to the political parties that support the government’s intention.  Letters from fishermen in other countries would also be most welcome and very much appreciated, the more the better.  We have ridiculously many political parties, but four of them really matter here: PvdA, D66, VVD, and CDA (the latter two do not have a very strong opinion on the matter, but they are among the largest parties). If you would like to support us, please send an E-mail to them.  They should be addressed as follows:                             E-mail address If you write a letter of protest, please be polite.  It wouldn’t do any harm, however, when you pointed out that you would not feel terribly at ease in a country that forbids life bait fishing and that therefore … Because I would like to know whether a protest like this can be organized on the net, I would appreciate being informed by those who do send a letter of I’ll let you know what happens. This is the first posting of this letter.  It will probably be posted by me two times more in the next two weeks. Leo Beem E-mail:

until it’s too late.We in America keep suupporting ,subconciously,politicians who have no balls to stand up to Amimal rights nonsense.Just like gun-ownership and hunting,we will become the fringe ,as the media and liberal politician will paint us .Then ultimately bans on bait will be seen as the middle ground,and then bans on hook barbs,thenbans on anything but fly fishing,then a total ban.And yes ,the fly fishermen will go along with all of this,as their exclusive sense of moral righteousness,and sportsmanship will encourage this type of political crap.     If you don’t believe me,go talk to some members of trout unlimited,who will tell you they are ethically superior in their means of sportsmanship,Of course baitfishing is considered "unsporting" and fishing with barbed hooks is "deadly to the fish".     The other example I have to offer is the so-called assault weapon.Go to a skeet match and speak to the elite shotgunners with Perazzi’s and Beretta’s.They will tell you what neanderthals those men are who own semi-auto rifles and large magazines.They will tell you they should be banned.So you see,Americans have no unity in their ranks.We will lose our outdoor heritage,as our membership continues to compromise on what they consider moral,and ethical

Response:

The Dutch government intends to forbid live bait fishing (i.e., fishing with living fish, minnows, etc.) starting January 1, 1997.  If you think this is none of your business, please read on.  Eventually, perhaps sooner than you think, this plan might restrict anyone’s freedom to fish. Not allowing live bait fishing is of course nothing new.  It is in effect in several countries in Europe and, if I am correctly informed, also in some states in the US of A.  Some fishing associations also allow only artificial bait in (some of) the waters they rent.  The reasons vary from country tot country and from place to place.  So what else is new, why should you care?  What’s new is, that our government uses an ethical argument: the fish feel pain, suffer, etc.  As you might expect, our government’s current viewpoint is the result of a protracted lobby of the Dutch Animal Rights movement, which have for years argued against fishing for ethical reasons, although the scientific basis for ‘the ethical argument’ seems to be weak.  In fact, neurological evidence points in the opposite direction: fish don’t have the brain structures that are held responsible for feelings of pain and suffering in mammals.   Forbidding life bait fishing for ethical reasons is alarming, because once you use an ethical argument against life bait fishing, it’s hard not to apply it to fishing in general and, consequently, forbid fishing entirely. Of course, the long-term goal of our Animal Rights movement is just that. If fishing is no longer allowed in one country, this will surely encourage Animal Rights movements in other countries to strive for something similar. It is for this reason that I think that fishermen in other countries should care. Lots of fishermen in The Netherlands have written letters of protest to the political parties that support the government’s intention.  Letters from fishermen in other countries would also be most welcome and very much appreciated, the more the better.  We have ridiculously many political parties, but four of them really matter here: PvdA, D66, VVD, and CDA (the latter two do not have a very strong opinion on the matter, but they are among the largest parties). If you would like to support us, please send an E-mail to them.  They should be addressed as follows:                             E-mail address If you write a letter of protest, please be polite.  It wouldn’t do any harm, however, when you pointed out that you would not feel terribly at ease in a country that forbids life bait fishing and that therefore … Because I would like to know whether a protest like this can be organized on the net, I would appreciate being informed by those who do send a letter I’ll let you know what happens. This is the first posting of this letter.  It will probably be posted by me two times more in the next two weeks. Leo Beem

Response:

Please be aware that in many states in the good old USA live bait is restricted for reasons other than cruelty. Many fish species used for bait are not indigenous to the local ecology. Introducing foreign species to certain lakes and ponds can wreak havoc and destroy the local ecology. These introduced species can thrive in ares where natural competition is not present. Many states restrict live bait for these reasons. You would be amazed how many so called sportsmen have introduced fish species into local ecologies via bait and or intentionally trying to stock and improve their local fishery. A VERY bad idea.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » FOR SALE – ORVIS

FOR SALE – ORVIS

Question:

fishing in SW MO

Response:

<snip I have for sale a complete set of Orvis 5 wt far and fine rod, battenkill reel,fully outfitted including aluminum case with cover. <snip

Bob, I tried to send you mail at the above address, and my mail kicked it back several times.  Anyway, I’ll give you $325 for the Far and Fine, if you still have it.  Does it still have the reel case, backing and line? Let me know what you think, Kevin

Response:

Hallelujah, hallelujah!

Response:

Regarding the demise of the FF Boom ( Orvis for sale):      First I must say that I AM a yuppie by the standards set by the politically correct, in who knows where. But, I just got LUCKY and succeeded early. In fact, I still consider myself an ex hippie who is still trying to grow up, and most times not sure I really should.  I started FFishing at the age of 15 (on my own) and have flicked the fly now for 25 years.     Now that I have delivered my disclaimor… I have felt for a long time that the sport was getting a little frothy. A few events really got to me in the past year: 1) Brocaw, on the nightly news, announced that there would be a sub anchor because he was goin "Flyfishing in Montana" 2) There was a cellular phone ad on TV with a guy streamside, wrapping up a contract deal on his cellular. 3) A friend of mine, Gus Serven, and I shared a booth at the big FF show in Denver last Sept.  Gus invented "FLOTPAK", a simple device that keeps your floatant hanging from your vest, i.e. available, when you need it, as opposed to having to rummage through your vest to find it.  It is a similar concept to the now famous "Zinger". Well, at the Denver show, there were 5 (FIVE) merchants who had copied his idea and were hawking their new "break-through" product. FLOTPAK had been patented for two years before the show. Flotpak is NOT rocket science…just a simple idea.  If you had the entire world market for the thing it still wouldn’t make a guy rich. 4) Darryl Osborn, of Hamilton, Mt, developed a great personal river float craft called "River Otter". I counted 9 spin-offs at that show.     The above tells me that the bloom is off the rose. Before FF, the social craze was  tennis..then golf..then mountain bikes..etc ..etc.. The GREAT news, from my vantage point, is that FF is no longer the sport of choice among the elite in NY, L.A. or wherever.      Well, its about time! I want to fish in peace. I do feel sorry for the fly shop owners, but the good ones will survive and prosper. Same with the guides. It was fun at first being a fan of the "in" sport ( made me feel like I was doing something important), but I’m glad the fad thing is fading away.  I just feel sorry for the fans of the next sport or pursuit that is ready to accepted by the media mainstream.      So..if we FFishers are finally free  of the avante garde crap, we will blissfully fish in peace! To quote Al Beatty "Halleilula!" Dale Owens

Response:

A year ago I thought I would do a lot of flyfishing. I have since given up the ghost. I have for sale a complete set of Orvis 5 wt far and fine rod, battenkill reel,fully outfitted including aluminum case with cover. I paid over $425 for it. Would someone make me a offer and I will send out, immediately, to you. I also have a Wheatley 16 compartment aluminum fly box and about ten flys. This, I paid over $60 for (not  including flys)..it is still in the origional case unused. The Orvis Far and Fine set I used exactly three times.Anyone interested in making a serious offer either send me a note on this newsboard or contact me via

Response:

: A year ago I thought I would do a lot of flyfishing. I have since given up the : ghost. This is r.o.f.f’s first post from beyond the grave…  I have for sale a complete set of Orvis 5 wt far and fine rod, battenkill : reel,fully outfitted including aluminum case with cover. I paid over $425 for it. : Would someone make me a offer and I will send out, immediately, to you. I also : have a Wheatley 16 compartment aluminum fly box and about ten flys. This, I : paid over $60 for (not  including flys)..it is still in the origional case unused. Ah, the Wheatly fly box- that gorgeous piece of work that looks so refined, so elegant, and so….British. As Geirach points out, everyone who buys one ends up leaving the damn bulky, heavy thing at home and carrying a little plastic box instead ;-) –mike

Response:

A year ago I thought I would do a lot of flyfishing. I have since given up the ghost.

I’d like to see about 3 million more posts like this. John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

Response:

: A year ago I thought I would do a lot of flyfishing. I have since given : up… :I’d like to see about 3 million more posts like this. A couple weeks ago I talked to the guys at a major ff shop here in Seattle.  They said the ff business has "reached a plateau" after some years of continuous growth.  I wondered if perhaps the yuppwardly mobile set was bailing out.  They thought that might be a factor. Sadly, the staff at another (v. major) local ff shop got thinner recently too.  The guys at the first shop thought leaner times were to be blamed.   Best, -AR P.S.  Anybody interested in a lightly used Orvis Jeep?

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rods » Graphite Rods with slower

Graphite Rods with slower

Question:

Try Cortland gf1000, not expensive and very feely

Response:

Levine) writes: I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

Last year I bought a 7 foot 4 weight, parabolic action rod under the name Versatex. I believe it was manufactured in Pennsylvania. Prior to purchase I was able to compare a Fisher and a Loomis of the same length/weight ratio. Both the Fisher and Loomis were stiff as broomsticks and would not cast over 45 feet. This little Vesatex cast over 65 feet and had a nice medium action feel. I was purposely looking for a slower rod for the little ones on some of the Sierra streams. The price was about half that of the two name brands mentioned. I can’t vouch for the other rods in their line, actually I did’nt like the 9 foot 6 weight at all, but this particular model was so good that 3 other of my club members purchased one after trying mine out. — Guy Manning

Response:

I have a Sage 490 Lightline, their slow action rod in 4 wt/9 ft. Very smooth feel, casts nicely to 60 ft, length makes for great roll casts.  I think it is about $390.  You can buy the blanks for about $150 from Sage and have someone build the rod, which saves a little money.  

Response:

: I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up : (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. : Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more : traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo. Thomas and Thomas heritage series.  Very nice feel, with that slow cane action.  I’ve heard that the Hexagraph rods are also nice, and the winstons are pretty slow for graphite. I still like the T&T ‘tho…..     best, Hans — Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

Response:

I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

Response:

says… I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

        Philip,         That’s easy! Powell makes two series of rod that might fit your casting tastes. The West Branch and the Signature Series are the models. Also, the Scott Rod Co. in Telluride, Co. makes an outstanding rod that has a little more back bone. There is one however that I’ve never cast or seen and that is a Hexagraph. I have seen it advertised in several of the magazines. It claims to be a bamboo rod, but made out of graphite.                                 Good luck,                                 Clint Bailey

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » flyfishing web sites

flyfishing web sites

Question:

Any suggestions for where to find flyfishing sites on the worldwide web? Is this in a fishing FAQ?  If so where is it?                  /                 /                                            John Woodling              o/                                             Sacramento, CA              /                                                                <     <

Response:

Any suggestions for where to find flyfishing sites on the worldwide web? Is this in a fishing FAQ?  If so where is it?

I keep a fly fishing web page mostly dedicated to the state of Arizona, but also with some more general information, including a long list of links to other pages.  I hope this helps. John Shannon Fly Fishing in Arizona http://www.indirect.com/user/jshannon

Response:

Any suggestions for where to find flyfishing sites on the worldwide

web? For starters, try  http://www.geo.mtu.edu/~jsuchosk/fish/fishpage This has a lot of hypertext leads to other places.  It’ll keep you surfing until the green drakes hatch.                                           Catch and release,                                                              Phil Holt

Response:

: Any suggestions for where to find flyfishing sites on the worldwide web? : Is this in a fishing FAQ?  If so where is it? :     Hi- FAQ URL: http://www.geo.mtu.edu:80/~jsuchosk/fish/all-faqs.html List of flyfishing web sites (and fishing sites in general): http://www.gorp.com/gorp/activity/fishing.htm Hope this helps, Diane

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rod » advise requested re float tubes for fishing

advise requested re float tubes for fishing

Question:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron Ronald W Becker California " looking here and there for an interesting sight or two"

Response:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron

    My advise, as both a warm and cold water tuber, is to borrow one and fish the waters where you will want to spend most of your time. Find out as cheaply as possable if it is for you. Ask your fishing buddies or the tubers that you see at your lake. Folks love to share their experiences!     You will hear that one type of geer is best or that you will need such and such a thing, unless you have money to burn go slow. Some of the young guys like to use big hard fins that would kill me. So what is perfect for others is not always right for you. I started out with the cheapest, bare bones tube that I could find. Fished it for large mouth bass in warm water for a spring/summer and was quite happy with what I could do with it. So, the next spring I took it up into the mountains, 10,000 feet, high and cold. Found out that I needed more stuff, neophrene waiders, thermals, and an air pump. My point is, to not buy everything that you think that you could possiably ever need when you start. Grow into it.     Also, after a couple tubes, I found that the delux, high priced models, didn’t really improve the experience for me and infact made it somewhat more difficult because I tended to fill up all the pockets with stuff and then had to carry/kick the added weight. Though for equipment junkies the added features is just great.      Tubes are great in my opinion, and if you think that you are interested in the quiet, solitude, control, and exercise, go for it! brian

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Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron

I was thinking of picking up a tube for river and pond fishing around Central Ohio late this summer, but decided on what is known as a kickboat.  If you don’t know, a kickboat is generally a small dual-pontoon type craft, with a fixed seat between the two pontoons.  Advantanges over tubes are that they are more stable, more comfortable, offer more storage, and you can add oar kits and even trolling motors to some.  Disadvantages are that they are slightly bigger, take more time to assemble, and are generally more expensive. I bought a J&R Outfitters Kingfisher III.  It’s a nice boat: the length is about 9′, very well constructed, and assembles very quickly.  I was also able to fit it in the back of my Eagle Talon!  I purchased mine with the optional oar kit (this is a fixed-oar kit with a kick bar to rest your feet), and a rear storage/cooler rack (will support up to 50 pounds).  The boat supports a total of 450 pounds, and again, is very stable.  I plan to buy the trolling motor when it’s ready in January. Again, they are expensive (I paid a total of 600.00 for the boat, oar kit, and storage rack, and the trolling motor kit will run 400.00), but I think they are better than tubes for a couple of reasons: one, you get a fixed seat with backrest and armrests. Secondly, you can get an oar kit, which is much better than kick-fins in most occassions.  Third, they hold more gear.  Lastly, you can keep your butt dry and not necessarily need waders!  They take a little while to assemble if you don’t put them together before leaving home (mine takes about 20 minutes including the 10 it takes to inflate the pontoons with a hand pump), and are heavy to lug around (although mine is a deluxe: you can get smaller, less expensive units that also weigh less), but I do like mine.   It was great catching the largest smallmouth I’ve ever caught (a little over 4 pounds) on it’s maden voyage! In all honesty, I’ll probably buy a tube this spring for the times I don’t need to cover a lot of water!

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: Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? : Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. : Thanks, Ron : Ronald W Becker : California : " looking here and there for an interesting sight or two"         Hey Ron,         Don’t use them in shark infested waters or in lakes with six foot snappin turtles!! Seriously, I’ve been fly fishing out of one for 2 years and love it. If fly fishing, I recomend at least an 8 ft rod. Also pisses the landlocked guys off when you haul in a trophy right out of their casting range!! Kinda fun!                                         dale — End of network mail

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Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ?

I would like to try this. But I don’t feel comfortable flowing down the river in a tube with myself somewhat tangled in it.  Can someone provide some statistics on the safety issue.  Thanks, Simon  

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