Question:

I read with interest the posts about Sage’s Lifetime Warranty, since about a month ago I made my first truly absurd flyfishing purchase, a Scott S3 5 weight 4 piece (I was able to get a $200.00 discount from the retail price, but that alone says how expensive they can be). All my previous experience has been with a fly rod from Walmart (literally), and an old St. Croix Legend 4 weight rod (what they now call an Imperial). With these rods you could lift a bowling ball without worrying about breaking the rod (well, not quite).  I used to wonder why other flyfishers broke rods so often, when I never really worried about it. One day with my Scott S3 showed me how fragile a fly rod can be.  I was playing a brown trout (best fish of the day) with too much of a jerking motion, and snap, the rod broke just above the first connection. I just finished composing my letter of woe to Scott, and after lunch the rod will be mailed. I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now. Memphis Jim (I can’t turn on the TV without seeing Elvis).

Response:

Scott is a *great* rod company. I’ve owned various Scott rods since 1975. I broke my STS 905-4 last year in Northern Quebec falling over a rock; all I had to send back to Scott was the lowest 14" of the handle–everything else was at the bottom of the headwaters of the Caniapiscau River. The rod was replaced promptly–no questions asked. There was *no* defect–it was a clumsy dumbass move on my part–and I was very honest and upfront with Scott by telling them that.   The lady I talked to said:  "An unconditional guarantee is just that–unconditional. Send it back to us–and we’ll ship you a new one." They did–promptly.   I have no idea if the Scott Rod Company will be around 5 years from now–but I certainly hope so.   Dave M

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I read with interest the posts about Sage’s Lifetime Warranty, since about a month ago I made my first truly absurd flyfishing purchase, a Scott S3 5 weight 4 piece (I was able to get a $200.00 discount from the retail price, but that alone says how expensive they can be). All my previous experience has been with a fly rod from Walmart (literally), and an old St. Croix Legend 4 weight rod (what they now call an Imperial). With these rods you could lift a bowling ball without worrying about breaking the rod (well, not quite).  I used to wonder why other flyfishers broke rods so often, when I never really worried about it. One day with my Scott S3 showed me how fragile a fly rod can be.  I was playing a brown trout (best fish of the day) with too much of a jerking motion, and snap, the rod broke just above the first connection. I just finished composing my letter of woe to Scott, and after lunch the rod will be mailed. I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now. Memphis Jim (I can’t turn on the TV without seeing Elvis).

Response:

I fell against a tree holding my Scott G906 last year.  The section just ahead of the grip was crushed.  Scott replaced the rod without question and I got GREAT service.  I’ll buy a Scott every chance I get.  Not only for their service, I prefer their action over most rods I run across. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I read with interest the posts about Sage’s Lifetime Warranty, since about a month ago I made my first truly absurd flyfishing purchase, a Scott S3 5 weight 4 piece (I was able to get a $200.00 discount from the retail price, but that alone says how expensive they can be). All my previous experience has been with a fly rod from Walmart (literally), and an old St. Croix Legend 4 weight rod (what they now call an Imperial). With these rods you could lift a bowling ball without worrying about breaking the rod (well, not quite).  I used to wonder why other flyfishers broke rods so often, when I never really worried about it. One day with my Scott S3 showed me how fragile a fly rod can be.  I was playing a brown trout (best fish of the day) with too much of a jerking motion, and snap, the rod broke just above the first connection. I just finished composing my letter of woe to Scott, and after lunch the rod will be mailed. I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now. Memphis Jim (I can’t turn on the TV without seeing Elvis).

Response:

Amen, Clark.  If these guys werent’t so busy breaking and crushing their Scott rods, maybe James Barna wouldn’t need a $200 discount to buy a new rod… Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter. Tom G

Haven’t broken one of my rod blanks yet (the fates will strike me for sure, now) but I did send back a Loomis GL3 8′ 3 wt. rod with a bend in the tip that I had not noticed when I bought it.  They replaced it with a rod that was worse (mushy action, off centre reel seat and epoxy on the seat threads).  I sent that one back to have the reel seat redone – OK after that but the action of rod no.2 wasn’t nearly as crisp as rod no.1 despite that they were supposed to be identical 3 wts.  A couple of months later, I sold rod no.2 on eBay to a guy that was looking for a slow 2/3 wt. – the Loomis fit the bill and he was a very happy camper.  I thought rod no.2 was crap – whatever floats your boat, I suppose.  Haven’t bought a Loomis product since.  They did repair and return promptly though, as  I suppose they get lots of practice. I also sent back a Hardy 3 wt. to Cortland as the handle cork cracked when fighting a nice, fat, little 16" steelhead that wasn’t supposed to be in that part of the stream.  It was repaired and returned promptly. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

 Perhaps a new poll is in order:  How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty  on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty,  lifetime warranty, no matter.    Tom G  I have returned many items over the years; my "satisfaction level" runs the whole range. Best of the best: Galvan reels- I called them and asked for a replacement part (my fault it broke), and they replaced the whole thing for free. St Croix rods- Super fast replacement, didn’t charge for shipping, didn’t care that I broke the rod in a bicycle accident. REC Components- Sent free parts to replace the ones I’d stupidly lost. Cabelas- No questions asked, ever. Okay service, but not dazzling: Sage- Two week turnaround, they always seem to charge for shipping. Cortland- Slow turn around time. Ross reels- They took care of the problem, but it shouldn’t be sooo recurring. Crappy service, they’ve lost a customer: Redington- Kept a returned custom rod, forcing me to replace all the components. Redington again- Required the original bill of sale (which I didn’t have) on a pair of waders with a supposed four year unconditional warranty, even though they’d only been selling those waders for two years. Trout Traps- "Nobody’s ever made that complaint, it must be your imagination." Worst of the worst: Airflo lines: "Uhh, you’re shit out of luck son."

Response:

      Fuck Redington and all the re-labled imported crap they sell. I will never spend another penny on their crap. Did you consider calling them and asking about obtaining the original? They are a pretty good group of guys to work with and I bet you could have received the original hardware.  The stuff may be re-labled, but it’s not all crap.

    Yup, I called them and they told me to piss off, they’d already discarded it. I met Jim Murphy a few years ago and he seemed like a pretty decent guy, but he has some bozos working for him. Anybody who builds rods would have known what to do, but nobody at Redington builds them, they are strictly a marketing operation. And their stuff may not be all crap, but none of it is made in this hemisphere.

Response:

Not bad for a bunch of them jamokes & scaramouches.   Meow. <vbg

Man, there’s nothing like a good Tony Germuga reference to brighten one’s day. Thanks, Joe. It’s the classics that keep ya coming back . – Sid …waiting for DaveS’s next installment in the "Two Dogs Fucking" saga.

Response:

Brought it into my flyshop (Coleman’s), No charge, not even shipping. Not bad for a bunch of them jamokes & scaramouches.   Meow. <vbg Joe F.

<SPLORK VANG MU — Scott Reverse first field of address to reply

Response:

    Fuck Redington and all the re-labled imported crap they sell. I will never spend another penny on their crap.

Did you consider calling them and asking about obtaining the original?   They are a pretty good group of guys to work with and I bet you could have received the original hardware.  The stuff may be re-labled, but it’s not all crap.

Response:

    Since everybody else is telling rod replacment stories, here’s my latest one.     A couple of years ago, I donated a 8′ 2wt Redington to a clave raffle. The rod was almost new, I’d fished it for less than hour. This was a custom built rod by a fairly experienced rod builder (me). The first time Willi took it out, the tip section snapped off. I returned the rod to Redington and recieved the entire rod back, along with a new tip section, so I was able to re-use all the old parts and face no out of pocket expenses, other than shipping.     Willi gave the rod to Warren last year. Warren didn’t even get it out of the tube; on a flight to somewhere, Warren got to his destination and removed the rod from the tube and found the tip section snapped off. I again returned the rod to Redington and they replaced it, but this time they kept the original, forcing me to buy all the parts I’d need to finish it. The parts they returned miked out exactly the same as the ones I sent in, so I think this is their not-so-subtle way of "taking care of" a problem customer (assuming they keep records of multiple returns).     Fuck Redington and all the re-labled imported crap they sell. I will never spend another penny on their crap.

Response:

Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter.

Tom, I’ve used the warranties on a number of products. 1. Patagonia waders. – Replaced with a new pair.  Initial estimate for replacement was 3-4 mos.  Ended up getting a new pair within a month. 2. Patagonia wading boots. – Replaced with a new pair. 3. Redington waders. – Replaced with a new pair.  Purchased first pair when I thought the Patagonia waders would take 3 mos to be replaced. 4. Scott Fly Rod – Repaired within a week. —  Nice shirt. Do they sell mens clothes where you bought that?

Response:

  Just for fun, I managed to break the same   six weight again on my very next trip to Minnesota (this on a 32" long   channel cat that ate my clouser and proceeded to tear up about 100 yards of   river, break my rod tip in two places at the landing point with violent   twisting, and then drove the hook into my thumb just for grins). The only rod I ever broke on a fish was on a Catfish too (no warranty though). They are POWERFUL fish. It was a Cat close to twenty pounds that took a tiny fly I use for Crappie. Willi

Response:

Brought it into my flyshop (Coleman’s), No charge, not even shipping.

Not bad for a bunch of them jamokes & scaramouches.   Meow. <vbg Joe F.

Response:

Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter.

Only once so far.  Cabelas Three Forks 3wt rod.  I busted the tip in the screen door.  They replaced it, didn’t even ask how it broke. I also have the Three Forks boot foot waders, in which I get wet (damp) from the knees down every time I use them.  Can never figure out if it’s from leaks or perspiration, so I just keep using them. Bill

Response:

I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now.

I don’t own one, but a buddy has broken three in the last 18 months, all of which were replaced without hesitation or question. It’s amazing, but I also know about five other guys who won’t touch any other brand and have not ever broken one. -G

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fell against a tree holding my Scott G906 last year.  The section just ahead of the grip was crushed.  Scott replaced the rod without question and I got GREAT service.  I’ll buy a Scott every chance I get.  Not only for their service, I prefer their action over most rods I run across. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine! I read with interest the posts about Sage’s Lifetime Warranty, since about  a month ago I made my first truly absurd flyfishing purchase, a Scott S3 5 weight 4 piece (I was able to get a $200.00 discount from the retail  price, but that alone says how expensive they can be). All my previous experience has been with a fly rod from Walmart  (literally), and an old St. Croix Legend 4 weight rod (what they now call an Imperial). With these rods you could lift a bowling ball without worrying about breaking the rod (well, not quite).  I used to wonder why other flyfishers broke rods so often, when I never really worried about it. One day with my Scott S3 showed me how fragile a fly rod can be.  I was playing a brown trout (best fish of the day) with too much of a jerking motion, and snap, the rod broke just above the first connection. I just finished composing my letter of woe to Scott, and after lunch the  rod will be mailed. I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now. Memphis Jim (I can’t turn on the TV without seeing Elvis). Broke a Scott STS 10 weight last year on a 12 lb. Blue Fish.  Sent the rod to Scott and got it back in three weeks!  I own several Scotts! Ssteve

Response:

I am interested in the experiences of other Scott rod owners with their warranty program, and whether Scott will be around 5 years from now.

I’ve never used Scott’s warranty, but I have fished mostly Scott rods for about 25 years (I have 9 Scott rods right now). Only one was ever broken, but that was prior to the warranty program’s existence and the replacement was paid for by the airline that broke it. — Charlie…

Response:

@posting.google.com: Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter. Tom G

I bought an Orvis Far and Fine.  There were some epoxy drips on the guides that bothered me.  I sent the rod in, complaining of a workmanship problem.   Got the rod back repaired in a timely fashion. Bashed a Lamson reel on the bed of Penn’s Creek–yes, I was holding it at the time. Something got misaligned, and the reel bound. Brought it into my flyshop (Coleman’s), fully expecting Carl to tell me he needed to send it back to Lamson, and that I’d have to pay for the repair.   Carl got the reel back.  They repaired the misalignment, and replaced the spool, but included the old scuffed, but fully functional spool.  No charge, not even shipping. — Scott Reverse first field of address to reply

Response:

I have found that my best fly rods (Orivs Trident) are far more delicate than any other fly or spinning rods I have ever owned.  I am thankful for the warranty and I am happy to pay an additional $100 just to get it – it has paid for itself three times over this year – and the year is not over yet!!!

If I had a car that spent so much time in the shop, I wouldn’t be calling it my "best car". Despite lifetime warrantees, a good rod shouldn’t break if someone breathes near it.  Seems like Orvis is having some QC issues. — Scott Reverse first field of address to reply

Response:

How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter.

Never broke a rod.  Busted the crank off an old reel once.  Put it back on with epoxy and it’s still holding ten or twelve years later.  Lost the tip section of what appears to be a 70s vintage Sears glass rod off the roof of a Geo Tracker somewhere between Milwaukee and Penn’s creek.  Still got the butt.  Haven’t investigated the warrantee or applicability of any insurance. Wolfgang

Response:

Although I dont have a Scott, I do have a few Orvis rods with the same type of warranty.  This has been a bad year for me.  In April I broke my six weight when I slipped down a snowy hill and drove the tiptop into the ground – Orvis fixed it no questions asked.  Same week I broke my 8 weight fighting a fairly good pike in a fast moving current. Sent it back in the same package as the six weight.  Just for fun, I managed to break the same six weight again on my very next trip to Minnesota (this on a 32" long channel cat that ate my clouser and proceeded to tear up about 100 yards of river, break my rod tip in two places at the landing point with violent twisting, and then drove the hook into my thumb just for grins).  Called Orvis, told them I was a dumb ass – they said that’s fine… send it back. I have found that my best fly rods (Orivs Trident) are far more delicate than any other fly or spinning rods I have ever owned.  I am thankful for the warranty and I am happy to pay an additional $100 just to get it – it has paid for itself three times over this year – and the year is not over yet!!! YMMV Joe C.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – their service, I prefer their action over most rods I run across. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine! If you stop running across them you wont need to use that guarantee so much Clark Amen, Clark.  If these guys werent’t so busy breaking and crushing their Scott rods, maybe James Barna wouldn’t need a $200 discount to buy a new rod… Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter. Tom G

Response:

Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter.

1 St. Croix LU rod blank, tip section – replaced free of charge (broke in use) 3 STH casette spools – replaced free of charge (cracked) I’ll add that these were replaced by or through my local fly shop.   I don’t even know what the warranty is/was. Joe F.

Response:

Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter.

I had a T&T VE 907S-3 break about 6" from the tip on the 2nd day of use in Denmark this year. They repaired it under warranty, albeit slowly. — Charlie…

Response:

their service, I prefer their action over most rods I run across. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

If you stop running across them you wont need to use that guarantee so much Clark

Response:

their service, I prefer their action over most rods I run across. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine! If you stop running across them you wont need to use that guarantee so much Clark

Amen, Clark.  If these guys werent’t so busy breaking and crushing their Scott rods, maybe James Barna wouldn’t need a $200 discount to buy a new rod… Perhaps a new poll is in order: How many ROFFians have ever had the opportunity to test the warranty on their gear?  Rod, reel, waders, whatever.  30 Day warranty, lifetime warranty, no matter. Tom G

Response:

Question:

Maybe so, but the skill is in knowing *how* to ask. Or *who*, I suppose. <g — Charlie… and *WHEN*!

"Welcome to the Little Wayno School of Scoring (We Never Close)" /daytripper ("Lesson 1: Ask Early And Often"

Response:

"The difference between a good nymph fisherman and a great nymph fisherman is often one split shot." Origin unknown

"There’s a fine line between flyfishing and standing in water looking stupid" The Same Guy

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe so, but the skill is in knowing *how* to ask. Or *who*, I suppose. <g — Charlie… and *WHEN*! "Welcome to the Little Wayno School of Scoring (We Never Close)" /daytripper ("Lesson 1: Ask Early And Often"

        and knowing how to play that martin d-28 while you lay out "hello cowgirl in the sand" don’t hurt all that bad, either…         yfitons         wayno

Response:

Maybe so, but the skill is in knowing *how* to ask. Or *who*, I suppose. <g — Charlie…

and *WHEN*! — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Response:

  I fine that flyfishermen are like golfers. Sooner or later, the guy next to   you will have a helpful suggestion. It may be about your cast, your flies,   your strategy…whatever. However, unlike golfers advice, this input is   usually welcomed and helpful. I’ve gotten alot of good advice over the years. Although this wouldn’t be the best advice I’ve gotten, it sticks in my head and serves as a reminder to be open minded and receptive to other peoples’ suggestions. I was fishing the stretch of my home river that I fish the most. I’ve been fishing it for over fifteen years and know it very well. I was fishing a riffle just upstream from a deep pool, when a young woman came up to me and informed me that there were some trout rising in the pool that she couldn’t reach because she only had on hipboots. It was the middle of a summer day and I was sure that the fish rising were the school of small Browns that are "always" rising in this pool. I thanked her and finished fishing the riffle I was working. I KNEW that they were just piddler fish rising and was going to continue working my way upstream but decided to give the rising fish a shot. To make a long story short, I ended up getting some very nice fish in the pool. Willi

Response:

Though referring to a different venue – "It is always easier to beg forgiveness than get permission. "  - Adm. Grace Hopper Bob Weinberger

MUCH different venu.  Not only are there laws, try begging forgiveness from two 6′3" older brothers with attitudes and firearms! — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Response:

"Wayne" wrote… "if you don’t ask for it, you never will get it" Maybe so, but the skill is in knowing *how* to ask.

Practice, practice, practice. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

at the tender age of 16 from a young lady "if you don’t ask for it, you never will get it" — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Though referring to a different venue – "It is always easier to beg forgiveness than get permission. "  - Adm. Grace Hopper Bob Weinberger

Response:

"Wayne" wrote… "if you don’t ask for it, you never will get it" Maybe so, but the skill is in knowing *how* to ask.

Or *who*, I suppose. <g — Charlie…

Response:

<SNIP . He suggested on my backcast to think "back and UP". <SNIP Actually, I said. "Think UP! -NOT- BACK!", ( That

Question:

dhdriftboats.com.    I built a 16" dory for the Grand Canyon

Response:

Anybody know where i can find a good Mckenzie drift boat plan,  i’ve search the web without much success. Thank you so much for your help! Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Anybody know where i can find a good Mckenzie drift boat plan,  i’ve search the web without much success. Thank you so much for your help!

Try searching here: http://www.boat-links.com/search-LL.html Steve

Response:

Try this web site for on line plans and instructions. http://www.montana-riverboats.com/boats/ Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

You need to try the fly fishing magazines and resources on the web.  Ray’s River Dories in Portland, OR, at least sells kits. Contact is Ray Heater at 503-244-3608 or e-mail at Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Question:

John I know people that have had the factory firsts, sure you want a second? ND#1   ( do you have a garden? ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear John L." We have factory second 2 piece fly rods for UNDER $300 John. They have some sort of defect in them such as glue lines or a gap in the wraps, a slightly off reel seat, etc. These fly rods will last anyone a life time and will cast as good as any $7,000 bamboo fly rod. Just sign up and let us know what you have in mind. Or, if you’re not particular on the length or fly line weight, let us know. — MrG/American Sportsman http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

Response:

I have some of the first bamboo flyrods that George built and they are catching plenty of fish still, and the cast beautifuly.. … I think you need to spend more time fishing and less time time in your garden. — Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – John I know people that have had the factory firsts, sure you want a second? ND#1   ( do you have a garden? ) Dear John L." We have factory second 2 piece fly rods for UNDER $300 John. They have some sort of defect in them such as glue lines or a gap in the wraps, a slightly off reel seat, etc. These fly rods will last anyone a life time and will cast as good as any $7,000 bamboo fly rod. Just sign up and let us know what you have in mind. Or, if you’re not particular on the length or fly line weight, let us know. — MrG/American Sportsman http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

Response:

I have some of the first bamboo flyrods that George built and they are catching plenty of fish still, and the cast beautifuly.. …

Lemme guess.  You got half a dozen or so #12s and a couplea #11s, right?

Response:

OH MY chris smith porter maine – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear John L." We have factory second 2 piece fly rods for UNDER $300 John. They have some sort of defect in them such as glue lines or a gap in the wraps, a slightly off reel seat, etc. These fly rods will last anyone a life time and will cast as good as any $7,000 bamboo fly rod. Just sign up and let us know what you have in mind. Or, if you’re not particular on the length or fly line weight, let us know.

Response:

Dear John L." We have factory second 2 piece fly rods for UNDER $300 John. They have some sort of defect in them such as glue lines or a gap in the wraps, a slightly off reel seat, etc. These fly rods will last anyone a life time and will cast as good as any $7,000 bamboo fly rod. Just sign up and let us know what you have in mind. Or, if you’re not particular on the length or fly line weight, let us know. — MrG/American Sportsman http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

Response:

Question:

I’ve heard from a man that did it that building a fly rod, with the right equipment, can be done reasonably well and with about eight hours of work.  I’d like to invest in the tools and then spend a little less money and a lot more care making rods for myself and my spouse. Any recommendations on inexpensive tools of the trade?  What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?  The best rod building guide? And what to look out for on your first go? Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?  I’ve invested in fly fishing and fly tying and so I know that every fish I catch is worth about twelve bucks.  I’d like to get them down to around four dollars/fish some day, so I’d just as soon skip the five hundred dollar graphite blanks. Thanks for any info, Sean

Response:

Rod Building Suppliers http://www.customtackle.com/                    Custom Tackle Supply http://www.mudhole.com                        Mudhole Custom Tackle http://www.shofftackle.com                Shoff Tackle http://www.angelfire.com/ks/bingham/     Bingham Enterprises http://www.anglersworkshop.com                Angler’s Workshop http://www.Cabelas.com                                Cabelas http://www.HuntersAngling.com                  Hunter’s Angling Supplies Expect to spend a minimum of $150 on equipment, closer to $250 for decent equipment. You’ll need a rod wrapper, finishing motor and stand, burnishing tool, exacto knife, epoxy, finish and syringes, mixing cups, thread St. Croix has an excellent reputation for quality inexpensive blanks. I’d have someone teach you the basics rather than learning solely from a book. Good luck, Ian McAllister Rodworks Seattle, WA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve heard from a man that did it that building a fly rod, with the right equipment, can be done reasonably well and with about eight hours of work.  I’d like to invest in the tools and then spend a little less money and a lot more care making rods for myself and my spouse. Any recommendations on inexpensive tools of the trade?  What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?  The best rod building guide? And what to look out for on your first go? Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?  I’ve invested in fly fishing and fly tying and so I know that every fish I catch is worth about twelve bucks.  I’d like to get them down to around four dollars/fish some day, so I’d just as soon skip the five hundred dollar graphite blanks. Thanks for any info, Sean

Response:

Have a look at the rod building course at http://www.flyanglersonline.com that should help you out. TL MC

Response:

While a rotisserie motor will serve the same purpose as a drying motor, it is the method of attachment between motor and blank that makes the real difference.  My first drying motor was a castoff from an old grill and could be made to work with a piece of all thread and masking tape to build up "bushings" to mount to the motor and the blank, but the problem is getting the blank and the motor shaft aligned so the rod rotates about it’s center rather than in an ellipse.  If you try to apply finish with the rod off center, you wind up chasing your wraps with the brush. It is next to impossible to get clean finish lines under these conditions. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive?

Response:

Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive? David Correct ! Works just as well too. TL MC

I’ve seen dishwasher motor rig that also works well for rods. What also works good is if you build a 6 or so inch diameter styrofoam  disc and attach it to the drive for drying epoxy flies. l—–l            [] l        l——- [] l—–l            [] motor  drive  styro the wheel slowly spins and allows the epoxy on the flies to dry in a symmetrically even fashion, which as we all know, will quadruple your chances of catching a fish. Walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

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Perfectly true, assymetrical epoxy will cause any self-respecting trout to go into a hissy fit. Unless you are tying flat -headed, flat-sided minnow imitations. In which case, the motor is superfluous. TL MC

dang Mike….i never thought of using pox flies for trout. when i was a resident down south we used to make pox flies fer saltwater fish. walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

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I use a really simple method. I took a dowel just a little larger than the sqaure hole on the BBQ motor and cut it square. I then took another dowel just smaller than the size of the Rod Handle.  I then drilled a hole in the middle of this and glued the smaller dowel into it. Once I had the "Chuck" made I simply took a bicycle tube and cut a section out of it. This can then be rolled right onto the rod handle and you have a good chuck that will work for just about any rod.  Plus there is no chance of marring the rod because the Rolled up tube is all that touches the rod. Gary

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While a rotisserie motor will serve the same purpose as a drying motor, it is the method of attachment between motor and blank that makes the real difference.  My first drying motor was a castoff from an old grill and could be made to work with a piece of all thread and masking tape to build up "bushings" to mount to the motor and the blank, but the problem is getting the blank and the motor shaft aligned so the rod rotates about it’s center rather than in an ellipse.  If you try to apply finish with the rod off center, you wind up chasing your wraps with the brush. It is next to impossible to get clean finish lines under these conditions.  Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive?

Response:

Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously

like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive? David

Correct ! Works just as well too. TL MC

Response:

<SNIPPED A cheap drill chuck, obtainable at any hardware store, correctly aligned to the shaft obviates this problem. The best I have seen to date was a special purpose chuck with nylon "fingers".  Otherwise plug and  tape the rod end to prevent damage in the chuck, and do not overtighten. TL MC

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Perfectly true, assymetrical epoxy will cause any self-respecting trout to go into a hissy fit. Unless you are tying flat -headed, flat-sided minnow imitations. In which case, the motor is superfluous. TL MC

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What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?

Make or buy a simple rod wrapping jig if you plan to build several. The best rod building guide?

Dale Clemen’s Advanced Custom Rod Building from Winchester Press is more than you will ever need to know.  You don’t have to agree with everything he writes but he does cover just about everything.  Luis Garcia’s Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod from Frank Amato Books has great closeup photos. Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?

If you are in no rush check out those web sites that others have posted in response to your question around November – February for closeouts, cosmetically defective rods, discontinued blanks, etc. I’ll make one more pitch for MCT epoxy guide wrap finish available at www.fishdoc.com.  You’ll definitely need a drying motor if you decide to use their finish.  I like MCT better than Flex Coat Lite. After applying finish to your wraps, leave several drops of it on a Post-It note or piece of aluminum foil.  Later when you’re trying to guess how much the finish has cured, you can touch one of these test drops rather than potentially spoil your unfinished epoxy coating. Mu

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All,     I must first say that have been reading ROFF rather religiously the past couple weeks and have found it to be extremely beneficial to my fly fishing. Many of my own queries have been addressed here.  Thank you.     Anyway, now to my question.  I have been fishing a particular stream with nice smallmouth in it for years now.  I have exclusively used ultra-light takle for this stream and have been extremely successful.  Now that I am more into flyfishing, I now want move on and try out some flys on this stream, but being as I have mainly flyfished for the rainbows of East Tennessee, I am somewhat at a loss for what types of flys to use.     I was wondering if anyone would have some suggestions for what are some good, general, "ol’ trusty" flys for catching smallmouth out of streams? Any bit of information will be greatly appreciated!                                                                 Thanks *BOB*

Hi Bob, I prefer to take them on top if I can. I would try something about one inch long like a hopper or dry muddler.  A friend that was working back East for a few years found out they liked the steelhead dry fly called the ‘Bomber’. It is spun and clipped grey deer hair body with a grizzly palmered hackle in about a size #6 or 8. I also used a light colored medium sized hard bodied popper on the lower umpqua River in Oregon. Early morning and late evening is best on top. Under water I would try a Whitlock Near-nuff Crayfish, weighted brown Wolly Bugger, Clouser Minnow or Big brown Rubberleg Nymph. Something weighted that is big, buggy and black or brown? I have also heard that they can be caught on most trout patterns at times.

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   I must first say that have been reading ROFF rather religiously the past couple weeks and have found it to be extremely beneficial to my fly fishing.

LOL! We must be slipping! [snipped]    I was wondering if anyone would have some suggestions for what are some good, general, "ol’ trusty" flys for catching smallmouth out of streams? Any bit of information will be greatly appreciated!

My experience with stream smallies (eg: Housatonic, Contoocook) has been that whatever I’m using for trout will generally work with the small mouths (in fact when I’m aiming for the trout the smallies seem to get to my fly first). If I’m aiming to hook up with small mouths, big flies (especially soggy ones) seem to work best. Woolly Buggers/Bombers, Deceivers, Matukas, Muddlers (my favorite), Wool-head Sculpins, etc. For dry flies, terrestrials (hoppers, beetles, flying ants, etc) have worked for me, along with the more "trouty" patterns. hth! /daytripper

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    Anyway, now to my question.  I have been fishing a particular stream with nice smallmouth in it for years now.  I have exclusively used ultra-light takle for this stream and have been extremely successful.

What did you use that was so sucessful?  Try imitating it.  Crayfish? Try a crayfish pattern (complicated to tie) or just a weighted woolybugger fished slowly in  crayfish colors.  Appropriately colored (weighted if necessary) wooly buggers can also imitate hellgramites or leeches. Floating Rapalas? A streamer in the colors of your most sucessful plugs might do the trick- a generic baitfish imitation will have a light underside and dark back, maybe some flashabou or a tinsel wrapped hooked or mylar body.  I find that smallmouths will eagerly strike dries and nymphs if drifting nearby, but are more likely to chase larger flies over some distance.  A floating muddler minnow, slightly waking the surface at the end of the downstream swing sometimes works really well.  In general I’ve had the best experiences with down-n-across presentations.  Since you have been an ultralight fisherman, you should be familiar with a "color" available in soft plastics called "pumpkinseed".  Some folks really like chartreuse but I typically stick to earth tones.  Was that too vague?  My best wooly bugger this year: #8 2x streamer hook.  Light olive, medium sized chenille body.  Very light olive (almost appears yellow in the water) marabou tail with (soft) red palmered hackle. Mu Young Lee             Ann Arbor, MI   USA

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Try size 8-4 clousers in brown orange and Chartreuse and white. Also, Woolly Buggers in brown, black, and olive in sizes 10-6 are good. And you can’t go wrong with deer hair bugs DAYGLOW York Team DBE

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Hello All,     I must first say that have been reading ROFF rather religiously the past couple weeks and have found it to be extremely beneficial to my fly fishing. Many of my own queries have been addressed here.  Thank you.     Anyway, now to my question.  I have been fishing a particular stream with nice smallmouth in it for years now.  I have exclusively used ultra-light takle for this stream and have been extremely successful.  Now that I am more into flyfishing, I now want move on and try out some flys on this stream, but being as I have mainly flyfished for the rainbows of East Tennessee, I am somewhat at a loss for what types of flys to use.     I was wondering if anyone would have some suggestions for what are some good, general, "ol’ trusty" flys for catching smallmouth out of streams? Any bit of information will be greatly appreciated!                                                                 Thanks *BOB*

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I’ve had luck with such flies as Bitch Creek, Wooly Buggers, and streamers. I kinda concoct my own fly that is basically a bunch of dubbing wrapped aound the shank of the hook with a maribou tail, usually in black, size 4-6. You can weight them for deeper waters if needed. Minnow patterns usually work good, I’ll make that same fly and add some flashabou to it as an attractor. Hope that helps. Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All,     I must first say that have been reading ROFF rather religiously the past couple weeks and have found it to be extremely beneficial to my fly fishing. Many of my own queries have been addressed here.  Thank you.     Anyway, now to my question.  I have been fishing a particular stream with nice smallmouth in it for years now.  I have exclusively used ultra-light takle for this stream and have been extremely successful.  Now that I am more into flyfishing, I now want move on and try out some flys on this stream, but being as I have mainly flyfished for the rainbows of East Tennessee, I am somewhat at a loss for what types of flys to use.     I was wondering if anyone would have some suggestions for what are some good, general, "ol’ trusty" flys for catching smallmouth out of streams? Any bit of information will be greatly appreciated!                                                                 Thanks *BOB*

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download headers until you get to the thread posted by Todd Arnold on July 15….folks responded pretty goo to that one and it contains a variety of tips… and then look for a book titled, "Smallmouth strategies for the

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Question:

A great knot.  I use it for building leaders and for joining tippets.  Easy to tie, and very strong.  I loop it three times on both pieces. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me? Tinca

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Not sure I recall uni-knots exactly, but I use what I was taught to call "double-grinners" (british term) which may be the same thing. Bulkier than blood-knot but against steelhead they help me.   Easy to tie – after the 600-th time.           -rork.

: A great knot.  I use it for building leaders and for joining tippets.  Easy : to tie, and very strong.  I loop it three times on both pieces. : One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the : double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides : me? : Tinca

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Not sure I recall uni-knots exactly, but I use what I was taught to call "double-grinners" (british term) which may be the same thing. Bulkier than blood-knot but against steelhead they help me.   Easy to tie – after the 600-th time.

How bout some instructions for the colonists Lou B

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Well give the bleeding unit-knot instructions first  :) Really, I was gonna describe it but it is hard to describe knots for me: Double Grinner:     wrap the tag end of strand a around b, about 3-5 times (not so important, just gets some twist set-up).  Bring the tag end back to the start of the wraps – this makes a loop which you now put the tag end through 3-5 times (smaller lines=more times).  You are making the second set of wraps in the same direction and handedness as the first set.    That makes one half of the knot, do the same for the other half as for any knot in the fisherman’s/blood-knot family.  Pull the two ends tight againt each other.  I partially tighted each side first – they "turn inside out" like lotsa other monofilament knots.  I think it’s mentioned in "The trout and the fly".  - also a colonist. Soon out in paper-back:     my decription of the modified Krey’s-improved bimini-twist……

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One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

This is the knot I always use. I also use the Uni(Duncan Loop) for my terminal connection. I have rarely had any problems with breakage at the terminal connection and the only time I have had a break at the tippet/leader was in breaking off a snag. I can not imagine any weakening with the Uni-knot joining the two pieces of line. With the wraps snugging up it seems to be very secure. Also, it is easy! regards, jw        J. Webb (Preferred)    |    Atlanta Mac User Group         jwebb *AT* netdepot *DOT* com |joe_webb *AT* atlmug *DOT* org

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nothing to beat the uni knot for any thing – greta knot for night fishingas you can tie it with your eyes closed. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

– Tinca

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I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me? I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

Yeah, I use the uni-knot all the time Bryce

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Mark asks: Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

Mark, I feel there is another issue maybe, buried in here….. that is the *quality* of how one ties a knot….  A poorly tied knot is much weaker than it should be.   I feel several of the knots mentioned ought to get you out of your problem, yet from the post …. seems that doesn’t occur….. makes me think there is a "hidden variable"…. that is the quality of the knot itself and not the design of the knot…..   For "barrel" or blood knots a couple of things… never tie with more than one or 2 thousands difference in the diameters of the leader end and the tippet… otherwise use the loop or the surgeon’s knot…. make the starter set of windings of the blood knot even and unkinked with the two ends pointing in opposite directions.   Wet the total bundle (good ole spit)  and smoothly but firmly pull them taut.   clip excess ends. In teaching this knot to others I have found many who try to pull the knot taut without wetting it or with the preloops not neat and unkinked….   Pratice at home with light tippet and test with a scale until you achieve about 90 % consistently for several knots… Good luck, Alan Alan E. Hoover       to quote one of my favorite authors: "Fly fishing is such great fun, it really ought to be done in bed"  John Voelker, aka Robert Traver

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mark asks: Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

So much good information has come from this post that I hate to even introduce this, but does anyone else other than me use a little dab of Zap-A-Gap on the knots just to make sure? It’s a cyanoacrylate glue much like crazy glue and only takes a few seconds to dry. Maybe it’s a crude remedy but I got tired of losing the fly, tippet, and even more so the fish. — Frank Tosczak

Response:

  There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots   (e.g. Trilene knot).     I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but   it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon. the best you can get out of a blood knot (6 or more barrels) is around 75%.  Surgeon’s is better.  The trilene and I believe the double turle are supposed to be full strength.

FWIW I checked my copy of Lefty kreh/ Mark Sosin’s Pratical Knots II ; the improved clinch was reported to test out at no better than 95%, the Trilene was listed as ’stronger’ than an improved clinch. A Palomar knot was said to be near 100%. The double surgeon loop or it’s half brother the double surgeon were both reported to provide near 100%. The only full 100% knots listed were the doubled loops such as the Bimini twist and the snelled hooks beloved of bait fishers. Ralph H

Response:

  FWIW I checked my copy of Lefty kreh/ Mark Sosin’s Pratical Knots II ;   the improved clinch was reported to test out at no better than 95%, the   Trilene was listed as ’stronger’ than an improved clinch. A Palomar knot was   said to be near 100%. The double surgeon loop or it’s half brother the double   surgeon were both reported to provide near 100%.

Ok, so the trilene knot is 95% strength according to your source. My source says full-strength.  There is no difference between these claims.  Experimental uncertainty would easily cover such a trivial difference. As for the double surgeon’s knot, I really don’t think it is even close to 100%.  If it were, is that to say that the "triple surgeon’s" knot is redundant?  I can easily be wrong.  But the flyfisherman article I recall claimed that the best line-to-line knots are still <90% – including the double surgeons etc.  Again, I could easily be wrong.  My own experience with all these line-to-line knots confirms that they are weaker than terminal knots.  But who am I to argue with Lefty kreh eh? Anyway, I don’t get too worried about all this.  I use =8lb test and the only time I ever break my line is when I screw up and do something dumbassed on a fish or when I get snagged.  I don’t think that my 14′ 9wt rod is even capable of breaking 8lb test line. By the way, for anyone interested, the virtual flyshop (www.flyshop.com I think) has a nice set of drawings on how to tie any of the knots mentioned in this discussion. cheers,         -tgades (a good-old 6-barrel bloodknot aficionado) — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied   properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the   final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the   tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot.   Ralph H There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that can do 100%. cheers,        -tgades

I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon. By the way welcome back, how was your trip to the balmy south. Ralph H

Response:

I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot?

The basic problem is that the knot the knot I’ve been using to attach the fly (a filson knot) is much stronger than any barrel or double surgeons I’ve been able to tie.  Previously I always used a clinch knot for the fly, but I found a stronger knot for the terminal end, so I was hoping to find one for the tippet/leader junction.    (I also dislike tying the barrell knot especially in the late evening when fish are rising all around and its hard to see) I could solve my problem by switching back to a weaker knot to attach the fly.  From the sound of some of the other posters that sounds like the way to go, but I was hoping that someone would have a better solution. Thanks again, Mark Watson

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot? Barry Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution. Thanks, Mark Watson

I use a loop to loop connection, with a loop knot the name of which I can’t recall, but it’s in lefty kreh and mark sosin’s knot book.  I use a clinch knot for the fly connection, and that almost always breaks first.  Even if it doesn’t, the knot that breaks is the tippet side of the loop to loop, so I just make a new tippet, and attach it, with no overall leader length loss.  Works great, you should try it. — Andrew Brunette

Response:

   There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots    (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of    tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that    can do 100%.        cheers,                -tgades       I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but   it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon.

the best you can get out of a blood knot (6 or more barrels) is around 75%.  Surgeon’s is better.  The trilene and I believe the double turle are supposed to be full strength.   By the way welcome back, how was your trip to the balmy south.

The Antarctic field season (nov,dec,jan) was very good and productive, though the weather was poor this year and we spent a total of 30+days waiting for flights in the field. The fishing in NZ (24Jan-5Mar) was excellent once again.  After 4 years in a row fishing for a month or more in NZ, it seems more and more fun.  I’ll likely be heading back once again next year.  I’ll let you know when I scan in a few pics from the 98 NZ season.  I caught some tremendous browns this year.  I still have a few pictures from last year:         http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/NZ/NZ_97.html Since I’ve been home I’ve hooked 2 steelhead, landed 1.  I scanned a picture of this beautiful native hen.  It is at the top of my fish page:         http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html cheers,         -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

Response:

  the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied   properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the   final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the   tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot.   Ralph H

There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that can do 100%. cheers,         -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

Response:

Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  

the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot. Ralph H

Response:

Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

Hi Mark. Depending on how much time I have, I’ll use the Blood Knot or the Double Surgeon’s Knot. The Blood Knot takes longer to tie, but is stronger, so I use it when I’m rigging before I go to the river. If I’m on the stream and I get a wind knot that I can’t untie very close to the tippet/leader knot, they I’ll cut off my existing tippet and use a Double Surgeon’s Knot to put a new one on. That’s just what I use. Bryce    

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I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot? Barry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution. Thanks, Mark Watson

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Question:

M. Gades) writes: I’ve been kicking this idea around for a while and I think it could

be SOME TEXT DELETED So, where can we find your www home page? -tgades

RESPONSE: I understand your doubts howerer, I do not have a home page.  While I admit that I am a business, I am also a fisherman.  My educational background is in communication and I’d like to do some things for the NET. When the time comes for me to create a page, my page would still have to bear up to the scrutiny of the members of the Newsgroups.  I intend to make sure that voting is carried out by a third party like other CFV’s in the groups.  This is not motivated by greed!!!  

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I’ve been kicking this idea around for a while and I think it could be interesting.  What I propose is a series of awards voted on by the fishing newsgroup community to both recognize and influence the WWW and FTP developers to create more and better information for us – The Fishermen.

Good idea – go for it! You talk as if there is some seperate group of people we are dependent on to create WWW sites, but all the fishing sites I know of are fisherpersons’s personal work. That is the beauty (and nuisance) of WWW – it doesn’t take a multimillion$ corporation to create and broadcast work. Because what you’re seeing doesn’t go through any committee approval process, there’s quite a bit of variance in peoples’ works.  If you have funding to give some awards you can perhaps inspire people to create works more to your liking – tell us what you’d like to give us a little time before the voting starts. The Virtual Fly Shop that Mike Tucker has put together has a good directory to other fishing sites. It lists all the sites that Mike has read about here and on the listserver.  I don’t have the URL handy but it is posted here on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly often. If you have an idea, put a few hours into learning HTML and get started. I was able to learn enough and make my site in a weekend with the NCSA Simple HTML editor for Hypercard/Mac. If you don’t use Macintosh your timing couldn’t be better; I hear that windows PCs can now do graphics and there are free HTML editors available for them too.  ;) If you need someone to host it and cannot find an affordable site, let me know and I can put you in contact.   Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML Also while your there, check out the ProArts Eastbay Open Studios web site: http://www.lanminds.com/local/proarts.html (I didn’t make this but it was my idea and I’m damn proud of it)

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AMI News has created a centralized source of outdoor information that includes links to various fishing pages. As a news organization we are trying to find fishing conditions from around the world along with other interesting fishing information that appeals to a wide range of readers.   We invite you to submit any and all web sites for consideration. There is NO CHARGE to link. We also invite any fishing site to link with the AMI Rec Network. Take a look: http.//www.aminews.com/ami Thanks, Rob Brown Webmaster – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Take a look: http.//www.aminews.com/ami

My netscape reports no DNS entry to be found for www.aminews.com.    

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I’d like to submit my homepage.  It is relatively new, but I will be doing lots of work on it over the next few weeks.  I focus on flyfishing and I live and fish mostly in Oregon, but fish often in Idaho, and take trips to Washington, California, Montana, just got back from the Green River in Utah, and a Red fish excursion to New Orleans.   http://www.teleport.com/~anthonyn thanks, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – AMI News has created a centralized source of outdoor information that includes links to various fishing pages. As a news organization we are trying to find fishing conditions from around the world along with other interesting fishing information that appeals to a wide range of readers.   We invite you to submit any and all web sites for consideration. There is NO CHARGE to link. We also invite any fishing site to link with the AMI Rec Network. Take a look: http.//www.aminews.com/ami Thanks, Rob Brown Webmaster

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I’ve been kicking this idea around for a while and I think it could be interesting.  What I propose is a series of awards voted on by the fishing newsgroup community to both recognize and influence the WWW and FTP developers to create more and better information for us – The Fishermen. It seems like everyday, there is a posting on where to find good WWW information.  This process will serve to organize and rate the various offerings out there and help make the info available to all.  Later, we could possibly create a home page as an index to the best stuff out there. Please confine comment to the newsgroups as I think I would get swamped with E-Mail at this point.  I will be sharing more details of my Idea in a few days but I just want to get discussion going.

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I’ve been kicking this idea around for a while and I think it could be interesting.  What I propose is a series of awards voted on by the fishing newsgroup community to both recognize and influence the WWW and FTP developers to create more and better information for us – The Fishermen. SOME TEXT DELETED

So, where can we find your www home page? -tgades

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Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. RON

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: Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? : Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all : the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would : appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. : RON A good book for beginners is Dick Pobst’s guide to insects. It is an Orvis streamside guide.

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PLEASE DO NOT PUMP THE STOMACHS OF THE FISH…  This causes them to adjust their eating habits for several days and can harm the fish permanately.

Yep, leads ‘em down the wayward path to anorexia/bolemia. If you think whirling disease is a problem, let me tell you, once the fish get into a binge and purge cycle, you’ve got a bigger problem.  How you gonna provide psychotherapy to all them fish?  The costs would be astronomical! — -Wayne Trzyna

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Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. RON

 There are a couple of good books out on the market to match the  Hatch with.  Almost any major bookstore can get a copy of the  "Hatch Bible" called MATCHING THE HATCH.  It is a good book but the best  way to match the hatch is by seining the water.  PLEASE DO NOT PUMP THE  STOMACHS OF THE FISH…  This causes them to adjust their eating habits  for several days and can harm the fish permanately.  Since there are so many new anglers out there we need to preserve what we got.

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Question:

Recently returned from a guided tour with Dennis of Trout Creek Flies. Had a great time. Caught several 20 inchers and a total of 50+fish. I highly recommend this guide as he knows all the hot spots in the river. Lunch was great too!! larry and darlene

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Recently returned from a guided tour with Dennis of Trout Creek Flies. Had a great time. Caught several 20 inchers and a total of 50+fish. I highly recommend this guide as he knows all the hot spots in the river. Lunch was great too!! larry and darlene How much does Dennis charge for a guide trip? Mark    

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Path: news.teleport.com!psgrain!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!library.erc.clarkson.ed u!ub!csn!news.usafa.af.mil!dfyc16.usafa.af.mil!GLIVINSKIDK%DFYC Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: United States Air Force Academy Lines: 11 Distribution: USA NNTP-Posting-Host: dfyc16.usafa.af.mil Summary: big fish Keywords: trout,fly fishing Recently returned from a guided tour with Dennis of Trout Creek Flies. Had a great time. Caught several 20 inchers and a total of 50+fish. I highly recommend this guide as he knows all the hot spots in the river. Lunch was great too!! larry and darlene How much does Dennis charge for a guide trip? Mark    

I was at the Green for few days around March 20.  I arranged a trip through Dennis (Trout Creek Flies).  It cost $240, but that was the low season price – $275 is the standard price (April 1 – ?).  I stayed at the Flaming Gorge Lodge (arrnged by Denni) and noticed that they had wading guides available as well, and if you are looking to save $, it’s cheaper and the wading was great at that time (very low water).  The fishing was great too… Anthony

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