Question:

I just had an incredible bit of luck run into me. Yesterday one of my coworkers came into my office and said that he noticed from my office decorations that I enjoyed fly fishing. He had run across one of those fly fishing coffee table books for $1.00 in the local bargain bin and bought it for me. As I thanked him, one bit of conversation led to another and he mentioned he had an old fly rod in his garage collecting dust and asked if I’d like it. It turns out that this guy used to camp and hunt in Keene, NH about 15-20 years ago. One day while he was there, his hunting partner asked if he would mind helping the landowner pack a few things into a moving truck. Long story short, they ended up at Lee Wulff’s place in Surry. He said that Mr. Wulff was spending more time reminiscing about each thing he packed than actually packing the U-Haul for his move to New York on the Beaverkill. At the end of the day, Mr. Wulff gave my coworker his Cortland Model 502-A, 2-piece 7′6" 7WT rod, of which I am now the proud owner. Judging from the wear on the tip-top, this rod was used frequently. Although the rod itself may not be of much value (and of this I’m not sure – I can’t find any info on it), the fact that Mr. Wulff once fished with it makes it something I will cherish. When told of his death, Charles Kurault said, "Lee Wulff was to fly fishing what Einstein was to physics." As someone recently said here, life is good. — TL, Tim

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just had an incredible bit of luck run into me. Yesterday one of my coworkers came into my office and said that he noticed from my office decorations that I enjoyed fly fishing. He had run across one of those fly fishing coffee table books for $1.00 in the local bargain bin and bought it for me. As I thanked him, one bit of conversation led to another and he mentioned he had an old fly rod in his garage collecting dust and asked if I’d like it. It turns out that this guy used to camp and hunt in Keene, NH about 15-20 years ago. One day while he was there, his hunting partner asked if he would mind helping the landowner pack a few things into a moving truck. Long story short, they ended up at Lee Wulff’s place in Surry. He said that Mr. Wulff was spending more time reminiscing about each thing he packed than actually packing the U-Haul for his move to New York on the Beaverkill. At the end of the day, Mr. Wulff gave my coworker his Cortland Model 502-A, 2-piece 7′6" 7WT rod, of which I am now the proud owner. Judging from the wear on the tip-top, this rod was used frequently. Although the rod itself may not be of much value (and of this I’m not sure – I can’t find any info on it), the fact that Mr. Wulff once fished with it makes it something I will cherish. When told of his death, Charles Kurault said, "Lee Wulff was to fly fishing what Einstein was to physics." As someone recently said here, life is good. — TL, Tim

That is awesome Tim. Congrats Russell -Couldn’t happen to a nicer guy.

Response:

Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

Already working on it. I’ve written to Joan Wulff to see if she can verify the circumstance. Also, my coworker was keeping a diary during the time this happened, so he thinks he can give me some more exact timeframe. Even though it’s designated as a 7WT, the rod feels like it would handle a WF5F line pretty well, which is usually what I use. Has anyone out there fished with this kind of mismatch before? Any tips? — TL, Tim (excited like a kid in a candy store)

Response:

Already working on it. I’ve written to Joan Wulff to see if she can verify the circumstance.

OTOH, she might want her rod back.  :-) Joe F.

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All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie.

Response:

Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

Absolutely.  In fact, you might even wish to contact Joan Wulff and see about a letter.  While it may seem unimportant now, when and if it becomes important, it will be more difficult, if not impossible, to gather the needed information.  Also, make sure that your documentation/research is clearly spelled out and your family knows about it (or at least where to find your documentation).  Trust me on this – I speak from personal experience. You might also wish to check with the Catskill FFing Center: Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum 1031 Old Route 17, Livingston Manor, New York 12758 http://www.cffcm.org/cmc.html  or the Anglers’ Club of New York: The Anglers’ Club of New York 101 Broad St. New York, NY 10004 Voice: (212) 425-7333 Fax: (212) 809-9089 IIRC, they were involved in auction of Wulff items a couple of years ago, and might be able to give you a rough idea of value for insurance, etc.   Congrats on the "find." TC, R

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value. Absolutely.  In fact, you might even wish to contact Joan Wulff and see about a letter.  While it may seem unimportant now, when and if it becomes important, it will be more difficult, if not impossible, to gather the needed information.  Also, make sure that your documentation/research is clearly spelled out and your family knows about it (or at least where to find your documentation).  Trust me on this – I speak from personal experience. You might also wish to check with the Catskill FFing Center: Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum 1031 Old Route 17, Livingston Manor, New York 12758 http://www.cffcm.org/cmc.html  or the Anglers’ Club of New York: The Anglers’ Club of New York 101 Broad St. New York, NY 10004 Voice: (212) 425-7333 Fax: (212) 809-9089 IIRC, they were involved in auction of Wulff items a couple of years ago, and might be able to give you a rough idea of value for insurance, etc.

Thanks for the info — I’ve written both and will let you know the results. — TL, Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Congrats on the "find." TC, R

Response:

All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River

brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g — TL, Tim

Response:

"Stan Gula" All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g

While you wimps were enjoying your cold drinks, I actually fished. Caught 30" of brookie more or less equally divided into five fish. Comgrats on the rod, Tim…gonna bring it next week? BTW, this good fortune also enhanced your Kreh number, (Lee must have known Lefty, right?), not to mention what it did to your Wullf number. <G George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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"Stan Gula" All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g While you wimps were enjoying your cold drinks, I actually fished. Caught 30" of brookie more or less equally divided into five fish.

This takes counting to a whole new level. Comgrats on the rod, Tim…gonna bring it next week?

Yes. If you’re really nice to me I’ll let you hold it . . . just for a moment. BTW, this good fortune also enhanced your Kreh number, (Lee must have known Lefty, right?), not to mention what it did to your Wullf number. <G

Hey, anything that increases either of those is good. I’m almost at "1" now! — TL, Tim

Response:

Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

it’s a unique piece of luck and to be treasured. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Question:

Petah: and wait till you see my version of the GRW

Carrie Stevens beatcha to it.  She calls it the Green Ghost.  <g Dave

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Petah: and wait till you see my version of the GRW Carrie Stevens beatcha to it.  She calls it the Green Ghost.  <g Dave

ya, OK, no problem being one-upped by Carrie – but that pirate guy – sheesh. and this time, don’t buy out Lakewood’s entire supply of GGs.  Leave some for the guy who knows how to use it  <BSEG Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Petah: and wait till you see my version of the GRW Carrie Stevens beatcha to it.  She calls it the Green Ghost.  <g ya, OK, no problem being one-upped by Carrie – but that pirate guy – sheesh. and this time, don’t buy out Lakewood’s entire supply of GGs.  Leave some for the guy who knows how to use it  <BSEG

Thanks for thinking of me, Peter, but I tie my own. /daytripper (And leave HWMNBN out of this!

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That’s my home water you’re talking about, Dave. Great to hear you had some good fishing. The Middle Fork from Indian Creek was the pits three or four weeks ago (for the reasons you mentioned), but the tributary fishing was superb. We missed you at the Yellowstone Clave. Despite (or maybe because of) various intolerable provocations and slights, I can’t recall of week when I had more fun. (Or caught a bigger fish Next time. San Juan in January? Meet you at the Kiddie Hole? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

[good time snipped] Dave LaCourse

Sounds like a great time – see you in a few weeks.  BTW, the granddaughter will out fish you too.  :) and wait till you see my version of the GRW. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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<snipped awesome TR Next year Joanne and I will do Montana, perhaps with our 12 year old grand-daughter.  If we arrive on your doorstep with our 32 foot land yacht, Warren, I expect a cold beer, a big smile, and directions to the nearest trout waters.

I’ll leave a light on a cold one in the fridge for you.  I’ll make sure to leave a trout or two for you too.  I took lessons from Troutmaster Willi during the Clave so don’t expect many fish. . . . — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

Response:

I’ll leave a light on a cold one in the fridge for you.

                /                and still need more sleep. . . . . . — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

Response:

I’ll leave a light on a cold one in the fridge for you.                 /                and still need more sleep. . . . . .

Now, Warren, the biggest mistake people make when drinking premium beers (not Bud) is to drink them when they’re too cold. A light on a cold one might be just the thing. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Now, Warren, the biggest mistake people make when drinking premium beers (not Bud) is to drink them when they’re too cold. A light on a cold one might be just the thing.

Damn mother freakin’ confuser!  It’s out to get me, I swear! — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

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rw writes: Next time. San Juan in January? Meet you at the Kiddie Hole?

I’m planning on the SJ.  Haven’t told the Chief of Naval Ops yet, but I’m going.  And, you can believe I will not even wade through the Kiddie Hole.  Why anyone would want to catch those pathetic fish is beyond me.  I had planned on the Jellystone Clave, but made the Idaho reservations early.  I would have been out a lot of money if I didn’t follow through. Dave

Response:

In the past I have taken a grandson to Labrador for big brookies and landlocked salmon.  This year we went to Idaho for cutthroats.  I made the reservations before the Western Clave’s dates were set, so I missed it – we were in Idaho the same week. We arrived late Sunday afternoon aboard the owner’s Cesna 206.  Six cylinders, turbo-charged, putting out 310 hp.  Quite the aircraft. Wapiti Meadows Ranch in on Johnson Creek, south of Yellow Pine.  I was surprised to see chinook salmon in the creek.  Lots of them, and  all had been tagged by biologists.  They traveled about 900 miles up-stream, a 3-4 month trip, from the ocean to spawn and then die.  I was told that their numbers have increased over the past few years, so there is hope for the Chinook (King) salmon in this watershed. We fished Johnson Creek (skinny water this time of the year), the East Fork of the South Fork above Johnson Creek, and the East of the South below the confluence of Johnson.  Even though the water was skinny compared to what we are accustomed to, we caught many cutts on dries and nymphs.  When we first fished the East of the South, Brian was into his fifth rainbow or cutt before I had the water figured out.  He was up-stream of me fishing with the guide.  I was amazed to see him using an enormous Royal Wulff – must have been at least a size 10.   Small nymphs worked, but it seemed that the bigger ones worked better.  I caught most of my fish on a large yellow stone fly, but the dreaded Green Rock Worm also took a few, including the biggest of the trip – a cutt about 17 inches.   We were scheduled to fly into the Middle Branch of the Salmon at Indian Creek on Wednesday.  However, a very bad storm hit the area Monday night, dumping several inches of rain on the area. Four miles above Indian Creek is Pistol Creek.  There has been a fire on Pistol Creek for several weeks, so when the rains came they washed the ash into the creek and it was then dumped into the Middle Fork.  The water on Tuesday and Wednesday was a dirty gray.  We flew into the Middle Fork on Thursday after hearing that it was fishable. We walked up-stream about 2 miles to a large pool only to find it un-fishable.  The water was so cloudy that visibility was about two feet.  Downstream of Indian Creek the water was much better and we immediately go into some nice cutts.  My first cutt on this water had such vivid red colors that I thought it was a Rainbow. It was about 14 inches and absolutely beautiful.  The cutts on the other waters we fished had a green back and not much red (except for the "cut throat"), but this fish was brilliant.   After many fish caught and released, we settled into camp and made a "whiteman’s" campfire.  Our guide Andy grilled some steaks and baked some potatoes while I got into the white wine.  I took several pictures of my 16 year old grandson holding a beer can.  His mother has yet to see the pictures! <g.    We stayed up until about 11 p.m. watching the fire and observing the stars.  Life is good

Question:

A merry (year end festible of choice) to all of you. May the beer god smile apon you and your stockings be filled with bamboo rods, cool vests, waders, zingers and other tools of joy! Even you daytripper, get a bamboo ok? Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more

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A merry (year end festible of choice) to all of you. May the beer god smile apon you and your stockings be filled with bamboo rods, cool vests, waders, zingers and other tools of joy! Even you daytripper, get a bamboo ok? Flyfish

Bah! Humbug! If God had meant us to fish with cane, He’d have them grow with the guides and a UPS shipping label already attached… /daytripper (who actually owns four cane rods but prefers plastic)

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Question:

I think that I’ve got it narrowed down to a couple of different models: Wilderness Systems The Ride Perception Swing I plan on using it in the bays around Long Island, NY I do not plan on too much use in the surf, but it may happen. I’m looking for a good Kayak…I am trying to keep down the length to under 14 feet or so. I notice that The Ride has a factory installed Rudder as an option. Would this be a good idea for my kind of use? Is the Swing more versatile than the Ride? How about stability??? Help a newbie out please!! -Tim Before you buy.

Response:

I think that I’ve got it narrowed down to a couple of different models: Wilderness Systems The Ride Perception Swing

I have 2 Ride’s that I use in flat water rivers and inshore in saltwater (I live in Atlanta). I don’t have rudders and haven’t had problems with tracking, but I use mine primarily to fly fish from and not for any kind of touring. — Charlie…

Response:

I grew up on Peconic and Shinnecock bays and wish I could paddle there during these interminable hot days down south. If I were you I would go for the Freedom by WS over the Ride. Both have a rudder option but the Freedom without rudder is as stable as any sot I have ever been in. It seems to sit lower in the water which means it gets less side push from winds, it is faster than Ride and the cost is comparable (Ride w rudder, Freedom w/o) The rudder is not to steer but to keep you on a more or less straight line when winds push against you. I doubt you will need a rudder on the Freedom, learn to control the boat by edging and adjusting your paddle stroke. I would invest the extra money in getting the optional back rest, it will be worth it to you in comfort. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think that I’ve got it narrowed down to a couple of different models: Wilderness Systems The Ride Perception Swing I plan on using it in the bays around Long Island, NY I do not plan on too much use in the surf, but it may happen. I’m looking for a good Kayak…I am trying to keep down the length to under 14 feet or so. I notice that The Ride has a factory installed Rudder as an option. Would this be a good idea for my kind of use? Is the Swing more versatile than the Ride? How about stability??? Help a newbie out please!! -Tim Before you buy.

Response:

I was looking at the Freedom as well, but I elimintaed it due to it’s size….I thought it to be  too long.  I’ll take a closer look.  Anyone with any other thoughts??? Thanks, Tim I – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I grew up on Peconic and Shinnecock bays and wish I could paddle there during these interminable hot days down south. If I were you I would go for the Freedom by WS over the Ride. Both have a rudder option but the Freedom without rudder is as stable as any sot I have ever been in. It seems to sit lower in the water which means it gets less side push from winds, it is faster than Ride and the cost is comparable (Ride w rudder, Freedom w/o) The rudder is not to steer but to keep you on a more or less straight line when winds push against you. I doubt you will need a rudder on the Freedom, learn to control the boat by edging and adjusting your paddle stroke. I would invest the extra money in getting the optional back rest, it will be worth it to you in comfort. I think that I’ve got it narrowed down to a couple of different models: Wilderness Systems The Ride Perception Swing I plan on using it in the bays around Long Island, NY I do not plan on too much use in the surf, but it may happen. I’m looking for a good Kayak…I am trying to keep down the length to under 14 feet or so. I notice that The Ride has a factory installed Rudder as an option. Would this be a good idea for my kind of use? Is the Swing more versatile than the Ride? How about stability??? Help a newbie out please!! -Tim Before you buy.

Before you buy.

Response:

Hi Tim, I’m relatively new to sea kayaking and I recently bought a used Scupper Pro (sot) that’s 14′9". I got it because it was in my price range and offered good sized hatches for gear and I found it easy to paddle. (One week this summer I paddled around Shelter Island, Peconic Bay and such.) I’m curious why you didn’t want something longer than 14 feet. In my limited experience, length of the kayak on the water hasn’t been an issue – what do I not know? I am thinking of investigating the rudder option for the Scupper – tracking in wind on the big bays around here (southern New Jersey) would be easier! Karenne

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Question:

I’ll be in Richand-Pasco, WA next week and would like to get some time on the river in between job assignments. What can anyone tell me about this area?  All I read is that the rivers are big; I would need a boat to fish them; and the fish on the Columbia around the Hanford area will glow! I’d appreciate any tips on flies and conditions. Regino —

Response:

<< I’ll be in Richand-Pasco, WA next week and would like to get some time on the river in between job assignments. What can anyone tell me about this area?  All I read is that the rivers are big; I would need a boat to fish them; and the fish on the Columbia around the Hanford area will glow! I’d appreciate any tips on flies and conditions. Regino   Regino, You will be about an hour to hour and a half from the famous Yakima River.  I highly recommend fishing it for wild Rainbow trout.  A local store in the area keeps a good web page about conditions.  I believe it is www.worleybugger.com In case that isn’t the right URL search under Worly Bugger Fly Shop. Fishing on the Columbia is very limited this time of year.  You can head over towards the Idaho border and get into some Spring Chinooks.  The Clearwater would be a decent bet there.  Unfortunately, I don’t fish that run so can’t be much help. Mike Spokane, WA

Response:

I’ll be in Richand-Pasco, WA next week and would like to get some time on the river in between job assignments. What can anyone tell me about this area?  All I read is that the rivers are big; I would need a boat to fish them; and the fish on the Columbia around the Hanford area will glow! I’d appreciate any tips on flies and conditions. Regino

The Yakima River between Yakima and Ellensburg is pretty good.  It takes a bit over an hour to get there from Richland.   Unfortunately, this time of year usually means considerable flow in the river to support irrigation, but you may be able to find decent fish along the banks using hoppers. About an hour north of Richland is a spring creek called Rocky Ford.  It is between Moses Lake and Ephrata off of SR 17.  When I lived there, it was great in the early morning and in the evening, but quite slow during the day.  Fish (Columbia Redsides) averaged ~20-24 inches and 3-8 lbs.  If you go there, take small flies (no bigger than 18s). You also might try the Jon Day and the Deschutes in Oregon.  They are not that far from the Tri Cities.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be in Richand-Pasco, WA next week and would like to get some time on the river in between job assignments. What can anyone tell me about this area?  All I read is that the rivers are big; I would need a boat to fish them; and the fish on the Columbia around the Hanford area will glow! I’d appreciate any tips on flies and conditions. Regino The Yakima River between Yakima and Ellensburg is pretty good.  It takes a bit over an hour to get there from Richland.   Unfortunately, this time of year usually means considerable flow in the river to support irrigation, but you may be able to find decent fish along the banks using hoppers. About an hour north of Richland is a spring creek called Rocky Ford.  It is between Moses Lake and Ephrata off of SR 17.  When I lived there, it was great in the early morning and in the evening, but quite slow during the day.  Fish (Columbia Redsides) averaged ~20-24 inches and 3-8 lbs.  If you go there, take small flies (no bigger than 18s). You also might try the Jon Day and the Deschutes in Oregon.  They are not that far from the Tri Cities.

I also recommend Rocky Ford.  Very small flies work great, but we also did well for very large bows using San Juan Worms, so take those along too.  At times the lunkers would hit those like a freight train. Good Luck, Pat Kirkpatrick * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

I also recommend Rocky Ford.  Very small flies work great, but we also did well for very large bows using San Juan Worms, so take those along too.  At times the lunkers would hit those like a freight train. Good Luck, Pat Kirkpatrick

Oops….I also forgot one:  try wooly buggers around dusk. Pat:  Is the stretch below the lower hatchery still closed?  It used to be a great place to go to avoid other fishers….

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place to go to avoid other fishers….

Better check the reg’s.  We were there 2 years ago and it was open right below the hatchery.  Btw, we ran out of San Juan Worms and couldn’t find any locally.  Finally found a tackle/hardware shop in Soap Lake, and the owner/tyer tied some up while we ate dinner across the street–kind of a flys made to order while-you-wait deal! Cheers, PatK * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Btw, we ran out of San Juan Worms and couldn’t find any locally.  Finally found a tackle/hardware shop in Soap Lake, and the owner/tyer tied some up while we ate dinner across the street–kind of a flys made to order while-you-wait deal! Cheers,

Ah….I remember the Soap Lake shop well…..I always thought that opening a shop in Ephrata would be a good thing to do.  You know…..go to RF in the morning, figure out what is hatching, tie a bunch up and sell them for an exorbitant price to all the folks getting skunked on the stream. When I left WA (about 4 years ago or so) RF had just been closed to public access right above the discharge stream from the lower hatchery.   The first year it was closed I managed to obtain access from the owner, but he subsequently ceased granting such access.  Oh, well.

Response:

There certainly is a dearth of flyfishing gear in that area, despite the ffing opportunities.  To insure a successful shop opening in that impoverished area, however, you may need to combine the flyshop with a Greasy Spoon diner, and maybe a gas station/general mercantile.  You know–a shopping mall not to exceed 1000sq.ft.! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Btw, we ran out of San Juan Worms and couldn’t find any locally.  Finally found a tackle/hardware shop in Soap Lake, and the owner/tyer tied some up while we ate dinner across the street–kind of a flys made to order while-you-wait deal! Cheers, Ah….I remember the Soap Lake shop well…..I always thought that opening a shop in Ephrata would be a good thing to do.  You know…..go to RF in the morning, figure out what is hatching, tie a bunch up and sell them for an exorbitant price to all the folks getting skunked on the stream. When I left WA (about 4 years ago or so) RF had just been closed to public access right above the discharge stream from the lower hatchery. The first year it was closed I managed to obtain access from the owner, but he subsequently ceased granting such access.  Oh, well.

Before you buy.

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Question:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                            Tess

I had my navel pierced just before I got pregnant.  I was incredably lucky and didn’t have to remove my jewlery.  I should add thought that the reason i was able to elave the jewlery in was because…well as the guy who pierced it at Stainless Studios said my navel is" just plain weird!"  The truth of the matter is most women do indeed have to remove their jewlery, either because the jewlery will beging to migrate out, or becasue the streching causes micro tears in the healed piercing and those tears get infected.  If she does decide to take the piercing out as her belly gets bigger, she can take comfort int he fact that, if the piercing is well healed, there is a chance that the hole will not close entierly and instead of her having to have it re-pierced after her pregnancy, she could simply have it streched back up to whatever size the current jewlery is. Hope that was helpful. Ashen. P.S.  this is a little O.T. but if you live near a place with a "Body Shop" you should head in there and buy her a few COco-butter sticks….have her rub that in her tummy, thighs, butt and brests and it will really help reduce the amount of strechmarks she receives. Trust me those sticks are a god send!!

Response:

Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

Response:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced

and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things.

Well, it depends on a number of things. In most cases it is better to remove the jewelry. The ring can cause damage to the piercing area has the body grows. The other problem is that if she is planning a hospital birth more than likely, they will give her clotting agents that will react to the metal the ring is made of. If she is concerned about losing the piercing she may consider using "fishing line" aka Monofilament nylon line which will tend to be a little more fexible then a ring and will not react to the clotting agents. — http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/9352

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I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Well, I posed that same question about 2-3 months ago when I found out I was pregnant. The info I got said that most people end up taking the jewelery out at about 6 months or so.  A few people posted that they were able to keep the original jewelery for the entire pregnancy. For me, at about 15 weeks, my belly button was shallow enough for the pierce to look pretty much like a surface pierce.  The top hole was getting sore and red and the ring was sticking out a great deal.  I was finding it exceedingly uncomfortable (especially when I started breaking out the panel pant which put the waistband of my pants above my navel. The pants would rub the ring when I walked and it was not a happy time for my navel. I had a choice of trying a barbell, fishing line or taking the jewelery out. I decided against a barbell because my navel was shallow as it was and I figured that the balls would probably start to dig in fairly soon.  I also didn’t really want to take the jewelery out without trying to keep it. So, I went to the hardware store to see if I could find fishing line that was close to the same gauge as my ring.  And the fishing line was all really tiny in comparison.  So, I bought a weed whacker line that’s close in gauge.  I cut a piece of the weed whacker line about 2mm longer than the length of the pierce and slid that puppy in.  So far, it’s been fine and I’m at 19 weeks.  The redness went away and the "retainer" isn’t bothersome in the least. My navel was pierced over a year ago and was totally healed when I got pregnant.  I would -not- suggest putting non-autoclaved weedwhacker line in just any navel, but it is working out for me, YMMV.  It’s plastic so it’s more flexible than a barbell.  And the pierce is tight enough for it to stay in place. It looks like I have a piece of uncooked spaghetti in there now though. electric. — please remove id. from the return addy to email electric.

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Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

They didn’t ask me to remove my rings, or my piercing jewlery….they did say though that if i had any vaginal piercings i would have to remove those.  At the time I did not, so there was not problem. Ashen.

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someone mentioned the cocoa butter sticks, they sell them at walgreens too (probably also other pharmacies), i think they’re palmer brand (the brand that makes all the cocoa butter stuff) good luck stephanie Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

– My Page: http://www.princeton.edu/~saobodda Best Radio Station: http://listen.to/wprb For Sale: http://auctions.yahoo.com/user/stephanieauryn "Don’t damn me when I speak a piece of mind ‘Cause silence isn’t golden when I’m holding it inside." -Guns and Roses

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Question:

NOTICE!  NOTICE!  NOTICE! This is just a heads-up that the Mid-Willamette Fly Fishing Club of Corvallis, Oregon, USA, is holding its monthly member meeting on Tuesday, February 4th, 1997.  The meeting will be at CH2M Hill’s facility, at King’s and Walnut, in Corvallis.  We meet at 7:30pm, with a social dinner opportunity at Pizza Hut, across the street, starting at 6:00pm. You don’t need to be a member to attend.  This month’s program will see Keith Burkhart, of The Vally Flyshop, in Salem, OR, demonstrating rod building. Hope to see you there, Charley

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Gee, too bad I didn’t see this yesterday.  I’ve been playing catchup. -Burton – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – NOTICE!  NOTICE!  NOTICE! This is just a heads-up that the Mid-Willamette Fly Fishing Club of Corvallis, Oregon, USA, is holding its monthly member meeting on Tuesday, February 4th, 1997.  The meeting will be at CH2M Hill’s facility, at King’s and Walnut, in Corvallis.  We meet at 7:30pm, with a social dinner opportunity at Pizza Hut, across the street, starting at 6:00pm. You don’t need to be a member to attend.  This month’s program will see Keith Burkhart, of The Vally Flyshop, in Salem, OR, demonstrating rod building. Hope to see you there, Charley

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Question:

______DEAR MARTIN:  Someone else is going to have to verify this, but I think I remember hearing someone mention that the U-Tube has an unseen dangerous aspect to it . . . but I don’t remember what it was. Possibly, someone else knows what that dangerous design feature is or if it groundless. George — MZ

Hi George As I recall there was a magazine article in Fly Fisherman in the late 1980’s in which tests were done in a swimming pool with various float tubes. The U Tube seems to be easier to tip over as I remember what I read. Those of you on this group with a better memory than me may know exactly which magazine and when. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – At one time, I did some product testing for the Creek Company before they moved to their present location.  I’ve used their tubes and others….and am currently using one that was designed by the Wood River Company in Chico, CA.  I would recommend the Wood River products highly. Barry Brown Hello out there! Is there anyone in this newsgroup, who has experience, or know anything, about a belly boat from Creek Company. The type is an U-form (U-shape, I’m not quite sure about the right word). If you have any information on this boat, I would be happy to hear your opinion. — Martin B. Hedegaard V

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 Does anyone out there have any idea of what the results of our recent  floods in Oregon will be on game fish?  How about our Salmon and  Steelhead populations, or even native trout?    Are there other resources on the internet more specifically for  northwest fly fishing?

I’ve found Creekside Flyfishing in Salem to have one of the best web sites on Oregon flyfishing resources.  You’ll find it at         http://www.halcyon.com/flyshop

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Does anyone out there have any idea of what the results of our recent floods in Oregon will be on game fish?  How about our Salmon and Steelhead populations, or even native trout?   Are there other resources on the internet more specifically for northwest fly fishing? Loren

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Does anyone out there have any idea of what the results of our recent floods in Oregon will be on game fish?  How about our Salmon and Steelhead populations, or even native trout?  

There are several threats to consider, sedimentation being top of my list.  Lots of reds were probably flushed away too– I’ve seen small fisheries destroyed by flooding due to logging, and they never recover.   There’s also the damage to the hatcheries, but that should only affect the age class that was to be released this year (although I’ve heard that the little game Congress played with the budget forced early release, and hence death, of millions of salmon).  I suppose the damge won’t be evident until spring… — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University        Dept. of History                 "Nothing interesting occurred today…"         -Meriwether Lewis at Ft. Clatsop, Oregon, Jan.4th, 1806

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Question:

I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod.  I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there.  Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.

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The definitive book on custom rod building is : Advanced Custom Rod Building by Dale Clemens publisher is Winchester Press. Can be bought through any mail order catalog that sells rod building supplies. — Dave

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In my opinnion "Start to Finish Fly rod Building" (50 pages) published by the FlexCoat Company is more than sufissient to do a very good first-time job. If you fall in love with rod building you can buy the more comprehensive stuff. I bought it from Anglers Workshop, WA. Good Luck Jan errik Frithjofsen I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod.  I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there.  Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.

Jan Erik Frithjofsen

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I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod.  I’ve been looking

through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there.  Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building<< A very good book with excellent photographs of the building process including many close ups  is Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod by Louis Garcia, published by Frank Amato Publications, it sells for $15.95.  This is an excellent book for the first time builder.  It walks you through the process from start to finish in a clear and precise manner. A.G.W. Manchester, NH

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I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod.  I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there.  Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.

A good book is one by Skip Morris on building graphite fly rods.  Also check mail order houses who specialize in rod building (e.g., Dale Clemens in Allentown, PA)

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: I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes.  Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras?

Here’s another alternative: don’t use flex coat.  Their epoxy is too thick and the syringes are unreliable.  I use a two-part epoxy formula made by Manhattan Custom Tackle that gives a thin, glassy finish.  You mix it using metal measuring spoons, so you know the parts are equal.

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: I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes.  Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras? Here’s another alternative: don’t use flex coat.  Their epoxy is too thick and the syringes are unreliable.  I use a two-part epoxy formula made by Manhattan Custom Tackle that gives a thin, glassy finish.  You mix it using metal measuring spoons, so you know the parts are equal.

I have had great sucess with the thinner of the two Flex Coat formulations.. After you build a rod them away. Replacement syringes are cheap insurance.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well. I use a piece of about 10lb test mono tippet material to pull the thread through, less twisting of everything.  Once the end is pulled under the last several wraps and through pull on it quite hard and this will stretch it and lift the wraps a little and then carefully cut it close with an X-acto or razor blade.  Then the end will pull back under the wraps nicely leaving no bumps…  sometimes I nick the wraps but then I just redo them.  Beats the hell out of trying to singe ends off, I always end up with sooty thread when I try that.  Good luck build nice rods!

I am surprised that no one commented on a simpler solution to pulling the thread through and cutting it off with a sharp knife/ razorblade/ X-acto knife/ etc. You can use the same method but leave the end of the thraed rather short, let’s say 1/8th. of an inch. If you pull this short end back under the last 10 wraps or so none of it will come out and you won’t have to bother with trimming the end off or singing it or having an unsightly stump. It may not always work but it really is quite simple. Good luck! Tom Hackmann

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building:  I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March.  However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later?

I have a question about the two part epoxy. I built two rods and the first one went fine because I used the syringes provided with the Crystal Coat to measure the two parts. The second rod is still tacky after 4 months, probably because the measurement of the Coat was incorrect. Why? Because the two measuring syringes were all gunked up from the first use.  So two questions. 1. How do you clean the syringes? No I didn’t mix the two. 2. Where do you buy new syringes without buying an entire new package of Clear Coat?

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I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes.  Next rod the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you purchase extras?

The directions on the Flex Coat I’ve been practicing with says not to clean the syringes.  I think it says to simply store them seperately in air tight containers.  I have not gone back to look at them since I put them in zip lock baggies, so I’m not sure if I’ll face the same problem you had or not.  As far as extras, the mail order companies (e.g. Angler’s Workshop, Jans) seem to have the best prices on these type of supplies.

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—— snip ——- : : I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes.  Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras? I was told by the guys at Flexcoat to use alcohol to clean the syringes. I have also read in Advanced Custom Rod Building by Dale Clemens that you can thin the Flexcoat up to 15% to make it thiner. I store my syringes in mid-stroke after cleaning. Oh, Netcrafter’s sells them seperately including the mixing cups. Keep your feet dry, — Bob San Jose, Ca

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building:  I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March.  However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   what should I practice? Yet another inquiry:  what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps?  Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)?  Or is there a more preferred method? Thanks for any info you can share. Andy

If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make the job easier. To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. To pull end of wrap under the winding  use a piece of same thread to make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end of the thread  with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no end showing. Just take your time, nothing is difficult. Chuck

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building:  I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March.  However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Andy If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make the job easier. To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. To pull end of wrap under the winding  use a piece of same thread to make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end of the thread  with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no end showing. Just take your time, nothing is difficult. Chuck

I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes.  Next rod the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you purchase extras?

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: Andy : : If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly : recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very : pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make : the job easier. : : To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, : then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. : : To pull end of wrap under the winding  use a piece of same thread to : make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or : so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end : of the thread  with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. : Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the : thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no : end showing. : : Just take your time, nothing is difficult. : : Chuck Chuck, I agree with every thing you have read, and I used to wrap that way. I had seen a wrapping tool in Herter’s catalog back in the late forties that I copied. This Christmas my kids gave me a Flo-coat wrapping tool. You don’t need it but it is nice. Netcrafter has them in their cat cheap. The thing I found was a copy of L.A. Garcia’s book "Hand crafting a Graphite Rod". It has some very nice photos (examlpes) of tools that can be copied. Something worth making _or_ purchasing is a whip finisher. I would never use a razor blade to cut the line for fear pf nicking the graphite and setting up a stress point for a fracture. Garcia states that if you pull evenly on the finisher and the thread end, the thread will break and in the process the finisher will come out also. Instead of using the same thread to tug the whip under the wrap, I’d suggest some monofiliment of about 15 lb. Just some additional thoujghts, — Bob San Jose, Ca

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I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well.

I use a piece of about 10lb test mono tippet material to pull the thread through, less twisting of everything.  Once the end is pulled under the last several wraps and through pull on it quite hard and this will stretch it and lift the wraps a little and then carefully cut it close with an X-acto or razor blade.  Then the end will pull back under the wraps nicely leaving no bumps…  sometimes I nick the wraps but then I just redo them.  Beats the hell out of trying to singe ends off, I always end up with sooty thread when I try that.  Good luck build nice rods! Catch and Release Dave Wood Ravenna OH

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Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY Here’s an idea I haven;t seen posted here before: instead of practicing on a cheap blank you probably won’t fish with anyway, buy a 3′ length of wooden dowling from your local hardware store (less than $1) and pretend it’s a blank.  Practice placing guides, wrapping them and finishing.   Then you’ll be ready for the real thing.

Consider that a wooden dowel will behave differently wrt absorption of the epoxy/varnish and wrt the way the wraps slide (and are manipulated) on the blank. It is always better to practice on something as close to the target as possible; it is always better to practice on something than not to practice at all. — Office:     Denver, Colorado  1-303-595-2864 Home:       Bailey, Colorado

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Thought I’d add a couple of things. See below. snip Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   what should I practice? Placing the guides just takes time & trial and error, ditto on wrapping them. If you’re going to shape your own grip that would be where to practice. If using a pre-built grip practice reaming the hole while still keeping it centered. But the real thing to practice I think is mixing, applying and drying the varnish. Try it a couple times on an old rod just to make sure you get the results you expect before going ‘live’. If you plan on modifying the blank for any reason (by cutting it) you definitely want a couple cheap guinea pigs.

One of the keys to working with Flex-coat type finishes or other epoxies is consistent temperature.  I like to work in the 75 degree (F) range and keep an aquarium thermometer on my work surface.  A normal desk lamp will keep the temp consistent and can its height can be adjusted accordingly (if your epoxy starts smoking, your area is too hot )  Keep the light on throughout the curing process.   Yet another inquiry:  what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps?  Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)?  Or is there a more preferred method? I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well.

So he uses the guitar string to cut the thread?  I think I’ll stick to a razor blade.  The blade should cut the thread with the slightest touch.  If it doesn’t, change blades.  On wraps in general, be consistent from guide to guide. Keep count of the number of turns.  If you take 10 turns before jumping on to the foot, do it on all the guides the same way.  Attention to detail is key. Relax, your rod’s going to fish fine when you’re done.   Ross

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 My question is:  instead of – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   what should I practice? Yet another inquiry:  what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps?  Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)?  Or is there a more preferred method?

Here’s an idea I haven;t seen posted here before: instead of practicing on a cheap blank you probably won’t fish with anyway, buy a 3′ length of wodden dowling from your local hardware store (less than $1) and pretend it’s a blank.  Practice placing guides, wrapping them and finishing.   Then you’ll be ready for the real thing. The most difficult aspect of the process, IMO, is wrapping, especially if you are fussy about appearance.  Which leads to your last question: I haven’t heard of that technique before, but it sounds like it will result in frayed thread ends sticking out of the wraps.  A neater solution is to pull up on the thread end at a 90 degree angle to the blank and cut with a very sharp exacto knofe as close to the wraps as possible.  More often than not, the cut end is snaps back under the wrap.

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| Hello All: | | my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of | risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice | rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP | | Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   | what should I practice? | Andy OK I was in this position about 8 months ago.  Since then I have built two rods, a Loomis IM6 8′ 6wt and a IMX 9′ 9wt.  I dont think you need to practice on anything cheaper than what you want to fish with.  There is no magic to building a graphite rod, and you really don’t need any of the stands that are sold as wrapping stands.  I used the Morris book which explained everything well enough.  I used the dish method to hold the thread and a Law book for tensioning.  Wraps are comparatively easy to do and you can redo any of them if you feel they are not up to par untill you flex coat them.  I did a couple of wraps on a dowell to get the hang of it.  Finishing a wrap by pulling it under the last 1/2 dozen wraps with another piece of string then I cut it flush with a new X-acto blade.  I can’t tell the diference between my wraps and Loomis Sage et al and I’m pretty picky.  Things get a bit tricky if you want to include embedded trim rings but you probably won’t bother on your first attempt. The only thing I’ve had trouble with is a inlayed wrap of only one thread.         The only thing I havn’t done is apply the flex coat myself (the place I bought everything else will flex coat as a service).  I did buy some and I did a wrap on a section of a metal rod and coat it.  It came out OK not meny bubbles – and I wasn’t being careful in the mixing process – decided to let the store do it because hand turning it was a pain in the you-know-what and I didn’t want to buy a turner then.  I’m currently making a turner out of an old electric clock and I’ll do everything myself next time (I’ll still buy preformed grips). Good luck and have fun. PVM — / Paul V. Moruzzi                                                       | Patient Monitoring Division (PMD)                                     | | Hewlett Packard                           HP Telnet: 1-659-7850       | | 3000 Minuteman Road                           Voice: 1-508-659-7850   | | Andover, Ma.  01810-1099                        Fax: 1-508-685-5372   |

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Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building:  I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March.  However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later?

The first rod I built was on a cheap ($60) blank from a now defunct company. Everything worked fine, the glue jobs all held, etc., but there were some cosmetic touches that were beyond my capability at the time, so naturally I went on to build another and so on and so :- I don’t get too gaudy, in fact I don’t even use a trim band anymore, but I do like a single inlaid thread at the butt and at each ferrule. At first getting these right was maddening and very time consuming, but failure doesn’t wreck the blank, so you can start over again. By the time I bought a good blank I’d built 3 or 4 rods and it came out exactly like I wanted it to. Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   what should I practice?

Placing the guides just takes time & trial and error, ditto on wrapping them. If you’re going to shape your own grip that would be where to practice. If using a pre-built grip practice reaming the hole while still keeping it centered. But the real thing to practice I think is mixing, applying and drying the varnish. Try it a couple times on an old rod just to make sure you get the results you expect before going ‘live’. If you plan on modifying the blank for any reason (by cutting it) you definitely want a couple cheap guinea pigs. Yet another inquiry:  what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps?  Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)?  Or is there a more preferred method?

I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks for any info you can share. Andy

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Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building:  I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March.  However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world.  My question is:  instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first?  I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise.  I intend to go slow and carefully.  Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions:  what is the most difficult aspect of the process?   what should I practice? Yet another inquiry:  what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps?  Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)?  Or is there a more preferred method? Thanks for any info you can share. Andy

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