Question:

I am planning a trip to Australia in January and would like to go Marlin fishing while there.  I will fly into Sydney and then go to Cairns for scuba diving.  Most of my stay will be at Cairns with a possibility of driving from Cairns to Sydney for my flight out. Is Marlin fishing in January any good? Any suggestions about fishing there? Can you recommend any boats/captains? Do you have any idea of the cost? Thanks in Advance, Chuck Before you buy.

Response:

I am planning a trip to Australia in January and would like to go Marlin fishing while there. I will fly into Sydney and then go to Cairns for scuba diving.  Most of my stay will be at Cairns with a possibility of driving from Cairns to Sydney for my flight out. Is Marlin fishing in January any good?

The Cairns black marlin season winds down in mid-December or so, sorry. Fishing is excellent to the south at Port Stephens (near Sydney) in February and March for smaller marlin up to 500 lbs + but not the grander blacks.  Not sure about January, it may be good in P.S. but it may be a bit early. Can you recommend any boats/captains?

I used Billy Billson on "Viking II" for two trips (several days each trip), released a black marlin around 1,200 lbs and two around 600 lbs (crew estimates).  http://www.viking11.com/   If you write him now he won’t see it until December as they are living out on the reef right now fishing heavy tackle. Would also recommend Carol North at Cairns Reef Charter Services, she can book you on numerous boats in Cairns but I don’t think she’s booking Port Stephens. http://www.ausfish.com/crcs/ Do you have any idea of the cost?

I think Bill is around $2,400 Aus for liveaboard out of Cairns and around $1,800 or so Aus out of Port Stephens.  Multiply by .6 or so to convert to US dollars.  You can get a smaller boat for less (or a larger boat for more . Thanks, Chuck

Here’s a couple of photos of black marlin from trips the past couple of years on "Viking II" … they grow ‘em big over there.  A friend killed one 1,252 lbs last year fishing near us with Peter Wright. Bill http://members.aol.com/bhilton665/oz/   (est 600, 1100 lb blacks) http://members.aol.com/bhilton665/fishing/oz/  (600 lb black) http://members.aol.com/bhilton665/oz/bigblack.htm (1200 lb black)

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Question:

I will be on Amelia Island and have some opportunity to fish on Dec3-5, 2000.  Any information on the fishing there at that time will be appreciated.  I could fish on my own or with a guide, if anyone has suggestions.  Thanks for the help. Steve

Response:

Hi Steve, Any questions you might have regarding Fly fishing  in Florida can be answered by one of our Florida Fly Fishing Professionals. Call toll free 1-877-505-8585 or contact us thru our website http://www.totalfishingadventures.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be on Amelia Island and have some opportunity to fish on Dec3-5, 2000.  Any information on the fishing there at that time will be appreciated.  I could fish on my own or with a guide, if anyone has suggestions.  Thanks for the help. Steve

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Question:

All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable? Thanks! Scott

Response:

Yes it is entirely reasonable Scott. St Croix has the Legend series of fly rods for around $100, I own 3 of them and entirely satisfied with them all. There are several of us on this NG who have "discovered" Cabela’s 3 Forks and Stowaway series flyrods. I can tell you that I have extensively tested all my 3 Forks and Stowaways and they are well worth the money. Probably the best dollar for dollar buy on fly rods anywhere. Since you are new at this flyrodding business, a slower action rod would be the best choice for you, and the Cabela’s rods are slow action rods.  You will be fishing for trout on the Rogue (presumably) I would recommend a 5 wt 9 footer.  St Croix carries this in One other piece of advice, you can get a good reel these days for around $40 and up, and that’s really all you need, but get a decent quality line.  Hope this helps. Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… p rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… b cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable? Thanks! Scott

Response:

Welcome to flyfishing Scott.  If you want a very economical starter set, I would suggest a Pflueger Purist 5 or 6 wt 8 1/2′ rod from Kmart or GI Joe’s for about $45 and a Pflueger Medalist reel (about $30?) or an Okuma Sierra (for $39 from www.Ezyflyfish.com), and a Cortland Fair Play fly line to match the rod.  All for well under a $100.  The rods are surprisingly good performers compared to anything I’ve tried for under $100.  I agree with the idea of renting or borrowing some equipment first, if possible, and also taking some flycasting lessons. Good Luck flyfishing, Pat K * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

John, I got the beer, but where’s my steak? — Opie  –Planning for the Past–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …this is by far the best……spend three c-notes on a half a day’s fishing with a lot of instruction and a person in your frame of mind will save a lot of money in the long run…..buy the guide a beer and a sandwich or steak afterwards and keep you ears open!……john Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

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I’ve been watching this thread pretty close and it has come to my attention that more well thought out posts are now being offered. There are a great many more posts that recommend low cost great for beginners starter kits like the Cabelas line and a lot less of the "what do you want to fish for and where" along with the "get what fits you" and "The better you learn with, the better you’ll be (meaning spend a bundle on a fast long rod.) The last of which is pure BS. A beginner needs a rod that will let him feel loading and allow him time to react, is forgiving of off timing and minor foepas. Is not expensive to buy leaving enough for vet flys etc. is short enough not to tangle in tree limbs. Last but not least is a combination that is still of use even after the graduation up to the faster longer rods as expertise grows. The best advice is to amass all the mail order catalogs you can get. Study them, Then purchase a starter combo that is slow, short , and pleases your eye. By the way the reel is important unless you are fishing for shinners. John Popp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

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The FAQ page can be found on the new ROFF page.  The link is bellow.  A lot of other good ROFF information is also on the page.  Enjoy.  :-) BTW, I like the Cabela’s rods for the buck.  Check out http://www.cabelas.com/texis/scripts/store/+/CatalogDisplay/displayPOD/C abFALL1998/CabFALL1998AVATAA/IA495C They are in your price range and would be a good starting point. However you should know that after you’re hooked, you might want something that cost a little bit more and that fits your particular fishing style. — Vern The new ROFF page: http://home.earthlink.net/~flyfishing4fun "Wilderness needs no defense, only more defenders"                             quote by Edward Abbey All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. (snip) Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland for $150 and this Cahill (snip)… I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable?

YES Thanks! Scott

Before you buy.

Response:

…this is by far the best……spend three c-notes on a half a day’s fishing with a lot of instruction and a person in your frame of mind will save a lot of money in the long run…..buy the guide a beer and a sandwich or steak afterwards and keep you ears open!……john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG.

There is a FAQ somewhere, but the best advice on ROFF is "DUCK!" and "Be afraid, be very afraid…"  <G.  Seriously, a FAQ on this would be kinda useless, as there are many opinions.  You know what they say about opinions and assholes?   Well, ROFF is ground zero…<G. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy.

Oregon?  There are some here that will be a great help, I’m sure. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65.

JMO, but I wouldn’t buy your first rod via mail order.  Trying to buy a rod/reel this way is like saying "I like blue.  Please send blue pants." You really need to actually feel, handle, and optimally, cast the rod, especially as a novice. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable?

Well, again, JMO, but you did ask:  Is that reasonable?  Yes.  Possible? Yes.  Likely?  Depends.  Confused?  Sorry.  Seriously, it is related to the advice above in that you need to find a rod you like, and you might like a 20.00 rod or you might like a 2000.00 rod.   If your situation is such that money is no object, then buy what you like, period, be it 20.00 or 2000.00.  IMO, any synthetic rod over about 200.00 is priced for reasons other than "cost," i.e. seat and handle hardware, finish, guides, name, handwork, warranty, etc., and is a "value to buyer" situation.  This is OK, just understand what your money is buying. If you need/want to stay on a budget (or just have a frugal streak), go get a cheapo rod and reel (if you buy a "Starter Set," you will likely need another line) at WalMart/KMart or get something used, like at a pawn shop, in the appropriate size.  Why?  Simple: you likely don’t know what you like, and having no experience to go on, won’t know cheap from expensive, or even if you like the sport, so why risk any more than needed to check it out?  I’ll say JMO, but I’d doubt any could prove me wrong: A 20.00 flyrod can have, and usually does have, more in common with a 1000.00 rod than a novice would think, same for a 15.00 versus a 600.00 reel (learning, practice, freshwater, and, generally, fish under 15ish pounds), but a 15.00 line is not likely even close to 40.00 line. A 1500.00 rig will not be easier or faster to learn on, nor will it necessarily be "better" for a particular person.  Buy a good DT (Double Taper) line for practice because when you wear one end out _practicing_(hint, hint), you can reverse it and have a "new line."  A WF (Weight Forward) would seem a waste here, but YMMV. Also, JMO: you can teach yourself, but lessons from a pro or experienced flyrodder can be invaluable and will likely speed things up.  This is where some "budgeting" might come in: If a shop you like and feel you trust offers free classes for new customers, but charges for non-customers, that might figure into the above "cheapo" advice, and would likely be worth figuring in. HTH? TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Scott

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Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo,

You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[

Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

Question:

finer tippets and different flies till ya get it figured out…..have the local shop recommend a fly or two.

And that would be Tulpehocken Creek Outfitters in West Reading.   Helpful, good guys in my limited experience there.    (On W. Penn Ave.?  Tom?) Joe F.

Response:

One of the biggest problems i see are the fish going right up to the fly and kind of nosing it and turning around.  Well  not to keep yammering on and on i’ll close  here and thanks in advance for any and all info. minkaz

As a newbie you will want to get some basics down and have confidence they are working for you.  I suggest you switch to a #14 Royal Wulff dry on a 5X tippet.  If you are using a tapered leader get one which goes down to 5X.  IF you have plenty of casting room get your line into the air and false cast letting out a little line as you go until you get 30 ft. or so out then lay it on the water.  Add power to your strokes as you add line.  Finesse and control will come with practice. Make sure to hold the line in your opposit hand and running over your rod hand index finger.  Watch the fly and at the strike set the hook with the LINE hand and not the rod.  Tightening up on the rod with the index finger at the same time also gives you a quicker set response. DO NOT TAKE YOUR EYES OFF THE FLY NOR DROP THE LINE!  This is important for a newbie to get used to the strike response. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

: Are you hauling or just casting?  If you’re double hauling and only getting 20 : feet, you do have a problem.  If you are just "flipping" the line, learn to : haul. To get past 20′ you *do not* need to learn to haul!

Um, I didn’t say you did, _but_ to get (long) distance, you *do* need to learn to haul, and it especially important with "basic" equipment (one can do a lot of things if one has no regard for equipment), so they may as well learn now.  That said, the poster gave very little info, but _seemed_ to want distance – "Any tips on increasing distance?"  IMO, yes – learn to haul.  If you disagree, you’re wrong, but I’ll agree to disagree.  Also, learning to haul will, IMO, help with casting/timing/"feeling" in an all-around fashion, but that _is_ JMO. TC, R

Response:

Goldens?  In NE PA?  Um……no, I don’t think so.  You might want to have another look at your field guide. The fish commission here has an excellent stocking program.. They release 50 or 60 goldens in this area as trophy fish each year.  It is true however that we have no natural goldens.

Wow this guy’s pretty good – way to keep your cool minkaz. I’m more concerned with getting a good presentation at this point than distance.

Good man! Regards, Jeff

Response:

I’m was casting about 20 ‘ of fly line.

So that’s roughly a 30′ cast. You can catch a lot of fish with that, as long as the surface isn’t real smooth or the trout wary. Regards, Jeff

Response:

Um, I didn’t say you did, _but_ to get (long) distance, you *do* need to learn to haul, and it especially important with "basic" equipment (one can do a lot of things if one has no regard for equipment), so they may as well learn now.  That said, the poster gave very little info, but _seemed_ to want distance – "Any tips on increasing distance?"  IMO, yes – learn to haul.  If you disagree, you’re wrong, but I’ll agree to disagree.  Also, learning to haul will, IMO, help with casting/timing/"feeling" in an all-around fashion, but that _is_ JMO.

A cast of 30 feet is more than adequate in most stream situations, especially when fishing dries like the gentleman was describing. ALL anglers can control drag and make more accurate presentations and cast at shorter distances. Few, even experienced anglers, can really control drag and presentation on a stream at distances over this.  Instead of trying for more distance, my advice would be to first learn to: cast accurately within this 30′ distance stalk and wade carefully control drag make a "delicate" presentation control the line make reasonable fly selections Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Are you hauling or just casting?  If you’re double hauling and only getting 20 : feet, you do have a problem.  If you are just "flipping" the line, learn to : haul. To get past 20′ you *do not* need to learn to haul! Um, I didn’t say you did, _but_ to get (long) distance, you *do* need to learn to haul, and it especially important with "basic" equipment (one can do a lot of things if one has no regard for equipment), so they may as well learn now.  That said, the poster gave very little info, but _seemed_ to want distance – "Any tips on increasing distance?"  IMO, yes – learn to haul.  If you disagree, you’re wrong, but I’ll agree to disagree.  Also, learning to haul will, IMO, help with casting/timing/"feeling" in an all-around fashion, but that _is_ JMO. TC, R

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Um, I didn’t say you did, _but_ to get (long) distance, you *do* need to learn to haul, and it especially important with "basic" equipment (one can do a lot of things if one has no regard for equipment), so they may as well learn now.  That said, the poster gave very little info, but _seemed_ to want distance – "Any tips on increasing distance?"  IMO, yes – learn to haul.  If you disagree, you’re wrong, but I’ll agree to disagree.  Also, learning to haul will, IMO, help with casting/timing/"feeling" in an all-around fashion, but that _is_ JMO. A cast of 30 feet is more than adequate in most stream situations, especially when fishing dries like the gentleman was describing. ALL anglers can control drag and make more accurate presentations and cast at shorter distances. Few, even experienced anglers, can really control drag and presentation on a stream at distances over this.  Instead of trying for more distance, my advice would be to first learn to: cast accurately within this 30′ distance stalk and wade carefully control drag make a "delicate" presentation control the line make reasonable fly selections

Agreed, somewhat.  Originally, I was simply addressing the distance question, but I do think learning to haul is a needed skill.  I will admit I may have being somewhat presumptive, but I did think by "distance" the poster meant more than going from 20 feet to 30 feet.  Usually when someone on ROFF (especially newbies) brings up distance, they seem to mean "casting tourney" distances, and, IMO, even the lower end of that range is nearly *impossible* (I’d say *_IMPOSSIBLE_*, but I never say that…<G) without a double haul, especially with an novice and a fishing-built rod, much less a vet and a tournament-built rod (which is why they are/were two different rods).  If you care, look up some of my posts for my opinions on the "gotta go long" thinking. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Willi

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Nahhhh.  You go JeffC.  Just let us know how it works out

Hmm, half the shit I get is for complaining to much and not contributing too discussions actually related too fly fishing.  Half the shit I get is for adding to much too fly fishing discussions.  The other half of the shit I get is for being a general wiseass, jackass, or just plane pimply white ass.  I’m sure you’ll understand if I just post what I want to — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

As a newbie you will want to get some basics down and have confidence they are working for you.  I suggest you switch to a #14 Royal Wulff dry on a 5X tippet.

But wouldn’t you want to know what kind of water he’s fishing before recommending a fly like that?  All we know so far as that where he’s fishing is: "small creek about 15 feet across.  I found a nice pool that’s is really close to crysal clear."  It could be a smooth surfaced, clear spring creek.  We also know he’s getting a lot of refusals.  Would you recommend the same or different fly for that? — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

We also know he’s getting a lot of refusals.

Correction – he’s getting rises but not hooking them – don’t know if they are refusals or not. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

(uninformed snipped) Regards, Jeff

On Eastern streams the RW is an excellent all-a-round searching pattern well suited for small stream use.  His objective here is to "learn the methodology" and take a few fish.  He will get enough takers on the size and fly type recommended to develop the striking technique, have a fly visible enough to watch on the surface to develop his line handling techniques, and a "close enough" match to many hatches in the region this time of year.  Entomology, selective line handling, water reading, and casting improvement will be developed over time with on-water practice. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

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As a newbie you will want to get some basics down and have confidence they are working for you.  I suggest you switch to a #14 Royal Wulff dry on a 5X tippet. But wouldn’t you want to know what kind of water he’s fishing before recommending a fly like that

    i don’t give a damn if you are fishing the lava flow in hawaii, or the runoff from victoria falls.  if there’s a trout in the water, he will come about as close to hitting a rw as anything else. wayno

Response:

Are you casting 20 feet between you and the fly, or 20 feet of flyline? It may not be that you’re jumping the gun, but of course it might  They may be rising to it but not actually taking it in their mouths.  You could try a more sparsely tied fly (for example a thorax or no hackle instead of a Wullf style, if the water is fairly flat).  Or you could just try a size or 2 smaller.  Or you could try a longer, lighter tippet. Regards, Jeff

Response:

You MAY be setting the hook to fast.  Then again you may not be fast enough.  Fish will spit anything that doesn’t feel right.  Timing is critical. If you’re getting fish to rise to your fly you don’t need to cast any further.  Don’t worry about it. Distance will come with practice. Goldens?  In NE PA?  Um……no, I don’t think so.  You might want to have another look at your field guide.

The fish commission here has an excellent stocking program.. They release 50 or 60 goldens in this area as trophy fish each year.  It is true however that we have no natural goldens.  I was just out for a little bit this morning and the casting is coming along due to some really good advice.  I’m more concerned with getting a good presentation at this point than distance.   just looking ahead for some pond/lake fishing but for now i’m happy as a clam at the creeks and streams in the area..   thank again for all the info minkaz

Response:

Are you casting 20 feet between you and the fly, or 20 feet of flyline? It may not be that you’re jumping the gun, but of course it might  They may be rising to it but not actually taking it in their mouths.  You could try a more sparsely tied fly (for example a thorax or no hackle instead of a Wullf style, if the water is fairly flat).  Or you could just try a size or 2 smaller.  Or you could try a longer, lighter tippet. Regards, Jeff

I’m was casting about 20 ‘ of fly line.  i’ve gotten better today though so the distance is coming.. I received some info stating i was probably moving the rod too much and it was the case…   i had a little rainbow on this morning but it spit the hook.  still lots of fun though. be going out later. thanks again minkaz

Response:

Hello all I’ve been reading this newsgroup for a few days and have gotten a wealth of information from it.  I am new to fly fishing and am looking for some advice.  I’ve gotten my cast down pretty good well good for the creek i fish..  I can’t get decent distance but the presentation seems to be not too bad.  Any tips on increasing distance?  I’m only getting about 20 feet now, which is about double what i was getting heheeh. Now for the big question.. I’ve been fishing for trout in a small creek and  i’ve been using dry flies and have gotten a lot of hits.. fishing is good here in NE PA.  However i can’t seem to get a good hookset or any hookset for that matter…. probably me jumping the gun but any advice on this would be appreciated. Equipment i’ve been using is a cheap combo i wanted to try out just to get into it a bit more to see if i liked it before investing a ton of cash.  It’s a pflueger rod 5-6   using a #6 wf flyline and a tapered leader.  whole thing cost me about 35 bucks and i’ve gotten some activity from the trout just can’t seem to land one.   One of the biggest problems i see are the fish going right up to the fly and kind of nosing it and turning around.  Well  not to keep yammering on and on i’ll close  here and thanks in advance for any and all info. minkaz

Response:

Hello all I’ve been reading this newsgroup for a few days and have gotten a wealth of information from it.  I am new to fly fishing and am looking for some advice.  I’ve gotten my cast down pretty good well good for the creek i fish..  I can’t get decent distance but the presentation seems to be not too bad.  Any tips on increasing distance?  I’m only getting about 20 feet now, which is about double what i was getting heheeh.

Are you hauling or just casting?  If you’re double hauling and only getting 20 feet, you do have a problem.  If you are just "flipping" the line, learn to haul. Now for the big question.. I’ve been fishing for trout in a small creek and  i’ve been using dry flies and have gotten a lot of hits.. fishing is good here in NE PA.  However i can’t seem to get a good hookset or any hookset for that matter…. probably me jumping the gun but any advice on this would be appreciated.

1st, sharpen your hooks, then work on your technique – practice, practice, practice. Equipment i’ve been using is a cheap combo i wanted to try out just to get into it a bit more to see if i liked it before investing a ton of cash.  It’s a pflueger rod 5-6   using a #6 wf flyline and a tapered leader.  whole thing cost me about 35 bucks and i’ve gotten some activity from the trout just can’t seem to land one.  

IMO, the cost of the equipment shouldn’t be the deciding factor in catching fish and see above about practice. One of the biggest problems i see are the fish going right up to the fly and kind of nosing it and turning around.  Well  not to keep yammering on and on i’ll close  here and thanks in advance for any and all info.

Then they almost certainly realize something’s up.  Perhaps a further description of your tackle and typical conditions.  What patterns are you using? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -minkaz

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Hello all I’ve been reading this newsgroup for a few days and have gotten a wealth of information from it.  I am new to fly fishing and am looking for some advice.

        ken fortenberry is our on duty newbie advice person this week, minkaz, and it would appear that he is temporarily occupied elsewhere. i am quite certain that he will return shortly with a wealth of information for you.  if he doesn’t show in an hour or so, email me with specific questions and i will do the best i can to be of assistance. wayno         p.s.:  what kind of vehicle do you own?

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Any tips on increasing distance? check out books and videos from the library Equipment I’ve been using is a cheap combo

good for you…money aint the thing…. One of the biggest problems i see are the fish going right up to the fly and kind of nosing it and turning a round. finer tippets and different flies till ya get it figured out…..have the local shop recommend a fly or two. flies, finer tippets and sneaky’s the key….for now anyhow

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Nahhhh.  You go JeffC.  Just let us know how it works out (notwithstanding the Richardson Lady.  For GOD’S sake, don’t make her mad…). Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all I’ve been reading this newsgroup for a few days and have gotten a wealth of information from it.  I am new to fly fishing and am looking for some advice.         ken fortenberry is our on duty newbie advice person this week, minkaz, and it would appear that he is temporarily occupied elsewhere. i am quite certain that he will return shortly with a wealth of information for you.  if he doesn’t show in an hour or so, email me with specific questions and i will do the best i can to be of assistance. wayno         p.s.:  what kind of vehicle do you own?

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Then they almost certainly realize something’s up.  Perhaps a further description of your tackle and typical conditions.  What patterns are you using? typical conditions where i fish are:  small creek about 15 feet across..  I found a nice pool that’s is really close to crysal clear. i’ts over 6.5 feet deep i know due to me being a newbie at rock climbing also lol.   anyway i’ve been seeing lots and lots of trout in the pool and also at the far end of it in the shallows.  i caught a golden there the other day with my ultralight.  patterns?  i have no idea i’ve been tying on so many different flies and just going with what they chase. So far what’s worked best is an ant and anything that has some yellow or brown color in it.   I have had a few bites but the old heart got pounding and i guess i went to set the hook to fast. Hopefully i’ll settle down with that or i’ll be moving into a cardiac care center.  Again thanks for all the replies

You MAY be setting the hook to fast.  Then again you may not be fast enough.  Fish will spit anything that doesn’t feel right.  Timing is critical. If you’re getting fish to rise to your fly you don’t need to cast any further.  Don’t worry about it. Distance will come with practice. Goldens?  In NE PA?  Um……no, I don’t think so.  You might want to have another look at your field guide.

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   ken fortenberry is our on duty newbie advice person this week, minkaz, and it would appear that he is temporarily occupied elsewhere. i am quite certain that he will return shortly with a wealth of information for you.  if he doesn’t show in an hour or so, email me with specific questions and i will do the best i can to be of assistance. wayno    p.s.:  what kind of vehicle do you own?

hehe i drive an old 79 ford f150 pick up that i’m in the process of restoring.. but i’m not a plummer hehehehe

Response:

Then they almost certainly realize something’s up.  Perhaps a further description of your tackle and typical conditions.  What patterns are you using?

typical conditions where i fish are:  small creek about 15 feet across..  I found a nice pool that’s is really close to crysal clear. i’ts over 6.5 feet deep i know due to me being a newbie at rock climbing also lol.   anyway i’ve been seeing lots and lots of trout in the pool and also at the far end of it in the shallows.  i caught a golden there the other day with my ultralight.  patterns?  i have no idea i’ve been tying on so many different flies and just going with what they chase. So far what’s worked best is an ant and anything that has some yellow or brown color in it.   I have had a few bites but the old heart got pounding and i guess i went to set the hook to fast. Hopefully i’ll settle down with that or i’ll be moving into a cardiac care center.  Again thanks for all the replies minkaz

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Question:

        choose from among the well known sources, such as kaufmann’s, dan bailey, orvis, umpqua, ll bean, etc.; or, suggest your own favorite individual tier.

I don’t know who makes the best flies, but I was intrigued a couple of years ago by a tiny note in the upper corner of a page full of flies in an Orvis catalogue.  The note stated clearly and unambiguously that all Orvis flies are made in America except for those that are imported.  This eased my mind considerably as it is my policy to ALWAYS buy American….except when I want an import.

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drinking, the bdt society now solicits both members and input regarding this vital question:  which commercial house produces the highest quality pre-tied flies?

What? You want me to quit bying 85 dollar chicken necks from people who choose to live in the ugly part of Colorado?`This almost sounds unamerican. Seriously I seldom buy commercialy tied flies, but when I do it gives me another excuse to do business with those great folks at Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone.It is kinda cool to do business with a shop that sells flies only in useful sizes( none of that such and such patterns in sizes 2-22 etc.) Big Dale

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Every time I buy flies from someone else, I am unsatisfied with them.  If you want it done right, do it yourself. Pete C

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You are right Pete and if you still don’t like them blame the wife. Ernie Harrison Like to make fly-fishing stuff?  See: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Every time I buy flies from someone else, I am unsatisfied with them.  If you want it done right, do it yourself. Pete C

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(snip) Well, I qualify on both counts but I’m afraid you guys would steal my boots and make me drink Canadian beer and American whiskey.

        a fate far better than you deserve, illini swine!!!         god, i keep forgetting. ahswaretuhgawd i’ll get them mailed next week. wayno

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         only wastrels and louts need apply for membership.  waldo, that means you and jeffey miller are pre-approved. muchas gracias, senor. we will wear those badges with honor this afternoon as we’re fishing all those grandfather watershed streams you love so much  :) go brookies, waldo

I just bought some sand eels ’cause I was too lazy to mess with the epoxy.  I guess I qualify too.  I hope the D’s still let me fish with them. Peter

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Peter I-buy-most-of-my-flies Charles scribbles: <<I just bought some sand eels ’cause I was too lazy to mess with the epoxy.  I guess I qualify too.  I hope the D’s still let me fish with them. No way, deprived one.  You ain’t fishin’ in *my* water with no stinkin’ sand eel.  Do you realize that you have been lumped into the same class as wayno, Pamlico Jim, Ken Fortenberry, Jeff never mind.  Can I join your club, amigo.  I promise to never ever Long Lost Louie Dave LaCourse

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I just bought some sand eels ’cause I was too lazy to mess with the epoxy.  I guess I qualify too.  I hope the D’s still let me fish with them.

I don’t know about them there store-bought sand eels – they *might* work if depth-charge line. But as long as you bring the Sleeman’s, I’m sure both of us D’s will be happy to fish with you, Peter ;^) /daytripper (It’s gonna happen! I’m rigged for adventure once again!)

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wayno –  pssst…waldo tied some flies in my presence…it was a horrifying experience…thought you’d want to know…btw, i generally forego belonging to any club that would have me as a member…gotta have some standards, don’t ya know…however, given the quality of this group, i’m proud to be a charter member…just don’t be askin fer no dues… me and walt been fishin for two days and are headin out again this morning…sorry you couldn’t make it… jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         founded in order to preserve more spare time for serious drinking, the bdt society now solicits both members and input regarding this vital question:  which commercial house produces the highest quality pre-tied flies?         choose from among the well known sources, such as kaufmann’s, dan bailey, orvis, umpqua, ll bean, etc.; or, suggest your own favorite individual tier.         only wastrels and louts need apply for membership.  waldo, that means you and jeffey miller are pre-approved.         all responses are greatly appreciated by the charter member, yours truly wayno

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Harrison) writes: choose from among the well known sources, such as kaufmann’s, dan bailey, orvis, umpqua, ll bean, etc.; or, suggest your own favorite individual tier.

Sam Surrey, from Michigan. Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

        only wastrels and louts need apply for membership.  waldo, that means you and jeffey miller are pre-approved.

muchas gracias, senor. we will wear those badges with honor this afternoon as we’re fishing all those grandfather watershed streams you love so much  :) go brookies, waldo — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

Response:

which commercial house produces the highest quality pre-tied flies?

The obvious answer is http://www.ezflyfish.com Before the grand opening of that preeminent establishment this bdt’er thought Feather-Craft Fly Fishing of St. Louis had the best quality. http://www.flyfishamerica.com/Ads/National/FeatherCraft98JF.html I find that I’ve been at this long enough not to need to mail order many flies anymore. I have the "basics" and I like to drop a dime in the local fly shop wherever I happen to be to pick up local favorites and replenish the "basics".         only wastrels and louts need apply for membership.  

Well, I qualify on both counts but I’m afraid you guys would steal my boots and make me drink Canadian beer and American whiskey. — Ken Fortenberry

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Wayno, the misled, writes:

<<founded in order to preserve more spare time for serious drinking, the bdt society now solicits both members and input regarding this vital question:  which commercial house produces the highest quality pre-tied flies? Buy?  Buy?  You can drink while tying, my friend.  That’s half the fun.  Buy flies instead of tying them?  Sacrilege, I tell you, sacrilege!  Buy instead of spending countless hours in front of your vice using up thousands of dollars worth of materials?  Buy instead of getting deer hair clippings, herl, feathers etc all over the rug? Buy instead of providing your puppy a tasty saddle to munch on? (I like Kaufman’s, with LL Bean a very close second.  Go to www.kman.com.  Tell ‘em Louie sent ya!) Louie

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        founded in order to preserve more spare time for serious drinking, the bdt society now solicits both members and input regarding this vital question:  which commercial house produces the highest quality pre-tied flies?         choose from among the well known sources, such as kaufmann’s, dan bailey, orvis, umpqua, ll bean, etc.; or, suggest your own favorite individual tier.         only wastrels and louts need apply for membership.  waldo, that means you and jeffey miller are pre-approved.         all responses are greatly appreciated by the charter member, yours truly wayno

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Question:

See the photo series in alt.flyfishing. — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

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Need some help with egg flies.   Any ideas.  They aren’t that bad, but I would like to tighten them up a bit

Response:

Need some help with egg flies.   Any ideas.  They aren’t that bad, but I would like to tighten them up a bit

The key to any good egg pattern is to drain the egg of the embryo. I accomplish this by poking the "fat" end with a good sized needle. Then I sit the egg vertically in a large shot glass and poke the other end from the top. What this accomplishes is to eliminate the naturally occuring vacumn, you’ll be surprised how fast the embryonic contents drain into the glass. I than take the contents of the glass, position it perfectly, and drain them down my throat in a quick, but practised motion. I than follow (optional) with a good hearty shot of gin. I am now ready to tie some eggs. I wish I could help you here…what few I have tied, are also loose. –Wataugan "burp" Walt

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Use kevlar thread.  Make your wraps tight, one on top of the other.  make several more wraps around the base of the material, between the shank and the hank of yarn. Pete C

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Question:

I’m going to be canoeing in the Allagash this summer (late July/August).  Any thoughts in this group on what the fishing up there is like?  I’ve heard it’s not very good.  Should I even bother?  What should/shouldn’t I take.   Obviously I need to minimize the gear I will be taking. John

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Hi John, I am  Maine Guide and have did the Allagash many times. There certain times of the year when you can catch all the brook trout you want, then there are times you wish you had stayed home. Usually June and the early part of July are the best. If you fly fish bring a Wordens Worry, if you don’t fly fish dig your worms and grubs along the bank. Then there are those excellent trout p[onds all along the way. Good luck!!!! Gene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be canoeing in the Allagash this summer (late July/August). Any thoughts in this group on what the fishing up there is like?  I’ve heard it’s not very good.  Should I even bother?  What should/shouldn’t I take. Obviously I need to minimize the gear I will be taking. John

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Question:

Hi folks: I have noticed on our newsgroups a bunch of spam coming through.  You don’t have to take this.  Subscribe today to the Flyfishing and Flytying Mailing will be automatically subscribed. Come join in on the clean fun of flyfishing and flytying…and no SPAM. Joe

Response:

Hi folks: I have noticed on our newsgroups a bunch of spam coming through.  You don’t have to take this.  Subscribe today to the Flyfishing and Flytying Mailing List.

I dunno, I’ve discovered all kinds of fly and line dressings as well as other scented and flavored lubricants that way.   — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

 I actually have a fablualous  idea for once…….here goes Saddam Hussein  ( sorry about the spell ) has a home page . Since Iraq has no internet service the dope has all of his e-mails hand delievered to him each day from Jordan…….I say we plaster the boards with the site and let the spammers go nuts……. I personally am going to send all spammers with another a major jerk. Here is Saddam’s home page or so I’m told: — Visit my web site:http://www.commonlink.com/~Midwestflytying

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Yes, I found this to be a valid page. I will send first an American flag GIF to him! Gee, I just hope his e-mail supports HTML.

|

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Question:

Hi Ian. I live in Gloucestershire and have fished many stillwaters in England. E.mail me if I can help. If I cant help, then I know a man who can.     Tight lines. Dave Tait. Hi there, I’ve been reading this group for the last week, and wish to find out if there is any UK-based readers of this group.   I have recently taken up fly fishing and wish to converse with more experienced fly-fishers in the UK. Ian Hutcherson

– dave tait

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Hi there, I’ve been reading this group for the last week, and wish to find out if there is any UK-based readers of this group.   I have recently taken up fly fishing and wish to converse with more experienced fly-fishers in the UK. Ian Hutcherson

Response:

Hi there, I’ve been reading this group for the last week, and wish to find out if there is any UK-based readers of this group.   I have recently taken up fly fishing and wish to converse with more experienced fly-fishers in the UK.

Hi Ian, Another from the U.K. here. I live on the edge of the English Lake District and fish the local rivers for salmon and trout and also several of the lakes for trout mainly by boat. If I can help or advise in anyway let me know. John Buchanan Ian Hutcherson

– john buchanan

Response:

Hi there, I’ve been reading this group for the last week, and wish to find out if there is any UK-based readers of this group.   I have recently taken up fly fishing and wish to converse with more experienced fly-fishers in the UK. Ian Hutcherson

Hi Ian I’m certainly not an expert, (the trout prove that every time I go out), but I’ll be happy to help you if I can. I do most of my fishing for trout & grayling on the upper Tweed in the Scottish Borders where I live, and on some of the smaller rivers and lochs in the area. — Hugh Simmons

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Question:

I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the cost?

I’v tried both ans still prefer the manueverability of a tube. Bob McDuffee Network Services Manager, WICHE Office:303.541.0299 Fax:303.541.0291

Response:

Whether something is worth the cost is pretty subjective.  I bought a float tube for about $150 a couple of years ago.  It works just fine.   I’ve never been tempted by U-boats, kick boats, pontoon boats or whatever "this year’s greatest invention of the century" the manufacturers can think of.

Response:

I stepped up to a pontoon boat (the Leigh) after wearing float tubes since the 70s.  I don’t plan to wear a float tube again.  Except for the weight, there’s no comparison in ease,etc.  Also on price.  The basic boat I have runs $325 — not much more than some tubes.  ’Course you can run that up considerably with oars and accessories.  I got the oars but seldom use them on stillwater unless I expect considerable wind. Dick Hubbard

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the cost? I’v tried both ans still prefer the manueverability of a tube. Bob McDuffee Network Services Manager, WICHE Office:303.541.0299 Fax:303.541.0291 Hi I have fished with boats, they both have their advantages.U-BOATS are great for backbacking and small lakes.Were a kick boat is great with oars on large lakes but costs double the price of a u-boat

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Can’t beat the price and portability of a U-boat for small lakes. If going to fish large windy lakes or reservoirs-get a pontoon boat.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the cost? I’v tried both ans still prefer the manueverability of a tube. Bob McDuffee Network Services Manager, WICHE Office:303.541.0299 Fax:303.541.0291 Hi I have fished with boats, they both have their advantages.U-BOATS are great for

backbacking and small lakes.Were a kick boat is great with oars on la I have a tube, a U-boat, and a pontoon boat.  After using the U-boat and pontoon, I think the tube is very awkward and can be dangerous in some situations.  The additional price for the U shape is absolutly worth the additinoal price.  Do not get a regular tube! The difference between a U-boat and a pontoon boat is less imporant, but significant.  The pontoon sits you up higher so you can cast farther and see more fish.  The pontoon is easier to manouver, except in a side-wind.  The pontoon is more stable and more comfortable, and many can accomodate a rowing frame. I have a Caddis tube, a Creek Company U-Boat, and a Super Cat pontoon boat. Tight lines. -Doug (Olympia WA)

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Bruce, I use a SuperCat 60 produced in the Seattle area after having used a float tube for several years.  I love the pontoon boat.  I stay warmer, its easier on my knees, and I have a rowing frame for windy or when-I’m-in-a-hurry conditions.  The only drawback I’ve seen other than slightly increased weight for packing in somewhere is the cost.  If you can afford it, I’d go pontoon boat.  If not, tubes are wonderful anyway.

Response:

Hello, Due to a nice gift certificate I now can comment on two low-end pontoon boats. I have a JW Outfitters Osprey ($300 two years ago) and a new Bucks Bag Colt ($200 now). I highly recommend either the Uboat design or pontoon boats, simply because of the ease of entry/exit.  I consider it a matter both of convenience and Valuable Fishing Time.  It matters because we always seem to wait too long before heading for shore for those necessary short breaks; at these times every second counts (removing smells from waders was another thread). I have been using the JW Osprey for two full seasons and really like it. I have only used the Bucks Colt once but have a few comments on both.  I think both are excellent fishing platforms and well worth the price if you can afford them. The Osprey is bigger and higher, a true pontoon boat as only your legs touch the water.  The Bucks Colt is shorter, stubbier and lower; functionally not much different than a Uboat. The JW Osprey (their lowest cost model) seat is well above the water; it is feasible to go without waders in warm weather, though your butt will get wet from splash.  With the seat out of the water it is possible to go much faster because of less water resistance.  For the same reason it is blown around by the wind more.  It is also more difficult to kick without surface disturbance, which can be very important in the shallows. The seat on the JW is of mesh supported by an aluminum tube framework. Your thighs rest on the forward crosstube and this is uncomfortable at first; I got sore the first few times but have built up muscles there. You have to keep the straps very tight to keep the seat from sagging. Cramps and soreness are pretty common complaints from beginners with any float tube until you get the right muscles developed. Over about 80 – 100 days of use, the seat supports are wearing out and I have had to reinforce the seatback.  The seat doesn’t offer great back support. New models seem to have a more rugged seat but I’m not sure how well it supports. To really enjoy the Osprey it is important to really blow up the tubes and pull the straps tight. The JW Osprey can be taken down completely to the aluminum tube pieces, the seat web and the pontoons, so it can be more compact and individual pieces can be stashed wherever they fit so it is pretty packable in a duffle or suitcase. To assemble it from this stage takes about fifteen minutes including blowing it up. The Bucks has a molded plastic seat that is comfortable for me.  You sit just below the water level so you push a little surface when you paddle, so it’s top speed is more like a Vboat or Uboat. You’d be wet from the waist down without waders.  The rigid seat makes it less compact but it folds into about a 2′ square. It has more support in the lower back area and is very comfortable, even for a beginner, as long as your butt fits the molded seat. The Bucks has hypalon or some covering on the underside of the pontoon tubes, the JW outfitters shows a little abrasion wear on the nylon fabric (more expensive models of JW have hypalon coverings). The Bucks has more pocket space, though stuff in the big pocket in the seat gets wet. It can fold up compact with the tubes together after inflating and with add-on strappsd can be packed.  Both are of similar weight – around 10-15 lbs. The same straps can be used to carry the JW, but it is still about five feet wide  (JW has a "backpacker" model better for this). The only nuisance I found with the Bucks Colt was a lack of velcro tiedowns to secure the rod while changing flies, smoking etc.  I can easily add some.  And no stable deck on which to rest a beer – I set it in a pocket and the zipper holds it. If budget is your main concern, get any float tube and get started as it is an enjoyable way to fish, but if you can afford to get a pontoon boat. Mark Vinsel couch potato no, floating tuber yes Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

Response:

I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the cost?

I have had a kick boat called a Waterwagon for about 15 years, and consider it ideal for flyfishing in lakes and ponds.  It is higher off the water than a float tube, and although I haven’t used any of the inflatable pontoon style kick boats, this seems like a superior design because of its rigidity, portability, and so on.  I don’t know if the WaterWagon company is still in business, but there are similar styles out there.  One was shown in a photo in this year’s magazine, FFing for Bass and Panfish. The waterwagon is a flat styrofoam "boat" about, 3×5′ and 6" thick, shaped like this:                           —        –                                            |  |      |  |                                            |  |      |  |        It is reinforced with aluminum pipe |    —–   | and the pipe reinforcing     is exposed in |      x     | front at the open end of the "U".  You sit |            | at the "x" with your flippered feet hanging       |            | in the water from about mid-shin  down.  Since only your|            | feet are in don’t wear waders in water down to about 55.  It weighs about 20 lbs., and is easy to carry over your shoulder, leaving the other hand free for rod and flippers.  It easily carries a small cooler, a second rod, etc., fits in the back of a pick up or is easy to car-top.      It is highly maneuverable, leaves both hands free to handle line and rod, keeps you up high out of the water so drooping backcasts are not a problem, and has nothing to catch your loose line on.  With good fins it is reasonably fast (a slow walking speed), and it is very stable.  I commonly cross a 300 yard arm of a local lake on it, and in an afternoon will often fish about a mile of shoreline, cross over and fish a mile or so back.      Any bass over about 3 lbs. will tow you around a bit.  Overall, I think it’s the best of all possible boats for lake and pond fishing!  It’s better that a bass boat with a trolling motor, because it leaves your hands completely free and still doesn’t put a bunch of stuff on the floor to tangle your line on.  It’s even better that having a partner paddle you in a canoe, because you are in complete control of how far or close to the bank you want to be. Mine cost around $200 10-12 years ago, and I wouldn’t bat hesitate spending 2 or 3 times that amount to replace it, since there is nothing that I know that compares to it for fishing convenience. The only drawbacks are that you move backwards and a right handed FFer will normally be most comfortable moving parallel to a shoreline fishing the left hand bank.  I spent a very frustating 10 minutes going in circles when I started using it, but got accustomed to manuvering it with my feet on the first trip and never thought about it since.   — University of Illinois at Springfield

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: I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for : Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. : I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the : additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with : the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the : cost? I have been using a kick boat for a few years now and I really like it.   They are better in a few ways.  You can go in shallower water.  You get less cold because you are not IN the water as much.  The casting platform is higher off the water so casting is a bit easier. I’d love to have one of the new commercial kick boats, they look REALLY nice! — Bruce Conner

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I am about ready to purchase a float tube but have recently seen adds for Pontoon Kick Boats.  Now I am really confused with so many options. I have tried a float tube and like it.  Is a kick boat really worth the additional cost or should I stay with the basics?  If I were to go with the kick boat, which model would give me the best performance for the cost?

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