Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Flies » To clinch or not to clinch?

To clinch or not to clinch?

Question:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment, I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend. I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening. Willi

Arrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggguuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhh !!!!  You are kNot-Perfect!

Response:

I break off far more fish  (and bushes and trees) on my tippet to leader knot than I do at the hook eye knot (improved clinch for me). Of course, I am quite lazy and use a double surgeons knot instead of a blood knot for my tippet/leader connection, which probably explains that. Actually breaking off on anything is fairly rare with the stronger mono now in existence. The stuff I used  30 years ago was another matter. G.Cleveland – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

"william hughes" wrote… Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line.

All the info that everyone has given you about knots will serve you well.. apply it. One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.   Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

DON’T PULL ON THE TAG END!!! I think lubrication is overrated.

I believe these two lines are in the running for my favorite ROFF quotes of 2002. Of course the year is still young. : ) -eddie http://www.guidetracker.com Go Fish…

Response:

"william hughes" wrote… Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.

Yep. What I do is buy 7.5′ 3X tapered leaders then use tippet material to build leaders anywhere from 8.5′ to 15′. Ernie Harrison’s little red thingy is good for this. What in the hell ever happened to Ernie ? Did he get his knickers in a twist over that "rod loading" bullshit ? — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I use the improved clinch on smaller flies, but I find that it tends to slip on larger hooks.   I like the Trilene knot for big stuff.  My rule of thumb is if the hook eye is big enough to get the line through it twice, I use the trilene knot, otherwise I use the improved clinch knot. Kevin

I use neither and I certainly stopped using the clinch knot many, many, many years ago.  I have never used a knot that has cost me more lost fish than the damned clinch knot.  It is a stupid knot, a lazy knot, and only uneducated knot makers use it. I suppose with fishing LINES your rule of thumb would surfice but when it comes to dry flies and the hooks used in fly fishing, the amount of steel and drag used has a better scientific result determined by fifty years of testing by this author and it is this.  When a TIPPET can be thraded through the eye of the hook THREE TIMES, you have established the proper tippet diameter for that hook.  It is not correct to use an example that states, if your tippet material is .010 diameter it should slip through the eye of a .030 diameter hook.  However; if your tippet will squeeze through three times it works just fine.  That is three strands in a triangle configuration. There are physics involved that determine why this works but I’m not up to explaining it right now.  It simply works Kevin and it works wonderfully. I use ONE KNOT on all my flies and that is the Duncan Loop or Uni-Knot. I use FIVE turns through the loop and I snug the knot up to the tippet line without drawing the knot TO THE EYE OF THE HOOK.  When I put the Uni-Knot up to the eye, I leave a sixteenth of an inch of slack because I don’t wish to bottom the knot against the eye.  This way, my flies have movement as does my nymphs but especially my nymphs.   I have never, never lost a fish due to the 100% Uni-knot.  It has never come undone, it has never fail me in any way, shape or form. This IS the one knot any fly fisherman can stake their faith in any place on this planet.  This and the blood knot. Once a fish is hooked, the strike and weight of the fish draws the Uni-knot down to the eye of the hook for battle.   George Gehrke

Response:

One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.

Especially in deeper or bigger water, I usually use a long leader when nymphing. I especially like to use a very long tippet. The thin tippet sinks much more readilly than the heavier sections of the leader and allows for easier strike detection and better control. Willi

Response:

There are physics involved that determine why this works but I’m not up to explaining it right now.  

Well, color me surprised… Kevin — Check out the Pike Clave Website: <http://www.misu.nodak.edu/~vang/PikeClave/

Response:

most of the tests I’ve seen on the clinch report 85 to 90% usually towatrds the higher number. The improved gets the strength up to about 95%. A stronger knot is the trilene. With any knot make sure you use the correct number of turns for the strength of tippet material. I suggest you consult a book or article by Lefty Kreh as I’ve found what he writes about knots to be the most reliable. RalphH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

Make sure your tippet material is in good shape. It deteriorates with age, especially if it’s exposed to sunlight.

        now *that’s* the truth.  and probably the primary reason for the failure of *any* knot. your friend in the old north state wayno

Response:

I use ONE KNOT on all my flies and that is the Duncan Loop or Uni-Knot.

        how neat.  i use only one knot, myself.  the improved clinch. well, just goes to show that two great fishermen can differ—right, george? I have never, never lost a fish due to the 100% Uni-knot.  It has never come undone, it has never fail me in any way, shape or form. This IS the one knot any fly fisherman can stake their faith in any place on this planet.  This and the blood knot.

        how telling.  you know what one half of a blood knot is, don’t you, george?  that’s right:  an improved clinch.         i just knew we’d find a common ground. wayno

Response:

I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Most of the guides I’ve hired (especially the ones who are aggressive about changing flies) use the regular clinch knot. Whether it’s as strong as the improved clinch knot I don’t know, but it’s sure easier for me to tie, especially with fine tippets. If I’m changing flies a lot I use it. DON’T PULL ON THE TAG END!!! I think lubrication is overrated. If you tighten the knot slowly and carefully lubrication is unnecessary, IMHO. Make sure your tippet material is in good shape. It deteriorates with age, especially if it’s exposed to sunlight. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

I use the improved clinch on smaller flies, but I find that it tends to slip on larger hooks.   I like the Trilene knot for big stuff.  My rule of thumb is if the hook eye is big enough to get the line through it twice, I use the trilene knot, otherwise I use the improved clinch knot. Kevin — Check out the Pike Clave Website: <http://www.misu.nodak.edu/~vang/PikeClave/

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to.

That is odd.  A few quick experiments should tell you if you’re tying them that weak. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie.

Hmm, I find it as easy, if not easier, to tie.

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,   I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening. Willi

Response:

I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening.

Same here…..five turns, well lubricated. Additional turns, or the "improvement" of pulling the tag end through the loop, seem to me to make the knot harder to tighten properly and more likely to unravel. The key is to make sure the knot is tight. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved

I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot.   Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

The Uni is quick and easy to tie – it you add one step.  Assuming you’re right handed, normally one threads the tippet into the eye of the hook and leaves about 3" of a tag.  Hold the eye of the hook, the tippet and the tag with the left thumb and forefinger.  Now wrap the tippet around your left index finger a couple of times.  This keeps the short length of tippet above the eye nice and taut, making it easier to form and thread the loop to finish the knot. HTH Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

I agree with Dave et al…lubricating the knot is the key issue.  I don’t lose many trout because of knot problems. Eugene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot. Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

There are two things to keep in mind when tying the clinch knot.  1) lubricate it. 2) tighten it slowly.  Thightening (a new word?) the knot quickly will cause heat to build up in the mono and weaken the tippet. Chris Richer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot. Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

William, I count being knot-challenged amongst my various and sundry handicaps. Some days I just can’t seem to make a freaking clinch knot work, improved or otherwise. If the ratio of tippet diameter vs. hook-eye diameter allows, I always use a Palomar knot. This is a very simple knot to learn and is very strong. I don’t remember this knot ever failing me. For smaller flies, you (and I!) had better learn to tie the clinch. I have noticed a marked improvement in clinch knotting since I started using my forceps as a tying tool, I’m not sure why. Danl

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles.

William, For some time, I used the improved clinch knot. When I started getting into bigger fish, it seemed too many were breaking me off. I mentioned this to my local friendly flyshop owner one day and he told me he uses the regular clinch knot. He explained that the improved clinch is a stronger knot when tied properly, but many times during tying it can get twisted, and when it does, it becomes much weaker. So since that day, I’ve been happily using the standard clinch. The number of bigger fish breaking me off has been greatly reduced! As others have said, lubricate well and tighten slowly. After trimming the tag-end, always test the knot by gently pulling on the fly and tippet. Sometimes it looks like you’ve tied it correctly, but a pull will reveal a bad knot and the fly will come off the tippet. And it’s much better to find a bad knot by your pulling than by a trout’s! And yes, I’ve learned this tip the hard way! Fish on, my friend. Danny McMillin — Danny McMillin — Remove XX from email address to reduce spam.

Response:

There are two things to keep in mind when tying the clinch knot.  1) lubricate it. 2) tighten it slowly.  …

I would add a third, tighten by pulling the line end away from the eye and not by pulling on the tag end. I switched from an improved clinch to a clinch several years ago based on something I read here in ROFF. Works for me. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

All knot failures I’ve had with the improved Cinch have been do to my stupidity in tying the knot, not the design of the knot. Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rods » Reel Seat

Reel Seat

Question:

I have tried drilling them out but they always want to split on me so I would build up the blank with masking tape or cork…  Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

Okay gentleman, Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his box daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go with the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it all together with the epoxy. Thanks for the help. Mike Wilson

Response:

Mike,    I have some reel seats I installed twenty years ago using masking tape and they are in fine condition.  Cork grips are a different matter.  I ream them to fit the rod taper exactly, using a tapered dowel covered with coarse sandpaper. Ernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay gentleman, Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his box daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go with the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it all together with the epoxy. Thanks for the help. Mike Wilson

Response:

Right.  Sorry about that. — — – Lou Lampe / Luis de Tucson, engineer retired. There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.

No – he said his rod blank is larger in diameter than *one* seat he looked at, and smaller than the *other*, and he wanted to know whether it was better to drill out the smaller one, or build up the blank to fit the larger one. And I think he got the best answer – which is the same way my dad built his (and my) rods: use masking tape to build up the blank in three spots, then cram the works with epoxy… /daytripper

Response:

0] : Mike, :    I have some reel seats I installed twenty years ago using masking tape : and they are in fine condition.  Cork grips are a different matter.  I ream : them to fit the rod taper exactly, using a tapered dowel covered with coarse : sandpaper. : Ernie

: Okay gentleman, : : Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his : box : daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never : consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have : built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go : with : the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it : all : together with the epoxy. : : Thanks for the help. : : Mike Wilson I have done several rods by building up the rod blank with multiple layers of heat shrink tubing so that it’s a slide fit into the seat. Then I epoxy the whole thing. I have had no problems with this so far. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Mike, REC makes the finest machined reel seats on the market. You have a premium blank that will last you for years. I would consider checking their catalog and if you see something suitable call ‘em with all the FACTS. I am sure they would bore out a wood insert for you and answer any/all questions. Their reel seats are expensive but you get what you pay for – they’ll have some beautiful nickel silver hardware that will balance perfectly with your primo blank. Now the other alternative is to buy a wood insert and have a machinist or pro rod builder bore it out so it fits over your blank. Your favorite fly shop should have access to a pro rod builder who does rod repairs – they can’t charge that much to bore out a wood insert.                          10# fred —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.

No – he said his rod blank is larger in diameter than *one* seat he looked at, and smaller than the *other*, and he wanted to know whether it was better to drill out the smaller one, or build up the blank to fit the larger one. And I think he got the best answer – which is the same way my dad built his (and my) rods: use masking tape to build up the blank in three spots, then cram the works with epoxy… /daytripper

Response:

Hi Mike, It depends on what tools you have available to you.  The best way is to drill out the .312 insert…in order to do a first rate job of that you need a lathe or mill or at least a drill press.  The best way is to chuck it in a lathe and use a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock with the desired drill size. A second choice would be to chuck a .310-.312 drill rod into a drill press or mill, extend the quill (with machinery turned off) so that the rod is well into the existing hole in the insert and clamp the insert in place, retract the quill and using the desired size drill bit, drill out the insert. Assuming you only have simple tools (hand tools) available to you, I’d go with the larger holed insert and make a cork or Delrin arbor with a hand drill.  (Slip the cork or Delrin over a tight fitting bolt, add a washer and nut to hold things tight, and insert the bolt into a hand drill.  Turn on, lock in the "on" position, use a file or sandpaper to shape, i.e., "poor man’s lathe" style.  If you use a file, for safety’s sake, do it left handed, with the file on top of the material, your body toward the right side and with the file’s tang inserted into a handle.) Good luck, George

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I remember drilling out a reel seat once.  Seemed like a good idea at the time.  That’s one mistake I’ll never make again.  It was a nice reel seat too!  TOO BAD. — Bill Endicott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on.

Ahhhh, nice blank. I’ve been told it’s best never to drill out a reel seat. I use masking tape to build up a tight fit. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I use masking tape to build up a tight fit.

Ditto for me.   I leave space between the tape "rings" to allow the seat epoxy to adhere directly to the blank. Joe F.

Response:

Best to avoid any drilling etc on pre-fabricated reel-seats. Use masking tape to build up the necessary blank diameter over the length of the seat, leave a space between each wrapping of tape, and coat the whole lot , including the spaces, well with epoxy before mounting the seat. The seat should slide over the "rings" of tape fairly easily. Make sure you use the same number of wraps for each "ring" and wrap tightly to ensure concentricity etc.  Before mounting the seat, add one last wrap of tape before applying the epoxy, the epoxy lubricates the tape to the extent that a very tight fit is still possible to achieve. Alternatively, if the wall thickness of the reel seat is sufficient, it may be possible to modify it without too many problems, but this is normally done on a lathe, and not by drilling.  Drilling may split the seat unless done very accurately and slowly with a very sharp drill. It may also be possible with a good sharp round file, but this depends on the material, and is quite difficult to do accurately. The masking tape method is very reliable usually, and is safer than messing about with the seats. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

You can buy graphite arbors that you can fit to the seat and the rod blank.  If you can’t get one the right size (try anglers workshop, mudhole, or dale clemens) then you can build one with masking tape, fiberglass, or cork and use a two part epoxy putty to hold it in.  The putty will add weight so you need to test the balance of such a light rod.Drilling out the seat will cause weakness without adding a significant advantage in weight reduction. Mike Keyes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

As the others have, go for the masking tape to build up the blank. Three rings should do it, and epoxy over the surface of the tape and between the rings. Oddly enough I have a .jpg I could send you if you like? Tim Lysyk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I use masking tape to build up a tight fit. Ditto for me.   I leave space between the tape "rings" to allow the seat epoxy to adhere directly to the blank. Joe F.

Double ditto with the added benefit that the masking tape build up makes it easier to remove the seat should it ever become necessary. I’ve taken apart two factory rod reel seats and both had been built up with masking tape. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.  I checked two of my catalogs quickly and found many reel seats in almost any diameter you could want and you do want the reel seat to be slightly larger than the rod.  Look in: http://www.anglersworkshop.com http://www.jansnetcraft.com or any of the others previously mentioned.  The cork handle will have to be filed out to fit the blank and of course the handle must work with the reel seat.      May I also commend to you the detailed instructions at:  http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ then click on For Beginners and then click on Rod Building.  It helped me a lot.  You can even have it in English or Spanish.  He shows how to build up the blank with tape and fill with epoxy.  Do not use five minute epoxy because you will need a LOT more time than that.  Rod Builder’s Epoxy will be flexible and waterproof and will stick to all the materials involved, i.e. epoxy, varnish, graphite, wood, cork and nickel-silver or neoprene winding checks.      It is sometimes mentioned that you should break the gloss on the blank varnish (if it is varnished) so the epoxy can grab it.  I’m not sure that it is necessary on a light fly rod but I do it anyway.    If you haven’t done this before you may want to do as I did.  I put together a less expensive rod for practice and I was really glad that I did.  I learned on it and I have a backup rod, same line weight.  It looks reasonable but not as good as later rods.   Before you start, do you understand that rod building can be as addictive as fly tying and fly fishing, — — – Lou Lampe / Luis de Tucson, engineer retired.

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » thawing feet

thawing feet

Question:

as my abused feet thaw, i thought i’d share a trip report with ya’ll. jeff arrived at the predetermined time, and i was damn near ready. we eventually loaded my gear in the truck and made our way off to the elk. we stopped at a convenience store for ice but it really wasn’t needed— we could have just as well laid the beer out in the truck bed and it would have been properly chilled upon our return. we walked the snow packed trail down and reached our favorite put-in spot. as we had rigged up at the truck, we were ready to fish. aberrantly, i cockily asked jeff if he wanted to see a fish out of the first hole. i dropped my bhhe into the water..and lordy…a rainbow made me look like a laughing prophet. jeff just shook his head and laughed. i knew we were in for one hell of a special day. nymphing in the blue cold of winter is wonderful. the air is crisp and fresh, the river is changed, yet gorgeous in it’s white blanket. i’d finish this story for ya’ll…but sweet smells are wafting down here from marie’s cooking and i’m starved… just let it be known that it really doesn’t get any better than to be astream with a good friend, no matter how friggin cold it is! waldo..prince of pilsner

Response:

<good report snipped Nice sounding report Walt.  One time fishing the Upper Provo, my friend was not having any luck. I asked to see his rig.  He was using a gold ribbed hare’s ear.  I laid a cast using his fly rod in some ripples just before a pool and hooked up to a nice 12" rainbow.  Handed the rod back to him and told him, seems to be working fine.  It was pure luck and great timing on my part. bc. — Angling may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt — Izaak Walton

Response:

Blackcat writes: Nice sounding report Walt.  One time fishing the Upper Provo, my friend was not having any luck. I asked to see his rig.  He was using a gold ribbed hare’s ear.  I laid a cast using his fly rod in some ripples just before a pool and hooked up to a nice 12" rainbow.  Handed the rod back to him and told him, seems to be working fine.  It was pure luck and great timing on my part. bc.

LOL.  That has happened to all of us, I belief.  The best one that happened to me concerned a registered Maine Guide.  He was "trying out" a new 3 weight he had just made.  I sat for about 10 minutes watching him cast a size 20 emerger into a particular pool.  He asked me to try the rod.  I made several false casts, sort of getting the feel of things.  When I presented the fly, it must have landed right in front of a 17 inch land locked salmon, for he came up and slashed at the fly.  The rest is a pleasant memory.  When I released the fish, I told him it not only cast well, but landed well too.  <g Dave L.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Trout Fly Fishing » Help! Beginning Fisherman

Help! Beginning Fisherman

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have never fished before except once at a trout farm where you drop in a line and the fish attack it. I go canoeing alot on a local reservoir and I’d like to get started fishing it. The lake has bass, trout, walleye, crappie and some others. I just got a Shimano spinning combo but I dont know how to get line on the spool or exactly how the spinning reel works. Any help/advice about spinning rods and fishing in general will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 p[0]       Have a look at the Feild and Stream Web site they have articles on filling your reel and properly setting the drag on you spinning reel as well as the proper way to use the rod to fight the fish. You can find them at http://www.fieldandstream.com/     You might also want to try having a look at the In-Fisherman Web site. They have several of the articles on line and the search engine will help you find techniques for any of the fish you are after. Their URL is http://www.in-fisherman.com     Finally you can try the web site for many of the popular tackle companies. You can find a list of many of them at http://www.acc.umu.se/~widmark/lwmanufa.html     Good luck hope this helps some Maurice. Regards,   —

Response:

I have never fished before except once at a trout farm where you drop in a line and the fish attack it. I go canoeing alot on a local reservoir and I’d like to get started fishing it. The lake has bass, trout, walleye, crappie and some others. I just got a Shimano spinning combo but I dont know how to get line on the spool or exactly how the spinning reel works. Any help/advice about spinning rods and fishing in general will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Response:

I just got a Shimano spinning combo but I dont know how to get line on the spool or exactly how the spinning reel works. Any help/advice about spinning rods and fishing in general will be greatly appreciated.

Advise you to take your reel to your local bait shop or sporting goods store. They will fill your reel usually for 2 or 3

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Bastardiana

Bastardiana

Question:

I wish you gents had FISH there in North Carolina.  I mean, some BIG fish.  14 – 20 inch rainbows and/or browns.

Could send one up here and I will try it on some 23" cutts I know of :)  Or maybe some big rainbows and browns on a few other pieces of water I know. Maybe I should have just broken down and bought a bloody bastard for myself…….By the sounds of it I should have.   Nice report Walt.  I was going to post a congratulations to you on your new tool and to George on what appears to be a job well done, but it didn’t sound right.  I’ll drink a cold one to your health and happiness and pray that I don’t catch minnows tomorrow. Warren

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wish you gents had FISH there in North Carolina.  I mean, some BIG fish.  14 – 20 inch rainbows and/or browns. Could send one up here and I will try it on some 23" cutts I know of :)  Or maybe some big rainbows and browns on a few other pieces of water I know. Maybe I should have just broken down and bought a bloody bastard for myself…….By the sounds of it I should have. Nice report Walt.  I was going to post a congratulations to you on your new tool and to George on what appears to be a job well done, but it didn’t sound right.  I’ll drink a cold one to your health and happiness and pray that I don’t catch minnows tomorrow. Warren

a small fortune and one doesn’t need to be making mistakes.  They don’t even come fitted, which is a mind blower.  But wrapping guides all night and fitting hardware on these Bamboo Beauties is a lot of work.  I don’t mind as long as I have people such as yourself interested in the future.  I should send you one just to try but I have no spare Bastards.  They’re all taken.  Can you use a 7.5′ 4 Wt Warren?  I’m working on one tonight to send to MAINE!  Do you hear that Maine?!  The Brown Truck cometh sooneth! — Mr. G.   ‘all’s fair with fur or feather’ http://www.gink.com http://www.rodbuilding.com http://www.xink.com 509-243-4100 or 5500

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Clave confession

Clave confession

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A.P.Dryden schrieb in Nachricht … Okay, I’ll fess up, too. I suck at drinking The Famous Grouse. I’m self-taught, from books. Never had a drinking lesson. :-O -<=== (me, drinking straight from the bottle of life) — A.P. Dryden A Loyal Explorer of The Famous Grouse Share a Wee Dram and a Tall Tale at http://www.famousgrouse.com/explorers Considering my well known and widely praised lyrical laudations of your esteemed beverage, and following a whim, basically engendered by being referred to as a salon fixture, failed  poet and a dumb popcorn fuelled farting ox, which caused me to imbibe freely of the aforementioned excellent beverage, probably due to fear of instant withering, and as a form of preventive medication, I had occasion to wander into your hallowed halls and was shocked to discover a flagrant case of discrimination, as opposed to a fragrant case of whiskey. In order to alleviate the almost fatal shock resulting from this discovery of unquieting enormity, I was obliged to partake of a further half bottle in order to steady my shattered faith in humankind, and restore my constitution and strengthen my unwavering resolve to continue my explorations. How is it sir that only colonials are admitted to your illustrious ranks, by whose decree is one of the highest possible honours ever to be bestowed on a grateful and undeserving multitude only available to members of a formal penal colony ? That juveniles may not be admitted to the glorious ranks is clear, and requires no further enlightenment, but I sir am an Englishman ! I beg you to reconsider your decision, as otherwise I will be forced to send her most regal majesties official diapproval, a tanker load of freeze dried tea,  and an expeditionary force to convince you of our basically peaceful intentions. We ask, nay sir we demand ! that these unjust and unecessarily cruel discriminations cease forthwith, otherwise sir the consequences may be grave indeed, and might well otherwise result in many wantonly resorting to the uncontrolled use of port and brandy. Yours sincerely Michael A.B.Connor  Class of ROFF 99 ( failed ).

   Huh! (didn’t talk till 6, pointen worked jest fine)                                                                John Popp                                                           in Sanford Fl.

Response:

—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– While in non-compliance with local decency ordinances the world over, We ask, nay sir we demand ! that these unjust and unecessarily cruel discriminations cease forthwith, otherwise sir the consequences may be grave indeed, and might well otherwise result in many wantonly resorting to the uncontrolled use of port and brandy.

Truly the act of a desperate man. My gawd, I’ve got scotch like nobody’s business, but none of it’s the bird. Anything more expensive than Pete Dawson’s messes me up the morning after. Want some? —–BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE—– Version: 2.6.2 iQEVAwUBNrB40ZdiUzdLFqlpAQEtvgf/RxrzL00kA35+K1jREtq+eN3IsCfj/EtD Z/F5e5+LjTkNmcMx/ztVxWqlmh7Eiw+yTbeeD1BOXaoFwlqRag8vbAUfHcmXT87A q6PTzOfrU20si/S8sJlYPmwr60mZrfwvlcrMTi5n97qLneppSQrG/lF2dPm0VL3I Bjh4TA4iS62MMx7ouBVWnGE/QQso1anrwSu33JfVHlKGfLQyTiGWM94r2SkOEg2z E1IrQFJCHWpL2cO49udHzsNc55+EVRWqGJyf/VNnMZpT9kxjw+Bk63+DW9EhfPMm aYifNpyGpHzfBQ55/1e9nNO37BeOvSwq0dh/rzzubp0jVg7/xnO0FA== =T2BU —–END PGP SIGNATURE—– Mike S. Medintz, http://www.grapevine.net/~medintz "I’m a liberal conservative. I believe in keeping things the way that  they should have been in the first place." -anon.

Response:

Mike Medintz: <<—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– While in non-compliance with local decency ordinances the world over, We ask, nay sir we demand ! that these unjust and unecessarily cruel discriminations cease forthwith, otherwise sir the consequences may be grave indeed, and might well otherwise result in many wantonly resorting to the uncontrolled use of port and brandy.

Truly the act of a desperate man. My gawd, I’ve got scotch like nobody’s business, but none of it’s the bird. Anything more expensive than Pete Dawson’s messes me up the morning after. Want some? —–BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE—– Version: 2.6.2 iQEVAwUBNrB40ZdiUzdLFqlpAQEtvgf/RxrzL00kA35+K1jREtq+eN3IsCfj/EtD Z/F5e5+LjTkNmcMx/ztVxWqlmh7Eiw+yTbeeD1BOXaoFwlqRag8vbAUfHcmXT87A q6PTzOfrU20si/S8sJlYPmwr60mZrfwvlcrMTi5n97qLneppSQrG/lF2dPm0VL3I Bjh4TA4iS62MMx7ouBVWnGE/QQso1anrwSu33JfVHlKGfLQyTiGWM94r2SkOEg2z E1IrQFJCHWpL2cO49udHzsNc55+EVRWqGJyf/VNnMZpT9kxjw+Bk63+DW9EhfPMm aYifNpyGpHzfBQ55/1e9nNO37BeOvSwq0dh/rzzubp0jVg7/xnO0FA== =T2BU —–END PGP SIGNATURE—– Mike S. Medintz, http://www.grapevine.net/~medintz "I’m a liberal conservative. I believe in keeping things the way that  they should have been in the first place." -anon. Mike, just curious, but what the hell is all the stuff between "Begin PGP Signature"  and "End PGP Signature"?  And, why is it there? Dave LaCourse

Response:

Okay, I’ll fess up, too. I suck at drinking The Famous Grouse. I’m self-taught, from books. Never had a drinking lesson. :-O -<=== (me, drinking straight from the bottle of life)

A.P., that’s what we need to really get ROFF going, and further irritate those who are complaining about content – drinking lessons. Based on your vast experience, I think you should start with a post or two about techniques for attacking the famous grouse. Mark Faulkner

Response:

A.P.Dryden schrieb in Nachricht … Okay, I’ll fess up, too. I suck at drinking The Famous Grouse. I’m self-taught, from books. Never had a drinking lesson. :-O -<=== (me, drinking straight from the bottle of life) — A.P. Dryden A Loyal Explorer of The Famous Grouse Share a Wee Dram and a Tall Tale at http://www.famousgrouse.com/explorers

Considering my well known and widely praised lyrical laudations of your esteemed beverage, and following a whim, basically engendered by being referred to as a salon fixture, failed  poet and a dumb popcorn fuelled farting ox, which caused me to imbibe freely of the aforementioned excellent beverage, probably due to fear of instant withering, and as a form of preventive medication, I had occasion to wander into your hallowed halls and was shocked to discover a flagrant case of discrimination, as opposed to a fragrant case of whiskey. In order to alleviate the almost fatal shock resulting from this discovery of unquieting enormity, I was obliged to partake of a further half bottle in order to steady my shattered faith in humankind, and restore my constitution and strengthen my unwavering resolve to continue my explorations. How is it sir that only colonials are admitted to your illustrious ranks, by whose decree is one of the highest possible honours ever to be bestowed on a grateful and undeserving multitude only available to members of a formal penal colony ? That juveniles may not be admitted to the glorious ranks is clear, and requires no further enlightenment, but I sir am an Englishman ! I beg you to reconsider your decision, as otherwise I will be forced to send her most regal majesties official diapproval, a tanker load of freeze dried tea,  and an expeditionary force to convince you of our basically peaceful intentions. We ask, nay sir we demand ! that these unjust and unecessarily cruel discriminations cease forthwith, otherwise sir the consequences may be grave indeed, and might well otherwise result in many wantonly resorting to the uncontrolled use of port and brandy. Yours sincerely Michael A.B.Connor  Class of ROFF 99 ( failed ).

Response:

(Frogspritz) writes: Based on your vast experience, I think you should start with a post or two about techniques for attacking the famous grouse.

I’ll start. How to serve Famous Grouse. 1. Open Bottle 2. Get appropriate glass. 3. Pour Famous Grouse down the sink. 4. Pour into the glass an appropiate single malt scotch. 5. Enjoy! Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A.P.Dryden schrieb in Nachricht … Okay, I’ll fess up, too. I suck at drinking The Famous Grouse. I’m self-taught, from books. Never had a drinking lesson. :-O -<=== (me, drinking straight from the bottle of life) — A.P. Dryden A Loyal Explorer of The Famous Grouse Share a Wee Dram and a Tall Tale at http://www.famousgrouse.com/explorers Considering my well known and widely praised lyrical laudations of your esteemed beverage, and following a whim, basically engendered by being referred to as a salon fixture, failed  poet and a dumb popcorn fuelled farting ox, which caused me to imbibe freely of the aforementioned excellent beverage, probably due to fear of instant withering, and as a form of preventive medication, I had occasion to wander into your hallowed halls Yours sincerely

(snip of hilarious stuff) Michael A.B.Connor  Class of ROFF 99 ( failed ).

        wonderfully done, michael!         damn near enough to turn you into an anglophile, isn’t it, taffy ol friend? wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I figure now is the time to fess up, before you all meet me in NC. Besides the fact that i’m the youngest buck in the group, I suck at flyfishing. I’m self taught, from books. Never had a casting lesson, tying lesson, or any other type of lesson. So you guys leave me alone when I start snagging your clothes and tying masturful blobs of dubbing! Tim Apple P.S. I am very proficient at drinking the Famouse Grouse though.

Response:

I figure now is the time to fess up, before you all meet me in NC. Besides the fact that i’m the youngest buck in the group, I suck at flyfishing. I’m self taught, from books. Never had a casting lesson, tying lesson, or any other type of lesson. So you guys leave me alone when I start snagging your clothes and tying masturful blobs of dubbing! Tim Apple P.S. I am very proficient at drinking the Famouse Grouse though.

Tim, you actually believe we know how to fish? hell wayno’s gonna be cryin in his cabin most of the time mumbling "how did waldo sink that 30′ putt" between gulps of vodka. i’m gonna be runnin to the bank to deposit my winnings and george is gonna be screamin from his cabin "c’mon guys let me out" after we spike his door. some other nameless person will be tending to his animal husbandry. matt will be hungover, won’t be able to fish at all. tom will be playing with his loran equipment. mark will be chasing his southern dreams and wayne will be chasing other game. let’s see, that leaves big al and charlie…. imnsho, probaly damn good fishing pardners fer ya. apologies for any ruffled feathers and especially if i inadvertantly left someone out. –Wataugan "let the clave begin" Walt

Response:

What the hell was that! Speak American, damn it! TWL         Big Al – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I figure now is the time to fess up, before you all meet me in NC. Besides the fact that i’m the youngest buck in the group, I suck at flyfishing. I’m self taught, from books. Never had a casting lesson, tying lesson, or any other type of lesson. So you guys leave me alone when I start snagging your clothes and tying masturful blobs of dubbing! Tim Apple P.S. I am very proficient at drinking the Famouse Grouse though. Tim, you actually believe we know how to fish? hell wayno’s gonna be cryin in his cabin most of the time mumbling "how did waldo sink that 30′ putt" between gulps of vodka. i’m gonna be runnin to the bank to deposit my winnings and george is gonna be screamin from his cabin "c’mon guys let me out" after we spike his door. some other nameless person will be tending to his animal husbandry. matt will be hungover, won’t be able to fish at all. tom will be playing with his loran equipment. mark will be chasing his southern dreams and wayne will be chasing other game. let’s see, that leaves big al and charlie…. imnsho, probaly damn good fishing pardners fer ya. apologies for any ruffled feathers and especially if i inadvertantly left someone out. –Wataugan "let the clave begin" Walt

Response:

I figure now is the time to fess up, before you all meet me in NC. Besides the fact that i’m the youngest buck in the group, I suck at flyfishing. I’m self taught, from books. Never had a casting lesson, tying lesson, or any other type of lesson. So you guys leave me alone when I start snagging your clothes and tying masturful blobs of dubbing! Tim Apple P.S. I am very proficient at drinking the Famouse Grouse though.

*twitch!* ignore. *twitch, twitch* ignore I’m not biting! This monster is drifting down stream. the G fish —

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Trout Fly Fishing » Anyone catching fish in Florida

Anyone catching fish in Florida

Question:

Hi, I’m a relative new comer to both fly fishing and Florida.  Having said that, I’ve fished the no motor zone at Cape Canaveral twice in the last few days and only caught a few small spotted sea trout. Anyone having any better luck?  Is it me, the screwy weather or a combination? Mind you, I’m not really complaining.  You know what they say about a bad day fishing…. :-) David

Response:

See Action Spotter in January Florida Sportsman.  Somebody’s been catching fish on flyrod there recently.   Good Luck.

Response:

Hi, I’m a relative new comer to both fly fishing and Florida.  Having said that, I’ve fished the no motor zone at Cape Canaveral twice in the last few days and only caught a few small spotted sea trout. Anyone having any better luck?  Is it me, the screwy weather or a combination? Mind you, I’m not really complaining.  You know what they say about a bad day fishing…. :-) David

   Been off the water a bit but the same goes for fresh water. I got out this last week a couple of hrs. Weather was cool so the gators has took to the mud, all I caught were about a dozen bity bream and 1 decent war mouth. Seems it’s kinda off on the east central but I understand the gulf is hot.                                                              John Popp                                                           in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Well, I can only tell you of my experiences over on the west coast, but the fish (Snook, Redfish & Trout) are not in their usual Fall/Winter haunts. Since it is not spring and the Gulf waters here are warmer than they should be, the fish are still on the flats, hungry as ever, but they seem scattered as opposed to the same weather/water conditions in the late spring/summer. I’ve had to cover a lot of water to find them. Good Luck — Tight Lines.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Need Goretex information

Need Goretex information

Question:

: Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top : of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the : rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again : (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and : I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a : really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. :   : Fred Rickson I had a similar experience with some Gortex Atlantis raingear I bought about 20 years ago.  It never was water resistent let alone water proof.  I have several other later pieces of Gortex gear which are much better. :   :   — Isaac(Ike) B. Wilder That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Response:

Well, my goretex waders work. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. Fred Rickson

Response:

Well, my goretex waders work. Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. Fred Rickson

Hi All, The original Gore-Tex became contaminated or dirty and then leaked. That was many years ago. Now they have Gore-Tex jackets, pants, gloves, hats, boots and waders. It now has an anti-contamination feature that really made the difference. Gore-Tex, like many long term products has gone through many evolutions. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Fred,     My wife bought me for Christmas an Orvis Gortex wading jacket. Since that time I have used it on the rivers and lakes from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. Throughout that period I encountered everything from steady and heavy downpours to biting cold snow squalls. The jacket performed superably trough all and I am continually thanking her for this purchase. The coat has no yet soaked through, though I will say that it does get "heavy" with water after several hours of standing in the rain. The nice aspect of the Orvis coat is that they put an unconditional five year guarantee on the jacket for everything from barbwire tears to leakage…either way they fix or replace. I think some of the other coats on the market such as Simms, Patagonia, LL Bean and even Cabelas own name brand wading jacket are all good quality. Yes, Gortex has improved alot since when it was first marketed. Hope this helps. Cheers, Colin Dartmouth, NS

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writes: will easily keep you dry and comfortable in the worst Oregon weather (I lived in Oregon from 1976 to 1987). You didn’t spend all that time living in Ontario or Baker City…did you?

No, I lived in Troutdale and then in Sandy (east of Portland towards Mt. Hood). The main drawback with Gore-tex is the price – they are spendy.  The performance now is superb.  If you’re still worried about getting stuck, just be sure to buy from a company or a dealer that has a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Have you spent all day walking in a brush field?? In western Oregon?? Does it work then??  If I spend that much money it really needs to work in a situation other than downtown Portland or a tourist on a rainy day walk on a trail.  Thanks.

The rivers I primarily fished were the Sandy, the Clackamas (main stem and North Fork), the Salmon, Eagle Creek (the one near Estacada), and  the North Umpqua.    Once in a blue moon I’d fish the Wilson or the Trask.  Also fished the Deschutes, the Williamson, Fort Creek, Spring creek, and Squaw Creek in Southern and Central Oregon.  The GPS-2 standard Gore-tex such as the Orvis Tailwaters wading jacket will easily hold up to this type of use.                       Good Fishing,                          Dan Dan Gracia Orvis

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[deleted] The rivers I primarily fished were the Sandy, the Clackamas (main stem and North Fork), the Salmon, Eagle Creek (the one near Estacada), and  the North Umpqua.    Once in a blue moon I’d fish the Wilson or the Trask.  Also fished the Deschutes, the Williamson, Fort Creek, Spring creek, and Squaw Creek in Southern and Central Oregon.  The GPS-2 standard Gore-tex such as the Orvis Tailwaters wading jacket will easily hold up to this type of use.

Not me man…I’m staying right in my dry and warm living room until the GPS-3’s are actually shipping….I can’t believe you actually fished the Eagle in a GPS-2…what were you thinking man ? What kind of waders do you have for those massive balls of yours to even try such a stunt ? — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks.

Your right about first generation gore-tex being of poor quality… WL Gore acted quickly to fix these problems completely though..My first set of Gore-Tex raingear was 3rd generation and hasn’t leaked a bit, and my new wading jacket (Cabella’s Gore-Tex) is incredible… — Chris Schmelzer, MS-2 Medical College of Wisconsin Milwaukee, WI 53208

Response:

I wasn’t going to say anything, since the subject was "GoreTex" per se, but I have been absolutely overjoyed with the "Dry Plus" jacket I bought from Cabellas for about half what the competition wanted. Now I want their waders in the same fabric. Again, very competitively priced. Look good, and my wife wants to wear my stuff… Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. Your right about first generation gore-tex being of poor quality… WL Gore acted quickly to fix these problems completely though..My first set of Gore-Tex raingear was 3rd generation and hasn’t leaked a bit, and my new wading jacket (Cabella’s Gore-Tex) is incredible… — Chris Schmelzer, MS-2 Medical College of Wisconsin Milwaukee, WI 53208

Response:

will easily keep you dry and comfortable in the worst Oregon weather (I lived in Oregon from 1976 to 1987).

You didn’t spend all that time living in Ontario or Baker City…did you?  The main drawback with Gore-tex is the price – they are spendy.  The performance now is superb.  If you’re still worried about getting stuck, just be sure to buy from a company or a dealer that has a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Have you spent all day walking in a brush field?? In western Oregon?? Does it work then??  If I spend that much money it really needs to work in a situation other than downtown Portland or a tourist on a rainy day walk on a trail.  Thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks.

Hi Fred, When Gore-tex first came out lots of people made waterproof rain gear out of it.  A lot of them didn’t know what they were doing and either didn’t seal the seams, or sealed them correctly.  Gore-tex got a real black eye from this and they quickly changed their licensing agreements so people couldn’t call it Gore-tex if they didn’t follow the Gore-tex approved construction methods. This made a huge difference and they started rebuilding their reputation. However, Gore-tex still had some problems with salt and dirt clogging it up, and also had a problem with some chemicals.  About 7 years ago they came out with a second generation Gore-tex that is not bothered by either.  The current Gore-tex is an expanded PTFE membrane and works great.  When it gets dirty, you wash it with Tide.  When water stops beading up on the outer fabric (typical with heavy use after 5 or 6 years), you re-treat the outer fabric with Tectron or Scotchguard.  Even if the outer fabric loses its DWR (Durable Water Repellancy) and gets completely waterlogged, you still won’t get wet.  You may feel like you’re wet because the water is flush up against the membrane when the outer fabric’s DWR is gone, but when you take it off, you’re dry.  Re-new the DWR as needed for best comfort. Gore-tex has a couple of "water repellancy" standards they test designs against.  The most stringent is the GPS2 standard.  The North Face, Marmot, and a number of other  backpacking equipment manufacturers have designs that meet this standard.  Orvis has a Gore-tex fishing jacket called the Tailwater’s Wading Jacket that is GPS2 certified.  Any products that meet this standard will easily keep you dry and comfortable in the worst Oregon weather (I lived in Oregon from 1976 to 1987).  The main drawback with Gore-tex is the price – they are spendy.  The performance now is superb.  If you’re still worried about getting stuck, just be sure to buy from a company or a dealer that has a 100% satisfaction guarantee.                        Hope this helps,                            Dan Dan Gracia Orvis

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Fred Rickson schrieb in Nachricht Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. Fred Rickson

Hi Fred, I had the same problem, my wife and I bought two very expensive Goretex fishing jackets which we were told was the best there is , we used them a couple of times and then took them back,because we were soaked after an hour or so of solid rain, the dealer said he couldnt understand it, but wouldnt take them back.  I would never buy this stuff again. We now have Sympatex jackets, which are lighter, cheaper and WATERPROOF ! Tight lines ! Mike Connor

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We now have Sympatex jackets, which are lighter, cheaper and WATERPROOF !

I don’t have anything against Gore-Tex, but I agree that Sympatex is lighter, cheaper and more comfortable to wear.  I also have a "Triple Point Ceramic" anorak made by Lowe Alpine that is impervious to wind and rain and is (IMHO) the ultimate for hiking, fishing, etc., in bad conditions. Dan

Response:

Many years ago, when Goretex first came out, my wife and I bought two top of the line sets of rain gear.  We would be soaked after standing in the rain fishing all day.  We took them back and have not used Goretex again (using rubber instead).  But, is the product really waterproof today….and I mean standing or walking all day in a good Oregon rain.  I still mean a really good, expensive set.  Please advise.  Thanks. Fred Rickson

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » The MisRealized Carp

The MisRealized Carp

Question:

C’mon you people, admit it, let share some carp on the fly stories.  These stalwart fighters have been much maligned over the decades regarding their worth as a worthy adversary. I know some of you have forsaken the Trout for the coarseness of what’s still considered in Europe as a noble Fish. The Carp.  Philosophical retorts as well as pragmatic advice on how to catch the suckers is welcome.   (Have tried steelhead type egg flies with little success for starters).

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C’mon you people, admit it, let share some carp on the fly stories.

These stalwart fighters have been much maligned over the decades regarding their worth as a worthy adversary. I know some of you have forsaken the Trout for the coarseness of what’s still considered in Europe as a noble Fish. The Carp.  Philosophical retorts as well as pragmatic advice on how to catch the suckers is welcome.   (Have tried steelhead type egg flies with little success for starters). Danezen,  A friend and I caught a number of carp of 3 to 5 pounds on #14 GRHE in clear quiet water.  Fished the fly with a slow finger winding retrieve.  They make a lot of noise splashing as the hook is set and the first 3 minutes are a good fight…. then it is a down and dogged pull without much character to it until you bring them to net… Seem to lack the stamina of a salmonid. Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

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I know some of you have forsaken the Trout for the coarseness of what’s still considered in Europe as a noble Fish. The Carp.  Philosophical retorts as well as pragmatic advice on how to catch the suckers is welcome.  

In the absence of other fish, Carp is King. In the presence of other fish, carp is an abomination.

Response:

I have had some success using maribu jigs with hackle bodys, fished off docks and presented like you would to a trout. them buggers can be alfull picky. lots of fun on 2 pound line. The guy crappie fishing next to me about had a heart attack when I landed a 6 pounder on 2 pound line. bright colors seem to help. crashawk

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A number of years ago, I was fishing 11 Mile Reservoir for Pike. I was casting a large black Bunny Fly that had been very successful for me netting me a number of Pike up to twenty pounds. I was fishing a wind swept shoreline from a belly boat & was casting into the roiled water near the bank, retrieving the fly back into the clear. The Pike I had been catching were sitting right at the edge of this line. I made a cast very near the shore & thought that I had snagged. Then all hell broke loose. Following a huge swurl, the fish took off like a freight train running toward the middle of the lake. With an eight weight & a heavy leader, I was unable to slow the fish. When I reached my backing, I turned around, held my rod above my head, & kicked as hard as I could to keep the fish from taking all the line. I followed the fish as well as I could, without being able to gain any line. Finally just when the spool was nearly empty, it stopped. I regained some line by getting right over the fish. Then the work began. For what seemed to be a half hour, I followed the fish, got towed by him, gained line, lost line. I felt I had hooked a CO record pike.I finally gained enough line that I saw the fish. I was *VERY* dissappointed when I saw it was a carp. When I finally landed it, I guestimated it at over twenty pounds, similar in weight to some of the bigger pike I had caught. Over the next few days, my mind kept going back to the battle with this fish. I was probably the most exciting, hard fought battle I’d had with a fish. This turned around my thinking about carp. I now fish for them with dries when they’re surface feeding, & will fish for them with nymphs etc. I find that small flies, as a whole, fish better.   Willi

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – C’mon you people, admit it, let share some carp on the fly stories.  These stalwart fighters have been much maligned over the decades regarding their worth as a worthy adversary. I know some of you have forsaken the Trout for the coarseness of what’s still considered in Europe as a noble Fish. The Carp.  Philosophical retorts as well as pragmatic advice on how to catch the suckers is welcome.   (Have tried steelhead type egg flies with little success for starters). There is a story in the current California Fly Fisher about sneak fishing for large carp in ponds in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco. Written by Seth Norman with photos by Valentine Atkinson. He scored on egg flies. The fish were spooky. The proper camoflage would be to dress as a bum and cast a short rod from a park bench.

Laugh.  I really miss my subscription to that magazine but I no longer live in California.  If you (the generic you) live in California, and you flyfish,  I highly recommend a subscription to the magazine. -Mark Vinsel BTW, in case this rare willingness to write on your favorite quarry inspires you to want to subscribe, Cal FFer can be reached at: P.O. Box 40429 San Francisco, CA,  94140 (415) 284-0313

At one time they had an email address as well but were having trouble with their service provider and I haven’t seen anything from them in a long time.  I had a good feeling about them when I first subscribed to the magazine and they apologized for not getting back so soon because the staff was out fishing. John Fereira

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Guide » Japanese Fly Fishermen

Japanese Fly Fishermen

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        I am interested in starting up my own guide service to those people in Japan who enjoy fly fishing.  I have been fly fishing for several years all over Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana.  I also speak Japanese fluently.  I am just looking to see if there is an interest among the Japanese in fly fishing.  I am close to graduation and the idea of being stuck in an office is horrifying.  If I can combine my language skills with something I love to do- fly fishing- I would be very happy.         If anyone can give me some advice on the best way to do some advertising I would greatly appreciate it.  If you are Japanese and can give me some feedback please e-mail me. (Eigo ka Nihongo…dochidemo ii desu)         Thanks for your help.

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I work for Japanese company and next to golf the Japaneses are getting into fly fishing in big way.  You idea sounds interesting and I have the same sentiments, however I have been working in Japan and Seattle for away.  Let me know your plans in more detail. Wayne

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