Question:

I don’t know about other folks out there, but I resent the entire concept of "The Idoit’s Guide to…" series. It’s insulting to imply that people are "idiots" because they want to learn quickly about running, or Window 95, or Wine Tasting, or whatever. Somebody needs to come up with a Genius’ series to combat these Idiot Guides. For my money, Galloway’s book is a classic without insulting the reader with an annoying title.

The books do not suggest that their readers are idiots. There are beginners to various activities who have beginners’ concerns; such people may feel — let’s say through insecurity — that their concerns are not those generally felt by any but the novice. They suspect that they would be regarded as idiotic by more advanced members if they were to express their concerns. This isn’t to say anyone has ever suggested they are indeed idiotic for being new to a particular activity. The books appeal, in a light-hearted way, to such insecurities. It is simply way of attracting the novice audience. Take a look inside one of these books and check how many times the author actually refers to his reader as an "idiot". Not too many, I suspect.

Response:

You should read "Complete Idiots for Dummies" for an explanation of this phenomon. -ssloth – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -It’s insulting to imply that people are "idiots" because they want to learn quickly about running, or Window 95, or Wine Tasting, or whatever.

Response:

The title may be "irritating", but some books in the Idiot and Dummy series have famous authors, as with this one. I find the series hit and miss.  Some of the books are too trivial while others, such as Rogers’, are good ones.

Response:

I read parts of it in the bookstore yesterday and it seems pretty good. It had a number of statistics I’ll quote from time to time when the appropiate issue comes up in this newsgroup.

Response:

Joe, you’re joking, right? A lot of late 20th century phenomena irritates the crap out of me, but a light-hearted acknowledgement that most people don’t know as much as they’d like to, something that’s become an incredibly successful series of publications… sorry, I just don’t have time to resent that one. By the way, I think the use of the term "Idiot" in this context dates back to some early 70s shop manuals that were written "…For the Complete Idiot," which were, themselves, light-hearted takeoffs on the centuries-old angling (fly fishing?) classic, "The compleat angler…" Someone more literary than I might wish to cut in and help me out here before I appear even more ignorant. or just plain idiotic, Dirk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about other folks out there, but I resent the entire concept of "The Idoit’s Guide to…" series. It’s insulting to imply that people are "idiots" because they want to learn quickly about running, or Window 95, or Wine Tasting, or whatever. Somebody needs to come up with a Genius’ series to combat these Idiot Guides. For my money, Galloway’s book is a classic without insulting the reader with an annoying title. I read parts of it in the bookstore yesterday and it seems pretty good. It had a number of statistics I’ll quote from time to time when the appropiate issue comes up in this newsgroup. — Joe Ranft

Response:

I don’t know about other folks out there, but I resent the entire concept of "The Idoit’s Guide to…" series. It’s insulting to imply that people are "idiots" because they want to learn quickly about running, or Window 95, or Wine Tasting, or whatever. Somebody needs to come up with a Genius’ series to combat these Idiot Guides. For my money, Galloway’s book is a classic without insulting the reader with an annoying title. I read parts of it in the bookstore yesterday and it seems pretty good. It had a number of statistics I’ll quote from time to time when the appropiate issue comes up in this newsgroup.

– Joe Ranft

Response:

Question:

I am looking for a literary agent to represent a book that I am writing for publication.  Any suggestions?  Thanks a bunch.  I never forget those who help me. — Flyfish NC                                                   Gordon Churchill                                        http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/3853                                                                     Dragon’s Hope Publishing Heidi Dragon Churchill                                               Business cards, ad design, forms and all manner of desktop publishing.      

Response:

I have not failed  I am a writter of peotry.  Need publishcation

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have not failed I have not failedDragon’s Hope Publishing I have not failedHeidi Dragon Churchill                                               I have not failedBusiness cards, ad design, forms and all manner of desktop publishing.       I have not failed                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

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[snip] : I guess they figure the writing chores should be left lot the giants of : the industry, like Howard Stern and Rush Limbaugh.  <sigh I feel for ya.  But writers like Stern aren’t the really sad cases.  You may not like him, but he has talent.  You try talking off the top of your head every day and maintaining the attention of a million listeners.  I have a hard time some days with 200 in a classroom, and they pay to be there.  Stern can tell a story. The real sad ones are the cases like this woman bomber pilot recently resigned from the Air Force.  She disobeys a direct order from her superior and gets a large advance to write a book about it.  Shameless. The author, the publisher and the editor. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

I am looking for a literary agent to represent a book that I am writing for publication.  Any suggestions?  Thanks a bunch.  I never forget those who help me. — Flyfish NC Gordon Churchill                                        http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/3853

Gordon, I’ve been trying to get an agent to read my novel "Blue Ice" for over a year.  I’ve got 75 rejections, and only a handful (5) even accepted the first 25 manuscript pages.  I have no idea how many of those actually even read the first page. I guess they figure the writing chores should be left lot the giants of the industry, like Howard Stern and Rush Limbaugh.  <sigh As a musician friend frequently reminds me that all I need to do is get up in that bell tower with my deer rifle, and I’ll have a book deal within 48 hours.   Yes, I’m cynical.  I’m probably also paranoid.  But then, just because you’re paranoid, doesn’t mean they aren’t all out to get you. — Mark Cahill For E-mail remove the _Remove_This from the reply to address. http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297/fishing.htm Mark Cahill’s Fishing New England – Daily Fishing News http://www.reel-time.com/ The Internet Journal of Saltwater Fly Fishing – Metropolitan Boston Regional Editor

Response:

Question:

I am just getting started in FF and I don’t know the best method for affixing my flyline to the reel.  Also, how do I attach the leader to the line?

Response:

Benjamin, You can tie the backing to the reel, the backing to the fly line than the flyline to the leader/tippet. Reel to backing: Two simple overhand knots. Tag end of backing around spool 2 times and tie an overhand knot in the end. Than a second overhand knot around the standing line. Snug up the second knot. Than pull the standing line tight. The knots should slip down to the spool hub. Fly line to backing and leader to fly line to leader/tippet can both be done with a nail knot. Most books on basic fishing will have a picture of this knot. If you purchased all your tackle from a fly shop, take it back to the shop and ask them to show you how to do it. Most will be happy to do it for you. If you got your tackle mail order, go to your local fly shop and purchase about $100  worth of additional tackle and than ask them to help you. There are are other knots you can use, but I find these knots east to tie. Good luck & Good fishing, — Dennis C. Aron Independent Representative #13921 Champion Fishing Co., Ltd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am just getting started in FF and I don’t know the best method for affixing my flyline to the reel.  Also, how do I attach the leader to the line?

Response:

Benjamin,         Your local shop will do most of it for you and the other posts suggest the best knots for it but I just wanted to add that from your fly line, the first bit of mono is called the butt section and it’s the thickest diameter part of your leader.           It was suggested to me to have a short butt section from my line to my leader and have a loop at the end of it.  This way I can make the same loop on my leaders and change leaders forever without having to retie the nail knot at the end of the flyline.           Whoever at your local shop will probably be hip to the entire set up. Don’t ever be intimidated into NOT asking questions of these people, I’ve learned a lot from them. Good Luck, Bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Also, how do I attach the leader to the line?

Response:

I am just getting started in FF and I don’t know the best method for affixing my flyline to the reel.  Also, how do I attach the leader to the line?

Ben, Spend some money on a good beginner fly fishing book. Try to find a copy of Dave Hughes "Fly Fishing Basics" for $12.95 (US$) – I happen to think it’s quite good. ISBN 0-8117-2439-5. Also, you don’t attach your fly line to the reel, you attach it to backing line which is attached to the reel. Backing goes around the reel spindle twice and is tied with a simple overhand knot and a second overhand knot at the end of the tag end. Pull this tight and the tag end overhand knot will catch in the first overhand knot that is tied around the backing line. Hard to write – easy to tie. NOTE: make sure you wrap the line onto the reel in the correct direction too. Adjust the drag pawls too. Use a nail-knot at the backing line /fly line point. If you are using a wt. forward fly line – make sure the correct end is attached to the backing material.Should be okay if left on the original spool until attaching it to the backing. (A DT line is double-ended so no mistake possible) Use a braided loop on the end of your fly line and form a loop in the end of your leader(s). A loop-to-loop connection allows leader change out quickly. Add some extra tippet material to the "fly" end of your leader and save buying lot’s of expensive leaders. Tight Lines, Don Burns Wishful collector of Gillums and Dickersons – owner of Montague, H-I and Heddons

Response:

Question:

Hi Sandy, Great idea and post on the Skinny Minny. I’m going to give them a try after Christmas. There is usually some kind of thaw for a few day in mid January in Montana and I’m going to be prepared. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

–

[ skinnies 4K ]

             –Skinny Minnies and Rapalicas– WARNING:   The following discussion may prove hazardous to your sensibilities. If you like precise definitions and are uncomfortable with gray area, abort now and read no further. Else continue.   Hot damn. I’ve been working on this for over ten years, and now I finally have it: homemade, lightweight wigglers that are quick and easy to make. I wrote about this once, or, should I say John Gierach did, about 10 years ago in fly fisherman, in an article called "Flies or Lures," where my work was reviewed along with the work of several others (A K Best?) I had some wigglers that worked then, but they were way too heavy, and took way too long to make. I posted some interim, ‘almost works’ instructions to rec.outdoors.fishing a few years ago, and immediately started a flame war about what is and isn’t fly fishing. Several readers thought the very idea of fly rod wigglers was inherently reprehensible. One reader referred to them derisively as "Skinny Minnies." I thought it was a pretty good name. I’ll have to see if I can get something published under that name. For me, wigglers have been the hardest challenge in fly tying. I have been making them for years, but I never knew–until recently–which ones would work and which ones wouldn’t. Dave Whitlock once described the balancing of homemade wigglers as "Impossibly difficult." But it ain’t so: once you’ve got it, it’s easy. BACKGROUND:   First of all–just in case there is any doubt in your mind–wigglers are absolutely deadly. Tiny, 3/8" long wigglers are absolutely dynamite on the spring creeks. In bigger water, fat, long-bodied wigglers thrown into the i pockets behind overhanging willow branches pull out big browns like a magnet. MATERIALS:    Thin super glue.    5-minute epoxy    Spawn sack—dyed brown or black if you are a perfectionist    Clear mylar sheeting (get it at the drafting supplies store, ala                          Bett’s frog lip)    any standard hook…with hook size vaguely dependant on body length.    optional: any number of rubber leg, marabou, saddle hackle additions              that can be added, as-per-your imagination. TYING (assembly) INSTRUCTIONS:    ….say for a big one…    Cut a 1/4" x 1/4" x 2" square tube of closed cell foam. Use scissors to taper off the rear end. Use a razor blade to cut a 60 degree slanted front face in the foam. Slit what will eventually be the belly of the fly (lure?) and push in a flattened split shot, along with a dab of epoxy. This "belly-mounted" ballast is critical. This (belly ballast) was the missing part of the puzzle, for me. With a bouyant tail, a little ballast in the belly and slightly weighted bill, they all orient downwards, and dive and wiggle like crazy when you pull on the line.     Roll the foam body up like a cigarette (perhaps you learned how to do this i back in the late 1960’s)–in a rectangle of spawn sack. Twist up the loose spawn sack at the rear end, and glue the tight knot at the rear end with a spot of thin super glue. Clip off the excesss spawn sack. Twist the spawn sack flat over the slanted front end of the foam body. Use a small amount of thin super glue to pin the spawn sack flat against the slanted front end of the foam.   Cut a rectangle of rigid, clear mylar sheeting for the diving lip. Rough it up with sand paper. Glue the front end of the slanted foam body onto the diving lip with epoxy. Set it aside to dry.    Once the epoxy has hardened, use scissors to trim back the mylar sheeting into a Rapala-like diving lip. Glue an additional, flattened split shot on the lower edge of the bill.    At this point, you can add do-dads. Sew in rubber legs, flashabou, saddle hackles, beady eyes….whatever you want. What you have, at this point, is a soft-bodied lure that dives and wiggles like a daemon, and yet is no heavier than many commercially tied streamer flies. You can toss them easily with a fly rod. HOW TO FISH THE FLURE:   Use a bodkin needle to poke a hole through the bill. Push the tippet through the hole. Throw a half hitch around the body of the lure. Use a needle to push the tippet through the foam at its rear end. Tie on any hook you like. Fish it upstream and across, like a streamer. You may have to use toenail clippers to "fine tune" the action of the lure. Then try fishing it it downstream, swimming it back and forth at the top of likely looking pockets. Pay attention and be ready to set the hook. You’ll get plenty of strikes. You’ll find more big fish than you ever imagined. I fished some of these last summer on the Big Horn, and the results were nearly indescribable. The only flaw at that point, was that only about 1 in 4 flies I made worked (wiggled) right. Now they all do. It’s all in the belly ballast.

Response:

Question:

: While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the : best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting : machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It : is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in : my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The : Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth : considering along side the Loomis and Sage. :       I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis : IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go : wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. : Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas : Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting : tools. I think this, and every other thread like it demonstrates one thing: everybody seems to have a favourite rod that they say is the "best" but there is no consensus overall. It is absolutely pointless to ask which rod is best because everybody will say that the rod they spent the most amount of money on is the best. Basically, I have come to the conclusion that all rods are exactly the same – Like designer jeans, it depends on what label you prefer. I have had a chance to fish with a "cheap" fenwick fiberglas import, a top of the line Sage rod and a T&T which I now own and I have to admit that I was able to cast effectively with all three. I have a friend who has been fishing most of his life (probably more than 20 years) and who swears by a Wal-mart special he bought for $35.00. He outfishes everyone he knows (except his wife ) and has caught everything from pike and atlantic salmon to rainbows in the tiniest streams with overhanging trees,shrubs and other detritus. I feel as if I have been sucked, like many others, into the myth that more expensive is better. All it does is put my income into the pockets of Orvis, Loomis, Sage and T&T executives. It is not the rod that makes the fisherman, it’s the enjoyment of being outdoors in a pristine river doing an activity that we love. Just my two pennies’ worth… Ken

Response:

1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

St. Croix 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

Sage, I prefer the look.  Aside from that, Loomis is probably every bit as good if not better than the Sage.  Finally, if I could only have one rod, I’d buy the best of a lesser name vs the cheapest of a top name.   Thanks.

john

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

We are selling more multi-piece (3 or 4 piece) rods every year. Nine foot, three piece rods are very hot. Lots of old timers will be shocked at how well they perform. Twenty years ago we all had several 2 piece rods and then one 4 piece we used only for back-packing. Today, my staff and I are using only multi-piece rods. I would cast the rods that you are interested in and find one you like. You might consider the brands with unconditional life-time warranties. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

Response:

I’m a firm believer in travel rods, having owned Sage 3 pce 586 LL, a Sage 3 pce SP 490, a Fisher 6 pce 7-8 wt and a Diawa 5 pce 4-5 wt. Currently, the SP and the Diawa get all the use.  The Diawa and Fisher are spiggot types whereas the Sages use  the ferrule approach.  To be honest, I can’t tell a damned bit of difference when casting, however the ferrule design is reported to be longer lasting as the spiggot fit tends to wear.  That’s what they say, but I’ve seen some old spiggot rods that fit together just fine.  Frankly, ignore the joining method and buy the rod that suits you.  Winston and Hardy uses spiggots for their travel rods and they don’t produce junk for sure. Spend a bit extra if you can and take a look at the Sage LL series. Even though my SP has a greater useable fishing range, the LL has to be the sweetest to cast and fish.  The GL3s are good too.  Try the GL3 9′ 4 wt. as well.  None of what you have mentioned are bad, I.ve casted them all but I have to go back to the LLs.  Its personal preference on my part, but try one.  Try the 3 pce 586.  Sure an SP, GLX, PM10 or T&T Horizon may cast further, but when is the last time you ever casted a fly more than 50′ to catch a ‘bow.  Buy a used one if you have to. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

Response:

Dear J., I do not personally own a travel rod, but I was recently in the market for a lightweight flyrod and the St. Croix came highly recommended to me.  I know of some flyfishing crazies around this area who own the St. Croix "Pack Rat" and just love them. Kevin J. Engel

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

IMHO Sage delivers the best value. I have got a 5 wt 3 pc 9 ft Sage-SP and this rod is perfectly alright for nearly all purposes. If you like smaller streams – take this rod. If you prefer bigger streams – take this rod. It covers all kind of streams because of its soft presentation combined with a lot of power and backbone. Additionally, Sage has a perfect warranty: Once I broke my rod they repaired it free of charge within four weeks and inbetween they lent me the same rod to fish with. Good service. Nothing to complain about. 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

See above. Hope this helped. Good fishing and tight lines. Jan — Jan Geert Meents Georgenstrasse 120                              Fax: +89/278174-57 80798 Muenchen                                Phone: +89/278174-56

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

        IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth considering along side the Loomis and Sage.         I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting tools.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       Hi Bruce,                  I am a Loomis manso my first choice would deffinatleybe

the Loomis GL3.  As for the high end rods I would reccomend the Loomis GLX.  The GLX is a much faster rod than the GL3.  I do not know too much about the Sage rods because I have never owned one nor have I casted one.  I hope this helps.      Fish or die,                 Adam Birkes

Response:

Question:

I have some very old fishing and fly tying books that I need to have restored and appraised. If anyone knows of a business that does this kind of work I would greatly appreciate any information as to how to contact them.

Response:

I have some very old fishing and fly tying books that I need to have restored and appraised. If anyone knows of a business that does this kind of work I would greatly appreciate any information as to how to contact them.

Where are you located? Jim Benenson Los Alamos, NM "To save your rivers, save your mountains" Emperor Yu of China, circa 1600 BC

Response:

: I have some very old fishing and fly tying books that I need to have restored : and appraised. If anyone knows of a business that does this kind of work I : would greatly appreciate any information as to how to contact them. You might want to take some photographs of the books and describe them in detail and send the letter to Sotheby’s auction house, Fine Books and Manuscript Department in New York City. If they are something very valuable like Isaak Walton first editions or something, they will let you know the value and offer you a chance to sell them. In general, collectors don’t wan’t any ‘restoration’ work, so I would send the letter before you have it done. —

Response:

I have some very old fishing and fly tying books that I need to have restored and appraised. If anyone knows of a business that does this kind of work I

Appraisal is necessary first, so you can decide if (expensive) restoration is justified.  There are few specialized antiquarian fishing book dealers, but small ads in back of (US) Fly Fisherman or (British) Trout and Salmon may allow you to locate one near you.  For bookbinders, consult any big university library:  they both have theses and new journals bound into books and repair old books. Age is important but does not directly correlate with price, cf. also difficulty of conserving books on acidic wood-pulp paper (from late 19th century onwards.) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Question:

Hi Group– Well there’s now a pro and a con posted re: clipping hackle.  As a beginner in both tying them and fishing them, I’d like to see more on this subject from more experienced fishers–what does Issac Walton think about it?  Not being able to justify 50 bucks "for a bunch of feathers" to my dubious spouse, I don’t have many Metz primo capes, so I’m always snipping away at my creations.  (The height of my success as a tyer so far came when she swatted a fly I had in my vice–I call it a size 14 Blue-Green Bent Hook Flathead Roadkill). Anyway, should I add clipped hackle to my list of tying blunders?

Response:

Yes, it is kind of a hassle to tie both wieghted and unweighted flies and keep them separated in your fly boxes.  Using both has allowed me to catch fish when the traditional nymph patterns would not produce.

No hassle of they are colour-coded by tying thread.  My weighted nymphs are all tied with red thread, easy to see;  if I were a closer imitationist I could choose between black, tan and olive. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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No hassle of they are colour-coded by tying thread.  My weighted nymphs are all tied with red thread, easy to see;  if I were a closer imitationist I could choose between black, tan and olive. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Don, I do the same color coding with one small difference. I lead all my hooks first and use the color coded thread which I wrap down the bend of the hook a little. So, when I look in the flybox all I have to do is look under their little tails to see how I weighted them…   I know someone will come up with a good joke about looking under their tails (:^ Frank

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Don, I do the same color coding with one small difference. I lead all my hooks first and use the color coded thread which I wrap down the bend of the hook a little. So, when I look in the flybox all I have to do is look under their little tails to see how I weighted them… I know someone will come up with a good joke about looking under their tails (:^ Frank

Oh, I get it, Frank.  Sort of a variation on a lead-ass!  My father used to always call me that.  Now I know what he was talking about– the color of my underpants, which must have stuck out above my pants.  :^) (Sorry, best I could do under pressure.) :^( Charley

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        For slow to medium water, I’ve clipped a ^ into the bottom of the hackle for years. When I’m doing so, I deliberately use a hackle which is too long so that when trimmed will be the proper length.         The benefits of doing this are twofold. It sits very well on the water and has a terrific footprint on the water. A mayfly at rest on the water has long legs out to the side – not underneath it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well there’s now a pro and a con posted re: clipping hackle. When I started tying we had only Chinese and Idia necks.  We would have killed for a Metz #3 rooster neck.  Today they are around $30 and some shops split them in half or you might split one with a buddy. If you keep it away from bugs or you house pets they usually work to be a good long term investment with dries around $1.75 per each.  The most popular color is natural brown and then Grizzly.  Get some Pantone pens for coloring your Grizzly or Creme hackle in a pinch.  I haven’t clipped any hackle before, at least not on purpose, but I done think it would sit up like the natural ends.  Bill Kiene  Kiene’s Fly Shop  Sacramento, Ca.

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Well there’s now a pro and a con posted re: clipping hackle.

When I started tying we had only Chinese and Idia necks.  We would have killed for a Metz #3 rooster neck.  Today they are around $30 and some shops split them in half or you might split one with a buddy. If you keep it away from bugs or you house pets they usually work to be a good long term investment with dries around $1.75 per each.  The most popular color is natural brown and then Grizzly.  Get some Pantone pens for coloring your Grizzly or Creme hackle in a pinch.  I haven’t clipped any hackle before, at least not on purpose, but I done think it would sit up like the natural ends.  Bill Kiene  Kiene’s Fly Shop  Sacramento, Ca.

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Well can anyone out there give me a rule of thumb for weighting nymphs? My method in the past has been to first not weight the nymph itself so that it tumbled in the water more naturally.  I added weight (lead shot) about 8 inches up the tipet until JUST before my indicator would studder as the weight and nymph would drag the bottom.  I have always caught fish that way.  So I am fishing with this rookie who fished his nymph with no weight under an indicator.  I thought his nymph would never get anywhere near the bottom.  He started hooking fish and I was dry, both of us using the same PTs I had tied!.  Should I rething my nymphing strategy?  Can a nymph  act and be fished as an emerger with no modifications?  I’m thinking that these fish were wanting emergers and that my method for weighting is still very sound.  Opinions appreciated.  And please!  "No sticking to dry flys" cracks.

My experience in nymphing is that you should be prepared to offer both weighted and unweighted nymphs to actively feeding fish.  There are occasions when fish key on rising/hatching nymphs,  and virtually ignore bottom dwelling creatures even though they are plentiful. I try to tie my nymph flies to cover the full life cycle of the insect.  Something as simple as adding an emerging wing to a nymph can dramatically increase the effectiveness of a particular fly when nymphs are in transitional stage. As a rule of thumb for small nymphs (#14-#22) I add only enough weight to sink the fly a few inches.  I can always add or remove split shot to achieve the desired sink rate. Yes, it is kind of a hassle to tie both wieghted and unweighted flies and keep them separated in your fly boxes.  Using both has allowed me to catch fish when the traditional nymph patterns would not produce. I hope this helps. Bryan Bonds White River Anglers htttp://www.ipa.net/~bbonds Fayetteville, Ar

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:  (The height of my success as a tyer : so far came when she swatted a fly I had in my vice–I call it a size : 14 Blue-Green Bent Hook Flathead Roadkill).   Congratulations, Lee! Not often that the average joe can come up with a new pattern! You may want to publish it.  ;-  Anyway, should I add clipped hackle to my list of tying blunders?  My opinion, yes. It changes the appearnce of the fly. The fine tips of a natural feather make a difference in the silhoette and the floatabily. You may want to consider cheaper necks for now. The expensive one _are_ cheaper in the long run. More feathers per buck and fewer "bad" feathers per neck. The price is high to start though. Jon Porter

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Well can anyone out there give me a rule of thumb for weighting nymphs? My method in the past has been to first not weight the nymph itself so that it tumbled in the water more naturally.  I added weight (lead shot) about 8 inches up the tipet until JUST before my indicator would studder as the weight and nymph would drag the bottom.  I have always caught fish

[deleted] personally, i do not use my indicators like bobbers, constantly adjusting the weight until the perfect balance is acheived.  i much prefer using 3 to 5 tiny blobs of flourescent plastic indicator material (the sheet peel off types, not the big honking round versions of these…), Cortlands cut in 1/4ths or 1/6ths.  One right at the butt section/line connection and then spaced at 6-10 inch intervals.  this allows me to gauge… 1) depth of bug 2) directionality of leader 3) speed of drift 4) directionality of drift So you add some shot to get down and drown one or two of the indicators, so what …you can still see them under the water and see what attitude your your line is in relative to all the other variables. When you see a trout charge one of your sunken blobs of indicator you can switch to some kind of emerger and sagely pretend that you figured it out. Good fishing, Tim Walker

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Question:

A friend of mine (not online) just passed on to me the strangest dressing for a fly I’ve ever seen called the Regal Eagle. In my 50 years of fly fishing I’ve never seen anything like it: Regal Eagle dressing: Hook: Taokao 3902 (Korean made, apparently great strength in thinness) Size: 10 to 20 Thread: 6/0 black pre-waxed Tail: Pheasant Hackle fibers Body: Olive Chenille ultra thin wound together with peacock herl. Hackle: American Bald Eagle Hackle (taken from behind the neck). I was shocked at the Balk Eagle as I had thought this was a protected bird. Now I am told that some are raised in captivity for the express purpose of fly tying. I am also told that this simple fly REALLY catches fish. Has anyone else heard of it? I also have heard several fly tying catalogs out of Missouri are offering Bald Eagle feathers for sale. –Wal.

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writes: A friend of mine (not online) just passed on to me the strangest dressing for a fly I’ve ever seen called the Regal Eagle. In my 50 years of fly fishing I’ve never seen anything like it:

It sounds to me like this fly was developed to sell bald eagle feathers and catch suckers (and I don’t mean fish:) Ernie Harrison

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The American Bald Eagle is a C.I.T.E.S. class 1 protected species.  Anyone portending to sell or posess these feathers is either a) not selling the real thing or b) playing with fire. A class 1 listing simply means that under no circumstances is anyone allowed to posess/barter/sell any plumage from the bird nor the bird itself, be it alive or dead. There are other Eagle species, however that are Class 2 and Class 3, notably the Golden Eagle, which, by the way, makes the most incredible Spey hackles you’ll ever see! Let’s have a GREAT time, but let’s be careful out there!  :-) ~Spider  <<**

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Question:

Does any organization or book publish a national or regional list of fishing outfitters (looking for all types, fly, deep sea, etc.)? Thanks in advance for your help. Dennis Galotti

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You will find some outfitters in Outdoors Online, this is a web site located at http://www.wsa.com/ool/ool1home.html… hope this helps FishNews (World of Fishing at www.fishingworld.com)

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Question:

  This past week on the Provo river the Baetis hatch has started. We’ve done quite well with some comparaduns.  Sometimes, though, the fish just seem to refuse them as well as any BWO or parachute.  The colors are an olive/grey mixture.  I was wondering what other patterns would be good in this situation.  We’ve landed some in the 18" range and would love to hear your suggestions and land some more.  The hatch goes from about 2:00 to 4:00 Curtis Fry

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:   This past week on the Provo river the Baetis hatch has started. : We’ve done quite well with some comparaduns.  Sometimes, though, the : fish just seem to refuse them as well as any BWO or parachute.  The : colors are an olive/grey mixture.  I was wondering what other patterns : would be good in this situation.  We’ve landed some in the 18" range : and would love to hear your suggestions and land some more.  The hatch : goes from about 2:00 to 4:00 : Curtis Fry Try a baetis emerger pattern.  Sometimes if the trout aren’t taking duns, they will be grabbing the emerging nymphs.  There are many ties.  The one I like is a standard nymph pattern, only with a section of ballooned out white or grey poly-yarn imitating the emerging wing where the wingcase would be and sparse hackle extending from the left and right sides of the thorax.  

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Try an olive wet fly…my favorite comes from Syl Nemes as follows: #18 hook–thread:olive 6/0 flymaster                rib:yellow thread 6/0                hackle: starling, 3 turns and get a bit of the                            fluffy stuff at the base of the starling feather. These took a couple of dozen fish last autumn on upper Pine Creek, PA whilst my fishing buddies stayed with drys and got skunked. Worked less spectacularly on Valley Creek,PA two weeks back, but still got a few fish. Both were streams with wild browns and/or brookies, so it should have been a fair test.  I have used this pattern for a year and a half and it seems to work consistently. Fish it like a dry or with a downstream reach cast. Good Luck!                                                               T Littleton

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