Question:

Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast. Thanks, Bill

Response:

Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast.

Redington makes a fine product.  I have a large arbor in a smaller line weight and really like the reel.  The big concern now is the fact that Redington will soon discontinue manufacturing these reels for a new line.  Parts and service have been a big question with the old reel lines.  Redington was owned by Orvis at one time and apparently that partnership has dissolved and Redington is out on their own.  Smart move, IMHO. — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

The drag mechanisms get a bit rusty if not looked after properly. I used one in the salt for a few hours and it had started to rust before I even got out. But with care they can last for a helluva long time. I’ve got customers who’ve certain of the reels for three or four years of incessant saltwaterfishing with no problems. Ari Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast. Thanks, Bill

Ari & Gaelle Bert                                   +27 (0) 83 232 9903 & +27 (0) 83 236 5308 +27 (0) 11 443 9984 / +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                 www.troutfishing.co.za www.africanfishing.com Physical Address: 72 Swemmer Rd, Sunningdale, 2192 Postal Address: P.O.Box 79067, Senderwood, 2145, South Africa

Response:

Redington makes a fine product.

    Redington doesn’t make anything. They are a marketing company that "outsources" all of their products. Not that it matters in this case, Redington reels have a good reputation.

Response:

I was told by a local fly shop owner that these reels are made in Korea.  He also said they have an unconditional lifetime warranty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     Redington doesn’t make anything. They are a marketing company that "outsources" all of their products. Not that it matters in this case, Redington reels have a good reputation.

Response:

Redington don

Question:

What is not good is your honesty.

Cheap shot George, remember our private email exchange a while back?…..You’re life is an open book and subject to much scrutiny. I expect that there will be an open and public apology for questioning my honesty over a contrary opinion to a rather insignificant product. Since your rather public apology a few months ago, I have tried to live and let live with you but you have now made another enemy George. Your former friend Wayne Knight

Response:

… However, I still maintain that prior waterproofing of the fly and the use of drying crystals or amodou (spelling) is the way to go.

Agree with Louie on this one. Amadou is a fungus that dries flies instantly with just a touch. Touch the fly with the magic mushroom, and it’s dry. It was used extensively "in the old days", but it’s rather expensive, and low tech, so has fallen out of favor. — Ken Fortenberry- fond of natural, organic, low tech solutions

Response:

____  All you need to do is whip dry and apply to surface of water.  If you need to reapply, I’d say you need to just rinse the fish slime off your fly and cast it again.  I only have to dress a fly once, while still dry and use it all day.  You may be using very heavy hooks in your dry flies. I’d have to see what your doing. Outside that, use any dry fly dressing you want. — MrG/American Sportsman You’re weasling George.  I use the same hooks most folks use,

including on dry flies I buy in reputable fly shops.  Face it, you engaged in Spam and made a false claim.  If a person uses Gink, and I may not in the future, one must reapply it several times during the day if you are catching fish, especially due to fish slime.  Just washing the slime off and whipping the fly still will not consistently float the fly high and dry without a reapplication.  Enough already. PatK http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

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Response:

Hi All, Most companies sell a liquid solution that has Scotch Guard plus other ingredients that you can treat all your dry flies with after you tie or buy them or once a year. Some of them are Hydrostop, New Fly Kote and Water Shed. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s a silly question, but I have to ask… Does anybody have an opinion (that’s the silly part) regarding ‘Water Shed’ the so-called ‘Permanent Waterproofing Liquid’ or similar ‘permanent’ floatant products? I was looking at different fly dressings and found several references to this product.  One page has it listed with George Gehrke’s Gink & Xink products–all three at the same price.  Gink is sold as the "World’s Best Dry Fly Dressing" but is also advertised as providing ‘only’ hours of floatation. It seems that if Water Shed were truly permanent, that it would be quite the bargain. Looking forward to ensuing debate, Tom Before you buy.

Response:

The best floatant is anything that is not Gink and has a cap that is attached to the bottle by a little plastic connection so it won’t fall in the river when you pop the top off. eric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s a silly question, but I have to ask… Does anybody have an opinion (that’s the silly part) regarding ‘Water Shed’ the so-called ‘Permanent Waterproofing Liquid’ or similar ‘permanent’ floatant products? I was looking at different fly dressings and found several references to this product.  One page has it listed with George Gehrke’s Gink & Xink products–all three at the same price.  Gink is sold as the "World’s Best Dry Fly Dressing" but is also advertised as providing ‘only’ hours of floatation. It seems that if Water Shed were truly permanent, that it would be quite the bargain. Looking forward to ensuing debate, Tom Before you buy.

Response:

You are getting to be a real pain again. If you would stop changing your name, at least the filter would work.  You simply will not wash as an expert on honesty.  Just in case you still have not got it, even if gink was the best fly-floatant in the whole damn world, most people on here would not use it because you make it, and you are a bloody nuisance to say the least. It is a mystery to me that you simply do not realise what a fool you continuously make of yourself on here. Give it a bloody rest for God

Question:

Hi All, I just spent a week at a wonderful little cottage on the edge of Glacier National Park, MT. The fishing was outstanding! It was the perfect place for a fishing base in the Glacier area – convenient location near restaurants, stores, etc. near some of the best fishing in Montana.  I’d highly recommend it to all anglers. http://www.GlacierParadise.com –Skoop

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, I just spent a week at a wonderful little cottage on the edge of Glacier National Park, MT. The fishing was outstanding! It was the perfect place for a fishing base in the Glacier area – convenient location near restaurants, stores, etc. near some of the best fishing in Montana.  I’d highly recommend it to all anglers. http://www.GlacierParadise.com –Skoop I

Question:

I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

Response:

Pole?  Oh, boy are you gonna hear about that! Just head out to your local flyfishing shop and take a beginners class.  You’ll get to use their rods and find what appeals to you.  It’ll be worth the $ in the long run.   —  markb I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

"Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."  – E. Philips

Response:

I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

  Might I suggest the BASTARD bamboo fly pole from Grand old American George Gerkhe?   Ah, shoot, you’re probably serious aren’t you?  St.  Croix is, I think, the best of the entry-level rods.

Response:

stacmarsh wrote I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

Mr. Marsh (or is it Mr. Math) Please repeat after me: This is my rod.    I called it a pole. Now the ghost of ‘ol Izaak    Has damned my soul.  ;-) A "pole" is one of those bamboo things with some kite string tied on the end … you know … like George makes As for your question, I’m not too sure how to answer until I know what you mean by "not too expensive".  For example, since high end rods (graphite) can get upwards of $400 these days, a Sage Discovery Series at around $200+ is inexpensive by comparison.  And if you are not real experienced, it will be awhile before you can appreciate the differences between a good rod, such as a Sage DS, and one of the more expensive models. I started out with a rod that was less than $50, but it really is pretty much of a dog.  If you really intend to stay in the sport, a couple of C notes is worth it for a rod that’ll keep you satisfied for several years. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Question:

If you are interested in some great spring flyfishing for stripers, contact me. I had several days with catches of 100+ on Clousers last May.

Response:

100 fish in one day? One person catching 100 fish in one day?  Stripers? Get real. Big Al – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you are interested in some great spring flyfishing for stripers, contact me. I had several days with catches of 100+ on Clousers last May.

Response:

What no pictures ? Ohhhh, I thought you said "strippers" !! Pardon, Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you are interested in some great spring flyfishing for stripers, contact me. I had several days with catches of 100+ on Clousers last May.

Response:

Why not just post  some of the facts and let us decide for ourselves… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you are interested in some great spring flyfishing for stripers, contact me. I had several days with catches of 100+ on Clousers last May.

Response:

Question:

I will be spending a week near Marquette / Pictured Rocks in July. 1. Is it worth lugging my fly gear? 2. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding good streams or rivers or any other place where the fish are Biting? 3. Any recommendations on local Fishing Shops? Thanks in advance. Lou L.

Response:

The closest major trout river is the Escanaba River which is within striking distance of Marquette. I have not fished it but there is a detailed description in the book "Michigan Trout Streams" by Bob Linsenman and Steve Nevela (Backcountry Press; ISBN 0-88150-271-5). In the book they list Scott Lindquist, Lindquist’s Outdoor Sports, 131 West Washington, Marquette, MI 49855 (906) 932-4038. Hope this helps, and let me know how you do!

Response:

Lou, There are a couple of fairly good trout rivers within the confines of Pictured Rocks.  I have not fished them myself, but I have watched others catch fish and have wanted to go back with my rod.  Try the Mosquito and Miner rivers, both below the falls.  Expect to catch some wild brokies. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be spending a week near Marquette / Pictured Rocks in July. 1. Is it worth lugging my fly gear? 2. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding good streams or rivers or any other place where the fish are Biting? 3. Any recommendations on local Fishing Shops? Thanks in advance. Lou L.

Response:

Question:

I am curious if Boeing Jets like those of 747s can do a landing or take-off using auto-pilot? How about military jets?  Are they able to do auto landing and take-offs? Thank you.

Response:

    I am curious if Boeing Jets like those of 747s can do a landing or     take-off using auto-pilot? Landings, yes.  The aircraft and pilots have to be specially certified, though. The takeoff may be a capability of the aircraft, but I don’t know if it is commonly used.     How about military jets?  Are they able to do auto landing and     take-offs? Landings, yes.  I know of no automatic takeoff capability. — John Weiss Seattle, WA

Response:

    I am curious if Boeing Jets like those of 747s can do a landing or     take-off using auto-pilot? Landings, yes.  The aircraft and pilots have to be specially certified,

though. I’ve been (as a passenger) on a couple of auto landings in 757s. Fog was so thick I only saw the runway inches from touchdown. Pilots are required to do a number of those every so often (don’t remember how many in how many months). If you don’t see a youth in the right front seat and the aircraft goes bumpy on approach (power, then brakes, then more power…) odds are they are doing a practice auto landing. Pilot has to take the plane between the two outer side beacons and more or less on the center beacon at something like 7 miles, and then engage the contraption. The takeoff may be a capability of the aircraft, but I don’t know if it is commonly used.     How about military jets?  Are they able to do auto landing and     take-offs? Landings, yes.  I know of no automatic takeoff capability.

Auto take-offs make no sense… you are on the runway. You see it’s lights at least up to VR speed, after that normal instruments flight. What’s the point? IIRC, first USN bird capable of auto traps was the F-4G back in ‘Nam time. Auto throttles came before. — Jos

Question:

DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc.  A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Response:

…..and while this is probably just my imagination George, it has always seemed to me that bass that hang out in rivers are stronger fighters than those that fin lazily in lakes…..for pure excitement, a river smallie that slams your topwater bug would be hard to top!   Regards, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc.  A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Response:

overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out.

Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG!  And to get a HAWG you have to go south.  No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake!  Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!

Response:

overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG!  And to get a HAWG you have to go south.  No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake!  Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!

____YOU make me smile! Thanks Mr. G. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Response:

In California we can say"hawg" in Lake Co.The state record largemouth is over 18 lbs. caught in Hidden Valley reservoir. The reservoir is planted with pure strain Fla. largemouth and may only be fished with permission of a landowner from the surrounding gated community.

Response:

So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven. but just tell me when to show up! — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Hi George I agree, the smallmouth is one of the hardest fighting fish pound for pound I’ve ever caught. Also there are a few in the Snake river near someone I know but shhh! I’ll never say where. Good tying &… — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven.

but just tell me when to show up! — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Asotin, WA 99402 / 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Response:

overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out. Ahhhh, but George, everyone wants that ten pound HAWG!  And to get a HAWG you have to go south.  No one really seems to care that it will wallow in the mud and then show its belly like its namesake!  Can’t tell how hard a fish fought by looking at a picture! Hell, here in California we can’t even say HAWG, properly… Not even in southern California!

So you say you want bass, eh? Want some really fiesty bass? Not huge hawgs like you get in the southern US, but the smallmout bass here in Ontario are awesome. Get yourself up around Georgian Bay and bring some smallish poppers, nymphs, wooley buggers, crayfish imitations, etc. and hang on. I use a 6 wt 9 foot rod and I am in heaven.

Response:

DEAR JIM: There is a remarkable difference in staying power between soft and weak southern strains of bass compared to damned yankee bass found in Lake Erie or let us say in Wisconsin, etc.  A lot of it has to do with oxygen content but overall, southern bass on the average are soft and mushy fleshed.  Many other fishermen have noticed this also.  So if you’re going to make a choice, go north where the real fighting bass hang out.

George,   I don’t know where you got your information on "southern" bass. There is a largemouth strain that is called "Florida bass" and have been transplanted to many other parts of the country, even to places outside the South. Are you saying that there is less oxygen in the lakes and rivers in the South than in the northern parts of the country and the causes the bass to become weak and mushy fleshed. Thats crazy. I’ve caught bass from Canada to Florida. Admittedly, a five-pound smallmouth in Canada (which is a whopper there) gives one heck of a fight. But tie into one like that in Dale Hollow (look it up on a map) or on the Holston and tell me about "weak southern fish". Go to Rodman (knowing about southern fish I’m sure that you know where this is) and hook-up with a big largemouth in the stump fields and tell me that he is weak and mushy.    As far as the flesh of the Florida bass goes, its as firm and good-tasting as any that I’ve eaten.    These are, of course, only my opinions which are based on anecdotal information. What are yours based on? A priori opinions, I suspect. —

Response:

Question:

Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me? Thank you very much in advance!!! TCC

Response:

Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me?

Both ways are very acceptible and mastering good drifts on all compass points is a rewarding challenge. My only advise is: 1) learn a stealthful approach, you can get closer usually from downstream, but you would be amazed at fish pointing downstream because the current has eddied. 2) cast a short, light, controlled line with as long a tippet as you can stand. Good fishing. TimW

Response:

With this thread, I am reminded of 2 things. 1) The Colonel 2) Sgt. York 1.  In "Streamers" by the late great Col. Joseph Bates.  He describes a     ‘fan’ approach to covering waters.  You cast a short line in a fanned     arc, increasing the line length with each pass to avoid spooking fish.     Same with an upstream cast.  Start short and only count on a good drift     the length of the leader + any curve or reach put into it.  Increase the     length of the cast each time. 2.  In Sgt. York, the deadeye would pick off the krauts in the back of the formation.     Like shooting turkeys, so that the ones in front would not become alarmed. Good fishing my friends. TimW

Response:

Todd- When casting to a sighted trout, cast towards a spot a couple feet to the left or right of the fish and a several feet above the fish.  Just before the fly hits the water, give your rod a slight jerk to the left if the fish is to the right, to the right if the fish is left.  This will keep your line off the fish and the fly in his feeding lane.

What do should you do when casting to a blind trout? Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                           Tom McGuane

Response:

Thank you everyone for your tremendous help! I coudn’t have done it without you all. This is a letter I cc’d to a bunch of you who e-mailed me so I’ll just post it in its entirety here on the board. I’ll be sure to try out your casting suggestions in the future. Thanks again! Thanks once again for your fishing advice! I got one! The trout was about a foot long so I was quite pleased. After trying to tackle a fast-moving section of the river (with no success), I decided to check on a quiet pool that I knew about upriver. The pool occurs at an elbow in the river where the river suddenly drops to about 15 feet deep. While the surface appears smooth, the water is actually moving at a nice pace through the curve. At the corner of the elbow, a small jut occurs where the water is totally calm. I noticed some swirling in the quiet spot just off the moving water and then a little blip at the surface which looked like it might have been a fish surfacing. As luck would have it, I made a very nice cast which landing softly in the middle of the pool. Just as the dry fly landed and sat on the surface the trout took it! It was very exciting since this is my first fish taken fly fishing. I decided to let him go. Maybe I’ll meet him again next year! Thanks for your help, it really did make a difference. TCC Todd Cranston-Cuebas

Response:

: When fishing upstream, always work upstream.  I always walk the bank of a : river to scope out an area I would like to fish, then drop into the river : below the area and fish upstream.  IMHO, if I spook fish from their holding : pattern, they move towards the center of the river or deeper, thus not : spooking fish above. A good way to see how fish react to the fisherman is to watch a friend stalk the fish while you sit on the bank.  I have seen fish run upstream this way smack into other fish. This gets them excited and makes them spooky. I have also learned that if the fish is left alone for a while, it may return to it’s origional location.  And then I have also fish do just what you described. Jon Porter

Response:

…The best bet is to be sneaky, and stalk the fish just as if you were hunting them.

I’ve always thought fly fishing was more like hunting than fishing. -AR

Response:

I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream.

For total beginners: 1.  Don’t wade unless you must.  If so, 2.  First wade downstream, fishing across the current with a wet fly or nymph.  The water’s tension on the line will help you control it. 3.  Then wade upstream, with a dry (floating) fly, casting 45 degrees upstream.  When you see a fish rise, cast one yard above it, beginning a bit short to be on the safe side.   Don’t cast straight upstream, unless it is unavoidable;  you don’t want the fish to see your line, and it’s harder to keep control of the line the faster it drifts toward you. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me? Thank you very much in advance!!! TCC

I would think a new FF’er would have better luck with casting dry’s upstream (easier to get a proper drift) and wets cross or down stream. Once you get your confidence up then experimentation is the best part of the sport (IMHO). Steve

Response:

snip The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions correct?

Todd- When casting to a sighted trout, cast towards a spot a couple feet to the left or right of the fish and a several feet above the fish.  Just before the fly hits the water, give your rod a slight jerk to the left if the fish is to the right, to the right if the fish is left.  This will keep your line off the fish and the fly in his feeding lane. Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about this in the wrong way?

When fishing upstream, always work upstream.  I always walk the bank of a river to scope out an area I would like to fish, then drop into the river below the area and fish upstream.  IMHO, if I spook fish from their holding pattern, they move towards the center of the river or deeper, thus not spooking fish above. Bob Crossley — Bob Crossley

Response:

TimW Thank you for your reply. The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions correct? Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about this in the wrong way? Thanks! TCC Todd Cranston-Cuebas

Response:

WOO HOO!  This can cause quite a few arguments!  :) : The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the : thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a : trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over : it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions : correct? Yes. IF you line a trout (lay the line on top of it) it will gennerally spook and run away from you. The idea is to cast upstream at an angle so the the fly comes in from the side of the fish. The only part to drift over the fish would be the leader. This is the old "traditional" dry fly approach. By using this method, you are coming up on the fish from behind. They face upstream all the time because that is where the food comes from. : Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the : area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this : correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head : away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them : hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about : this in the wrong way? If the fish is spooked, it will usually run away from you. If you are fishing upstream, then the fish will run upstream, and vice-versa. And it’s movement could make the other fish that it runs past spooky. The real trouble with fishing downstream is that we tend to cause the water to cloud up when we walk in it. That may put the fish. So the old upstream approach remains popular.  But rules are made to be broken, and I have had some of my best fishing by casting downstream. The best bet is to be sneaky, and stalk the fish just as if you were hunting them. Jon Porter

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Question:

Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME

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Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman.

Hi Tim, Kauffman’s fly tying books are each devoted exclusively to either dries or nymphs – your local library is correct. He is the author of a pattern "directory" that includes both dries and nymphs entitled "Fly Patterns of Umpqua Feather Merchants". Best,   Alan.   Alan Barnard   Kiene’s Fly Shop   Sacramento, California   WWW Fly Tyer   http://www.ns.net/~barnard

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Tim, Try www.amazon.com — Donn Westervelt 72633,342 CIS

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: Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a : beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet : flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my : local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by : Mr. Kaufman. Yup.  He has a new dry fly book, and a revised version of his nymph book. When I had to choose two (ONLY TWO) books on tying flies, to learn from, these were the two.  The illustrations are in color, and are very clear…with tricky points clearly described.  He discusses standard techniques fully.  The patterns are laid out in a "progressive" order so that you can learn quite a bit by tying each pattern in order (I’m about 2/3 of the way through both books).  Or you can jump around to your favorite pattern.  There’s a pattern directory in the back, listing many patterns not covered in the text WITH color PICTURES.  Also, each chapter has a little one or two page story having something to do with that pattern.  ALSO, there are excellent discussions of materials and tools. I now own FIVE books on fly tying: Talleur’s intro book (for my son), two books of patterns, and Kaufman’s two newer books. I strongly recommend these two books for anyone learning to tie flies. — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster —–BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—– Version: 2.6.2 mQCNAzDtvLEAAAEEAKAC21G2Be0K0DMgjLpxrwLmsYfCz8rWcfgyABjr3Ryfk1dO nV7fFFpUF3xohR7die+/B2V9oqRQzTLeSF2ECKlsTY/yUyw2kn+P2ju1umh4Fwzd cVTvc+H69q1+Ft3kmw/PE0Pan+g0PUGGJ43stw3q4OgBHdixbRd/f9giJFDxAAUR tCZKYW1lcyBBLiBGb3N0ZXIgPGZvc3RlckBjcy51aWRhaG8uZWR1PokAlQMFEDD8 ReEXf3/YIiRQ8QEBFrAD/2AFuRWcD/3MENC3qJMC/Or1qxknjkK7Uv+TDf2LHPOY GHBbG9PyWuXQ8of0Dd+JYwf/tzlO9Yk1s1zTdikfriak21FW0bCokxDIhA3myppZ IZDWVA9CyvDYHuP5Ii1NkBvocab813JzDLZA+0iVN5sebGb9zSXR4Za47hlriHeP =RDHK —–END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—–

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Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME

Here’s a list of Randall Kaufmann’s books (I think it’s complete): American Nymph Fly Tying Manual (1975) Bonefishing with a Fly (1992) *The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual (1986) *Tying Dry Flies (1992) (there is also a revised edition) *Tying Nymphs (1992)         *= in-print Andy   A. M. Rapach–Angling Books Rare, Collectible & Used Angling      Books Bought and Sold <A HREF="http://www.westol.com/~andmr/fishbks"</A

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Randall Kaufmann has authored or coauthored several books covering fly tying and fly fishing for a variety of species. I think two books best suited for the beginning or advanced tyer are; Tying Nymphs, and Tying Dries. Randall is an excellent tier or tyer and has a gift of concise, easily understood writing. Vic’s Fly-By-Night Too much time spent tying Not enough fishing

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I got my first book on fly tying from the Federation of Fly Fishers. It is called an Introduction to Fly Tying by Al Beatty and Bob Lay. It only cost $2.00 plus S&H. I have since purchased a couple of videos by Al and they were really detailed. I don’t have his phone number but he often posts to this group. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME Here’s a list of Randall Kaufmann’s books (I think it’s complete): American Nymph Fly Tying Manual (1975) Bonefishing with a Fly (1992) *The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual (1986) *Tying Dry Flies (1992) (there is also a revised edition) *Tying Nymphs (1992)    *= in-print Andy  A. M. Rapach–Angling Books Rare, Collectible & Used Angling     Books Bought and Sold <A HREF="http://www.westol.com/~andmr/fishbks"</A

Add to the list: Lake Fishing with a Fly (1984) (co-authored with Ron Cordes) Fly Patterns of Umpqua Feather Merchants (1995) Tight lines Jay Whitworth

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