Question:

For Christmas one year, I got a large wooden "book like" router bit holder. and let me tell ya! It works great as a tackle holder, too!!! I sure got some funky looks for that one from my family……hopefully, I get another one this year! Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I keep my hooks, jigheads, and other such terminal gear in a Plano plastic box. The one I am using now has lids on each side. It would be much better if it opened like a book, or, err, uh, a fly box. I saw such a thing a Home Depot by Dewalt, but it is not quite big enough. It is *very* nice though. And, it might just be big enough… — Citizen Fisherman

Response:

What does it look like??? — regards, RichG

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For Christmas one year, I got a large wooden "book like" router bit holder. and let me tell ya! It works great as a tackle holder, too!!! I sure got some funky looks for that one from my family……hopefully, I get another one this year! Mike I keep my hooks, jigheads, and other such terminal gear in a Plano plastic box. The one I am using now has lids on each side. It would be much better if it opened like a book, or, err, uh, a fly box. I saw such a thing a Home Depot by Dewalt, but it is not quite big enough. It is *very* nice though. And, it might just be big enough… — Citizen Fisherman

Response:

It’s a hinged wooden box with compartments in the inside that hold bits. They are just the right size to hold a med spinnerbait that has the two ends squeezed together, various worms, rapala, etc.  good for when your shore fishing….even though I haven’t shore fished in years……. but, you can bring just the necessary stuff and that is it. Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What does it look like??? — regards, RichG For Christmas one year, I got a large wooden "book like" router bit holder. and let me tell ya! It works great as a tackle holder, too!!! I sure got some funky looks for that one from my family……hopefully, I get another one this year! Mike I keep my hooks, jigheads, and other such terminal gear in a Plano plastic box. The one I am using now has lids on each side. It would be much better if it opened like a book, or, err, uh, a fly box. I saw such a thing a Home Depot by Dewalt, but it is not quite big enough. It is *very* nice though. And, it might just be big enough… — Citizen Fisherman

Response:

Question:

We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too? See below….. On July 22, 16 brave players will walk into the Alaskan Bush. On July 27, only one will leave as Champion. This is more than a tournament, this is an experience of a lifetime. Wildball – as wild as it gets, Alaska. The First Annual Wilderness Limited Racquetball Clinic & Tournament July 22 to 27, 2001 Bentalit Lodge, Alaska http://www.racqcat.com/wiltour.html Clinics Conducted by: Andy Roberts – Former World Champion All Participants Receive: Ektelon’s newest highest rated racquet Exclusive Team Ektelon Clothing and Gear Nordica Hiking Shoes Participant’s Plaque and much more! The New Champion will receive: All of the above Winner’s Leather Jacket with Insignia Handcrafted Native Alaskan Spirit Mask Other Prizes and Recognition For Pricing & More Information: 422-6400. http://www.racqcat.com/wiltour.html Sponsors: Ektelon, The Trent Group, RacquetballCatalog.com and Reiter Pro Sales, Inc. General Manager www.theracquetballcatalog.com Sales: 1-866-4Gear77

Response:

We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too?

If you pay expenses I’ll be there. Considering the location, I’ll waive my customary appearance fee. By the way, is this round robin or single elimination? I hope it’s single elimination because I’ll lose my first match so I can do you-know-what. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

at 4500 a week you may want to play double elimination to get your monies worth. fishworship

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too?

Response:

Question:

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Cabela’s FT flyrods. I was thinking of the 9′ 9 weight for casting big pike flies and for salmon etc. I’d just like to know who the manufacturer is and whether they are really a fast action rod like they claim and what a comparable name brand would be. They claim to save you as much as $200 because they don’t sell their name. Does that mean that the $230 FT 9′ 9 weight is as good as a $430 name brand rod? Thanks James

Response:

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Cabela’s FT flyrods. I was thinking of the 9′ 9 weight for casting big pike flies and for salmon etc. I’d just like to know who the manufacturer is and whether they are really a fast action rod like they claim and what a comparable name brand would be. They claim to save you as much as $200 because they don’t sell their name. Does that mean that the $230 FT 9′ 9 weight is as good as a $430 name brand rod?

Cabelas has a great return policy so I suggest buying one and trying it. Maybe you can do a side by side comparison with a pricier rod. Remember, a rod needs to suit you. Peter G. Aitken

Response:

Does that mean that the $230 FT 9′ 9 weight is as good as a $430 name brand rod?

Lefty Kreh says any rod over $200 casts better than almost everyone buying it. Is it "as good as"?  Depends on what you mean.  For all practical purposes, if the action of the rod suits your style, it could be as good as or better than a $430 rod.  More money buys you a label, usually better fit and finish but not always, and better resale value. Regards, Jeff

Response:

More money buys you a label, usually better fit and finish but not always, and better resale value.

Amem brother, last weekend I was looking at some pricy Orvis stuff and noticed the tip sections were all a bit warped and twisted. No way I’d pay that price for a rod that wasn’t straight and true, even if I can’t cast good enough to do the rod justice. Flyfish

Response:

Does that mean that the $230 FT 9′ 9 weight is as good as a $430 name brand rod? Lefty Kreh says any rod over $200 casts better than almost everyone buying it. Is it "as good as"?  Depends on what you mean.  For all practical purposes, if the action of the rod suits your style, it could be as good as or better than a $430 rod.  More money buys you a label, usually better fit and finish but not always, and better resale value. Regards, Jeff

Lefty actually says any rod over $100! Peter G. Aitken

Response:

More money buys you a label, usually better fit and finish but not always, and better resale value. Amem brother, last weekend I was looking at some pricy Orvis stuff and noticed the tip sections were all a bit warped and twisted. No way I’d pay that price for a rod that wasn’t straight and true, even if I can’t cast good enough to do the rod justice.

One thing to consider is that some rods come with a guarantee against breakage regardless of the cause. I have heard for example that if you break an L.L.Bean rod and call them, then if FedEx can find you, you will have a replacement the next day. This is a practical reason to pay a bit more for a rod, particularly if you are a klutz like me. Peter G. Aitken

Response:

One thing to consider is that some rods come with a guarantee against breakage regardless of the cause. I have heard for example that if you break an L.L.Bean rod and call them, then if FedEx can find you, you will have a replacement the next day. This is a practical reason to pay a bit more for a rod, particularly if you are a klutz like me.

Yeah you’re right, I left that out.  That’s an important point.  A lot of the "top dollar" rods offer that and it’s nothing to sneeze at! Regards, Jeff

Response:

The only guarantee I would ever pay extra money for, is if they guarantee that I will live a hundred years to fish with it. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Lefty actually says any rod over $100!

Now that you hold me to it, I can’t remember where I read it.  What book is that from?  Thanks, Jeff Regards, Jeff

Response:

The only guarantee I would ever pay extra money for, is if they guarantee that I will live a hundred years to fish with it.

Sure, I’ll give you that guarantee. If you die you can sue me! Peter Aitken

Response:

It is in Advanced Fly Fishing Techniques – a terrific book, by the way, for those who have not read it. Peter Aitken

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Lefty actually says any rod over $100! Now that you hold me to it, I can’t remember where I read it.  What book is that from?  Thanks, Jeff Regards, Jeff

Response:

I think Cabela’s uses Loomis blanks for their higher priced rods. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Cabela’s FT flyrods. I was thinking of the 9′ 9 weight for casting big pike flies and for salmon etc. I’d just like to know who the manufacturer is and whether they are really a fast action rod like they claim and what a comparable name brand would be. They claim to save you as much as $200 because they don’t sell their name. Does that mean that the $230 FT 9′ 9 weight is as good as a $430 name brand rod? Thanks James

Response:

Cabela’s FT flyrods. I’d just like to know who the manufacturer is

Call Cabela’s and ask them!  That’s what I did.  I bought a nice 7 1/2 ft 4 wt several years ago that was made by Loomis. Sig Chicago

Response:

Cabela’s FT flyrods. I’d just like to know who the manufacturer is Call Cabela’s and ask them!  That’s what I did.  I bought a nice 7 1/2 ft 4 wt several years ago that was made by Loomis. Sig Chicago

Some time back I did ask them.  They refused to say.  A while back they were selling a very excellent fly reel that I thought was probably made by Ross.  They wouldn’t say on that one either.  Even though I was looking for parts they couldn’t supply.

Response:

Question:

I went to a small creek nearby my home in central PA a couple of nights ago to continue my on the water "education" of fly fishing.  I had been to this same creek a couple of times recently and had success catching a few 10-12 inch brook trout (when I actually got my fly to go where I wanted it to!). I found a nice deep pool in this very small stream where a tree had fallen across the creek and caused a natural dam.  I could see several trout feeding there and hitting something on top so I started casting with a dry fly (Elk Hair Caddis, I think it’s called) and hooked a nice brook trout on my second or third cast. Being that the weather has been warm and the water level pretty low, I tried to bring the fish to hand as quickly as possible and don’t think I over played the trout at all.  I kept it mostly in the water to unhook it but it was a barbed hook and the trout was bleeding slightly from its lower jaw.  I got the hook out fairly quickly and made sure the trout was revived before letting it swim away…or so I thought. I kept fishing the hole for another ten or fifteen minutes and caught one more much smaller trout and released it.  Then I started to walk upstream to find another pool and I saw a shining gleam from the edge of the deep pool and realized that the first fish I caught was turned upside down in the hole and caught up on some debris and was in fact dying.  I didn’t have a net with me so I tried to get it with a stick to take it home but could not get it and stirred up so much muck that I lost sight of it. I move on but kept trying to figure out what must have gone wrong or what "rookie" mistake did I do to cause it to die. Is there a point where the water conditions just will not allow a trout to live if caught?  I don’t know what the water temp. was but I’m sure it was fairly warm (I am going to buy a stream thermometer but have not gotten one yet). Also, do most fly fisherman carry a creel just in case one dies during C&R? Please let me know if there is anything more I could have done to revive the trout.  BTW I am going to debarb my hooks from now on also. Tim

Response:

I went to a small creek nearby my home in central PA a couple of nights ago

Tom – central PA has been hot and dry this spring.  Streams are low and warm. My educated guess would be water temperature – which lowers the oxygen content and on a stressed fish could well be fatal.    by the way, 10-12 inch brookies are good size for around here, so there are some nice fish in that stream. Mark Faulkner

Response:

Hi Tim, There are several possibilities here. The first one is that it was just too warm, and the fish died because of combined stress and heat. It is best not to fish above certain temperatures, if you wish to release the fish, as the fish suffers  too much stress and often dies. Overplaying a fish will kill it as well. The other possibility is that it bled to death. Even a small hole in a fish which bleeds for a while will kill the fish fairly quickly. Fish do not have coagulating agents in their blood like mammals, and can not afford to lose much blood anyway. I have seen quite a few large Seatrout bleed to death quite quickly ( much less than half an hour in several cases ), after being released apparently unharmed. The probable cause of death was given as "blood depletion resulting in oxygen transfer  failure" by a laboratory which examined a couple of the dead fish.  In all the cases mentioned ( only two of the fish mentioned were actually examined by a professional lab), the hole left by the hook was fairly small, but obviously of a position and size sufficient to cause fatal blood loss. Several fish showed signs of distress fairly quickly, and only slight water staining ( blood ) was apparent from the mouth region when they were released. The fish mentioned were found fairly quickly at the pool outlets, and their gills were already looking a very unhealthy whitish pink colour, instead of the normal bright red. If a fish bleeds very much at all then you can write it off usually, it will not survive long. Surprisingly enough fish will often survive fairly major bodily injuries, like gashes from nets, or seals etc, especially in salt water, as long as they do not bleed too much. If they bleed however they are usually doomed. We catch quite a few fish which have been "stabbed" by herons, and they often survive this as long as they do not bleed from the gash, or are attacked by fungal or other parasites. Every year where I used to live in England we also had quite a few fish damaged by fungus etc, after being hooked and released. UDN was prevalent at the time, but this seemed to be a different sort of fungus, often originating at a hole caused by a hook, especially in the sides of the lower jaw, and also in many cases obviously by anglers handling fish with hot dry hands, the imprints left from this could be clearly seen on occasion. Has nothing to do with your problem of course, but I thought I would mention it anyway.  If you are going to handle fish, do so only with cool wet hands, and if possible avoid touching them at all, even slight damage to the protective slime will leave the fish open to disease etc. Rough dry nets are just as bad, knotted nylon being among the worst. If you fish catch and release it is easier to release fish if you use barbless hooks. Hope this helps. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

Tim,   It’s possible you caught a fish that had be caught and released earlier that day or previous night. Lot’s of really good flyfishers are working those streams in the Central PA area.   If you’re new to the sport, check out Flyfishers’ Paradise in State College. They provided me with alot of great advice, and I bought alot of first rate equipment and supplies from them. Good Luck

Response:

Tim, If you saw any blood at all, the fish probably died from blood loss. I’m sure the high water temp didn’t help either. You need to get a stream thermometer. Personally, I won’t fish water above 70 deg if I don’t intend to keep what I catch, and if I notice any bleeding from a fish, I will kill it unless the reg’s prohibit it. George Adams

Response:

Just like anyone else in this group that practices Catch and Release it is really bad to see something like that that.  That fish will not just float and rot away.  That fish will make an excellent meal for others in its food chain.  Wether it be another fish, a fox, Racoon, Bear, otter, ect.  That fish will not go to waste.  I am not saying when you fish not to use extreme care when practicing Catch and Release but sometimes a problem like such can and does happen. Tight Lines and Warm Barrels. Jeremiah Weed

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Tim, There are several possibilities here. The first one is that it was just too warm, and the fish died because of combined stress and heat. It is best not to fish above certain temperatures, if you wish to release the fish, as the fish suffers  too much stress and often dies. Overplaying a fish will kill it as well. The other possibility is that it bled to death. Even a small hole in a fish which bleeds for a while will kill the fish fairly quickly. Fish do not have coagulating agents in their blood like mammals, and can not afford to lose much blood anyway. I have seen quite a few large Seatrout bleed to death quite quickly ( much less than half an hour in several cases ), after being released apparently unharmed. The probable cause of death was given as "blood depletion resulting in oxygen transfer  failure" by a laboratory which examined a couple of the dead fish.  In all the cases mentioned ( only two of the fish mentioned were actually examined by a professional lab), the hole left by the hook was fairly small, but obviously of a position and size sufficient to cause fatal blood loss. Several fish showed signs of distress fairly quickly, and only slight water staining ( blood ) was apparent from the mouth region when they were released. The fish mentioned were found fairly quickly at the pool outlets, and their gills were already looking a very unhealthy whitish pink colour, instead of the normal bright red. If a fish bleeds very much at all then you can write it off usually, it will not survive long. Surprisingly enough fish will often survive fairly major bodily injuries, like gashes from nets, or seals etc, especially in salt water, as long as they do not bleed too much. If they bleed however they are usually doomed. We catch quite a few fish which have been "stabbed" by herons, and they often survive this as long as they do not bleed from the gash, or are attacked by fungal or other parasites. Every year where I used to live in England we also had quite a few fish damaged by fungus etc, after being hooked and released. UDN was prevalent at the time, but this seemed to be a different sort of fungus, often originating at a hole caused by a hook, especially in the sides of the lower jaw, and also in many cases obviously by anglers handling fish with hot dry hands, the imprints left from this could be clearly seen on occasion. Has nothing to do with your problem of course, but I thought I would mention it anyway.  If you are going to handle fish, do so only with cool wet hands, and if possible avoid touching them at all, even slight damage to the protective slime will leave the fish open to disease etc. Rough dry nets are just as bad, knotted nylon being among the worst. If you fish catch and release it is easier to release fish if you use barbless hooks. Hope this helps. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

One thing I have learned over the years is that if you hook a trout in the gills it will bleed to death so you might as well have it for dinner. Ernie Harrison Like to make fly-fishing stuff?  See: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh/

Response:

The other possibility is that it bled to death. Even a small hole in a fish which bleeds for a while will kill the fish fairly quickly. Fish do not have coagulating agents in their blood like mammals, and can not afford to lose much blood anyway.

I agree with Mike on this one. In my experience, a bleeding fish ends up a dead fish. Nowadays, if a fish I catch bleeds, I don’t mess around: it gets whacked straight away. Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

Response:

Question:

I’ll be in southern Alabama in July–Eastern Mobile Bay/Gulf Shores area–and in addition to surf fishing hope to do some flyfishing as well. Has anyone had any experience in this area? Any locations to recommend? I’ve noted a Weeks Bay wildlife area, as well as some other bays and lagoons…what’s running in July and what flys will call up the fish? Any info is appreciated, and thanks.         JK/Newport, KY

Response:

I’ll be in southern Alabama in July–Eastern Mobile Bay/Gulf Shores area–and in addition to surf fishing hope to do some flyfishing as well. Has anyone had any experience in this area? Any locations to recommend? I’ve noted a Weeks Bay wildlife area, as well as some other bays and lagoons…what’s running in July and what flys will call up the fish? Any info is appreciated, and thanks.

I have fished Fort Morgan & Gulf Shores area for many years.  A few years ago I began Saltwater Fly fishing with decent success.  If you fish early in the morning and late in the afternoon you stand a chance of catching Bluefish, Skipjack (ladyfish), occasional redfish, and speckled trout.  Mostly fish clouser minnows, and basically any minnow pattern in white or yellow base color.  We have had much luck attaching a popper to the line about 18 to 24 inches above the fly.  If you happen to catch a school of feeding fish close to the beach, you are in for much excitement.  Plan on using a shooting taper line or a floating line with a sink tip.  The wind can be tough at times and casting is a bear.  Best of Luck,  BCC

Response:

Question:

Hi John, I have been using poppers made by the Accardo Tackle Co., 3708 Conrad Drive, Baton Rouge, LA 70805 for some time. They seem to hold up very well as long as no tooth critter hits it. I have no connection with this company. Jack in Tn.

Response:

I’m amazed nobody responded with the following name (remember it well!): Bob’s Lucky Day Lures in Dumfries, Virginia. This guy typically advertises in one (or more) of the major FF periodicals, and his poppers are BOMBPROOF. In fact, he guarantees them for at least 100 landed fish. He sells a wide range of sizes and styles. The bodies are made of high-quality, closed-cell yellow foam on Daichi hooks. You can literally drive over one of these with your car and they won’t come apart! Email me if you can’t find his ad or number and I’ll dig it up. Scott Wilkinson

Response:

There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place.

That would be The Bass Pond – in Denver. I don’t have their phone number or address but I’m sure they’re still in business. They carry quality warm water fly fishing gear.

Response:

We sell Mustad 33903 kink shank popper hooks in sizes 1 to size 14–$5.95 per box of 100 and size 1/0 is $6.35 per box of 100.  We also sell assortment packages we put together ourselves.  This way our customers can get several different sizes without breaking the bank or buying too many of one hook size–they can also tell, pretty quickly, which sizes they will need to eventually purchase in larger quantities. Each 33903 assortment  package is $7.25.  The large sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 1/0, 1, 2, 4, & 6.  The medium sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, & 10.  The small sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 6, 8, 10, 12, & 14. We have practically stopped using the foam poppers altogether and have switched to poppers we make using Softex and Flexo tubing.  They are practically indestructible, can be tied in huge variety of sizes and shapes (we also make sliders), and can be colored very effectively with permanent markers.  Because of the versatility of the materials and ability to custom tailor the design, we’ve found them to be hugely productive–even more so than the foam poppers. We sell AirHead (Flexo) Poppers in our mail order catalog, as well as the Flexo tubing and Softex.  We have an introductory package which includes a jar of Softex and 5 yards of assorted sizes of Flexo tubing available for $16.95.  We have a three page brochure and instruction sheet on working with Softex and Flexo we’d be happy to send anyone who is interested. For a free copy of our mail order catalog or information on Softex/Flexo, send us email or call us toll-free at 1-888-200-0364. Lauren Hart Brazos FlyFishers   http://www.brazosflyfishers.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

Try www.fishypete.com the prices there are a lot lower than most places.

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere.

        There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place. Also, you might want to look at getting in touch with the Arbogast Co. out of Ohio I think. They now own the "Hank Roberts" line of stuff, and I’ve always been fairly happy with their bugs, but I don’t think they make foam stuff like you are talking about. I’ve used the foam, but have not really found any bugs that have the right combo of weight, lack of wind resistance, high flotation and etc. for some reason. Maybe have not tried enough? So I use lots of the "Sneaky Pete’s" which are made by ??? (Hank Roberts Co.?) But, one thing I tried a few years ago after reading an article in an old FF mag was to make my own foam poppers. You buy the bass bug hook and then a pair of those stupid semi-hard foam "flip-flops" for your feet at your local K-Mart in whatever color that strikes your fancy. You then cut out the popper body from the sole foam in whatever size/shape you want, cut a slit in the bottom which fits over the hook and Crazy Glue it on. Wind on some hackle in back and maybe a tail or two and that’s it. No need for fancy tying skills. Amazingly, they worked great for me. Just the right combo of weight, high flotation, castability and etc. The only problem I had was with cutting a decent body, or at least one that looked decent to me, but then again as my mother put it years ago when trying to teach me cursive writing, my fine-motor skills need work.         Good luck. tgb

Response:

Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. — Custom Internet Applications John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416 http://www.cianow.com "Creating websites that work!"

Hi John, We carry the Umpqua hard bodied poppers that come in Red/white or Frog that have a good Tiemco hook in them for $3.50 and the Spirit River foam poppers that come in Yellow, Black or Green with a quality hook at $2.95. We also carry the Ganes poppers in lots of sizes and colors that are made in the USA with Mustad hooks at about $2.49. I recommend using 0x to 2x tippet on these poppers so you don’t loose them or that giant bass. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Generally, unless you are doing  a lot of work for the toothier critters like pike and muskie (or unless you are in the salt…) I think the Gaines products are very adequate for the price.  I fish them in fairly small sizes (6-10) for smallmouth and usually lose the paint job far before I get a disconnect between the body and the hook, and they become useless.  Each one seeoms to be good for about 30-40 bass or 50 direct  hits on boulders, whichever comes first.  I also suspect (but do not know for certain..) that the Gaines poppers are also sold under Cortland’s name, as well as several others.  They are US made in northern Potter county, PA by squadrons of little old ladies with tattoos on their arms and Marsh-Wheelings (the world’s only cigar that the more you smoke it, the longer it gets…) clamped in their teeth..:).  They are good poppers.  

Response:

Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to

make my own!  I used to

be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described.

I just started tying my own bass poppers and flies using both hard bodies and deer hair.  I’ve been tying my own trout flies for a long time, but bass bug making is a whole new world – maybe in another 10 years I’ll get good at it!  :-)     You can get the hooks you mentioned from the Hook & Hackle Company. ‘Sorry, I’m at work and don’t have their catalog in front of me, but they are a big outfit and shouldn’t be hard to find….  They also carry pre-formed cork bodies, paint, and everything else you need to get started.  The hard (cork) bodied poppers are not difficult to tie, and would be a good place to start.  Try getting Dick Stewart’s book, which is entitled something like _Tying Bass Flies_.  The title may be off, but it’s the best book on the subject I have found.  Spinning and working with deer hair is a bit difficult to master, but if you already tie deer hair bodies trout flies, (like Muddler Minnows, Adams Irresistibles, etc.), you’ll have a head start.  Actually, these patterns also make good bass flies when tied in really large sizes. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

  ‘Hope this helps.   Cheers, and tight lines,   -Mark

Response:

Question:

hi all, has anyone done any FFishing in Turks Caicos.  i’m going there for my honeymoone and need to know if i should pack my 7 weight! thanks in advance! -eric — Oracle DBA                     GE Fanuc                      Phone:  (804) 978-5945

Response:

hi all, has anyone done any FFishing in Turks Caicos.  i’m going there for my honeymoone and need to know if i should pack my 7 weight! thanks in advance! -eric — Oracle DBA                     GE Fanuc                  Phone:  (804) 978-5945

I say yes, my wife says no (and with great emphasis I might add). David726 E-mail for further assistance to:

Response:

hi all, has anyone done any FFishing in Turks Caicos.  i’m going there for my honeymoone and need to know if i should pack my 7 weight! thanks in advance! -eric — Oracle DBA                     GE Fanuc                      Phone:  (804) 978-5945

You better have the right woman to try fishing on your honeymoon.  Luckily I do.  We took our ‘moon in Nantucket and I went fishing one day.  Got a few striper too.  If it’s okay with her I would say bring it and find out about the opportunities lsater. — Gordon Churchill Flyfish NC http://www.planet-nc.com/flyfishnc/ Striped Bass on the Roanoke River, Hybrids on Jordan Lake, Largemouths on surface.  Pickup and dropoff in Research Triangle Park

Response:

If you’re going on a honeymoon, you are taking the wrong rod! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -hi all, has anyone done any FFishing in Turks Caicos.  i’m going there for my honeymoone and need to know if i should pack my 7 weight! thanks in advance! -eric — Oracle DBA                     GE Fanuc                  Phone:  (804) 978-5945

Response:

Question:

I have been a fly fisherman for years and have always told myself "next week I’m going to start tying my own".  But unforseen occurences and the availability of a few good buddies who are excellent tyers have kept me from it.  Well, now I’m ready, but I would like input on a good "Starter Kit".  Something I won’t have to replace quickly, but one that is also fairly easy to start using. Thanks in advance.

Response:

I have been a fly fisherman for years and have always told myself "next week I’m going to start tying my own".  But unforseen occurences and the availability of a few good buddies who are excellent tyers have kept me from it.  Well, now I’m ready, but I would like input on a good "Starter Kit".  Something I won’t have to replace quickly, but one that is also fairly easy to start using.

You might want to drop in on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying then. The general consensus there is that most beginners kits are not very good and that you’re better off buying only the necessary, but of decent quality, picking a few patterns that you’d like to tie, and then buying the materials necessary to tie them.  Come on over to rofft and we’ll give some specific recommendations on vices other tools, and some good patterns to start with. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems – Ithaca, NY

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been a fly fisherman for years and have always told myself "next week I’m going to start tying my own".  But unforseen occurences and the availability of a few good buddies who are excellent tyers have kept me from it.  Well, now I’m ready, but I would like input on a good "Starter Kit".  Something I won’t have to replace quickly, but one that is also fairly easy to start using. You might want to drop in on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying then. The general consensus there is that most beginners kits are not very good and that you’re better off buying only the necessary, but of decent quality, picking a few patterns that you’d like to tie, and then buying the materials necessary to tie them.  Come on over to rofft and we’ll give some specific recommendations on vices other tools, and some good patterns to start with. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems – Ithaca, NY

I started out with a simple kit from Bass Pro shops for 35.00 I have since added the type of materials that I want to use to tie flys. It’s very addicting!!! Be careful…  My wife dosen’t know if I like tying the lures or actually using them.  Get a decent book from the library that shows you the recipe for the particular flies you want to tie. Then go from there..  Happy Fishing Sandman

Response:

Question:

Hi all you FF addicts, I have been a lurker for too long on this list, let me introduce myself. I am a Dutch flyfisher, fishing & tying my own flies for about six or seven years now (somehow I lost track). I fish mainly in Holland for anything that eats flies and nymphs, and once or twice (if lucky) a year abroad for trout and grayling. I will try to attend the Flyfair at the 4th and the 5th of May in Holland. I say try, because I hope my firstborn-to-be will behave itself and will be born nicely on the calculated date, one week later. Anyway, I intend to buy a new rod there, a 9 foot AFTMA 5-6, and would appreciate your opinions on what to buy and what not. Money IS kind of a subject for me, so I’m looking at the middle range brands. TIA and tight lines, Herman Nijland Utrecht, Netherlands

Response:

 Money IS kind of a subject for me, so I’m looking at the middle range brands.

Hello Herman, There are plenty of "middle-range" fly rods to chose from.  I would suggest on of the companies that gives a lifetime warranty.  Some of these rods include the Sage DS series and Redington.  They run about $255 for the Sage 590 DS kit which includes rod, reel, line and backing.  The Redington rods run about $105.   Good luck with your fishing and Congratulations on the new child. Paul Johnson

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all you FF addicts, I have been a lurker for too long on this list, let me introduce myself. I am a Dutch flyfisher, fishing & tying my own flies for about six or seven years now (somehow I lost track). I fish mainly in Holland for anything that eats flies and nymphs, and once or twice (if lucky) a year abroad for trout and grayling. I will try to attend the Flyfair at the 4th and the 5th of May in Holland. I say try, because I hope my firstborn-to-be will behave itself and will be born nicely on the calculated date, one week later. Anyway, I intend to buy a new rod there, a 9 foot AFTMA 5-6, and would appreciate your opinions on what to buy and what not. Money IS kind of a subject for me, so I’m looking at the middle range brands. TIA and tight lines, Herman Nijland Utrecht, Netherlands

OK, good luck with your boy/girl?, anyway (you should already think abot looking for a second rod, I think it makes a great gift for=  the first birthday). OK, here some suugestions for you. Since I appreciate SAGE fly rods very much (that’s simply because they are = the best performing fly rods made here in the USA) I would suggest to look at their rods. Since you are looking for something in the=  middle price range have a closer look at the DS series- they are in the mid price range and perform real well. OK, SAGE makes faste= r and more powerful rods, but they cost twice as much. The DS series has a medium fast action with still lots of backbone and is ver= y pleasant to cast. They have a 5wt in 8 and 9ft, also in 4 piece (4piece is maybe worth a thought if you travel with your rod- e.g.=  graylingfishing in denmark (Velje Au etc…) or the mountain lakes in Jotunheimen in Norway!). Since you are in europe you will probably also see european rod makers. Have a closer look at RST (Made in Germany). The RST feeling=  series is in the mid price range and they are all exceptional rods (I personally would prefer it even over SAGE!). If you have the = chance cast a M3, thats their high end (unfortunately high price) rod series – IMO the best on the market (it’s very similar to the = SAGE SP series, only  better!). If you like the slow rods more look at Hardys Favourite FT (the FT is important since it means that this is the fast action series, = the normal Favourite is too slow). They are not real fast rods, but comparatively fast rods for a Hardy rod. In general Hardy rods a= re relatively slow rods but they cast like a dream. But don’t try to pick up 20 m of line with them, they won’t do the job (OK, with=  special pick up techniques you can overcome this problem to a certain point.- They are nice dry fly rods or small nymph rods but no= t pleasant to fish with streamers or other heavy stuff and they are to slow for fast alpine sreams.). Hope that helps                   Thomas

Response:

In a message about ‘Re: New rod??’, Thomas Urbig Have a closer look at RST (Made in Germany). The RST feeling series is in the mid price range and they are all exceptional rods (I personally would prefer it even over SAGE!).

You gotta be kidding! The RST rods I’ve tried can’t come close to any Sage’s shadow. RST rods feels very unresponsive as well as extremly stiff. For affordable rods, I’d try the Penns. Haven’t tried the new Redingtons. The first series didn’t impress me. CU, Jay Lee (Capelle a/d IJssel, The Netherlands)

Response:

Hi,   Somebody posted an article in this thread where he/she gave a good opinion on the "St.Croix" rods (I can’t find the article in the group anymore). Anyway; I would like to know if the rod referred to was the "pro series" which really is a bargain at $70. Any other thoughts on the St.Croix rods?? Cheers,         Pete. —  Peter Sollander, CERN ST/MC/TCR  Tel: (+41) 22.767.8081          Fax: (+41) 22.767.8910        

Response:

: Hi, :   Somebody posted an article in this thread where he/she gave a good opinion : on the "St.Croix" rods (I can’t find the article in the group anymore). : Anyway; I would like to know if the rod referred to was the "pro series" : which really is a bargain at $70. Yep. : Any other thoughts on the St.Croix rods?? The 4-piece travel rods are a fabulous value. I haven’t tried the higher-end models. –mike

Response:

  I own several st.croix flyrods. for the past 6yrs i think there great rods for the money. i’ve had one break while salmon fishing.my dealer sent it back and they sent me a naw one at no cost.and the rod they sent me was the next step up from the one i had break.so for me for the money there the rod to have.

Response:

Question:

I fished at Lee’s Ferry last year in early May and it was pretty fun. All the action was under the water (Wooly Buggers worked for me). I fished with a Bill McBurney (local guide) and had a good day. The scenary is beautiful and quite unique.  The movie Broken Arrow was filmed in and around Marble Canyon fyi.–Kevin

Response:

I’m planning a golf vacation in Scottsdale, Arizona in late March / early April and I wanted to take a few days and drive up near the Grand Canyon to do some fly fishing.  I understand that Lee’s Ferry is a great river and that it’s only 4-5 hours from Scottsdale. Check out Dave Foster’s Lee’s Ferry report on the Arizona Fishing Page on the Net.  email me if you can’t find it and I’ll send you the url.  Dave’s

www.primenet.com/anglers/ . Unfortunately your timing to the area couldn’t be worse as there is a spike flow scheduled for a week or so starting the last week of March. Will likely be unfishable during this time. Sorry. The above mentioned web site gives more info on this. Joel McMillin

Response:

I’m planning a golf vacation in Scottsdale, Arizona in late March / early April and I wanted to take a few days and drive up near the Grand Canyon to do some fly fishing.  I understand that Lee’s Ferry is a great river and that it’s only 4-5 hours from Scottsdale. How’s the river been fishing?  Do you recommend a guide to get acquainted?  What would expect the weather to be like?  Are they accomodations, food, etc..  Also, are there fly shops with flies and other necessary gear? What’s the easiest way to get there?  I assume just by driving straight north of Scottsdale by car. Thank you very much.  

Response:

I’m planning a golf vacation in Scottsdale, Arizona in late March / early April and I wanted to take a few days and drive up near the Grand Canyon to do some fly fishing.  I understand that Lee’s Ferry is a great river and that it’s only 4-5 hours from Scottsdale. How’s the river been fishing?  Do you recommend a guide to get acquainted?  What would expect the weather to be like?  Are they accomodations, food, etc..  Also, are there fly shops with flies and other necessary gear? What’s the easiest way to get there?  I assume just by driving straight north of Scottsdale by car.

Check out Dave Foster’s Lee’s Ferry report on the Arizona Fishing Page on the Net.  email me if you can’t find it and I’ll send you the url.  Dave’s chance to catch 10-20 16-20" fish in a day.  Unfortunately there is only a small section of the river that can be fished without a boat, the boat being needed to get up stream to wade the gravel bars where most of the good fishing occurs.  There are 2 good lodges with decent restaurants at very reasonable rates, Lee’s Ferry  Lodge and Marble Canyon Lodge.  There is a good fly shop at Lee’s Ferry Lodge. Good luck.

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