Question:

Friday, December 12, 1997     8:34:01 PM I make a small stream fly fishing magazine on the internet.  Dedicated to the small stream enthusiast, the site contains articles freshly penned by John Shewey, (Ron Cordes and Gary LaFontain soon).  Equipment and techniques, all of the areas that I think you may want to review.  I hope that you enjoy the site as much as the fly anglers who have already visited. Thank you very much, adam Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

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… Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

This site is really quite nice. I’d like to see more photos and text describing the surrounding wildlife: trees, birds, etc. Your photos are very good; it’s nice seeing pictures of the fish not all dominated by the fisher!                            - jqt –

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Question:

Offering guided trips to some of the best tailwater rivers in the east. 16 years flyfishing experience.  Float (16′ Clackacraft) or wade trips (private access) available.  Reservations available July 28-Aug.3.  E-mail for rates to: Tight Lines and Screaming Reels Southern Style!  

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Question:

I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are there any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded out during that time with reasonable access to wading. Thanks for any advice. Brent Buckley

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: I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are : there : any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded : out during that time with reasonable access to wading. Sure, take a look through the entire N. Idaho region.  St. Joe, Lochsa, Selway, St. Maries, Marble Creek, Clearwater (all forks), …etc. All will be very high water.  I would guess the St. Joe might be the best option by end of June. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    : I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are    : there    : any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded    : out during that time with reasonable access to wading.    Sure, take a look through the entire N. Idaho region.  St. Joe, Lochsa,    Selway, St. Maries, Marble Creek, Clearwater (all forks), …etc. But don’t neglect the Washington side of the Clearwater and lakes such as Lenore, Lenice, Amber to the west.  There are some pleasant small lakes around Lewiston, too.   — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster pgp key available at: ftp://ftp.cs.uidaho.edu/pub/foster/pgp-key.asc

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Question:

Hi  I would like to know what licenses I need for flyfishing in Finnmark, Norway??

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Hi  I would like to know what licenses I need for flyfishing in Finnmark, Norway??

Try this URL: http://www.flyshop.no — Esa Niemel

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Hi I’m sure you will get good answers from this group but I notice you are on AOL. Check the fishing reports at keyword FBN. That may help as well. Happy Holidays. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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The two bodies of water that I usually fish are the Rose River off of Skyline Drive and Mossy Creek in the Shenandoah Valley.  I’ve only fished dry flies and haven’t got the slightest idea on how to approach nymph fishing, for that matter what nymphs to fish.  I would venture to say that I’ve caught the bug and won’t let a little inclimate weather frighten me off.  Is this the right approach, or should I hang it up until the Spring?

No way, dude. When I lived in MD, I fished Big Hunting Creek in Thurmont 12 mos/yr. In fact, the bigest browns I caught in that great stream were both in Januarys.  Fished the typical nymphs: Hare’s Ear in brown and olive, Pheasant Tails, etc. Nothin fancy. Just fish ‘em deep with a sloooooow retrieve. I laid it right at the mouths of these fish and they couldn’t resist. Of course, when the water’s that cold, the fish aren’t very active, that is until they realize they have a hook in their kype. Another bennie: since you are a beginner (tho, who isn’t?), winter fishing gives you time to work on technique and most importantly, patience. Plus, there are fewer folks around to feel intimidated by. So stick with it. -cst

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Ditto CST–I’ll be on Big Hunting Creek tomorrow.  Nymphs are fine and streamers are also fine.  Nymph one way, then streamer yourself home.  I like a shockingly large brown or tan or olive and black bullet-head woolly bugger.  Big rainbows will eat those too;  and Mossy’s got some humongous brownies that love meat. Dave

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I’m somewhat of a novice at fly fishing, but I wanted to get some input from the more experienced fly fishermen concerning winter fishing.  I’ve done some reading on fishing in the winter, but wanted to be armed with a little more info before I head out to freeze. The two bodies of water that I usually fish are the Rose River off of Skyline Drive and Mossy Creek in the Shenandoah Valley.  I’ve only fished dry flies and haven’t got the slightest idea on how to approach nymph fishing, for that matter what nymphs to fish.  I would venture to say that I’ve caught the bug and won’t let a little inclimate weather frighten me off.  Is this the right approach, or should I hang it up until the Spring?

Dave, There’s also a free magazine which is available at most of the VA fly shops which will lead you to the right patterns year round, and offers tips on winter fishing techniques in our state. Look for it at Orvis shops, Harry Murray’s place and others. Keith in Waterford, VA

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Hey Dave,        I went on Christmas day to a small brook trout stream on Catoctin Mt. and used a size 16 unweighted hares ear, a small split shot and a piece of orvis clay strike indicator and caught brookies on the edge of flowing water. I was fighting to keep the guides clear of ice and there wasn’t any casting room but it was a lot of fun.(very light tackle).I used a dead drift in combination with a line hand gather retrieve. They seemed to be more ready to take on the retrieve than the drift. Just fish near flowing water not really in it. Good luck, John

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I’m somewhat of a novice at fly fishing, but I wanted to get some input from the more experienced fly fishermen concerning winter fishing.  I’ve done some reading on fishing in the winter, but wanted to be armed with a little more info before I head out to freeze.   The two bodies of water that I usually fish are the Rose River off of Skyline Drive and Mossy Creek in the Shenandoah Valley.  I’ve only fished dry flies and haven’t got the slightest idea on how to approach nymph fishing, for that matter what nymphs to fish.  I would venture to say that I’ve caught the bug and won’t let a little inclimate weather frighten me off.  Is this the right approach, or should I hang it up until the Spring?

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Question:

It’s pretty sad when the first post to a new group, fly tying, is SPAM. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The FISHING LOG is a Powerful Software Program for Windows  It tracks every aspect of your fishing trips/sessions in great detail. It is colorful, extremely powerful and very user friendly. Keeps track of just about anything you can think of in Fresh Water or Salt. It is a large program of research quality but you can just keep up the sections YOU wish. Export data to other programs for analysis, printing  and charting. The best part is that if you download it yourself it is FREE. Mind that the last characters in the WWW address are all UPPERCASE!                 Bob Sheedy                Master Angler http://www.mbnet.mb.ca/~sheedyr/FISHING.HTM

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The FISHING LOG is a Powerful Software Program for Windows  It tracks every aspect of your fishing trips/sessions in great detail. It is colorful, extremely powerful and very user friendly. Keeps track of just about anything you can think of in Fresh Water or Salt. It is a large program of research quality but you can just keep up the sections YOU wish. Export data to other programs for analysis, printing  and charting. The best part is that if you download it yourself it is FREE. Mind that the last characters in the WWW address are all UPPERCASE!                  Bob Sheedy                 Master Angler http://www.mbnet.mb.ca/~sheedyr/FISHING.HTM

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Question:

I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies. Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

Hi Steve Using a magnet is a good starting point in that (in my experience) even the highest-quality stainless steel exhibits some magnetic properties. I have three kinds of bead chain; chrome plated mild steel, shiny stainless steel and chrome plated brass.  A magnet should enable you to tell these three apart, in that brass won’t be even faintly magnetic. Hope that helps  Russ

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks)

I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel. Dave

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In general the stainless will not be "ferromagnetic" and will, therefore, not be attracted to a magnet, unlike the steel bead, which will.  Although this is not always the case I would take about any odds that it will work, as ferritic stainless is rare….make that very rare. dave

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: I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying : fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I : realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it : had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is : Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   : : Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? : (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) : : Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might : know the easy answer! : : TIA… : : Steve Austenitic stainless steel will not attract a magnet.   Martensitic stainless steel *will* attract a magnet. So, one has to be careful.  Now, what you do have going for you is that austenitic stainless steel is the most corrosion resistant and thus might be the best choice for saltwater use.  However, martensitic is the type that can be the strongest.  As far as the other type of stainless, ferritic, I am not sure, but I think that also might attract a magnet.  As I said, one has to be careful. Good luck. Kind regards, Steve Kernosky Michigan Tech Univ.

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Stainless steel is generally not attracted to a magnet nearly as strongly as regular steel because of the increased content of other metals, i.e. nickel and others.  If you have a small magnet, you might try this until a *real* metal expert replies.  longspeer

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel.

Russel and Dave- You are both right on.  Thanks for the tip… Steve

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The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. Dont hook yourself. hope it helps.

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snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

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: : The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell : between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the : item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste : of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. : : Might look a little silly. : :   : Dont hook yourself. : : That would look even worse. Just try explaining *that* to the wife. : : -DLB I guess I’ve come into this thread late, but has anyone mentioned that stainless steels (cept 17-4 HT or 18-8 HT) has very low to none magnetic capability. To determint it quickly I use a strong magnet. Mild steel is easy determined this way. Bob — Bob San Jose, Ca

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Hi, try using a good magnet. The stainless steel will roll to the magnet quicker. Good uh ? fishing.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

No, some types of stainless steel (typically the 400 series, I believe) are at least slightly ferromagnetic, so a magnet is not an accurate way to determine whether or not the metal is stainless steel. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any easy, reliable way to distinguish stainless steel.  Usually one can tell by appearance:  stainless steel has a relatively dull, gray sheen compared to plated materials (eg. chrome or cadmium over steel), but brighter than aluminum or pot metal alloys.  It helps to have a practiced eye – as well as some examples of true stainless steel.  Surface texture is also a good clue:  with stainless, the machine tool marks may still be evident, whereas plating will typically smooth or fill these in.   -Wes Wes Neuenschwander Seattle, WA

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Question:

Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern! Thanks, Johnny

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Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern! Thanks, Johnny

Thread – tan Tail – pheasant tail tips Body – pheasant tail fibers wrapped like herl Ribbing – thin copper wire Thorax – copper wire (for bulk and added weight) over-wrapped with peacock               herl Wing case – pheasant tail with fibers divided at the head and turned back on               either side as "legs" (trimmed to 2/3 body length) – can be tied as bead head or with variations (flashback, mylar ribbing, etc.) Good fishing!  J. Rice

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materials: cock ring-neck pheasant tail, peacock herl, fine copper wire, black thread, 1X nymph hooks (pretty fancy, huh?) tie thread base, tie tail using 4-8 barbules from tails feather depending on size equal to 1/2 length of hook shank (no longer) with 3-4 wraps of thread; tie in copper wire, wrap tail fibres forward to midpoint; counter wrap copper wire rib, tie off and trim (your thread is now just forweard of the midpoint of the shank); fold back fibres over top of fly and tie down with a couple of wraps; tie in peacock herl and wrap a full thorax; fold fibers forward over the herl forming the case, tie down with 3-4 wraps of thread; divide fibres and fold back along the sides to form legs, tie down and whip finish. I don’t think I left anything out. A little practice and you should be able to tie 16-20 flies per hour with a rotary vice. Personal variations permitted. Hope this helps. — Ken Clark Ft. Lupton, CO

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I’m not sure what a book might say, but I’ve tied thousands with the following: cooper wire Pheasant Tail Fibers Peacock Herl Lead underbody (if allowed) Tie in tail of 3-6 tail fibers, Tie in a length of pheasant tail fibers 1/8′ or so wide and 1 1/2 times the length of hook shank and wrap fibers forward to 2/3 point of shank (do not cut butts)  rib with wire forward tie down with thread wrap peacock in for thorax and bring pheasant over top of hook for wing case tie down pull a few fiber out to side as legs tie off your done. Good luck, Great Nymph

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Pheasant tails, peacock hurl, fine copper, hook and thread. John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

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Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern!

The original English tie by Frank Sawyer uses only PT herl and fine copper wire (i.e. no thread.)  If your wire is fine enough, it’s all you need. (A cheap source is transformers from broken electrical gadgets.) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern! Thanks, Johnny

Hi Johnny Here is the dressing as written by Frank Sawyer in the 1950s.  Sawyer was a river keeper and is the man credited with the invention of the PTN. This dressing may not be what you were expecting as it uses fine copper wire rather than thread.  Although that sounds difficult, I have dressed some of these myself and it wasn’t that hard.  They were also VERY effective.  Good luck. Russ         Now as to the dressings.  The materials used are quite easy for         most, who are interested, to obtain.  To represent the several         olive nymphs my pattern of the pheasant tail can be constructed         on three different hook sizes, No 00, No 0 and No 1*, and I         make no claim that the use of pheasant tail fibres for the body         of nymphs or flies is original.  But what I do claim is the         manner of the base building, ballasting, and the tying in of         the pheasant tail fibres with fine copper wire, of a colouring         to suit and tone in which the general dressing.  Artificial         nymphs tied in my way are not difficult to make, and the simple         instruction I am able to give should be sufficient for anyone         with nimble fingers to follow.         First grip the selected hook firmly in the vice and then give         the hook an even covering from bend to eye with fine         red-coloured copper wire.  The wire we use is little thicker         than a human hair and this one can obtain at little cost from         various sources.  It is used for the windings in small         transformers, dynamos, or electric motors.  After the hook has         been covered and the wire locked so that it cannot spin around         the hook shank, wind the wire in even turns to the point where         the thorax of the nymph is to be constructed, and there build         up a hump.  Then wind the wire back to the hook bend and let it         dangle.  Wire is much easier to use than silk as it will not         spin off or loosen if the tension is relaxed.         The wire with its red colour forms the base for the dressing         and at the same time gives additional weight to the hook.  I         dispense entirely with the use of silk and use the fine wire to         tie in the dressing.  The wire is now dangling from the hook         bend.  Take the four centre fibres of the browny-red cock         pheasant tail feather.  Hold the fibres by the tips and then         tie them on the with the wire so that the fine ends stand out         about one eighth of an inch from the hook bend.  They form the         tails, or the set of the nymph.  Then spin the four fibres of         the pheasant tail on to the wire so that they are reinforced,         and then lap fibres and wire evenly to the hook eye.  Hold the         wire firmly, separate the fibres from it and then wind the wire         to the point behind which the thorax is to be made.  Bend the         fibres back and fasten for the first lap of the thorax, then         forward to the eye of the hook again.  Fasten here securely         with half a dozen turns of wire and then cut away spare         fibres.         Our finished effort should have a very pronounced thorax which         suggests the bulging wing cases, and a body which tapers neatly         to the tail.  With the tail fibres spread, all is complete.         It will be noted by those who follow these instructions that         the upper part of the thorax which imitates the wing cases is         much darker than the rest of the body.  This is brought about         by the lapping back and forth of the butt ends of the pheasant         tail fibres.  If wire and fibres are wound evenly on the hook,         the spare ends should have the dark tone which is a feature in         the butts of these fibres.  This gives a very natural         appearance to the thorax.  The fibres of pheasant tail vary in         length, and indeed texture, from the butt of the feather to the         tip, so when dressing a nymph one can select lengths most         suitable for the size of the hook, bearing in mind that when         the body is made the dark part is ready to use for lapping.         When wet this pattern has a translucent effect and one can see         the red of the wire showing through the pheasant tail fibres.         The artificial, so constructed, has a very good entry to water         and will sink deeply when required.  The hook point is not         muffled or guarded in any way by hackles or by the dressing,         and a slight lift of the rod will drive it home. * Modern sizes 14, 15 and 16

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Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern! Thanks, Johnny

The nymph is tied with copper wire as thread.  Leaving a long tag, wrap to the bend.  Tie in about 6 pheasant tail fibers, leaving the tips for the tail.  Wrap the wire to the start of the thorax (2/3 up the shank), then create a body by wrapping the butts of the pheasant tail.  Tie them off with the wire, then use the long tag to rib the body.  Tie off the copper ribbing with the copper "thread" then trim everything.  Tie in a larger bunch of pheasant tail fibers, with the tip length about hook shank length, then some peacock herl (2-3).  Wrap the wire almost to the eye, then back to the herl, then forward again.  This weights the nymph, so wrap according to what you want.  Wrap the herl to create a plump thorax, tie it off, and trim it.  Pull the fibers over the herl to create a wing case, then pull about three to each side and create legs.  Wrap a copper head, and finish. BTW, this nymph REALLY works if fished deep.

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Thanks to everyone for the help on the pattern! Johnny Johnson

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Thanks to everyone for the help on the pattern! Johnny Johnson

This is just funny enough that I’ve got to share it with ya’ll. I’ve long been a collector of road kills, much to the chagrin of both my wife and my oldest son, Michael.  Well, last month, while riding my bicycle to work…. you guessed it– I found a road kill. Well, sort of.  It was a coil that some technician had probably set on top of his car before pulling out of the parking lot.  And, it had been run over a few times.  It was definitely dead! Then, along comes this whole discussion of the original PT pattern. Lo and behold, the coil is just the thing for the wire component of the original PT pattern.  To make it even better, a hunter friend gave me two pheasant hides this year.  I’m tying nymphs for the price of the hook! So, my question is:  Has our sport gotten a little out of hand when the HOOK is over 99% of the cost of a fly?  :^) Tight pants^h^h^h^hlines! Charley

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Speaking of personal variations: For the thorax, I like to dub.  I use a dubbing loop, and stuff a couple of small bunches of selected fur in.  I keep the guard hairs in with the soft underfur.  Then I twist up the loop and wrap.  Then pull the butt ends of the PT over top as a wing case and tie off.  The guard hairs in the dub look like legs/assorted appendages and give the fly a bit more life. Another variation: Don’t put a wing case on.  I.E., tie it "in the round".  This is a philosophical thing.  In the vise, we’re always thinking of the top and bottom of the fly, but this may not be how it will behave in the water.  There is a philosophy that suggests that an upside down nymph is as upsetting to a trout as any other "error" when tying, for example some type of pure "match the hatch" dry fly. Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga, ON http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rlundy/

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Will someone please post the materials list for a Pheasant Tail nymph.  I can’t believe it but my three tying books don’t list the pattern!

Hi Johnny, The Pheasant Tail is included in my fly tying web site. If you’d like, it can be found at… WWW Fly Tyer:    http://www.ns.net/~barnard (this is a non-commercial site)  :-) Look in the category "modern nymph". You will find both a recipe and step-by-step instructions. I hope this helps,    Alan.

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So, my question is:  Has our sport gotten a little out of hand when the HOOK is over 99% of the cost of a fly?  :^)

That’s the way it should be; it’s out of hand when it’s the other way around ! One a similar subject, I regularly donate trout to a friend and he regulary brings me cock pheasant centre tail feathers from his father-in-law’s shoot.  I now have ~150 of the damn things. I’d like to get into dyeing or bleaching them so I have some choice over colour; does anyone have any experience of this please ?  Where do I start ? Thanks in advance Russ

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One a similar subject, I regularly donate trout to a friend and he regulary brings me cock pheasant centre tail feathers from his father-in-law’s shoot.  I now have ~150 of the damn things. I’d like to get into dyeing or bleaching them so I have some choice over colour; does anyone have any experience of this please ?  Where do I start ? Thanks in advance Russ

Well, Russ, it just so happens I know the answer to this because I found it today while researching an article for my fly fishing club newsletter. American Angler ran a five part series of articles called "Modern Dyes and Dyeing for Fly Tiers", by Wm. T. Roubal, from May, ‘94 through Jan, ‘95.  The one on bleaching was the last one, Jan. ‘95. Charley

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Thanks to everyone for the help on the pattern! Johnny Johnson

One other suggestion.  Have had good results using PT tied with greyish-brown dubbing for the thorax instead of peacock herl.  Might even try that with flashabou wing casing.  Whatever way you tie it, the PT just never stops producin!!! g

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One other suggestion.  Have had good results using PT tied with greyish-brown dubbing for the thorax instead of peacock herl.  Might

PT inventor Frank Sawyer also made a similar nymph using grey goose herls (improvised on the spot in N. Sweden, if I remember right). — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Hello everyone!  I am looking for fishing listservers.  I know of the flyfishing listserver in kentucky, are there any others?  Thanks a bunch. Tight Lines, George — *George M. Chan                 * "New York City has no power,       * *                               *  ’cuz I stay away from dairy."     * *                               *                      -Phoebe       *

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Hello everyone!  I am looking for fishing listservers.  I know of the flyfishing listserver in kentucky, are there any others?  Thanks a bunch. Tight Lines, George

George, Noticed the following listservers on rec.hunting……. **If you are a flyfisher, have a look on the following: **or **The first list gives you a lot of traffic while the latter is a bit **less active. Hope this helps Alex * Spinner of the WWWeb Page at                                      * *            http://www.well.com/www/amv/amv.htm                    *

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Question:

Try Cortland gf1000, not expensive and very feely

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Levine) writes: I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

Last year I bought a 7 foot 4 weight, parabolic action rod under the name Versatex. I believe it was manufactured in Pennsylvania. Prior to purchase I was able to compare a Fisher and a Loomis of the same length/weight ratio. Both the Fisher and Loomis were stiff as broomsticks and would not cast over 45 feet. This little Vesatex cast over 65 feet and had a nice medium action feel. I was purposely looking for a slower rod for the little ones on some of the Sierra streams. The price was about half that of the two name brands mentioned. I can’t vouch for the other rods in their line, actually I did’nt like the 9 foot 6 weight at all, but this particular model was so good that 3 other of my club members purchased one after trying mine out. — Guy Manning

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I have a Sage 490 Lightline, their slow action rod in 4 wt/9 ft. Very smooth feel, casts nicely to 60 ft, length makes for great roll casts.  I think it is about $390.  You can buy the blanks for about $150 from Sage and have someone build the rod, which saves a little money.  

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: I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up : (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. : Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more : traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo. Thomas and Thomas heritage series.  Very nice feel, with that slow cane action.  I’ve heard that the Hexagraph rods are also nice, and the winstons are pretty slow for graphite. I still like the T&T ‘tho…..     best, Hans — Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

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I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

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says… I find a lot of the fun missing from fly fishing since I gave up (gave away) my fiberglass rod and went with graphite. Would appreciate feedback on specific graphite rods with a more traditional action, i.e. more flex, more like glass or bamboo.

        Philip,         That’s easy! Powell makes two series of rod that might fit your casting tastes. The West Branch and the Signature Series are the models. Also, the Scott Rod Co. in Telluride, Co. makes an outstanding rod that has a little more back bone. There is one however that I’ve never cast or seen and that is a Hexagraph. I have seen it advertised in several of the magazines. It claims to be a bamboo rod, but made out of graphite.                                 Good luck,                                 Clint Bailey

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