Question:

Is there any web, catalog or other reliable source for fly fishing and/or fly tying supplies? Ebay is becoming chancy at best(I always lose the euipement I want at the last minute)! Thanks for any help.

You should check out Hook & Hackle at hookhack.com. When you order from their web site, you get 20% off of listed prices, and free shipping with an order over $200. They care for the customer, and if you have a problem with an order, they set it right. They have fly fishing, fly tying and rod building gear at normal prices as well as web specials, but when you factor in the 20% off, they can’t be beat (and I’m a real cheapskate!). ie: Loomis IMX blanks at list price, but they give you free components, about a $50 value.

Response:

Is there any web, catalog or other reliable source for fly fishing and/or fly tying supplies? Ebay is becoming chancy at best(I always lose the euipement I want at the last minute)! Thanks for any help.

Response:

Is there any web, catalog or other reliable source for fly fishing and/or fly tying supplies?

http://www.ezflyfish.com/ http://www.cabelas.com/ (also has a fly fishing catalog) http://www.orvis.com/ http://www.basspro-shops.com/ in that order, IMHO. — HTH, Tim

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Is there any web, catalog or other reliable source for fly fishing and/or fly tying supplies? Ebay is becoming chancy at best(I always lose the euipement I want at the last minute)! Thanks for any help.

    Frank,          Internet Outdoors has some good prices…I bought my float tube on sale from Cabella’s and afterwards I saw that Internet Outdoors was $20 cheaper!  They are dedicated to other sports as well as fishing, also.  Check them out.  Here is the address… http://www.shopoutdoors.com/

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Question:

I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions.   I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

Response:

I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions.   I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

        why not just post all their pictures, with names, family member’s names, and school lunch schedule.  that ought to make *somebody* happy…. wayno

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions.  I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott      why not just post all their pictures, with names, family member’s names, and school lunch schedule.  that ought to make *somebody* happy…. wayno

It’s a good thing my new Cabela’s clearance moleskin shirt sheds nasally- ejected coffee like water off a duck’s ass, or I would be really pissed right now   Scott

Response:

A group outing makes the most sense.  Contact your local Scout office and volunteer.  Definitely, if there’s a Scout camp nearby that would be an ideal opportunity because they are heavy on merit badges during camp.  On the off chance that they already offer the program at camp, remember that not all the boys can make it to camp, so it would be an excellent gesture to offer a separate program. You can get some good info here: http://www.bsaflyfishing.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions. I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A group outing makes the most sense.  Contact your local Scout office and volunteer.  Definitely, if there’s a Scout camp nearby that would be an ideal opportunity because they are heavy on merit badges during camp.  On the off chance that they already offer the program at camp, remember that not all the boys can make it to camp, so it would be an excellent gesture to offer a separate program. You can get some good info here: http://www.bsaflyfishing.com/ I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions. I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

Thanks, Stan.  I’ll let you know what we come up with. Scott

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I served my term as assistant scoutmaster and have helped do this before there was a flyfishing badge.  It was just a fishing badge at the time and three of us did it for the scouts in our sons troop and one other. Call the local counsel (there on the web) and get a list of the troops near you.  They will have the names and phone numbers of the troop Scoutmasters.  Call the troop leaders and tell them what you are willing to do.  They will be all over you.  They are always looking for and welcome help. The scouts have booklets that detail the steps for earning every merit badge.  The emphasis is to have the scouts do all the work; your role is to be teacher and advisor. You can run the program for the whole troop or for just a couple of boys, depends on how many are interested. It’s the boys who decide if they want to get the badge. If your names on the list as an advisor some boys will seek you out. Some of the things we did were:  1.) Gave hands on demos on fly tying at one of their regular meetings.  We started using a parachute cord and an 8/0 hook and then let them go with the six vices and various materials we brought. They all managed to tie a couple of flies.  2.) Depending on where they meet you can bring in some rods and give casting instructions. 3.) You can let them come to your house and work at your bench and tie a few flies. .  You have to have at least two boys there at a time, no one on one instruction is allowe.  Let them see you stuff, explain how it works and maybe cast some in your back yard.  This is the point where some of them become lifetime flyfishers.  4.) You take them on an outing.  This part may educate you as much as them.  Pick a spot that safe and has catchable fish.  I wouldn’t count on a lake at a Boy Scout Camp having any cacheable fish. This is where you will need more help.  Get more volunteers for the trip one on one instruction is a big help here.    Twenty wild kids on a river with fly rods, wading, throwing rocks, and just being boys. It’s a great experience.  I cannot recommend it enough. .     – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions.   I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

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The scouts have booklets that detail the steps for earning every merit badge.

Apparently it will cost $15,000 to print up all the booklets and the scouts are currently seeking donations to defray that cost. Mu

Response:

I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions. I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something.

There’s one on the White river in central WI.  Great hex hatch too.  Don’t know about a dozen or so scouts flailing the water in the dark though. Wolfgang

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Don’t know about a dozen or so scouts flailing the water in the dark though.

A noble quest, but I don’t think I’d wanna be the responsible party that hands them a fish hook or anything else that could potentially put me on the defendent end of a PI suit when somebody sticks a hook in his eye.   Maybe a dozen pairs of cheap safety glasses would be a good investment. Call me paranoid, Joe F.

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A noble quest, but I don’t think I’d wanna be the responsible party that hands them a fish hook or anything else that could potentially put me on the defendent end of a PI suit when somebody sticks a hook in his eye.   Maybe a dozen pairs of cheap safety glasses would be a good investment. Call me paranoid, Joe F.

Both TU and the Scouts have mechanisms to deal with insurance issues.   Safetly glasses should be mandatory.  I won’t cast without them.  I also walk around with a whistle in my vest, but I’m paranoid. Scott

Response:

Wiscoy Creek runs right through Camp Sam Wood right near Pike, NY.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions. I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

Response:

Both TU and the Scouts have mechanisms to deal with insurance issues. Safetly glasses should be mandatory.  I won’t cast without them.  I also walk around with a whistle in my vest, but I’m paranoid.

It’s been my limited experience that should anything unfortunate happen, TU, BSA, the rodmaker, the hook manufacturer, and you personally will get named in a suit.   Sure, you’d probably get out of any liability, but it’ll still cost a few shiny nickles in legal fees.   Lawsuits are a bitch for the innocent.   Didn’t mean to get so serious about it, but being married to a (former) property/casualty insurance agent will do that to you.  :-) Joe F.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wiscoy Creek runs right through Camp Sam Wood right near Pike, NY. I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions. I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

Thanks.  There’s also a pretty nice campground right on the Eastkoy that might be suitable.  Not many tent spots, though.  Seems taken up by permanent RVs Scott

Response:

I noticed that the Boy Scouts have started a FF Merit Badge, and I see an opportunity for our TU Chapter to do a little community outreach. Before I start asking local BSA people about how we can help, I was hoping that maybe some ROFFers involved with the Boy Scouts can offer suggestions.   I was thinking about maybe a group outing.  Maybe there’s a Boy Scout Camp with some good water on it, or something. Scott

well, I don’t know about good water compared to other areas, but in NJ there’s the Big Flat Brook that goes through Stokes State Forest which has an adjacent Boy Scout Camp. The BFB is known for decent trout FFing. Rob

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Question:

Do not learn to cast. Very bad. Too much like work. Learn to draw pretty pictures. ….take a deep breath, assume the lotus position and let your mind begin to wander and then to wonder…if necessary, use the ancient relics and the secret blend of herbs to attain a sated state of complete relaxation… While sitting…grasp the rod. Hold it. Feel it. Become one with it. …. Learn how to gently coax line from the tip. Learn to move the line to different places. Use as little motion as possible in order to not molest or in any way raise your pulse rate. Your breathing should become deeper and slower as you bond with your rod. Start off with small strokes. Gently teasing and calling….calling…. Learn, seek the way to keep the line in the air…..slowly….how to keep it in the air with the least energy expenditure…..can you make it straight.? Can you, with a flick of the wrist, a flex of your forearm, make the line go straight out in front of you?  Can you make it then go straight out in back of you? Can you keep the ess curves out of your line? Can you keep the line flat and straight, curving only to change from forwards to backwards?  Can you feel the line so softly and tenderly tugging and pulling – yearning to be free of the rod and thus of it’s master? repeat……this is my rod. There are many like it, but this one is mine…… john

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asadi wrote… repeat……this is my rod. There are many like it, but this one is mine……

My rod is my best friend, it is my life.  I must master it as I must master my life.  Without me my rod is useless, without my rod I am useless.  I must cast my rod true.  I must cast better than my friend who is trying to outfish me.  I must catch fish before he outfishes me.  I will.   Before God I swear this creed.  My rod and myself are defenders of our rivers.  We are the masters of the trout.  We are the saviors of fish.   So be it.  Until there are no fishless days but catching.   Amen. — Warren (amazed at how memories from 10+ years ago can flood your mind as fresh as if the events just happened….) PS – This is my rod and this is my gun.  This is for fishing, this is for fun….. Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt

Response:

Do not learn to cast. Very bad. Too much like work. Learn to draw pretty pictures. …

        (etherial wisdom snipped) john

        i knew it would only be a matter of time before you got these techhies on the right path, john.         it must be tough being the only bodhisattva on roff. your friend in the old north state wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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… the secret blend of herbs to attain a sated state of complete relaxation…

Yeah, that’s the part I like about fishing with you, John. I just gotta remember to tie on the fly BEFORE I toke the secret herb. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Hello asadi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do not learn to cast. Very bad. Too much like work. Learn to draw pretty pictures. ….take a deep breath, assume the lotus position and let your mind begin to wander and then to wonder…if necessary, use the ancient relics and the secret blend of herbs to attain a sated state of complete relaxation… While sitting…grasp the rod. Hold it. Feel it. Become one with it. …. Learn how to gently coax line from the tip. Learn to move the line to different places. Use as little motion as possible in order to not molest or in any way raise your pulse rate. Your breathing should become deeper and slower as you bond with your rod. Start off with small strokes. Gently teasing and calling….calling…. Learn, seek the way to keep the line in the air…..slowly….how to keep it in the air with the least energy expenditure…..can you make it straight.? Can you, with a flick of the wrist, a flex of your forearm, make the line go straight out in front of you?  Can you make it then go straight out in back of you? Can you keep the ess curves out of your line? Can you keep the line flat and straight, curving only to change from forwards to backwards?  Can you feel the line so softly and tenderly tugging and pulling – yearning to be free of the rod and thus of it’s master? repeat……this is my rod. There are many like it, but this one is mine…… john

Never had a dirty phone call and this is my first erotic newsgroup post……or did I just read it wrong <G May your Yin and Yang be in harmony always, and your Ch’i flow freely. — Don’t Worry, Be Happy! IRC Sandyb in #Rabble uk3.arcnet.vapor.com port:6667 Sandy (http://www.ftscotland.co.uk)   (Replace noway with sandy to email)

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asadi [held it in a *real* long time then] posted…. Learn, seek the way to keep the line in the air

yes…young grasshooker …..slowly….how to keep it in the air with the least energy

expenditure….. yes…i can see it now…master bong lit can you make it straight.?

yes…ho wang…but for the fleeting flap of a single gnats nad… Can you, with a flick of the wrist, a flex of your forearm, make the line go straight out in front of you?

yes…huk lo…but then it will stay there forever (sometimes even with a mighty samurai pull) Can you make it then go straight out in back of you?

yes…far flung…I think I am ready…can I try to snatch the splitshot from your palm ? Can you keep the ess curves out of your line?

yes…but I can’t keep the fuk ng knots from my 5x… — The Halfordian Golfer

Response:

 Very bad. Too much like work. Some days it does feel that way.  Feel it. Become one with it. …. When I bring to mind my favorite places, most of them are places that for some reason or another, are more likely to give me one of those special days. On these days, "you" can get lost in the experience and all is right with the world. I’ve only had these sort of days when I was fishing alone. When I bring other people to these places, the trips are often disappointing because their "specialness" isn’t because of exceptional fish catching. Willi PS Before I once again get accused of not having a sense of humor, I DID see the humor in John’s post.

Response:

Question:

Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line?

I have one of these.  I use it on a six weight.  Casts like hell -hinging, etc…  It will get a streamer or nymph down a little, though.  Effective to about six or eight feet.  In general, I would not suggest it.  You can do as well with a longer leader and a couple of split shot with a floating line. J

Response:

Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line?

Frank, I have one of these and they work ok in a pinch if you hit one or two deep sections and then go back to more moderate depths but if you are going to be fishing deep for extended periods of time my advice would be to buy a sink tip.  I do carry the Orvis sink tip for emergency use but they are a pain to cast and don’t get you down as well as a real sink tip fly line would in my experience. Good Fishing, C. Segina

Response:

Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line?

I haven’t seen Orvis’ up close but Cortland’s tend to be too heavy for my 4 wt.  I have a beat up old full sinking 9 wt line and the thin running portion of it is perfect for making mini sink tips.  The only drawback is that this requires a loop to loop connection.  I prefer nail-knotting a piece of thick leader material and then tying a perfection loop at the end since it lands on the water more softly than a fly-line looped end. Mu

Response:

Frank, Splurge and go for the full line in a medium density.  Use it on a longer rod with a short (3 to 4 ft) leader.  The rod length is for mending and good control.  Don’t believe those who say any old rod and a long leader.  You need to mend and the fly needs to sink.  The longer the distance between the fly and the weight of the tip section, the higher the fly will ride.  You can use leader length to fine tune your drift depth. I made those mini sink tips from lead core years ago.  They’ll sink your fly, but you won’t like the casting unless you’re using 8 wt line+.  They cast like slinky weights on running line — chuck and duck. Mike If you buy a sink tip that has too much tip for your needs, you can just cut it down and reattach your leader butt.  

Response:

Frank: I’ve used the Orvis lead head sections – I don’t think they offer them any more – that must be similar (though shorter) than the 5 ft sink -tip head that you are looking at. These things came in 12 inch and 24 inch sections, and could be looped in at the end of the regular fly line, and the leader looped on the other end.  I think they are quite useful in certain circumstances.  I keep them in my vest, and if I need to go deeper in a spot they work very well – but they are not a substitute for a true sink tip line, say for lake fishing. Mark Faulkner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line? Frank

Response:

Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line? Frank

Response:

I have tried these and they will sink your line well but, having a sudden transition to denser line,they are far more difficult to cast than a true sink tip line (but also cheaper). If you have the money for a line and spool, go for the full line. The most effective place for your weight lies in the fly though. Go with a longer leader and a weighted fly for the best effect. Orvis has a "sink tip system’ that includes 5 foot sink-tip sections that will convert a floating line to a sink-tip one. Has anyone tried this? Does it work ok or would I be better off buying an actual sink-tip line? Frank

– Remove "nospam" from address if emailing direct.

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Question:

Made in Duntons shop in Mass.  Before haveing his own shop Dunton was at Montague(just before WWII). They were sold under his own label and under the name of a fly shop in Manhattan(Bob Zwirz?) They were rather low end rods, drawn ferrules as an example, rather than machined. They were supposed to be rather fast with firm butts and quick tips but the ones I have seen(3 or 4) and cast seemed a bit wimpy and light in the tip.  Dunton sold his shop and machinery to Tom Dorsey and Tom Maxwell and it became Thomas and Thomas.  They went on to produce a line of superb high quality rods.  You see Dunton rods on the used lists from time to time and they don’t command much of a price.  IMHO they have some minor historical value but not much to recommend them as a fishing tool. Hi, I am interested in Sewell Dunton bambo rod. Anyone knows the magazie article or something written about it? Thanks in advance. Mikio Sugiyama

– Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                          Tom McGuane

Response:

Hi, I am interested in Sewell Dunton bambo rod. Anyone knows the magazie article or something written about it? Thanks in advance. Mikio Sugiyama

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Question:

Not to make it more confusing, but depends on where you are.  Many of the books dealing with hatches are geared to a specific location/s.  I like Haefle and Hughes "Western Hatches", which I understand has a new edition out. Larry #:)# – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any suggestions on some good books to read about hatches and other finer aspects of fly fishing.. Thanks. Chris Corwin

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Any suggestions on some good books to read about hatches and other finer aspects of fly fishing.. Thanks. Chris Corwin

If you want to learn about maylflies, I strongly recommend "Mayflies" by Malcom Knopp and Robert Cormier. Peter

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There is an excellent book on Argentine ff. It is called Fly Fishing in Argentina by Bill Leitch ( I believe thats the correct spelling). Anglers Edge in Houston, TX has copies. They catch hoomongous rainbows and brown trout in Argentina.  Very good book.

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Any suggestions on some good books to read about hatches and other finer aspects of fly fishing.. Thanks. Chris Corwin

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Look for "The Gilly" for all the information regarding British Columbia. It is co-authored by many famous BC fishermen, and of course can be applied to any lake or stream with similar characteristics as the waters here. — remove the anti spam X from return address – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any suggestions on some good books to read about hatches and other finer aspects of fly fishing.. Thanks. Chris Corwin

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Question:

Does any one know it? Thanks, Nick Pujic

Response:

Does any one know it?

Hi Nick, He has at least three that I know of.  I usually use the following to reach him:                                   Good Fishing,                                           Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Well, don’t forget Bryce that this fellow described himself as a newbie, and I got the sense that he was tooling around his local waters out East somewhere. Thus, I figured that he was not talking about tangling with 10 lb+ bass and pike regularly, and I guess it seemed to me that a lighter rod would be easy to handle for the guy and thus more enjoyable at this stage. He did not describe his gear all that well, and I thought I’d try to steer him to something that would not require too bad an outlay of funds but which would still be suited enough so that he could get a taste of how much fun it can be with (roughly) appropriately sized gear.     Of course once we suck him more fully into the sport *that’s* when we start revealing that what he *really* needs is 4 or 5  rods. Let’s see, a light 5 wt. for small bass and a stiff 6 wt. for the heavier (and, of course, the 7 or 8 wt. for when he gets for Florida for those potbellied ones), then an 8 wt for standard pike complimented by a 9 wt. for when he gets up to No. Canada for the real torpedos, and maybe then even a 10 wt. in case he ever gets to one of those vague lakes one hears about in Scotland or the deep Yugoslav mountains where the pike look like crocodiles and….    At any rate, my advice was kinda geared to my mental picture of the poster as a "typical" new guy, who just wants some simple but non-intimidating steers, and thus I tried to keep the talk about rods, leaders, tippits, wire tippits, etc. as "clean" as possible without making him shake his head over a lengthy exegesis on the relative merits of a stiff 7 wt. as opposed to a softer 8 wt., or picking lines by reference to how many grams of its weight are in its forward 10% of length. TB

I have to say it is a bit technical. I do get into tiny technicalities often. Thinking that he is a newbie, your response was better. I do think that a 9wt is a bit better but it is just your preference. Bryce

Response:

Gee Bryce, sounds like you’re worried one of those fish might escape the freezer:^). Was that intended for a little sarcasm or are you trying to say my harvesting is wrong? I can deal with both. BryceC

Don’t see the need for such heavy artillery for bass and an occaisional (read not monster) pike. Just sayin’ with the rod and terminal tackle  you describe and a serious hook set, most of those bass will be comin’ one hop into the cooler.

Response:

Gee Bryce, sounds like you’re worried one of those fish might escape the freezer:^).

Was that intended for a little sarcasm or are you trying to say my harvesting is wrong? I can deal with both. BryceC

Response:

 Thus, if you wanted a rig you could reasonably use for both bass and pike I think a moderate to stiff action, 9 foot long 7 weight rod could serve you very well. Rig with bass or "pike" taper line size 7 of course.

With that combo plus a sinking leader such as the type made by Airflow you should be able to cover most pike and large mouth situations.  For smallies if your fishing a large lake you may need a full sinking line  or long sinking tip if you are fishing over 15′ deep. John Hughes Norflok, VA

Response:

 Thus, if you wanted a rig you could reasonably use for both bass and pike I think a moderate to stiff action, 9 foot long 7 weight rod could serve you very well. Rig with bass or "pike" taper line size 7 of course.

I disagree. For bass and pike, I would use an 8 or 9 wt 9′ fast action rod. I agree on the line, get a bass taper. The difference between a bass line and a trout line is the length of the belly. A WF bass line may have a belly of only 25 feet while WF trout may be 40′ you can use tapered leaders. For pike,use an 7′ leader that ends in 12 or 14 lbs test with a 1′ piece of 40 lb hard mono as a bite gaurd. instead of the hard mono, you can use looped bite gaurds. Orvis has some good ones. For bass, omit the bite gaurd. A good reel is necessary. Have 200 yards of 30lb backing. You need disk drag. A good selection of flies include dahlburg divers, poppers, large fur streamers like zonkers, poppers, standard baitfish imitating streamers, and poppers. That will get you started. hope it helps. BryceC

Response:

 Thus, if you wanted a rig you could reasonably use for both bass and pike I think a moderate to stiff action, 9 foot long 7 weight rod could serve you very well. Rig with bass or "pike" taper line size 7 of course. I disagree. For bass and pike, I would use an 8 or 9 wt 9′ fast action rod

.<snip.  A good reel is necessary. Have 200 yards of 30lb backing. You need disk drag .<snip BryceC

Gee Bryce, sounds like you’re worried one of those fish might escape the freezer:^).

Response:

In response to a fellow describing himself as a "newbie" asking about  Thus, if you wanted a rig you could reasonably use for both bass and pike I think a moderate to stiff action, 9 foot long 7 weight rod could serve you very well. Rig with bass or "pike" taper line size 7 of course….

I disagree. For bass and pike, I would use an 8 or 9 wt 9′ fast action rod…. (SNIP)

        Well, don’t forget Bryce that this fellow described himself as a newbie, and I got the sense that he was tooling around his local waters out East somewhere. Thus, I figured that he was not talking about tangling with 10 lb+ bass and pike regularly, and I guess it seemed to me that a lighter rod would be easy to handle for the guy and thus more enjoyable at this stage. He did not describe his gear all that well, and I thought I’d try to steer him to something that would not require too bad an outlay of funds but which would still be suited enough so that he could get a taste of how much fun it can be with (roughly) appropriately sized gear.          Of course once we suck him more fully into the sport *that’s* when we start revealing that what he *really* needs is 4 or 5  rods. Let’s see, a light 5 wt. for small bass and a stiff 6 wt. for the heavier (and, of course, the 7 or 8 wt. for when he gets for Florida for those potbellied ones), then an 8 wt for standard pike complimented by a 9 wt. for when he gets up to No. Canada for the real torpedos, and maybe then even a 10 wt. in case he ever gets to one of those vague lakes one hears about in Scotland or the deep Yugoslav mountains where the pike look like crocodiles and….         At any rate, my advice was kinda geared to my mental picture of the poster as a "typical" new guy, who just wants some simple but non-intimidating steers, and thus I tried to keep the talk about rods, leaders, tippits, wire tippits, etc. as "clean" as possible without making him shake his head over a lengthy exegesis on the relative merits of a stiff 7 wt. as opposed to a softer 8 wt., or picking lines by reference to how many grams of its weight are in its forward 10% of length. TB

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I think I have the knots straight, but on the weekend a guy said I need a shooting line. What is that? I also need some fly advice. I will be buying a fly tieing book but so far I’ve had no luck in finding one with bass flies. I love bass. I’ve only ever caught one on my fly rod using a little white popper (styraphome with square front and feather out the back). I want to catch more. What length & weight of tippet (the mono that ties to my fly) do I need? I would be greatfull for any suggestions, tips or whatever. Anything to get me another bass on my line. I’ve also tried for pike with no luck. Used streamers (I think that’s what they are called). They are long with lots of hair and a big hook and stay on the surface. What a bugger to cast. Is this fly the right one to be using?

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John:         I don’t think you need a "shooting" line, not as that term has traditionally been used at least (also called a "shooting head") with all the modern regular fly lines out there today.         A "shooting" line/head traditionally was a very heavy short piece of flyline that attached to mono on a flyrod and, it’s my understanding, was (and perhaps still is) used for stuff like surfcasting to really get your lure out there. Never very heavily used as I understood it, and very much a specialty thing. Might still be used by some in some instances, but for bass and pike there are many many lines now on the market that will get you all the distance you need with the heavy bugs and stuff you need to throw for these. Check out Cortland’s lines for instance, they have "Bass Taper" lines, and even a "Pike and Muskie" line.         Used to be that fly lines basically came in three basic configurations: Level, tapered, and weight-forward. Level lines of course were a holdover from the old days when technology simply did not allow making a good quality taper on a line. I suppose they are not all that bad. A tapered line has, of course, a taper so that the line gets thinner and lighter at the end where the leader attaches. It allows a more delicate presentation of your fly. A weight-forward taper is reversed, it gets heavier towards the end so as to allow you to more easily throw heavier flies because, of course, what you are *really* throwing in fly casting is not the fly but only the loop formed by your cast, and so the heavier fly you throw the more this interferes with throwing that loop and the heavier the loop is the better, right? A "bass" or "pike" taper is just an exaggerated form of a weight-forward line. For pike I think most folks would say an 8 or 9 weight rod and line is just fine, and will handle almost any pike you can imagine. A 7 weight rig is a tad light for pike if you are really tying into big ones, but it can be done. For bass, I sense that a 7 weight rod/line is pretty prevalent, though lots of guys who know they ain’t going to catch any 10 pounders go with 6 or 5 weight setups to have a bit more fun with smaller, more prevalent fish.         Thus, if you wanted a rig you could reasonably use for both bass and pike I think a moderate to stiff action, 9 foot long 7 weight rod could serve you very well. Rig with bass or "pike" taper line size 7 of course.         As to leaders, you don’t need much length for either fish. For the most part a leader exists so as to separate the potentially scary fly line from your lure so as to not spook your quarry, right? Bass and pike are not very spooky, and that’s good because it’s also easier to throw the kind of lures they like with short leaders. Many pre-made 6 foot tapered knotless leaders are made specifically for bass. They work nice without knots because they don’t collect weeds in the knots. As to the size to get

Question:

A new client will have me spending a fair amount of time in Phoenix. Where do I fish (trout or bass, not picky) in this desert…or do I have to take up (ugh) golf?

Hi Steph, Call Jim Fraijo at Arizona Outdoors in Tempe.  He has always shared information freely with me (602-968-3868). — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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A new client will have me spending a fair amount of time in Phoenix. Where do I fish (trout or bass, not picky) in this desert…or do I have to take up (ugh) golf?

Scope out the AZ FF site at: http://www.azlink.com/~jshannon/ DawsonH

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A new client will have me spending a fair amount of time in Phoenix. Where do I fish (trout or bass, not picky) in this desert…or do I have to take up (ugh) golf?

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I heard that flyfishing equipment is less expensive in Canada due to currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order? Thanks in Advance, The Canadian "dollar" is now worth around US$.70. Check out Smallman’s in Cochrane, Alberta.  Among other things, they sell Hardy equipment for less than anywhere I’ve been able to find (e.g. a Hardy Princess for CAN$151.00, which currently is about US$115).  You may be able to skip the GST if they ship it to you – ask them about it.  There’s no provincial sales tax in Alberta. Their number is         +1 800 667 4753 Tim

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Looking for information for the Kings, San Joaquin and Kaweah rivers in central CA.  I have lived here for a few years and have fished all three, but would like some specifics.  I can give lots of advise and specifics on the High Sierra and Kins Canyon National Park.  Enjoyed a great trip last summer for Golden Trout, I have great advise for this area.  Thanks in advance!

I am a native of Merced and am currently living in the Bay Area.  I am a relative novice to fly fishing but I try hard and I love it.  I would appreciate any suggestions you have, including float tubing.  Thanks in advance.                                  Dave W.

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I heard that flyfishing equipment is less expensive in Canada due to currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order? Thanks in Advance, Wayne

In BC we have 7% GST (federal goods & services tax) and 7% PST (provincial sales tax. Despite that, the 1.42cdn==1us$ exchange rate is working in your favour…. I’m not sure about fishing equipment, as I’ve never bought any from the US, but computer stuff tends to suffer an extra 10-20% (or more sometimes!!!) cost just for being in Canada. — Pat Dowler UVic Astronomy

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Looking for information for the Kings, San Joaquin and Kaweah rivers in central CA.  I have lived here for a few years and have fished all three, but would like some specifics.  I can give lots of advise and specifics on the High Sierra and Kins Canyon National Park.  Enjoyed a great trip last summer for Golden Trout, I have great advise for this area.  Thanks in advance!

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I heard that flyfishing equipment is less expensive in Canada due to currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order? Thanks in Advance,

The Canadian "dollar" is now worth around US$.70. Check out Smallman’s in Cochrane, Alberta.  Among other things, they sell Hardy equipment for less than anywhere I’ve been able to find (e.g. a Hardy Princess for CAN$151.00, which currently is about US$115).  You may be able to skip the GST if they ship it to you – ask them about it.  There’s no provincial sales tax in Alberta. Their number is          +1 800 667 4753 Tim

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I heard that flyfishing equipment is less expensive in Canada due to currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order?

Check out Wallace W. Doak & Sons Ltd. P.O. Box 95, 331 Main Street, Doaktown, New Brunswick, Canada. E0C 1G0 Tel: 506-365-7828 Fax: 506-365-7762 Doak’s prices for many items are comparable to what I have seen in some American catalogues (e.g. Cabela, Orvis), but the prices are in Canadian ($0.71) dollars. More importantly, they epitomize friendly, efficient service.  The only shortcoming is that they are hardcore Miramichi-ites, so their selection is somewhat salmon-centric. I have never dealt with Smallman’s, but it has been recommended on the net. Smallman’s Fly Shop 220 First Street, Cochrane, Alberta, Canada. T0L 0W0 Tel: 403-932-2122 Fax: 403-932-7107 1-800-667-4753 — Keep your stick on the ice.

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 Wayne we have 2 taxes,provincial 7% and G.S.T. 7%.Your stuck with the provincial but I believe you can get all of the G.S.T. rebated at the border on your way home if you keep the receipts.

If you mail order from outside the province, you do not pay provincial sales tax.  I sometimes have stuff mail ordered from Doak’s in New Brunswick to my home in Ottawa because postage is less than sales tax. The GST does not apply to exports, so our southern confreres are spared that indignity. — Keep your stick on the ice.

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I heard that flyfishing equipment is less expensive in Canada due to currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order? Thanks in Advance, Wayne

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is less expensive in Canada due to : currency devaluation.  I live in Washington and sales tax is 8.2%.  Is : there any good deals across the border say in Vancouver or by mail order?  Wayne we have 2 taxes,provincial 7% and G.S.T. 7%.Your stuck with the provincial but I believe you can get all of the G.S.T. rebated at the border on your way home if you keep the receipts.As far as saving money with the exchange rate you probably can do quite well,I know its rarely worth it for me to shop down south anymore.Give me an example of exactly what you want and I will find out the local cost for you. —                  *              Doug Cook                *                  *            Abbotsford,B.C.            *                  *                Canada                 *

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