Question:

I’m just trying to figure out where there’s *any* flyfishing near the Frying Pan river. I lived there for 15 years and all I ever saw was a liquid golf course. — TBone Walker The Halfordian Golfer

Response:

The Green through Wyoming has far fewer fish per mile but the fishery is much more wild and in many stretches there are very few anglers.

I would humbly suggest a copy of the book "A River No More" so you can appreciate fully your understatement. Your pal, — TBone Walker The Halfordian Golfer

Response:

I’m just trying to figure out where there’s *any* flyfishing near the Frying Pan river. I lived there for 15 years and all I ever saw was a liquid golf course.

Liquid Golf Course, eh?  I suppose to each is own!  I admit I was never crazy about fishing the Frying Pan right at the dam.  You almost spend more time cleaning up trash than working the river.  Some good size fish that have been hooked to death.  But then again any tailwater that has such a limited flow will exhibit such problems to the fish.  The Taylor, Frying Pan, Williams Fork, and the South Platte all come to mind.   Let’s not forget the great opportunities Colorado offers for the fly fisherman.  So many fisherman drive past some incredible freestone rivers to get to what some call the Disney Parks of fly fishing.  But to each is own and who am I to judge?  I fished as many rivers as possible and I enjoyed the unique view each one had to offer. A liquid gold course to one guy is a dream vacation to another… — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

A liquid gold course to one guy is a dream vacation to another…

That, my friend, was a ‘precious’ misspelling. — A Cash Flow Runs Through It

Response:

A liquid gold course to one guy is a dream vacation to another… That, my friend, was a ‘precious’ misspelling.

Very metallic to say the least. — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

Willi would have us believe: The tailwater section below Flaming Gorge is a "destination" fishing area. Many fish per mile, large fish, but lots of people. The Green through [some godforsaken wilderness] has far fewer fish per

mile but the fishery is much more wild and in many stretches there are very few anglers.

The Flaming Gorge section of the Green is the best part of the river and that’s where Everyone should go. There are other parts of the Green that you’ll hear (tormented) people discuss once in a while, but all the fish are long gone. A bunch of white bastards showed up from Montana and loaded them into ice chests and hauled them away in their pickup trucks. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Response:

The Flaming Gorge section of the Green is the best part of the river and that’s where Everyone should go. There are other parts of the Green that you’ll hear (tormented) people discuss once in a while, but all the fish are long gone. A bunch of white bastards showed up from Montana and loaded them into ice chests and hauled them away in their pickup trucks.

Rusty,   Information just in the nick of time.  I was planning on going to those "other parts" but, now that I know there are no fish there, I’ll go to the Flaming Gorge section instead:) Snoop —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

That section of the gorge supports boating, does it not? I have a 20′ whaler I want to boat with, camp. cruise..etc.. is it possible to camp this section, and hike to the good fly spots?….How far away would you estimate the loading ramps & parking lot for trailers to be? thanx for info… richard colorado – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Flaming Gorge section of the Green is the best part of the river and that’s where Everyone should go. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Willi would have us believe: The tailwater section below Flaming Gorge is a "destination" fishing area. Many fish per mile, large fish, but lots of people. The Green through [some godforsaken wilderness] has far fewer fish per mile but the fishery is much more wild and in many stretches there are very few anglers. The Flaming Gorge section of the Green is the best part of the river and that’s where Everyone should go. There are other parts of the Green that you’ll hear (tormented) people discuss once in a while, but all the fish are long gone. A bunch of white bastards showed up from Montana and loaded them into ice chests and hauled them away in their pickup trucks. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Absofragginlutely.  Once you cross into Wyoming, there is narry a fish to be seen in the Green. Craig A. Gullixson National Solar Observatory/Sac. Peak    PHONE: (505) 434-7065 Sunspot, NM 88349 USA                   FAX: (505) 434-7029

Response:

That section of the gorge supports boating, does it not? I have a 20′ whaler I want to boat with, camp. cruise..etc.. is it possible to camp this section, and hike to the good fly spots?….How far away would you estimate the loading ramps & parking lot for trailers to be?

I don’t know what a 20 foot whaler is but it sounds like it would be overkill on the river. There is alot of floating done on the river in drift boats, rafts and even some bellyboats. There are several campgrounds in the area but I believe that in that section of the river, camping is only allowed in the designated campgrounds. There are easy trails up and down the river. Willi

Response:

is the section you are referring to "below the dam" or "above the dam" ? the 20′ whaler is a pretty big, heavy boat…not for small to med streams…more lakes & large rivers…(& ocean).. thanx.. richard colorado – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That section of the gorge supports boating, does it not? I have a 20′ whaler I want to boat with, camp. cruise..etc.. is it possible to camp this section, and hike to the good fly spots?….How far away would you estimate the loading ramps & parking lot for trailers to be? I don’t know what a 20 foot whaler is but it sounds like it would be overkill on the river. There is alot of floating done on the river in drift boats, rafts and even some bellyboats. There are several campgrounds in the area but I believe that in that section of the river, camping is only allowed in the designated campgrounds. There are easy trails up and down the river. Willi

Response:

is the section you are referring to "below the dam" or "above the dam" ?

Below the dam. You like Cheeseman, so I think you’d really like the fishing there. Plentiful, big fish that you can usually sight fish. I’ve only fished it once and that was late Fall. I was able to get water to myself. From what I understand, it’s not as crowded as Cheeseman but close, especially during prime time. Hatches are much more varied than Cheeseman. The canyon is quite scenic and there quite a few miles of "quality" water. Willi

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish? I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork. And in your last post you were commenting that the Bighorn wasn’t so bad…. no wonder. Not sure I follow you…  I wouldn’t drive from Klamath Falls to Colorado Springs via the Bighorn. You commented on the crowds not being too bad on the Bighorn. Then you picked what are probably the two most heavilly fished rivers between Klamath Falls and Colorado Springs for the guy to fish.

Well I didn’t suggest the South Platte!  That would rank in the top 3, for sure.  I also didn’t hot spot some other quality areas that fish really well that time of year.  A couple of spots in Utah and a number of areas in Colorado. The Arkansas and Eagle are most likely blown out during that period of time, so suggesting those rivers would be pointless.  The Raddy, Poudre, and Big T, might also suffer from runoff problemos. What else?  Well he could make a trip over to the Taylor River, the Yampa below Stagecoach reservoir, and a final stop at the Williams Fork and/or Blue River.  Steamboat would be beautiful in late May and worth a night of relaxation. He could also take the very southern route and hit Lee’s Ferry and the San Juan!  Two great tailwaters.  The San Juan might have a good flow during late May, but that of course depends upon the final snowpack which isn’t looking so hot in that area right now.  Durango would make a fine stop for a night.  The Animas in Durango is a great fishery, but once again that May runoff could be a problemo. Want to stay north of 40 Lat?  OK.  Try the Henry’s Fork, Snake, Beaverhead, Missouri, or the BIGHORN!  Heck, If I have a drift boat by then(doubtful) I will even take you down the river!  We could split the rental on drift boat if you would like.  $100 a day.  Drop south on I25/I90 and hit Grey Reef and the Miracle Mile before you reach the metro area cooridor from Ft Collins to Pueblo. So many hatches, so many rivers, and such little time! — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

thanx for the info…i’ll get a map and check it out… richard – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – is the section you are referring to "below the dam" or "above the dam" ? Below the dam. You like Cheeseman, so I think you’d really like the fishing there. Plentiful, big fish that you can usually sight fish. I’ve only fished it once and that was late Fall. I was able to get water to myself. From what I understand, it’s not as crowded as Cheeseman but close, especially during prime time. Hatches are much more varied than Cheeseman. The canyon is quite scenic and there quite a few miles of "quality" water. Willi

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish? I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork. And in your last post you were commenting that the Bighorn wasn’t so bad…. no wonder. Not sure I follow you…  I wouldn’t drive from Klamath Falls to Colorado Springs via the Bighorn.

You commented on the crowds not being too bad on the Bighorn. Then you picked what are probably the two most heavilly fished rivers between Klamath Falls and Colorado Springs for the guy to fish. Willi

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish?

In the water, of course. /daytripper (This ain’t no shuttle launch.  ;-)

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish? I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork. And in your last post you were commenting that the Bighorn wasn’t so bad…. no wonder.

Not sure I follow you…  I wouldn’t drive from Klamath Falls to Colorado Springs via the Bighorn.   — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

what part/or location is good on the green river? anyone fished up near flaming gorge nat’l park? good fishing up that way? thanx… richard colorado

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish? I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork. Paul — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

what part/or location is good on the green river? anyone fished up near flaming gorge nat’l park? good fishing up that way?

Depends on what you call good fishing: The tailwater section below Flaming Gorge is a "destination" fishing area. Many fish per mile, large fish, but lots of people. The Green through Wyoming has far fewer fish per mile but the fishery is much more wild and in many stretches there are very few anglers. Willi

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish?

I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork. Paul — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish?

One more thing!  Be aware of runoff in late May!  Depending upon the final snowpack, nearly all the non-tailwater fisheries will be blown out. Paul — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish? I would suggest a stop at the Green River and then the Glenwood Springs area where you could fish the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork.

And in your last post you were commenting that the Bighorn wasn’t so bad…. no wonder. Willi

Response:

Hey group just a friendly question, I will be driving from Klamath Falls Oregon to Colorado Springs Colorado in late May and have several days to fish in route. Where would you fish?

Response:

Question:

well said I think.  put another way: A $10000 body will produce the same results as a $100 one if you shoot the basics. Sunil www.lockon.f2s.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

Your right.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson

Response:

Not even the spot-meter!?!?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one. The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson

Response:

Not even the spot-meter!?!?

Not even the spot meter.  The N80/F80 will meter only with lenses that have a built-in CPU.  All AF lenses will meter, plus all AI-P lenses.   Nothing else will meter. I found this very disappointing, as I think the N80/F80 is otherwise an excellent camera.  Had it metered with AI/AIS lenses, I would have bought one as a second body to go with my F3.   As it is, I bought an F4, sold the F3 and then bought an F4 as a second body to go with the first F4.  And I’ve steadily replaced my lenses over the last 5 months to the point where all but two are AF Nikkors.  So I’m now considering selling one F4 and replacing it with a smaller, lighter body, which includes just about every 35mm SLR camera ever made.  <g It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. — Tony Polson

Response:

The N80 is for the "new generation" of camera users. Those who start new in the AF line. It is not marketed as a retro camera. The camera’s metering system only works with AF lenses. Regards, Roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth). Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

It will be either a used F100 or a new F80.

Why an F80 over an F90x?

Response:

I guess he wants the more advanced AF.  That’s the only thing these two camera have in common that the F90x lacks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. Why an F80 over an F90x?

Response:

The F5 will probably make a much better door stop …. then again, you might be able to throw the F100 farther ….. just depends upon your priorities – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80?  Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s?

Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson

Response:

…or a $15 used Nikon L35AF.  The AF is certainly fast enough. ;^)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s? Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80?

I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview.

– Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5?

In some ways the F100 is better than the F5.  They are slightly different cameras, aimed at a slightly different market. The F5 is the latest development of the professional F range, starting with the 1959 Nikon F.  Like all its predecessors it has a 100% viewfinder, mirror lock up and easily interchangeable finders and focusing screens. The F100 is the latest development of the line that began with the F801 (N8008 in USA) and advanced through the F801s (N8008s), F90 (N90) and F90X (N90s) to the F100.  Whilst the F801 was aimed at amateurs, it was attractive to pros as a more compact body than its contemporary in the F range, the bulky and heavy F4, so it was perfectly logical to develop the camera into the pro tool the F100 is. The F100 has a 96% viewfinder, no mirror lock up and a limited range of focusing screens which are not very easy to change. The other differences are mainly in the metering; the F5 has RGB Matrix metering whereas the F100 has the most advanced version of Nikon’s 3D Matrix metering.  Both are state of the art metering systems, they are just different.  The F5 has the reputation of getting the exposure right all the time, and the F100 nearly all of the time, but I would hesitate to conclude that one is significantly better than the other. If you want a pro system SLR with easily interchangeable viewfinders and screens, or mirror lock up is essential to you, or RGB matrix metering attracts you, go for the F5.  If a lighter, more compact body (even with the MB-15 battery pack attached) attracts you, and mirror lock up is not absolutely vital, go for the F100. There is no wrong choice here; neither is "better".  Both are amongst the finest 35mm SLR cameras made; both are high quality rugged pro tools; both can help a good photographer produce outstanding results.   It’s a choice that many of us would like to have.  Good luck! — Tony Polson

Response:

Let’s take an F5 and make it run at 4.5 fps instead of 8.  Then let’s get rid of the interchangeable prism and make it a fixed prism.  Take away MLU and the color matrix meter, and you should be left with a camera that’s about $700+ cheaper.  Sounds like an F100?  Keep DOF in all modes however and add red color to hilite the area being focused on and the F100 seems quite reasonable. — Wes Jansen Feather Foto LaConner, WA

Personally I would think Nikon could – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.

Response:

Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Tom There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. Three, actually: The F100 can be set to focus on the closest of the five autofocus sensors, and the F5 cannot — you have to select a sensor by hand. —

Response:

If you don’t need the AF speed then the Nikon F4 is a really great buy. The Nikon F3 or F2 with a handheld spot-meter would be a good buy too.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. Regards, dat I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5? Ren

Question:

It’s easy, tell your wife that in your OLD AGE you can’t throw the heavier 4, 6 and 8 wts. You need the lighter 3, 5 and 7 wts. You try this first and let me know if it works. Good luck Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m giving a lot away about age here, but my very first fly rod wasn’t rated for line weight. It was rated for diameter. "H" was the small diameter; "A" was as thick as you could get. HCH would be a double taper, with "C" being the middle diameter. Density wasn’t mentioned, nor was weight. So rods might cast an HCH floating line, but an HEH (!) sinker. And you could really only tell by trial and error. As you might guess, the weight system was and is a godsend. When I bought my first weight-rated rod, the generally-recommended line for trout stream fishing was a 6. Naturally, that’s where I started. Over the years I’ve accumulated a "kangaroo quiver" of rods. That is, line weights 2, 4, 6 and 8 (hopping over the odd numbered line weights). Covers most every situation I face. At this point, that collection is pretty complete. I’ve noticed though, that 5-weights, 3-weights, 7-weights, etc. have been getting a lot more mention in postings here, in magazine articles, and so forth. I think someone starting now would probably be in the odd-numbered weights? Is there a reason for this? More importantly, is there any way I can use this as a way to convince my wife that I need 3, 5, 7 and 9-weight rods?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m giving a lot away about age here, but my very first fly rod wasn’t rated for line weight. It was rated for diameter. "H" was the small diameter; "A" was as thick as you could get. HCH would be a double taper, with "C" being the middle diameter. Density wasn’t mentioned, nor was weight. So rods might cast an HCH floating line, but an HEH (!) sinker. And you could really only tell by trial and error. As you might guess, the weight system was and is a godsend. When I bought my first weight-rated rod, the generally-recommended line for trout stream fishing was a 6. Naturally, that’s where I started. Over the years I’ve accumulated a "kangaroo quiver" of rods. That is, line weights 2, 4, 6 and 8 (hopping over the odd numbered line weights). Covers most every situation I face. At this point, that collection is pretty complete. I’ve noticed though, that 5-weights, 3-weights, 7-weights, etc. have been getting a lot more mention in postings here, in magazine articles, and so forth. I think someone starting now would probably be in the odd-numbered weights? Is there a reason for this? More importantly, is there any way I can use this as a way to convince my wife that I need 3, 5, 7 and 9-weight rods?

Simply put-yes,no. Actually Most people are like you and me, evens. However I do have 3, 5, 7 also. Because most people started out even, there is a large market for odds. Magazines sell adds, adds sell products. Writters are paid by magazines nuff said. In my case I bought a 7.5′ 3wt for bream, the 8wt for bass, 7wt for salt or big trout and 5wt for average to big trout. If you get the cheaper rods and spend the difference on flowers you gat a chance.                                                        John Popp                                                    in Sanford Fl.

Response:

I think someone starting now would probably be in the odd-numbered weights? Is there a reason for this? More importantly, is there any way I can use this as a way to convince my wife that I need 3, 5, 7 and 9-weight rods?

  There is a reason for it:  materials.  WIth today’s carbon-fibre rods, a five weight can carry the workload that a six weight used to, but you benefit from the additional touch of the lighter rod, and also fromthe fact that it’s, well, lighter.  Your arm doesn’t get as tired.   Does that mean you should go load up on odd numbers…man, I’m not gonna be the man to face your wife with that one.

Response:

I’m giving a lot away about age here, but my very first fly rod wasn’t rated for line weight. It was rated for diameter. "H" was the small diameter; "A" was as thick as you could get. HCH would be a double taper, with "C" being the middle diameter. Density wasn’t mentioned, nor was weight. So rods might cast an HCH floating line, but an HEH (!) sinker. And you could really only tell by trial and error. As you might guess, the weight system was and is a godsend. When I bought my first weight-rated rod, the generally-recommended line for trout stream fishing was a 6. Naturally, that’s where I started. Over the years I’ve accumulated a "kangaroo quiver" of rods. That is, line weights 2, 4, 6 and 8 (hopping over the odd numbered line weights). Covers most every situation I face. At this point, that collection is pretty complete. I’ve noticed though, that 5-weights, 3-weights, 7-weights, etc. have been getting a lot more mention in postings here, in magazine articles, and so forth. I think someone starting now would probably be in the odd-numbered weights? Is there a reason for this? More importantly, is there any way I can use this as a way to convince my wife that I need 3, 5, 7 and 9-weight rods?

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Md and Va saltwater licenses are recipocle (sp) — bob D&B Marine http://www.tqci.net/~dbmarine 888-535-BOAT Big Gunpowder Falls River in Maryland has some very nice Browns and Rainbows.  Lots of catch and release stretches.  There is a good fly shop in Monkton I will be relocating to the Washington, DC area next month and I would love to have any fishing info for the area (including Chesapeake Bay).  Bait shops for advice, public fishing areas, tackle choices, where to get a fishing license for Virginia/Maryland (do I need both states and fresh and saltwater?), time of year to catch certain fish.  I’ll take anything related please respond via e-mail Barry

I think you will find this helpful… <http://www.gmu.edu/bios/bay/links.htm

Response:

Big Gunpowder Falls River in Maryland has some very nice Browns and Rainbows.  Lots of catch and release stretches.  There is a good fly shop in Monkton

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I will be relocating to the Washington, DC area next month and I would love to have any fishing info for the area (including Chesapeake Bay).  Bait shops for advice, public fishing areas, tackle choices, where to get a fishing license for Virginia/Maryland (do I need both states and fresh and saltwater?), time of year to catch certain fish.  I’ll take anything related please respond via e-mail Barry

Response:

Md and Va saltwater licenses are recipocle (sp) — bob D&B Marine http://www.tqci.net/~dbmarine 888-535-BOAT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Big Gunpowder Falls River in Maryland has some very nice Browns and Rainbows.  Lots of catch and release stretches.  There is a good fly shop in Monkton I will be relocating to the Washington, DC area next month and I would love to have any fishing info for the area (including Chesapeake Bay).  Bait shops for advice, public fishing areas, tackle choices, where to get a fishing license for Virginia/Maryland (do I need both states and fresh and saltwater?), time of year to catch certain fish.  I’ll take anything related please respond via e-mail Barry

Response:

I will be relocating to the Washington, DC area next month and I would love to have any fishing info for the area (including Chesapeake Bay).  Bait shops for advice, public fishing areas, tackle choices, where to get a fishing license for Virginia/Maryland (do I need both states and fresh and saltwater?), time of year to catch certain fish.  I’ll take anything related please respond via e-mail Barry

Response:

Check out worldwideangler.com or chesapeakeangler.com different name same site. Good luck

I will be relocating to the Washington, DC area next month and I would love to have any fishing info for the area (including Chesapeake Bay).  Bait shops for advice, public fishing areas, tackle choices, where to get a fishing license for Virginia/Maryland (do I need both states and fresh and saltwater?), time of year to catch certain fish.  I’ll take anything related please respond via e-mail Barry — Flyfish NC                                                   Gordon Churchill http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/3853                                                                    

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Question:

Jim Do you have another tune or will you carry on repeating the same quote ad infinitum?? (Latin, save you looking it up!). — Regards Peter (Please also reply by email, my server "loses" posts. Remove nospam to email) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads. That said, I *am* an unabashed Animal Rights supporter. Moe, please explain how you an AR-loon like yourself can advocate eating fish while at the same time supporting the view that that fish have "rights". You cannot have it both ways.

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Nah, it’s the same thing that Tim does (or did).  Same thing time after time.  Apparently there’s some bad blood between the two. Although I think it’s a very good question.  The two statements do seem to be at odds with each other. Later,      - Ken — Not speaking for anyone but myself – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim Do you have another tune or will you carry on repeating the same quote ad infinitum?? (Latin, save you looking it up!). — Regards Peter (Please also reply by email, my server "loses" posts. Remove nospam to email) Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads. That said, I *am* an unabashed Animal Rights supporter. Moe, please explain how you an AR-loon like yourself can advocate eating fish while at the same time supporting the view that that fish have "rights". You cannot have it both ways.

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Me to fish: "You have the right to live. You have the right to try to eat my flies. You have the right to try to escape. You have the right to be released sometimes. You have the right to be my meal." "Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."  – E. Philips

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads. That said, I *am* an unabashed Animal Rights supporter. Moe, please explain how you an AR-loon like yourself can advocate eating fish while at the same time supporting the view that that fish have "rights". You cannot have it both ways.

Hey Powlesland Ever hear of the food chain? your an imbecilic dweeb….. –Walt

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads. That said, I *am* an unabashed Animal Rights supporter. Moe, please explain how you an AR-loon like yourself can advocate eating fish while at the same time supporting the view that that fish have "rights". You cannot have it both ways. Hey Powlesland Ever hear of the food chain? your an imbecilic dweeb…..

Walt, I think you missed his point…and lighten up.      - Ken — Not speaking for anyone but myself

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.   Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

1. Lite a fire 2. Fill gut cavity with small amount of brown sugar and salt 3. Wrap fish in foil 4. Put wrapped fish in embers and wait ten minutes 5. Have cigarette and beer 6. EAT

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Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time. Lloyd Fortney

Another argument for cannibalism. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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I hope thats humor, because I thought it funny. Who in the hell would pass up Trout for dinner to eat a can of "processed" meat? Love them Trout,

Spam (the national food of Hawaii, no joke) is a damned good backup if the fish aren’t on the bite…it will sustain you AND make you try a little harder the next day… — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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In all seriousness… If you’re backpacking, all you’ll need is to take an empty spice container and whup up some TBone’s Backpacking Spice (80% salt, 10% pepper, 9% Onion Powder, 1% Garlic powder). Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads.  Now, take a regulation weiner stick and slide it between the spine and skin and expose the belly to some ready coals.  As it cooks it will open up.  When ready to eat (use your fingers) sprinkle some TBS on the flesh and enjoy.   If God decides he needs you on the spot, you’ll be ready to go buddy.   Have a great trip. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

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I would rather carry Ramen noodles. Very light, cheap, easy, full of carbos, and a good side dish with the Trout. I can not identify nor stomache SPAM. Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hope thats humor, because I thought it funny. Who in the hell would pass up Trout for dinner to eat a can of "processed" meat? Love them Trout, Spam (the national food of Hawaii, no joke) is a damned good backup if the fish aren’t on the bite…it will sustain you AND make you try a little harder the next day… — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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Take some spam…ok, I’ll kill a pig instead of a trout. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time. Lloyd Fortney Another argument for cannibalism. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.   Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time.

Yikes, I tried that last year and it seriously depleted my supply of Mr.Softy. (being in a Ponderosa Pine forest, I couldn’t resort to Sargent Scratchy-Yow!). To restore my well-being I went back to the tried and true Trout Burritos. Take a frying pan, a small vial of olive oil, an onion or garlic and some flour tortillas.  A campstove vs. a campfire will diminish your impact in high country more significantly than the release of one or two trout.   Saute the onion and/or garlic in olive oil, then stuff this in the trout and lay it in the pan. Turn the heat low and cover with four tortillas. Turn the trout once and rotate the tortillas to warm them all. Remove the bones and fins and roll up in the tortillas with the onions.   Mark Vinsel

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Animal rights…..hmmm…I bet our native prairies wish they had had rights before they were plowed under for food crops.  Ever rip a living plant out of the ground, or twist an ear off a corn plant? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Catch some brookies and clean them, removing the heads. That said, I *am* an unabashed Animal Rights supporter. Moe, please explain how you an AR-loon like yourself can advocate eating fish while at the same time supporting the view that that fish have "rights". You cannot have it both ways.

Response:

Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

All these recipes are sounding great.    A tip: if you happen to run into some  ’muddy’ tasting trout (you probably won’t in the Bob Marshall), try skinning them before cooking.   Most of the muddy taste in trout is in the fat on the inside of the skin, and transfers to the meat while cooking.   (Not true with catfish.) Max http://www.inetarena.com/~mwi

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Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

Just a little warning. The regulations in the Bob Marshall are rather strange. You can only take three fish *under* 12", and you can’t take several restricted species. (Basically, anything but Cutthroats and Rainbows.) You might think this is never enforced in a wilderness area, but the last time I was there (last July) we encountered three extremely aggressive and well-armed fish and game wardens. Fortunately, we were in full compliance. One more thing. Some watersheds have a lot of whitefish. There is no limit on them, and they’re pretty tasty, but rather boney. There’s no excuse for releasing a whitefish, as they compete with trout. It you don’t want to eat it then throw it on the bank for the critters.         Steve Barnard

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Why should it? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Nova Scotia standard fry your catch recipe: Clean trout, (we NEVER fillet trout) Roll in corn meal Fry in bacon fat (from three slices done up just before, or use oil) 7 min per side per pound Heaven I eat some, I put most back – selective catch and release – depends on hunger!!!!! Bill Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy. — Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada Phone or Fax :  902-656-3329 http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

Place trout on a sheet of foil large enough to totally wrap.  Place alternating slices of onions and tomatos on top.  Squeeze juice from one lemon over the trout, then add several thin slices of butter on top. Wrap it up with the foil and throw it on the fire.  Also great in the oven too.  Eat with slices of French bread to soak up the juices.     Or…. salt and pepper the trout, then roll in cornmeal and fry away. Gotta go now… getting hungry.                                                               Spy in Hi.

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Nova Scotia standard fry your catch recipe: Clean trout, (we NEVER fillet trout) Roll in corn meal Fry in bacon fat (from three slices done up just before, or use oil) 7 min per side per pound Heaven I eat some, I put most back – selective catch and release – depends on hunger!!!!! Bill Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

– Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada Phone or Fax :  902-656-3329 http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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Cooked over hot coals in open air is great. In foil w/ salt, pepper and garlic is good under the coals is good.  (Put buttered white bread in the body cavity to add flavor and soak up juices — discard the bread after cooking.) Broiled is good. Sauteed in butter is good. Poached in white wine is good. Smoked is good. Boiled with old socks is not good. "Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."  – E. Philips

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Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy. Fillet a decent sized trout.  Roll the fillets in some Ritz cracker crumbs and fry in a mixture of a little butter and olive oil.  When the fish is nearly done, drip some soy sauce on top of the fish.  Um um good.

That does sound good! Personally, I like the smaller fish, 12" or under, not filleted, that can be fried crispy enough so you can eat the fins and the tail. Actually, panfish from brackish water are much better eating.         Steve Barnard

Response:

Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

Response:

Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

  Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

I hope thats humor, because I thought it funny. Who in the hell would pass up Trout for dinner to eat a can of "processed" meat? Love them Trout, Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.   Take some Spam and put the trout back for next time. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

Does anyone have a good trout recipe?  I’ll be heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness later this summer and a frying pan (or a tinfoil baking) full of trout would be quite yummy.

Fillet a decent sized trout.  Roll the fillets in some Ritz cracker crumbs and fry in a mixture of a little butter and olive oil.  When the fish is nearly done, drip some soy sauce on top of the fish.  Um um good.

Response:

Question:

Has anybody herd of a train derailment / diesel spill on Cayuga Inlet South of Ithaca NY ?  If so can you post the details. tnx

Response:

I was fishing in Ithaca in November and signs were posted by the DEC all along the Cayuga Inlet  forbidding fishing until further notice due to diesel fuel contamination.

Response:

I was fishing in Ithaca in November and signs were posted by the DEC all along the Cayuga Inlet  forbidding fishing until further notice due to diesel fuel contamination.

I had an article on the spill from the Syracuse Herald (?) on my site about three weeks ago.  I don’t know if the story is still up on their site, but I know my link is still up.  Check the Fishing News section, http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297/fishing.htm Mark Cahill’s Fishing New England – Daily Fishing News Also, a deja news search may turn up a post in this group at about the same time.  I forget who posted it, but he had fairly good detail on the spill. As I recall he reported a whole bunch of floating trout. — Mark Cahill For E-mail remove the _Remove_This from the reply to address. http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297/fishing.htm Mark Cahill’s Fishing New England – Daily Fishing News http://www.reel-time.com/ The Internet Journal of Saltwater Fly Fishing – Metropolitan Boston Regional Editor

Response:

******* I was fishing in Ithaca in November and signs were posted by the DEC all along the Cayuga Inlet  forbidding fishing until further notice due to diesel fuel contamination. In a situation like this, is fishing forbidden or just keeping and eating? Why? William Buchman

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Question:

I recently broke the fly rod that I grew up fishing – an 8 ft 8 wt fiberglass Shakespeare.  I need to replace it and want a rod that I will not "out grow".  I have considered an L.L. Bean guide series 9 ft, 7 or 8 wt at about $200 with a lifetime unconditional guarantee.  I also saw a 9 ft 8 wt Loomis IMX recently for $275 on a close-out.  The Loomis cast very nicely.  I have not felt the Bean rod but have always been very happy with their products. Any advice would be appreciated.  How much better is the Loomis & is it worth the extra money?  Has anyone used the Bean rod? I grew up fishing for pickerel and bass in Delaware, but I primarily fish for Steelhead and smallmouth bass since moving to California and would like to do some Shad fishing.

Response:

Check out the St. Croix Products I Think For your money they rate up their with poles hundreds of $ more. — Larry D. Madison Life without Black would surely make White blind You. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently broke the fly rod that I grew up fishing – an 8 ft 8 wt fiberglass Shakespeare.  I need to replace it and want a rod that I will not "out grow".  I have considered an L.L. Bean guide series 9 ft, 7 or 8 wt at about $200 with a lifetime unconditional guarantee.  I also saw a 9 ft 8 wt Loomis IMX recently for $275 on a close-out.  The Loomis cast very nicely.  I have not felt the Bean rod but have always been very happy with their products. Any advice would be appreciated.  How much better is the Loomis & is it worth the extra money?  Has anyone used the Bean rod? I grew up fishing for pickerel and bass in Delaware, but I primarily fish for Steelhead and smallmouth bass since moving to California and would like to do some Shad fishing.

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Question:

I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA.

Response:

I use a Dremel Moto-tool with a cutting disc and slice the reel seat lengthwise in two spots opposite each other on the seat.  Be careful not to cut into the blank.  A flat blade screwdriver inserted into the cut and twisted does the rest.  For the cork, a utility knife and a pair of channel lock pliers are my weapons of choice. Like was suggested earlier, get rid of as much of the old epoxy as possible.  I shave it off with the utility knife.  Before starting the new handle, wrap the butt of the blank with thread and epoxy to build it up level.  This way the new grip can be installed from the butt and you won’t have to redo the guides as well. If you decide to use heat to break the epoxy bond under the reel seat, be extremely careful.  Remember that it’s basically the same epoxy that holds the fibers of the blank together. — Carl Woods Richmond, VA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA.

Response:

(Arnold Kaida) writes: I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA.

I’d try to heat the reelseat in boiling water and breakdown the epoxy. DO NOT apply a flame to the reelseat. After removing the reelseat use a razor to remove most of the cork, then lightly sand the rest off the blank without sanding into the graphite. Then (guessing from ucla.edu) head down to Bob Marriott’s in Fullerton and pick out your new reelseat and cork grip. Make sure they match each other. Epoxy them on with 5 minute epoxy (In case of future replacement needs this glue will breakdown with heat). Wrap blank with 1/4" strips of masking tape to build the blank up to proper O.D. to match the reelseat/grip I.D’s. Don Burns

Response:

I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA.

The grip is no problem, but the reel seat can be tough to dislodge. There are various means of getting the seat off, most of which involve lots of heat and risk to the blank. My suggestion is to stick to replacing the grip, unless you are really unhappy with the seat.  Replacing the seat is nto a "whiel you are at it" task.  To get the grip off, just carve it off with a knife.  As you get closer to the blank, you might want to sand off the last fraction of an inch so that  you don’t risk nicking the blank.  Once the grip is off, take off the stirpper guide and any other guide on the butt section of the rod.  If you are using a preformed grip to replace the old, simply fit the new grip to the blank by sliding it over the ferrule end of the butt section.  Ream out the grip or build up the blank with masking tape so that there is a proper fit.  Then replace the winding check and stripper guide.   Lyman Lyman G. Hughes Dallas, TX Ennis, MT

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Arnold Kaida) writes: I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA. I’d try to heat the reelseat in boiling water and breakdown the epoxy. DO NOT apply a flame to the reelseat. After removing the reelseat use a razor to remove most of the cork, then lightly sand the rest off the blank without sanding into the graphite. Then (guessing from ucla.edu) head down to Bob Marriott’s in Fullerton and pick out your new reelseat and cork grip. Make sure they match each other. Don Burns

Thanks Don.  The seat refused to budge after soaking in boiling water. So, I finally cut it off with my Dremel mototool and a cutting disk. Wish I had decided to do this before the Flyfishing Fair a couple of weeks ago.  I could have saved a 60 mile drive.  Did you see the distance casting demo by Steve Ratjeff (sp?) the G. Loomis rep? Amazing.

Response:

Check out our home page at www.compleat-angler.com

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I’ve decided, a little too late, that the grip I’ve mounted on my Sage 9′ 7wt blank is much too thin in diameter.  I want to go with a full Wells. While I’m at it I might as well change the seat. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best remove the grip and seat which are expoxied  to the blank?  Or is it beyond hope?  TIA.

There is really nothing that is quick.  Perhaps the easiest way to remove the reel seat  is to hold the butt end of the rod in a pot of boiling water on the stove for about fifteen minutes or so; this will make the epoxy reasonably plastic, and you should be able to pull it off with a strong tug before it cools (use oven mitts, of course).  If you have a wood insert, it will be ruined, but they are reasonably inexpensive. For the grip, the only way I know of is to slice and dice the cork and carefully sand off most of the remaining epoxy.   Works for me; I do it every time…. Joe I.

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Question:

: I use 25-lb hard mono, and I don’t have hardly any problems.   : After every fish, run the leader between your lips (they’re more : sensitive than your cold hands) to check for abrasions and : splits.  If you find some, cut that section off. : -M. Smith The guys around here use twelve inches of piano wire or guitar string as a leader (tippet?).  I find it stiffer than mono, but the stuff *never* gets bitten through.  Also, it won’t rust. However, it isn’t the nicest stuff to cast.  Maybe I’ll give the hard mono a try. Pete

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : I use 25-lb hard mono, and I don’t have hardly any problems.   : After every fish, run the leader between your lips (they’re more : sensitive than your cold hands) to check for abrasions and : splits.  If you find some, cut that section off. : -M. Smith The guys around here use twelve inches of piano wire or guitar string as a leader (tippet?).  I find it stiffer than mono, but the stuff *never* gets bitten through.  Also, it won’t rust. However, it isn’t the nicest stuff to cast.  Maybe I’ll give the hard mono a try. Pete

   I’ve had bad luck with hard mono for pike.  Last spring I was using 30# hard mason and I broke off something like three out of five time (I gave up after five times, and yes, I did check it for nicks after each fish).  There has to be a subtle trick to using mono leaders for pike because some people swear by it, but it’s never worked for me.    On the other hand, I think the flexible coated wire sold by Orvis works outstanding.  You can tie it to your leader with a surgeon’s or Albright knot and use a duncan loop to attach it to your fly.  No haywire twists or melt knots/fire to mess with. The coating wears off the first two or three inches after a few pike, but it’s easy to retie.  I’ve used it almost exclusively on my last two trips to Saskatchewan and never had a failure with pike up to 42" (about 20#).    As to be expected, Orvis wants way too much money for the stuff, but this is one thing that I’ll pay a little extra for. Another drawback is it’s fine diamter can cut into the leader if you’re not careful, as I found out when fishing for barracuda (makes pike look like a freshwater pussy cat). Rob Gregoire Dallas, Tx

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Hello! A few questions to the oracle How do stop the pike from biting the line off? ( I don’t know the terminology, sorry). Do you put a steelwire there, as you do with a spinning line, or just a thicker regular line?. Also, any hints on wich flies to use is appreciated.                                         Thanx//Klas —                    And now young Skywalker, you will die!                      - The Emperor, Return of the Jedi

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(Klas P Geiron) writes: How do stop the pike from biting the line off? ( I don’t know the terminology, sorry). Do you put a steelwire there,

Yes, use steel shock tippets if you want to keep your flies.  You can also use really heavy mono shock tippet, but I have had pike bite through (looks like a razor cut) 65lb. mono on the strike when I didn’t have the wire tippets.   You can buy pre-looped bite guards from Orvis ($7.25 to $8.50 for a pack of 10) or make your own by buying nylon coated wire from just about any bait shop. If you make your own, use a haywire twist to make a loop on one end and hold the twists under a flame to melt the nylon together (makes a 90%+ knot).  This gives you a loop to loop to your leader.You need to use different knots with the wire to attach the fly.   A figure 8 knot is simple and works great .  Looks like it will slip, but it never does.                        Hope this helps,                                 Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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(Klas P Geiron) writes: How do stop the pike from biting the line off? ( I don’t know the terminology, sorry). Do you put a steelwire there,

I’ve been using kevlar pike tress. It works fine and is easier to cast than steel wire. Heavy monofil nylon is NOT 100% sure. /Tord Andreasson

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Klas P Geiron) writes: How do stop the pike from biting the line off? ( I don’t know the terminology, sorry). Do you put a steelwire there, I’ve been using kevlar pike tress. It works fine and is easier to cast than steel wire. Heavy monofil nylon is NOT 100% sure. /Tord Andreasson I’ve used steel leader material that is nylon covered. About 18" does the trick. There are small lead sleeves used to crimp the leader ends in small loops, to attach your fly and the line.   I had no trouble casting or breaking using a loop to loop connection on my setup.  I think I ordered my material from CAblela’s

Just my two cents worth: I have found that mono is about 100% sure. I certainly hate using steel or wire leaders to flyfish with, so my solution is to have used 50 lb. mono, about a foot or so of it. This has worked on everything toothy from our pickerel here in Nova Scotia, to some good sized blues in Florida !! (I know it’s a personal thing, but wire makes it feel so much like light tackle spinning – which is great, just not fly fishing) Bill

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Question:

I’ve had my best luck on a white popper or slider with rubber band legs. Muddler Minnows and small black dalhberg divers also work well.

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Walmart has a popper made by Arcarro called a "Miss Prissy". It is a killer for almost anything that will strike topwater. As far as rod size, I haven’t seen a smallmouth that you can’t handle with a 5 or 6 weight.

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MY best luck is down lower with a black woolly bugger size 2 to 8, weighted up front with barbell eyes various weights. on top i have good luck with a Betts bull-it-head, black and silver, similar action to a rapala. good luck karl

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I have had over the years success with Orange Wooly Worms, # 8-10. I also had good luck with white poppers that I made out of balsa wood, size 6. The Wooly worm pattern was an interesting story. My family has a cottage on Charleston Lake, in Ontario. I have spent summer vacation time up there since I was a small boy. One hot, windless, sunny, July afternoon I was paddling slowly in a canoe with about 30 feet of fly line hangin out the back. I was catching perch, rock bass, bluegills, etc., when out of the blue a smallmouth leaped out of the water. A second later I realized he was on my line – after about 15 min, I had about a 4 lb smallmouth up to the canoe. Since then, that strategy has worked a few times. Or course, the sunfish keep me busy if nothing else. While I’m on fish stories, the other method that I use to catch small mouth up there is Black, wooden (only have a few left!) Helin Flatfish with orange spots (musky size) fished in pitch black between 12am and 6 am. Night fishing became a requirement since I have little kids. Once they’re in bed, I go out fishing. For surefire smallmouth fishing up there, though, nothing beats jigs. Rick Frank jigs. Rick Frank jigs. Rick Frank jigs. Rick Frank

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    The Green Crystal Bugger is the best underwater bass fly I have ever used. It works so well in the Potomac and James Rivers I almost hesitate to suggest it’s use. .  It is ugly and guady (sp) and until my fishing buddy put one on and demonstrated it a few years ago, I would never have used such a thing but….. maybe I’m not sucha purist after all.  Maybe we can talk about orange poly egg flies on the Madison another day Hmmm..                                           regards   leo

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I have been throwing the fly after smallies for approximately 15 years. It seems that my fishin buddies and I are always having a friendly discussion over which color seems to be the best.  In actuality, it isn’t really a fly that we’re using but a popper!  Any comments as to what fly/popper and what color do you suggest for this treat?  We fish in Ontario, Canada (Lake of the Woods area) from late May thru late June! I would appreciate any and all comments!

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I’ve found screaming green (as neon as you can get) to be a good bet for smallmouth. Failing that, a nice bright yellow or yellow/black band popper does nicely, too. Have you tried any subsurface action on buggers and streamers? JL 8-Wt Editor

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I have been throwing the fly after smallies for approximately 15 years. It seems that my fishin buddies and I are always having a friendly discussion over which color seems to be the best.  In actuality, it isn’t really a fly that we’re using but a popper!  Any comments as to what fly/popper and what color do you suggest for this treat?  We fish in Ontario, Canada (Lake of the Woods area) from late May thru late June! I would appreciate any and all comments!

In the streams of Kentucky a solid yellow popper works as well as any.

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        No suggestion; but I do have a question about your small mouth rod. What weight and lenght of rod do you fish for small mouth bass?                                         Sincerely,                                         Clint Bailey

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I have been throwing the fly after smallies for approximately 15 years. It seems that my fishin buddies and I are always having a friendly discussion over which color seems to be the best.  In actuality, it isn’t really a fly that we’re using but a popper!  Any comments as to what fly/popper and what color do you suggest for this treat?  We fish in Ontario, Canada (Lake of the Woods area) from late May thru late June!

My experience (and books) is that poppers are excellent locators (to make bass show) but poor hookers.  I get most hits on half-inch poppers with #8 hooks but hook fewer than 50%.  Bigger poppers hook more than 50% but attract fewer strikes (from smallmouth in a river).  How does Bug313 compare? (If a bass strikes twice at a popper without a hookup, I usually get it on a Muddler just subsurface.) —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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   No suggestion; but I do have a question about your small mouth rod. What weight and lenght of rod do you fish for small mouth bass?

Line weight 7 to 9, so as to throw heavy poppers or big streamers when you need to;  length 8.5 to 9 feet.  Very few people have the strength to use efficiently a rod longer than 9 feet, i.e. move the tip (and line) as fast as they can with a slightly shorter rod.  It’s tip speed that counts, not mere leverage. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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