Question:

        With the 4 wt. line repaired, a new leader tied up, and an assortment of new flies to try, it was back to the pond this afternoon.  Had to leave work early to get some estimates on windshield repair after a gravel truck "rocked" me Monday evening, leaving a couple nasty chips in the windscreen. Bloody hell.  Got that taken care of (at least the estimating and insurance claim part), and had a few hours left to worry the panfish with my latest offerings.         At the tying bench, I rigged up some mosquito larvae, and three each of partridge and red, partridge and orange, and partridge and yellow soft hackles in #12.  It was supposed to be light wind today, and I suppose by ND standards it was (10-15 mph and a bit gusty).  Enough though to make casting the 4 wt. a bit interesting.         Taking a look at the water as I rigged up, I didn’t see any surface action, even in the sheltered areas.  Did note several "stalkers", hanging about a foot below the surface.  They would slowly rise at intervals, gently taking some tiny stuff on its way to the surface.  Hmmm, could be interesting…         Decided that since it’d been rather cool and cloudy for several days past, perhaps a brighter colour would be in order. Split the difference and tied on a partridge and orange.  A couple casts near a stalker had it charge the soft hackle and I brought the first fish to hand.  Promising start.         The fish were holding along a shade line about 25-30 ft. out. Delicate and accurate casting required, lest one put them down. The 4 wt. really shone here, even with having to deal with the wind.  Of course, I *did* manage to put them down on more than one occasion, but left to their own devices for 5 minutes or so, they’d take up station again.         This was quite a fascinating exercise — casting to these stalking fish.  If I dropped the fly within about 3-4" of their nose, they’d usually make a grab for it.  If it was closer than that, it’d spook the fish, and it’d go down.  Much further than 5" from their nose, and they’d be disinclined to chase it, often as not. Dragging the fly through the strike zone would induce some fish to strike and others to follow.  Some would follow for a considerable distance, say 10-15′+ before they either decided it looked good enough to eat (the less frequent case), or that it was something "fishy", and break off persuit.  Never could tell what would happen.         At least one fish came off his stalking station some three feet to whack the P&O with authority.  Others needed several casts more or less in front of their nose before they would either go down or give the fly a taste test.  Very visual fishing, and great fun!         Had one crappie take the P&O as well, and got him in close before he executed an LDR.  I worked the stalkers for quite a while before they finally went down to stay, and I moved to another part of the pond.         Here, I found cruisers working quite close to shore along with the suspending stalkers.  Flipped into a shade edge near where some of the stalkers were working, and got thumped, followed by a more vigorous than usual pull.  Most of the bluegill I’d been getting had been in the 7-8" range, with a few around 9", but this fish pulled like a freight train, relatively speaking.  Fought this fish for a couple minutes before bringing him up.  A real bull bluegill, measuring an honest 11", and biggest I’ve seen out of the pond!  Indeed, one of the larger ones I’ve *ever* taken on *any* tackle, let alone on a fly rod.         That was really neat, but what followed was even better. I noticed a rainbow cruising in the shade near the shoreline, and made a cast to it.  Haven’t had any great luck on the stocked rainbows, but this was about to change…  My cast went a bit beyond him, and off to one side.  Starting a slow retrieve, I could see him change direction and make a bee-line toward the fly. This is usually where they come up on it, and go "pbbbbtttt" at me.  Not this time!  He came right up to the fly, and in a whink the fly was gone.  Set the hook, and had the little beggar on the line!  He put on a good show with two nice jumps before I finally brought him to hand.  The tape said 11 3/4", and I was doing a happy dance for *finally* outwitting one of those finicky rainbows.  Deep intense green over the back, and nice colour on the sides to boot.  Very pretty fish.  On the other hand, it wasn’t exactly what one would call fat.  Looked more like an oversized, colourful smelt, save for the typical salmonid head. Suspect the forage base in the pond, which is near 100% insect life from what I’ve been able to observe, isn’t sufficient to fatten them up.         Had another rainbow follow the P&O and take a nip at it, but didn’t hook him up.  Went back to working bluegill, and wound up with a good number more brought to hand before I finally called it a day.  Quit counting bluegill after 50 fish caught and released, but would guess the total for the three hour session at 65-75 fish.  All on the same P&O soft hackle, which now is pretty well shredded, needless to say.         The trout was a nice bonus, after more than a few frustrating attempts and a couple near misses trying to bring one to hand. Been quite a while since I’ve caught trout while actually fishing for them.  The last  time I did was quite memorable.  One of my younger brothers and a friend of his wanted me to show them how to flyfish.  We went up to a trout lake, launched the boat, and messed around with spoons and such for some of the other species in the lake with no luck.  Brother starts to get on my case about fly fishing.  I rigged up the 7 wt., tied on a bead head GRHE, looked for a likely spot to make a cast, and launched my line.  Strip…  strip… strip.. *wham*, fish on!  After a brief fight, brought a nice, fat 15" rainbow to hand.  Unhooked the fish, put it in the livewell for a well-deserved trout dinner, unstrung and cased my rod, turned to brother and said "that, dear brother, is how you fly fish.".  I *did* work with him and his friend on casting, etc., but they didn’t catch cold, let alone any fish, and he lost interest in flyfishing shortly thereafter.  Indeed, he pretty well lost interest in fishing period, and took up golf instead.  Oh well, I tried! Todd

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assortment of new flies to try, it was back to the pond this afternoon.

Thanks for another great pond trip report. i sure am enjoying your shareing your series of adventures at the pond. Big Dale

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Question:

Man, that does sound like a fun technique! Here, fishy, fishy… john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My kennel manager is on vacation, so lots of work for me, but I have been getting out for an hour or two after dinner. Fishing has been good and I’ve come across something I find interesting. At sunset, there are large numbers of spinners (I’m guessing they’re spinners but I haven’t been able to catch one) flying just over the surface occasionally skimming it. There are also some large Mayfly duns and a small Mayfly duns on the surface. There are a few splashy rises from fish chasing emergers but by far the majority of the "risers" are fish jumping clear out of the water to snag one of the spinners flying over the surface. I’ve seen this on an occasional basis, but some of the fish are doing this from a set feeding station and are jumping for the flies on a regular basis. This includes some decent fish. They totally ignore any of the duns that drift by. The flies are only about a size 16/18, so this jumping doesn’t seem "energy efficient" but me, but I’m no fish. I’ve been able to catch a few of them swinging soft hackles. I’ve also caught a some on a dry or emerger tied on an upper a bloodknot dropper with a weighted nymph below. The weighted nymph serves as an anchor and by holding the rod high, the fly on the dropper can be made to skim the surface, stay above it or bounce on the surface. It’s the closest I can come to imitating the hovering flies. It’s been moderately effective with lots of missed fish jumping at the fly but it’s a fun technique. Willi

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……The flies are only about a size 16/18, so this jumping doesn’t seem "energy efficient" but me, but I’m no fish……

I suspect the energy expenditure is not as great as you might think. Fish are streamlined.  Putting on a short burst of speed which will carry them out of the water probably doesn’t cost them a great deal of effort.  The fact that they do so frequently for what seems a small reward bears suggests it is energy efficient. Wolfgang

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Willi    Try dapping.  Get some unwaxed dental floss (or silk floss, I prefer sky blue, the fish seem to ignore it) and cut about six 8 foot pieces.  Lay ‘em out side-by-side and knot the ends together.  Put a 3 foot tippet on one end and tie the other end to your fly line.  Get the longest pole you have and wait for a little bit of a wind.  The floss works as sail and you can skitter the fly over the surface of just above the surface like a hovering insect.  I’ve only caught two fish with the fly in the air but its a trip (okay, I snagged a couple more).  You just let the fish set the hook on itself.  Your natural reaction is to pull it away, don’t move.  Bigger the fly, the more lines of floss and vice versa.  You can use this technique while hiding in bushes on the bank. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

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Willi   Try dapping.  Get some unwaxed dental floss (or silk floss, I prefer sky blue, the fish seem to ignore it) and cut about six 8 foot pieces.  Lay ‘em out side-by-side and knot the ends together.  Put a 3 foot tippet on one end and tie the other end to your fly line.  Get the longest pole you have and wait for a little bit of a wind.  The floss works as sail and you can skitter the fly over the surface of just above the surface like a hovering insect.  I’ve only caught two fish with the fly in the air but its a trip (okay, I snagged a couple more).  You just let the fish set the hook on itself.  Your natural reaction is to pull it away, don’t move.  Bigger the fly, the more lines of floss and vice versa.  You can use this technique while hiding in bushes on the bank.

        this is the weirdest damn place i have ever been.         yfitons wayno

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My kennel manager is on vacation, so lots of work for me, but I have been getting out for an hour or two after dinner. Fishing has been good and I’ve come across something I find interesting. At sunset, there are large numbers of spinners (I’m guessing they’re spinners but I haven’t been able to catch one) flying just over the surface occasionally skimming it. There are also some large Mayfly duns and a small Mayfly duns on the surface. There are a few splashy rises from fish chasing emergers but by far the majority of the "risers" are fish jumping clear out of the water to snag one of the spinners flying over the surface. I’ve seen this on an occasional basis, but some of the fish are doing this from a set feeding station and are jumping for the flies on a regular basis. This includes some decent fish. They totally ignore any of the duns that drift by. The flies are only about a size 16/18, so this jumping doesn’t seem "energy efficient" but me, but I’m no fish. I’ve been able to catch a few of them swinging soft hackles. I’ve also caught a some on a dry or emerger tied on an upper a bloodknot dropper with a weighted nymph below. The weighted nymph serves as an anchor and by holding the rod high, the fly on the dropper can be made to skim the surface, stay above it or bounce on the surface. It’s the closest I can come to imitating the hovering flies. It’s been moderately effective with lots of missed fish jumping at the fly but it’s a fun technique.   Willi

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Question:

You won’t be mindin’ if we keep an eye on where the hole card comes from.  ;-)

hell no, i was going to get Honest Wayno’s Guide Service to do the dealing.  If you can’t trust an attorney, who can you trust? Personally, I was hoping one of Big John’s gals would handle the deal. About the fish, now I know why I’ve heard stories of you going through a crate of splitshot a season.  :)

don’t know ’bout ’shot…..you’d have to talk to Matt "egg-dredgin" McCray ’bout dat. Waldo, lost two wild brookies today….man I’m rusty.

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This Clave thing presents a great opportunity for a human interest story for a FFing magazine. Here’s the concept. A bunch of crusty old flyfishers get together in NC. They have only two things in common: a love of flyfishing and an acquaintance through ROFF. These guys don’t know each other face-to-face, for the most part, but they are acquainted through years and years of give-and-take in a Usenet group. Imagine the group dynamics. Who can outfish whom? Who can tell the biggest lies? Who knows the perfect knot? Who has the best self-tied flies? Will they check their weapons at the door? It goes on and on. Yep, it could be a great story. If you know a good writer please clue him in. — something bogus to avoid spam)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This Clave thing presents a great opportunity for a human interest story for a FFing magazine. (snip) Yep, it could be a great story. If you know a good writer please clue him in.         more than one of those will be present as participants.  you will not be disappointed with the communiques from the front, nor with reviews filed upon a chance for retrospection. wayno —

wayno, can i be the gun checker? btw, was that you are chub that got the sam in the ass saturday? makes you feel like that monkey, donchano. i can’t even view it now, it hurts. i’m off….damn tax thing tomorrow. waldo

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This Clave thing presents a great opportunity for a human interest story for a FFing magazine. (snip) Yep, it could be a great story. If you know a good writer please clue him in.

        more than one of those will be present as participants.  you will not be disappointed with the communiques from the front, nor with reviews filed upon a chance for retrospection. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text — something bogus to avoid spam)

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Mr. G. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This Clave thing presents a great opportunity for a human interest story for a FFing magazine. (snip) Yep, it could be a great story. If you know a good writer please clue him in.         more than one of those will be present as participants.  you will not be disappointed with the communiques from the front, nor with reviews filed upon a chance for retrospection. wayno — wayno, can i be the gun checker? btw, was that you are chub that got the sam in the ass saturday? makes you feel like that monkey, donchano. i can’t even view it now, it hurts. i’m off….damn tax thing tomorrow. waldo

– Visit: http://www.gink.com        http://www.xink.com        http://www.rodbuilding.com        http://www.rodbuilder.com All Writings & Rights Reserved

Question:

Anyone out there have experience fishing for muskie on this Vilas County lake?  Traveling there next week.  Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

Response:

(Sorry guys, not using my fly rod on this trip, though maybe I should bring it anyway?  Meant to post inquiry to general fishing ne ws group.)  TH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone out there have experience fishing for muskie on this Vilas County lake?  Traveling there next week.  Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

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Not fish with a fly rod ?!? Must not be a family relation. Wayne Hart To fish is human…to release devine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Sorry guys, not using my fly rod on this trip, though maybe I should bring it anyway?  Meant to post inquiry to general fishing ne ws group.)  TH Anyone out there have experience fishing for muskie on this Vilas County lake?  Traveling there next week.  Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

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Question:

Lost set up, hard drive kaput. need name of the usenet fly tying group. Any help appreciated. —  *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *       *  *  Skip Summer             From somewhere in the Huron River, *  *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *       *

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Lost set up, hard drive kaput. need name of the usenet fly tying group. Any help appreciated.

rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying — Charlie…

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Question:

Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution? Thanks! Patrick

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Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution?

Nassau, for the three reasons mentioned. — DAVe & Skoshi, ‘69 Stamas 26′ http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/mia/d/r/drsi/

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Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution?

How ’bout that endless expanse of white sand gliding by just inches below your keel…  Y’know, The Bottom.  Definitely, avoid the bottom.

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I will NEVER go back to Nassau! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution? How ’bout that endless expanse of white sand gliding by just inches below your keel…  Y’know, The Bottom.  Definitely, avoid the bottom.

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Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution? Thanks! Patrick

Nassau for sure!

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The northernmost Abacos seemed a tad dreary… of course it’s all relative; fishermen find Walker’s Cay a piscatorial paradise- scuba & beachcombing too. Norman’s Cay was a smuggling hotspot in the ’80s, but appears to be under control… now pilots fly there for fishing, scuba & gourmet food, not ‘business’.  Bimini & points south ditto. When cruising anywhere truly remote, tho, a bit of disgression is a good idea. Trimtab Does anyone have any place they recommend avoiding in the Bahamas for one reason or another… safety? crowds? pollution? Thanks! Patrick

Before you buy.

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All the places I go

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<snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is a case of advice that is misguided, and when one generalizes with "Never", they are failing to consider that numerous "lake" type vessels have made quite successful voyages to and through the Bahamas, simply by selecting the weather conditions appropriate to their vessel.  Obviously when a norther is blowing against the Stream, or the winter trades are at their best, even well found cruising designs find it wiser to remain in port, but to simply recommend against this voyage under any conditions, is to be out of touch with the reality of what frequently occurs with great success.  Pick your weather, ang go!  With the shoal draft, and large accomodations, a house boat can be a wonderful cruising design for the Bahamas, with the obvious necessity to carry adequate fuel. Good Cruising, 73 — Sean Holland NP2AU S/V Spindrift

You know in all the posts on this subject, nobody has thought to ask our intrepid boater just how fast his houseboat can go.  If he can wring 20kts out of it wihtout straining, it’s only a 2.5 or 3 hour crossing … more than enough time if he waits for the weather.  He can strap a liferaaft to the stern, tank up with gas, turn on his GPS, get out his charts and be in the Bahamas in time for lunch if he starts out at 0830!  The posters talking about leaving at night in order to get to port at the destination in the daylight are talking about doing 5 or 6 kts, not 15 or 20. If he really wants to know, he should take the boat offshore a ways to see how it reacts in ocean swells in the kind of weather he wants to cross in.  If he has trouble, he can head back; if he isn’t intent on crossing, he’ll head back anyway.  You’ll never know until you try it. Colin S.

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There are houseboats in the Virgin Islands and I’m sure they weren’t built there.

Sure there are; and they may have island hopped in good weather to get there.  Or they may have come as deck cargo on a freighter. I’m not trying to rain on your parade; but safety comes first, for both you and your crew. You worked hard all your life to enjoy your retirement.  Don’t become a U.S. Coast Guard statistic. Jim Md.

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Previously in response to a request for info on taking a house boat to the Bahamas someone said: You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be taken offshore.   If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket. There are houseboats in the Virgin Islands and I’m sure they weren’t built there.

This is a case of advice that is misguided, and when one generalizes with "Never", they are failing to consider that numerous "lake" type vessels have made quite successful voyages to and through the Bahamas, simply by selecting the weather conditions appropriate to their vessel.  Obviously when a norther is blowing against the Stream, or the winter trades are at their best, even well found cruising designs find it wiser to remain in port, but to simply recommend against this voyage under any conditions, is to be out of touch with the reality of what frequently occurs with great success.  Pick your weather, ang go!  With the shoal draft, and large accomodations, a house boat can be a wonderful cruising design for the Bahamas, with the obvious necessity to carry adequate fuel. Good Cruising, 73 — Sean Holland NP2AU S/V Spindrift

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This is a case of advice that is misguided, and when one generalizes with "Never", they are failing to consider that numerous "lake" type vessels have made quite successful voyages to and through the Bahamas, simply by selecting the weather conditions appropriate to their vessel.  Obviously when a norther is blowing against the Stream, or the winter trades are at their best, even well found cruising designs find it wiser to remain in port, but to simply recommend against this voyage under any conditions, is to be out of touch with the reality of what frequently occurs with great success.  Pick your weather, ang go!  With the shoal draft, and large accomodations, a house boat can be a wonderful cruising design for the Bahamas, with the obvious necessity to carry adequate fuel.

I agree that is is silly, if not rude, to tell a prospective motor boater or sailer to "buy an airplane ticket," but I still think that taking a houseboat across the Gulf Stream is, well, not smart.  To cross the stream under the best conditions, one must leave Florida in the evening in order to cross the bar at Bimini or go into the canal at Grand Bahama in daylight (and don’t Bahamas’ customs rules require daylight entry?)  Not all water-borne hazard will be spotted at night, and for an inexperienced captain, large cargo ships can be a real hazard; a flat bottom houseboat is not the vessel for maneouvering in shipping lanes. Also, the weather can never be predicted with the kind of reliability that would allow one to cross the Gulf Stream in a houseboat, particularly in winter, the main crusing time; and again, the deep water passages between the westerly cays and Nassau require better.   That "lake type sailboats" often venture to the Bahamas succesfully is merely an argument by ancedote, and so a dangerous one.  There are many, many, many cruisers anchored (right now!) in Elizabeth Harbor, off Georgetown, who got there on sheer luck alone.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is a case of advice that is misguided, and when one generalizes with "Never", they are failing to consider that numerous "lake" type vessels have made quite successful voyages to and through the Bahamas, simply by selecting the weather conditions appropriate to their vessel.  Obviously when a norther is blowing against the Stream, or the winter trades are at their best, even well found cruising designs find it wiser to remain in port, but to simply recommend against this voyage under any conditions, is to be out of touch with the reality of what frequently occurs with great success.  Pick your weather, ang go!  With the shoal draft, and large accomodations, a house boat can be a wonderful cruising design for the Bahamas, with the obvious necessity to carry adequate fuel. I agree that is is silly, if not rude, to tell a prospective motor boater or sailer to "buy an airplane ticket," but I still think that taking a houseboat across the Gulf Stream is, well, not smart.  To cross the stream under the best conditions, one must leave Florida in the evening in order to cross the bar at Bimini or go into the canal at Grand Bahama in daylight (and don’t Bahamas’ customs rules require daylight entry?)  Not all water-borne hazard will be spotted at night, and for an inexperienced captain, large cargo ships can be a real hazard; a flat bottom houseboat is not the vessel for maneouvering in shipping lanes. Also, the weather can never be predicted with the kind of reliability that would allow one to cross the Gulf Stream in a houseboat, particularly in winter, the main crusing time; and again, the deep water passages between the westerly cays and Nassau require better. That "lake type sailboats" often venture to the Bahamas succesfully is merely an argument by ancedote, and so a dangerous one.  There are many, many, many cruisers anchored (right now!) in Elizabeth Harbor, off Georgetown, who got there on sheer luck alone.

Another opinion:  A few years ago those of us who made 5 knots or less felt we should cross at night, so that if we missed the Bahamas altogether we would have all day to find the island we were looking for.  With GPS that is no longer necessary.  Easiest crossing is 50 NM from Lake Worth to West End  on Grand Bahama Island.  Anchor in Lake Worth until you are sure of settled weather with wind from the west.  I have waited as long as 10 days for the right conditions.  There will be other boats waiting out weather.  Often a group of boats cross together.  It is a comfort to cross with other boats.  The entrance to the marina at West End is tricky.  I have gone in there at least ten times, and I still worry about it. From West End on around as far as Little Harbor there are short hops and numerous anchorages.  I don’t recommend the stretch from Little Harbor to Eleuthera in a houseboat. I haven’t hear of a restriction on entering the Bahamas at night.  Go in and either anchor or dock, raise the yellow "Q" flag and don’t get off the boat until Customs arrives.

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Anchor in Lake Worth until you are sure of settled weather with wind from the west.  I have waited as long as 10 days for the right conditions. If the wind is out of the west, ahead of a cold front, wouldn’t you expect it to clock through NW then North as the front passes?  Not a good time to be in the stream. John L. Miller

Yes, sometimes the window is only about 4 hours from the time the wind picks up from the west (almost *always* in advance of a cold front) to the time it swings around to a 30 knot+ northerly gale.  Against the fast north- flowing Gulf Stream, the sea conditions become unbelievably bad with any breeze from the north. I’d ship the houseboat if I were you.  The Bahama banks would be a wonderful place for a boat like that, but getting it there across the Gulf Stream is quite a big risk. Dan

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 This is a case of advice that is misguided, and when one generalizes with "Never", they are failing to consider that numerous "lake" type vessels have made quite successful voyages to and through the Bahamas, simply by selecting the weather conditions appropriate to their vessel.

I said never and I meant never.  Houseboats are not designed for offshore work under any circumstances.  Talking about ideal wind and sea conditions is nonsense.  We are not explorers, we are pleasure boaters;   and there is no reason to place any person aboard in danger with a vessel which can only operate in ideal wind and sea conditions. The insurance companies share this view, I believe. Ask what the premium increase will be for a houseboat taken offshore.   Jim Md.

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Anchor in Lake Worth until you are sure of settled weather with wind from the west.  I have waited as long as 10 days for the right conditions.

If the wind is out of the west, ahead of a cold front, wouldn’t you expect it to clock through NW then North as the front passes?  Not a good time to be in the stream. John L. Miller

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Anchor in Lake Worth until you are sure of settled weather with wind from the west.  I have waited as long as 10 days for the right conditions. If the wind is out of the west, ahead of a cold front, wouldn’t you expect it to clock through NW then North as the front passes?  Not a good time to be in the stream. John L. Miller

Absolutely true! An Irwin 45 named "Sandy Lanes" that took off ahead of me in the westerlies before a strong cold front, wound up being driven ashore on the west side of Gun Cay! I waited until after the front passed when light southerlies began to blow and had no problem. — J.A. Rogers Sailaway Cruising Club http://www.cqws.com/zone1/sailaway/

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One of the respondents to Horace’ query stated: : You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be : taken offshore.  I might try it if I was a Haitian boat person; but : fortunately, I’m not. : : If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket. Depends on the houseboat, doesn’t it?  For shoal water cruising, a smaller houseboat, with less draft, would be far more appropriate than many of the offshore keelboats currently pussyfooting around the banks. Even a craft as large as Horace’s houseboat would be vastly preferable to a similar sized keelboat, if one wanted to follow the barrier reef down Andros Is. On the other hand, a craft as well-powered as Horace’s houseboat shouldn’t have problems finding an appropriate window of time, in which to cross the Straits of Florida safely. He’ll probably have greater problems finding a mooring at port of entry (grin). If I did it, I’d want a smaller boat with less than 2′ of draft, even if it were substantially slower.  But hell, if you’ve got the boat, and the desire (and the money)… Go for it, Horace! It should be a real adventure! Good Cruising, —      Bob Martin

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The boat is 60×14 with 22" of freeboard and a 42" draft. She has twin 228HP MercCruser outdrives and a fuel capacity of 175 Gals. Cruise speed at 1500RPM is about 8 knots with 21 knots at full speed. I plan to install Radar and GPS before the trip. Am I crazy or do you think this is possible ? What would you recommend ?

You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be taken offshore.  I might try it if I was a Haitian boat person; but fortunately, I’m not. If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket. YOu should keep that nice houseboat in sheltered waters.  And there are plenty of sheltered waters that are perfect for you.  How about the ICW from New England to Fla?  How about the Erie Canal, the nicest fresh water cruise on the planet?  How about the Mighty Mississipp? Good Luck. Jim Md.

Response:

You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be taken offshore.  I might try it if I was a Haitian boat person; but fortunately, I’m not. If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket.

There are houseboats in the Virgin Islands and I’m sure they weren’t built there. — J.A. Rogers Sailaway Cruising Club http://www.cqws.com/zone1/sailaway/

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ed: I’m in the process of rebuilding, from the hull up, a 60ft houseboat with the ultimate purpose of curising to the Bahamas from the closest point in Florida when I retire in six years. I’ve talked to a couple of people who say this is possible, if I pick the right time of year and watch the weather carefully. The boat is 60×14 with 22" of freeboard and a 42" draft. She has twin 228HP MercCruser outdrives and a fuel capacity of 175 Gals. Cruise speed at 1500RPM is about 8 knots with 21 knots at full speed. I plan to install Radar and GPS before the trip. Am I crazy or do you think this is possible ? What would you recommend ?

There was a rig which moored in Daytona Beach for a while.  On a small river barge type hull was a white frame building with a sign "Marine Research Laboratory" (It allowed anchoring in places where people might otherwise object.)  Around the perimeter of the barge were trailer hitch balls.  The owner supposedly took it to the Bahamas using a "tug" consisting of an open runabout with a large outboard.  He had a short tower frame on the tug with another trailer hitch ball and an A-frame with three female hitchs on the corners.  By repositioning the frame he could pull, push, or run along side.  He did spend some time waiting for just the right weather conditions. I think your houseboat is several cuts above this in surviveability, but yes, the word crazy does come to mind.  Crazy is fine as long as you don’t expect someone else to bail you out. Roger —

Response:

You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be taken offshore.  I might try it if I was a Haitian boat person; but fortunately, I’m not. If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket. There are houseboats in the Virgin Islands and I’m sure they weren’t built there.

I second that!  A houseboat on the Gulf Stream is courting suicide, and there ARE some deep water passages to be made within the archipelago. Don’t do it, especially as a novice. Go, but with a good keel and skeg beneath you.

Response:

You’re pushing the envelope friend.  In no case should a houseboat be taken offshore.  I might try it if I was a Haitian boat person; but fortunately, I’m not. If you want to go to the Bahamas, buy an airline ticket. There are houseboats in the Virgin Islands and I’m sure they weren’t built there. — J.A. Rogers Sailaway Cruising Club http://www.cqws.com/zone1/sailaway/

There might be places that you could go through once you are there.  I think a lot of large freight (cars etc) go by local freighters.  That approach should get your boat there. I crossed the Gulf stream with a perfect forcast.  By the time I was 2 hours out, I was seeing the worst continuous conditions that I had ever seen in 30 years of sailing. We are all masters of our vessels despite what anyone says.  I would give this all little thought though. Hans Paabor Rocinante I Scarborough, Ontario With great power comes great responsiblity (Spiderman)

Response:

I mentally swapped the critical specs of your houseboat and was thinking it draws 22” and has 42” of freeboard when I wrote advising you to Go For It! Considering you have almost no spare freeboard and are a bit deeper than I believed, I should qualify my answer: You probably should not go in winter, when the weather is quite changeable (and the forecasts are therefore less reliable). Keeping in mind that safe anchorages may sometimes be 30-40 miles (i.e.four-six hours) apart, if the wind springs up suddenly the resulting sea might be too much for your boat. The Banks can develop a very steep chop. I don’t know how well houseboats drive into head seas but I suspect, not too well. You should find out first-hand before going. Dead calm conditions are, I’m told,  common in late spring and summer (save for the odd hurricane, but that’s another story).  At any rate, take a liferaft or Whaler type dinghy and a handheld VHF. And, of course, insure the vessel. Byron

Response:

If anyone is contemplating cruising in Bahamas, I may be able to help. While I have not been to each cay, I have cruised throughout the island nation, from Walker’s Cay on the north to Long Island in the southern region. This year I am going south thru southernmost Bahamas to Turks & Caicos, despite news of major drug running and politicians’ alleged

Response:

Ed: I’m in the process of rebuilding, from the hull up, a 60ft houseboat with the ultimate purpose of curising to the Bahamas from the closest point in Florida when I retire in six years. I’ve talked to a couple of people who say this is possible, if I pick the right time of year and watch the weather carefully. The boat is 60×14 with 22" of freeboard and a 42" draft. She has twin 228HP MercCruser outdrives and a fuel capacity of 175 Gals. Cruise speed at 1500RPM is about 8 knots with 21 knots at full speed. I plan to install Radar and GPS before the trip. Am I crazy or do you think this is possible ? What would you recommend ? Thanks Ron Brown

Response:

If anyone is contemplating cruising in Bahamas, I may be able to help. region. This year I am going south thru southernmost Bahamas to Turks & Caicos, despite news of major drug running and politicians’ alleged

In 16 years cruising in the Bahamas, drug running and politicians have been the least of my worries or problems.  They are simply not an issue for the average cruiser, and there are fewer drugs to encounter in the islands than on your average midtown street corner back in the states. Just returned from a fast passage from Ft. Lauderdale to Provo, (T&C), and the only problems encountered were related to the vessel, rather than politics or recreational pharmacy products. Good Sailing, 73,  Sean — Sean Holland NP2AU S/V Spindrift

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Go for it! Weather is key but the crossing from Miami to Gun Cay or Bimini should only take you a few hours (it’s 50nm or thereabouts). You will want to cross during a period of winds <12kts out of a southerly quadrant. You should experience chop no more than a foot or two over an easy swell. We spent a winter cruising the Bahamas in a 36′ sailboat. So long as you pick your weather carefully and hole up in one of the many protected anchorages during frontal passages, you should have no problem. Additionally, your shoal draft will open up many anchorages denied sailboats. So you should be able to avoid any unpleasantness. I would urge you to buy a short-wave receiver like the Grundig Yacht Boy 400 to get USCG weathercasts on NMN and to tune into the Bahamas marine net, as well as the big picture weather outlook from "Herb" on 12.359 at 2000 UCT. You may have to be very patient to get favorable conditions for operating in the NW Providence Channel; if it’s wintertime, you probably don’t want to operate in the northern half of the Bahamas (Abacos) as they get some very nasty weather indeed. Good luck! Byron Westerly ketch "Vela"

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Question:

I have a small pond I can fish that is full of 2lb. Channel Cats. The depth runs from 2 to 10 feet. How should I go about catching them on a fly. I would be most thankful for any suggestions.

Small streamers or wooly buggers will work – as the previous responses suggested, but the most consistent channel cat "fly" for me has been a 1/64 oz. mini-jig. Try white marabou or tensile.   —

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Try chicken livers.  Just wear a splatter guard and watch the backcast’s near other people in the area…. Seriously though,  catfish rely on scent but I have caught many while fishing for bass  with big crankbaits.  This summer I am going to try dunking a couple of homemade flies into chicken liver guts in area that I have caught catfish before.  We will see what happens!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a small pond I can fish that is full of 2lb. Channel Cats. The depth runs from 2 to 10 feet. How should I go about catching them on a fly. I would be most thankful for any suggestions. Small streamers or wooly buggers will work – as the previous responses suggested, but the most consistent channel cat "fly" for me has been a 1/64 oz. mini-jig. Try white marabou or tensile.   —

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I’ve done well on chrome-eyed matukas (the eyes for weight), especially in the late spring with they hunt the shallows.  They can bruise you…

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My brother and I were out fishing for Largemouths with wooly buggers (BLACK) and he put down a 10lb. channel cat.  He played the damned thing for 35 minutes before he released him. —-just a suggestion JW KRAMEROn Wed, 26 Feb – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a small pond I can fish that is full of 2lb. Channel Cats. The depth runs from 2 to 10 feet. How should I go about catching them on a fly. I would be most thankful for any suggestions. Thank you, Shawn Anything that looks like a baitfish should work. When I lived in Kansas I would occasionally catch them on streamers and decievers. Charlie…

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@   "I never dared be radical when young    For fear it would make me conservative when old."–Robert Frost  "…we can build an America as big as our dreams…"–Bob Dole       @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@

Response:

I have a small pond I can fish that is full of 2lb. Channel Cats. The depth runs from 2 to 10 feet. How should I go about catching them on a fly. I would be most thankful for any suggestions. Thank you, Shawn

Response:

I have a small pond I can fish that is full of 2lb. Channel Cats. The depth runs from 2 to 10 feet. How should I go about catching them on a fly. I would be most thankful for any suggestions. Thank you, Shawn

Anything that looks like a baitfish should work. When I lived in Kansas I would occasionally catch them on streamers and decievers. Charlie…

Response:

Question:

I have been tying flys for a couple of years and reciently decided to get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? Their necks cost about $20 less than the Metz. Are the Metz micro-barb saddles any good? Will I get e decient selection of 14-16 hackle. I don’t plan on tying anything smaller than a 20, for now. Also, I am married so that makes it kind of hard to justify 70 dollars for "a bunch of feathers".0     Thanx,         Pat

Response:

I would strongly consider that you check out Hoffmann’s super saddles in grade 2 or 3. I just sized all of the feathers on a Grade two and they range from 12 up to 18 with a concentration in the 14-16 size. The feathers are incredible, you can tie 5-6 flies with one feather! You can tie hundreds of dozens of flies with one of these saddles. If you figure it on a flies/money basis this is a good deal. If you E-mail Dennis out of each Hoffmann super saddle, and what sizes. You really only need a neck if you are going to tie a lot of very small dries.

Response:

I have been tying flys for a couple of years and reciently decided to get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? Their necks cost about $20 less than the Metz. Are the Metz micro-barb saddles any good? Will I get e decient selection of 14-16 hackle. I don’t plan on tying anything smaller than a 20, for now. Also, I am married so that makes it kind of hard to justify 70 dollars for "a bunch of feathers".0     Thanx,         Pat

Hi Pat Yes those darned feathers cost a bunch but think about Hoffman saddles. You can buy a 1/2 saddle for $18.00 and tie a heck of a lot of flies. If you are interestd I sell them OR check out you local fly shop. Hoffman saddles usually have a feather size range from #12 – #18 with most feathers in the size most tiers use, #14 & #16. My wife and I make a major portion of our living tying flies and we use Hoffman saddles almost exclusively. They are really great. I do carry some other alternatives in my stock, just email for further details or a catalog. You can keep the cost of hackle down also by purchasing with a friend and dividing the neck or saddle — just an idea. Good tying & … — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

I have been tying flys for a couple of years and reciently decided to get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? Their necks cost about $20 less than the Metz. Are the Metz micro-barb saddles any good? Will I get e decient selection of 14-16 hackle. I don’t plan on tying anything smaller than a 20, for now. Also, I am married so that makes it kind of hard to justify 70 dollars for "a bunch of feathers".0     Thanx,         Pat

Spencers are quite good, I have several.  I really like their hen necks as well. I think the best approach is to go for Hoffman saddles. The Metz saddles don’t go as small in range as the Hoffmans.  Splitting a number 2 saddle with a buddy will get you outfitted for a long time.  Go to the store – do not do this mail order, and use your hackle sizer to check out the various saddles.  They will run all of a size on each saddle, make sure you get one that is right for what you want to use it for.  Then you are fixed for that fly for years.

Response:

 I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? T

Patrick; The best (most economical and best feathers) way to do this is to get Hoffman Grade #3 necks.  The feathers are the same, but the density is less.  I bought a Hoffman saddle and should have bought a neck.  Saddles are great if you are tying a lot of 12-16 flies.  I needed 16-18. Saddles are superior hackle, but the size is limited. JB

Response:

I always get #1…1.  There is a difference, and 2.  One of my ff buddies came over to the house, flipped the neck over and saw the #2 stamp and called me girlyman for being a tightwad.

for a couple of years and reciently decided to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1?

Response:

get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? Their necks cost about $20 less than the Metz. Are the Metz micro-barb saddles any good? Will I get e decient selection of 14-16 hackle. I don’t plan on tying anything smaller than a 20, for now. Also, I am married so that makes it kind of hard to justify 70 dollars for "a bunch of feathers".0     Thanx,         Pat /

Years ago, in the 60s and 70s, we got our chicken hackle from India and China. We graded them in AAAA, AAA, AA, A, B and C, if I remember right. We would buy them by the hundred and would grade them ourselves. Hal Janssen, a northern California fly fishing and tying expert, once showed me how to grade them. He first put them into stacks by color. Then you would check the stiffness by bending a hackle and putting it up against his upper lip. Then he would check for the size range. This was the big killer as many of them would not have a feather smaller than a #12. This was not so bad years ago as the fish were more plentiful and would eat a #12. We would look for feathers that had some length to them so you didn’t have to tie on 3 to 5 hackle to get enough turns to make a good fly.  We would have many different colors. White, creme, ginger, red game(brown) and coachman brown(very dark) along with combos like badger, flame, cree, cocubony(sp) and grizzly. We would die creme necks to a blue dun. My friend, Bob Quigley, could really get some good looking blue dun and light olive die jobs. I would die saddles hot orange for steelhead hackle as we could not get any. I say that today we are all spoiled with the genetic necks from Hoffman and Metz. Years ago, if you had a neck that looked like a #3 Metz you wouldn’t tie with it. You would just pull it out and show it off to your friends. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

I have been tying flys for a couple of years and reciently decided to get in to dry flys. I started pricing the various necks, ouch! My question is, is it really that big of a deal to use grade 2 necks over grade 1? Also, are Spencer necks any good? Their necks cost about $20 less than the Metz. Are the Metz micro-barb saddles any good? Will I get e decient selection of 14-16 hackle. I don’t plan on tying anything smaller than a 20, for now. Also, I am married so that makes it kind of hard to justify 70 dollars for "a bunch of feathers".0     Thanx,         Pat

Hi Pat, Usually the biggest difference between #1 and #2 necks is the amount of small sizes of hackle.  Unless you are going to tie a lot of #22 – #26 flies, the #2 is all you need and may actually be preferable to the #1.  I have an old  #1 Metz brown cape that I can’t use for size 10 or 12 flies because the stems are too thick to wind well in those sizes. The Hoffman saddle split between friends (as suggested by Al Beatty) is a great idea presuming you can find them.  I have a #3 Hoffman grizzly saddle (looks as good as most #2’s Ive seen since) that has primarily #16 & #18 feathers that are 7" to 9" long.  They are a fly tiers dream as that is the size of most of the dry flies that I tie.  Be warned however that the Hoffman saddles usually have 2 sizes in abundance and other sizes are scarce by comparison.  They are there, but not nearly in the numbers as the 2 primary sizes.  These primary sizes vary from saddle to saddle so be sure to check them out so you get the sizes you use most often. The normal Metz saddles are *not* in this league.  Their feathers are long but more commonly run in 8’s and 6’s with a few 10’s and 12’s if you’re lucky.  I haven’t seen their "micro barb" saddles yet. If you can’t check them out yourself, order them from Al or someone that you have confidence will give you what you request and take it back if it is not satisfactory.  Be sure to specify the preferred sizes you want to use it for.                                   Good Luck,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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I always get #1…1.  There is a difference, and 2.  One of my ff buddies came over to the house, flipped the neck over and saw the #2 stamp and called me girlyman for being a tightwad.

GET A NEW FRIEND! Sounds like a guy that buys everything based on brand and price, not on need and functionality. Most commercial tyers or moderately high-volume tyers buy #3 and #2 saddles and capes unless they’re looking for a large volume of SMALL hackles (and by small, I mean size 24-28 stuff!!) By going to a well stocked shop and selecting your own hackle, you’ll find that many of Hoffman’s graders will downgrade a cape/saddle due to broken tips and "less than even" coloring across a cape/saddle.  Personally, when I can get 6 or 7 flies out of one saddle, I don’t get too bent about the tips being broken!!  As for the less than even color, well…hao many times do you think a fly is refused because the dun is medium instead of light on one turn of the hackle??   If your fish refuse flies like this, send em to your pal that says you’re a wuss for buying #2s!!  Bet he’s got a teal vest and uses a rod with a dampening action in the handle! I’ve tyed flies for over 30 years, and over the past 15 years I’ve bought ONE #1 cape…a grizzly that I still have.  I’ve purchased an average of 6 capes and saddles per year since then, mostly Hoffmans, mostly #3s and some #2s. Larry #:)#

Response:

Question:

writes: :   Hi I am looking for some information on fly fishing. I : want to know about how much it would cost me to get started. Also : I would like to know any other info to help me gewt started. : Many thanks : Robert

Well Robert, I began fly fishing on a rod made by my friends dad, it was a 7 12 four weight…..a month later I got a L.L. Bean 8 foot 5 weight for 295.00 that includes the reel…..its a great rod and I consider it a very good price for the fun and fish i’ve gotton from it so far…..THey will send you a catalog if you call…..they also have fly kits that will start you out for about 25 dollars……good luck…. Matt, age 16

Response:

   Hi I am looking for some information on fly fishing. I want to know about how much it would cost me to get started. Also I would like to know any other info to help me gewt started. Many thanks Robert

Bob: From another Bob.  Find yourself a sports shop that at least carries flyfishing equipment.  Buy a "discovery" or "introductory" outfit that includes an 8′ to 9′ rod in a 5 or 6 weight.  See if your local adult education organization (or the shop you bought the outfit from) has any beginner flyfishing/casting classes, and go do it.   The outfit shouldn’t cost you much more than $100 to $150. Another good way to try it out is to find a FLYFISHING guide in your area and hire him/her for a day.  A little more expensive, but they can probably provide the equipment, give you some great instruction, and you would probably even catch some fish. Finally, a couple more sources to try are Fly Rod and Reel, American Angler, and Flyfishing magazines.  Also, you may already know about this, but you might want to post your inquiry on the newsgroup rec.outdoors.fishing.fly. Have fun, it’s a great sport. Bob Peters

Response:

        Hi I am looking for some information on fly fishing. I want to know about how much it would cost me to get started. Also I would like to know any other info to help me gewt started. Many thanks Robert

Response:

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saltwater,alt.fishing Organization: via CompuServe Information Service Lines: 9 Xref: internex.net rec.outdoors.fishing:12220

rec.outdoors.fishing.fly:13627 rec.outdoors.fishing.saltwater:4273 alt.fishing:11732 Try http://www.aminews.com/ami

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Path: internex.net!news.sprintlink.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1 uu.net!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com! news Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing,rec.outdoors.fishing.fly,rec.outdoors.fishing. saltwater,alt.fishing Organization: via CompuServe Information Service Lines: 9 Xref: internex.net rec.outdoors.fishing:12220 rec.outdoors.fishing.fly:13627 rec.outdoors.fishing.saltwater:4273 alt.fishing:11732

   Hi, I operate a small Fly Shop here in Maine and would be happy    to help you out.  For info or tackle call 1-800-244-7744 ANYTIME – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try http://www.aminews.com/ami

Response:

:       Hi I am looking for some information on fly fishing. I : want to know about how much it would cost me to get started. Also : I would like to know any other info to help me gewt started. : Many thanks : Robert Don’t do what I did, and buy the $29.95 Fly-Fishing starter-kit from Shakespeare! What a mistake. I have yet to get a fly on/in the water with this set-up… The fly-line included with the kit was made in China and was wrapped up with a VERY gummy/sticky label. Even after cleaning at the line for an hour it was still gummy and wouldn’t slide through the guides, so I shopped around for some replacement line. $15 dollars (and much confusion about which type line to buy) later, I had that, but still couldn’t get the thing to cast at all, so it’s collecting dust in a corner of the basement. I did manage to succesfully do some flyfishing this past week though, for the first time in my life. I bought some clear bobbers, and used them with about 4 feet of 6lb leader and a fly on my spinning rod. I caught a bucket full of large bluegills, crappie, and bass. Some of the fish were hitting on the bobber, so maybe I should adapt a hook onto it for next time… Anyone else do the majority of their fishing from a seakayak? Cecil Williams

Response:

Question:

Quoting lauraoli from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    If  anyone has sources for    materials at good prices I would be interested in that as well.  Thank    you in advance! Try     Anglers Workshop         P.O. Box 1044         1350 Atlantic         Woodland, Wa. 1044         1-206-225-9445         1-206-225-6359 Jim in Southern California `[1;30;47mRainbow V 1.06 for Delphi – Registered

Response:

I have built two rods.  I bought the cork handle, reel seat, and guides from Angler’s Workshop in Woodland, WA., for the last rod and beleive I got a very good deal from them.  I bought my epoxy glue for the handle, thread and wrapping finish from them.  They have been very helpful.  For books, I have Skip Morris’s and L.A. Garcia’s.  I like both, but if I only had one I would use Skip’s.  They may be in your library.  For tools,  I bought a reamer for the cork handle.  The wrapping finish kit had syringes for measuring and brushes for applying.  I make my own rod support and used a book to develop the trhead tension like Morris explained in his book.  I bought a pen tip and ink as he suggested for the inscription at a stationary store.  Masking tape, tip top adhesive,   and some fine sandpaper and that is about it.  I would get Morris’s book and work with Angler’s Workshop.  I do not think they will try to sell you what you do not need.  Call them at 206-225-9445 and they will send you a catalog.  Both rods have come out nice.  One is a Sage 9′ 6 wt, and the other is a St. Croix 8′6" 5/6 wt pack rod.

Response:

Summary: Keywords: Hello, I am attemping to build my first rod.  I have sent off for a book on building rods, but I am interested in information from some people that  have actually tied your own rod.  What materials and equipment will I just HAVE to have?  I have my blank already.  But I would like a few tips on things to watch for and supplies I need and those I might can do   with out. Also, If  anyone has sources for materials at good prices I would be interested in that as well.  Thank you in advance! Fish whenever you can and dream about it when you can’t! Thanks again, Kelli B. c/o RLaura Oliveri

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