Question:

Oh my heart is won, there is no doubt, but I would be a most unworthy lout, were I to dally, with a gentle lady gay, quite apart from what my wife would say! So be it then, friendship

Question:

Anyone who know about a really good book about Clasic Salmonflies? Ole A Andreassen http://www.flyfishing-illustrated.com

Response:

If you really want the classic book Try Geoge M. Kelson "The salmon fly" Dr T.E. Pryce, Tannatt "How to dress salmon flies Francis Francis "Book on angling" J.H. Hale "how to tie salmon flies William Blacker "The art of fly making" If you want more recent books on classic fly try Radencich Mikael Frodin Joseph Bates Ken Sawada Judith Dunham Paul Schmookler Poul Jorgensen Hope this help! Robert Mayrand – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Nextra Public Access Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Anyone who know about a really good book about Clasic Salmonflies? Ole A Andreassen http://www.flyfishing-illustrated.com

Response:

Question:

Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Ha Paul, I want my money back. I bought a new outfit and went out and got skunked. I am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Response:

got skunked. I – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Love you Bill!!!!! You probably have more experience with both guides and lawyers, but I find it easies to find a competeant guide than it is a competeant lawyer. Care to comment? Big Dale

Response:

LL Bean still has their warranty policy in place… Lifetime satisfaction guarantee If you break the rod on a trip, they’ll overnight fedex a replacement anwhere in the country.  You return the broken rod at your convenience. All free. Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Response:

You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault.  I remember that I took care of my rod, because if I broke it, I was  out X number of dollars.  I remember a time when you were responsible for your actions.  I remember when I didn’t do well in school, it was my fault, not society.  I remember breaking my arm in junior high school and not suing the school.  I remember a time when if you broke something, you stood up like a man and admitted it…. It’s amazing how rods are now "accidently" broken as opposed to how many were broken BEFORE the new warranties. Just my 2 cents. Flyguy Bill Kiene wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Ha Paul, I want my money back. I bought a new outfit and went out and got skunked. I am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Response:

You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault

Geez, let’s not have too much pity for the poor manufacturers… The fly rod that you and I pay $650 for in the store, probably costs the manufacturer $50 in direct materials and labor.  And it makes the vendor probably 3x to 4x the profit per rod as a $200 rod. Some people probably won’t buy a super-premium rod because they’re afraid they’ll break it.  So by offering a no-fault warranty, the manufacturers get more folks to buy the highly profitable rods.  Really, it makes a lot of sense given the disparity between direct and retail costs. Especially now that the rod vendors are charging for warranty repairs (and offsetting most of the cost anyway), they’re laughing all the way to the bank. Michael

Response:

You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault Geez, let’s not have too much pity for the poor manufacturers… The fly rod that you and I pay $650 for in the store, probably costs the manufacturer $50 in direct materials and labor.  And it makes the vendor probably 3x to 4x the profit per rod as a $200 rod.

that very possibly true – check out George Gherke’s costing for his Bastard Rod – the fitting alone exceed $50. but, don’t forget it the manufacturer has to pay for a lot of other things beside direct material and labour. Anyone whose worked in a manufacturing environment can tell you overheads are very often more than direct manufacturing costs. Don’t forget as well that everyone along the way – the manufacturer, the distributor and the retailer all have to make some sort of profit. For most products of this nature the mark up on the rod( the difference between the retail price and the wholessale price the retailer pays) is about 1/3 of the price you pay. So for a $650 rod the manufacturer may gets $425 in revenue. Ralph H

Response:

but, don’t forget it the manufacturer has to pay for a lot of other things beside direct material and labour. Anyone whose worked in a manufacturing environment can tell you overheads are very often more than direct manufacturing costs. Don’t forget as well that everyone along the way – the manufacturer, the distributor and the retailer all have to make some sort of profit.

Absolutely true, but it’s also my point. You can make the argument that it’s reasonable for a fly mfg. to charge $650 for a rod.  (Hey, no one’s forcing me to buy the damn thing, and the market also supplies pretty good rods at every price point from $19 up).  Lord knows, a lot of vendors with fancy names and fancy rods are only marginally profitable.  But the time to make the profit is on the initial sale and, hopefully,  the next sale a few years later from a satisfied customer upgrading to the same vendor’s latest and greatest. Repairs are a time when the vendor can make or break customer loyalty.  It’s simply not worth getting into a debate with the customer about who’s fault it was.  <<Was the ferrule defective, or had it loosened up on me while fishing?  Is it the fault of the vendor’s poor tolerances that the rod loosened up and then broke at the ferrule, or my sloppy fishing habits, for not checking them every once in a while?  It just makes good sense for the manufacturer to fix a rod at it’s marginal cost, and not mark it up.  Even if it truly is the customer’s fault.  Hey, we all make mistakes. Then you can argue whether, if the marginal cost is so low (say $20 for a section of a $600 rod), does it make sense to bill for it, or do you get even more than $20 worth of loyalty and repeat business to do it for "free". I don’t see this as a biggee…it’s close enough to $0 that I wouldn’t care if I felt it were my fault.  Of course, if it were truly a mfg. flaw, I’d be pissed off about paying even $20, much less $50. Michael

Response:

Question:

I am selling an old bamboo fly rod, which was most likely made in occupied Japan.  I bought it about 8 months ago or so, and have fished with it 3 times since.  The rod is 9′ and 3 pieces with an extra tip.  I would refer to the rod’s condition as very good; fishable if you have alot of arm strength. I am no bamboo expert, so here are a few more details; all wraps intact, both tips same length, all ferrules seat well, varnish discolored but intact, rod passes the "twist test" without producing any cracking sounds, grip dirty, but intact.  Both tips have some set, one is worse than the other. The rod has one decal on it, it is red and reads "Water Riffle". As people told me, the rod is very heavy compared to modern bamboo, and wears the arm out after twenty minutes of casting.  I considered refinishing it and turning it into a 6′ banty, but have decided instead to part with it in order to buy a new reel for the three weight I am building.  My wife has severely degraded my fly fishing gear budget, as I went overboard last year. I don’t want the new rod to go without a reel, so this rod is the first thing to sacrifice.. I have a few .jpg pictures I can send as attachments privately to anyone interested in the rod. I can also privately mail you my asking price if you message me privately.  I will not post asking price or the pictures to the group, so if you are interested, mail me at one of the addresses listed below please. — Matt Blickensderfer * A Grouchy German is a Sour Kraut! *

Response:

I am selling an old bamboo fly rod, which was most likely made in occupied Japan.  I bought it about 8 months ago or so, and have fished with it 3 times since.  The rod is 9′ and 3 pieces with an extra tip.  I would refer to the rod’s condition as very good; fishable if you have alot of arm strength. . . I will not post asking price or the pictures to the group, so if you are interested, mail me at one of the addresses listed

MB should be advised this sounds like the bamboo rods mass-produced in Japan for the US market approx. 1970 which sold for about $25. (They were good value overall.  Two out of three were junk, but one in three fished very nicely.  I could show you to within 6 inches where I caught my first trout on a fly on such an outfit….) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Question:

Currently seeking flyfishing photos and stories for publication and CD Rom Database, and for use in Calanders. Some selection will be used for pen and ink drawings. Paying $5.00 to $500.00 For guidelines and terms send $1.00 P&H to Down-n-The Holler Press 207 W. Sugarloaf Heber Springs, Ar. 72543

Response:

Currently seeking flyfishing photos and stories for publication and CD Rom Database, and for use in Calanders. Some selection will be used for pen and ink drawings. Paying $5.00 to $500.00 For guidelines and terms send $1.00 P&H to Down-n-The Holler Press 207 W. Sugarloaf Heber Springs, Ar. 72543

You expect me to send you a dollar for your guidelines? Not too much chance of that happening. I can understand the need to cover expenses if snail mail was the only way, but what’s wrong with e-mail? If you send ME a dollar I will send you a copy of my terms and conditions for use of my photographs!:-) — Mike Robinson

Response:

Currently seeking flyfishing photos and stories for publication and CD Rom Database, and for use in Calanders. Some selection will be used for pen and ink drawings. Paying $5.00 to $500.00 For guidelines and terms send $1.00 P&H to Down-n-The Holler Press 207 W. Sugarloaf Heber Springs, Ar. 72543

The last time I heard of an offer like this was when someone called me to tell me I’d just won a "fabulous prize".  All I had to do to claim said prize was to give him my credit card number.  <click!  End of conversation. If you’re guaranteeing payment of a minimum of $5.00 for each submission received I’ll be happy to pay you a buck for your guidelines and terms, *plus* I can guarantee a whole flood of stuff will soon arrive upon your doorstep.  If you’ll just guarantee *that* in writing my dollar bill will soon be winging its way to you.  :-) However, since I doubt you’re guaranteeing payment for any and all submissions I think that asking people to pay for your editorial guidelines and payment rate schedule is unlikely to produce much in the way of useful material.  In my dealings with publishers I’ve never had anyone ask for payment for their guidelines.  Perhaps you should reexamine your policy. — Bob Jarvis Mail addresses hacked to foil automailers! Remove ‘_spamless’ from reply address

Response:

what a crock!!!

Response:

Question:

I’ll be in Ashville, NC in mid-October and was looking for some info about fly fishing there.  I am an experienced saltwater angler but this would be my first attempt at fly fishing for trout.  Thanks, Mike Lang Sarasota, FL

Response:

Hunter-Banks is the place in Ashville N.C. they can set you up with everything and give you all the info you will need. Have a good time. Presg

Response:

F I’ll be in Ashville, NC in mid-October and was looking for some info about F fly fishing there.  I am an experienced saltwater angler but this would be Well, 2 of my favorite places to fish near Ashville are Wilson Creek near Elkmont N.C. and in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park. In the park I fish all over but enjoy Abrahms Creek because of its beauty, fertility, and the rose stripe on those beautiful rainbows! I will be in the Smokies next weekend!      I am sure there are some great streams nearer to Ashville, but the Ocanaluftee in the park should be less than 3 hours, maybe much less away and Elkmont is about 1.5 hours away.      Trey

Response:

Question:

In a couple of weeks I’m going to British Columbia (Chilko Lake/Tsy-los park). One of the fishing opportunities there is fishing on a mountain lake for Dolly Varden. I’ve been told to bring a sinking line. I have never used a sinking line and find there are a wide variety of brands and sink rates available. Can anyone advise me on which line type would be the best for this setting? Thanks! Steve Rosenblum

Response:

In a couple of weeks I’m going to British Columbia (Chilko Lake/Tsy-los park). One of the fishing opportunities there is fishing on a mountain lake for Dolly Varden. I’ve been told to bring a sinking line. I have never used a sinking line and find there are a wide variety of brands and sink rates available. Can anyone advise me on which line type would be the best for this setting? Thanks! Steve Rosenblum

Hi Steve! Depends on the depth–and this is no wisecrack answer.  A lot of my lake fishing is done in water less than 8 feet deep and I like to fish out a cast.  So, my favorite lake sinking line is a slow sink (I think scientific Anglers calls it an imtermediate line.I can use this line because I generally dont fish deep lakes when the water is warm and the fish less active.  If you fish deeper you need a line with a faster sink rate.  The make a bunch of them. If I were guessing, I would go for a wet cel II line–it will get down relatively fast, but dont plan on fishing 30 feet down with it!! Also, I prefer full sinking lines for lake fishing–personal preference, but I fish slow and deep and sinking tip lines tend to drag with the wind across the top of the water. Best Luck!! Paul

Response:

In a couple of weeks I’m going to British Columbia (Chilko Lake/Tsy-los park). One of the fishing opportunities there is fishing on a mountain lake for Dolly Varden. I’ve been told to bring a sinking line. I have never used a sinking line and find there are a wide variety of brands and sink rates available. Can anyone advise me on which line type would be the best for this setting?

Hi Steve, I like to use a type II sinking line for fishing around 10 ft. deep, a type III for 10 to 15 and a type V (don’t do this often) for 20+ ft. of depth.  Of course, I am kind of impatient and I hate long countdowns to get to the fish.   Keep in mind that the speed of the retrieve you use will also have an effect on how deep your fly actually swims.   A quickly retrieved type III will often fish at the same depth as a slow to medium retrieve on a type II.  See if you can find out the depth that you will most often be fishing at this lake (not the depth of the lake, but rather the depth you will fish), and make your choice from there.                           Good Fishing,                               Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Question:

A couple of years ago a group of us fished Boca Grande and we used a variety of guides.  By far the best one was Chris Klingel – I still have his card and the number is (813) 964-2165.  Last year I saw him on one of the flyfishing shows as the guide so he’s probably well sought after. Enjoy, it’s great fishing. David  

Response:

Question:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Response:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Hiya Justin! I have been experiencing the same problems with blown out streams in Colorado until very recently. Upon realizing that any stream attempt was going to be a disaster, I begrudgingly decided to try my hand at some small lakes. Traditionally, I am the worlds WORST lake fisherman with a fly. I usually cannot catch ANYTHING, but I figured that this option was better than drowning in a swollen river. On a whim, I decided to try fishing the lake at the bottom of St. Mary’s Glacier on Saturday. The fishing was SO much fun that I took Monday off from work to do it again. That lake literally boils with rising brookies. Most of the fish are small (5-8 inches), but they aren’t very picky and it is one of the most beautiful spots around. Fishing there was a great confidence booster for me and while the fish weren’t big, they did end the frustration I have been having with my recent river trips. If you haven’t been there before, just take I-70 slightly past Idaho Springs to Fall River Road (Exit 238). Take fall river road up for quite a ways (You will go over spots of unpaved road) and eventually there is a small parking area on the right and wide rubble trail on the left. Hike up the trail on the left about 3/4 mile. Tie on just about anything and have fun. I caught a bunch on a #18 Blue Wing Olive, but I even took a few on a #12 Adams. Be prepared for funky weather. I got snowed on on Saturday and rained on on Moday. Tight Lines, Chad McArthur

Response:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Decided to combat near terminal cabin fever and trucked up to S. but sure no crowds.  Caught three in three hours, including the nicest brown on that stretch in two years -18-19".  Wasn’t a lot of fun, tho, with insane tangles trying to cast three 3/0 split shots over top of willows behind.  Can’t wade out more than 3-4′, but fish are to be found close in if you can find some fairly slow water.  Took them all on big bright red worm.  Think Dick at Flies and Lies in Decker called it a "traditional ol’ English-tied worm".  You gotta be near spiritual about this sport to find these conditions a kick!!

Response:

The rivers have been less then ideal.  For myself, I have turned to one of my second favorite activities.  Fly fishing for Bluegill.  Here in the Grand Junction area we have a couple of places that are producing ‘gills to 9 inches plus.  On a four wt. they are a blast.  My E-Mail is I don’t mind company, I just value good fish too much to want to see the meat hunters showing up.

Response:

I’ll be coming out that way in August to visit my brother at CU.  I’ve been to S. Platte and Buffalo (man that place was really crowded), and Cloudland Canyon last spring but am really looking for something a little less crowded (and less touristy).  Need help in Atlanta, Jeff

Response:

Jeff, Since you will be in Boulder you could try the Cache La Poudre. It’s west of Ft. Collins. It has some prime water sites. Other places include the Frying Pan river near Basalt, CO and the Colorado river near

Response:

Question:

If you are talking about regular woven bodies?  You tie your two flosses in at the bend in the hook and simple tie a series of single over hand knots.  Always tie in the same pattern left over right or right over left and you will wind up with light on top or bottom.  Pick the pattern you want and go with it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis patterns? I saw some in a shop the other day for sales. Deadly looking bugs, but 6 – 8 flys at $24 – ouch! I was told that his pattern was recently provided in an magazine published in the U.K. I unfortunately can’t identify the publication. There was an article in a recent issue (either Dec. or Jan.) of Flyfisherman that described a technique for making woven bodied nymphs using two different colors of floss.  The article described some nymphs using a light and dark shade of heavy brown floss.  I had some olive and yellow floss so I tried a few.  I ended up creating some really nice looking green rockworm nymphs The process for creating the body is fairly time consuming when compared to a dubbed body so I assume that has something to do with cost.   I’m not sure if this was actually for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis but the instructions had a "key" step for starting the weave at the beginning that is supposed to make it easier.  Unfortunately the text had a typo in it.  It had you start with one color of floss in your left hand.  Then is said to put the other color in you left hand and I’m sure that one of those "lefts" was suppose to be a "right" but it was unclear how to figure it out from the rest of the text. — John Fereira "Guru of Miscellany" Pleasanton, CA "Ask me about my vow of silence."

Response:

<Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis patterns? Davy is going to be at the Midwest Fly Show Jan 6,7, and 8th in Westmont, IL 400 E. Ogden Ave.  He will be tying all three days and I am sure he will be more than happy to answer any questions you have in regards to the Polish Woven Nymph.  He did not originate this pattern but he ties them as well or better than the original.  If you want more info on the Midest Fly Show call me @ 1-800-328-9753 or E mail.                                                           Marcos

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven : Caddis patterns? I saw some in a shop the other day for sales. Deadly : looking bugs, but 6 – 8 flys at $24 – ouch! I was told that his pattern : was recently provided in an magazine published in the U.K. I : unfortunately can’t identify the publication. : Any and all help would be appreciated. Well B, it was the Sept/Oct 94 issue of Fly-Fishing and Fly-TYing. They certainly look good and aren’t that difficult to tie once you’ve done a few. The description is quite lengthy but if you can find anything on a SHUTTLE weave it should get you started. Some points I’ve noticed while fiddling with them:    - a correctly proportioned, smoothly tapered underbody is req’d    - you need a widish gape hook.    - surprisingly little lead is req’d – smoothish body sinks well.    - rayon flosses are slippery to use but can be managed    - wool is good    - Don’t neglect peacock herl    - use wool on size 6 hooks to practice    - leave materials in on the spool (don’t cut off lengths) it helps      with handling and tensioning. OB PATTERN    Wet beatle/nymph –    hook: Kamasan B175 Heavy traditional – size 10/12 mash barb.    thread: black    rib: fine copper wire with red tinge.    underbody: fine lead wire to suit application, build up nicely    tapered UB with thread AFTER tying in flosses,herls rib.    Body: woven – 3 peacock herl strands in rope with thread on top    the bottom being an orange floss heavy.    Head: BIG – BLACK and lacquered.    TIP – leave the herl rope and bobbin connected it helps with    maintaining the right tension    It is representative of some beetles we have about at the moment    and is very moorish to the fish (Browns). Have fun steve

Not to drop names, but I will be seeing Davy this weekend and would be pleased to obtain any additional info on this fly. E-Mail me at: am not sure if my net provider has a local #.

Response:

Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis patterns? I saw some in a shop the other day for sales. Deadly looking bugs, but 6 – 8 flys at $24 – ouch! I was told that his pattern was recently provided in an magazine published in the U.K. I unfortunately can’t identify the publication. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Response:

Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis patterns? I saw some in a shop the other day for sales. Deadly looking bugs, but 6 – 8 flys at $24 – ouch! I was told that his pattern was recently provided in an magazine published in the U.K. I unfortunately can’t identify the publication.

There was an article in a recent issue (either Dec. or Jan.) of Flyfisherman that described a technique for making woven bodied nymphs using two different colors of floss.  The article described some nymphs using a light and dark shade of heavy brown floss.  I had some olive and yellow floss so I tried a few.  I ended up creating some really nice looking green rockworm nymphs The process for creating the body is fairly time consuming when compared to a dubbed body so I assume that has something to do with cost.   I’m not sure if this was actually for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven Caddis but the instructions had a "key" step for starting the weave at the beginning that is supposed to make it easier.  Unfortunately the text had a typo in it.  It had you start with one color of floss in your left hand.  Then is said to put the other color in you left hand and I’m sure that one of those "lefts" was suppose to be a "right" but it was unclear how to figure it out from the rest of the text. — John Fereira "Guru of Miscellany" Pleasanton, CA "Ask me about my vow of silence."

Response:

: Does anyone have tying instructions for Davey Wotton’s Polish Wooven : Caddis patterns? I saw some in a shop the other day for sales. Deadly : looking bugs, but 6 – 8 flys at $24 – ouch! I was told that his pattern : was recently provided in an magazine published in the U.K. I : unfortunately can’t identify the publication. : Any and all help would be appreciated. Well B, it was the Sept/Oct 94 issue of Fly-Fishing and Fly-TYing. They certainly look good and aren’t that difficult to tie once you’ve done a few. The description is quite lengthy but if you can find anything on a SHUTTLE weave it should get you started. Some points I’ve noticed while fiddling with them:         – a correctly proportioned, smoothly tapered underbody is req’d         – you need a widish gape hook.         – surprisingly little lead is req’d – smoothish body sinks well.         – rayon flosses are slippery to use but can be managed         – wool is good         – Don’t neglect peacock herl         – use wool on size 6 hooks to practice         – leave materials in on the spool (don’t cut off lengths) it helps           with handling and tensioning. OB PATTERN         Wet beatle/nymph –         hook: Kamasan B175 Heavy traditional – size 10/12 mash barb.         thread: black         rib: fine copper wire with red tinge.         underbody: fine lead wire to suit application, build up nicely         tapered UB with thread AFTER tying in flosses,herls rib.         Body: woven – 3 peacock herl strands in rope with thread on top         the bottom being an orange floss heavy.         Head: BIG – BLACK and lacquered.         TIP – leave the herl rope and bobbin connected it helps with         maintaining the right tension         It is representative of some beetles we have about at the moment         and is very moorish to the fish (Browns). Have fun steve

Response: