Question:

I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

There are times, like climbing, skiing, or hiking through dense brush, where having a minimalist pack is preferred, with no appendages to get snagged. Most outdoor shops sell a variety of add-on pockets which attach to the various compression straps on the pack, top, sides and back. There are also some for the hip belt and shoulder straps for quick access to water, snacks, map, compass, camera, etc., without removing the pack. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Response:

If possible add a few fanny packs to the pack and use them for storage, compression and small day packs. You might want to start using a water bladder/hose assembly instead of a bottle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

The Kelty Cloud has modular pockets that can be purchased separate.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Since some of the add-on systems are real brand specific, some people get afterkmarket pockets sewn permanently onto the packs. penny – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

I’m not a pro, but I’ve used that pack and was also frustrated by the mesh pockets, especially seeing that the compression straps go right over the pocket.  Who the heck thought up that bright idea? There is one external pocket that’s on the very top in the detachable fanny pack.  I kept small stuff in that pocket, and also used it to keep a hydration bladder.  That worked much better than fighting to get a water bottle in and out of those mesh pockets. Joel

Response:

this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm That is it! Thank you very much!

   We get some other clips at $.15 a set if we buy 2000 sets;o)    Ed Huesers

Response:

That is it! Thank you very much! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain.    Well, this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm    Ed Huesers    http://www.grandshelters.com

Response:

I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain.

   Well, this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm    Ed Huesers    http://www.grandshelters.com

Response:

Visit your local fishing (especially fly fishing) store.  They have just what you’re looking forl  Looks like a necklace with clips for all kinds of little tools.  I wouldn’t be caught dead using one, but that’s just me.  I’m not a "purist" fly fisher anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain. I have a few of the keychain mini’biners but since I would clip them to a D ring or cord, they should be more bulky, heavy, and expensive than ideal. The nylon ones should be dirt cheap, half the size, and half the weight of even an mini’biner but only IF I can find some. I also camp with a BSA Troop so even if I buy a bag of 50-100, I could put them to use. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have you considered using rock climbing carabiners?  The actual "for climbing use" ones probably aren’t any lighter than the steel clips you found at the hardware store, but lots of places (REI, etc.) sell lightweight keychain carabiners.  I clip a few of those on my pack and use them to attach random stuff. Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

Have you considered using rock climbing carabiners?  The actual "for climbing use" ones probably aren’t any lighter than the steel clips you found at the hardware store, but lots of places (REI, etc.) sell lightweight keychain carabiners.  I clip a few of those on my pack and use them to attach random stuff.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I am not sure what plastic clips you are referring to.  I have an old style metal shower curtain ring on my pack for hanging wet sox, but I have used it for haning other items as well.  Wal-Mart carries them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source?

Response:

Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets. The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system.

Good point – I take back my blanket condemnation of the idea.  So they’re good for fuel and other stuff, bad for water bottles. Joel

Response:

In cold temps I carry a water bottle on my pack belt in a special holder(Gregory sells these too).  When it warms up I use a hydration bag and drinking tube.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets. The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system. Good point – I take back my blanket condemnation of the idea.  So they’re good for fuel and other stuff, bad for water bottles. Joel

Response:

I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets.  The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues? I’m not a pro, but I’ve used that pack and was also frustrated by the mesh pockets, especially seeing that the compression straps go right over the pocket.  Who the heck thought up that bright idea? There is one external pocket that’s on the very top in the detachable fanny pack.  I kept small stuff in that pocket, and also used it to keep a hydration bladder.  That worked much better than fighting to get a water bottle in and out of those mesh pockets. Joel

Response:

Question:

My friend Michael had some unusual interest a couple of years ago while fishing a P&O it was taken on his backcast by a dragonfly. Later while he was telling his fishing partner about this it happened again and it was witnessed. Each yearwhile at the Southern Conclave in Mountain Home i tie a dozen for the kids who fish togeather in a kids only section of the Norfolk River and only last year did they not take a bunch of fish for them. Last year was real different cause I have a friend that said that it was the first year in the last seventeen years that soft hackles did not work for him in that river during the conclave. This is another of the many things that I find that I do not pretend to understand. Soft hackles and bamboo rods seem to go togeather very well. You might want to tie up a few of the old Arkansas pattern called the Red Ass which is simply a partridge and peacock hurl tied with a red thread abdomen. Big Dale

You had sent me the recipe on the Red Ass before and I had forgotten it, thanks for the reminder.  I’m sure I can cook up some steelhead friendly versions of it too. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

My friend Michael had some unusual interest a couple of years ago while fishing a P&O it was taken on his backcast by a dragonfly. Later while he was telling his fishing partner about this it happened again and it was witnessed

This happened to a buddy of mine two years ago! The dragonfly was actually trying to fly off with his fly. He pulled it in and cast the dragonfly into the creek (still gnawing his fly) which was immediately attacked and mostly consumed by a trout, leaving him with a dragonfly-head-on-a-fly to cast about. He caught no fish with just the head. Sean

Response:

Tying the old north country style of wet flies is very addictive. Big Dale

Okay Dale, define that for me, please? — (C) George Gehrke 2001 http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

Here you go George: http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/emt3/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Tying the old north country style of wet flies is very addictive. Big Dale Okay Dale, define that for me, please? —

Response:

Funny how great minds think alike. About a year ago while tying at a weekly meeting of The Roadkill Roundtable my mind started wandering and I put a size 14 wet fly hook in the vise and started with about 5 fibers of zelon as a trailing shuck. I had a 12 pack of superfine dubbing with me so I then dubbed a body of chartreuse. Then I added a collar of bobwhite quail tied like you said with the fibers stripped from one side of the feather. I am sorry that I did not think of the read head. Mine worked very well last summer for my beloved bluegills and last fall for a few rainbows over in Arkansas. I am looking forward to hearing how they work for you. Tying the old north country style of wet flies is very addictive. Big Dale

These old wets were the first flies I tied and used. My first fish on my own fly was a half pound largemouth on a Partridge and Orange that a had fished on a slow pulse retrieve.  All of my early trout were either taken on a P&O or an EHC.  A few months ago, I picked up some Pearsall’s silk and a starling skin – they’re still sitting on the bench.  Perhaps this weekend. I’ll let you know how they work for ‘gills too, once the warm weather arrives. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

my own fly was a half pound largemouth on a Partridge and Orange that a had fished on a slow pulse retrieve.  All of my early trout were either taken on a P&O or an EHC.  

My friend Michael had some unusual interest a couple of years ago while fishing a P&O it was taken on his backcast by a dragonfly. Later while he was telling his fishing partner about this it happened again and it was witnessed. Each yearwhile at the Southern Conclave in Mountain Home i tie a dozen for the kids who fish togeather in a kids only section of the Norfolk River and only last year did they not take a bunch of fish for them. Last year was real different cause I have a friend that said that it was the first year in the last seventeen years that soft hackles did not work for him in that river during the conclave. This is another of the many things that I find that I do not pretend to understand. Soft hackles and bamboo rods seem to go togeather very well. You might want to tie up a few of the old Arkansas pattern called the Red Ass which is simply a partridge and peacock hurl tied with a red thread abdomen. Big Dale

Response:

the bug making business.  On Friday, my big steelie took a plain old Partridge & Orange yet the float rodder who ended up with seven on the day, swears by anything chartreuse.  So add 2 + 2 and I’m tying up size 12 Partridge & Flos on a Kamasan B175 (same as a Mustad 3906) in fluorescent green, chartreuse, or yellow using Uni’s Neon 1/0 braided thread plus a flo red 6/0 head .

Funny how great minds think alike. About a year ago while tying at a weekly meeting of The Roadkill Roundtable my mind started wandering and I put a size 14 wet fly hook in the vise and started with about 5 fibers of zelon as a trailing shuck. I had a 12 pack of superfine dubbing with me so I then dubbed a body of chartreuse. Then I added a collar of bobwhite quail tied like you said with the fibers stripped from one side of the feather. I am sorry that I did not think of the read head. Mine worked very well last summer for my beloved bluegills and last fall for a few rainbows over in Arkansas. I am looking forward to hearing how they work for you. Tying the old north country style of wet flies is very addictive. Big Dale

Response:

The fishing season will start in a couple of weeks and so I was doing some preparations. I decided to dress some basic flypatterns. After  sitting in front of my tying vise and having tied some nice Buck caddis and GRHE goldhead I had been bored of these. So I asked myself a question; which other patterns should I dress and are there any other useful things to do with my fishing gear? I start with my results and hope of some other ROFF(T) hints: Do some pheasant tail nymphs and Adams. Exchange your leaders, which means for me make some new furled leaders. Best Regards and tight lines Wim

Response:

Well, if guys could see what I’m tying now, I’d be drummed out of the bug making business.  On Friday, my big steelie took a plain old Partridge & Orange yet the float rodder who ended up with seven on the day, swears by anything chartreuse.  So add 2 + 2 and I’m tying up size 12 Partridge & Flos on a Kamasan B175 (same as a Mustad 3906) in fluorescent green, chartreuse, or yellow using Uni’s Neon 1/0 braided thread plus a flo red 6/0 head .  Tie on the 1/0 flo, and wrap over a few strands of mallard for the tail, wrap back and tie off.  Tie on the red flo and add two turns of partridge spider style (one side trimmed off.)  It actually doesn’t look all that bad and I think it just might work.   Picture to follow on ABPF.  Field tests due this week.  Stay tuned. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Question:

What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it.

I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count? Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count?

It depends, Wayne. How many flies did they "give" you? You’d have to divide the cost of the rod by the number of flies, but then you’d still have the rod. So I guess is doesn’t count. Now if you actually wanted the flies but not the rod, and the only way they’d sell you the flies was with the rod … My most expensive fly was an ordinary beadhead nymph. I was fishing some high water in May, snagged it on the other side of the stream, and took a bath going to retrieve it, ruining the $600 camera I was foolishly carrying. I just got a digital camera but I don’t yet have a waterproof case. (Soon!) I won’t wade in more than 6" of water if I’m carrying it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

my own slamon flies but a few I have bought.  I paid $95 for an Art Flick Cream Variant.  Looking back, I think I got soaked.  I have two Poul Jorgensen speys that I paid $60 for the both.  Mary Dette will sell you her dries & nymphs for $2.50 a piece yet.  Fran Betters will tie you on order for 2 bucks per fly.  I much prefer trading, though.  John Gierach has a "Trade Wind" that I tied, and in exchange I have two Labrador drakes, a hopper, and a stonefly.  He is actually a real good tier.  Ed Shenk has a Ruby butterfly of mine (probably in a desk drawer.)  My next target is Gary Lafontaine.  If anybody can give me his mailing address, can I have it?  He won’t answer my emails! Pete C

Response:

I have some gorilla charlies tied from fur gathered from a mature silvertip lowland gorilla by a zoo vet.  The were free but would probably be somewhat difficult  to replace.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

______  In this case, it isn’t a question of ‘expensive’ even though a dry fly tied by George Harvey is now going for $125 each.  There is a limited number of these jewels of dry fly perfection in THIS MANS remaining lifetime.  No George is still with us, (Thank You Lord!) but the fact remains, he is probably ‘thee’ premier dry fly tier in the world.  With eye sight failing, George (The Dry Fly Man) Harvey probably ties the best dry flies in the world.  There is no one his equal or superior.  He is an icon of ‘the craft.’   I can tie dry flies nearly as nice as George Harvey’s but I had tying lessons by  him and I was a very inattentive student.  I watched HOW he USED his hands, his fingers, his wrists.  I spent hours watching him, right by his side in many Eastern Fly Tying Shows.  To watch George tie just ONE FLY is enough information to turn on six more light bulbs in ones head.  It isn’t so much the things you remember but the many little things you miss.  The subtitles, the way the feathers are placed, a dozen things slips by even an experts eye.  One has to see him tie more than one, to get it right. The fact is, a George Harvey tied dry fly is worth more than just money.  I have several dozen of these flies which I have paid George a small fortune for.  He chuckles at my sincerity regarding his value to the world of Fly Fishing.  Those flies are now sitting in a safe.  The question is, would anyone here fish with one of these flies AFTER paying $125 or more for one? I would.  In fact, I do.  They sit on the water, like magic.  He sits on my shoulder watching the drift.   And the trout cometh. Mr. G.   ‘all’s fair with fur or feather’ http://216.55.26.157/vchat/   http://www.gink.com http://www.rodbuilding.com (Bamboo Is Fun) http://www.xink.com 509-243-4100 or 5500

Question:

I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim

Response:

For bluefish smaller than 4 pounds you can get away with 30 pound mason or similar hard mono.  Anything bigger and you will wnat singlestrand wire. Cehck out any of the good knot books (Mclane or whoever) for ways to join wire to mono. For spanish mackerel heavy mono is fine.  King macs wire.   Northern pike will let you get away with mono.  there are some who say wire is better because it is thinner.  In my experience it just scares the fish due to shine.  Use clear Mason. Do no use braided wire.  No good at all.

I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim — Flyfish NC                                                   Gordon Churchill http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/3853                                                                    

Response:

I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim

Hi Jim, I think most fly fishers use wire for Barracudas, Northern Pike, Sharks and Bluefish. For Billfish, Tarpon, Snook and Jacks most use heavy/hard mono. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Question:

I’m going to be in Ft. Myers, Florida in August.  Does anyone have any suggestions for fly fishing spots that are accessible on foot in the Ft. Myers beach, Sanibel Island area? –

Response:

-  GEORGE ,

You can cast for snook and trout right from the beach in the morning. It’s fun! Stop in at a fly shop and ask for some local patterns. You may even see some tarpon. Best of luck, Gary C. Floridian Fly Fisherman "Lie ? Me ? Never!  No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun !" – Captain Hook

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone recommend sources of "formulas" for tying leaders. I purchase a Maxima "kit" from Cabela’s which was advertised to contain "instructions" but was told by their Customer sevice rep that the mfg. does not supply such instructions. I have an old Orvis formula chart an article from Fly Fisherman which covers a few George Harvey formulas but would like to find something more extensive. Ideas? Tight Lines Ted Miller Can anyone recommend sources of "formulas" for tying leaders. I purchase a Maxima "kit" from Cabela’s which was advertised to contain "instructions" but was told by their Customer sevice rep that the mfg. does not supply such instructions. I have an old Orvis formula chart an article from Fly Fisherman which covers a few George Harvey formulas but would like to find something more extensive. Ideas? Tight Lines Ted Miller

Ted: For what it’s worth, I’ve been using George Harvey formula leaders for many years, mostly in the east but on many western rivers as well, and have found these leaders to be entirely satisfactory.  Of course, on stream I end up making all sorts of adjustments, depending on what I’m fishing and what the water is like, so I’m not sure what "formula" I would have at any given time.  The Harvey formulas are good starting points, however. Mark Faulkner

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Hi, One of my favorites, especially for Atlantic Salmon. 55 % Butt (heavy section)(mostly of 1 peice, can be 2) 25% Tapered Sections ( 4 short decending weights) 20% tippet (1 section) This is an easy formula to remember – 100" leader, and easy to work up or down in proportion For example 55" – 30 lb,   25" ( approx – 6" each) – 25lb, 20lb,15lb, 12lb,   20" – 8 lb. Works for me. Dennis Grant Atlantic FLy Fishing School Brookfield, NS

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Might also look at http://www.flyshop.com/Tactics/01-97Leaders/index.html for more information.

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Can anyone recommend sources of "formulas" for tying leaders. I purchase a Maxima "kit" from Cabela’s which was advertised to contain "instructions" but was told by their Customer sevice rep that the mfg. does not supply such instructions. I have an old Orvis formula chart an article from Fly Fisherman which covers a few George Harvey formulas but would like to find something more extensive. Ideas? Tight Lines Ted Miller

I noticed that some of those pocket version books such us "Guide of knots for leaders" have a lot of info that can be useful.   They are laminated so you could have them with you when you are fishing.  I am pretty sure you could get them in your local fishing store.   Arek.

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Ted; I bought the Maxima Kit from Cabela’s three years ago and it did come with a table of tapers. Can’t imagine why they arn’t putting it in the package now. I am providing several typical taper formulas in this posting and if you want others I will follow up based on any description of use that you provide. Enjoy! Regards, Ken Table ! Maxima Chameleon Leader size to Hook Size Size    Test    Dia     Hook 6x      2lb.    .oo5    18-24 5x      3lb.    .006    14-20 4x      4lb.    .007    10-16 3x      5lb.    .008    6-12 2x      6lb.    .009    2-10 1x      8lb.    .010    2/0-6 01x     10lb.   .012    4/0-4 02x     12lb.   .013    6/0-2 Join sections with blood knot Table 2 Maxima 60/20/20 Tapered Leader Formulas 5-7 Weight Lines 10′ Leader Test            Dia             Length 25              .020                    40" 20              .017                    27" 15              .015    (4")       (5")       6" 12 (02x)                .013    (4")       (5")       6" 10 (01x)                .012    (4")       (5")       6" 8 (1x)          .010    (4")       (5")       6" 6 (2x)          .009    (4")       (5")       24" 4 (4x)          .007    (4")       (24")       3 (5x)          .006    (24") 5-7 Weight Lines 12′ Leader Test            Dia             Length 25              .020                    52" 20              .017                    35" 15              .015            (5")       6" 12 (02x)                .013            (5")       6" 10 (01x)                .012            (5")       6" 8 (1x)          .010            (5")       6" 6 (2x)          .009            (5")       6" 4 (4x)          .007            (5")       (28") 3 (5x)          .006            (28") 8-9 Weight Lines 10′ Leader Test            Dia             Length 30              .022                    44" 25              .020                    27" 20              .017    (5")       (6")       8"" 15              .015    (5")       (6")       8" 12 (02x)                .013    (5")       (6")       8" 10 (01x)                .012    (5")       (6")       24" 8 (1x)          .010    (5")       (24") 6 (2x)          .009    (24") 8-9 Weight Lines 12′ Leader Test            Dia             Length 30              .022                    52" 25              .020                    35" 20              .017            (6")       7"" 15              .015            (6")       7" 12 (02x)                .013            (6")       7" 10 (01x)                .012            (6")       7" 8 (1x)          .010            (6")       28" 6 (2x)          .009            (28") – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone recommend sources of "formulas" for tying leaders. I purchase a Maxima "kit" from Cabela’s which was advertised to contain "instructions" but was told by their Customer sevice rep that the mfg. does not supply such instructions. I have an old Orvis formula chart an article from Fly Fisherman which covers a few George Harvey formulas but would like to find something more extensive. Ideas? Tight Lines Ted Miller

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Question:

 HI All,         I am looking for links for good fishing sites to add to my links page. If anyone has a good link or web site that isn’t already on the list could you please e-mail the address along with the title of the site and what country it is in. —   Davy Holt Surfing from Clydebank Scotland *  " O Sir, doubht not that angling is                                 *    an art… The question is rather Scottish Angling Homepage       *    whether you are capable of learning   http://www.dholt.demon.co.uk    *    it?"                                                                        Izaak Walton

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Hello, I used a great guide service in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area last year and would recommend it to anyone who was looking. Their webpage is at:  http://members.aol.com/canoetrail/bwcaw.html check it out!

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Fly fishing for Stripers in Cape Elizabeth, Maine Fly fishing for Reds on Cumberland Island, Georgia Reply:  North Atlantic Guides

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WE ARE PLANNING ON GOING TO SANNIBELL (SP?) ISLAND THIS SPRING, ANY TIPS?

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Question:

The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!! Not always true.  My front teeth bear witness to that sad fact.  It’s been my experience that most often you’ll need a roll in a sea kayak nearer to shore where the waves are a lot different (less regular), and where rocks can lurk just under the surface to rearrange the faces of the less wary.

Well, that is why I said "as much".   But you’re probably right that nearshore is where you’re most likely to capsize, right where rocks are most hazardous.  Not only are the waves less regular, they’re also bigger and more likely to break in the shallow spots where the rocks lurk. — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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I saw a good video several years ago put out by Perception when I was taking the ACA instructor class.  It shows a young lady sitting in her boat on the pool deck.  She puts the top of her head on the pool deck while keeping the boat upright…  It helps to have that kind of flexibility but it’s not required.  I’m sure you could get it from them. I have to agree  with the post by Chip Mefford.  In the sessions I’ve taught the technique he describes works best for most people.  There are basically 3 types of learners (get the ACA instructors man. for details on that) & you need to teach different people different ways.  I was able to teach my 110 lb. daughter to roll an open canoe (72 lb. outfitted) in about two hours so it’s technique not muscle. Dave Stockdill

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Grace Under Pressure – Learning the Kayak Roll is good c-c only The Kayaker’s Edge also has a section on both the c-c & the sweep roll.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In the fly fishing world about 15 years ago there was a deluge of articles on the mechanics of fly casting.  Most were written by excellent casters who really did know how to cast but who really didn’t have a clear visualization of what they were actually doing.  Videotaping eventually provided the correct answers.   Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC  28311                          Office: 910-630-7037

Yes, watch what they do and don’t pay to much attention to what they say they do. THE KAYAKERS EDGE BY KENT FORD is one of the best how to kayaking videos.It has a lot more than rolling. Buy it,rent it or borrow it,after you have seen it you’ll probably buy it,if you aren’t to short of cash. My 11 year old grand son taught himself to roll I guess from watching the video. I sure didn’t teach him.                     gene

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Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where?

In "The Kayaker’s Edge", amidst all of the other intro and skill stuff, is about a ten minute bit on rolling. It’s got some good camera work that follows the roll above and below the water’s surface. It should be helpful for a lot of people. Paul

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Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob

"Grace Under Pressure" is an excellent video discussing the C-to-C roll.  It discusses the on-side, off-side and the hand roll.  I highly recommend it.  This was the video I was shown before I even got into a kayak for the first time.  I eventually bought a copy for myself and find it very useful. Viewing that in combination with reading the Bomb Proof Roll has helped me a lot.  I would check with your local REI, I know they have the book, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they have the video.  Or, any shop that carries kayaking equipment should have the video or know where to find it.   Also, most of the paddling companies who do mail order has it. I know for sure that the latest NRS catalog has it.  You can even order a catalog from NRS’s home page at http://www.gorp.com/nrs.htm Happy rolling! Harriet

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I sincerely apologize for the confusion and appreciate the kind advice sent my way.  The original post appeared to be a sea kayaking fellow who was concentrating on the motion of his paddle — with no mention of hip snap.   Is there anyone out there in a sea kayak who can help him? Again, sorry for the confusion!!!

What confusion?  I’m a sea kayaker, and I’ve a good roll.  I really do not believe the roll is any different (in principle) in a sea kayak or a whitewater kayak.  The hip snap is just as much the key to the roll in a sea kayak.  Your advice was right on.  The boats do feel differently, and some sea kayaks can be very difficult to roll (certainly not all!), but the basic principles of rolling are exactly the same. The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!! — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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I’ve read two full descriptions, with pictures, of Eskimo rolls.  No wonder beginners get confused.  It took me several readings of both and careful scrutiny of the photographs to realize that the descriptions were essentially the same.  To wit:      Leverage roll  =  C-to-C roll      Screw roll  =  Sweep roll Beyond that, the descriptions spend more words on what to do with the paddle than on the mechanics of the hip roll which actually rights the boat.   Underwater, a person’s head and upper body have much more "sail area" than the paddle.  Positioning the paddle properly sets up the boater’s upper body in a brace for the hip roll.  Once the boat flips upright, the paddle brace helps the boater roll upright. In the fly fishing world about 15 years ago there was a deluge of articles on the mechanics of fly casting.  Most were written by excellent casters who really did know how to cast but who really didn’t have a clear visualization of what they were actually doing.  Videotaping eventually provided the correct answers.   Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC  28311                          Office: 910-630-7037

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What confusion?  I’m a sea kayaker, and I’ve a good roll.  I really do not believe the roll is any different (in principle) in a sea kayak or a whitewater kayak.  The hip snap is just as much the key to the roll … The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!!

Not always true.  My front teeth bear witness to that sad fact.  It’s been my experience that most often you’ll need a roll in a sea kayak nearer to shore where the waves are a lot different (less regular), and where rocks can lurk just under the surface to rearrange the faces of the less wary.

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re: Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

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Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

Hips, hips, hips, and keep the head underwater for as long as humanly possible.  :-) — Macalester College St. Paul, Minnesota http://sonic.bigelow.macalstr.edu

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Wow!  I bet this turns into a monster thread….it might even exceed "Peeing in your boat"… I taught myself to roll with no outside instruction and, since I’m too dense to make sense out of pictoral instructions, virtually no book instruction. To start off the hundred-or-so tips you’ll undoubtdedly receive here, I would say go out and purchase a diving mask and wear it when you practice rolling.   I got nowhere except a bad sinus infiction before I started using a noseclip.   Using the noseclip I began to make progress; but once I started wearing the diving mask things really picked up – with tha mask on it is much easier to just sort of hang there upside-down and think things out before trhing to roll up. There are three or four other things I’m tempted to say, but I’ll leave them to those that know better than I do.

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A full face mask really helps while you are learning. Also the vido Kayakers Edge is white water but very good. Watch how others do it and don,t listen to closely to how they say they do it.

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re: Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

I taught myself a simple cross roll first.  Noseclip, mask, a watcher to give you feed back.  I wraped the end of the paddle in an old sleeping pad and stuck it in the rungs of my ladder leading into the lake.  Once I could do that OK, I moved to float on the end of the paddle.  Finally I could do a simple roll with just the paddle.  Then I learned a real extended paddle roll.  Never could get a screw roll down with the heavier sea kayak – might have to do with narrow paddle and lots of surface area and deck rigging. Have fun Steve

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| re: | | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks George: I think the best thing would be to take lessons. But, let me say a coupla things about rolls in general, at least for *me*.  If you get up part way and seem to sink back at the last moment, you are trying to raise your head too fast. I have found that keeping my eyes on the paddle as it sweeps back forces me to keep my head down. I also use the extended paddle roll, which IMHO is the best for a sea kayak roll beginner. Don’t forget the hip snap, try to have another person watch as you try your rolls, they might see you doing things that you aren’t aware of. Also, wearing a PFD during your attempts, even in a pool, helps to get started. Finaly, I have to practice each spring or I find that I get "rusty". Good luck. —         )                                J sales rep-sgi     http://www.dayton.sgi.com dayton, oh        513-258-7441  fax 7449

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Take a pool rolling class.  Four or five sessions should do it.  I also recommend the dive mask starting out.  The AMC and Casco Bay here in the Boston area offer these with a boat for under $100.  Good chance to try out other boats and meet some people to paddle with. — Regards, Sean

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Some things to help with learning to roll, roll, roll yer boat: 1)  Relax and have fun with this.  It’s NOT a muscle thing so just relax. 2)  Start by rolling the boat over with your hips on the edge of a pool      or dock or something to hold onto. 3)  Graduate to using a couple of kickboards after you can do the hip      roll easily on both sides from the solid hold. 4)  Reach out to the side as far as possible using the boards before      rolling up. 5)  Keep your head down as you "slinky" up rolling your hips first and      FOLLOWING with your head.  If your head comes out first before the      boat is over you’ll never make it. 6)  Once you can do this easily on one or both sides, take one of the      kickboards away.  One kickboard is about the lift that your paddle      will give, so try this until you can do it easily. 7)  NOW you can use your paddle, but it helps to have someone hold the end     at first.  With the paddle parallel to the boat as you go over with     your good hand forward (usually your writing hand, but eventually either)     sweep the paddle across the TOP of the water until the paddle is     perpendicular to the boat.  This forces your non-writing hand elbow     to slide UNDER the boat bottom and out of the water (when the boat is     upside down.  Then do the hip-slinky thing to roll the boat over and     follow with your head.  It helps to have someone watch and hold the     paddle a couple of times to get the feel and to have them watch that the     blade angle is flat on the surface of the water before you hip snap.  Don’t give up, it’s damn hard to do at first, but once you "get it" you     will wonder why it seemed so hard. 9)  Relax!  It doesn’t take a lot of muscle, it’s a technique thing. 10) Once you get it, play around with different ways of using your paddle     to get up and intentionally make yourself roll over in all sorts of     funny positions to learn to get into position from almost any angle etc… This is called the C to C roll, the eskimo is real similar but sweeps the blade rather than placing it perpendicular before you roll (kinda like doing the set-up for a C to C at the same time you roll your hips.  Most people need to learn the hip snap before putting it all together.  The eskimo roll from the stern of the boat rather than the bow is called a styr roll and is accomplished be sitting up from leaning back rather than from sweeping back from leaning forward. One of the greatest joys is your first roll in whitewater!  : ) Happy rolling! Robb

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

i learned my good side roll with the standard c to c hip  snap, with a wide blade paddle. i never learned my bad side roll untill i started doing extended braces to the point where i could get my head in the water and skull in place .when you can do this with your head under the water you have mastered the hard part which is getting your head out without going back down. think it through in your head, it helps, and practice,practice,practice. just my 2 cents worth. my bad side roll was learned with my much prefered narrow blade paddle

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I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

The above was in response to: | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

I sincerely apologize for the confusion and appreciate the kind advice sent my way.  The original post appeared to be a sea kayaking fellow who was concentrating on the motion of his paddle — with no mention of hip snap.   Is there anyone out there in a sea kayak who can help him? Again, sorry for the confusion!!! Happy paddling! Cheers Elizabeth

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I agree with all that has been said and especially encourage you to try the mask or goggles. I am still working on a consistent roll. My biggest problem is that I tend to lift my head too soon. I didn’t even believe i was doing it at first so I put on the goggles and opened my eyes and sure enough I was looking at the ceiling intstead of at my paddle or the pool bottom. As long as I look at the bottom I tend to come up without fail. Good luck Lisa

well, sheesh, I really kinda hate to say this;   I readily concurr with all these folks that all these aids may very well be the cats meow for some folk, but my experience has been rather different.   It took me a solid two years before I had a "bomber" roll. These days I can usually teach a 2 person class to roll in one pool session, 2 sessions at the outside.  I bought into the whole reading, goggles, nose plugs, video whatever. , , , , the thing is, where visualation may be of some assistance for some things, rolling is SO counterintuitive that for most people, making an attempt at visualizing what is going on only handicaps their progression.  I was honored once opon a time to teach alongside Eric Jackson of Adventure Schools. EJ can (I’ve seen him do it) teach a group of half a dozen people who have never held a paddle to roll in about an hour without getting out of his boat most of the time.  I can say with some certainty, that rolling is a BODY move, where sitting around underwater, upside down, looking around with your goggles on, is ridiculously disorienting. Visualizing is an INTELLECTUAL exercise. If your try to teach your intellect to teach your body to do something that is very counter to instinct, you are fighting an uphill battle with a slim chance at success. Facts are, your body wants air, in order to get air, it wants to get its air ports, (yer head) out of the water, as long as you are trying to get your head out first, you will fail.   I cannot teach as Eric does, I teach in the water, I only demonstrate that the roll is in fact quite easy, does not require a paddle, and can be done on or off sides. I after demonstrating these things so as to make them appear as easy as they in fact are, I beach my boat, get in the water with my students, sans paddles, take them by the hands, get good eye contact and show them how to use their bodies to make the move. Then I give them their paddle back, posistion it for them as they go through the motions a few times, each time gently correcting any attempts to use strength over grace, each time easing my grip on the paddle untill I only have a few fingers on the blade. I then usually let the blade go after positioning it a few times, soon I am not doing anything other than being close by as they execute their first few rolls. More often than not, my students are not aware that they have rolled on their own untill I tell them.  I guess my point is, rather than spend a lot of time concerning oneself with the "Okay, I’m upside down now, so if I put this hand here, cant the shaft this way, put that hand there, turn my head this way, and then, , ,  uh, I need to , , , uh, , , wait, lemme see, I need to twich this way and push that way and move the paddle this other way, , , wait, uh, , I need to, , , , crap, I need to breath!!! , , arrgghhh!!!"  Hook up with an instructor and have them teach you. Post Script;   It is a little strange in some sense, less so in others, that by and large both, in my experience, women very often learn the roll much faster than their S.O.’s in class. There are a lot of things at play here, however, i.m.e. the women seldom attempt to strong arm the roll, and the men nealy always do. In fact the more athletic the man, the more difficult it is to get them to let themselves roll. As another digression, I’ve had folk with a background in oriental martial arts specificly Akido, roll on their first try after having the roll slowly demonstrated.     Once I had a gal tell me that she though the paddle was messing her up, then executed a hands roll after about 2 tries. That perplexes me to this day. It was a real pill gettting her to roll with a paddle.

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, , , , the thing is, where visualation may be of some assistance for some things, rolling is SO counterintuitive that for most people, making an attempt at visualizing what is going on only handicaps their progression. … I can say with some certainty, that rolling is a BODY move, where sitting around underwater, upside down, looking around with your goggles on, is ridiculously disorienting. Visualizing is an INTELLECTUAL exercise. If your try to teach your intellect to teach your body to do something that is very counter to instinct, you are fighting an uphill battle with a slim chance at success. Facts are,

Well, I, for one, would like to state that this depends very much on who you are and how you learn, and different people learn in different manners.   In particular, I *absolutely* need to visualize a manuever before I can do it – and once I’ve visualized it completely, I really *can* do it.  It’s very frustrating for me when people of the opposite type (going for the "feel" of it *without* the visualization) try to teach me any physical skill.  I just can’t do it. On the other hand, contrary to most people’s experience, I very easily picked up my "off" side roll, once I had a good "on" side roll.  It was, for me, literally no more than reversing what I did on the "on" side.  No "learning" of body movements was required; all I had to do was visualize the reversed movements. What I’m trying to say is that we’re all different, and it’s hard to generalize that this way or that way is the best way to learn for everyone.  Some of us require visualization, and some of us require the body training. I guess my point is, rather than spend a lot of time concerning oneself with the "Okay, I’m upside down now, so if I put this hand here, cant the shaft this way, put that hand there, turn my head this way, and then, , ,  uh, I need to , , , uh, , , wait, lemme see, I need to twich this way and push that way and move the paddle this other way, , , wait, uh, , I need to, , , , crap, I need to breath!!! , , arrgghhh!!!"  Hook up with an instructor and have them teach you.

I agree that an instructor helps, on the other hand.  I need to watch an instructor to *see* exactly what he was doing.  But then I needed to think it through and visualize the whole process. — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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 Once I had a gal tell me that she though the paddle was messing her up, then executed a hands roll after about 2 tries. That perplexes me to this day. It was a real pill gettting her to roll with a paddle.

I believe thqt there is really something to this idea that: "this clumsy paddle messes me up when I try to roll" My son could do hand rolls, both sides, the second day trying to roll, however he is still having trouble using a paddle to roll. I think that when you have a paddle in your hands, you use it and forget about the body. If you don’t have a paddle, you KNOW you have to use your body. Makes sense to me. Jon Hauris

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– Thanks, Dell Killian, Code 471350D       Phone:  619-939-2372 Naval Air Warfare Center         FAX:    619-939-8293 China Lake, CA 93555-6001

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writes: I have read of good fishing on Salmon Falls Creek, which          flows into Idaho near Jackpot. Browns and rainbows on          the upper stretches. I’ve been by it numerous times, but          never fished it. Looked good though …..

Bob, Is this the stream that runs along side of the road?  It always looked to warm to hold trout, unless you are talking about bass. Ernie Harrison

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 (Bob Evans) writes: I have read of good fishing on Salmon Falls Creek, which          flows into Idaho near Jackpot. Browns and rainbows on          the upper stretches. I’ve been by it numerous times, but          never fished it. Looked good though ….. Bob, Is this the stream that runs along side of the road?  It always looked to warm to hold trout, unless you are talking about bass. Ernie Harrison

A Couple of years ago I was in Twin Falls on biz and Id Fish and Game had just dumped "excess" hatchery steelhead into Salmon Falls Crk and locals were busy.  Seemed like a rather strange recycling operation.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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: Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, : 702-753-JIMS : Jim, this seems an awful lot like an ad.   Either give us some information : rather than a teaser, or stay the hell out of our faces.  Thanks. And please…be honest.  Forty fish days with an 18" average?  I guess the Henry’s Fork reputation is overdone.  The real water is in the deserts of N. Nevada. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    |  These University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    |  opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. |  are mine.

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Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, 702-753-JIMS

Jim, this seems an awful lot like an ad.   Either give us some information rather than a teaser, or stay the hell out of our faces.  Thanks. John

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Yes, there is fishing in Northern Nevada!  How does 40 fish days with an 18 inch average sound to you? This is on Public waters.  So many travel through here to stand shoulder to shoulder on the northern Rocky waters only to have a few drift boats cross their lines when they could have a couple of miles of stream to themselves here…..   Most of the fishing is subsurface–nymphs, buggers, leaches, wooleys, etc., but there is some dry fishing, especially in the smaller high creeks and lakes. There is a wide variety of fishing from bellyboating for bass and lunker trout to wading small creeks for wild brookies or even native Lahontan Cutthroat Trout..  Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, 702-753-JIMS

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s a hot one – As I was putting on my waders the other day, the guy parked next to me was putting on his vest and getting ready to head to the river.  I looked up and noticed he had EVERY gadget known to man on his vest.  His zingers looked like a general’s decorations.  Must have been at least 6 of them.  He even had his gooseneck mini-light (it was the middle of the afternoon).  I kinda rolled my eyes and went about my business.  An hour or so later I came upon him fishing upstream from where I was wading.  I just happened to look up to see him tie on a new fly, and damn if he didn’t take it up to his mouth and bite off the tag. Guess he forgot his nippers.  A sunny day,     a box of midges,        and a wandering stream…  Man, this MUST be heaven!  <    Steve Kulpa    <<

Hey !!! that was me !!!.  And no, I had everything, I just LUV the taste of tippet ! Hehehe just kidding I only have 5 zingers Tom

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Ah, an excellent organizational plan! I used to keep most of my flies, bugs, etc. in the car, but can’t afford a larger vehicle right now ;=). JL 8-Wt Editor

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So ugly flies is the answer to blues? I’ve been tying sand eels for the last two days, white and olive fishair with a few fibers of olive or blue sparkle and epoxy heads over stick-on eyes.  After Victorian mixed-wing salmon flies it’s a lark.  Going out tomorrow to Perkins Pier again with my new shooting head and see what that will do for me.  Have to figure out a whole new way of going at things, and this after fifty years of intuitive casting…it’s hell to writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I begin fishing in May, when the stripers show up. For that first month all I pack is one fly box containing size 1 Clousers and Surf Candies, two shooting heads – a floater and a sinker so I can fish through the tide, one spool of tippet material and pliers. In June, when the blues start showing up, I bring a spare reel and a tackle box (heathen!) where I keep poppers, wire shock tippets, and every fly I ever tied that was too ugly to show in public. If I’m going to sacrifice flies to blitzing blues they might as well be the ugly ones. I’ve never seen other flyfishers carrying a tackle box, but the things really work pretty well. Of course *my* tackle box is made of zebra wood and inlaid with mother of pearl…..

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When I briefly entertained the notion of buying an XXL vest to put over my existing one (needed somewhere to put that pair of Night Vision Binocs I was scrapin" up the money for…), I decided I might be a little out of control. Am now weaning myself off non-essentials, one for every trip, and will soon to be down to only 5 fly boxes… How Primitive!! Lon C. Diehl Michigan

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Re "too much junk": A few years ago, I decided to lose all the excess gadgetry in my vest. No more knot tying devices, bug capturing nets, stomach pumps, etc, etc, etc. I have only bought one gadget in the last couple years…Gus’ Montana Flot Pak. Its a hanger you clip to your vest that hold you fly flotant upside down on the front, where its easily accessible. It works great, and would have been especially useful when my vest was bulging with all that excess gear. I never seemed to put the floatant away in the same pocket twice, so whenever I needed it, I spent 5 minutes rummaging around trying to find it, cussing like a drunken sailor the whole time.  Seemed as though it was always in the last pocket.  Perhaps now that I have reduced my inventory to a bare minimum, I shouldn’t need it, but what the heck, the thing caught my eye and I couldn’t resist. I see Orvis and others have copied the concept, but I still think the Flot Pak is the best. Besides, the guy that invented it deserves credit, and business, for coming up with a nifty idea. Any moron can copy. Originality is rare and should be rewarded. Dale Owens

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Here’s a hot one – As I was putting on my waders the other day, the guy parked next to me was putting on his vest and getting ready to head to the river.  I looked up and noticed he had EVERY gadget known to man on his vest.  His zingers looked like a general’s decorations.  Must have been at least 6 of them.  He even had his gooseneck mini-light (it was the middle of the afternoon).  I kinda rolled my eyes and went about my business.  An hour or so later I came upon him fishing upstream from where I was wading.  I just happened to look up to see him tie on a new fly, and damn if he didn’t take it up to his mouth and bite off the tag. Guess he forgot his nippers.   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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