Question:

I am going to a wedding at Camp Colton in Colton,OR (near Oregon City about an hour outside of Portland). Anyone know of any good/decent fishing around there? I read some of the older posts but I don’t know where those rivers are in relation to Colton. Thanks in advance

Response:

I am going to a wedding at Camp Colton in Colton,OR (near Oregon City about an hour outside of Portland). Anyone know of any good/decent fishing around there?

You are practically on top of the Clackamas and a reasonable drive from the Sandy. Both are producing record numbers of steelhead and a few Springer’s are showing up too. visit www.ifish.com for latest reports from the local riff raff. numerous Oregon fishing links can be found at http://blueox.uoregon.edu/~dmason/Mckenzie/linkdb/results/yokels.html weekly fishing reports at http://www.dfw.state.or.us/ODFWhtml/RecReports/Fishing.html and the Oregon Council of Fly Fishers has a nice set of links to reports and river levels at http://oregonfff.org/ click on "contents… Enjoy your visit… Cos

Response:

I am going to a wedding at Camp Colton in Colton,OR (near Oregon City about an hour outside of Portland). Anyone know of any good/decent fishing around there?

(reposted after correcting iFish link) You are practically on top of the Clackamas and a reasonable drive from the Sandy. Both are producing record numbers of steelhead and a few Springer’s are showing up too. visit www.ifish.net for latest reports from the local riff raff. numerous Oregon fishing links can be found at http://blueox.uoregon.edu/~dmason/Mckenzie/linkdb/results/yokels.html weekly fishing reports at http://www.dfw.state.or.us/ODFWhtml/RecReports/Fishing.html and the Oregon Council of Fly Fishers has a nice set of links to reports and river levels at http://oregonfff.org/ click on "contents… Enjoy your visit… Cos

Response:

When are you going to be there? Crusty (Estacada)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am going to a wedding at Camp Colton in Colton,OR (near Oregon City about an hour outside of Portland). Anyone know of any good/decent fishing around there? I read some of the older posts but I don’t know where those rivers are in relation to Colton. Thanks in advance

Response:

I will be there the weekend before Labor Day. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When are you going to be there? Crusty (Estacada) I am going to a wedding at Camp Colton in Colton,OR (near Oregon City about an hour outside of Portland). Anyone know of any good/decent fishing around there? I read some of the older posts but I don’t know where those rivers are in relation to Colton. Thanks in advance

Response:

Question:

My wife arranged a ten day trip to the British Virgin Islands to combine some flyfishing with a 25th anniversary tropic island getaway.

i can’t believe you didn’t invite us….. <g –waldo…. your excitement is contagious….

Response:

Outstanding trip reports and great photo’s!! Gary

Response:

Good one, tripper.  A most appreciated report on a cold, wet Sunday in autumnal Melbourne.  I’m particularly please dto hear the SO seems to have had a good time as well … give’s me hope  :-) Steve

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand, followed by the obligatory hero shot.

Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for the report. TL MC

Response:

[snip] – fishing the flats for bones is just a riot. I might be horribly spoiled by the experience. Only time will tell. I might try fishing the Rapid with a 2 weight to simulate the experience

Try fishing for stripers with a 2wt

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand,

Fabulous report. I can sense your excitement. Jealous as Hell! Willi

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a /daytripper (Could’ve fooled me – I thought we were dead meat! =8-O

Daytripper, Thanx for the report. Adding it to my deranged fantasy folder today!  Best Wishes. DaveMohnsen Denver

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand, followed by the obligatory hero shot. My wife arranged a ten day trip to the British Virgin Islands to combine some flyfishing with a 25th anniversary tropic island getaway.  We started at Anegada Reef, as I did half-days fishing the mangroves for bones with Dave "Clinton" Vanterpool, an outstanding guide and local legend. We followed that with a full week on Tortola, mixing tarpon fishing with beaching, sailing, and snorkeling. In short, it was a freakin’ blast of a trip – e-ticket stuff all the way. We came back with tans and smiles – and a couple of wicked line burns and sore knuckles. Anegada Island has roughly 120 people living on it at any given time. Total – including roughly 30 tourists spread out between the one hotel and the camping areas. There’s virtually nothing there from an economic view, save for the Anegada Reef Hotel where we stayed, a couple of beach bars on the north side, a couple of campgrounds, and a tiny general store. And the airport, of course. It is best known for diving opportunities on the 300 shipwrecks surrounding the reef, while the outstanding bonefish fishery is still just being "discovered" by outsiders. Thus I was the only person bonefishing while we were there. Which is simply unbelievable, given the size and quality of the flats, until one remembers where these flats are: surrounding an island with all of 120 people on it, somewhere in the BVI. If this place was in the Keys, it would be overrun. Bonefish are *unbelievably* strong – it is said a 16" bonefish has three times the strength and endurance of a 24" trout. I don’t doubt it – though none of the bones I caught was anywhere near that small. Even the runt of the trip was over 24 inches long and a good 6 pounds – and that fish stripped out over an honest 180 yards of line and backing on its first run against a strong drag. The largest rainbows I’ve ever caught couldn’t put anywhere near that kind of show even on a mere five weight rod – but these fish were putting the full flex on an 8 weight (a Winston BL5 5pc – lord, what a sweet sweet rod this one is, too). All the fish were caught on white Gotchas, cast to tailing bones and then stripped back with short strokes. After tying a bunch of Charlies, Crab Puffs, Velcro Crabs, Gotchas, and small Clousers, in at least three colors (white, pink, and green) I started and ended with white Gotchas. That is, after I realized the flies weren’t heavy enough relying on the hooks (Mustad 34007 #6 SS) and bead eyes alone, and wrapping on a chunk of copper wire scavenged from a wrecked truck. Like flipping a switch, once I added that weight to the Gotchas, the only way I’d miss a fish was to line it. Once I hooked up with a bone, the fish was off for the proverbial sunset. I was using 12# Mirage for tippet, and set the drag for the better part of that, putting a fine bend in the Winston, and could only hold on for dear life and be ready to gain line when the opportunity arose, all the while trying to keep the fish out of the mangroves and away from coral chunks. Wild. Most of the casts were between 60 and 80 feet out. Sometimes the bones would eat the fly after only a couple of short strips, other times they’d follow the fly halfway back to the boat before taking the fly. Getting rid of 40 feet of loose line in a hurry isn’t all that easy – I got a couple of good scorch marks for my slower efforts (and they hurted so good Anyway…I can’t say enough about that whole experience. It was a total gas that won’t be forgotten soon. The Anegada Reef Hotel is a simple but comfortable place with great food, a wicked beach bar, and is operated by wonderful people. And Dave Vanterpool kept me in fish and in stitches each day – he’s a funny sonofabitch who knows the flats with his eyes closed, and will keep you on bones for as long as your arms can take the pressure. Wrapping it all up: – fishing the flats for bones is just a riot. I might be horribly spoiled by the experience. Only time will tell. I might try fishing the Rapid with a 2 weight to simulate the experience – the Winston BL5 is simply a wonderful rod. This 5 piece casts as nicely as any two piece 7-9 weight I’ve ever used, and it is post-911 airline friendly. It might be cold to state it, but Winston was sitting in the catbird seat on 910. – spotting random bonefish is an acquired skill, but it isn’t that hard to acquire that skill. Good Polaroids are a must, and side shades help, imo. Looking for tails is obvious, looking for plumes of silt a little less so, but beyond that you’re looking for glints and moving shadows. But by the middle of the second morning I often spotted a fish before my guide saw it. – Don’t dismiss the 6 inch deep puddles along the shore. I missed what was probably a ten pound bone by striking too soon on my first shot of the first day. That fish was feeding with the upper third of its body out of the water, damnedest thing I’ve seen in a while. If I had hooked it I’d probably be wishing I’d brought the camera that day… – the Reddington AL9/10 stood up to as much abuse as I could give it. My reeling arm is still sore. The reel is fine. The drag system is the bees knees. – you *can* land a twin engine low-wing aircraft laden with 10 people and gear on a 2500 foot runway, and take off from the same field later. Really! I swear to God! Often! /daytripper (Could’ve fooled me – I thought we were dead meat! =8-O

Response:

Question:

Practical advice snipped… Patience, determination, something the rod can rest on and be turned (by hand or with a slow motor) while the wraps are being applied and while the epoxy dries.

For a "wrapping station," take a straight, flat piece of 1" x 4" to 8" X 4.5′ to 6.5′ (US meas.) board, plywood, MDF, etc, and cut two 6" or so pieces from one end, notch a "V" into one end of each piece, glue or tack (but if tacking, don’t put the tacks in the "V" but on the sides) a couple of layers of felt into the notches.  Attach these to the base board, in an upright position, with the "V" up and the point of the "V" aligned with the centerline of the base board, about 2 1/2′ apart  Take a bolt of sufficient length and diameter to hold your thread spools, but allow it to "free spool," 2 flat "fender"-style washers, and 6 wing nuts (4 to fasten the bolt to the brackets and 2, with the washers, to control tension on the spool), and a couple of "L" brackets, and attach as a thread holder at a mid-point between the two upright notched pieces on the long base board.and voila, a "wrapping station."  If the above doesn’t provide enough detail, or isn’t clear, and anyone wants more details, I’ll be happy to further describe. HTH, R

Response:

There’s a message board at www.vfs.com that has a rodbuilding section.

See http://www.flyshop.com/centers/rodbuilding/ Has step by step instructions.  Good concise book is LA Garcia’s Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod.  Doesn’t really have much more info than the web site but has very good close-up photos.  Dale Clemens’ Advanced Custom Rod Building is the book you’ll want if you really start getting into rod-building. (some of what he says about his own products should be taken with a grain of salt). Good quality blank is a St. Croix SCIV.  If you build your own rods from premium blanks you can figure on saving 40% or so below the factory rod price (with the exception of Winston which sems to charge very high prices for its blanks in comparison with their finished rods). I’ve been pleased with Lamiglas rod blanks (www.anglersworkshop.com is a good place for these). A good value on blanks can often be found when a certain rod is being discontinued. St. Croix, Lamiglas and discontinued Sage blanks have all proven their worth in my experiences as a rod builder.  I did buy a Scott blank for full price.  Expensive but I really love that rod. www.hookhack.com www.anglersworkshop.com www.shofftackle.com www.feather-craft.com Good service all around but the first two are especially friendly and helpful.  I picked up a cosmetic-blem 8′ 4 pc 3 wt Lamiglas from anglersworkshop for $35.  Not even Cabelas can beat a price like that. Mu

Response:

I’m a DIY’er.  Always have been.

me too The last time out on the river, < snipped for brevity—

I came to same conclusion fishing for little grayling and smaller trout-but I went with a 9′ – 4 weight    -what is included when one purchases a rod blank

just that- a blank- 2 piece, 3 piece, or whatever you order.    -what steps are involved in turning it into a rod

a.)spine the rod (i.e. find out what plane it wants to bend in- lots of discussion as to what side the guides go on- on the spine or opposite b.)fit the grip and epoxy it in place c.)fit the reel seat and epoxy it in place d) buff, file the guide feet to eliminate burrs that could damage the blank or create a "crack" in the thread wrap e.)determine the guide spacing and tape or temp wrap the guides in place f.)wrap the guides (do this well – a bad job and your rod works- but its ugly) g.)verify guide alignment and re-align if neeeded h.)verify guide alignment and re-align if neeeded i.)epoxy the wraps j) install tip top k)go fishing Check the VFS (virtual flyshop)- they have an excellent breakdown on the proceedure.  though it takes longer to read than to do it.    -what additional parts/supplies need to be purchased

If you buy a blank- you will need also to buy a tip top, guide set (most manufacturers will provide recommended guide spacing), hook keeper (optional), winding check (also optional) cork grip, reel seat  with spacer, rod winding thread, rod building epoxy for gluing the cork and reel seat in place, and rod wrap epoxy ( I use Flex Cote lite & I like it). Personally-for a first attempt I’d buy a kit- it comes with all of the above, Cabelas, hook and hackle, etc all offer beginner kits and some flexibility as to what blank you want to use.    -what tools/skills are needed

a magnifying light is helpful, some sort of device to cradle the rod while you turn the blank to wrap the threads ( look at various websites – its no prob to build these things- my first cradle was a bent up coat hanger- I built my latest contraption out of plywood with felt cushions)., something to tension the thread (many run the thread between the pages of the phone book and find that this adequately tensions the thread). You will need something to sand the inside of the cork handle to allow it to fit the but of the rod–I use sandpaper taped to a broken section of an old fly rod chucked into a cordless drill  (use garnet paper- not wet/dry–if the sandpaper comes off your mandrel inside the grip, garnet paper will fall apart if you hold it under the faucet- wet or dry just giggles-ask me how I know).  It is really nice to have a low rpm motor to turn the rod while you epoxy the wraps- it allows the epoxy to self level and keeps it from sagging.  I bought just the motor and made a cradle for the rod from cabelas.    -which particular blanks represent a good value

I’ve built a 2 St Croix rods (SCIII & SCIV), both 9′ 6 wts -I like them both- and I’ve built 2 GLoomis GL3 rods that I really like (9′ 4 wt and9′ 5wt). I am about to try a blank from hook and hackle 9′6 8wt Pointers to any printed material would be appreciated too.

print out the instructions from virtual fly shop- its all you need- cabelas kits also come with step by step instructions. I bough a 5.00 book at a local flyshop printed by Guidebrod (I think). Thanks! Bill Bill- its a fun project- not terribly difficult, and you can get a pretty good rod for some savings over a factory- but its yours, built to your specs- whatever grade of seat, guides , etc you want.  go for it. John

Response:

    -what is included when one purchases a rod blank

The rod itself without tiptop, guides, thread, color protector, slow dry epoxy for wraps, cork grip, reel seat, quick dry epoxy (for grip, seat, tiptop). The blank price includes none of that stuff. I’m guessing that some blanks come with sock and tube, but only the high-end rods I believe. Otherwise you have to buy those yourself.     -what steps are involved in turning it into a rod

Assembling the stuff above.     -what additional parts/supplies need to be purchased

The stuff above.     -what tools/skills are needed

Patience, determination, something the rod can rest on and be turned (by hand or with a slow motor) while the wraps are being applied and while the epoxy dries.     -which particular blanks represent a good value

Compared to the cost of a new finished rod, all blanks are pretty much a good value if your time is worth nothing or if you enjoy DIY. If this is going to be a "keeper" rod, you might wanna go to a fly shop and find the best rod to meet your casting style and then order the blank. Closeout rod blanks (Sage SP and LL, for example) are especially a good deal but are sometimes hard to find. My opinion: if you’re gonna buy a no-name blank to save money I think you might as well just consider purchasing an already-finished Cabelas 7.5′ 4wt Stowaway or 3wt Three forks rod for much less money than you could build one. If you really wanna DIY, I’d recommend purchasing an inexpensive blank or even a kit for your first project and treat is as a potential throw-away. Learning how to get the wraps to look good isn’t rocket science but it does take a bit of practice. Pointers to any printed material would be appreciated too.

There’s a message board at www.vfs.com that has a rodbuilding section. Browse the archives and you’ll find way more than you need to know. Be extremely careful, though, because once you build one rod you’ll find that it’s *very, very* hard to stop HTH, –Steve

Response:

Hi- I’m a DIY’er.  Always have been.  As I mentioned recently, I’ve begun tying my own flies, which I find enjoyable.  I like to tell myself that I do these things out of frugality, but I fear that it has more to do with a stubborn notion of "jeez, I’m *sure* I could do that just as well myself!"  Of course, I usually can’t, but I have a good time trying anyhow. The last time out on the river, while landing yet another 10" trout, I got to thinking that perhaps it might be more fun with a lighter weight rod.  I currently fish a 5 weight.  My fishing has yet to find me with any fish larger than 14" on the other end, and I think I’ve had one run line off the reel twice.  I’m thinking about a 3 weight, perhaps 7.5′.  I fish streams more frequently than rivers and normally am more concerned with casting the fly "right there" rather than "waaaay over there". That got me to looking through the catalogs, which, in turn, got me to thinking about rod blanks.  I’ve seen mention of these suckers here on ROFF, but am now more intrigued about what exactly is involved in turning one into a fishable rod. Could someone outline:     -what is included when one purchases a rod blank     -what steps are involved in turning it into a rod     -what additional parts/supplies need to be purchased     -what tools/skills are needed     -which particular blanks represent a good value Pointers to any printed material would be appreciated too. Thanks! Bill

Response:

Hi- am now more intrigued about what exactly is involved in turning one into a fishable rod. Could someone outline:     -what is included when one purchases a rod blank

The blank.  The graphite and nothing but the graphite…. …unless you buy a rod building kit which usually includes all of the parts needed (guides, reel seat, grip, tip, etc).     -what steps are involved in turning it into a rod

It’s actually quite easy. – glue the reel seat on. – glue the cork grip on. – wrap all the guides on – varnish/epoxy the wraps – glue the tip on.     -what additional parts/supplies need to be purchased

All the stuff listed above if you don’t buy a kit. Epoxy and/or varnish, guides, reel seat, thread, cork grip, tip top, hook keeper     -what tools/skills are needed

No special skills are needed.  A rod turner is really handy to have for turning the rod while the guides are drying, but other than that nothing else is absolutely needed.     -which particular blanks represent a good value

Who knows, it’s pretty much up to your values. Try a bunch of finished rods and buy a blank of the rod you like.  Hook and Hackle has some inexpensive blanks, but who knows if you would like them. Have fun,      - Ken

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi- I’m a DIY’er.   That got me to looking through the catalogs, which, in turn, got me to thinking about rod blanks.  I’ve seen mention of these suckers here on ROFF, but am now more intrigued about what exactly is involved in turning one into a fishable rod. Could someone outline:    -what is included when one purchases a rod blank    -what steps are involved in turning it into a rod    -what additional parts/supplies need to be purchased    -what tools/skills are needed    -which particular blanks represent a good value Pointers to any printed material would be appreciated too.

I don’t say this to be rude or flippant, but mainly because you start off the post with the words "I’m a DIY’er." If you are like all DIY’ers I know, you are the type who not only learns "better" and faster by "tinkering" and doing, but enjoys the learning process more when doing that way.  If I’m incorrect about this, post as such, and I’ll offer more specific advice if I have any that seems helpful. That said, if I may:   There are numerous websites, a www.google.com search ought to keep you busy for weeks, and there are quite a few books out there as well, and of course, ROFF is a decent source.  Dale Clemens has a book, which IIRC, is called _Fiberglass Rod Making_ (I don’t have it handy at the moment).  I like his books, but some find them a bit too advanced (and some find it dated) – YMMV, of course.   As to the actual work, go get an assortment of REALLY used cheap rods (like the 1-5USD ones at charity stores, tag/garage sales, etc.) – fly rods, bait-casting rods, spinning rods, whatever.  Just try to get an assortment of types, and try to make sure most have cork handles. Condition, brand, etc. isn’t really important, even broken and incomplete rods are fine.  If you happen to stumble over something that might be a restorable "keeper," just put it away for now.  Once you have several "project rods," find a reference source you like, be it online, a book, or here, and start taking the rods apart, noting how they were assembled.  Then simply reverse the process, finishing the rods and learning while you go.   Use the worst of the bunch first, even broken rods, knowing full well they are simply learning projects.  You’ll likely have specific questions, and feel free to ask them on ROFF.  You’ll find lots of info here, some good, some not-so-good, and some, well, let’s just say it’s there. HTH?? R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks! Bill

Response:

Question:

I’ve heard that big nocturnal browns hit mouse patterns like crazy. I’d love to try that sometime. From the waters I’ve fished, the Beaverhead looks like a good bet for that action. How do you fish a mouse? I suppose you give it a LOT of action. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

I have had a lot of success with big surface lures at night. The target was invariably sea-trout, ( anadromous browns), but a lot of native big browns get caught like this. These fish are hardly ever caught otherwise, and many do not even know of their existence. One excellent pattern is a large black muddler minnow, tied on a tube.  You don

Question:

Technique: Roll Cast: Bring the sinking line on top Back Cast: Just off vertical…allowing the sinking line to lay on the water Forward Cast: The rod loads from picking up the back cast and by adding a haul the line shoots approximately 60/70′ each cast Getting The Fly Down: Strip line off the reel until the fly is

Question:

I am a flyfishing newbie.  Can someone recommend a good video which teaches the basics of flycasting?  I’m mostly going to be fishing saltwater using 9 weight and heavier rods, casting streamers.  I would especially like to learn to "double haul" and "spey cast".  Thank you for your replies.                                                           Spy in Hawaii

Response:

You might try http://www.troutangler.com and ask Zane or Tom about a video. I’m think they could recommend one to you. — happy trails, Mike & Vivian Foate Rocking Horse Ranch Arvada, Wyoming be sure mosey through our online/ranch bookstore and our music CDs and movies shop! http://www.rockinghorseranch.com

Response:

Question:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to the wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I was in a round bucks bag tube. Would a small droque help to keep you side on to the wind.

I use an oval Caddis float tube, and have occasion to run into the wind in the afternoons on the Sierra lakes I frequent.  A couple of years ago I picked up a nylon anchor bag, that comes with several fathoms of 3/8′ nylon rope.  It’s really changed the way I fish lakes. The bag allows me to determine how much weight I need to use depending upon the strength of the wind, but I’ve found that 2-3 fist sized rocks will usually do the job.  Even with rocks, the bag will fit into a pocket on my tube, so I needn’t drag it around as I travel.  If the wind is lighter than anticipated, I drop a rock, and if it picks up, I’m never very far from shore where I can grab another. I’ve attached a one-handed snap-swivel to the rope, and that makes it easy to change the attachment point to different d-rings on the tube, because the attachment point inevitably ends up upwind, although it’s not too difficult to maintain a casting position facing in any direction, once I’m anchored. My fishing buddy, an ex-swabby, says that for any given depth, the anchor line should be increased as the wind increases.  He gave me some sort of naval term for it, which I disremember, but a longer line helps the anchor hold better in heavier winds.  See illustration below. [Image] Many is the time I’ll anchor out in the middle of a lake, and cast upwind.  I’ll let the wind move my fly and I find that this method puts my fly over lots of fish.  When I want to move, I just pull the thing off the bottom, and either kick to a new location, or let the wind take me.  At first I worried that I wouldn’t know when the anchor hit bottom, but I find there’s no mistaking it. Tubing changed the way I fish lakes, and the anchor has changed the way I tube. Anglerboy — Trout fear me, Women want me. http://www.midtown.net/~angler/ Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit <HTML

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITEOne thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to <BRthe wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I <BRwas in a round bucks bag tube. <PWould a small droque help to keep you side on to the wind.</BLOCKQUOTE I use an oval Caddis float tube, and have occasion to run into the wind in the afternoons on the Sierra lakes I frequent.&nbsp; A couple of years ago I picked up a nylon anchor bag, that comes with several fathoms of 3/8′ nylon rope.&nbsp; It’s really changed the way I fish lakes. <PThe bag allows me to determine how much weight I need to use depending upon the strength of the wind, but I’ve found that 2-3 fist sized rocks will usually do the job.&nbsp; Even with rocks, the bag will fit into a pocket on my tube, so I needn’t drag it around as I travel.&nbsp; If the wind is lighter than anticipated, I drop a rock, and if it picks up, I’m never very far from shore where I can grab another. <PI’ve attached a one-handed snap-swivel to the rope, and that makes it easy to change the attachment point to different d-rings on the tube, because the attachment point inevitably ends up upwind, although it’s not too difficult to maintain a casting position facing in any direction, once I’m anchored. <PMy fishing buddy, an ex-swabby, says that for any given depth, the anchor line should be increased as the wind increases.&nbsp; He gave me some sort of naval term for it, which I disremember, but a longer line helps the anchor hold better in heavier winds.&nbsp; See illustration below. <PMany is the time I’ll anchor out in the middle of a lake, and cast upwind.&nbsp; I’ll let the wind move my fly and I find that this method puts my fly over lots of fish.&nbsp; When I want to move, I just pull the thing off the bottom, and either kick to a new location, or let the wind take me.&nbsp; At first I worried that I wouldn’t know when the anchor hit bottom, but I find there’s no mistaking it. <PTubing changed the way I fish lakes, and the anchor has changed the way I tube. <PAnglerboy <P– <BRTrout fear me, <BRWomen want me. <BR<A HREF="http://www.midtown.net/~angler/"http://www.midtown.net/~angler/</A <BR&nbsp;</HTML Content-Type: image/jpeg Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="C:tempnsmailRA.jpeg" <encoded_portion_removed RRQAUUUUAFFFFABRRRQAUUUUAFFFFAH/2Q==

Response:

Dave I have been float tubeing now for 3 years, Although I don’t profess to being an expert I will gladly share with you my thoughts on the technique. No doubt other float tubers will have there own ideas, Inparticular the anglers that fish running waters. With regards to the techniqe I find that a  most satisfactory method to fish is a slow figure of eight but be careful of the all too common takes on the lift. When float tubeing I normally fish with two flies, Some anglers fish with one some with two it,s really what you feel most comfortable with. But bearing in mind you have not got the same luxury of extendable landing nets. This thought should hopefully help you with your selection of leader length. From what I have witnessed rod lengths again vary from angler to angler from say 9′ to 11′,  Again I’m talking still waters. River anglers may go down to 7′ or 8′, I personally use a 101/2′ rod which I find quite adequate. With referance to casting, As with any type of fly fishing you still have to load the rod. Again this depends on individual skills, Having said that many fish I have found are caught short lineing. Retrieving options are as varied as boat or bank angling, My advise on this would be to use them all. On the matter of loseing your rod whilst unhooking a fish or maybe having a sandwich, beer, ect. Most float tubes have two Velcro straps at the front of the tube to secure your rod. Additional tips. 1) Walk into the water backwards when launching. 2) Wear a bouyancy aid. 3) Tie your flippers to your ankles, (Individually of coarse). 4) Don’t drink too much fluid if you have a weak bladder, This can be most embarrassing but you can always blame it on leeking waders. 5) Observe all the safety guidlines set down by The Health and Safety Executive, Details can be obtained from The British Float Tube Association (See below). The British Float Tube Association Secretary Andre’ Russell 24 Merton Avenue, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2JP. Tel: 0116-260-6924. Hope this helps, Let us know how you get on. Tight lines. Tony Connor : Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water : and I need help with the answers to a few questions. : : What techniques are recommended. : : How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. : : In fact what is the best rod length. : : How long a leader. : : How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do : I cast further. : : Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out : recast. : : How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths : when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. : : Any more tips. : : Dave Bolt : UK :

Response:

Dave I have been float tubeing now for 3 years, Although I don’t profess to being an expert I will gladly share with you my thoughts on the technique. No doubt other float tubers will have there own ideas, Inparticular the anglers that fish running waters. With regards to the techniqe I find that a  most satisfactory method to fish is a slow figure of eight but be careful of the all too common takes on the lift. When float tubeing I normally fish with two flies, Some anglers fish with one some with two it,s really what you feel most comfortable with. But bearing in mind you have not got the same luxury of extendable landing nets. This thought should hopefully help you with your selection of leader length. From what I have witnessed rod lengths again vary from angler to angler from say 9′ to 11′,  Again I’m talking still waters. River anglers may go down to 7′ or 8′, I personally use a 101/2′ rod which I find quite adequate. With referance to casting, As with any type of fly fishing you still have to load the rod. Again this depends on individual skills, Having said that many fish I have found are caught short lineing. Retrieving options are as varied as boat or bank angling, My advise on this would be to use them all. On the matter of loseing your rod whilst unhooking a fish or maybe having a sandwich, beer, ect. Most float tubes have two Velcro straps at the front of the tube to secure your rod. Additional tips. 1) Walk into the water backwards when launching. 2) Wear a bouyancy aid. 3) Tie your flippers to your ankles, (Individually of coarse). 4) Don’t drink too much fluid if you have a weak bladder, This can be most embarrassing but you can always blame it on leeking waders. 5) Observe all the safety guidlines set down by The Health and Safety Executive, Details can be obtained from The British Float Tube Association (See below). The British Float Tube Association Secretary Andre’ Russell 24 Merton Avenue, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2JP. Tel: 0116-260-6924. Hope this helps, Let us know how you get on. Tight lines. Tony Connor U.K. Lancashire. : Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water : and I need help with the answers to a few questions. : : What techniques are recommended. : : How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. : : In fact what is the best rod length. : : How long a leader. : : How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do : I cast further. : : Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out : recast. : : How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths : when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. : : Any more tips. : : Dave Bolt : UK :

Response:

: One thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to : the wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I : was in a round bucks bag tube. : I find the wind to be a real pain in the rear, and would be interested : in hearing about any type of anchor used by other belly boaters.  On a big : lake it is hard to maintain a steady position or to determine how fast : your fly is dragging due to the wind. The best way that I have to deal with the wind is to keep at my back. This allows me to slowly kick so that I can maintain postion and steer the tube back into the position I want. It does not take much effrot to do this, and I can stay "put" in any wind that I can cast in. Of course, this is not always possible with some spots that I want to fish. Then, I’ll drift like I would in a canoe and paddle back to drift again. And remember, whitecaps breaking over your casting apron is nature’s way of telling you to knock off the foolishness and head for shore. ;- — Jon Porter

Response:

Sue wants to know, will a big fish tow you round the water. Should we get in some water skiing practice

We have a local lake that the ODF&W (Oregon Dept. of Fish & Wildlife) puts the spawned out hatchery steelhead into each year.  A friend of mine hooked one last spring and spent two hours with it towing him around the lake.  He couldn’t do a thing about it.  And, he ended up taking the fish home for a few meals. — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. At once? One or more up to as many as you can handle. In fact what is the best rod length. Generally longer is better in a tube as you are so close to the water. How long a leader. for a surface presentation 12 feet is about average for sinking lines 5 or 6 feet is averge . How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further. however far away the fish are. You should be able to get closer to fish and hence cast a shorter line. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. I stick the reel end of the rod sort of into my lap or between my knees. Many tubes have velcro bits on either side of the stripping apron lay your rod across these and fasten with the velcro before you start fiddling with fly boxes and cutting leaders Any more tips. Take a piss before you go out and take some water (NO BEER!) with you. I’ve had problems with leg cramps brought on by lack of fuids. Dave Bolt UK Ralph H

 I second the idea to take a piss before you enter the water!!! HEHEHE. Looks kinda silly kicking to the shore only to urinate all over your waders because you can’t pull em down fast enogh…

Response:

Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions.

Just a couple general pointers. 1. Wear a lfe vest. 2. Scout the area and find a nice flat, firm bottom on which to enter. 3. Make sure you’re familiar with your tube. Think about how you’d get out in a problem. 4. Inflate it properly. Not too much and not too little. 5. Keep it close to shore – real close –  until you’re comfortable, and understand your ability. 6. Pee before you begin. 7. Narrow down your  tackle to the bear minimum. 8. Consider doing it on a small body of water on a calm day. Every spring, after a long winter of no physical activity, I get leg cramps my first time or two out. Keep it slow, stop and rest as soon as a cramp begins. Good luck, John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

Response:

Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. In fact what is the best rod length. How long a leader. How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. Any more tips. Dave Bolt UK

Response:

Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod.

At once? One or more up to as many as you can handle. In fact what is the best rod length.

Generally longer is better in a tube as you are so close to the water. How long a leader.

for a surface presentation 12 feet is about average for sinking lines 5 or 6 feet is averge . How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further.

however far away the fish are. You should be able to get closer to fish and hence cast a shorter line. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube.

I stick the reel end of the rod sort of into my lap or between my knees. Many tubes have velcro bits on either side of the stripping apron lay your rod across these and fasten with the velcro before you start fiddling with fly boxes and cutting leaders Any more tips.

Take a piss before you go out and take some water (NO BEER!) with you. I’ve had problems with leg cramps brought on by lack of fuids. Dave Bolt UK

Ralph H

Response:

Question:

Will be at Denali Park entrance area in mid August, any dry fly creeks wadeable within walking or hitching distance that are not loaded with Glacier flour?

Response:

Will be at Denali Park entrance area in mid August, any dry fly creeks wadeable within walking or hitching distance that are not loaded with Glacier flour?

The clearwater side streams have small grayling but you might find them, (the streams,) hard to reach.  I’d take some wet patterns with me too.  One high percentage shot is floating mouse or shrew patterns on the local lakes for pike.  Almost any lake you see in that country holds northern pike.  I’d recommend wire leaders. R. Wood in Alaska

Response:

Question:

Hi guys-    Am going to Borneo on a cave mapping trip in October through December. Anybody know anything about the fisheries there or who to contact? -Ralph —

Response:

Hi guys-   Am going to Borneo on a cave mapping trip in October through December. Anybody know anything about the fisheries there or who to contact? -Ralph —

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months.                 a. wayne harrison

Response:

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months!                 a. wayne harrison

        No. Really.         I’d hate to show up with a box of PMD’s when the centipede hatch was going bonkers.         Seriously though, if anyone has any leads regarding fish or fishing in Borneo I’d appreciate a word. -Me

Response:

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months!                 a. wayne harrison         No. Really.         I’d hate to show up with a box of PMD’s when the centipede hatch was going bonkers.         Seriously though, if anyone has any leads regarding fish or fishing in Borneo I’d appreciate a word.

I do not. RE: Fish in Caves… Once I was in a cave in Colorado that had running water in it (on an extended backpacking rip)…it was FULL of brookies…wierd little huge jawed brookies…that would hit anything. We ate a lot of them… We kept ‘em alive on a stringer…bonk one…cut off the head…insert weenie stick along spine and cook like a marshmallow.  DELICIOUS ! TimW

Response:

Try contacting  Hock-Heng Pro Fishing in Singapore , they are pretty knowledgable from what I remember . Unfortunately I do not have their contact information anymore , but remember the name . G

Response:

Question:

Why not deal with a local fly shop. That way you get personal service and help the local economy. You never know what the loss of a local shop means until you lose one that has been undercut on prices by one of the large mail order chains. I dont own a shop but our area recently lost one and now every one realises what we had but have now lost. Jack

Response:

This is gonna sound like a minor problem, given everything else we have to deal with. But ya know how a little something, if left to it’s own accord, tends to grow and gnaw at you, just bugging the crap out of you until you have to bitch to somebody. Last year around this time, I called L.L. Bean’s 800 number and asked for their fly fishing catalog. They said they would send it when it was done. Couple months later, nothing, so I called again. "Oh sure, send it right out." Few more months…nothing. So I filled out a form from a magazine. Nothing. Month later, sent my own postcard requesting the catalog. Month or so, nothing. Called again. "Gee, don’t know what the problem is. We’ll get one right out to you." Needless to say it’s one year on, and I’ve received every stinking catalog those people put out except for the one I want. At this point I’m disinclined to buy from them, I just want the catalog to chalk up a moral victory, and add it to my growing collection. Have I done something wrong? Am I not the L.L. Bean type and they know it? Have they checked my credit rating before sending the catalog? Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know anybody at L.L. Bean with some weight? Thanks for letting me waste bandwidth. I do feel much better Roger Backlar

Response: