Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » North Florida/Southern Georgia

North Florida/Southern Georgia

Question:

I will be on a business trip next week in the Northern Florida area between Jacksonville & Tallahassee and into some parts of Southern Georgia.  If all goes right I will have a day or two of free time on the company and would like to find some areas to go fishing. Can any of you out there direct me to someplace where I might have reasonable chances of catching fish?  What about some Fly or Tackle Shops that I should go to for supplies or advice? Thanks in advance Rob L

Response:

I will be on a business trip next week in the Northern Florida area between Jacksonville & Tallahassee and into some parts of Southern Georgia.  If all goes right I will have a day or two of free time on the company and would like to find some areas to go fishing. Can any of you out there direct me to someplace where I might have reasonable chances of catching fish?  What about some Fly or Tackle Shops that I should go to for supplies or advice? Thanks in advance Rob L

If you’re interested in large Florida bass, try Lake Jackson, just north of Tallahassee and south of Thomasville.  If you are interested in going down to the coast, try Apalachicola or Cedar Key. HTH, R

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » light canoe for fishing?

light canoe for fishing?

Question:

I use a Madriver Tahoe(14Ft). Weighs 52 pounds-easy enough to handle by myself. This is a recreational canoe-wide,and with good primary stability- really good for trips with small children and dogs.

Response:

can somebody recomend a good canoe 12′-15′ long and really light under $600 primarily used for fishing thanks chris

Response:

can somebody recomend a good canoe 12′-15′ long and really light under $600 primarily used for fishing thanks chris

Chris,  You want some initial stability…to give you that casting platform. I’d go with a light kevlar or some kind of composite in a wide hull. I love dynamically designed hulls, but I just haven’t paddled anything       lightweight in a medium to narrow width with the secondary stability that’s necessary to avoid hair-raising adventures with any sudden movements or just wind.  Kevlar, or anything else that would be light is just not cheap_$$$, I’d go the USED route.  Be energetic in your search…and you should find something via the web. $.02, Steve

Response:

can somebody recomend a good canoe 12′-15′ long and really light under $600 primarily used for fishing thanks chris

I use an Old Town Pack, 12 foot long, 33 pounds, on lakes and slow rivers.  New they are near $600, but I got mine used for <$300, including a lovely bent shaft paddle.  I have not had a problem with primary or secondary stability for fishing (YMMV).  I use it for both casting and trolling, while my husband has used it for flyfishing (but not as successfully).  I have found that me, 6 Ft or shorter rods work best in small canoes or kayaks.  Get a nice anchor and a brush anchor too.  Enjoy. Pam in Iowa

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Reel » Open letter to Maine Clave attendees

Open letter to Maine Clave attendees

Question:

If I were the judge I’ld dismiss the first three and sentence you to tying two dozen EHK dry flies and one years probation on 4, 5 and 6. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Gentlemen, It has been brought to my attention that I may have commited numerous and severe crimes against the sport of fly fishing during my attendance at the Maine Clave. In my current state of poor health I have little recollection of the events of last week (although I hope in due time that my memory will unfade) so I cannot confirm nor deny these allegations. However, it seems that I have been charged with using the following: (1) a plastic fly rod (2) a disc drag fly reel (3) a landing net (4) one–sometimes even two–foam strike indicators (5) one–sometimes even two–splitshot (6) one–sometimes even two–nymphs, beadhead no less As I have no memory of these heinous alleged indescretions, I plan to plead an "I-have-no-recollection-of-that-incident-your-honor" defense. However, just because that line of defense has worked wonderfully for U.S. Presidents past and present does give me confidence. Therefore, gentlemen, I ask you to please, *please* stand up in my defense and deny these ugly charges. yr obt svt –Steve

Response:

Gentlemen, It has been brought to my attention that I may have commited numerous and severe crimes against the sport of fly fishing during my attendance at the Maine Clave.

        let’s just say the dynamite cap incident will remain "our little secret"… wayno

Response:

I wasn’t even there and want to go on record as stating you’re likely guilty as hell.  I want a special procecutor appointed!  Reno?! — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

Steve Zimmerman writes: (1) a plastic fly rod (2) a disc drag fly reel (3) a landing net (4) one–sometimes even two–foam strike indicators (5) one–sometimes even two–splitshot (6) one–sometimes even two–nymphs, beadhead no less

 (1) I saw a wooden fly rod and a graphite one also.  No plastic. (2)  Drag reels are fine. (3)  Landing nets are fine as long as it has the net like you used.  The nylon rope ones you see in Wally World suck. (4)  Nothing wrong with using a strike indicator. (5)  Try to keep it to one split shot.  It works better. (6)  If you know what nymph to use, you don’t need two.  I told you what nymph to use.  Case closed!  <g Dave

Response:

Paul Goodwin writes: If I were the judge I’ld dismiss the first three and sentence you to tying two dozen EHK dry flies and one years probation on 4, 5 and 6.

ROFLMAO.  I seem to remember you with two of those sticky foam strike indicators, a giant grasshopper (also a strike indicator), and two of the biggest and uggliest weighted nymphs I’ve ever seen. <g Dave LaCourse

Response:

I tried nymphing but I didn’t inhale.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul Goodwin writes: If I were the judge I’ld dismiss the first three and sentence you to tying two dozen EHK dry flies and one years probation on 4, 5 and 6. ROFLMAO.  I seem to remember you with two of those sticky foam strike indicators, a giant grasshopper (also a strike indicator), and two of the biggest and uggliest weighted nymphs I’ve ever seen. <g Dave LaCourse

Response:

I tried nymphing but I didn’t inhale.

neither did any of the fish.  :) Peter

Response:

[allegations snipped] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -(1) a plastic fly rod (2) a disc drag fly reel (3) a landing net (4) one–sometimes even two–foam strike indicators (5) one–sometimes even two–splitshot (6) one–sometimes even two–nymphs, beadhead no less Therefore, gentlemen, I ask you to please, *please* stand up in my defense and deny these ugly charges. yr obt svt –Steve

I am willing to stand as a character reference for you however you should be warned that should you ever travel to Canada, this list of charges will no doubt result in you being assigned to the "dangerous offender" category and the sentence will probably be life – nymphing first current for suckers. (ask Louie for help – he’s good at it.) Peter

Response:

Peter Charles: I am willing to stand as a character reference for you however you should be warned that should you ever travel to Canada, this list of charges will no doubt result in you being assigned to the "dangerous offender" category and the sentence will probably be life – nymphing first current for suckers. (ask Louie for help – he’s good at it.) Peter

LOL.  That is the first one I have caught in any of the currents.  They are quite prevalent in wing dam pool.  They must move down the currents preparing to go into pondy for the winter. Louie

Response:

Gentlemen, It has been brought to my attention that I may have commited numerous and severe crimes against the sport of fly fishing during my attendance at the Maine Clave. In my current state of poor health I have little recollection of the events of last week (although I hope in due time that my memory will unfade) so I cannot confirm nor deny these allegations. However, it seems that I have been charged with using the following: (1) a plastic fly rod (2) a disc drag fly reel (3) a landing net (4) one–sometimes even two–foam strike indicators (5) one–sometimes even two–splitshot (6) one–sometimes even two–nymphs, beadhead no less As I have no memory of these heinous alleged indescretions, I plan to plead an "I-have-no-recollection-of-that-incident-your-honor" defense. However, just because that line of defense has worked wonderfully for U.S. Presidents past and present does give me confidence. Therefore, gentlemen, I ask you to please, *please* stand up in my defense and deny these ugly charges. yr obt svt –Steve

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » new to NG

new to NG

Question:

Hello to all.  I subscribed to this NG two or so weeks ago and want to ask a question as I’m not sure if it’s OK.  I’ve seen some mixed responses to similar threads so I figured I better ask first. Q –  is it OK to list a rod for sale? Seems like a great NG with plenty of knowledgeable participants.  I can certainly learn allot here as I’m fairly new to the sport (about 3 years actively flyfishing).  I spend 80% of my flyfishing time on 2-3 rivers (the size of which would make most folks outside of NJ call them streams) in northwestern NJ.  The other 20% on lakes and ponds with my 4 yr. old son and 3yr old daughter and occasionally a trip up to the Beaverkill or Willowomac with a friend who introduced my to this great sport. Well, that’s it, don’t want to overdo the intro (most likely already did though). Regards to all. Natty

Response:

got dreadlocks?              john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hello to all.  I subscribed to this NG two or so weeks ago and want to ask a question as I’m not sure if it’s OK.  I’ve seen some mixed responses to similar threads so I figured I better ask first. Q –  is it OK to list a rod for sale? Seems like a great NG with plenty of knowledgeable participants.  I can certainly learn allot here as I’m fairly new to the sport (about 3 years actively flyfishing).  I spend 80% of my flyfishing time on 2-3 rivers (the size of which would make most folks outside of NJ call them streams) in northwestern NJ.  The other 20% on lakes and ponds with my 4 yr. old son and 3yr old daughter and occasionally a trip up to the Beaverkill or Willowomac with a friend who introduced my to this great sport. Well, that’s it, don’t want to overdo the intro (most likely already did though). Regards to all. Natty

Response:

First of all, your name rox. Q –  is it OK to list a rod for sale?

If you start the title with "FS" or "For Sale" and only put it up once you should be fine.  If it is relatively rare or valuable, yet priced ridiculously low out of ignorance, just email me first with the info and I’ll tell you if you should post it here…. I can certainly learn allot here as I’m fairly new to the sport (about 3 years actively flyfishing).  I spend 80% of my flyfishing time on 2-3 rivers (the size of which would make most folks outside of NJ call them streams) in northwestern NJ.  The other 20% on lakes and ponds with my 4 yr. old son and 3yr old daughter and occasionally a trip up to the Beaverkill or Willowomac with a friend who introduced my to this great sport.

Ummm, I was told there would be no math…. :-) Regards, Jeff

Response:

Hello to all.  I subscribed to this NG two or so weeks ago and want to ask a question as I’m not sure if it’s OK.  I’ve seen some mixed responses to similar threads so I figured I better ask first. Q –  is it OK to list a rod for sale?

        although no one would dare speak for the whole of this bunch of anarchists and nut cases, i will hazard the opinion that a few non-commercial offers of sale would not be considered bad form, even by fortenberry. wayno

Response:

Thx for the compliment, tip and offer….nothing rare or extraordinary though. Will follow your advice. Thx again  :-) Natty

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First of all, your name rox. Q –  is it OK to list a rod for sale? If you start the title with "FS" or "For Sale" and only put it up once you should be fine.  If it is relatively rare or valuable, yet priced ridiculously low out of ignorance, just email me first with the info and I’ll tell you if you should post it here…. I can certainly learn allot here as I’m fairly new to the sport (about 3 years actively flyfishing).  I spend 80% of my flyfishing time on 2-3 rivers (the size of which would make most folks outside of NJ call them streams) in northwestern NJ.  The other 20% on lakes and ponds with my 4 yr. old son and 3yr old daughter and occasionally a trip up to the Beaverkill or Willowomac with a friend who introduced my to this great sport. Ummm, I was told there would be no math…. :-) Regards, Jeff

Response:

LOL…don’t I wish!  More like razor stubble. Natty

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – got dreadlocks?              john

Response:

<snip….mainly because somebody shoulda done it to Cooper a long, long time ago Near as I can figure it Hawkeye you must be somewhere on the wrong side of about 220 by now.  Gettin a bit long in the tooth for fly fishing…or just about anything else for that matter.  How’s about I just send you my address and I’ll take all that stuff off your hands? Meanwhile, welcome to ROFF and pay no mind to the bitey things in here……ain’t none of it real. Wolfgang who WOULD have written a treatise on "Fennimore Cooper’s Literary Offenses" if that hack Clemens hadn’t beat me to it!

Response:

Welcome to ROFF.  One off posts advertising private gear for sale are generally accepted without demur. Although you may be offered KY jelly from some participants, usually with explicit instructions ! :)  Don

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » How to tie? Royal scaramouche and hair-wing jamoke

How to tie? Royal scaramouche and hair-wing jamoke

Question:

Since Tony seems to be here for a bit I thought we could help him out with some flies for his local fishing back behind the body shop. I’m not sure how these would be tied though so I figured I had better get help. I imagine the Royal Scaramouche would have some red like a mugging victim, an extended body made out of a Coney Island dog, and a general silhouette like the universal New York City hand salute. Clearly the hair-wing jamoke would have a down wing tied with cat hair. Any suggestions? Cheers. Jon

Response:

I have been reading all this Germuga business and have become somewhat intrigued.  I am also a western New Yorker and have the sneaking suspicion I know this guy.  Tony – you said you have fished the Oatka.  Do you drive a maroon El Camino?  I saw a guy once there that speaks the way you type.  Any how, I feel this newsgroup deserves its own "local" pattern.  I present to you all my interpretation of the "Royal Scaramouche".  It is done in green, white, and red like the Italian flag, and is ribbed in gold like the thick neck chain that Tony surely wears.  Anybody want to attempt a hairwing Jamoke?

Pete C I think you guys is making fun of me, but its still a cool looking fly.   I like the Italian part and it looks easy to tie.  Im gonna whip up a mess of em Next time I see some guacamole on the stream doing bum stuff Ill give em one of these and say a scaramouche like you deserves one of these royal scaramouches. A couple matters I wanted to address here that you asked me.   I did use to drive one of them El Caminos and it was sort of that color but it was custome paint I did it myself.  It had one of them  small block 350s with an Edelbrock manifold and holley carb and Hooker headers and downpipes and one of them special high stall torque convertors in the tranny and a four eleven rear end with positraction.  I put all that stuff in myself so it was a custom Tony G special.  I could smoke the tires on that thing for a hundred feet or more.  It really screwed. So maybe you did see me.  I dont know.  But I got rid of it.  It was gettin old and it was getting a bad case of car cancer and it was taking too much of my valuble time there to keep on the road and running proprely and looking sharp. My cars have gotta be just so and I cant be seen in no rolling crap can it would be bad for my business.  So now its sittin out back of the shop and I take parts off of it now an then for other cars Im working on.   Cause Im fishing and huntin all the time I got me one of them new Dodge Ram 4 X 4’s pickups with the V10 and the sixteen inch wheels with them big ass tires.   Its bright red and only about 6 months old an I havent added to much to it except for a roll bar with about a zillion of them KC 100 watt halogen lights on it.  I love zappin some jamoke with em when they dont dim their high beams when Im driving at night.  You better believe that gets there attention all right.   Its not as fast as my old el camino but it gets the job done and I get me lots of complements when Im out an about.  It sits way up high so I feel like a royal scarmouche myself drving it around.  Heh. The other thing is I dont wear me no gold jewelry or any other kind of jewely for that matter except maybe on a holdiay or special day like that.   I work with too much machinery all day long to be risking getting no digits caught in nothing.  I could lose a member or somethin if I had a lot of crap danglin off of me. Well,  I gotta go.  I dont got no more time and its gonna take a few minutes to put this on the other boards.  I gotta hit the rack sos I can get out to the shop early in the AM. Thanks for the fly pattern MEOW!!!!!!! Tony G.  3133t from Medial Catastrophy and intitated by Crisis . THIS POSTED IN ALT.FAN.KARL-MALDEN.NOSE, ALT.ALIEN.VAMPIRE.FLONK.FLONK.FLONK, REC.OUTDOORS.FISHING.FLY  REC.OUTDOORS FISHING.BASS, ALT.FISHING BOYCOTT THE COLEMAN STORE FOR CENSHORSHIP www.rochesterweb.com/colemans   a.f.k-m.n.n (newbie)number of 2.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Breathable waders

Breathable waders

Question:

 I’m curious about the Cabelas Dry Plus – the article implied that the neoprene feet are too thin and will invite leaks. Has anyone had a problem with this? Sam

I have used the Cabelas Dry Plus waders for a year now and I have not had any problems. I tend to do a lot of walking when out on the stream and they have held up great. They have neoprene knee pads which is nice.  They also come with a patch kit that includes the same material that the waders are made out of. If you get a leak you just iron this material into the waders – kind of melts together on the inside. Good luck, Greg

Response:

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I picked up the article on breathable waders in Fly Rod and Reel, and it was pretty informative. As always, there’s a tradeoff – between breathability, durability, and price. Find a match for any two of the variables and it might not match the third one. According to the article, Orvis Clearwaters sound the best for breathability/price but sacrifice puncture resistance. (But the warranty is nice.) The Hodgemans sounded like a good deal in that price range also. I’m curious about the Cabelas Dry Plus – the article implied that the neoprene feet are too thin and will invite leaks. Has anyone had a problem with this? Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There appears to be two typesof breathable waders; the gortex at $300 plus, and the Orvis type, now carried by many companies, at $129 to $160.  Orvis was first out with these they were mostly a dark green color.  I had a pair that worked fine until I lent them to my wife.  Then they developed  three holes in the seat.  Orvis replaced them free of charge.  LL Bean carries them and they guarantee there goods  beyond most companies. I liked them but they are too cold for float tubing, even with long underwear. JackKowalski e t… Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

There is an article on breathable waders in the current issue of "Fly Rod & Reel".  They seemed to be most impressed with the Hodgman’s of the Cabela’s, Hodgman’s and Orvis. JS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – test t… Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

very well made. writes: I’m wondering how well they’d hold up when float tubing. I won’t be doing a whole lot of float tubing, but I wonder whether I should get a cheap pair of neoprenes for the purpose. They hold up well. Wayne Knight Geneva IL

Response:

1) Where can I find Orvis Clearwaters for $129? I have only seen them at the listed $165.

There is an ad in this month’s Fly Fisherman.  It seems that Orvis has had an "official" price reduction on the Clearwater Breathable.  All Orvis dealers should now be honoring this price.

Response:

Anyone try the new Redington breatheable waders? I’ve seen them in a catalog only but they sound like a great deal. Four year unconditional warranty and $169. I’d like to see how they compare to the really expensive Simms. Thanks Michael L – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

I’m wondering how well they’d hold up when float tubing. I won’t be doing a whole lot of float tubing, but I wonder whether I should get a cheap pair of neoprenes for the purpose.

They hold up well. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

I, too, have been considering entry level breathable waders.  In addition to the Hodgeman, Cabela’s and Orvis Clearwater, I am considering the LL Bean Streamlight Breathable Stockingfoot waders. Several comments/questions I have to Bill Kiene and others: 1) Where can I find Orvis Clearwaters for $129? I have only seen them at the listed $165.

Unicoi Outfitters in Helen, GA  had them at $129 when I was up there yesterday. — Charlie…

Response:

There appears to be two typesof breathable waders; the gortex at $300 plus, and the Orvis type, now carried by many companies, at $129 to $160.  Orvis was first out with these they were mostly a dark green color.  I had a pair that worked fine until I lent them to my wife.  Then they developed  three holes in the seat.  Orvis replaced them free of charge.  LL Bean carries them and they guarantee there goods  beyond most companies. I liked them but they are too cold for float tubing, even with long underwear. JackKowalski

t… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

test t… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

I am excited that breathables will be coming down in price, but our top selling

Jeez Bill, at $349.00 those Simms Guide Models had better guide me to some VERY nice holes! 8^} — To reply, please remove "hormel" from my address.  Diapers and politicians should be changed regularly,  often for the same reason.

Response:

I, too, have been considering entry level breathable waders.  In addition to the Hodgeman, Cabela’s and Orvis Clearwater, I am considering the LL Bean Streamlight Breathable Stockingfoot waders. Several comments/questions I have to Bill Kiene and others: 1) Where can I find Orvis Clearwaters for $129? I have only seen them at the listed $165. 2) I like the Orvis and LL Bean models because they come in both men’s and women’s cuts/sizes.  When I buy, I plan to get two pair; one for myself and one for my wife. 3) I am concerned about the lack of knee protection (for we clumsy) on the Clearwater and Hodgeman waders.  Orvis, of course, has the excellent warranty.  But both the Cabela’s and the Streamlight waders have reinforced knees and LL Bean’s warranty is even better. I am only trying to get more information to make a decision.  Any and all comments would be appreciated. Jonathan Williamson

Response:

I am excited that breathables will be coming down in price, but our top selling Jeez Bill, at $349.00 those Simms Guide Models had better guide me to some VERY nice holes! 8^}

I’m planning to buy a pair of Simms. (Fortunately, I can get them wholesale). I’m wondering how well they’d hold up when float tubing. I won’t be doing a whole lot of float tubing, but I wonder whether I should get a cheap pair of neoprenes for the purpose. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Response:

Here’s yet another equipment question: This topic has probably been covered here previously, but I’m looking for a breathable wader for hot spring/fall fishing in the Southwest. Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make a breathable wader in the $160 price range. Does anyone have any feedback they could give me about quality of these two, how well they’ve held up over time, etc? Thanks, Sam

Hi Sam, I am sure that Hodgeman and Cabela’s both make good waders and stand behind them, but Orvis has the hottest deal on entry level breathables( anything under $200) Their Clearwater stocking foot breathable chest waders come with a neoprene foot and suspenders for $129. They also have a prorated 4 year warranty. I am excited that breathables will be coming down in price, but our top selling Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Alaska Help

Alaska Help

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have the opportunity to teach up outside of Bethel.  I’m very much aware of the difference in geography and the general feel of the area. I’d be interested in any input from someone who has been there as to what sorts of outdoors activities can be done there.  Thanks. well, subsistence outdoor activities (hunting, fishing, gathering wild plant foods and medicines) are the culture in the area.  i mean those folks really do live off the land, and they usually waste absolutely nothing.  i mean that when they trap for muskrats, they not only sell the fur, they make muskrat soup and the meal is not considered over until everyone has cracked the bones and sucked out the marrow.  then the trapper returns the cleaned bones to the area where the animal was killed, to honor its spirit. this culture has very different values than you are probably used to, and a world view that is alien to most white folks.  if you are really considering moving to the YK delta to teach, you should immediately cross-cultural communication, a video of a college lecture series by father michael oleksa, a russian orthodox priest married to a yup’ik woman from aniak.   from a strictly "sports" point of view, this is a very wet river delta area, very rich in fish and wildlife.  small boats and float planes are the primary means of transportation in summer, and snowmobiles in the winter.  the kuskokwin and its tributaries are the primary transportation corridors. you’re starting a little late to move this year, because most folks order their winter groceries early in the spring so they can be delivered by boat during the summer. be prepared for *severe* culture shock.

I once had a chance to teach in Barrow.  But I turned it down and stayed in Kenai area instead.  I had heard it can be tough for a non-native to function up there, that it’s a very closed place to "foreigners" (although some of my friends love it out in the bush).  In the end, eventhough I love the outdoors, "cross-cultural" experiences, and am a fanatical wilderness camper, I just didn’t want to live somewhere where I couldn’t get in my car and leave once in the while on the weekend.  You do have to be willing to try to live there, get to know people, and don’t think just because you make a lot of money that you can afford to fly out of there anytime you want. I do recall that once in a biology class, we were dissecting cats and a Yup’ik girl said something to the effect, "Why don’t we do seals?"  She said she could cut up a seal in fairly short period of time (I don’t remember what it was).  To which I replied, "If we cut up a seal in the lab, we won’t be able to eat it since the lab is full of chemicals and stuff.  We’d have to throw it away."  She thought that was a pretty good answer. I now work with, at least, a couple of Apache students every year.  One of the most difficult things to get them to participate in the class.  They don’t talk much.  Although I admire the fact that, unlike whites, Apaches only talk when they really have something to say, don’t feel the need to impress everyone by being clever or running their gums constantly, and they spend a lot of time listening, it does kind of make white man educational methods a bit difficult to use. My most interesting native job prospect turned out to not be interesting.  I once applied for a job on the south rim of the Grand Canyon.  My thinking was that I could be in the boonies, maybe get to know some of the natives, but still be able to get away once in the while on the weekends.  I had a telephone interview which seemed to go pretty well.  But when I got out a map, I couldn’t find the town on it.  So I called back for that information, got it, and hung up.  About 30 minutes laters, a member of the search committee called me back and in a serious voice said, "The committee feels that there is something you need to know about this town.  Many of the people here are polygamous Mormons.  Your wife won’t be able to work here and you will probably want to live in St. George, UT which a more normal town."   Well, I decided I wasn’t quite that adventurous.  However, if either Barrow or northern Arizona call again, I think I’m ready for it. Quotes of the Week:   I have learned that the swiftest traveler is he that goes afoot." "To make a railroad round the world available to all mankind is equivalent to grading the whole surface of the planet." Walden, Henry David Thoreau

Response:

I have the opportunity to teach up outside of Bethel.  I’m very much aware of the difference in geography and the general feel of the area. I’d be interested in any input from someone who has been there as to what sorts of outdoors activities can be done there.  Thanks.

well, subsistence outdoor activities (hunting, fishing, gathering wild plant foods and medicines) are the culture in the area.  i mean those folks really do live off the land, and they usually waste absolutely nothing.  i mean that when they trap for muskrats, they not only sell the fur, they make muskrat soup and the meal is not considered over until everyone has cracked the bones and sucked out the marrow.  then the trapper returns the cleaned bones to the area where the animal was killed, to honor its spirit. this culture has very different values than you are probably used to, and a world view that is alien to most white folks.  if you are really considering moving to the YK delta to teach, you should immediately cross-cultural communication, a video of a college lecture series by father michael oleksa, a russian orthodox priest married to a yup’ik woman from aniak.   from a strictly "sports" point of view, this is a very wet river delta area, very rich in fish and wildlife.  small boats and float planes are the primary means of transportation in summer, and snowmobiles in the winter.  the kuskokwin and its tributaries are the primary transportation corridors. you’re starting a little late to move this year, because most folks order their winter groceries early in the spring so they can be delivered by boat during the summer. be prepared for *severe* culture shock. Unsolicited commercial email to my corrected address is subject to prosecution under 47 USC 227(b)(1).  E-mail and Reply-to disguised to prevent Spam and to suggest that SPAMBOTs which harvest sigfiles will like replies Virtual Juneau          http://www.alaska.net/~dpharris

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snip  and Reply-to disguised to prevent Spam and to suggest that SPAMBOTs which harvest sigfiles will like replies Virtual Juneau          http://www.alaska.net/~dpharris

Dennis ‘hit the nail on the head’! By the way…which village is it? Steve

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I have the opportunity to teach up outside of Bethel.  I’m very much aware of the difference in geography and the general feel of the area. I’d be interested in any input from someone who has been there as to what sorts of outdoors activities can be done there.  Thanks.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Tying » Fly Tying Books

Fly Tying Books

Question:

Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME

Response:

Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman.

Hi Tim, Kauffman’s fly tying books are each devoted exclusively to either dries or nymphs – your local library is correct. He is the author of a pattern "directory" that includes both dries and nymphs entitled "Fly Patterns of Umpqua Feather Merchants". Best,   Alan.   Alan Barnard   Kiene’s Fly Shop   Sacramento, California   WWW Fly Tyer   http://www.ns.net/~barnard

Response:

Tim, Try www.amazon.com — Donn Westervelt 72633,342 CIS

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: Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a : beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet : flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my : local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by : Mr. Kaufman. Yup.  He has a new dry fly book, and a revised version of his nymph book. When I had to choose two (ONLY TWO) books on tying flies, to learn from, these were the two.  The illustrations are in color, and are very clear…with tricky points clearly described.  He discusses standard techniques fully.  The patterns are laid out in a "progressive" order so that you can learn quite a bit by tying each pattern in order (I’m about 2/3 of the way through both books).  Or you can jump around to your favorite pattern.  There’s a pattern directory in the back, listing many patterns not covered in the text WITH color PICTURES.  Also, each chapter has a little one or two page story having something to do with that pattern.  ALSO, there are excellent discussions of materials and tools. I now own FIVE books on fly tying: Talleur’s intro book (for my son), two books of patterns, and Kaufman’s two newer books. I strongly recommend these two books for anyone learning to tie flies. — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster —–BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—– Version: 2.6.2 mQCNAzDtvLEAAAEEAKAC21G2Be0K0DMgjLpxrwLmsYfCz8rWcfgyABjr3Ryfk1dO nV7fFFpUF3xohR7die+/B2V9oqRQzTLeSF2ECKlsTY/yUyw2kn+P2ju1umh4Fwzd cVTvc+H69q1+Ft3kmw/PE0Pan+g0PUGGJ43stw3q4OgBHdixbRd/f9giJFDxAAUR tCZKYW1lcyBBLiBGb3N0ZXIgPGZvc3RlckBjcy51aWRhaG8uZWR1PokAlQMFEDD8 ReEXf3/YIiRQ8QEBFrAD/2AFuRWcD/3MENC3qJMC/Or1qxknjkK7Uv+TDf2LHPOY GHBbG9PyWuXQ8of0Dd+JYwf/tzlO9Yk1s1zTdikfriak21FW0bCokxDIhA3myppZ IZDWVA9CyvDYHuP5Ii1NkBvocab813JzDLZA+0iVN5sebGb9zSXR4Za47hlriHeP =RDHK —–END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—–

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Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME

Here’s a list of Randall Kaufmann’s books (I think it’s complete): American Nymph Fly Tying Manual (1975) Bonefishing with a Fly (1992) *The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual (1986) *Tying Dry Flies (1992) (there is also a revised edition) *Tying Nymphs (1992)         *= in-print Andy   A. M. Rapach–Angling Books Rare, Collectible & Used Angling      Books Bought and Sold <A HREF="http://www.westol.com/~andmr/fishbks"</A

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Randall Kaufmann has authored or coauthored several books covering fly tying and fly fishing for a variety of species. I think two books best suited for the beginning or advanced tyer are; Tying Nymphs, and Tying Dries. Randall is an excellent tier or tyer and has a gift of concise, easily understood writing. Vic’s Fly-By-Night Too much time spent tying Not enough fishing

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I got my first book on fly tying from the Federation of Fly Fishers. It is called an Introduction to Fly Tying by Al Beatty and Bob Lay. It only cost $2.00 plus S&H. I have since purchased a couple of videos by Al and they were really detailed. I don’t have his phone number but he often posts to this group. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Someone recommended Randall Kaufman’s books as good reference material for a beginner.  I was under the impression that he has a book with both dry and wet flys.  Does anyone know if such a book exists (it doesn’t, according to my local library)? I would be interested in knowing the title of any/all books by Mr. Kaufman. Tim Obrey/ME Here’s a list of Randall Kaufmann’s books (I think it’s complete): American Nymph Fly Tying Manual (1975) Bonefishing with a Fly (1992) *The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual (1986) *Tying Dry Flies (1992) (there is also a revised edition) *Tying Nymphs (1992)    *= in-print Andy  A. M. Rapach–Angling Books Rare, Collectible & Used Angling     Books Bought and Sold <A HREF="http://www.westol.com/~andmr/fishbks"</A

Add to the list: Lake Fishing with a Fly (1984) (co-authored with Ron Cordes) Fly Patterns of Umpqua Feather Merchants (1995) Tight lines Jay Whitworth

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rod » Estimating Fish's Weight?

Estimating Fish's Weight?

Question:

writes:  Can someone give me a guide to estimating the weight of trout in  the 12-24 inch range. Just a guestimate chart would do. I know  there are a lot of variables. Many thanks.  –  Scott Branyan  Rogers, AR

<grin NZ limits restrict us to fish over 13" down here, so I ain’t gonna be of much assistance I am afraid. One of the more important factors down here is taken by a Condition factor variable, taking into account weight, length and girth. So most *Serious* kiwi anglers don’t like to take those fish below anything less than say 4-5lb. We have an extremely active conservation movement in most areas considered "Trophy" catchments, whereby one can donate the fish for hatchery purposes when exceeding Condition factors of in excess 80-85. This is achieved by way of permanent nets suspended below rubber tyre tubes anchored near the more popular spots, that or the many hatchery traps found a short distance upstream from a lake outlet. The movement towards catch and release in NZ has found great support in recent years, with only the minimum being taken for domestic purposes. You may be interested to know, that it is illegal to sell, buy or market Trout in NZ, other than by specific virtue of the Internal Affairs department, mainly for Tourism purposes. Back to your question however, ummmmm … no sorry <grin Just thought you might be interested in a different perspective . <smile. Regards .. Tim.D Wellington, New Zealand.

Response:

 <<Can someone give me a guide to estimating the weight of trout in the 12-24 inch range. … Hi Scott- I have a chart that will figure the weight of any trout you’ll ever catch. *it’s free for the asking* On the back it has a lot of equally cool info. We include it in our student handouts…. *don’t be bashful, I encourage you to use them (rather than weigh the fish till its dead)*

I just guesstimate the length of the fish (relative to a mark on the rod) then (length in inches)cubed/1870 ~ pounds…. crude but works ok for typical stream/river trout this puts 12" at 1lb and 24inch at 7lb (perhaps high unless the fishery is rich and the trout are heavy- )    If you have a club and want a bunch just ask! (don’t worry. it’s free and we won’t put you on our perpetual mailing list of fly fishing junk mail unless you specifically request it!)    Tight Lines, Ralph —

our page at http://www.insideout.com/current/s_fish.htm) BTW Ralph, I really like your book! Mike

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kumlien) writes: I have been told by fisheries biologists that the following formula works well for computing weight of any species of fish.  I once met British Columbia steelhead biologist who told me they use this formula for weight estimates for biological work.  I have tried it a lot, and it seems pretty reliable.  Here it is.  Lenght x (girth squared) divided by 800=weight in pounds.  i.e.  20 inch trout with 10 inch girth would figure out to 2000/ 800=2 1/2 pounds and so on.  Try it out.  Dave That’s great for streamside, but when hearing about it from the angler, you must reduce it .167823% for each oz. of alcohol consumed prior to the recounting of the catch.

And what about a nice formula to calculate with the Metric system: Meter, Kilo etc. (so it becomes a global tool). == The Flyfishing Dutchman ==

Response:

<<Can someone give me a guide to estimating the weight of trout in the 12-24 inch range. Just a guestimate chart would do. I know there are a lot of variables. Many thanks.

Hi Scott- I have a chart that will figure the weight of any trout you’ll ever catch. *it’s free for the asking* On the back it has a lot of equally cool info. We include it in our student handouts.    If you (or anyone else out there) would like one, send me your snail mail address and I’ll be happy to get it to you. *don’t be bashful, I encourage you to use them (rather than weigh the fish till its dead)*    If you have a club and want a bunch just ask! (don’t worry. it’s free and we won’t put you on our perpetual mailing list of fly fishing junk mail unless you specifically request it!)    Tight Lines, Ralph —

Response:

Kumlien) writes: I have been told by fisheries biologists that the following formula works well for computing weight of any species of fish.  I once met British Columbia steelhead biologist who told me they use this formula for weight estimates for biological work.  I have tried it a lot, and it seems pretty reliable.  Here it is.  Lenght x (girth squared) divided by 800=weight in pounds.  i.e.  20 inch trout with 10 inch girth would figure out to 2000/ 800=2 1/2 pounds and so on.  Try it out.  Dave

That’s great for streamside, but when hearing about it from the angler, you must reduce it .167823% for each oz. of alcohol consumed prior to the recounting of the catch.

Response:

Can someone give me a guide to estimating the weight of trout in the 12-24 inch range. Just a guestimate chart would do. I know there are a lot of variables. Many thanks. — Scott Branyan Rogers, AR

Response:

I have been told by fisheries biologists that the following formula works well for computing weight of any species of fish.  I once met British Columbia steelhead biologist who told me they use this formula for weight estimates for biological work.  I have tried it a lot, and it seems pretty reliable.  Here it is.  Lenght x (girth squared) divided by 800=weight in pounds.  i.e.  20 inch trout with 10 inch girth would figure out to 2000/ 800=2 1/2 pounds and so on.  Try it out.  Dave

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rods » Rod lengths

Rod lengths

Question:

I’ve been thinking about these fly rods that are only about 6.5 feet long and wondered if any of you had any qualms about short fly-rods like I do. espescially since I was thinking about picking up a new fly-rod for teaching or at least letting other people use. Like the others said: It depends on what kind of water you fish and what type of rod you prefer.  I fish medium to large streams and use a 9 foot 5 weight.  I even use the 9 footer on rather small streams. (this is in the North East by the way)  I find that the 9 footer makes everything easier and lets me put my fly where i want it with less effort and false casting. On a small stream with alot of brush, you will not be able to make a back cast anyway; i think the 9 footer makes putting the fly where you want it easier..just my opinion Frankie

I have a 7.5 foot rod that I use on several small streams near my home. These streams are maybe 20 feet across, with very brushy steep banks and trees that form an almost complete canopy in most places. In this situation short rod is nice. With a 9 foot rod you can’t lift it high enough for a roll cast or set the hook without running into something. Everywhere else I fish I prefer a 9 footer. Jay

Response:

 If you like the 9 foot rods then stick with them.  Short rods are nice

but you can cast even with bush behind you on small streams by raising your backcast.  I know we were all taught ten to two o’clock methods, but a high backcast or a hard roll cast can get your fly to almost any hole. But if you are not worried about the money then get a shorter rod.  I would rather spend it on a good cane rod. Huber

Response:

I agree with all of you.  in the small over grown streams I find the short rod a dream.  when I am belly boating I must have a longer rod.  you mention teaching.  well i have a somewhat large fly fishing school just outside of toronto and i have found that the students can handel 8 – 9 foot rods the best.  they have trouble when i go shorter or longer. Murray Abbott.    (Murray’s Fly Fishing) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been thinking about these fly rods that are only about 6.5 feet  long and wondered if any of you had any qualms about short fly-rods like I do. espescially since I was thinking about picking up a new fly-rod for teaching or at least letting other people use. Like the others said: It depends on what kind of water you fish and what type of rod you prefer.  I fish medium to large streams and use a 9 foot 5 weight.  I even use the 9 footer on rather small streams. (this is in the North East by the way)  I find that the 9 footer makes everything easier and lets me put my fly where i want it with less effort and false casting. On a small stream with alot of brush, you will not be able to make a back cast anyway; i think the 9 footer makes putting the fly where you want it easier..just my opinion Frankie I have a 7.5 foot rod that I use on several small streams near my home. These streams are maybe 20 feet across, with very brushy steep banks and trees that form an almost complete canopy in most places. In this situation  short rod is nice. With a 9 foot rod you can’t lift it high enough for a roll cast or set the hook without running into something. Everywhere else I fish I prefer a 9 footer. Jay

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