Question:

I got an Outcast Fat Cat 66 VBoat for my birthday  and spent the day fishing a lovely pond on the edge of town. A friend who works for CO DOW gave me a tip on a low-pressure piece of stocked water and man oh man was he right! I have never in my life had a more productive day of fly fishing. This was my first time floating and I’m just amazed at the experience. I would like to meet other float tubers in the Boulder/Front Range area who would like to get together and fish. Reply here. Woo Hoo! Oh, btw, I’m 38. -bh

Response:

I got an Outcast Fat Cat 66 VBoat for my birthday  and spent the day fishing a lovely pond on the edge of town. A friend who works for CO DOW gave me a tip on a low-pressure piece of stocked water and man oh man was he right! I have never in my life had a more productive day of fly fishing. This was my first time floating and I’m just amazed at the experience. I would like to meet other float tubers in the Boulder/Front Range area who would like to get together and fish. Reply here. Woo Hoo! Oh, btw, I’m 38. -bh

Happy Birthday, B! Got me one of these devices too, but never got to try it. Blew up (Booom) on the first trip. Never reached the water though, lucky me! Just got a replacement innertube, if I dare to use it… Tight lines and safe floats! Stefan, Sweden

Response:

Question:

Hello: Anyone have any experiences with either a RS2 or Usual? How fished? Sizes/colors for modest size streams? Any pix on the web for the Usual?   ( have found some on the RS2) Thanks, Bob

Response:

Bob, I can’t help with the RS2, but the Usual, in many variations, is one of my favorite patterns. I normally tie sizes #12 to #18, and occasionally smaller. This is a dry fly that is tyed with the fur from the rear feet of the Snowshoe Hare to form the wing and tail, and in the case of the original pattern, the body. Snowshoe Hare is available in a range of natural and dyed colors, so a number of insects can be imitated. This has become quite a popular pattern, so a search of the fly fishing web sites should turn up quite a bit of information, including photos. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

Hi Bob, I don’t know the RS2 but I am familiar with the Usual.  The fly was invented by Francis Betters for the Ausable River in New York.  The section in front of his fly shop under Whiteface Mountain is fast flowing pocket water for which this fly is ideal – it floats like a cork.  However, I have caught fish in all kinds of water east and west, including fast-flowing freestone streams, limestone spring creeks and stillwaters (ponds) and by just about every technique, both casting to risers and prospecting.  A size 14 Usual is one of three dry flies from which I always select to start fishing; the other two being a size 12 Grey Fox Variant (Flick) and a size 12 Mini-muddler. I am not sure of the exact historical details, but the fly was popularized in Toronto by Bill Phillips who was a member of the Izaak Walton Fly Fishermen’s Club (now Izaak Walton Fly Fisher’s Club) in the 1970’s and who knew Betters and fished the Ausable.  Betters probably invented the fly in the late1960’s or early 1970’s.  For a long time the Usual was virtually a cult fly, unknown outside of the Adirondacks and a group of fly fishers around Toronto.  This was probably because snowshoe hare was so hard to find; almost nobody besides Betters sold the material.  My guess is that this was because snowshoe hare has no commercial value and most fly-tying furs then were byproducts of the fashion trade.  Betters probably trapped or shot his own animals for his flies.  Fortunately, snowshoe hare’s feet are now widely available, possibly because word of mouth growth in popularity of the Usual has made it feasible to trap them for the fly-tying market.  I believe you can even find them in Orvis shops now.  Make sure you use genuine snowshoe hare and do not even think of subtituting rabbit –  snowshoe hare has a very, very high content of natural oils and there is no real substitute.  I posted photographs of the fly on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing a while ago in response to another enquiry in this newsgroup but they might have expired by now.  If you don’t have any luck finding pictures on the web, I will be happy to e-mail them to you. Best regards, Yuji Sakuma – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: Anyone have any experiences with either a RS2 or Usual? How fished? Sizes/colors for modest size streams? Any pix on the web for the Usual?   ( have found some on the RS2) Thanks, Bob

Response:

Question:

He’ll be learning in the warmwater venue.  Bluegills, sunfish, rock bass, etc.  I’m wondering if it would be easier to learn the "feel" of casting with the heavier rod, or if the heavier rod would be a setback for the little guy.  I know a buddy I converted to fly fishing prefered the feel of an 8 when learning to cast.  He said he couldn’t feel what was going on as well with a 5. Share your experience…. Bob Scott

Bob:   I would guess your buddy was bigger and stronger.  To an eight year old, I still think a typical eight weight would feel like a telephone pole, as another responder noted.   I liked the six, because the rod was light enough, but the line weight seemed to be enough to get them going.  I wouldn’t go longer than 8 ft., either.      Just read Mr. Popp’s post, and everything he said is very true and worth remembering.  Particularly the part about not bothering to bring a rod yourself for the first few times out, at least.  It removes temptation, and allows you to really focus on making sure the kid has the best time possible.  And, patience, patience, patience…… when he’s had enough by his standards – not yours, you fishing fool – call it a day and get some ice cream. Mark Faulkner

Response:

      The rod is not as important as patience as long as he can handle it. The first thing to do is get him interested in fishing and the best way to do that is for him to catch fish. Fly fishing is a bit much for an 8 year old but a zebco closed face spinning rod fishing a bober and worms is ideal. Kids learn quick but when the action slows they lose interest quickly too. Pick a place with plenty of bream, leave your rod at home (you will be too busy helping him to fish). Catch enough to fry up for one small meal and go home (during a lull in the bites).

Many people who have successfully taught children to fish find a reel is unnecessary and a confusing complication for small children.  Either a cane pole or a fly rod with a fixed length of line, say 15 ft., allows the child to fish bait to a depth of say 6 ft. without bothering about the reel, and to present a fly on or near the surface anywhere up to 20 ft. distance.  The child can then concentrate on presentation first, or hooking and playing afterward, without needing to think about letting out more line or winding it in. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Hi, I missed the first post, but I disagree a bit with some of the info in the follow up. I have been teaching kids fly-fishing for a lifetime, and I have tried many methods. the first thing i would mention is that I do agree with a 6 or 7 wgt rod (and line obviously, you HAVE to have a balanced outfit).On the other hand, make it an 8′6" or even 9′. I don’t know if you’ve ever tried an 8′ but there is a significant diffeence. As I’ve said before, the best rod set-up is one that can cat easily, and to me an 8′6" 6/7 wgt is perfect. I think the small kid, small rod thing is a carryover from shooting – start ‘em on a .20 gauge shotgu, yadda, yadda… I also agree with the thought that you not bring a rod the first times, and would add, take ‘em somewhere their bound to catch fish – any fish !! Last summer taught my 7 yr. old cousin, his first fly fish was a smallmouth bass, and he loved it !!! I have taught as young as 4 yr olds, so go for it, and have fun!!! Bill Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m setting up an outfit for my girlfriend’s 8-year-old son for Easter.  She said "Don’t buy a rod…"   –actually, she said ‘fly fishing pole’  – "my brother-in-law has one he doesn’t use.  He’s sending it up for Easter with his daughter when she visits.  He says it’s fiberglass, and about 6" taller than he is."    He’s about six feet. I got it today.  If it’s not a spinning rod, it’s a dead ringer.  It’s 6′6", with a 12"-long, fat, untapered cork grip, 1"-wide sliding blue-anodized rings, and conventional two-footed guides.  It’s labeled "CONOLON live fiber AIR FLITE 412,  NARMCO, INC,  COSTA MESA, CA"   I guess I better pick up something else. Anyway, at WalMart, they carry a Cortland 8′6" 6-weight IM6 rod for about $37.  They also have a cheaper "graphite composite" Garcia (I think) for about $22.  It’s an 8-weight.  I have an older St.Croix 8′6" fiberglass 8-weight I’d be willing to part with.   It seems like the lighter rod would be better for the little guy (He’s pretty small).   I’m a bachelor, and never taught a child that age to cast.  I’m very anxious to get him started. Should I buy the better rod for a child that age?  Or should I give him my old St.Croix?  What level or proficiency should I expect, or strive for? Please give me a little advice, Dads out there! — Bob Scott

       The rod is not as important as patience as long as he can handle it. The first thing to do is get him interested in fishing and the best way to do that is for him to catch fish. Fly fishing is a bit much for an 8 year old but a zebco closed face spinning rod fishing a bober and worms is ideal. Kids learn quick but when the action slows they lose interest quickly too. Pick a place with plenty of bream, leave your rod at home (you will be too busy helping him to fish). Catch enough to fry up for one small meal and go home (during a lull in the bites).         I’ve taught a son 3 daughters, and 4 grandsons to fish and am starting on a great grandson who is 2 1/2 his attention span has increased to 10 minutes none started on flys and the son and only one grandson are really interested in fly fishing that much so far.          Remember the important thing is he have fun, catch fish and learn the simple things in fishing. He can develope the rest as he gets older. Have Patient he’ll learn if it’s fun and not too complicated.                                                          John Popp                                                        in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Hi Robert, I started my son casting and fishing at age 8. I gave him a fiberglass 7 1/2′ rod for a 5 line. It worked great for him.  Graphite was not available at that time. I suggest an inexpensive, light rod. At 8, Those heavy 8 wt and above feel like swinging a telephone pole to a small kid. Spring is around the corner, be sure to find some spawn areas with Bluegill for him to catch. The best and sure way to give a kid a good time catching fish. Good Luck ! — William Endicott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m setting up an outfit for my girlfriend’s 8-year-old son for Easter. She said "Don’t buy a rod…"   –actually, she said ‘fly fishing pole’ — "my brother-in-law has one he doesn’t use.  He’s sending it up for Easter with his daughter when she visits.  He says it’s fiberglass, and about 6" taller than he is."    He’s about six feet. I got it today.  If it’s not a spinning rod, it’s a dead ringer.  It’s 6′6", with a 12"-long, fat, untapered cork grip, 1"-wide sliding blue-anodized rings, and conventional two-footed guides.  It’s labeled "CONOLON live fiber AIR FLITE 412,  NARMCO, INC,  COSTA MESA, CA"   I guess I better pick up something else. Anyway, at WalMart, they carry a Cortland 8′6" 6-weight IM6 rod for about $37.  They also have a cheaper "graphite composite" Garcia (I think) for about $22.  It’s an 8-weight.  I have an older St.Croix 8′6" fiberglass 8-weight I’d be willing to part with.   It seems like the lighter rod would be better for the little guy (He’s pretty small).   I’m a bachelor, and never taught a child that age to cast.  I’m very anxious to get him started. Should I buy the better rod for a child that age?  Or should I give him my old St.Croix?  What level or proficiency should I expect, or strive for? Please give me a little advice, Dads out there! — Bob Scott

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –       The rod is not as important as patience as long as he can handle it. The first thing to do is get him interested in fishing and the best way to do that is for him to catch fish. Fly fishing is a bit much for an 8 year old but a zebco closed face spinning rod fishing a bober and worms is ideal. Kids learn quick but when the action slows they lose interest quickly too. Pick a place with plenty of bream, leave your rod at home (you will be too busy helping him to fish). Catch enough to fry up for one small meal and go home (during a lull in the bites).        I’ve taught a son 3 daughters, and 4 grandsons to fish and am starting on a great grandson who is 2 1/2 his attention span has increased to 10 minutes none started on flys and the son and only one grandson are really interested in fly fishing that much so far.         Remember the important thing is he have fun, catch fish and learn the simple things in fishing. He can develope the rest as he gets older. Have Patient he’ll learn if it’s fun and not too complicated.                                                         John Popp                                                       in Sanford Fl.

John,     This guy is ready to progress from the Zebco stage already.  He lives, eats and breathes fishing, and fly fishing is what he wants to learn.   I bought him a fly tying kit for Christmas… you should see him go at it! Some very interesting stuff comes off that vise!     We will definitely be starting out with the local bluegills… when the water temp gets out of the 40s.  I think I’ll buy him the nice, light Cortland IM6 rod.  He’s casted my soft Orvis 9′ 5-wt with my hand over his, but not alone.  That’s the extent of his experience so far.  This intense interest in fly fishing developed this winter.  I gave him a beginner’s book on fly fishing, and his Mom’s been reading it to him.  He told me he already knows how to cast; "From ten o’clock to noon!" he says.     Should be fun. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Bob Scott

Response:

I’m setting up an outfit for my girlfriend’s 8-year-old son for Easter.  She said "Don’t buy a rod…"   –actually, she said ‘fly fishing pole’  – "my brother-in-law has one he doesn’t use.  He’s sending it up for Easter with his daughter when she visits.  He says it’s fiberglass, and about 6" taller than he is."    He’s about six feet.

If he is 6 ft tall at 8 years old, Bob, you are in BIG trouble if he doesn’t take a shine to you by, say, age 12.  Accordingly, I would probably be looking at a Sage, Loomis, Winston, etc. Anyway, at WalMart, they carry a Cortland 8′6" 6-weight IM6 rod for about $37.  They also have a cheaper "graphite composite" Garcia (I think) for about $22.  It’s an 8-weight.  I have an older St.Croix 8′6" fiberglass 8-weight I’d be willing to part with.   It seems like the lighter rod would be better for the little guy (He’s pretty small).   I’m a bachelor, and never taught a child that age to cast.  I’m very anxious to get him started. Should I buy the better rod for a child that age?  Or should I give him my old St.Croix?  What level or proficiency should I expect, or strive for? Please give me a little advice, Dads out there! — Bob Scott

Seriously, having worked with a few kids (and my daughters) on introductions to fly casting, I would suggest the lighter rod (but not too light).  I have a 1970’s vintage 6′6" Eagle Claw fiberglass that was pretty good when they were 8-10 years old, and would gladly lend it to you if that was feasible.  But at 10 or so, I started them on an 8 ft six weight "old" graphite – actually, an Orvis purchased about 1979.  This turned out to be a very good rod for them to work with.  However, since I gather you do a lot of surf/ocean fishing, and all my experience in teaching is on Pennsylvania trout streams, none of this may be relevent. Mark Faulkner

Response:

I’m setting up an outfit for my girlfriend’s 8-year-old son for Easter. She said "Don’t buy a rod…"   –actually, she said ‘fly fishing pole’ (  – "my brother-in-law has one he doesn’t use.  He’s sending it up for Easter with his daughter when she visits.  He says it’s fiberglass, and about 6" taller than he is."    He’s about six feet. If he is 6 ft tall at 8 years old, Bob, you are in BIG trouble if he doesn’t take a shine to you by, say, age 12.

No… I meant my girlfriends BROTHER-IN-LAW is 6-feet!   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Anyway, at WalMart, they carry a Cortland 8′6" 6-weight IM6 rod for about $37.  They also have a cheaper "graphite composite" Garcia (I think) for about $22.  It’s an 8-weight.  I have an older St.Croix 8′6" fiberglass 8-weight I’d be willing to part with.   It seems like the lighter rod would be better for the little guy (He’s pretty small).   I’m a bachelor, and never taught a child that age to cast.  I’m very anxious to get him started. Should I buy the better rod for a child that age?  Or should I give him my old St.Croix?  What level or proficiency should I expect, or strive for? Please give me a little advice, Dads out there! — Bob Scott Seriously, having worked with a few kids (and my daughters) on introductions to fly casting, I would suggest the lighter rod (but not too light).  I have a 1970’s vintage 6′6" Eagle Claw fiberglass that was pretty good when they were 8-10 years old, and would gladly lend it to you if that was feasible.  But at 10 or so, I started them on an 8 ft six weight "old" graphite – actually, an Orvis purchased about 1979.  This turned out to be a very good rod for them to work with.  However, since I gather you do a lot of surf/ocean fishing, and all my experience in teaching is on Pennsylvania trout streams, none of this may be relevent. Mark Faulkner

Mark,     He’ll be learning in the warmwater venue.  Bluegills, sunfish, rock bass, etc.  I’m wondering if it would be easier to learn the "feel" of casting with the heavier rod, or if the heavier rod would be a setback for the little guy.  I know a buddy I converted to fly fishing prefered the feel of an 8 when learning to cast.  He said he couldn’t feel what was going on as well with a 5. Share your experience…. Bob Scott

Response:

I’m setting up an outfit for my girlfriend’s 8-year-old son for Easter.  She said "Don’t buy a rod…"   –actually, she said ‘fly fishing pole’  – "my brother-in-law has one he doesn’t use.  He’s sending it up for Easter with his daughter when she visits.  He says it’s fiberglass, and about 6" taller than he is."    He’s about six feet. I got it today.  If it’s not a spinning rod, it’s a dead ringer.  It’s 6′6", with a 12"-long, fat, untapered cork grip, 1"-wide sliding blue-anodized rings, and conventional two-footed guides.  It’s labeled "CONOLON live fiber AIR FLITE 412,  NARMCO, INC,  COSTA MESA, CA"   I guess I better pick up something else. Anyway, at WalMart, they carry a Cortland 8′6" 6-weight IM6 rod for about $37.  They also have a cheaper "graphite composite" Garcia (I think) for about $22.  It’s an 8-weight.  I have an older St.Croix 8′6" fiberglass 8-weight I’d be willing to part with.   It seems like the lighter rod would be better for the little guy (He’s pretty small).   I’m a bachelor, and never taught a child that age to cast.  I’m very anxious to get him started. Should I buy the better rod for a child that age?  Or should I give him my old St.Croix?  What level or proficiency should I expect, or strive for? Please give me a little advice, Dads out there! — Bob Scott

Response:

Question:

I have sold my tools and materials, now I am offering my books and magazines.  $35.00 + shipping takes all. "Expert Fly-Tying,"  Paul Fling & Donald Puturbaugh, 1986 "Favorite Flies and Their Histories," Mary Orvis Marbury, 1892 (1995 reprint) "Fly-Tyer Pattern Bible," 1985 "Creative Fly-Tying & Fly Fishing," Rex Gerlach, 1974 "Practical Flies & Their Construction," Lacey Gee & Erwin Sias, 1966 My homemade note book with appx. 675 patterns, most with color pictures "Fly Tyer"  Aug ‘84, Nov ‘84, Spring ‘85, Fall ‘85 "American Fly Tyer:"  Spring ‘86-Winter ‘87, most issues "American Angler & Fly Tyer"  Spring ‘88-Fall ‘90, most issues "American Angler"  jan’91-June ‘91 If interested, email Jim at the above email address

Response:

Thanks to all of you who responded.  I sold the books to the first e-mail response I received. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have sold my tools and materials, now I am offering my books and magazines.  $35.00 + shipping takes all.

Response:

Question:

I will be visiting Colorado in a couple of weeks and was wondering what the runoff situation was.  I am specifically interested in the Colorado and Frasier rivers around Granby.  TIA. Dave Felter

Response:

I will be visiting Colorado in a couple of weeks and was wondering what the runoff situation was.  I am specifically interested in the Colorado and Frasier rivers around Granby.  TIA. Dave Felter

one thing about runoff, well two things…. 1) you can always, always fish no matter how high or muddy and nail nice ones. 2) you can always, always go high enough in altitude to the sources which should be in fine shape. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

I will be visiting Colorado in a couple of weeks and was wondering what the runoff situation was.  I am specifically interested in the Colorado and Frasier rivers around Granby.  TIA.

The rivers are dropping and clearing.  I think you’ll have good fishing. 2) you can always, always go high enough in altitude to the sources which should be in fine shape.

How heavy does my sink-tip have to be to get my fly down in the snow-field? — -Wayne Trzyna

Response:

I will be visiting Colorado in a couple of weeks and was wondering what the runoff situation was.  I am specifically interested in the Colorado and Frasier rivers around Granby.  TIA. The rivers are dropping and clearing.  I think you’ll have good fishing. 2) you can always, always go high enough in altitude to the sources which should be in fine shape. How heavy does my sink-tip have to be to get my fly down in the snow-field?

then you’re getting too high, Wayne…<g… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

I will be visiting Colorado in a couple of weeks and was wondering what the runoff situation was.  I am specifically interested in the Colorado and Frasier rivers around Granby.  TIA. Dave Felter

The hydrographs I have seen show the West Slope to be about 10-14 days behind the East Slope for runoff. On the East Slope runoff is only now slowing substantially. My forecast is that it will be another week or two before levelling off to something like normal summer conditions; the west slope should follow by another week or so. Still fishable, though. Ken Clark Ft. Lupton, CO

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Question:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. — Gerald Strom University of Illinois at Chicago

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. —

cut it off…put the dry on you hatband of drying patch… if this makes your tippet too short then cut this off and replace it too… TimW

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks.

Hi Gerald First off there is no such thing as a dumb question.  That’s what this group is all about — questions and answers. When you want to change a fly just cut one off and tie on another.  There are special nippers made for this purpose OR if you don’t have one a small finger nail clipper will work just fine.  When I first started I used a finger nail clipper on a loop of old fly line around my neck for several years. There are several different knots used to tie on flies.  You can go to the library and find a book on fly fishing or check at your local fly shop.  There is a neat little book (about 3"x5") on knots available today.  I personally like the Uni Knot but there are other good knots as well.  Many of the fly line manufacturers include knot tying instructions with there fly line.  Also I have an old aluminum Perine fly box that has the knot tying instruction on the front of the box. Keep asking the questions and I’m sure you’ll find someone more experienced on this group who will help. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT(96 catalog)

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. —

I must admit that I have never thought about it till now.  basicly i cut (bite) the old one off,  I guess that this results in the tippet ( end of the leader) becomming shorter and shorter.   In the UK you can get in small "snap" links from Mustard which are designed for easy fly changing Julian

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Just cut fly off as close to hook as as possible then tie on new fly.Best to have someone show you improved clinch knot or uni knot

best of luck -jkralic

Response:

Heck, if you haven’t caught the darn thing in a tree behind you, you can’t be that dumb… Just snip it off and buy lots of tippet.

Response:

writes: Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this? Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks.

No need to apologize for your question.  the only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked.  Enjoyed the pun by the way ;^ When you want to change flies, you simply cut off the first one and tie on another. Eventually this will shorten your tippet (if you don’t lose it to a fly eating tree or bush first, or cast some wind knots into it), but then you cut that off and tie on a new piece.  Orvis has a waterproof knot booklet for about $5 that has the appropriate knots listed and how to tie them. Personally I use the Orvis knot to tie on most trout flies and a Trilene knot to tie on any fly large enough to pass the tippet through the eye twice (large streamers, bass flies, steelheadsalmon flies, saltwater flies).  On flies that I want to use a lot of action on I will often use a Duncan’s loop.                            Hope this helps,                                      Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

Response:

In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

I myself work on the premise that my tippet should be either the same or one size smaller than the tip section of my leader. For determining the end "tippet" size a good general rule is too devide your hook size by three. Example: Size 12 adams – use a 4x tippet. Reel simple

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In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe I myself work on the premise that my tippet should be either the same or one size smaller than the tip section of my leader. For determining the end "tippet" size a good general rule is too devide your hook size by three. Example: Size 12 adams – use a 4x tippet. Reel simple

One approach is to use a 3X leader and then step down to the desired tippet size  using 6 – 8 inch long transition sections.  For example, if you want to use a 6X tippet, you would use 8 inches of 4X and 8 inches of 5 X between the leader and tippet section. This way you only carry one size leader. Regards, Chuck

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One approach is to use a 3X leader and then step down to the desired tippet size  using 6 – 8 inch long transition sections.  For example, if you want to use a 6X tippet, you would use 8 inches of 4X and 8 inches of 5 X between the leader and tippet section. This way you only carry one size leader. Regards, Chuck

Not a bad idea Chuck except for me personally I find it very difficult to  tie on those little pieces of tippet material while there is a feeding frenzy going on. For some reason my fingers and brain seem to disconnect while whatching trout splashing and jumping all around me, not to mention the problem of cold fingers or low light. I generally carry a range of leaders sizes 3x-6x pretied with 3 feet of tippet section done while at home whatching a fishing show or something. This allows me more time to fish and less aggravation on the water. I only tie on the water if I have to. Tight lines Russ

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(DLowe21757) writes: In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

Boy this can be a can of worms! Commercial knotless tapered leaders consist of three parts – butt section (which is heavy and level or very slightly tapered), the tapering section (which rapidly tapers down to your tippet size), and the tippet section (which is also level and the part that you tie onto the fly).  So your leader already has a tippet on it.  You can replace the tippet as needed as you break it off or cut it down from changing flies.  Much less expensive to tie on a new tippet section than to change an entire leader every time you mess up the tippet.  You can also change how your leader performs by cutting back or adding tippet.  If you add tippet you will get more slack out near the fly, if you cut back tippet you will get more power delivered to the fly resulting is less slack and more ease in turning over large flies or regular flies in windy conditions.  You can play around with the butt section in the opposite manner to accomplish the same thing, but that means tying two knots instead of one.  And of course if you really want to get carried away you can vary both to fine tune the leader to your needs. A good approximate guide to which tippet size to use is to divide the size of your fly by 3 and use the resultant number for your tippet X number. For instance: size 18 fly divided by 3 = 6X tippet, size 12 divided by 3 = 4X, size 16 divided by 3 = 5X and a little left over.  In slow clear water with spooky trout you may have to go one X smaller, and in fast pocket water you may be able to go one X larger.  Listen to what the fish say, they’ll tell you. Length of leader is more a function of the water type than anything else. We use longer leaders for greater subtlety (less obtrusive than the fly line) and more suppleness.  Long leaders – 9 to 12 ft.- are most commonly needed in slow clear water with spooky trout.  That is because the trout gets a long time to inspect your fly in slow water and are typically more critical of drag.  Short leaders – 6 to 7 1/2 ft. – are used in faster water for better control with typically larger flies in fast water conditions.  In fast water the trout gets only a short time to see your fly before he takes it or rejects it and there is not usually as much food available (harsher conditions) so he tends to be more opportunistic than in the slower water conditions.  Since we don’t need the added subtlety and suppleness of the longer leader in faster conditions we don’t use it. Always best to use the shortest heaviest leader you can get away with. Again listen to the trout.   If the trout aren’t taking your fly you probably need to go longer and finer.  Sometimes the shortest stoutest leader that will work is a 12 ft. 6X or 7X leader.                      Hope this helps,                              Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Question:

My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations? thx….. Bob

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My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations?

I’d hit the road north and run up along the east-side of the Olympic Pennisula to Lilliwaup, and visit the Hama Hama River for some sea-run cutt’s… <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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Youll have so much fishing within two hours you wont know what to do:  to the west – all the famous Olympic Peninsula streams for steelhead; plus the Elwha for trout (near Port angeles); to the south, youll have the cowlitz, Kalama and other famous steelhead and salmon rivers (plus some trout); to the north (if you want to drive through seattle) youll have the Green, Skykomish and Stilly; to the east, you have mtn lakes, marginal trout streams and youre abnout 2 hours from the Yakima River, the states best fly fishing river….  Not to mention the Puget Sound salt water where people fly fish quite a bit, including from shore for salmon, cutts and snags. Have fun, Andy Taylor Pocatello, Idaho

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Question:

Plainly [we live] in a world which rebuffs those who make demands upon it but one which lavishes benevolence upon those who ask for nothing.  It is this paradox which leads me to suspect that the esthetic derivatives of fishing are inversely proportional to the complexity and refinement of the angler’s methodology.   -Harold Blaisdell, The Philosophical Fisherman

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I am a member of The Long Beach Casting Club in Long Beach,CA, chartered in 1926. We are a not-for-profit fly fishing club and members of the Western Casting Association and the American Casting Association. We are fortunate enough to have a clubhouse and casting pond facility at our disposal. We provide classes in beginning fly casting instruction, fly fishing techniques, rod building and fly tying. All classes are held on Tuesday evenings at 7:00 P.M. ALL CLASSES ARE FREE TO THE PUBLIC. Our monthly meetings are usually on the last Thursday of the month but can change according to the availabilty of the speaker. We have hosted speakers such as Lani Waller, Polly Rosborough and A.K. Best to name a few. Aside from the Monthly meetings and classes we are involved in target and distance casting with flys and plugs throughout the months May through February. We host club trips each month to destinations as close as Newport Bay and Bolsa Chica Beach, to places like the Babine River, the Green River and Yellowstone. We boast of a high number of FFF Certified Casting instructors, nationally recognized fly-tyers, past national casting champions and a solid core of knowledgable, friendly, giving anglers. Anyone interested in finding out more about The Long Beach Casting Club can contact me via E-mail. As a public service I will start posting current and upcoming events of the Long Beach Casting Club. Watch this space for "L.B.C.C. Events". Remember that ALL INSTRUCTION IS FREE. Guy Manning

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Attributed to me: "Great fishing beats average sex"

Hell, LOUSY fishing beats average sex! Of course, there’s always the quote that goes:  "A man’s gotta believe in something, I believe I’ll go fishing."

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I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?…

How about the Far Side cartoon with two guys in a boat on the lake with atomic mushroom clouds on the horizon. Guys looking at clouds with the quote "I’ll tell you what this means Norm… no size restrictions and screw the limits" Barry Welliver

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My current fav— "Give a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day.  Teach a man to fish and the damn fool will starve to  death before he comes in off the river!"  Author unknown Charley

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 Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?

. "I got a fly rod for my wife.  Not a bad trade huh?" . Timothy Raup Eagles Nest 1-401-353-3359

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My favorite quote by far comes from John Gerach’s book Dances With Trout: "If flyfishing is as good as sex, then I’m doing one of them wrong." For humor and entertaining reading about flyfishing, Gerach is very good.

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One of my favorites came from a friend I taught to bass bug last summer. "Flyfishing has to be the most elegant and expensive way to get skunked." JL 8-Wt Editor

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folk got some favourite quotes? All thoughts gratefully received. Might even be an occasion to persuade a few more of our folk to get on the net and chat.  

My father, an avid fly fisherman, says to my mother: "When one of us die, I’ll go fishing on Bornholm" Bornholm is a beautiful island with a lot of sea run salmon and trout. Another one, for which I don’t know the source goes something like this: "Those who say that fly fishing is better than sex, has no understanding of either" A very funny one. A danish tackle shop gets an order for a lot of vises for danes travelling to Saudi Arabia. A costumer stadning by says: "It must be for dry flies" Regards Martin Joergensen Copenhagen, Denmark

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a member of The Long Beach Casting Club in Long Beach,CA, chartered in 1926. We are a not-for-profit fly fishing club and members of the Western Casting Association and the American Casting Association. We are fortunate enough to have a clubhouse and casting pond facility at our disposal. We provide classes in beginning fly casting instruction, fly fishing techniques, rod building and fly tying. All classes are held on Tuesday evenings at 7:00 P.M. ALL CLASSES ARE FREE TO THE PUBLIC. Our monthly meetings are usually on the last Thursday of the month but can change according to the availabilty of the speaker. We have hosted speakers such as Lani Waller, Polly Rosborough and A.K. Best to name a few. Aside from the Monthly meetings and classes we are involved in target and distance casting with flys and plugs throughout the months May through February. We host club trips each month to destinations as close as Newport Bay and Bolsa Chica Beach, to places like the Babine River, the Green River and Yellowstone. We boast of a high number of FFF Certified Casting instructors, nationally recognized fly-tyers, past national casting champions and a solid core of knowledgable, friendly, giving anglers. Anyone interested in finding out more about The Long Beach Casting Club can contact me via E-mail. As a public service I will start posting current and upcoming events of the Long Beach Casting Club. Watch this space for "L.B.C.C. Events". Remember that ALL INSTRUCTION IS FREE. Guy Manning

Hi, pals of L.B.C.C         this is a good news, although I am in Taiwan here far away from         U.S.A and I never try fly-fishing, but I wish I can join …. csleou

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I may be late on this thread, but there is the old chesnut:         "Flyfishing isn’t a matter of life or death, its much more important than that"

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Hi, pals of L.B.C.C    this is a good news, although I am in Taiwan here far away from    U.S.A and I never try fly-fishing, but I wish I can join …. csleou

Of course, when making sarcastic comments about wasting bandwidth, you can only claim moral high ground if you make an effort to trim the article you’re quoting down, rather than forwarding a second copy of the ENTIRE article to the entire world. Also, if you don’t care about fly fishing, you really shouldn’t be posting here, as this is the FLY FISHING news group. Have a nice day. — Cray Computer Corporation    http://www.craycos.com/~ferguson/ferguson.html Colorado Springs, CO                                     Solely my opinions

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<< <Of course, when making sarcastic comments about wasting bandwidth, you tirade deleted for brevity… Calm down, I think he meant it.

Well, if he did, then I apologize. It’s so easy to read the wrong thing out of an ASCII text message, especially across international boundaries. It was a friday, and I’ve seen oh so many of these "gee, I can’t come to timbuktu for your class, because I live in outer slobovia" messages, that I instantly conclude it’s sarcastic. Maybe I was wrong. — Cray Computer Corporation    http://www.craycos.com/~ferguson/ferguson.html Colorado Springs, CO                                     Solely my opinions

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I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?

Attributed to me: "Great fishing beats average sex" — John Lawitzke Systems Engineer TechSmith Corporation

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I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?

Attributed to me: "Great fishing beats average sex" How ’bout this one…."Fishing is like sex, even when it’s bad it’s great"

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Tim Dudley: The cartoon book you’re referring to is by JOHN TROY! His work is great! With his permission his work will feature prominently in this thing I’m doing. Good to hear from you. And also that the chuckles are shared across the geography. Best. — David A. Calderisi

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 Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?

"The way to a man’s heart is through his fly" — Gary L. Bertrand   Dept. of Chemistry University of Missouri-Rolla

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I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you folk got some favourite quotes? no more wabbits." E. Fudd

I really like the quote at the beginning of "A River Runs Through It".  I don’t have the exact quote but it was something about all Gods diciples being flyfishermen and John was a dry flyfishermen. "My wife said if I went fishing one more time she’d leave me  Gawd, I’m gonna miss her" — John Fereira "Guru of Miscellany" Pleasanton, CA "Ask me about my vow of silence."

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OK Ok I just thought of one this is a Jason original…..   ( In your best Forest Gump voice and the Pecos Box is a local fishing area) " Life is like the Pecos Box ya never know what you going to catch….." jason — Jason J. Amaro               | Fight Racism!!!!!!!

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I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you folk got some favourite quotes?…

There’s a book of flyfishing cartoons by somebody who’s name escapes me, that has a great cartoon on the cover. It shows a lifeboat with five or six guys who look as if they’ve been in the boat for about a month – clothes are in rags, long hair, dirt, whiskers (no guide jokes here, please), in various states of starvation.  The boat is practically swamped, the waves are running about 12′ in gale force winds, and there’s a guy in the front fly fishing, with another guy hanging onto the fisherman by both legs, pleading with him:  "For God’s sake, man! Switch to wets!  They’ll never rise in seas like this!!" Tim

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: I’m doing a presentation for one of our local (well-established) : fly-fishing clubs next week. My topic is fly-fishing "humour". Any of you : folk got some favourite quotes? All thoughts gratefully received. Might : even be an occasion to persuade a few more of our folk to get on the net : and chat.   Pretty much anything Tim Walker says! Rick — T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    |  These University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    |  opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. |  are mine.  

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Question:

Watch out for the new toilet rings they are not the old beeswax kind and are to soft and oily. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing Arrrrrrg!  THE WAX TOILET GASKET.    What a great idea.  I thought this thread was dead.  We  were just ready to put together kits and start tying.  We would have come up short.  But saved by the toilet gasket.    What can we use to store all this great equipment?  Maybe we should go to a pot party and buy some Tupper ware.   Nah!  We are doing such a fine job.  Throw the plastic out.   I’m a river keeper, too!      .

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Thread sucking is a method…

And here I thought that I had invented this.  Oh well, another delusion of grandeur blown all to bits… <grin regards, John — Dr. John G. Hardie Indiana University Cyclotron Facility

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Thread sucking is a method…

      Sounds a little like Blondie’s definition of Dagwood as a fly tyer: "thread-sucking-leach." —

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writes: I would like to start a new thread on fly tying tools and paraphernalia, specifically, home-brew tools or modifications to store-bought ones.  I am afraid of this hobby going the way of many others, where the manufacturers (and peer pressure) convince everyone that they need to buy things that are easily made at home.  I offer a few here to get things going: Who wants to add more? Dave

Here is another one for the bench.  You can make an inexpensive dubbing teaser by asking your dentist for a root-canal pick.  Epoxy them in a wood handle and you got yourself an Awsome Dubbing Teaser. Nick

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I use a selection of cartridge cases instead of an adjustable hair stacker.  Short = 9 mm Parabellum, Medium = 357 Mag, Long = Sawed off rifle case. — Keep your stick on the ice.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think there is a point where using home grown flytying tools vs. store bought tools is more trouble than it’s worth.  Hackle pliers are just not that expensive.  Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it. On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?  For the cost of a bobbin with a ceramic sleeve I can buy a couple of cheaper steel sleeve bobbins.  So it wears out after five years or so.  I would have save a lot of time over those years because I didn’t have to thread a bobbin (I use the thread sucking technique too and it works well for me) everry time I changed threads.

This is a very valid point.  I think the choice of tools follows with the depth of one’s tying.  Do you tie 100 flys in a sitting or just 3 or 4?  Do you tie for yourself only, just for friends to give away, or hundreds to sell to others?   I find that with the limited amount of tying I do — just for myself and a few friends — I can get by with the cheaper steel bobbin.  I have yet to wear a groove in one that I bought for 25 cents on clearance.  Hackle plyers are cheap.  Why spend hours grinding one smooth?  Or for that matter…. Why spend $125 or more on a vise?  If I made a business out of tying flys, however, my attitude would change drastically.  I would then want the best tools money can buy.   I enjoy hearing about the better tools and I have tried them out from time to time, but I tend to weigh their price with their advantages over my rather limited private use.   I feel the same way about rods and reels.   Bob

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Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing wax you’ve ever seen.             Tom Loveday   Keizer, OR                I’d Rather Be Fishing

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing Arrrrrrg!  THE WAX TOILET GASKET.    What a great idea.  I thought this thread was dead.  We  were just ready to put together kits and start tying.  We would have come up short.  But saved by the toilet gasket.    What can we use to store all this great equipment?  Maybe we should go to a pot party and buy some Tupper ware.   Nah!  We are doing such a fine job.  Throw the plastic out.

For that matter, while you’re shopping at the hardware store for toilet items, pick up some lead wool.  It’s cheap and it makes great lead weight for flies. Jamus – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I’m a river keeper, too!      .

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:  What is the Thread Sucking technique for preparing a bobin? Aaron,  He’s refering to the practice of allowing some slack in your tying thread, placing the tip of the thread into the end of the barrel of your bobbin, and giving a sharp intake of air (i.e. "Sucking") to the other end of the barrel of the bobbin.  This pulls the thread through the barrel unless there is too much wax buildup to allow the thread in or you’re like me and insist on getting that slack you allowed wrapped around various parts of your anatomy and gumming up the works! Charley (been tying for my friends for 22 years!)

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Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it.

I don’t use tools specifically manufactured for fly tying to save money.  I do it   for the same reason why I don’t watch drag racing.  Most drag racing, and other   "sports",  have come down to a competition of machines and equipment as opposed to   man.  I enjoy tying flies with as little manufactured tools as possible because it   becomes a question of what is making the fly that catches the fish, a skilled   creative person or equipment.  I still catch plenty of fish. —

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This is an old one, but many people use electronic test lead clips as hackle pliers.  They come in a variety of sizes and can be bought at places like Radio Shack. I’ve also heard of using the (hemostat or tubing?) clamps from a medical supply store for hackle pliers.  File the teeth off of the clamping surfaces.  (I’m not in the medical profession, so I probably have the exact type of clamp wrong.)  

I think the proper medical term for those kinds of clamps is "roach clip" I think there is a point where using home grown flytying tools vs. store bought tools is more trouble than it’s worth.  Hackle pliers are just not that expensive.  Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it. On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?  For the cost of a bobbin with a ceramic sleeve I can buy a couple of cheaper steel sleeve bobbins.  So it wears out after five years or so.  I would have save a lot of time over those years because I didn’t have to thread a bobbin (I use the thread sucking technique too and it works well for me) everry time I changed threads. — John Fereira "Guru of Miscellany" Pleasanton, CA "Ask me about my vow of silence."

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And here I thought I was one of the only ones to show up at the local welding shop with a set of new (slightly modified) Vise-Grips and a length of steel rod, asking for them to be welded together. It’s just about the only way to handle big saltwater hooks! JL 8-Wt Editor

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And here I thought I was one of the only ones to show up at the local welding shop with a set of new (slightly modified) Vise-Grips and a length of steel rod, asking for them to be welded together. It’s just about the only way to handle big saltwater hooks!

An HMH vise with a super magnum jaw will handle the largest hooks. Mark Miller

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On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?

For those of us who tie large bass bugs and use Kevlar thread, you can tear up a steel tube in short order (less than a season). The ceramic tubes hold up much better when Kevlar is you spinning thread of choice. JL 8-Wt Editor

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This is an old one, but many people use electronic test lead clips as hackle pliers.  They come in a variety of sizes and can be bought at places like Radio Shack. I’ve also heard of using the (hemostat or tubing?) clamps from a medical supply store for hackle pliers.  File the teeth off of the clamping surfaces.  (I’m not in the medical profession, so I probably have the exact type of clamp wrong.)  I don’t know, however, if this alternative is cheaper than the ones from fly tying supply stores. Dave

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Couldn’t agree more about exercising good home-grown common sense inventivenes to accomplish just about everything promised by the gadget-floggers.

Very true.  And, although this observation drifts slightly away from the subject of home-made tying tools, the very best tools a fly tier has are his or her hands.  I try to rely on mechanical tools as little as possible, tying as much as possible with the fingers.  This saves time otherwise lost in locating, picking up and putting down the tool each time a fly is tied. Laying out your tools and materials in advance, and then tying with less fiddling with unnecessary tools, allows you to swiftly and smoothly tie a dozen flies of the same pattern, and they’ll be tighter, better flies. Woods Hole, MA   USA

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My father-in-law has made me several hair stackers out of copper and brass pipe scraps and end fittings, using sizes which just fit inside the next.  I then glued rubber on the bottom so they don’t rattle when tapped to stack the hair.  He also made me a vise, but nothing can substitute for my HMH. A bic pen with the guts removed is possibly the most useful tool for pushing back piles of spun deer hair, and also half hitching. You can often thread your bobbin by starting the thread and then sucking it through, that is if the wax is not built up too bad. The ultimate in homemade tools, the mouth!

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A spent shotgun shell can be used as a hair stacker. I made a "bobbin hanger" (not sure if there is an official name) out of a wire coat hanger.  I have seen fancier ones made from a piece of rod soldered to a small metal tube that slips over the upright rod of a vice.  Before wrapping hackle, you half-hitch the thread, then extend the thread out off of the eye end of the hook and over the bobbin hanger.  The thread is now out of the way for winding the hackle. Dave

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The front end of a ballpoint pen casing makes a find half-hitch tool. Different pens yield different sizes of hole in the tool.  (Is there anyone who doesn’t Who wants to add more?

I have not seen it lately, perhaps to a lack of looking around, but back in the fifties I use to see people using vise grips for fly tying vises.  It worked great, depending on the fly, at times you lay the VG on it side, adjust the jaw closure to be proper for you size hook and have at it.  I think it would probably work for any fly if you build a modest little stand out of wood and hold the vise up off of the table or what ever.  When we used to tye the flys out on the boat, we just stuck the jaw part over the edge of a table.   I just remembered a local tyer in Annapolis, Md also used a vise grip.  He did not cotton to a lot of foolishness,  but his flys sure worked. George,

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Couldn’t agree more about exercising good home-grown common sense inventivenes to accomplish just about everything promised by the gadget-floggers. But Dave, I think you’re a little late. Look in this year’s catalogs and you’ll see there’s everything from fly steam-cleaners to special brushes to re-align plume barbs. (sigh!) The gadgeteers have alread won. Still, we don’t have to buy, do we? If you can get your hands on some back issues of American Fly Tyer and Angler, there’s a regular series on the sort of thing you’re talking about.  Have fun. — David A. Calderisi

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I would like to start a new thread on fly tying tools and paraphernalia, specifically, home-brew tools or modifications to store-bought ones.  I am afraid of this hobby going the way of many others, where the manufacturers (and peer pressure) convince everyone that they need to buy things that are easily made at home.  I offer a few here to get things going: A potter’s needle tool is a cheap alternative to a dubbing needle. You can make a dubbing needle from a sewing needle and a piece of wooden dowel rod.  Glue the needle into a hole drilled in the end of the dowel.  If you break the needle across the eye first, the two jagged ends can be jammed into the bottom of the hole for better holding power.  (Be careful and protect your eyes when cutting/breaking the needle.) Dental floss threaders (available at drug stores) can be used as bobbin threaders. You can make a bobbin threader out of piano wire.  Bend a piece of wire in half, drill a hole in the end of a wooden dowel rod, and epoxy the two ends of the wire into the hole. I suspect you can also make a dubbing fur winding tool in a similar fashion. Nail polish works as head cement.  I’ve had Sally Hansen’s "Hard As Nails with Nylon" in nude (i.e., clear) highly recommended.  Pull out the bristles from the brush and replace with a (broken off) sewing needle, instead.  The needle applicator will allow you to apply a drop at a time without needing to grab your dubbing needle or a toothpick to do it.  (I’ve seen other people use this trick, but haven’t done it yet myself.  I am not sure if you need to epoxy the needle in place or if it will stick there on its own.) The front end of a ballpoint pen casing makes a find half-hitch tool. Different pens yield different sizes of hole in the tool.  (Is there anyone who doesn’t know this one already?) Who wants to add more? Dave

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Question:

I’ve read that nylon pantyhose makes a great shuck imitation.   -Clyde

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I’ve read that nylon pantyhose makes a great shuck imitation.  

And, its great fun to watch them get taken off!

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I’m a lover of spring creek midge fishing.  While I’m doing well on my pupae, I still can’t find a dry pattern that will consistently (or even semi-regularly) fool the surface sippers..  The thing I’m looking for is a

Check Gary LaFoine’s book "The Dry Fly", in it he has a pattern called the Buzz Ball that is suppose to imitated a midge cluster on the surface like one would see on some back water on the San Juan or similar river. good luck Mark Powers Boston

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I’m a lover of spring creek midge fishing.  While I’m doing well on my pupae, I still can’t find a dry pattern that will consistently (or even semi-regularly) fool the surface sippers..  The thing I’m looking for is a pattern that imitates  the midge during those few seconds that it sits dry on the surface, but is still attached to the shuck…apparently the moment of greatest vulnerability.  Both the midge and the shuck or on the surface (shuck may be in the film). Anyone had good luck with a pattern of this type?

I am wondering if a double tippet could be made to the midge a few inches from the shuck?   Put a hook in both if the trout cannot make up its mind.  Be interesting to see if the shuck or the midge get hit on most often. here a change to come up with a new pattern.  And we wonder where did they all come from.  :-)   Happy new year!

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The thing I’m looking for is a pattern that imitates  the midge during those

 few seconds that it sits dry on the surface, but is still attached to the shuck… I use your typical Griffith’s Gnat tied w/ a small plume of grey CDC feathers as a tail to imitate the trailing shuck.

Yours virtually, Gary W. Godden Denver, Colorado

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m a lover of spring creek midge fishing.  While I’m doing well on my pupae, I still can’t find a dry pattern that will consistently (or even semi-regularly) fool the surface sippers..  The thing I’m looking for is a pattern that imitates  the midge during those few seconds that it sits dry on the surface, but is still attached to the shuck…apparently the moment of greatest vulnerability.  Both the midge and the shuck or on the surface (shuck may be in the film). Anyone had good luck with a pattern of this type? I am wondering if a double tippet could be made to the midge a few inches from the shuck?   Put a hook in both if the trout cannot make up its mind.  Be interesting to see if the shuck or the midge get hit on most often. here a change to come up with a new pattern.  And we wonder where did they all come from.  :-)   Happy new year!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out here in Colorado we use something called a Stuck-In -Shuck midge.  It’s a good slow-water fly on the South Platte where winter trout seem to sometimes prefer emerging midges over full adults. The dressing is simple.  The tail, or "shuck" is a few strands of brown antron, or Z-lon. the body is thread, or peacock.  A few strands of white antron, Z-lon, or poly are tied in at the butt, and pulled over the body. This should be a little on the loose side, creating a kind of bubble.  Some people put a couple wraps of grizzly hackle, trimmed top, and bottom in front for better floatation.  This fly should be dressed to let the fly float in the film. I don’t know who dreamt this fly up, but I think it’s a pretty good one! Chaz — Chaz Clover Fly Tier, Fly Design, Riverkeeper.

I fish the tiny spring creeks in WI and the best surface/film pattern that I have tried is nothing radical: Griffith’s Gnat. I tie it on a size 22 wide gap 1XF hook. Peacock Body (short flue, taken from near the butt rather than the eye) and Top Quality (Hoffman) Grizzly also short (no longer than to point). Fished on 6X tippet with silicon paste applied on 3 inches about 6 inches from the fly. this: a. keeps it on top, b. if you position yourself just right it acts a an indicator, and c. allows the fly to move naturally. I don’t apply floatant to the fly as it makes it ride too high causing for short hits. Quarter it upstream and dead drift. Good Luck.

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: I’m a lover of spring creek midge fishing.  While I’m doing well on my : pupae, I still can’t find a dry pattern that will consistently (or even : semi-regularly) fool the surface sippers..  The thing I’m looking for is a : pattern that imitates  the midge during those few seconds that it sits dry : on the surface, but is still attached to the shuck…apparently the moment : of greatest vulnerability.  Both the midge and the shuck or on the surface : (shuck may be in the film). : Anyone had good luck with a pattern of this type? I do quite a bit of midge fishing, especially late in the season as it gets colder.  I’ve found that a #26 or 28 works very well for the large (but oh so rare) browns here in VT.  I don’t use a trailing shuck pattern, however.  I use a simple black or red thread body (no tail) with a grizzly, black, or cream hackle.  The red body is easy to spot, and it seems to work!  I rarely get refused with this pattern, and it’s very simple to tie.  In addition, it feeds my growing opinion that the presentation is (slightly?) more important than the fly choice (please, no flame wars on this one, both are important!)   I don’t usually fish this one blind, and not at long distances (usually about 20-25′).  I find that 7 or 8X tippets make sense, as well as a challenge for a big fish. Hans

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I’m a lover of spring creek midge fishing.  While I’m doing well on my pupae, I still can’t find a dry pattern that will consistently (or even semi-regularly) fool the surface sippers..  The thing I’m looking for is a pattern that imitates  the midge during those few seconds that it sits dry on the surface, but is still attached to the shuck…apparently the moment of greatest vulnerability.  Both the midge and the shuck or on the surface (shuck may be in the film). Anyone had good luck with a pattern of this type?

Response:

Out here in Colorado we use something called a Stuck-In -Shuck midge.  It’s a good slow-water fly on the South Platte where winter trout seem to sometimes prefer emerging midges over full adults. The dressing is simple.  The tail, or "shuck" is a few strands of brown antron, or Z-lon. the body is thread, or peacock.  A few strands of white antron, Z-lon, or poly are tied in at the butt, and pulled over the body. This should be a little on the loose side, creating a kind of bubble.  Some people put a couple wraps of grizzly hackle, trimmed top, and bottom in front for better floatation.  This fly should be dressed to let the fly float in the film. I don’t know who dreamt this fly up, but I think it’s a pretty good one! Chaz — Chaz Clover Fly Tier, Fly Design, Riverkeeper.

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