Question:

Does Dwight Lyons have a web site? Big Dale

Brain fart on my part, sorry I did not post it originally. http://www.teleport.com/~lyons/ — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

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Now that I’ve gotten a couple of years fishing under my belt, I’ve determined that I like fishing a slower action rod.   Short of purchasing a bamboo rod, I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight.

Hey maybe you can find a fiberglass rod you like, then you can really save some bucks.  I think Winston makes some, but that’s not exactly what I had in mind by saving a few bucks Regards, Jeff

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Short of purchasing a bamboo rod, I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight.

Don’t try a Scott G-series rod unless you are willing to spend a few bucks. Big Dale

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ROFFians: Now that I’ve gotten a couple of years fishing under my belt, I’ve determined that I like fishing a slower action rod. Short of purchasing a bamboo rod, I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight. Thanks much!

If money is no object and you want graphite there are only three choices inspite of all the suggestions you have recieved… They would be the: Winston Tom Morgan Favorite 8′ Four weight or any other Winston IM6 Series Trout rod. (note the 5 pc models are not moderate) Thomas and Thomas Paradigm Series Scott Powerply Series Money an object look at the Orvis Silver Label Mid Flex or if you want to try Glass Winston, Hardy, and Scott make nice ones but I recommend some glass rods sold by a Cane Rod maker in Oregon named Dwight Lyons. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

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I agree with Ken and Peter on the Orvis Superfine/Silver Label full flex models.  I have a Silver Label 792 (2wt, 7′9") and absolutely love it.  Like you, I prefer more moderate actions.  Some of the full flex versions of the Silver Labels are the exact same blank as the more expensive Superfines. Winston, T&T, Scott, Powell etc. are all outstanding though they will severely lighten the wallet. Another one worth checking into is the Sage DS2 series…..maybe a bit faster than the Orvis full flex models but still quite moderate. Tight Lines! Natty

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Janik) … I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight. Orvis Superfine (save some bucks and get the Silver Label version).     – Ken I second this – Orvis Far n’ Fine 7′ 9" in the silver label version – not expensive, unconditional warranty and one of the best all-round trout rods ever made for small to mid sized streams.  Throws a DT-4 quite well too.  We’ve had five of this series in the family and only one was less than satisfactory (3 wt. Tippet.)  If you’re interested in a 4 wt., then try the 7/11. If you’re planning on spending a bit more and fishing small streams then the Hardy Perfection E Glass 4 wt. 7′ 6" should be on your list. Walt at ezflyfish.com can give you the details.  I have the 6′ 6" 3 wt. version – fabulous little rod for tight, little streams.  I hear that its bigger brother is just as nice. Scott, Winston, and East Branch all have very good rods with medium – slow action as well. Peter

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How slow is slow?  I have a Sage DS that I love.  It is listed as a "medium" action, I think, by Sage.  It is slower that any other Sage other than the discontinued LL series.  The price for a 4 piece is about $250.00.  A great rod to try. Chris Brown

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some glass rods sold by a Cane Rod maker in Oregon named Dwight Lyons.

Does Dwight Lyons have a web site? Big Dale

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Hi All, This is a common thing in trout fly fishing. Normally, the more you fish, the better you cast. Now you can cast slower rods, so you move more in that direction. Most will cast the lightest, softest rod that will allow them to get the fly to the fish. This will allow you to land larger fish on lighter tippets.  This is not true for everyone, but it is a standard event around our shop in Sacramento, California, USA. Some softer rods: Loomis GL2, Sage SPL, Sage SP, Winston IM6, Scott G series……. Many companies will have a faster series and a slower series like ‘Thomas & Thomas’. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ROFFians: Now that I’ve gotten a couple of years fishing under my belt, I’ve determined that I like fishing a slower action rod. Short of purchasing a bamboo rod, I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight. Thanks much!

Response:

ROFFians: Now that I’ve gotten a couple of years fishing under my belt, I’ve determined that I like fishing a slower action rod.   Short of purchasing a bamboo rod, I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight. Thanks much!

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… I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight.

Winston. — Ken Fortenberry

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I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight.

Scott G Series are moderate action and their Fibertouch are slow. — Charlie…

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… I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight.

Orvis Superfine (save some bucks and get the Silver Label version).      - Ken — "If any of you cry at my funeral, I’ll never speak to you again!"                                      - Stan Laurel

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… I would appreciate hearing any suggestions on manufacturers who make rods that that have a slower action.  It would most likely be a 4 or 5 weight. Orvis Superfine (save some bucks and get the Silver Label version).     – Ken

I second this – Orvis Far n’ Fine 7′ 9" in the silver label version – not expensive, unconditional warranty and one of the best all-round trout rods ever made for small to mid sized streams.  Throws a DT-4 quite well too.  We’ve had five of this series in the family and only one was less than satisfactory (3 wt. Tippet.)  If you’re interested in a 4 wt., then try the 7/11. If you’re planning on spending a bit more and fishing small streams then the Hardy Perfection E Glass 4 wt. 7′ 6" should be on your list. Walt at ezflyfish.com can give you the details.  I have the 6′ 6" 3 wt. version – fabulous little rod for tight, little streams.  I hear that its bigger brother is just as nice. Scott, Winston, and East Branch all have very good rods with medium – slow action as well. Peter

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Question:

Has anyone had any experience with the Winston and Sage 5 piece rods that they would like to share, characteristics / advantages of one over the other, etc.?  I’m specifically interested in the 6W as I’m planning a trip to New Zealand where I’m told the wind blows fierce and the fish are big enough to warrant it.  I’m living overseas (Japan) traveling a lot, and having a rod I can toss into a suitcase or duffel with a reel and a box of flies could make the difference between fishing and not on a given trip.  Please answer via direct e-mail as I do not get a chance to go through the forum as often as I would like.  Thanks in advance. Dean Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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My first home rolled rod was built on a 3-piece Winston blank. To my way of thinking, the 3pc. broken-down length was ideal… not quite a suitcase rod, but small enough to fit into the overhead compartment on an airplane. & it was a Winston… Unfortunately, I slipped on an icy rock while attempting some winter fishing and shattered the butt section beyond repair. I’ve made a couple of other 2pc. fly rods since, but they don’t hold a candle to the Winston. my  $.20 Robert Hudson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had any experience with the Winston and Sage 5 piece rods that they would like to share, characteristics / advantages of one over the other, etc.?  I’m specifically interested in the 6W as I’m planning a trip to New Zealand where I’m told the wind blows fierce and the fish are big enough to warrant it.  I’m living overseas (Japan) traveling a lot, and having a rod I can toss into a suitcase or duffel with a reel and a box of flies could make the difference between fishing and not on a given trip.  Please answer via direct e-mail as I do not get a chance to go through the forum as often as I would like.  Thanks in advance. I have a Sage 5-piece, 5-weight. SP and all I can say is that it’s one sweet MF. I needed a pack rod, and I tried various 3-piece and 4-piece rods, but none was better than this one. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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Has anyone had any experience with the Winston and Sage 5 piece rods that they would like to share, characteristics / advantages of one over the other, etc.?  I’m specifically interested in the 6W as I’m planning a trip to New Zealand where I’m told the wind blows fierce and the fish are big enough to warrant it.  I’m living overseas (Japan) traveling a lot, and having a rod I can toss into a suitcase or duffel with a reel and a box of flies could make the difference between fishing and not on a given trip.  Please answer via direct e-mail as I do not get a chance to go through the forum as often as I would like.  Thanks in advance.

I have a Sage 5-piece, 5-weight. SP and all I can say is that it’s one sweet MF. I needed a pack rod, and I tried various 3-piece and 4-piece rods, but none was better than this one. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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Question:

Answer: Light, "approach" footwear. WPB Bivy sack. Minimum required sleeping bag. Water bladder with tube and bite valve. Dehydrated or freeze dried foods. Sloppy carbohydrates like candy bars etc. Water filter. First aid kit. Single burner stove that uses those small butane cartridges. Insulated plastic. mug and bowl. cheap plastic camera Use a pack just big enough to fit these and whatever else you NEED to carry. Oh. And "high speed film" :^) good luck jr

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Anyone here fastpack (overnight backpacking trips where the idea is to cover alot of ground quickly…30 miles or more a day) If so, what does a standard overnight gear list look like? Thanks.

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… fastpack (overnight backpacking trips where the idea is to cover alot of ground quickly…30 miles or more a day)

… Hmmm. Never heard of it. What’s the point? Is it a race of some sort? Do people compete for prizes? Details, please. — Jeff ORBS Classifieds – Free outdoor classified ads     http://home.pacbell.net/orbs ORBS Escrow – Affordable safety for online buyers and sellers     http://home.pacbell.net/orbs/oe-homepage.html

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… fastpack (overnight backpacking trips where the idea is to cover alot of ground quickly…30 miles or more a day) … Hmmm. Never heard of it. What’s the point? Is it a race of some sort? Do people compete for prizes? Details, please.

The point is just the same as normal backpacking, but just at a faster pace ( and less equipment to keep up the pace) for people who either like more of a challenge or perhaps get bored with a walking pace. I’ve never tried it

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Hmmm. Never heard of it. What’s the point? Is it a race of some sort? Do people compete for prizes? Details, please.

I’ve heard of it being done to hike long trails (200 miles +) within a limited timeframe. A prime example would be the Pacific Crest Trail. Anyone wanting to hike the entire trail would want to start late enough to miss most of the Sierra snowpack, and early enough to finish before winter storms hit the north Cascades. To do this, you have to hike over 20 miles a day. I suggest checking out Ray Jardine’s The Pacific Crest Trail Hiker’s Handbook. Also take a look at http://www.backpacking.net/bbs.html –Scott

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … fastpack (overnight backpacking trips where the idea is to cover alot of ground quickly…30 miles or more a day) … Hmmm. Never heard of it. What’s the point? Is it a race of some sort? Do people compete for prizes? Details, please. The point is just the same as normal backpacking, but just at a faster pace ( and less equipment to keep up the pace) for people who either like more of a challenge or perhaps get bored with a walking pace. I’ve never tried it So, the point is to do some flyfishing, relate with the wilderness, see sights that are never seen anywhere else, develop friendships and enjoy the outdoors? How does one do that while covering 30 miles a day? How much distance is covered in one of these sessions, two or three hundred miles? And when does one find time to do these things? I’ll pass. Somehow speedgolf is sounding more sensible. To each his own, I s’pose.

I’d say that you could still enjoy the outdoors while fastpacking, as the enjoyment that you get is all dependant on your personal tastes etc. Friendships could easily be developed, just in the same way as backpacking, and the same sights could be seen. Also I don’t personally take any fishing or fly fishing eqt. with me when I go backpacking, I wouldn’t use up all the space on a kitbox etc. But as you say, each to his own, and as a matter of fact I don’t go fastpacking anyway, I just personally see how some of your points are justified, but I’m not looking for a big flaming/ argument here, there are just 2 slightly conflicting opinions.

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Question:

Hi everybody, I am an Italian brand new member of AOPA USA with an FAA PPL license. I am actually planning a flying journey in the Western states with a friend of mine. I will take off from Los Angeles on next July 1st and the goal is to fly northbound through Central and Northern California, Oregon, Washington State, Seattle, up to Vancouver and back to LAX. The trip will last no more than 16 days, and it

Question:

Hi Jerry, I am from Co fermanagh in the North, but live in Scotland.  I can give you loads of info if you’re interested.Where are you??  Gillaroo

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Planning a couple of weeks touring in Ireland, late August …..looking for suggested sites for short (1/2 day or full day)…lake or river…flyfishing….Prefer an area where there are gardens and stuff for my wife to see while I fish……plan to stay a few days in each of several areas of the country, and fish leisurely as a part…not the entire purpose…of my trip. Will take a 6 wgt. rod and my stuff…but need a guide, local flies etc etc. Recommendations? Thanks in advance, Jerry Greenhoot

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before? Thanks very much, Dan Please reply to group

Dan, This time of the year you want to fish very early or very late in the day….most trout I know take long siestas when the water warms up during the day. The patterns you are using are fine…I might add a black ant and a yellow sally to your arsenal. Good luck…. –Walt

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have very good luck with elk hair caddis. I fish Tremont usually in the afternoon but not always. And don’t forget those wooly buggers! Bryce I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before?

Hi! Tremont should be good early in the morning or late at night. I stay away from the lower portion of Deep Creek this time of the year, due to all  the tourists and tubers. Go above Indian creek. Also try West prong of Little River while you are over in that area. Go backcountry away from Laurel creek rd. Try a Thunderhead dry, it’s a NC pattern that’s very similar to an Adams Wulff. Hans

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have very good luck with elk hair caddis. I fish Tremont usually in the afternoon but not always. And don’t forget those wooly buggers! Bryce I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before? Hi! Tremont should be good early in the morning or late at night. I stay away from the lower portion of Deep Creek this time of the year, due to all  the tourists and tubers. Go above Indian creek. Also try West prong of Little River while you are over in that area. Go backcountry away from Laurel creek rd. Try a Thunderhead dry, it’s a NC pattern that’s very similar to an Adams Wulff. Hans

I fished Deep Creek a coupla years ago and ran across a native of the area who was having great luck on a parachute Adams morning and late afternoon.  I might add that he was quite stealthy and could read water very well.

Response:

I have very good luck with elk hair caddis. I fish Tremont usually in the afternoon but not always. And don’t forget those wooly buggers! Bryce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before?

Response:

Thanks to all who replied to my original post.  Your advice will be very helpful.  I plan to spend the next couple of days on Deep Creek, so I will try to give you a report (to the group) next week.   Thanks again, Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have very good luck with elk hair caddis. I fish Tremont usually in the afternoon but not always. And don’t forget those wooly buggers! Bryce I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before? Hi! Tremont should be good early in the morning or late at night. I stay away from the lower portion of Deep Creek this time of the year, due to all  the tourists and tubers. Go above Indian creek. Also try West prong of Little River while you are over in that area. Go backcountry away from Laurel creek rd. Try a Thunderhead dry, it’s a NC pattern that’s very similar to an Adams Wulff. Hans I fished Deep Creek a coupla years ago and ran across a native of the area who was having great luck on a parachute Adams morning and late afternoon.  I might add that he was quite stealthy and could read water very well.

Response:

I have only been flyfishing for a few months, most of my trips have been in the Townsend area of the Smokies.  I have fished the Tremont (Middle Prong of Little River)  area several times with limited success.  I have the opportunity this weekend to fish Deep Creek (Bryson City, NC) and I have decided to swallow my pride and ask for advice here so I hopefully won’t get "blanked" and ruin my vacation!  For Tremont, I have used 6X tippets and patterns of caddis, adams, black gnats, beadhead phesant tail nymph. My specific questions:  What time of day should be the most successful in either of these areas (Tremont or Deep Creek)?  What patterns are most effective for Deep Creek?  Any advice on presentation to these skittish mountain trout?  Any particular areas of Deep Creek that anyone has had experience fishing before? Thanks very much, Dan Please reply to group

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Question:

I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use.

Call the company that made the blank, and speak to one of their rod builders.  They will tell you the spacing for that rod, and it will be more accurate than any generalized formula.  Then, if you want to be really sure, tape the guides on and test before you do any wrapping. CQ

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don All MEASUREMENTS are in INCHES from the tip down. This example is for 1 stripping and 8 snake guides. TIP 4 8 14 21 29 37 45 and a half 54 65 (stripping) You might also consider picking up a book on rod making, this will ensure that you tune your rod for the best performance. In addition, don’t be afraid to add 1 or 2 snake guides, this will give you better line control, and increase your distance on your cast. You Also find that, mending your line on the water is alot better too.For components, I would probably use standard snake guides and ceramic stripping guides, and a chrome tip top. Talk to a fly shop for these components, or tackle dealer. They can set you up with the right ones that you need. One warning though, some of SCSI, or fuji guides are expensive…….O.K  Neil

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Last time I had trouble with the guide spacing the guide was me and I floated into a sweeper tree and replaced everybody’s hat with a large, pissed-off water spider. Dave

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Contact Blue Ridge Rod Company at (410) 224-4072. Their catalog has a guide psacing chart for rods from 6′6" to 10". Good source of info in general. Good wrapping! Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don

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I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don

Response:

Don:      The guide spacing charts are okay for starters, but you really want to try the "fit" before you actually wrap them. I use masking tape to hold them in place and then actually cast the rod to see how it sets up. When flexed, you don’t want too much of an angle between the guides, and conversely, you also do not want too many guides, as they will slow the line down. Also, an oversized stripping guide may improve the line flow when casting. Try it first, and then do your wrapping. Good luck! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don

Response:

I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don

Don: The Dale Clemens book on rod building has formulas which will get you close to the correct spacing.  You could also take a tape measure into a local flyshop to get measurements off a factory rod.  Initially, you will want to tape the guides on, then string the rod up to give it a ’stress test’ ( i.e. anchor the butt against a wall or have someone hold it while you bend the rod with the line as if a fish were on ).  Adjust the guide positions to minimize the distance between the line and the rod.  You may find that an extra guide is needed, especially near the tip.  ( This test is a good idea even if you have the factory recommended spacing for your blank. ) Also, while the guides are taped on, take the rod out and cast it to see how it feels.  At this point you can experiment with the position of the stripping guide by putting it as far up the rod as it will go before you start getting ‘line slap’.  The higher up it is, the less drag you’ll have. As far as component size goes, consider using guides a little larger than normal as suggested by LA Garcia.  This is especially important with the stripping guide.  Your rod may not look as sleek as factory rods, but you’ll cut down on drag through the guides when you’re casting. Good luck! Dave Welch

Response:

Don, According to a guide spacing and sizing chart I received from Powell Rod Co. you would need  two 1/0, three 1, one 2, one 3, one #8, and one #10. Spacing is by inches from the tip top to the toe of the rear foot of each guide. 5", 10", 16", 23 1/8", 30 1/2", 38 1/4, 46 1/2", 55 1/2", 66 1/4". If this spacing doesn’t work out for you, usually the rod blank manufacturer can supply you with a spacing chart. Good luck to you. Shad Sterzick Gulpers Fly Fishing Outfitters http://www.xmission.com/~gulpers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m building an 8 ft, 6 weight, 3 piece fly rod. I haven’t been able to find any guild spacing charts that cover this variety. Anyone have any experience with this? I’m also interested in the component types and sizes that you use. Thanks, Don

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Question:

hey   kevin     my name is david and im 14 years old.  Ive never been to st petersburg but ive been to marco island/naples to fish for snook and its really  fun. I went out by a dock and threw my fly in the perfect place and a 10 lbs. snook hit it.   It took me 15-20 mins to get him to the boat and that was one of my favorite fishing trips ever. I hope have fun and catch a big one when you go on your trip. david screen name: snookage

Response:

I like it when they blast out of the water after a take. I caught one down in the glades that I thought was a posiden when it came out of the water. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hey   kevin     my name is david and im 14 years old.  Ive never been to st petersburg but ive been to marco island/naples to fish for snook and its really  fun. I went out by a dock and threw my fly in the perfect place and a 10 lbs. snook hit it.   It took me 15-20 mins to get him to the boat and that was one of my favorite fishing trips ever. I hope have fun and catch a big one when you go on your trip. david screen name: snookage

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Question:

I have a ton of Ruffed Grouse feathers. What do flies do you use it for? Thanks!

Response:

I have a ton of Ruffed Grouse feathers. What do flies do you use it for? Thanks!

See Sylvester Neme’s book The Soft Hackled Fly.  One grouse will go a very long way:  hackles for motion (rather than colour) and "filoplumes" for gills on large nymphs, but not much more:  Quill and tail fibres are commonly too small to use like pheasant. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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I have a ton of Ruffed Grouse feathers. What do flies do you use it for? Thanks! See Sylvester Neme’s book The Soft Hackled Fly.  One grouse will go a very long way:  hackles for motion (rather than colour) and "filoplumes" for gills on large nymphs, but not much more:  Quill and tail fibres are commonly too small to use like pheasant.

Might try crossposting it to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying, those guys’ll be able to help you over there, tell ‘em TBone sent ya. 8{)…. However, my very favorite wet fly, The Breadcrust, uses Grouse tail exclusively.  What a fly ! TimW

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I have a ton of Ruffed Grouse feathers. What do flies do you use it for? Thanks!

Hi Ronald, I use grouse feathers for soft hackle flies.  I particularly like them on a bead head Hare’s Ear Softhackle.  TIP:  If you have trouble finding feathers small enough to tie #18 and smaller, you can take the fibers from a larger feather and spin them around the hook like you would spin deer hair.  In so doing you have soft hackle for just about any sized fly. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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Question:

I will be fishing with a guide May 18, 19 and 20, but my flight arrives in Key West the afternoon before and I don’t want to waste it. Can anyone reccomend a wading spot in the Key West area? I have never been that far down the keys. Thanks.

I, too, plan on visiting the Keys to do some fly fishing.  I won