Question:

We are planning a trip to the Laguna Madre late summer early fall.  Never been before.  Any help on flies, maps, places, etc would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance. Henry

Response:

We are planning a trip to the Laguna Madre late summer early fall.  Never been before.  Any help on flies, maps, places, etc would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance. Henry

Henry, what part of the Laguna Madre are you planning to visit? It runs about 120 miles from Corpus Christi south to the Brazos Santiago Pass at South Padre Island. For great fly fishing adventures, you can’t miss fishing with Capt. Joe Mendez, Capt. Bill Sheka or Capt. Billy Sandifer out of Corpus Christi. Out of Port Mansfield, try Capt. Charlie Buchen or Capt. Terry Neal. Out of  Arroyo City, I highly recommend Capt. Dan Coley and Capt. Rick Hartman.   Out of South Padre and Port Isabel, you can’t miss with Captains Eric Glass, Jim Stewart, Chuck Scates, Richard McInnis or Skipper Ray. Take lots of shrimp patterns and Clousers and have a great adventure. Phil Shook

Response:

Question:

Hello all, I did a search for past messages and didn’t find any help. Could anyone suggest a book(s) for info on flyfishing in Montana? It would be much appreciated. I live in E. Washington and am looking to make a few trips to into Montana this year. The books don’t have to be super-detailed–I’d prefer overviews to an entire book on just one river. However, if the book covered a "region" (like Yellowstone Park), that would be fine. I’m just looking for some basic info on times, hatches, accessability, etc. Thanks! -TyKo

Response:

Flyfisher’s guide to Montana by Greg Thomas is pretty good. The Montana Angling Guide by Fothergill and Sterling is also good. The former has a better narrative and information on lodging, dining, etc. The latter has better maps.  All my opinions, of course. John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all, I did a search for past messages and didn’t find any help. Could anyone suggest a book(s) for info on flyfishing in Montana? It would be much appreciated. I live in E. Washington and am looking to make a few trips to into Montana this year. The books don’t have to be super-detailed–I’d prefer overviews to an entire book on just one river. However, if the book covered a "region" (like Yellowstone Park), that would be fine. I’m just looking for some basic info on times, hatches, accessability, etc. Thanks! -TyKo

Response:

Flyfisher’s guide to Montana by Greg Thomas is pretty good. The Montana Angling Guide by Fothergill and Sterling is also good. The former has a better narrative and information on lodging, dining, etc. The latter has better maps.  All my opinions, of course.

I found the latter extremely helpful because of all the pullout maps, in a ring binder format  you can easily lay flat.

Response:

Question:

The drift IS the presentation.

You took the words right out of my mouth.  Maybe he means the cast?? FiddleAway

Response:

The drift IS the presentation. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

yup, you guys are too sharp. <g and…. dang, them oregon rogues (dead guy ale) last night surely worked their magic on this poboy. –ww

Response:

Substitute "fly selection" for "presentation" and I still say Waldo’s dead on right. At least on the wild streams of NC anyway. –Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The drift IS the presentation. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

…. dang, them oregon rogues (dead guy ale) last night surely worked their magic on this poboy.

I like the 22 ouncers.  You can hang the empties on your belt for ballast.  Makes falling into bed (or somewhere near it anyway) a lot easier. Wolfgang and they glow in the dark!!

Response:

some may argue, pointless and without scope i may respectively add, that the drift is secondary to the presentation. i present, wickedly, that the drift is omnipotent. in scope….. jo jo left his home… (sorry, beatles cd in player) argue.. bitch.. cuss if you feel it necessary…. the drift is the cause, the glory, the prescience. doubt? surely you have observed the subtle twitch, the soft turn, the, the… the take…. on the proper drift. been there…. enuff to be comfortable with this knowledge…. –wataugan walt

Response:

TROLL! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – some may argue, pointless and without scope i may respectively add, that the drift is secondary to the presentation. i present, wickedly, that the drift is omnipotent. in scope….. jo jo left his home… (sorry, beatles cd in player) argue.. bitch.. cuss if you feel it necessary…. the drift is the cause, the glory, the prescience. doubt? surely you have observed the subtle twitch, the soft turn, the, the… the take…. on the proper drift. been there…. enuff to be comfortable with this knowledge…. –wataugan walt

Response:

You are right.  The Drift/Mend are one and the same, or put another way, "The Mend" is part of the cast.  I always mend on every cast even if I’m fishing straight down stream. Trust me.  You don’t want to go there.  For example, when one is fly fishing downstream and they lift their fly rod to drag their fly back upstream, that is the cast and then when they pull the fly a little right or left to align the fly along a current seam and then they lower the rod to start the fly drifting down again, that is the mend. Walter, you have it down cold as I know you are a very savvy fly fisherman All’s Fair With Fur or Feather gg

Response:

some may argue, pointless and without scope i may respectively add, that the drift is secondary to the presentation. i present, wickedly, that the drift is omnipotent.

<SNIP Hopefully somebody got your drift. TL MC

Response:

some may argue, pointless and without scope i may respectively add, that the drift is secondary to the presentation. i present, wickedly, that the drift is omnipotent. <SNIP Hopefully somebody got your drift.

The drift…er, well, he sounds like he in his cups, or at least, under the boardwalk, lusting after a rose in Spanish Harlem….well, as long as he doesn’t go up on the roof…. TC, R …down by the sea….

Response:

The drift IS the presentation. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

some may argue, pointless and without scope i may respectively add, that the drift is secondary to the presentation. i present, wickedly, that the drift is omnipotent.

<SNIP Wailing, weeping, moaning, the sounds of weary lamentation, drifting down the stream, result of  fairly wicked presentation, argument and cursing, floating eerily, with but little hope, t

Question:

Fish report from Lake Isabella, California The bass bite is wide open on waterdogs and crawdads. A few fish on the big trout plugs and big plastics. Anglers are reporting catches of 15 to 20 fish per day, mostly in shallow water. Quite a few fish to 10-0 reported. The LakeIsabella Trout Derby will be April 15-17. There continues to be a fair trout bite at the dam. There is also a good catfish bite at Engineer’s Point and dam on shad and clams. Eric Cherry, Bakersfield, caught a stringer of cats from 2-0 to 3-0 on chicken liver and shrimp. Crappie and bluegill still slow. The trout bite remains good at Democrat Dam, Hobo and Richbar areas of the Kern River. DFG plants this week, two weeks ago, and four weeks ago. Salmon eggs, crickets, and nightcrawlers still the best baits, and a variety of lures are working. Also a few cats showing. Nicholas Whitesell, Bakersfield, landed a 5-12 catfish on anchovies. The bass action is also improving in the river with some quality fish showing from the bigger pools. Flows have been 585 to 72Ocfs. Aqueduct: Just fair striper action with a few bigger fish showing on Big Macs or other big plugs and minnows. Some smaller fish on bloodworms. A few cats starting  to show on shad, minnows, and anchovies. Michael Mays, Bakersfield, landed a 16-0 cat on minnows. Carlos Luna, Bakersfield, landed a 16-0 striper on a Castaic Soft Bait bluegill. Posted by: Rex http://www.lakeisabella.net

Response:

Netminder wrote Fish report from Lake Isabella, California

[snip] I tried flyfishing there a week ago (never done that before) and got skunked.  I fished the stickups at the east end of Stine cove. Any recommendations on fly fishing the lake in a float tube?  (besides making sure I’m out of the water before 1 <g): patterns?  … areas? —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Question:

I really don’t like tying much but find it to be the price I pay for pursuing my passion.  I really enjoy fishing beadhead patterns and they are really easy to tie except for one thing…. getting the blankety, blanking bead around the bend in the hook.  I am trying to use too small a bead or is there a secret I am missing out on.  For example I use a 1/8th inch tungsten bead for a size 14 for hook and I pinch the barb before I put the bead on.  Once I get them on, they are easy to secure in place and I like the size of the pattern. Going crazy at the tying bench Mike

Response:

Going crazy at the tying bench

Put the point of the hook in the small side of the hole in the bead and it will turn around the bend easier. — Charlie…

Response:

Put the point of the hook in the small side of the hole in the bead and it will turn around the bend easier.

Yeah…for sure…but some bead diameters will simply not make the bend easily either. Ya gotta just find a combination of bead sizes/hook sizes/bends that works out for ya… — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…" B.M.P.I.A.

Response:

Ya gotta just find a combination of bead sizes/hook sizes/bends that works out for ya…

Which should include a 1/8" bead on a #14 hook… — Charlie…

Response:

I really don’t like tying much but find it to be the price I pay for pursuing my passion.  I really enjoy fishing beadhead patterns and they are really easy to tie except for one thing…. getting the blankety, blanking bead around the bend in the hook.  I am trying to use too small a bead or is there a secret I am missing out on.  For example I use a 1/8th inch tungsten bead for a size 14 for hook and I pinch the barb before I put the bead on.  Once I get them on, they are easy to secure in place and I like the size of the pattern. Going crazy at the tying bench Mike

Some thoughts. Hook type:  Mustad 3906 or 9271 work better than the Tiemco R series or some of the Diaichis as they don’t have a "corner" in the gape. If they almost make it but don’t quite, don’t be afraid to bend the hook slightly.  I put my bead heads on by clamping the shank of the hook in the jaws of my vise with the hook point up then slipping the bead on.  If the bead won’t get past barb, I’ll tap it past by slipping a half-hitch tool over the point and on to the bead, then tapping the other end of the tool to force it past the barb.  If I can get it past the barb but not the bend, I slip the bead on then clamp the point in the vise and pull back slightly on the shank.  Usually the bead then slips around the bend easily and if you don’t pull too hard on the shank, the hook returns to it’s normal shape.  I normally do 10 or 20 at a time before I begin to tie.   To make matters easier, I have an old Integra vise (a Regal knock-off) that clamps and releases with a squeeze of a lever.  Very quick and easy for this sort of thing.  It would be more of a fiddle on the Renzetti. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

<< Hook type:  Mustad 3906 or 9271 work better than the Tiemco R series or some of the Diaichis as they don’t have a "corner" in the gape. I am using a Mustad 39068 hook and I also have the 9271.  I have been bending the hook a bit to get it around the corner but figured that maybe I was going too small on the bead.   Thanks for all the information guys. Mike Mike Wilson Fishing!! What else is there?

Response:

Peter: Thanks for making something easy for the newbies. It is funny how great minds come to the same conclusions…I would hate to admit how many years of frustration it took for my feeble mind to figure all that out. Big Dale

Response:

I use a Tiemco 3761 or 3763 and have no problems whatsoever in getting the bead around the bend. Btw – I have the same Integra, great vise for the money! Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some thoughts. Hook type:  Mustad 3906 or 9271 work better than the Tiemco R series or some of the Diaichis as they don’t have a "corner" in the gape. If they almost make it but don’t quite, don’t be afraid to bend the hook slightly.  I put my bead heads on by clamping the shank of the hook in the jaws of my vise with the hook point up then slipping the bead on.  If the bead won’t get past barb, I’ll tap it past by slipping a half-hitch tool over the point and on to the bead, then tapping the other end of the tool to force it past the barb.  If I can get it past the barb but not the bend, I slip the bead on then clamp the point in the vise and pull back slightly on the shank.  Usually the bead then slips around the bend easily and if you don’t pull too hard on the shank, the hook returns to it’s normal shape.  I normally do 10 or 20 at a time before I begin to tie. To make matters easier, I have an old Integra vise (a Regal knock-off) that clamps and releases with a squeeze of a lever.  Very quick and easy for this sort of thing.  It would be more of a fiddle on the Renzetti. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

<< Hook type:  Mustad 3906 or 9271 work better than the Tiemco R series or some of the Diaichis as they don’t have a "corner" in the gape. I am using a Mustad 39068 hook and I also have the 9271.  I have been bending the hook a bit to get it around the corner but figured that maybe I was going too small on the bead.   Thanks for all the information guys. Mike Mike Wilson Fishing!! What else is there?

BTW, forgot to mention that since dry fly hooks are smaller gauge, slipping on a bead is easier.  Since you’re using a bead, there’s less need for the heavy wire of a 3906B. Peter

Response:

I use a Tiemco 3761 or 3763 and have no problems whatsoever in getting the bead around the bend. Btw – I have the same Integra, great vise for the money! Herman

Ya, it’s the R series that are the pain.  (I’ll never get rid of the Integra despite the worn jaws.) Peter

Response:

Make sure you use beads with the hole countersunk on one side.  You can go mad trying to get beads onto hooks which do not have this countersinking. Use round bend hooks. If necessary bend the hook slightly to facilitate placing the beads. Put the point of the hook in the hole on the small side. If you just wish to use the beads as weight, and for no other reason, use split shot. Clamp these on the hook using a pair of pliers. Do about ten or twelve like this, then mix up a little epoxy and put a tiny drop over the shot. If you want paint them gold or silver when dry. The coloured nail varnish available is good for this. Try bright red and green etc, as well, you might be pleasantly surprised. These things are indestructible, you can use practically any size bead, and they are a lot cheaper than buying the drilled beads, a good thing, as one tends to lose quite a few such weighted flies on various hang-ups. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Another interesting tactic is to use the bead, or split shot, as the thorax of the nymph.  You might want to dub around it a bit or wrap leg hackle, but otherwise just pull the wing case over the bead or shot.  The nymph is proportioned better and weighted the same, yet looks more natural. Regards, Jeff

Response:

Another interesting tactic is to use the bead, or split shot, as the thorax of the nymph.  You might want to dub around it a bit or wrap leg hackle, but otherwise just pull the wing case over the bead

This is the method I use for Mayfly and Stonefly nymphs, and I have been pleased with the results. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

Thanks for the great Idea Mike! I have been using the tungsten beads and whenever I lose one I feel like crying!!! This will be one idea that I will try out this spring and summer for sure. The cost of some of the bead heads is unreal, and when I want to get down fast this should be able to rid some of the excess weight I have on the line. ,many thanks from a newbie Pierre – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Make sure you use beads with the hole countersunk on one side.  You can go mad trying to get beads onto hooks which do not have this countersinking. Use round bend hooks. If necessary bend the hook slightly to facilitate placing the beads. Put the point of the hook in the hole on the small side. If you just wish to use the beads as weight, and for no other reason, use split shot. Clamp these on the hook using a pair of pliers. Do about ten or twelve like this, then mix up a little epoxy and put a tiny drop over the shot. If you want paint them gold or silver when dry. The coloured nail varnish available is good for this. Try bright red and green etc, as well, you might be pleasantly surprised. These things are indestructible, you can use practically any size bead, and they are a lot cheaper than buying the drilled beads, a good thing, as one tends to lose quite a few such weighted flies on various hang-ups. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

If you don’t need the weight, try using glass beads that you can get from a craft store.  I use a clear glass bead to simulate an air bubble under the shell.  I use this mainly in a variation of a Prince Nymph that I tie with a crimson trailing shuck.  Works pretty well in the float tube. Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you just wish to use the beads as weight, and for no other reason, use split shot. Clamp these on the hook using a pair of pliers. Do about ten or twelve like this, then mix up a little epoxy and put a tiny drop over the shot. If you want paint them gold or silver when dry. The coloured nail varnish available is good for this. Try bright red and green etc, as well, you might be pleasantly surprised. These things are indestructible, you can use practically any size bead, and they are a lot cheaper than buying the drilled beads, a good thing, as one tends to lose quite a few such weighted flies on various hang-ups. TL MC

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer. Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ Ha. It gets so hot in Florida that you just have to pop your fish in a bucket with potatoes and carrots and onions, along with some water, and in three hours…you have chowda! — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Do not judge a book by its movie! Three hours?  You’re outa your league here, Harry.  That same bucket sitting on my foredeck in July would give the microwave a run for it’s money.  We’re talkin’ Solar Hell of the first order. Russ

Ahh. But the chowda bucket is sitting in the ice bucket… — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Do these white hairs mean I’m turning blond?!?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer. Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ Ha. It gets so hot in Florida that you just have to pop your fish in a bucket with potatoes and carrots and onions, along with some water, and in three hours…you have chowda! — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Do not judge a book by its movie! Three hours?  You’re outa your league here, Harry.  That same bucket sitting on my foredeck in July would give the microwave a run for it’s money. We’re talkin’ Solar Hell of the first order. Russ Ahh. But the chowda bucket is sitting in the ice bucket… —

Ice?  You can keep ice in the summer?  Ice in the summer doesn’t melt here. As it turns to liquid before your very eyes, what you are in fact witnessing are uncontrollable tears from the pain. Russ

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer. Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ

You are in AZ, right?  I guess I shouldn’t give FL the sole monopoly. I should say they have the monopoly east of the Miss.  I’ve been to San Antonio and Austin in July and August, and that was quite miserable as well.  I have also been to Sacremento and Sonoma in July. It wasn’t very comfortable there, either.  Sorry to not give credit where it is due.  I guess that’s why Death Valley is out there.  Hot as Hades.   Our summer weather is the sort that your glasses fog up as you step out of your air conditioned house or car.  The humidity causes you to sweat profusely, yet you do not cool off.  Your body’s cooling mechanism doesn’t work because you cannot evaporate any sweat.  When I went to California, it was much hotter, and I no doubt sweated, but I didn’t notice it as much because the sweat would actually evaporate.   I guess the moral is at the end of the day, it doesn’t much matter if you are in CA or NC, you had better drink lots of fluids in the hot months.  Heatstroke doesn’t have a monopoly on geography. Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

Response:

Small word of warning.  I got the bimini with mine and found that certain points were held with screws.  They vibrated loose during the first trailer ride and I almost lost the bimini (which would really have sucked for the tailgater behind me <g).  

<snip And then again, how ’bout a quick-release mechanism triggered from the driver’s seat for those moments when you just can’t take the idiot behind you any more?

Response:

Not the rails.  It was the screws that hold the joints of the bimini frame together.  These are the joints where the frame folds.  I guess they thought it would be too difficult to get bolt tightness light enough to allow the joints to fold, while keeping the nut tight enough to not come off.  Using a regular nut and lock washer, followed by the nylok, allows you to set the inner nut loose enough to allow folding, while tightening the nylok against the inner nut holds it exactly in place. – Bud — Bud Feuless & Miki Magara-Feuless

Response:

I was crossing the Galveston Causeway and coming onto I-45 with Ken and Barbie in a red Mustang tailgating me badly.  I am still not sure if it was Divine or Satanic intervention that made a wooden paddle I had accidentally forgotten in the cockpit of my boat fly out and head right for his windshield.  It just missed him, but scared the crap out of both of us.  I’m very careful about no loose items when trailering now.  Maybe he also tailgates a bit less… – Bud — Bud Feuless & Miki Magara-Feuless

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jeff; Small word of warning.  I got the bimini with mine and found that certain points were held with screws.  They vibrated loose during the first trailer ride and I almost lost the bimini (which would really have sucked for the tailgater behind me <g).  I replaced them with a bolt with a lock washer, bolt, and nylock cap nut and they’ve never come loose since (5 years). Regards, Bud — Bud Feuless & Miki Magara-Feuless

Thanks, Bud. My dealer is installing the bimini.  I’ll be sure to check how they mount the rails. Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

Response:

Jeff; Small word of warning.  I got the bimini with mine and found that certain points were held with screws.  They vibrated loose during the first trailer ride and I almost lost the bimini (which would really have sucked for the tailgater behind me <g).  I replaced them with a bolt with a lock washer, bolt, and nylock cap nut and they’ve never come loose since (5 years). Regards, Bud — Bud Feuless & Miki Magara-Feuless

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You are in AZ, right?  I guess I shouldn’t give FL the sole monopoly. I should say they have the monopoly east of the Miss.  I’ve been to San Antonio and Austin in July and August, and that was quite miserable as well.  I have also been to Sacremento and Sonoma in July. It wasn’t very comfortable there, either.  Sorry to not give credit where it is due.  I guess that’s why Death Valley is out there.  Hot as Hades. Our summer weather is the sort that your glasses fog up as you step out of your air conditioned house or car.  The humidity causes you to sweat profusely, yet you do not cool off.  Your body’s cooling mechanism doesn’t work because you cannot evaporate any sweat.  When I went to California, it was much hotter, and I no doubt sweated, but I didn’t notice it as much because the sweat would actually evaporate. I guess the moral is at the end of the day, it doesn’t much matter if you are in CA or NC, you had better drink lots of fluids in the hot months.  Heatstroke doesn’t have a monopoly on geography.

Yeah, AZ is correct.  Been here most of my life.  The Fall, Winter, and Spring are beautiful, but you pay for them with Summer.  Summers never used to bother me when I was younger, but they get harder to deal with every year.  I do think the dry heat is more tolerable than the wet stuff, but it’s still hot.  Congratulations on your new boat.  I bet you can’t wait to get it wet. Russ

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer. Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ Ha. It gets so hot in Florida that you just have to pop your fish in a bucket with potatoes and carrots and onions, along with some water, and in three hours…you have chowda! — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Do not judge a book by its movie!

Three hours?  You’re outa your league here, Harry.  That same bucket sitting on my foredeck in July would give the microwave a run for it’s money.  We’re talkin’ Solar Hell of the first order. Russ

Response:

When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer. Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ

Ha. It gets so hot in Florida that you just have to pop your fish in a bucket with potatoes and carrots and onions, along with some water, and in three hours…you have chowda! — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Do not judge a book by its movie!

Response:

When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.

Uh, not to intrude, but I can speak with absolute authority that the great state of Florida does *not* have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  I am happy to report that there is robust competition for miserable summer heat.  Ours is just the dry variety.  Not unlike the kind you would roast a turkey in. Russ

Response:

I saw your model Scout yesterday at a dealer’s I was visiting. It certainly fulfilled my expectation as a really good boat, sturdily built, with good finish work and lots of nice features. What kind of performance do you anticipate from the 150? Also, consider a stainless steel framed bimini rather than a tee-top. I’ll be glad to discuss this with you. — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Take a BIG bite out of crime….arrest the Republican Congress.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I did not get the t-top.  It was expensive, and there may be areas that I will fish that I would not want a t-top.  I went with the bimini, mounted on a track.  At the boat shows here in Raleigh, there were about four different top manufacturer’s, so I can always add an aftermarket t-top if I find I use the boat mostly offshore.  The top may also restrict access under some bridges.  Casting with a couple guys in the boat may also get a little "hairy" (no pun intended) with the t-top. As always, Harry, I am interested in hearing your reasons for the boat sans t-top.  An obvious drawback to the bimini vs. t-top is that 360 degree fishability becomes more difficult with the top up. I think it depends on where you fish and how. Florida gets brutally hot in the summer and, if you are fishing, ducking under a bimini provides great relief. The shaded area provided by a tee-top is much much smaller, so that only a couple of fishermen can find relief. If you trailer a lot, you’ll find that the tee-top creates a lot of drag at highway speeds. Tee-tops have a lot of advantages, too, of course. Up on the Chesapeake, most of the fishing seems to be trolling, chum and some bottom, all done from the back of the boat without interference from a bimini. If I want to fly fish and the bimini is down, I can cast in any direction without snagging the uprights of a tee-top. When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  It would love to find some type of top that is a cross between a t-top and a bimini.  A top that allows 360* fishability, yet is stowable when you need to take it out.  I imagine some sort of t-top with bolted flange connections that you can unbolt when you don’t want the top on.  Ever seen anything like that? Also curious, Harry.  Are you looking at buying a Scout? Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

No. I’m mildly interested in another brand of boat, but the dealer that handles that one also handles Scout and Grady-White. If I were in the market for another center console, I’d give Scout real serious consideration. Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Budget: A method for going broke methodically.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I did not get the t-top.  It was expensive, and there may be areas that I will fish that I would not want a t-top.  I went with the bimini, mounted on a track.  At the boat shows here in Raleigh, there were about four different top manufacturer’s, so I can always add an aftermarket t-top if I find I use the boat mostly offshore.  The top may also restrict access under some bridges.  Casting with a couple guys in the boat may also get a little "hairy" (no pun intended) with the t-top. As always, Harry, I am interested in hearing your reasons for the boat sans t-top.  An obvious drawback to the bimini vs. t-top is that 360 degree fishability becomes more difficult with the top up. I think it depends on where you fish and how. Florida gets brutally hot in the summer and, if you are fishing, ducking under a bimini provides great relief. The shaded area provided by a tee-top is much much smaller, so that only a couple of fishermen can find relief. If you trailer a lot, you’ll find that the tee-top creates a lot of drag at highway speeds. Tee-tops have a lot of advantages, too, of course. Up on the Chesapeake, most of the fishing seems to be trolling, chum and some bottom, all done from the back of the boat without interference from a bimini. If I want to fly fish and the bimini is down, I can cast in any direction without snagging the uprights of a tee-top.

When I went on an offshore charter in Key West in September, I learned about "brutally hot."  I thought it was bad in NC!  You guys have a monopoly on "miserable" in the heat of summer.  It would love to find some type of top that is a cross between a t-top and a bimini.  A top that allows 360* fishability, yet is stowable when you need to take it out.  I imagine some sort of t-top with bolted flange connections that you can unbolt when you don’t want the top on.  Ever seen anything like that? Also curious, Harry.  Are you looking at buying a Scout? Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

Response:

I did not get the t-top.  It was expensive, and there may be areas that I will fish that I would not want a t-top.  I went with the bimini, mounted on a track.  At the boat shows here in Raleigh, there were about four different top manufacturer’s, so I can always add an aftermarket t-top if I find I use the boat mostly offshore.  The top may also restrict access under some bridges.  Casting with a couple guys in the boat may also get a little "hairy" (no pun intended) with the t-top. As always, Harry, I am interested in hearing your reasons for the boat sans t-top.  An obvious drawback to the bimini vs. t-top is that 360 degree fishability becomes more difficult with the top up.

I think it depends on where you fish and how. Florida gets brutally hot in the summer and, if you are fishing, ducking under a bimini provides great relief. The shaded area provided by a tee-top is much much smaller, so that only a couple of fishermen can find relief. If you trailer a lot, you’ll find that the tee-top creates a lot of drag at highway speeds. Tee-tops have a lot of advantages, too, of course. Up on the Chesapeake, most of the fishing seems to be trolling, chum and some bottom, all done from the back of the boat without interference from a bimini. If I want to fly fish and the bimini is down, I can cast in any direction without snagging the uprights of a tee-top.

Response:

I saw your model Scout yesterday at a dealer’s I was visiting. It certainly fulfilled my expectation as a really good boat, sturdily built, with good finish work and lots of nice features.

Glad you liked it, Harry.  I looked at boats for a year and stumbled upon Scout at a boat show.  After seeing so many boats, and then getting disgusted with a designer (scratching my head saying, "why in the heck did they put that there?"), the Scout was the answer.   Things are in the right places.  Not only does it have jump seats in the back, it has grab rails for the people in the seat.  That plastic cover for the electronics box?  No need to just toss it in the console and get it all scratched up, Scout machined two pieces of plastic with slots that accept the cover.  Bilge?  You can actually open a small hatch and get your arms down in there to change seacocks, pumps, switches, etc.  Oh, they also gel coat the interior of the bilge (AND the compartment below the console).  Fuel?  No problem.  It holds 92 gallons, plenty for a 20′ CC.  Electronics?  Circuit breakers, not fuses.  Switches?  Mounted on the underside of the aft edge of the console, out of the weather as much as possible. I could go on.  I was, and still am, impressed as hell with the thought and design put into this boat. What kind of performance do you anticipate from the 150?

I tested it with a 150.  The boat, on a river, topped at 51 (boat speedo) with two men and 1/4 tank of fuel.  Here is how Yamaha rates the boat (test performed and certified by Yamaha application engineers): Weight as tested:  3325 lbs (boat, motor, full fuel) Engine:  Yammy, S150TXRW, 150 HP Prop:  13 3/4" X 17", part number 6G5-45978-02-98 Number of people: 2 Seconds to plane:  2.9 Test Conditions: Air temp:  80F Water temp:  74F Elevation:  Sea level Wind velocity:  12 MPH Comments:  test weight included 40 lb battery, fuel, and 50 lb misc. equipment Performance Data: RPM     MPH     GPH     MPG 1000    7.3     1.1     6.6 2000    10.2    2.7     3.7 3000    24.0    7.5     3.2 4000    33.7    12.3    2.7 5000    41.0    13.4    3.0 5400    46.1    15.7    2.0 Speed data gathered with a Magellan GPS receiver. I am not sure if they tested with a t-top or not.  I would guess not. How is that for a manufacturer giving out information?  Another impressive aspect of Scout.  They respond to emails, usually within two or three days.  Not as fast as I would like, but at least they respond. Also, consider a stainless steel framed bimini rather than a tee-top. I’ll be glad to discuss this with you.

I did not get the t-top.  It was expensive, and there may be areas that I will fish that I would not want a t-top.  I went with the bimini, mounted on a track.  At the boat shows here in Raleigh, there were about four different top manufacturer’s, so I can always add an aftermarket t-top if I find I use the boat mostly offshore.  The top may also restrict access under some bridges.  Casting with a couple guys in the boat may also get a little "hairy" (no pun intended) with the t-top. As always, Harry, I am interested in hearing your reasons for the boat sans t-top.  An obvious drawback to the bimini vs. t-top is that 360 degree fishability becomes more difficult with the top up. My list of options include the swim platform, the bow cushion, and bimini top.  I decided against the leaning post.  After fishing for a season, that may change.  The boat comes with a trailerable cover with a three year warranty at no additional charge.  With the t-top, you don’t get a full cover, only a motor cover. I went to the dealer with a big box full of GPS, VHF, antenna, two antenna rail mounts (gps ant., and vhf ant.), fishfinder, and RAM mounts.  I went with the ram mounts to give a horizontal swivel option in addition to the vertical swivel afforded by the factory mount.  The also allows vertical adjustment within the electronics box.  They are slick!  I also thought that if I want to change from my Garmin 128 GPS to a Lowrance 1600 or equivalent in a few years, I won’t have to drill new holes for the electronics.  I have an appointment for 10 am next Saturday to close the deal and hitch up to my new toy. Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

Response:

To me (Richard may/may not agree), it is not as low as you would think

True, I agree, the freeboard is not really that low that I would worry about it.  There are boats with more (GradyWhite) but I prefer the lower sides. The boat does have toeboards

Yes, I forgot about those.  These features a missing on a lot of boats this size and they are very helpful when things get a rock’n. Richard Daines Ledyard, CT http://www.ctol.net/~rdaines/

Response:

Lower freeboard in the aft of the boat has long been considered an important design feature in larger offshore boats, where a swamped cockpit might sink the boat, if the cockpit could hold enough water vs. the reserve flotation in the bow.  I don’t think this is as much an issue with a boat like a Scout that has level flotation, but it is still helpful if you have to clear the cockpit of a greenie, to have the engine above the waterline.  I take my 162 out regularly to 20-30 miles in 2-4′ seas and further when it is calm.  I’ve never taken a drop of spray.  I don’t, however, have kids, though, if I did, they would not come offshore with me without lifevests and swimming lessons anyhow. Good luck! – Bud — Bud Feuless & Miki Magara-Feuless

Response:

The only thing that bothers me about the looks of the Scout is the apparent low free-board. Does this bother anyone but me or is in my imagination. Is a boat with a low free board less safe in offshore conditions?

Absolutely nothing wrong with the Scout’s freeboard unless you are going to have small children in the boat.  Lower sides aft will not be a problem and will certainly aid in boating large, heavy fish.  The boat is self bailing so if, by chance, water does make it over the side, it will drain out quickly. I am glad to see this thread. I was considering the Scout along with the Aquasport, Pro-Line and Sport-Craft

These are all good boats, buy the one that best suits your needs. For me it was a Scout. Richard Daines Ledyard, CT http://www.ctol.net/~rdaines/

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The only thing that bothers me about the looks of the Scout is the apparent low free-board. Does this bother anyone but me or is in my imagination. Is a boat with a low free board less safe in offshore conditions? Absolutely nothing wrong with the Scout’s freeboard unless you are going to have small children in the boat.  Lower sides aft will not be a problem and will certainly aid in boating large, heavy fish.  The boat is self bailing so if, by chance, water does make it over the side, it will drain out quickly. I am glad to see this thread. I was considering the Scout along with the Aquasport, Pro-Line and Sport-Craft These are all good boats, buy the one that best suits your needs. For me it was a Scout. Richard Daines Ledyard, CT http://www.ctol.net/~rdaines/

In my opinion, the freeboard is somewhat decieving on the Scout. There is a downward curve on the top of the gunwale just aft of the seats.  To me (Richard may/may not agree), it is not as low as you would think as you look at the boat on a trailer.  I would guess the freeboard around the jumpseats is about 24".  Take the boat out for a ride where you plan on using it and decide for yourself.  It may bother you, and it may not.  I would recommend making that decision on the water versus on the dealer’s lot. The boat does have toeboards at the bottom of the rod racks, and that is the area where you would lean over to gaff a big fish or release one.  Locking your feet into the toeboards and leaning against the gunwale gives a secure platform for fighting big fish as well. I certainly agree with Richards last statement.  For me, it was also the Scout. Jeff Sorry, but email address disguised due to unscrupulous spammers.  Please respond in Usenet.

Response:

Question:

Hi everybody, As promised on our web site, you can now have a look on the report about the Fly Fishing World Championship which occured in Jackson hole in september. http://www.infonie.com/public_html/rccb/index.htm

Response:

Hi everybody, As promised on our web site, you can now have a look on the report about the Fly Fishing World Championship which occured in Jackson hole in september. http://www.infonie.com/public_html/rccb/index.htm

Response:

Question:

An all too typical novice question: Present tackle is mainly spinning gear. light rod/reel, 6lb line, used for panfish, trout in samll lakes, bass, etc. Would like to add fly tackle to fish for the same species. Will use the fly tackle here in midwest (SW Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana- lake & small streams) and in Montana, as my son will be in school there(Missoula)and I expect to get there a few times annually. Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

Response:

Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

Hi Barry I recommend you contact your local fly shop and work with them. Cortland has some nice starter fly rods or you might consider a St.Croix or Reddington. Also ask your local fly shop if they rent rods. Most fly shops do rent equipment and also sell that equipment at the end of the season for a reasonable price. Also if you’ve never fly fished before do yourself a big favor and invest in a casting lesson or two. One hour spent with a casting instructor will save you years of trying to learn by yourself. If your local shop does not have an instructor (not very likely) you can contact the Federation of Fly Fishers and get the name of a Certified instructor near you or the name of the affiliate club near you. If you join the club you can learn from a friend. — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products On line catalog – tips & tricks at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -An all too typical novice question: Present tackle is mainly spinning gear. light rod/reel, 6lb line, used for panfish, trout in samll lakes, bass, etc. Would like to add fly tackle to fish for the same species. Will use the fly tackle here in midwest (SW Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana- lake & small streams) and in Montana, as my son will be in school there(Missoula)and I expect to get there a few times annually. Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

I’m sure there are some who will disagree, but check the beginner packages in Cabela’s catalog. They also have higher end stuff. When I started 3 years ago, I purchased a 9′ – 6wt. Pfleuger rod and reel combo for about $120.00. It’s a low-budget set-up but quality enough to let you learn to cast and make a halfway smooth transition to a better rod when your ready. If you go buy a $50.00 rod, it will be harder. I’d recommend spending no more than $200.00 for rod, reel, backing, and line if you’re a beginner. A 30 year flyfisher gave me that advice. I still use that rod, it’s great. Have fun. For what it’s worth, TC

Response:

Question:

I turned back to the 444SL after I tried othrs. The LASER line is very nice to cast and floats very high (makes line pickup easier), but: all this only for a very short time (I used it for only one season!). The hard coating is worn out very fast and you have to replace the line. The Wulf Triangel taper is very nice to fish, too. I used it in the 3/4 and 5/6 weight. Rollcasting is much fun and, especially with the 3/4, presentation of drys to very shy trout is terrific. The disadvantage, especially for the 3/4, is that it is very hard to transport heavier or more wind resistant flies. I now returned to the 444SL which can do the job much better: Very long casts are much easier with the 444SL, rollcasting nearly as good as with the TT, but if the situation requires it, I can also tie on a heavy stremer or a heavy weigthed nymph with a few split shots with still comfortable casting.                             Thomas

Response:

If anyone needs a Cortland Fly line or has any questions about

Response:

I used a 444SL for many trouble-free years.  In fact, I wore it out — the first line that I ever killed.  I’ve been thinking about giving the Lazer line a try, but have been playing around with Lee Wulf’s Triangle taper, as well as a few others.  Give me your pros and cons on the 444SL and the Lazer Line, with regard to durability, floatability.  Thanks.

Response:

I used a 444SL for many trouble-free years.  In fact, I wore it out — the first line that I ever killed.  I’ve been thinking about giving the Lazer line a try, but have been playing around with Lee Wulf’s Triangle taper, as well as a few others.  Give me your pros and cons on the 444SL and the Lazer Line, with regard to durability, floatability.  Thanks.

According to the folks at FEATHER-CRAFT Fly Fishing in St. Louis, 444SL is designed specifically for fast-action rods, is stiffer than most lines and is considered 1/4 weight higher than it’s rating.  The Lazer line are supposed to be best for light action rods because it loads the rod quickly for short casts.  

Response:

Question:

My brothers and I are planning a trip to Wyoming for two days of guided fishing around the Cody area in late April.  As yet, we haven’t planned for the rest of the week.  Does anyone have suggestions for good fishing, accomodations, etc., in other areas of the state.  Thanks for the help. Rob Welch

Response:

My brothers and I are planning a trip to Wyoming for two days of guided fishing around the Cody area in late April.  As yet, we haven’t planned for the rest of the week.  Does anyone have suggestions for good fishing, accomodations, etc., in other areas of the state.  Thanks for the help

HI Rob, April is very early to be fly-fishing in the Cody area.   The only fishing that I know around Cody open that early are the Shoshone river below the Buffalo Bill dam or Newton lake out north of town.  The snow will be melting in the mountains and most of the rivers (Southfork Shoshone, Northfork Shoshone, Clark’s Fork, Sunlight) will be in the runoff mode.   You can check with Tim Wade at the North Fork Anglers to check on what will be good at that particular time. Bassflyfis/AOL Nothing perfect lasts forever.  Except in our memories. (A River Runs Through It.)

Response: