Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Busted Three Forks Rod
This one looks nice, but I have not tried it yet; http://www.gerberblades.com/gerberlegendaryblades.html?07572 As I said, I use mine mainly for work. It has seen very heavy usage, and is still as good as new. The first couple of "leathermans" I tried, were nowhere near as robust. One thing I would advise anybody buying such a tool, is to buy a decent leather sheath for it. The cordura pouches don
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fly caster and baitcaster in same boat-Peacock Bass, help.
Hi Adam, I guess I would try to get in the front of the boat and get the smallest other fisherman in the back in case you have to work him over. I am sure that they have this combo all the time and will work it out for you. Email me a good picture for my web site. Good luck. PS: Have tried fishing Isla Holbox for tarpon yet ? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For the last 12 years almost all my fishing is done with a fly rod (before that it was spinning rod). This includes bass and pickerel (mostly on poppers) in NJ and FL, and saltwater inshore species. For the past two years I’ve been lucky enough to get my ass down to Venezuela for peacock bass on the fly rod (have also been fishing for them in Miami canals for about 9 years). Unbelievable fish and an unbelievable kick, as you know if you’ve fished for these awesome fish. In both instances, I either fish with other fly rodders or fished alone. As I don’t have experience fishing for peacocks out of the same boat with conventional casters, I would like some advise on how best to work things out. In September I’ll be going to Brazil to go after the big guys (upwards to 30#). I don’t know any of the other guys who will be going, but I do know that they will be using regular casting gear (baitcasting and spinning). So here are my questions. I have concerns on how to work it out with whoever I fish with. I know that all day they will be chucking big noise making stuff and will probably be able to cast well over 100′, whereas in order not to rip my arm off, I’ll be casting around 60′ (I can cast further, but not all day with the big flies and poppers I’ll be casting without dislocating my shoulder). This can put me at a great disadvantage in that if the guide holds the boat well off the shore line or fish holding structure, I won’t be able to reach the preferred spots. And, the truth of the matter is as nothing scares the peacocks (like boat engine/motor noise, etc), holding the boat 60′ off the shore or structure wouldn’t make a difference in the catch rate. Of course, casting big distances into open water areas is not a problem. How do you guys feel this can be worked out, or is the problem only in my mind? Also, what about the rate at which the boat moves? Whether I’m in the middle or in the front of the boat, slow moving is better for me as I can’t repeat cast as fast as my partners can. I’m thinking that they might be more used to a faster troll and have problems with this. Your opinions, please. Thanks again, Adam
For the last 12 years almost all my fishing is done with a fly rod (before that it was spinning rod). This includes bass and pickerel (mostly on poppers) in NJ and FL, and saltwater inshore species. For the past two years I’ve been lucky enough to get my ass down to Venezuela for peacock bass on the fly rod (have also been fishing for them in Miami canals for about 9 years). Unbelievable fish and an unbelievable kick, as you know if you’ve fished for these awesome fish. In both instances, I either fish with other fly rodders or fished alone. As I don’t have experience fishing for peacocks out of the same boat with conventional casters, I would like some advise on how best to work things out. In September I’ll be going to Brazil to go after the big guys (upwards to 30#). I don’t know any of the other guys who will be going, but I do know that they will be using regular casting gear (baitcasting and spinning). So here are my questions. I have concerns on how to work it out with whoever I fish with. I know that all day they will be chucking big noise making stuff and will probably be able to cast well over 100′, whereas in order not to rip my arm off, I’ll be casting around 60′ (I can cast further, but not all day with the big flies and poppers I’ll be casting without dislocating my shoulder). This can put me at a great disadvantage in that if the guide holds the boat well off the shore line or fish holding structure, I won’t be able to reach the preferred spots. And, the truth of the matter is as nothing scares the peacocks (like boat engine/motor noise, etc), holding the boat 60′ off the shore or structure wouldn’t make a difference in the catch rate. Of course, casting big distances into open water areas is not a problem. How do you guys feel this can be worked out, or is the problem only in my mind? Also, what about the rate at which the boat moves? Whether I’m in the middle or in the front of the boat, slow moving is better for me as I can’t repeat cast as fast as my partners can. I’m thinking that they might be more used to a faster troll and have problems with this. Your opinions, please. Thanks again, Adam
I would think that holding in a little closer so that you can cast also shouldn’t be a problem for the other guys or the guide, if they are sporting types. Further, I don’t think that they would want to be at max range casting for peacocks. Those fish tend to live in some of the meanest cover there is if I’m not mistaken. You don’t want a mile of line out there with a fish that lives in snags. At least, I sure don’t! As far as working things out regarding who casts when- even two baitcaster types must do this if one guy is using a 7′ rod and the other is using a 6 1/2′ footer or longer in a smaller bass boat…you’d just have to co-ordinate casts. Work it out with your boat mate, and develop a rhythm. My partners and I would "leapfrog cast" an entire shoreline during club tournaments, staying out of each other’s way in the rhythm pattern. Further, as far as not being able to cast as frequently to the same area, how much line can you have out and still do a roll cast? You should be able to put the fly right back on the same spot that way, or walk it along an area, if the trolling motor is moving you at a fairly brisk pace, I would think. My fly rodding has been limited to the local river and farm ponds, so can’t tell you about the roll cast in a bass boat much…hmmmmm perhaps I need to do some field work on this and write an article….. ’Hope this helps some… B3
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » My first salmon Fly
It may just be my monitor, but I think I liked Paul’s shot better than the example.
Please don’t mistake my post for a critique of Paul’s picture. His looks awesome and has a very high resolution. Plus he tied that fly himself for crying out loud. I’m just wondering when he’s going to fish with it 
There have been other threads of late about digital cameras and I think Paul’s image speaks highly of what a digital camera can do. In my post, I was simply commenting on how–in general–to get a solid-colored background. It was admittedly a bit of a non sequitur. –Steve
Steve, Thanks for the info…I was just pretty impressed by quality of the orig photo. I just bought my daughter a 35mm (by her request), but now am wondering if she would be better off just getting a digi. cam. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It may just be my monitor, but I think I liked Paul’s shot better than the example. Please don’t mistake my post for a critique of Paul’s picture. His looks awesome and has a very high resolution. Plus he tied that fly himself for crying out loud. I’m just wondering when he’s going to fish with it There have been other threads of late about digital cameras and I think Paul’s image speaks highly of what a digital camera can do. In my post, I was simply commenting on how–in general–to get a solid-colored background. It was admittedly a bit of a non sequitur. –Steve
Gorgeous fly, Paul, and a great photo. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/
Hi, It was the Olympus 2020z with a wide angle adapter lens. With that adapter and the undocumented macro mode I was able to get 1.9" from the fly. I lit the fly with my halogen desk lamp. Paul
Paul, it is a GREAT shot. The shaded background gives the fly a perfect richness of depth, and truly highlights the colors. — "Of what service would militia be to you, when most probably you will not have a single musket in the State; for as arms are to be provided by Congress, they may or may not furnish them?" -Patrick Henry, 5 June 1788
It may just be my monitor, but I think I liked Paul’s shot better than the example. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – With that adapter and the undocumented macro mode I was able to get 1.9" from the fly. I lit the fly with my halogen desk lamp. Other general pointers… To get a white background, prop a piece of paper behind the fly. To avoid glare, block the overhead light using a clipboard or something similar, turn off the flash and then overexpose the shot. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/mosquito.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/humpy.jpg Sometimes it’s nice to have a other backgrounds with little or no glare as well. Same technique applies. For a black background, I’ve found that an Unreal Tournament T-shirt works pretty well . You can vary the amount of glare by blocking more or less overhead light. Examples: http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0722.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0764.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0698.jpg Standard disclaimer… I’m an amateur photographer at best (but I have tried lots and lots of close up shots, most of which look pretty crappy). I defer to RW and Wayno for "real" photos. –Steve
… http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0764.jpg …
Ooooo, ahhhhhh. That reel sure goes nicely with a Hamilton Rod. What is that, a Peerless ? — Ken Fortenberry
With that adapter and the undocumented macro mode I was able to get 1.9" from the fly. I lit the fly with my halogen desk lamp.
Other general pointers… To get a white background, prop a piece of paper behind the fly. To avoid glare, block the overhead light using a clipboard or something similar, turn off the flash and then overexpose the shot. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/mosquito.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/humpy.jpg Sometimes it’s nice to have a other backgrounds with little or no glare as well. Same technique applies. For a black background, I’ve found that an Unreal Tournament T-shirt works pretty well . You can vary the amount of glare by blocking more or less overhead light. Examples: http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0722.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0764.jpg http://www.hamiltonrods.com/images/DCP_0698.jpg Standard disclaimer… I’m an amateur photographer at best (but I have tried lots and lots of close up shots, most of which look pretty crappy). I defer to RW and Wayno for "real" photos. –Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for putting it on-line; my _great_ (sic) provider does provide me with the replies, but not with the binary 
. Great looking fly! Love the married slips. Looking at works of art like these, I remember the late Hans de Groot, a well known flytier from the Netherlands. He was tying a salmon fly at an exhibition. Some guy was watching him, and asked Hans how much he wanted for it, once he finished. ‘I don’t sell flies’ he murmured under his beard, and slowly and meticulously continued tying his fly. ‘I give you a hundred guilders for it’ said the man, palming his wallet. ‘I don’t sell flies’, was the undisturbed reply. This went on, a sweating man bidding up, Hans slowly finishing his fly. When he was finished he looked at a young boy, who head eyed every step of the process. ‘Do you like it?’ ‘Yes’ ‘It’s yours, take it.’ The now red with anger guy looked at Hans, who calmly said.. ‘I told you. I don’t sell flies..’ He is missed. Herman
And the modern American ending to the story: The boy then turned to the angry man and said, "It will be up on E-Bay in the morning."
1600×1200, 384KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander.jpg
Which camera? Mu
Hi, It was the Olympus 2020z with a wide angle adapter lens. With that adapter and the undocumented macro mode I was able to get 1.9" from the fly. I lit the fly with my halogen desk lamp. Paul . – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1600×1200, 384KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander.jpg Which camera? Mu
Very kind of you Paul, thanks. The fly looks very nice, and the photo is good as well. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike, I just pushed the files up to my site. 1600×1200, 384KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander.jpg 800×600, 69KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander800×600.jpg If there are photos posted to APBF in the future that you want to see send me a note and I’ll load them for you. Paul
Thanks for putting it on-line; my _great_ (sic) provider does provide me with the replies, but not with the binary . Great looking fly! Love the married slips. Looking at works of art like these, I remember the late Hans de Groot, a well known flytier from the Netherlands. He was tying a salmon fly at an exhibition. Some guy was watching him, and asked Hans how much he wanted for it, once he finished. ‘I don’t sell flies’ he murmured under his beard, and slowly and meticulously continued tying his fly. ‘I give you a hundred guilders for it’ said the man, palming his wallet. ‘I don’t sell flies’, was the undisturbed reply. This went on, a sweating man bidding up, Hans slowly finishing his fly. When he was finished he looked at a young boy, who head eyed every step of the process. ‘Do you like it?’ ‘Yes’ ‘It’s yours, take it.’ The now red with anger guy looked at Hans, who calmly said.. ‘I told you. I don’t sell flies..’ He is missed. Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike, I just pushed the files up to my site. 1600×1200, 384KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander.jpg 800×600, 69KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander800×600.jpg If there are photos posted to APBF in the future that you want to see send me a note and I’ll load them for you. Paul Is there any way we could obtain some ROFF space somewhere for pictures like this, even temporary space for a week or so? I am completely unable to [snip]
– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher
Is there any way we could obtain some ROFF space somewhere for pictures like this, even temporary space for a week or so? I am completely unable to obtain APBF, and I would certainly like to look at some of the things being posted there.
I don’t know how well it will work, but there’s a site… http://www.imira.com that will host photo albums. I just created a group for ROFF name: roff password: roffroff (it wanted at least 6 characters) You can create various albums and subalbums there, but I haven’t tried it out yet. - Ken
After 8<
Paul, very, very nice. May I suggest that you modify the width of the jpeg to 500-600 pixels? This will load the pic on a 15 or 17 inch monitor and allow the viewer to see the complete fly in all of it’s glory w/o having to use sidebars to view. again, very nice… you have talent. Walt
I cut it in half (800×600) and posted it to APBF for those who are diagonally challenged. I just got a 22" flat screen and the picture fits perfectly. Paul
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After 8< Paul, very, very nice. May I suggest that you modify the width of the jpeg to 500-600 pixels? This will load the pic on a 15 or 17 inch monitor and allow the viewer to see the complete fly in all of it’s glory w/o having to use sidebars to view. again, very nice… you have talent. Walt
That’s no highlander, where’s the kilt! But more to the point – will you fish it? Seriously, there’s a huge amount of work in that fly and the makings of a serious addiction. I’m always amazed at the patience and artistry in these things. Far more than this feeble tier can manage. Hats off. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
I cut it in half (800×600) and posted it to APBF for those who are diagonally challenged. I just got a 22" flat screen and the picture fits perfectly. Paul
I just posted nice things about your fly but I after hearing you brag about your 22′ flat screen I’m taking it all back. <g Peter (still squinting at a bent tube) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
I cut it in half (800×600) and posted it to APBF for those who are diagonally challenged. I just got a 22" flat screen and the picture fits perfectly. Paul
much better! walt
I just got a 22" flat screen and the picture fits perfectly.
And speaking of gear whores… –Steve
Is there any way we could obtain some ROFF space somewhere for pictures like this, even temporary space for a week or so? I am completely unable to obtain APBF, and I would certainly like to look at some of the things being posted there. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I cut it in half (800×600) and posted it to APBF for those who are diagonally challenged. I just got a 22" flat screen and the picture fits perfectly. Paul
Purty fly!! Willi
Mike, I just pushed the files up to my site. 1600×1200, 384KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander.jpg 800×600, 69KB http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/greenhilander800×600.jpg If there are photos posted to APBF in the future that you want to see send me a note and I’ll load them for you. Paul
Is there any way we could obtain some ROFF space somewhere for pictures like this, even temporary space for a week or so? I am completely unable to
[snip]
After threatening to do it for a few years I sat down and tied a classic salmon fly. I tied a green highlander and posted a picture of it on APBF. There are a bunch of things I need to work on and I did take a couple of shortcuts but it’s not bad for a first try. This was a test for tying one on some antique blind eye salmon hooks I have. The picture is about 400KB and quite revealing. With the naked eye I thought the body was smooth. The naysayers of digital cameras might want to look at the detail that the camera captured.
Great photo of a true work of art! Thanks Paul. — "Of what service would militia be to you, when most probably you will not have a single musket in the State; for as arms are to be provided by Congress, they may or may not furnish them?" -Patrick Henry, 5 June 1788
After 8< Paul, very, very nice. May I suggest that you modify the width of the jpeg to 500-600 pixels? This will load the pic on a 15 or 17 inch monitor and allow the viewer to see the complete fly in all of it’s glory w/o having to use sidebars to view.
I still have no way of viewing ABPF, but a 500 pixel width will cover less than 1/3 of my screen (it’s the resolution, not the size of the monitor that matters). Guess it doesn’t matter, since I can’t see it, but if I could I’d prefer bigger images and people can shrink them if they have less resolution, it’s impossible to make them bigger from smaller images. - Ken
After threatening to do it for a few years I sat down and tied a classic salmon fly. I tied a green highlander and posted a picture of it on APBF. There are a bunch of things I need to work on and I did take a couple of shortcuts but it’s not bad for a first try. This was a test for tying one on some antique blind eye salmon hooks I have. The picture is about 400KB and quite revealing. With the naked eye I thought the body was smooth. The naysayers of digital cameras might want to look at the detail that the camera captured.
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Handheld GPS recommendations needed
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I went to the Garmin site http://www.garmin.com/cartography/mapSource/ and did a Ctrl n, then another Ctrl n, then another Ctrl n. I now had 3 sessions of my browser running. In the first browser I pulled up the Garmin Roads and Rec demo, in the second the second one I pulled up the Topo East demo, and in the last I pulled up the Waterways and Lights Continental US. I then zoomed in to the same spot on each of the three different maps to see what each of the CD’s had to offer. This will tell you which CD will work best for you. The III+ has limited memory, so the more detail you want, the less area you’ll be able to download. For my money, the only thing missing in GPS III+ basemap is the nav aids. And using the Waterways and Lights CD which has much less land detail, allows downloading a much bigger area of nav aids than either of the other two CD’s. Russ has a good point about zooming in all the way — you get different detail on each different CD at different zoom levels.
Clever idea about having each product in its own browser window. Couple of points of clarification: I have noticed a huge difference in shoreline detail between the built-in base map and the MapSource maps. For instance, in San Diego Bay, Shelter Island doesn’t even appear in the base map, but is accurately displayed in the MapSource maps. Every inland lake that I’ve been on shows similar glaring differences in shoreline detail between the base map and the MapSource maps. All MapSource products seem to have the same level of detail and accuracy for shorelines. You are absolutely correct about the W&L CD being able to cover a significantly larger area than the R&R or TOPO CD for a given amount of memory. I own the W&L CD as well as the R&R CD. I think the correct choice depends on how you use the unit. If you only use the unit for marine use, and have a need to cover large expanses of water, then clearly the W&L CD is the correct choice. However, with the III+ being a portable hand-held, it lends itself to so many other uses. I use the R&R street level detail for navigating in unfamiliar urban areas as well as cross country road trips. On long cross country trips I take my notebook PC along to update the maps as I stop for fuel along the trip. I’ve used the III+ and the R&R CD on hiking and four wheeling trips. I don’t own the TOPO CD, but I suspect that if one did a lot of hiking or off-road driving, that would be a very good one to own. I bought the WorldMap CD for an upcoming cruise down into Mexican waters. However, unless you have a singular and dedicated use for the III+, and you only want to invest in one of the MapSource CD’s, I think the R&R CD provides the most versatility and overall utility. Russ
I went to the Garmin site http://www.garmin.com/cartography/mapSource/ and did a Ctrl n, then another Ctrl n, then another Ctrl n. I now had 3 sessions of my browser running. In the first browser I pulled up the Garmin Roads and Rec demo, in the second the second one I pulled up the Topo East demo, and in the last I pulled up the Waterways and Lights Continental US. I then zoomed in to the same spot on each of the three different maps to see what each of the CD’s had to offer. This will tell you which CD will work best for you. The III+ has limited memory, so the more detail you want, the less area you’ll be able to download. For my money, the only thing missing in GPS III+ basemap is the nav aids. And using the Waterways and Lights CD which has much less land detail, allows downloading a much bigger area of nav aids than either of the other two CD’s. Russ has a good point about zooming in all the way — you get different detail on each different CD at different zoom levels. I have my GPS mounted on the boat dash with velcro. It talks with my FloScan 9000 allowing the FloScan to give me a reading of miles/gallon for my outboard. When the GPS isn’t on the boat, it’s in the car. I like the small size – it easily fits into my pocket. I used it in Europe to keep from getting lost on foot…just follow the ‘breadcrumbs’ back to where you started. On the plane over, it told me we were flying 710 mph at 36,000 feet (if I remember correctly) and that the Eurostar train from London to Paris was clipping along at 190 mph. It was a real rush to see the GPS go to 00.00.00 at the Old Observatory in Greenwich! Nick in Spartanburg, SC Extremely happy owner of a 115 Ficht pushing the Seaswirl 1850 W/A "NICKY"
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You can go to Garmin’s web site www.garmin.com, and view the MapSource data online. Go to the cartography section and select the Roads & Rec product. With patience and time, you can pan and zoom to your familiar waters. Be sure and zoom in tight enough to get full detail. Conversely, if you can relate a specific area to me, I can look it up and describe what can be seen. Russ
<SNIP For my money, the only thing missing in GPS III+ basemap is the nav aids. And using the Waterways and Lights CD which has much less land detail, allows downloading a much bigger area of nav aids than either of the other two CD’s. Russ has a good point about zooming in all the way — you get different detail on each different CD at different zoom levels. Nick in Spartanburg, SC Extremely happy owner of a 115 Ficht pushing the Seaswirl 1850 W/A "NICKY"
Nick- Very cool; you’re adventurous as ever! I tried your suggestion. Good way to compare. My primary use will be translating fishing events (hits, catches, etc.) from GPS to a chart at home. In most cases, this means a fishable location like Lake Lanier or a short section of the Tennessee River that I could reach in one day via my bass boat. So, UI will rarely need more than 20 or 30 square miles at a time for this application. I think any of the maping databases you guys discussed can get me that. The topo does show some level of altitude (depth) difference within the body of Lake Lanier, which might be useful for locating large channels. Alas, it pales in comparison to a real chart…that would be too much to ask! Thanks for your help, guys. I’m gonna go look at a Garmin III, and maybe compare it to the Lowrance 100 as well. — Rich Stern
I looked at the maps on Garmins web site. Are they they exact same as what gets loaded into the gps? I was a little disappointed with the detail regarding markers on the lake parts.
I looked at the maps on Garmins web site. Are they they exact same as what gets loaded into the gps? I was a little disappointed with the detail regarding markers on the lake parts.
Same data. Be sure to zoom in enough to get full detail. Navaids on inland waters leave quite a bit to be desired. The big advantage for inland users is the shoreline detail. You can reproduce the navaids by creating waypoints for them if necessary. Russ
You might also want to consider the Garmin GPS12MAP it has virtually all the same features as the III+ except that you can’t change the orientation (horizontal window instead of vertical) but it will firt easily into a shirt pocket and is cheaper than the III+. I bought one as a backup to my Garmin 210 fixed mount and have been very happy with it.
Good point. I keep forgetting about that unit. It wasn’t available when I bought the III+. It looks like the only difference is the inability to change screen orientation and the fact that you can’t use an external antenna. Neither of those issues would likely be a huge loss for most users. Russ
You can go to Garmin’s web site www.garmin.com, and view the MapSource data online. Go to the cartography section and select the Roads & Rec product. With patience and time, you can pan and zoom to your familiar waters. Be sure and zoom in tight enough to get full detail. Conversely, if you can relate a specific area to me, I can look it up and describe what can be seen. Russ
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Garmin III+ RAM mount system 12V power cord MapSource Roads & Rec CD-ROM all available at: www.tvnav.com Russ, how good are the inland marine maps? What kind of detail can I expect to see. Correct contours of shorelines? I hadn’t really considered a mapping unit, was just planning to work from coordinates. But, it would be easier if I could see where I was on screen at home when looking at a chart. I’ve had my III+ for a couple of years now. I put a 162 fixed mount on the boat, but still use my III+ for other uses and as a backup on the boat. I’m taking it with me on a Mexican cruise next week, loaded with the Mexican area maps from the WorldMap CD. If I lost my III+ tomorrow, I’d replace it with the same unit immediately. If you only intend to use the unit on the boat and nowhere else, and have the mounting room, consider the 162. It takes the same MapSource data as the III+ but affords a larger viewing screen. You can’t beat the III+ for ruggedness and versatility. Russ
You might also want to consider the Garmin GPS12MAP it has virtually all the same features as the III+ except that you can’t change the orientation (horizontal window instead of vertical) but it will firt easily into a shirt pocket and is cheaper than the III+. I bought one as a backup to my Garmin 210 fixed mount and have been very happy with it. Blue Skies, Dave
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My current Apelco handheld is semi-permanently mounted on my old bass boat, so I am letting it go to the new owner. I need a new one with the following attributes: – Good ability to stay hooked up to a signal while getting bounced in 3 foot waves. – Strong on ease of use, particularly for marking and retrieving waypoints. I want to be able to easily mark a locaton while out on the water, and then retrieve that info at home for logging purposes. – Optional 12v power Recommendations?
Garmin III+ RAM mount system 12V power cord MapSource Roads & Rec CD-ROM all available at: www.tvnav.com Russ
Garmin III+ RAM mount system 12V power cord MapSource Roads & Rec CD-ROM all available at: www.tvnav.com
Russ, how good are the inland marine maps? What kind of detail can I expect to see. Correct contours of shorelines? I hadn’t really considered a mapping unit, was just planning to work from coordinates. But, it would be easier if I could see where I was on screen at home when looking at a chart. — Rich Stern
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Garmin III+ RAM mount system 12V power cord MapSource Roads & Rec CD-ROM all available at: www.tvnav.com Russ, how good are the inland marine maps? What kind of detail can I expect to see. Correct contours of shorelines? I hadn’t really considered a mapping unit, was just planning to work from coordinates. But, it would be easier if I could see where I was on screen at home when looking at a chart.
The shoreline contours for inland waters are typically excellent. I’m not talking about elevation contours, but rather just the detailed shapes of the shoreline itself. Very accurate in my experience. When you’re in a cove or off a point, that’s where the GPS unit will show you. In addition, marinas and ramps are shown. Some inland navaids are shown, but not many. Those that aren’t can be created as waypoints. The III+ has a built-in base map, but shoreline contours don’t have anywhere near the accuracy of the MapSource downloadable maps. Mostly polygon shapes. I wouldn’t want to be without the mapping feature, myself. In addition to the detailed mapping, the MapSource software is also an excellent waypoint and route management utility. You can create and edit waypoints and routes on a PC with full-sized screen and keyboard, which is much easier than doing so on the GPS unit itself. This data can then be downloaded to the GPS unit. In addition, the MapSource software allows for archiving waypoint data that may have been created on the fly with the GPS unit. Very important to be able to have a backup copy of that data in case the GPS is lost, stolen, or fails. If you mark a hot fishing spot while having a good day on the water, you don’t want to lose those coordinates due to a mishap. When you combine the mapping feature and waypoint utility, it’s an extremely useful package. Very well done. I’ve had my III+ for a couple of years now. I put a 162 fixed mount on the boat, but still use my III+ for other uses and as a backup on the boat. I’m taking it with me on a Mexican cruise next week, loaded with the Mexican area maps from the WorldMap CD. If I lost my III+ tomorrow, I’d replace it with the same unit immediately. If you only intend to use the unit on the boat and nowhere else, and have the mounting room, consider the 162. It takes the same MapSource data as the III+ but affords a larger viewing screen. You can’t beat the III+ for ruggedness and versatility. Russ
My current Apelco handheld is semi-permanently mounted on my old bass boat, so I am letting it go to the new owner. I need a new one with the following attributes: – Good ability to stay hooked up to a signal while getting bounced in 3 foot waves. – Strong on ease of use, particularly for marking and retrieving waypoints. I want to be able to easily mark a locaton while out on the water, and then retrieve that info at home for logging purposes. – Optional 12v power Recommendations? — Rich Stern
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fishing Flies » USA 1991 Flyfishing Stamps
Some stamps came out a while ago featuring flies. Anyone know where I cn get them? Ari
Some stamps came out a while ago featuring flies. Anyone know where I cn get them?
Um……U.S Post Office?
I have a first day issue of these stamps. They were released on May 31, 1991 by the US post office. If you live in the US, look in your local phone book for a stamp collector store. They will probably have it. I first day issue will probably cost about $10, a strip about $5.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some stamps came out a while ago featuring flies. Anyone know where I cn get them? Ari
Some stamps came out a while ago featuring flies. Anyone know where I can get them?
I don’t know if they are still available in the Post Office or not — occasionally I see someone offer a booklet of them on eBay at auction. Fleetwood is still selling First Day Covers and Postcards so you can get a description of the stamps by going to their web site and searching for "fishing flies" http://www.unicover.com/unisearch.htm? At the time of issue the Post Office also put out a framed print of a fly fisherman with all five stamps included. I have one around here somewhere but couldn’t find it to provide a better description. I’m not a stamp collector myself but am trying to round up copies of all the first day stuff for the Largemouth Bass stamp. Have a great weekend, — Clyde Drury Black Bass Book Collector http://members.aol.com/BassBks/index.html
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fishing/Outdoors graphics for web page?
Does anyone know of some good sites to find some cool graphics(not too big) for my web page I’m designing? Thanks! Go UT Lady Vols!!!
Does anyone know of some good sites to find some cool graphics(not too big) for my web page I’m designing? Thanks! Go UT Lady Vols!!!
Try this page, should keep you busy for awile: http://www.fishnet.net/~gini/cool/ Max
http:/www.inetarena.com/~mwi "…there are only two things in life worth getting excited about – fly fishing is the other one…"
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fly Fishing Yosemite/Kings Canyon – Help
I’m planning of visiting Yosemite and Kings Canyon National Parks at the end of September. Any advice on rivers and fly selection would be appreciated! I’ll be staying in Three Rivers and Bass Lake. Thanks Very Much!
I’m planning of visiting Yosemite and Kings Canyon National Parks at the end of September. Any advice on rivers and fly selection would be appreciated! I’ll be staying in Three Rivers and Bass Lake.
The streams in that end of Yosemite will be too low at the end of Sept. , but it’s about an hour over to the Merced just outside the park at El Portal. The Merced has been ok in some years and poor in others, but fishes best at this time of year. Check with Bob at Sierra Anglers in Modesto for an up to date report. Out of Three Rivers your best bet is the Middle Fk. of the Kaweah above Buckeye Flat campground. Both rivers are free stone streams with lots of pocket water. Use Elk Hair Caddis , stimulators or Humpies, the basic western Sierra drill. Good luck. …Dick
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fly Fishing NZ North Island
I am an avid fly fisher doin’ cold turkey in Hong Kong, but am planning a trip to New Zealand, Tauranga/Rotorua/Taupo area for about a week in a camper van at the end of October with my 2 young lads. Any info on locations, flies, tactics, anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Adam J. Marr
I am an avid fly fisher doin’ cold turkey in Hong Kong, but am planning a trip to New Zealand, Tauranga/Rotorua/Taupo area for about a week in a camper van at the end of October with my 2 young lads. Any info on locations, flies, tactics, anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Adam J. Marr
Adam: Check out Anglers Paradise in Turangi. John and Val Milner have retired now, but the new owbners would help. Sporting Life in Turangi is THE place to get info and tackle. Graham has fished the Tongiriro all of his life. **** THE BEST **** guide in the Turangi area is Tim Mcarthy. His father was a guide (still is, I believe), but Tim is, in the opinion of MANY of the locals as well, THE BEST guide. Use his services for ONE DAY, and you will learn the pools and what catches fish. I spent 9 months fishing that river and Lake Taupo, and it’s a WONDERFUL experience. Don’t forget to bring your "winter woolies"; ice can form on the guides this time of year, but the fishing is SUPERB in June and August. After all, the NZ fish are transplanted Oregon WINTER STEELHEAD. Enjoy your trip. I wish I was going with you !! Regards de Mikey !!
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Miscanthus grass?
I have an ‘M.sinensis giganteus’. The season is too short here in southern Ontario (USDA 5) and consequentially this majestic plant will not flower (go to seed).This grass is from, I believe, northern China/south eastern Russia.How can I ‘cheat’ the plant into flowering? Thanks for any and all help. John.
I have an ‘M.sinensis giganteus’. The season is too short here in southern Ontario (USDA 5) and consequentially this majestic plant will not flower (go to seed).This grass is from, I believe, northern China/south eastern Russia.How can I ‘cheat’ the plant into flowering? Thanks for any and all help. John.
Where did you get this plant? I would love to have one. I live in Oklahoma and the miscanthus I have do wonderfully.
Where did you get this plant? I would love to have one. I live in Oklahoma and the miscanthus I have do wonderfully.
Get a copy of the Kurt Bluemel catalog. They specialize in grasses and their catalog lists 53 varieties of Miscanthus, typically at $6 each. Good quality plants. Their address is 2740 Greene Lane Baldwin, MD 21013-9523 410 557-7229 Doesn’t your grass grow pretty much horizontal in all that wind? <g I grew up near/in Enid. — Lloyd R. Fortney ….. http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney physics, research, teaching, photography, flower gardening, travel, and fly fishing
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rods » Information on Heddon fly rod
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi, i recently found a "New in Box" fly rod. I’m sure that someone on this news feed can provide some information for me (at least I hope so). It is a bamboo flyrod made by James Heddon’s Sons in Dowagiac, Michigan. Model T170, 6 1/2′ in length. It says Heddon Deluxe on the shaft, with a number 4 – 3 on the balsa cork handle. It is a two piece rod with the obligatory aluminum traveling tube. Anyone have an idea of when it might have been made? Anyone every heard of James Heddon’s Sons? I’ve also got about 200 hundred of their big game lures (sure don’t look like flys to me . Are they still in existence? I wouldn’t mind knowing when it was sold (I’m guessing in the 40’s to 50’s.), and what it’s good for. I found the rod & equipment in the garage of a recently deceased relative. He was quite the sportsman. This particular rod was never used (or even had a reel attached – the shipping notice is still attached), and looks like a nice one. I now have part of the equipment needed to finally break into fly fishing (of course, what I should do is unload all of this stuff & buy my wife a new washer/dryer, but i’m not too stupid). Any information would be helpful, Thanks, Larry — "There is NO kill like a guns kill" CMDR. W. Driscoll, USNR Code 5585 (202)767-3040
Although the Heddon Company is still in operation, I expect they stopped making split cane rods many years ago. Off-hand I would guess your rod was made in the mid 1960s. I think the 4-3 you mention refers to suggested size of line. The earlier HDH, HCH, IFI type of line designation was replaced by the number in the ’60s. Shorter rods were more in fashion a bit later too. Heddon was a good solid production company. Its rods were not high end custom products, like Garrisons, Dickersons, and Paynes. Is there an extra tip? Heddons, IMHO, should be worth $100 to $200. There are some oddball collectors who have paid a bit more. I believe a President model (gold fittings) once brought a thousand. Your rod is not a president model, but it is in a desirable short size, and if condition is pristine as you say, it could bring a bit more. With two tips, it could sell RETAIL for even $400-500 (quite optimistically speaking). OTOH, a dealer would pay you about half of what he thought he could sell it for. Why not keep it and fish with it? You can pay $400-500 for a fancy graphite fly rod today. I’d rather use an old Heddon. Dave
hi, i recently found a "New in Box" fly rod. I’m sure that someone on this news feed can provide some information for me (at least I hope so). It is a bamboo flyrod made by James Heddon’s Sons in Dowagiac, Michigan. Model T170, 6 1/2′ in length. It says Heddon Deluxe on the shaft, with a number 4 – 3 on the balsa cork handle. It is a two piece rod with the obligatory aluminum traveling tube. Anyone have an idea of when it might have been made? Anyone every heard of James Heddon’s Sons? I’ve also got about 200 hundred of their big game lures (sure don’t look like flys to me . Are they still in existence? I wouldn’t mind knowing when it was sold (I’m guessing in the 40’s to 50’s.), and what it’s good for. I found the rod & equipment in the garage of a recently deceased relative. He was quite the sportsman. This particular rod was never used (or even had a reel attached – the shipping notice is still attached), and looks like a nice one. I now have part of the equipment needed to finally break into fly fishing (of course, what I should do is unload all of this stuff & buy my wife a new washer/dryer, but i’m not too stupid). Any information would be helpful, Thanks, Larry — "There is NO kill like a guns kill" CMDR. W. Driscoll, USNR Code 5585 (202)767-3040