Question:

The biggest news is no news.   Expected ROFF population is presently four, with at least one maybe.   There’s still one bed available Thurs-Sat & one Fri-Sat.   Friday night is still arbitrarily selected as the BS/drinking/cigar/tying get-together at Malinda’s in Altmar.   Sorry, no raffle. I’m planning to have an FRS radio on me when I’m not at Malinda’s, so if you’re driving up or you’re near the river, try shouting for me on FRS ch.9 if you have one yourself.   Friday, I’m likely to be around the FFO stretch at Altmar or down at the Trestle Pool; but it’s way too soon to say. I’m getting together w/ fishing buddy on Thursday for lunch to compare fly boxes in time to fill perceived shortages.   If (big IF) I can get my shit together, I want to photograph one of every fly we have between us & post the photos on the website.   http://home.att.net/~fleischman/SalmonRiver.htm My present fly inventory includes: chenille egg patterns (various colors) on #10’s sparkle chenille eggs (various colors) on #8 3906 Purple Flash nymph version on 3906 #8  (awesome last year) Altmar Sunrise, #8 Comets, pink & orange on 3906B, #8 Lazer eggs (orange, pink, chartr.) A comet variety I’ve been messing with but looks great.   It’s an unweighted comet on a 3906 w/ short marabou tail, oval tinsel body, bucktail wing (w/ a few strands of krystal flash), & collar hackle.   I’ve tied ‘em in purple, pink, & chartreuse so far & I’m expecting great things (gotta do some orange, but don’t have the bucktail).   If they work & it hasn’t been done before, I’ll give it a name; but it’s too similar to a comet to be anything but a variety thereof. I think I’m forgetting something.   I’ll have to get my fly box out & see what else is in there.  I have heard at least one early report that black wooly buggers were slayin’ ‘em.   Is there any fish that doesn’t work for? A reminder of the dates in case anyone’s interested: October 17-20, Altmar, NY Joe F.

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Expected ROFF population is presently four, with at least one maybe.

Upgrade that ‘maybe’ to ‘probable’.

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Question:

  C’mon Waldo, you know about a cowboy and his pony. <g I imagine they can’t wait for winter to roll around every year! <g — Warren Findley Shut up and fish! For Yellowstone Clave info: http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/YNP.html

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Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on. P.s   I no I ain’t no good at gramer uv the inglish langwij. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, I know what he is talking about. My feathers aren’t ruffled. Can’t you tell I gave him a "retort" also. I actually visisted that website. But if I wan’t sex humor, I’ll vist the appropriate groups. Rob rob, tis sad, but, well…uhmmm, that’s the only sex rw gets. –waldo ps… you misspelt "wank"

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Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  I had a nice one all typed in and resisted (but as expected, the gap was filled).  We all get along just fine.  We even goof on each other.  That’s life, that’s ROFF. –Stan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

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Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  

Even in rec.outdoors.lawnmowers.abel?  Speaking of which, maybe someone ought to start a syndicate and float bonds in case they do get stoned and make one….  Of course, if had been Asadi or ‘tripper, no one would have noticed… (but as expected, the gap was filled).

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! We all get along just fine.  

What’s this "we" shit, kemosabe? We even goof on each other.

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That sounds like a song…. –Stan Can’t we all just get along?  

Sure, Rodney… I do have a good imagination, don’t i?

Well, let’s see – how many dirty words can you make with these letters: qwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnm? I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

"JUST?"  Then what the hell are you doing reading ROFF? TC, R

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That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), that’s what all the people say You’re skunked in April, hit runoff in May But I know I’m gonna change that tune When I’m back on top, back on top in June I said that’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), and as funny as it may seem Some people get their kicks stompin’ on a dream But I don’t let it, let it get me down ’cause this fine old world, it keeps flyin’ around I’ve been a joker, a troller, a pirate, a poet, a pawn and a king I’ve been up and down and over and out and I know one thing Each time I find myself

Question:

Use a Griffitt’s Gnat The best advise I have is do not try to fish a midge hatch with a match in size. It is generally futile. The hook size is impractical for decent hookups and, think about it, the trout are going to pick out your tiny fly from all the mass that have hatched? Good lucK. I suggest you fish a Griffitt’s Gnat instead. Unlike most aquatic insects, the midges are hatching from CLUSTERS of eggs in the meniscus . . . little gooy egg masses. The Griffitts imitates the egg clusters. Thats what the fish are going for because it gives them more food per gulp. The Griffitts is also big enough to carry a decent hook, and to tie on with normal vision. End of advice Dave

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I’m in Colorado and been fly fishing for 15 yrs. Let me say this, we tend to fish the same nymph and vary the color and size…different colored rib and collar. My tip, when fishing in the early A.M. start very small (22-24) on your dropper and swim it just off the bottom. Add only enough weight to keep it low and clean. The colder it is on the river the more slight the touch. Success is tight line to the hook and set on the tiny movement of your indicator.

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: Hello: : This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone : has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most : interested. : Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Aren’t we all? : Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether : midges are most productive in; : -very early spring : -heat of the summer : -fall Midges are an all year round possibility in Aus. especially in lakes. : Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Rarely less than size 18, things like black spiders, griffiths gnat, work for me.  I’d also use some more imitative pupa but prefer the simpler flies (the fish seem to as well).   Tied on a light hook the spiders (also do well as ants ) will float low in the film, a heavier hook gets them down an inch or two.     The Gnat I use mainly, when there are  mating swarms over the water, although it fishes well as a single bug too. : Thanks, : Bob Good Luck. Steve

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We have some really good midge fishing in Nevada on the East Walker River near Bridgeport, which can be fished year round.  Some of our other rivers could have good midge fishiing, but they are closed during the winter. My opinion is that midge fishing is good only when ther are not many large flies around.  Therefore midge fishiing  is usually good in the winter when the mayflies and caddis’s have disappeared, and before the stoneflies and BWO’s come out.  However, if they are the dominant fly at other times, fish will feed on them.  I carry my midge box year round, but don’t use it much in the warmer months. In regards to size, match the natural as closely as possible.  You will probably be to large!  Dry flies should be tried during the warmest part of the day.  My favorite rig is a size18-22 parachute adams as a point fly and a black midge emerger or brassie as a dropper. Good luck

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall

Actually Bob, I have had some of my best days with midges during warm spells in January and February.  The best times will naturally correspond to the hatching regimes if the midges in the streams that you fish. Once the mayfly and caddis hatches are done in the summer, fish will turn there attention to terrestrials and midges, so for a general answer, late summer, fall, winter, and early spring would probably be the best times. The size of flies you use will be keyed to the insect activity in the area that you fish. You really need to put your time in on the streams, and ask questions of the local anglers. You will be surprised how quickly you will learn, and how your successes will increase. Best of luck. George Adams

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Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges.

I hate it when I’m put on a hook and thrown in a river.  This midge’ is staying on dry ground.  :) Vern

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Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall

There is no straight forward answer to that. On many tailwaters the fish feed heavily on midges year round. In the free stone streams here in Colorado and much of the West, the only hatches still occurring in late Fall, Winter, and early Spring are midges. The surface feeding fish are generally feeding on the emerging insect and sparse flies that float in the film are usually best. Many midges are extremely tiny and although it’s best to match the size, I find that when going below a size 22 hook, hookups are a problem.  If your presentation is good enough, you can get away with using a larger fly. A dead drift presentation is a must. A long light tippet and a downstream presentation helps. When the midges are hatching heavily enough to bring the fish to the surface, you have alot of natural flies to compete with and your presentation must be right on the money because the fish won’t move for your fly.   Midge fishing can be fun but it is very fussy fishing. You are usually targeting a single fish trying to get the perfect presentation and take. Sometimes you’ll get a fish on your first cast but often MANY casts must be made before you have success. Midges will bring up good fish to the surface especially in the Winter when there is no other insect activity. I’ve caught some of my better fish on midges. Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons?

There are lots of exceptions to this but as a general rule, Spring has the hatches of the bigger insects.  As the seasons progress, the insects get smaller in size. Willi

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I have seen midges mostly in early spring and this time of year. Looking in my notebook they seem to like waters around 55*. The lake I fish in the spring has some very large midges (#14) that the trout go bonkers for. When the Mayflies and Caddis start hatching they aren’t as common. Then again after the water temps drop I start to see them again albeit a bit smaller (#18). sf

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

All others posting a reply assume you are interested in fishing rivers.   On many lakes and reservoirs midge fishing is the best game going from Nov-April, assuming you can find open water.  The lake midges can be very large by river standards, sizes 12-16.  4x tippets will work with the jumbo imitations and are probably necessary since the lakes will give up a lot of 20+ inch fish.  This will be a very lazy style of fishing, seldom to visible fish.  I look for a shoal area in which fish are occasionally seen taking midges on the surface, and just fish the water with a floating line and a very SLOW hand-twist retrieve.

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Question:

Thanks Dan and all who responded to my inquiry.  I have an email in (which preceded my opening of this thread by 10 days, and remains unanswered) to ODFW, and we willsee what they say.  If I do not hear from them shortly, I will revert to primitive technology and use the telephone, if I can find it amongst all these damn feathers…:)   Thanks Ken, too.. If you hear from the Oregon agency folks via email, hope you will let us know here. Tks! Bob

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get the lead out! Safe with bismuth and other such as copper, (for now) Schuhfly

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Last September, when we honeymooned around Bend, we were fishing the Fall and the Metolius and were told by other anglers (well, one in each place, actually..) that no lead (ie:split shot, putty, etc.) was permitted in either river.  Nor were lead-weighted flies.  So, we did not use them. However, I scoured the Oregon regs booklet and could find no such regs specific to either river. We plan to return next month for a week and want to abide by the law, however, we’d also like to be able to fish nymphs in the conventional manner we do here in the east, with lead on the leader, etc.  Can anyone clarify this for me? Is it really the law?  Additionally, if it is so, does the prohibition extend to the non toxic shots and putties?  Any help appreciated.. In return, we promise not to move to Oregon, but reserve the right to visit occasionally…:)  Thanks!

I don’t know for sure, but I’ve never heard of it, and I couldn’t find it in the regs either.  It might be encouraged, but I don’t think it’s a reg…yet. You still have to not move here though.  :-) Later,      - Ken — Not speaking for anyone but myself

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I know lead is not permitted either (because I’ve been told too!) but if I nymph I use beadheads – pheasant tails,etc. Bill

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Last September, when we honeymooned around Bend, we were fishing the Fall and the Metolius and were told by other anglers (well, one in each place, actually..) that no lead (ie:split shot, putty, etc.) was permitted in either river.  Nor were lead-weighted flies.  So, we did not use them. However, I scoured the Oregon regs booklet and could find no such regs specific to either river. We plan to return next month for a week and want to abide by the law, however, we’d also like to be able to fish nymphs in the conventional manner we do here in the east, with lead on the leader, etc.  Can anyone clarify this for me? Is it really the law?  Additionally, if it is so, does the prohibition extend to the non toxic shots and putties?  Any help appreciated.. In return, we promise not to move to Oregon, but reserve the right to visit occasionally…:)  Thanks!  

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Looking at the 1998 regs: P7: Artificial fly: a hook (weighted or nonweighted) dressed with conventional fly materials only; a fly is not a hook to which sinkers, molded weights or plastic bodies, spinners, spoons, or similar attractors are attached I read this to say that, for example, lead wire wrapped on the hook is OK, but split shot on the line is not. P51: Fall River: Restricted to fly angling only with barbless hooks P52: Metolius River: Restricted to artificial flies and lures downstream from bridge 99. Restricted to artificial flies only upstream from bridge 99. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know lead is not permitted either (because I’ve been told too!) but if I nymph I use beadheads – pheasant tails,etc. Bill

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Hmmm, I know that a lot of fly-fishing people use split-shot around here, I wonder if it’s only an issue in fly-fishing only waters.  I’m gonna email somebody at ODFW and ask. If waters are open to artificial flies and lures (Metolius) then I would read that to mean that split-shot is okay.  I’ll post whatever response I get.      - Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Looking at the 1998 regs: P7: Artificial fly: a hook (weighted or nonweighted) dressed with conventional fly materials only; a fly is not a hook to which sinkers, molded weights or plastic bodies, spinners, spoons, or similar attractors are attached I read this to say that, for example, lead wire wrapped on the hook is OK, but split shot on the line is not. P51: Fall River: Restricted to fly angling only with barbless hooks P52: Metolius River: Restricted to artificial flies and lures downstream from bridge 99. Restricted to artificial flies only upstream from bridge 99. I know lead is not permitted either (because I’ve been told too!) but if I nymph I use beadheads – pheasant tails,etc. Bill

— Not speaking for anyone but myself

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -(RLPPT) writes: Last September, when we honeymooned around Bend, we were fishing the Fall and the Metolius and were told by other anglers (well, one in each place, actually..) that no lead (ie:split shot, putty, etc.) was permitted in either river.  Nor were lead-weighted flies.  So, we did not use them. However, I scoured the Oregon regs booklet and could find no such regs specific to either river. We plan to return next month for a week and want to abide by the law, however, we’d also like to be able to fish nymphs in the conventional manner we do here in the east, with lead on the leader, etc.  Can anyone clarify this for me? Is it really the law?  Additionally, if it is so, does the prohibition extend to the non toxic shots and putties?  Any help appreciated.. In return, we promise not to move to Oregon, but reserve the right to visit occasionally…:)  Thanks!  

Hi RLPPT, When I lived in Oregon (76 – 87), lead on the leader was not allowed in any "fly fishing  only" waters such as the upper part of the North Umpqua River (don’t know if it’s still designated so).  So, you need to check the general regs on "fly fishing only" waters or what defines fly fishing as far as Oregon is concerned.   There was no prohibition against lead in the fly, just not allowed on the leader.  Story goes this came about because some folks were snagging steelhead and salmon by using huge flies with double hooks and huge chunks of lead on the leader to get around the ff only regs.   Part of the Metolius at the time was also designated ff only then, and again you couldn’t use lead on the leader.  Fish in this spring creek part of the river (changes as you move downstream) were partial to small flies which were really hard to get down to them without weight.  Folks would tie up some larger weighted nymphs (even stoneflies) and run a small PT on a dropper.  Fish always took the PT.  The Tungsten Beads (much heavier than the normal beads) used as a thorax on a PT make it possible to get down a small fly without the second heavily weighted one. This one is probably worth a call to the Oregon DFW.                                      Good Fishing                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

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Question:

I recently moved to Atlanta, GA  and was wondering if anyone knew of any good spots to fly fish around here…Either wet or dry flies…Possibly on the Chattahoochee River?? Any help will do.. Thanks in Advance RONNY

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Suggest Jimmy Jacobs books on "fly fishing North Georgia" -or- "trout streams of southern Appalachias".  Your local fly shops should have these books.  There are also several good sites on the net. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently moved to Atlanta, GA  and was wondering if anyone knew of any good spots to fly fish around here…Either wet or dry flies…Possibly on the Chattahoochee River?? Any help will do.. Thanks in Advance RONNY

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Question:

I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are there any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded out during that time with reasonable access to wading. Thanks for any advice. Brent Buckley

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: I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are : there : any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded : out during that time with reasonable access to wading. Sure, take a look through the entire N. Idaho region.  St. Joe, Lochsa, Selway, St. Maries, Marble Creek, Clearwater (all forks), …etc. All will be very high water.  I would guess the St. Joe might be the best option by end of June. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    : I have a business meeting in Pullman, Washington June 28 – 21.  Are    : there    : any trout streams in the area (3 – 4 hour radius) which won’t be flooded    : out during that time with reasonable access to wading.    Sure, take a look through the entire N. Idaho region.  St. Joe, Lochsa,    Selway, St. Maries, Marble Creek, Clearwater (all forks), …etc. But don’t neglect the Washington side of the Clearwater and lakes such as Lenore, Lenice, Amber to the west.  There are some pleasant small lakes around Lewiston, too.   — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster pgp key available at: ftp://ftp.cs.uidaho.edu/pub/foster/pgp-key.asc

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Question:

If you leave them outside in a worm box, watch out for ants, they will go for the dead ones and really take over the whole box. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Why your yard ? Wait till the rain falls and the temp. is about 54-56 deg. Go out in a neighborhood that doesn’t have curbs and pick them up off the street NEAR the edge of the grass. Put them in the fridge (about 45-50 deg.) in a container of damp (use rain water)buss bedding (wal-mart) and they will keep for weeks.(pick out the dead ones once in a while)..Enjoy                                                                       SuqRivGui                                                       Allen

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got a old crank telephone and some wire and a couple of long rods???…use your imagination and wear rubber boots and gloves.be sure to go when it is wet .  they can jump about 2-3′ so cath them in a bucket as they fall.  no mess. It also help to read any storey about Mark Twain to them exactually 34 minutes before cranking the phone..  

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I have heard of a few things to gather earthworms. {snip} Oh, there is one more way.  Lay in the yard and make a sound like an apple.

EXCELLENT!!!! Seriously, I can’t stop laughing!!! Remember: a bad day of fishing is better than a good day at work!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Once you have gone fishing, put the extra worms in a flower bed, or in your garden.  They will help the soil, and soon, you will have a reliable source of wigglies.  Don’t poison them with insecticides of fertilizer, though. Steve, the DsrtTravlr

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try a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water on damp ground that you know contains crawlers 10–15 minutes should have all you need.

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conesus lake (finger lakes region) $500/week see http://members.aol.com/cobbshill/cottage.html for details http://members.aol.com/cobbshill

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At dusk just put the sprinkler on in the front yard,  let it run for an hour or two, until the ground is soaked.  After dark turn it off, get your flashlight and pail and go pick them up.  Because of the water in the ground they will be lying right on top.  It works like a charm in my yard although it is kinda of a muddy procedure.  Good luck.. Lorry…….I fish, therefore I am

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I am really intersted in trying to catch my own nite crawlers in my yard.  I’ve heard of sticking a pitch fork in the ground and wiggling it, watering the lawn, and a lot of other things, but from your personell experiences, what is the best way to get them?  Oh yeah, what is a GRUNT WORM?  Are they in Michigan or what?  And one more thing, besides this one, what is another good fishing newsgroup?  Thanks so much, talk to you later!

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I am really intersted in trying to catch my own nite crawlers in my yard.  I’ve heard of sticking a pitch fork in the ground and wiggling it, watering the lawn, and a lot of other things, but from your personell experiences, what is the best way to get them?  Oh yeah, what is a GRUNT WORM?  Are they in Michigan or what?  And one more thing, besides this one, what is another good fishing newsgroup?  Thanks so much, talk to you later!

Hi Matt, If you have them in your yard it won’t be hard. Some people use electricity to get them out, but it can be a little dangerous. We went out at night with a can or bag and a little flashlight in our mouth on our hands and knees. You would see the night crawlers shin and then just grab them. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I am really intersted in trying to catch my own nite crawlers in my yard.  I’ve heard of sticking a pitch fork in the ground and wiggling it, watering the lawn, and a lot of other things, but from your personell experiences, what is the best way to get them?  Oh yeah, what is a GRUNT WORM?  Are they in Michigan or what?  And one more thing, besides this one, what is another good fishing newsgroup?  Thanks so much, talk to you later!

I always liked catching night crawlers in Upstate Ny.  The night dew would usually bring them out.  You can find them just about everywhere, especially in gardens and flower beds. Alos, you need to wear sneakers and walk very lightly.  When you grab one, do not pull too hard or it will break off.  I first just stop it from going back in, and then pull gently straight up or at the angle of the hole.  Usually can get about 12 dozen in about 2 hours.   You can keep them easily enough, too.  We would buy the worm bedding, or mix some dirt with moist dead leaves.  Keep them in a large container in the basement where it is always cool and damp.  They’ll keep all summer, and will even reproduce. Good hunting, Joe

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I have heard of a few things to gather earthworms. One is electricity.  It is hazardous. Alternating current worm getters were sold, and then recalled when people ended up laying in the grass and writhing along with the worms.  I have heard that the current from a battery charger will work.  With any electricity, you have to be very careful.   Grunting for worms is when you take two thin pieces of wood about 2-3 feet long.  Originally, they used two barrel staves.  One was held with one hand pushing it down into the ground.  The other stave was raked across the one in the ground with a violin bow motion making a "grunting" noise. The frequency of the sounds would cause the worms to become uncomfortable, and they would come to the surface.   I have also heard that spraying a light bleach solution on grass makes them come out.  Don’t know what it does to the yard. I think that the time of day has a lot to do with gathering worms, with the evening and very early morning hours being the best.  I have had good success after a rain, too.   Oh, there is one more way.  Lay in the yard and make a sound like an apple. Once you have gone fishing, put the extra worms in a flower bed, or in your garden.  They will help the soil, and soon, you will have a reliable source of wigglies.  Don’t poison them with insecticides of fertilizer, though. Steve, the DsrtTravlr

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I am really intersted in trying to catch my own nite crawlers in my yard. —  Thanks so much, talk to you later!

Find and get a product called "Worm-Up"  Believe me this stuff really works, is harmless both to the worms and your yard and you’ll get all the "Dew Worms" (which is what your "nite crawler" is usually called in Ontario!!!) that you’ll ever need!! Just follow the package instructions and you can pick ‘em up right  off the top of the ground, in broad daylight!!!!  Even in places where you’d never expect to find ‘em, like an asphalt driveway, maybe? I don’t have any commercial interest in this product, but I got a sample package at the "Canadian Sportsman Show" many years ago and when I found it really worked I went and bought some more! "Le Baron’s" always carries it in Canada, anyway. Phil

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Why your yard ? Wait till the rain falls and the temp. is about 54-56 deg. Go out in a neighborhood that doesn’t have curbs and pick them up off the street NEAR the edge of the grass. Put them in the fridge (about 45-50 deg.) in a container of damp (use rain water)buss bedding (wal-mart) and they will keep for weeks.(pick out the dead ones once in a while)..Enjoy                                                                       SuqRivGui                                                       Allen

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Question:

Humor is the Best Antidote A recent opinion/commentary by Salem, Oregon newspaper reporter Henry Miller tersely contended among other things, that fly angling and spinfishing with casting bubble and a fly, are one and the same.   Inspired by Miller’s profound ignorance of flyfishing and it’s centuries-old heritage, I hearby present The Henry Miller, a new genre of fly angling humor: "Henry Miller is so dumb…" …he thinks fly dressing is made by Kraft and sold at Waremart. …he thinks a streamer is someone who fishes…what else?  Streams. …he thinks a roll cast is tossing bread to the ducks on Mill Creek. …he thinks Korkers are steelhead baits. …he thinks a double haul is two truck loads of top soil. …he thinks a dry fly is a no-drinks America West flight. …he thinks Mustad 9672 is a television program. …he thinks stripping line is a single’s bar come-on. …he thinks a riffle is a 30.06. …he thinks pocket water is a very small canteen. …he thinks herl means projectile regurgitation. …he thinks Sage is a kitchen spice. …he thinks a Royal Coachman is Prince Charles’ chauffeur. …he thinks fly casting refers to actor Jeff Goldblum. …he thinks a blood knot is a marriage of cousins. …he thinks 4X refers to a brand of condom. …he thinks dubbing is a lip sink. …he thinks The Big Horn is taking "cuts" in a movie line. …he thinks a fly rod is an insect’s reproductive appendage. …he thinks rod wraps are corporal punishment. …he thinks Orvis refers to a mouth, nose, or ear. …he thinks mending a line means equivocation. …he thinks a graphite rod is a pencil. …he thinks Haig-Brown is a fly pattern. …he thinks catch and release is a sin. …he thinks fish wrapper doesn’t refer to his column. Send your Henry Millers to: Jon Hazen – List Keeper Jon Hazen

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Humor is the Best Antidote A recent opinion/commentary by Salem, Oregon newspaper reporter Henry Miller tersely contended among other things, that fly angling and spinfishing with casting bubble and a fly, are one and the same. Inspired by Miller’s profound ignorance of flyfishing and it’s centuries-old heritage, I hearby present The Henry Miller, a new genre of fly angling humor: "Henry Miller is so dumb…" …he thinks fly dressing is made by Kraft and sold at Waremart. …he thinks a streamer is someone who fishes…what else?  Streams. …he thinks a roll cast is tossing bread to the ducks on Mill Creek. …he thinks Korkers are steelhead baits. …he thinks a double haul is two truck loads of top soil. …he thinks a dry fly is a no-drinks America West flight. …he thinks Mustad 9672 is a television program. …he thinks stripping line is a single’s bar come-on. …he thinks a riffle is a 30.06. …he thinks pocket water is a very small canteen. …he thinks herl means projectile regurgitation. …he thinks Sage is a kitchen spice. …he thinks a Royal Coachman is Prince Charles’ chauffeur. …he thinks fly casting refers to actor Jeff Goldblum. …he thinks a blood knot is a marriage of cousins. …he thinks 4X refers to a brand of condom. …he thinks dubbing is a lip sink. …he thinks The Big Horn is taking "cuts" in a movie line. …he thinks a fly rod is an insect’s reproductive appendage. …he thinks rod wraps are corporal punishment. …he thinks Orvis refers to a mouth, nose, or ear. …he thinks mending a line means equivocation. …he thinks a graphite rod is a pencil. …he thinks Haig-Brown is a fly pattern. …he thinks catch and release is a sin. …he thinks fish wrapper doesn’t refer to his column.

…he thinks steelhead is the ammo for a 30.06. …he thinks nymph is the synonym for nymphet. …he thinks A River Runs Through It is Chicago’s motto. …he thinks a leader is Bill or Newt (take your pick!). Musconet

Response:

Humor is the Best Antidote A recent opinion/commentary by Salem, Oregon newspaper reporter Henry Miller tersely contended among other things, that fly angling and spinfishing with casting bubble and a fly, are one and the same.  

BEING A RESIDENT OF OREGON, I THOUGHT I’D ADVISE YOU THAT MR. MILLER’S USE OF THE TERM FLY ANGLING IS CORRECT IN IT’S COMPARISON TO SPIN FISHING WITH A FLY AND BUBBLE. HERE ON THE NORTH UMPQUA WE HAVE 35 MILES OF FLY ANGLING ONLY WATER. AND YES, FISHING WITH A FLY AND BUBBLE AS WELL AS WITH CONVENTIONAL FLYFISHING TACKLE IS ALLOWED. IT IS "FLY ANGLING" NOT "FLYFISHING" PERHAPS YOUR HUMOR MIGHT BE REDIRECTED! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Inspired by Miller’s profound ignorance of flyfishing and it’s centuries-old heritage, I hearby present The Henry Miller, a new genre of fly angling humor: "Henry Miller is so dumb…" …he thinks fly dressing is made by Kraft and sold at Waremart. …he thinks a streamer is someone who fishes…what else?  Streams. …he thinks a roll cast is tossing bread to the ducks on Mill Creek. …he thinks Korkers are steelhead baits. …he thinks a double haul is two truck loads of top soil. …he thinks a dry fly is a no-drinks America West flight. …he thinks Mustad 9672 is a television program. …he thinks stripping line is a single’s bar come-on. …he thinks a riffle is a 30.06. …he thinks pocket water is a very small canteen. …he thinks herl means projectile regurgitation. …he thinks Sage is a kitchen spice. …he thinks a Royal Coachman is Prince Charles’ chauffeur. …he thinks fly casting refers to actor Jeff Goldblum. …he thinks a blood knot is a marriage of cousins. …he thinks 4X refers to a brand of condom. …he thinks dubbing is a lip sink. …he thinks The Big Horn is taking "cuts" in a movie line. …he thinks a fly rod is an insect’s reproductive appendage. …he thinks rod wraps are corporal punishment. …he thinks Orvis refers to a mouth, nose, or ear. …he thinks mending a line means equivocation. …he thinks a graphite rod is a pencil. …he thinks Haig-Brown is a fly pattern. …he thinks catch and release is a sin. …he thinks fish wrapper doesn’t refer to his column. Send your Henry Millers to: Jon Hazen – List Keeper Jon Hazen

Response:

Humor is the Best Antidote A recent opinion/commentary by Salem, Oregon newspaper reporter Henry Miller tersely contended among other things, that fly angling and spinfishing with casting bubble and a fly, are one and the same.  

Menard) spat: BEING A RESIDENT OF OREGON, I THOUGHT I’D ADVISE YOU THAT MR. MILLER’S USE OF THE TERM FLY ANGLING IS CORRECT IN IT’S COMPARISON TO SPIN FISHING WITH A FLY AND BUBBLE. HERE ON THE NORTH UMPQUA WE HAVE 35 MILES OF FLY ANGLING ONLY WATER. AND YES, FISHING WITH A FLY AND BUBBLE AS WELL AS WITH CONVENTIONAL FLYFISHING TACKLE IS ALLOWED. IT IS "FLY ANGLING" NOT "FLYFISHING" PERHAPS YOUR HUMOR MIGHT BE REDIRECTED!

Oh my god…a knitpicker…without a sense of humor or a lowercase keyboard.   "Better get the gaff and the bat for this one."  :) Inspired by Miller’s profound ignorance of flyfishing and it’s centuries-old heritage, I hearby present The Henry Miller, a new genre of fly angling humor: "Henry Miller is so dumb…" …he thinks The Big Horn is taking "cuts" in a movie long line. …he thinks fish wrapper doesn’t refer to his column.

Jon Hazen

Response:

Question:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.   Thanks, Spidey

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.

What you need is a pair of circlip pliers, the type that open as you squeeze the handles, You’d get them at a hardware store.  Put the ends of the circlip pliers inside the bcr, squeeze gently and the ball will just drop out.

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Art supplies aren’t the first thing to come to mind when thinking of where to get new pliers. Hardware hardware hardware. Up here we have Eagle Hardware (unaware of stores outside of WA) Eagle is the shit…and a good place to get all the heavy hardware for your SM/BD needs…usually a handsome *bear* to help you to boot. Seattle is such a piercing friendly place, if I went to the hardware store asking for pliers to open my cbr’s they’d prolly lead me right to them.   You could also wrap tape around the jaws of a pair of needle nose…those are real easy to barrow, you have 14ga rings, those don’t really require special tools. Good luck in your shopping Qathi — "I appreciate and support Lani’s efforts to keep r.a.b. a useful, interesting, readable newsgroup"    =^..^=            =^..^=

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I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Depending on which part of the country you’re from, you’ll find them called circlip pliers, reverse pliers or lock-ring pliers.  I found a pair at my local hardware store for about $10.  However, my guess is that you won’t need them for a 14g ring.  I can open anything under 12g with my fingers….. laura

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

For opening the ring (assuming its not soft enough to turn with your bare hands) I’d head off to a hardware store and ask for Snap Ring Pliers.  Wrap the ends in tape (masking or even better, first-aid tape) to avoid scratches. For closure, pretty much any generic pliers will do, thuogh if you’re feeling really fancy, you could get jewellers pliers. In either case, avoid scratching the jewelry, and ensure that your instruments are clean!  Its simple and easy to use a pressure-cooker that’ll kill off any nasties.  Either that, or consider going to a piercer to do it for you.  Most will do it gladly for a minimal fee, or (like we do) a hefty tip. Denise Robinson, AMBIENT "Peerless Prodigies of Physical Phenomena!"         Ottawa, Canada- EH! (613)723-4779         http://infoweb.magi.com/~ambient/

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

 Like everyone else said, go to a hardware store, get snap ring pliers. If you want to get a look at what these tools look like before heading to the store, poke around on "Gauntlet’s" web page. Or just do like Denise Robinson suggested:  "Either that, or consider going to a piercer to do it for you." Best luck, Jeff.

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue. If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip. If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing. Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers. —                                  * Ardvark *                               Anne  Greenblatt                   Piercing FAQ Manager for rec.arts.bodyart                              Piercing Exquisite                          http://www.c2.org/~ardvark/

Response:

– – I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 – g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the – ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be – looking for.   – – -Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to -different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that -are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue. – -If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove -the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip. – -If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent -scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing. – -Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just -enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring -expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers. Or your local hardware store  :) Me, a couple of weeks ago at the hardware store:    ME: "I’m looking for expanding ring pliers"    CLERK: "What are you using them for?"    ME: "I need to change my jewelry"    CLERK: "PA?" Which lead to a discussion of our various pierces… I put heat-shrink tubing on the jaws of the pliers to keep from scratching the jewelry. —         Steve Carter      

Response:

Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue.

I have found slightly twisting the ring sideways, rather than spreading it works, and it’s fairly easy to ‘flatten’ the ring back into shape if you go too far, rather than trying to reform a circle.  I also used that technique in everything from jewlry making to fly fishing If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip.

A garage handiwipe or cotten kitchen wipe rag works well too, and wont scratch. They are usually blue, in a pop up dispenser, are thicker, and give a grip, without grit and I can’t remember the brand for the life of me, ….  Some brands of finger cots, made of a slightly thicker latex than durible condoms, also give good grip without damage on smaller jewlry (esp if you have small fingers).  The only way to know is to try them.  You can find them in pharmacies and sometimes bead-shops. If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing.

Heat shrink tubing, or specifically plastic eletricians tape works well. Also, using FLAT pliers, without teeth, is better, since damage to the ball is truly minimized… *OR* use a plier that has been slightly modified by removing just enough teeth to let a ball nestle in it, and use the electricians tape to provide a cushioned grip.  I have a modified craftsman pliers that has worked well like this on the larger guages, giving a good grip – espeically for trying to INSERT the ball into the closed ring. Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers.

Yes, and come in many sizes… they are good, with a gentle touch, to pop the ball out, and in conjunction with a soft grip pliers like the one above, the ball can be inserted/removed while the ring is held slightly open by the expanding pliers. Of course, for each ring size, you need to have a set of pliers <G… gets expensive for a shop to buy all at once…. but getting one pair for your own jewlry should be affordable — about as much as a new ring. — BodyArtist Practioner in Flesh http://www.bodyart.com     Gallery Area & Members Areas Available Custom scanning 35mm & Prints.    In Pittsburgh – while you wait!

Response:

Ummmm, okay, thanks everyone fore replying.  This is kind of weird because I posted the original question about two months ago, and got replies then, all of the sudden there are more?   But yes, I did get the right kind of pliers, I need to expand the ring for a new super cool bead that is a little wider than the original one.  

Response:

Question:

In California we have lots of dragon & damsel flies in our warm water ponds. We use some pretty fancy looking dragon fly nymphs, but I think a wooly bugger tied the size and color of you bugs will work as well.

[snip] Quite so: no need to go nuts with long-winded/tediously overdone dragon nymph patterns. If you’ve ever actually seen a dragon nymph move out, you know how damn fast those critters are, and how little time a trout/bass/whatever has to spot/target/nail ‘em. Wooly Buggers tied in general size/color with good tail action work just fine on the Right Coast, and a couple of strands of pearl flashabou seems to get the fish’s attention from greater distances as well… Cheers! /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.       Alpha Server Engineering < <     "What doesn’t kill you…will hurt like heck!"     < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In California we have lots of dragon & damsel flies in our warm water ponds. We use some pretty fancy looking dragon fly nymphs, but I think a wooly bugger tied the size and color of you bugs will work as well. [snip] Quite so: no need to go nuts with long-winded/tediously overdone dragon nymph patterns. If you’ve ever actually seen a dragon nymph move out, you know how damn fast those critters are, and how little time a trout/bass/whatever has to spot/target/nail ‘em. Wooly Buggers tied in general size/color with good tail action work just fine on the Right Coast, and a couple of strands of pearl flashabou seems to get the fish’s attention from greater distances as well… Cheers! /dave

I may be fooling myself, but I like to add the black plastic eyes.  Some of the bugs have very prominent eyes, and I feel like these work a scootch better.  And if nothing else, they make my wife squeal more when I show her the fly. My three year old loves ‘em, too. I don’t go for any other anatomical features.  A sparse, fat, wooly bugger with eyes works great.

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I fish a local pond, which happens to be choked with weeds and cattails, for bass and blugill.  I have noticed a large population of both dragonflys and damselflys.  I would think the fish must eat a lot of the flies larvae.  So, what are the best patterns for these critters.   BTW, thanks for answering my other questions.  Taking up flyfishing is giving me lots of them, but isn’t that the best part of fishing? Nicolo

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In South Africa a large proportion of our fishing is for stillwater trout. We tend to have a large concentration of dragon/damsel flies in our waters over here. I tend to imitate the damselflies by using a small Wooly Bugger(size 12-14) or Filoplume damsel. For a dragonfly I either use a Hoverdragon or a pattern that I learnt from our flytying club(NFDS). The body/thorax is made up of maribou and the eyes are tuff chenile. If you need the fly tying patterns just give a shout! Paul

Response:

Some Damselfly and Dragonfly patterns used for trout here in B.C. include: Damselfly: ‘52 Buick large Halfback Dragonfly: Bottomwalker Gomphus Doc Spratley B. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fish a local pond, which happens to be choked with weeds and cattails, for bass and blugill.  I have noticed a large population of both dragonflys and damselflys.  I would think the fish must eat a lot of the flies larvae.  So, what are the best patterns for these critters.   BTW, thanks for answering my other questions.  Taking up flyfishing is giving me lots of them, but isn’t that the best part of fishing? Nicolo

Response:

I fish a local pond, which happens to be choked with weeds and cattails, for bass and blugill.  I have noticed a large population of both dragonflys and damselflys.  I would think the fish must eat a lot of the flies larvae.  So, what are the best patterns for these critters.  

Hi Nicolo, In California we have lots of dragon & damsel flies in our warm water ponds.  We use some pretty fancy looking dragon fly nymphs, but I think a wooly bugger tied the size and color of you bugs will work as well. Trout feeding on emerging damsels requires matching their size, color and action.  I think that bass and panfish are a little less selective.  We also use small/medium poppers for warm water fish.  I like all black poppers and yellow or frog colored, also. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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