Question:

I got the Champion today and had a tournament tonight, so my first ride was blasting out of the gates as my number was called.  Not a pretty sight.  I punch it and the jumped on plane then cavitated and sunk a$s end into the water. Never had a boat with a hydrofoil on it before, is this common? Ok, I eased it onto plane trimmed up the motor boat and away we go.  Get to the spot I want to start at, ok, how do I get the troll motor in the water (Its an Autopilot with cordless foot pedal and I never had one of these either).  So I start pushing buttons but nothing is happening.  So I kick the motor and it pops into the water.  Ok, now how do I steer this thing! Ok, the pedal doesn’t rock forward or backwards but it does rock side to side and the motor turns.  Has a rocker switch for continuous and another rocker switch for intermittent.  Ok, by this time I am ready to drift right into someone’s dock.  This non-cable troll motor is actually easier to use once you get use to it (but it took me about 2 hours to get fully adjusted to using it).  But in the mean time, I look at all the electronics.  I have a Lowrance X5 on the console, a Lowrance 2260 Flasher on the bow and a 400TX Hummingbird LCD.  Of course I never had any of these units either so I’m trying to learn them on the fly as I’m fishing in a tournament. I have made enough noise in this area that I decide to move to my next area. Ok, how do I get the troll motor up?  Grab the head and pull it and it turns and stores itself away.  Trim the motor down, Punch it, the boat pops out of the water instantly – cavitates and sinks as$ end into water (is this caused by that hydro foil?).  Ease it up onto plane and away I go, trim up the motor and I’m flying.  The steering is a little stiffer than I’m use to and I have to fight it to make a left.  Turns right on a dime.  Handles rough water very nice. — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

Craig, Take that stupid hydrofoil p.o.s. off that boat, it doesn’t need it.  Please email me with specifics on Model, motor, HP, prop etc.  We’ll get that rig lined out right for you.  Every Champion made should have a 3 second hole shot without some barnyard hardware hanging off of it. Pat

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I got the Champion today and had a tournament tonight, so my first ride was blasting out of the gates as my number was called.  Not a pretty sight.  I punch it and the jumped on plane then cavitated and sunk a$s end into the water. Never had a boat with a hydrofoil on it before, is this common? Ok, I eased it onto plane trimmed up the motor boat and away we go.  Get to the spot I want to start at, ok, how do I get the troll motor in the water (Its an Autopilot with cordless foot pedal and I never had one of these either).  So I start pushing buttons but nothing is happening.  So I kick the motor and it pops into the water.  Ok, now how do I steer this thing! Ok, the pedal doesn’t rock forward or backwards but it does rock side to side and the motor turns.  Has a rocker switch for continuous and another rocker switch for intermittent.  Ok, by this time I am ready to drift right into someone’s dock.  This non-cable troll motor is actually easier to use once you get use to it (but it took me about 2 hours to get fully adjusted to using it).  But in the mean time, I look at all the electronics.  I have a Lowrance X5 on the console, a Lowrance 2260 Flasher on the bow and a 400TX Hummingbird LCD.  Of course I never had any of these units either so I’m trying to learn them on the fly as I’m fishing in a tournament. I have made enough noise in this area that I decide to move to my next area. Ok, how do I get the troll motor up?  Grab the head and pull it and it turns and stores itself away.  Trim the motor down, Punch it, the boat pops out of the water instantly – cavitates and sinks as$ end into water (is this caused by that hydro foil?).  Ease it up onto plane and away I go, trim up the motor and I’m flying.  The steering is a little stiffer than I’m use to and I have to fight it to make a left.  Turns right on a dime.  Handles rough water very nice. — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

First off.. WOW!! NICE RIG!! I am *very* envious of you .  From what I know, and it ain’t alot mind you, that sinking problem doesn’t sound right. I would recommend taking that Hydrofoil off, as I don’t know the specifics of your boat, but I’m pretty sure it doesn’t need it.  I’ve seen a Champion with a 150 Johnson do a holeshot in the time it took me to go to full throttle!  Maybe try playing with your trim on your holeshot some, when the ass end starts heading into the water, start trimming your motor in, that may help.   Just out of curiosity, what model/HP is it? Good luck, and good fishin’!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I got the Champion today and had a tournament tonight, so my first ride was blasting out of the gates as my number was called.  Not a pretty sight.  I punch it and the jumped on plane then cavitated and sunk a$s end into the water. Never had a boat with a hydrofoil on it before, is this common? Ok, I eased it onto plane trimmed up the motor boat and away we go.  Get to the spot I want to start at, ok, how do I get the troll motor in the water (Its an Autopilot with cordless foot pedal and I never had one of these either).  So I start pushing buttons but nothing is happening.  So I kick the motor and it pops into the water.  Ok, now how do I steer this thing! Ok, the pedal doesn’t rock forward or backwards but it does rock side to side and the motor turns.  Has a rocker switch for continuous and another rocker switch for intermittent.  Ok, by this time I am ready to drift right into someone’s dock.  This non-cable troll motor is actually easier to use once you get use to it (but it took me about 2 hours to get fully adjusted to using it).  But in the mean time, I look at all the electronics.  I have a Lowrance X5 on the console, a Lowrance 2260 Flasher on the bow and a 400TX Hummingbird LCD.  Of course I never had any of these units either so I’m trying to learn them on the fly as I’m fishing in a tournament. I have made enough noise in this area that I decide to move to my next area. Ok, how do I get the troll motor up?  Grab the head and pull it and it turns and stores itself away.  Trim the motor down, Punch it, the boat pops out of the water instantly – cavitates and sinks as$ end into water (is this caused by that hydro foil?).  Ease it up onto plane and away I go, trim up the motor and I’m flying.  The steering is a little stiffer than I’m use to and I have to fight it to make a left.  Turns right on a dime.  Handles rough water very nice. — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

ROFL! Wish all of my competition was so prepared! We’ve all been there. Want to get the new toys goin ASAP. You didn’t mention if you also got plauged with the new boat jinx? Any fish? Dan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I got the Champion today and had a tournament tonight, so my first ride was blasting out of the gates as my number was called.  Not a pretty sight.  I punch it and the jumped on plane then cavitated and sunk a$s end into the water. Never had a boat with a hydrofoil on it before, is this common? Ok, I eased it onto plane trimmed up the motor boat and away we go.  Get to the spot I want to start at, ok, how do I get the troll motor in the water (Its an Autopilot with cordless foot pedal and I never had one of these either).  So I start pushing buttons but nothing is happening.  So I kick the motor and it pops into the water.  Ok, now how do I steer this thing! Ok, the pedal doesn’t rock forward or backwards but it does rock side to side and the motor turns.  Has a rocker switch for continuous and another rocker switch for intermittent.  Ok, by this time I am ready to drift right into someone’s dock.  This non-cable troll motor is actually easier to use once you get use to it (but it took me about 2 hours to get fully adjusted to using it).  But in the mean time, I look at all the electronics.  I have a Lowrance X5 on the console, a Lowrance 2260 Flasher on the bow and a 400TX Hummingbird LCD.  Of course I never had any of these units either so I’m trying to learn them on the fly as I’m fishing in a tournament. I have made enough noise in this area that I decide to move to my next area. Ok, how do I get the troll motor up?  Grab the head and pull it and it turns and stores itself away.  Trim the motor down, Punch it, the boat pops out of the water instantly – cavitates and sinks as$ end into water (is this caused by that hydro foil?).  Ease it up onto plane and away I go, trim up the motor and I’m flying.  The steering is a little stiffer than I’m use to and I have to fight it to make a left.  Turns right on a dime.  Handles rough water very nice. — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

Kill the hydrofoil Craig, it’s keeping you down.  You’ll see the difference instantly.  Why would anyone put that stupid thing on the Champion? Warren2

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I got the Champion today and had a tournament tonight, so my first ride was blasting out of the gates as my number was called.  Not a pretty sight.  I punch it and the jumped on plane then cavitated and sunk a$s end into the water. Never had a boat with a hydrofoil on it before, is this common? Ok, I eased it onto plane trimmed up the motor boat and away we go.  Get to the spot I want to start at, ok, how do I get the troll motor in the water (Its an Autopilot with cordless foot pedal and I never had one of these either).  So I start pushing buttons but nothing is happening.  So I kick the motor and it pops into the water.  Ok, now how do I steer this thing! Ok, the pedal doesn’t rock forward or backwards but it does rock side to side and the motor turns.  Has a rocker switch for continuous and another rocker switch for intermittent.  Ok, by this time I am ready to drift right into someone’s dock.  This non-cable troll motor is actually easier to use once you get use to it (but it took me about 2 hours to get fully adjusted to using it).  But in the mean time, I look at all the electronics.  I have a Lowrance X5 on the console, a Lowrance 2260 Flasher on the bow and a 400TX Hummingbird LCD.  Of course I never had any of these units either so I’m trying to learn them on the fly as I’m fishing in a tournament. I have made enough noise in this area that I decide to move to my next area. Ok, how do I get the troll motor up?  Grab the head and pull it and it turns and stores itself away.  Trim the motor down, Punch it, the boat pops out of the water instantly – cavitates and sinks as$ end into water (is this caused by that hydro foil?).  Ease it up onto plane and away I go, trim up the motor and I’m flying.  The steering is a little stiffer than I’m use to and I have to fight it to make a left.  Turns right on a dime.  Handles rough water very nice. — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

Did you catch any fish? Lakeland Florida

Response:

If I was fishing a Musky tournament I would have won.  But not one bass, not even a dink! — Craig Baugher Belleville, Michigan Website: http://gl3loomis.home.att.net/

Response:

Question:

I am planning to make a trip to the Charlottes shortly so that I can partake in a little winter steelheading there. I am trying to gather as much info. as I can before I go. Does anyone know what the steelheading has been like up there this season? Specifically, I am interested in fishing the Yakoun and, possibly, the Tlell rivers. I have been to the Yakoun before, but not the Tlell. I wonder, how well suited is the Tlell to fly fishing? Are the reaches above tide water easy to get at. Any kind hearted soul who with some useful info can reach me at: Thanks in advance.

Response:

Please post info.  we are interested on your findings! Thanks. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am planning to make a trip to the Charlottes shortly so that I can partake in a little winter steelheading there. I am trying to gather as much info. as I can before I go. Does anyone know what the steelheading has been like up there this season? Specifically, I am interested in fishing the Yakoun and, possibly, the Tlell rivers. I have been to the Yakoun before, but not the Tlell. I wonder, how well suited is the Tlell to fly fishing? Are the reaches above tide water easy to get at. Any kind hearted soul who with some useful info can reach me at: Thanks in advance.

Response:

I am planning to make a trip to the Charlottes shortly so that I can partake in a little winter steelheading there. I am trying to gather as much info.

Essential:  James Houston’s memoir Hideaway. He has had a house there for decades. — |        Carlsbad Springs, Ottawa, Canada        |

Response:

Question:

Hi Bob Have a look in  our fly catalog. Let us know what you think. www.popularfishingflies.com Popular Fishing Flies Robert Lindberg. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

Response:

Check out the site http://www.virtualflybox.com.  They have a LOT of flies and pics there. David T. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

http://www.mwflytying.com/default.html http://www.flyanglersonline.com http://members.mint.net/raske.index.html http://killroys.com/default.htm#sitemenu

Response:

Sorry I missed the backslash off   http://members.mint-net/raske/index.html

Response:

Pix of flies at http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

Response:

Take a look at these locations: http://www.flyline.com/flys/patrns.htm http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/list.html#Stream Ernie Harrison Have you tried a Blood Knot Machine?  http://home.pacbell.net/ernie2 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Pix of flies at http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

Response:

Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

Response:

I don’t have a Web site suggestion. Instead, may I suggest a book: The Classic Guide to Fly-Fishing for Trout Charles Jardine ISBN 0-394-58719-7 It was published in 1991 in Great Britain, so it doesn’t have all the patterns you’ll come across, but it does have 60 full color pages of flies (about 8 flies per page) as well as a complete directory of fly dressings (i.e. what hook sizes and materials are used to tie each fly). For your viewing pleasure, I scanned a page of the book (warning: 200K image) and put it at: http://www.ipass.net/~stevez/images/flypics.jpg Any discoloration in fly patterns is likely an artifact of my scanner, not the author. I invite the input of experienced fly fishermen to comment on this book, but I love it. It is an absolutely beautiful hardcover book that I keep alternately on my coffee table at home and on the desk in my office. Steve Zimmerman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I always seem to be looking for pix of flies I’ve heard about to try and learn something about them. Can anyone recommend several "best" sites that show a large selection of fly pictures (besides England’s and the Virtual fly box)? Thanks, Bob

Response:

Question:

I have recently begun fly fishing and am from the New Orleans area. Can anyone offer some specific areas to fish near here. I know there are many places around here, I just don’t know where they are. I am looking for places to fish both from a boat and from shore or wading. I’ve been with a guide, but it won’t take long to run out of money if I use one every time I want to fish. Thanks. Larry

Response:

My suggestion is to go see Tom at Bayou Specialties in Jefferson–he can point you in the right direction–and tell him Jeff Boudreaux sent you. Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have recently begun fly fishing and am from the New Orleans area. Can anyone offer some specific areas to fish near here. I know there are many places around here, I just don’t know where they are. I am looking for places to fish both from a boat and from shore or wading. I’ve been with a guide, but it won’t take long to run out of money if I use one every time I want to fish. Thanks. Larry

Response:

Lake Calcasieu (sp.?) near Lake Charles is supposed to be excellent for salt water.  You can contact Dave at Orvis Houston 713-783-1111 or an Orvis shop if you have one in N.O. for more info & good guides info. Tight lines Al Carlton

Response:

Larry… was just going through the newsgroups postings and found your request…hope you don’t mind some advice. In order to be successful you need to find an area that you like and get to know it….well! No one can just pull into somewhere they’ve never been before and expect to put fish in the boat. It takes time to learn a spot geographically, as well as the tidal effects, fly selection, etc. Even though I am a guide and have fished all over the US for the last 30 years or so….I always hire a guide the first day or two I go somewhere new. When I feel I know what’s going on, then I strike out on my own…it’s the only way to optimize your chances. As far as the guide thing goes, yes…I agree it is expensive. However, there are ways to captilize on your investment. First…find a good guide who works in the area you want to learn. In New Orleans, I’d call Capt. Kirby LeCour (540-464-1697..tell him I recommended you). Tell him you want to learn the area so you can fish on your own. When you go out, ask a LOT of questions…pay attention to WHERE you go….and spend your time LEARNING…not worrying about how many fish you put in the box. By the way, one gentleman referred you to the ORVIS store in Houston. He also suggested you fish Calcasieu Lake in SW Louisiana. I agree with one of his points…Calcasieu is a great area. I know…I guide here. As for contacting them…well, caveat emptor. If I can be of any help, lemme know. Capt. Briant Smith Lake Charles, LA

Response:

Question:

Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Brian,         I tie my own leaders.  When I tie a leader, I wrap a short strip of paper around it with the length, weight, and formula source listed on it.  When I use the leader, the slip of paper goes into my reel pocket on my vest.  That way, when I fish next time, I can see what leader I have on.  This only gets me in trouble when I use more than one spool.  But, the leaders are usually substantially different for different lines, so I can figure it out. — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters?

Lefty Kreh recommends using an indelible marker somewhere near the end and uses a code of a long stripe is 5 and a short mark is one. Then he identifies wt. forward by putting the short mark or marks in front (toward the end) of the 5 mark. For example a 7 wt forward line would be _.. (long short short) but a 7 wt. double taper would be .._ I imagine you could use an offset color for numbers less than 5 (ie. the off color short mark would be on one end or the other to show wt. forward or double taper). He never does explain how he would mark a 5 wt. line to show DT or WF. Perhaps 5 short marks to allow an off color mark on one end. I would imagine you could mark the 30 ft. spot the same way with indelible marker. I usually put the sticker on the spool when I attach the line. However, this is only convenient if you intend to leave the line on the spool always. $.02 Jon

Response:

Try Cortland Lazer Lines,they are marked as to size. Also Climax Double Doubles are marked. Climax WF fly lines have a telemark on the line at the optimum pick up point.In lay terms the line changes color at that point. Tight Loops KW —

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? I don’t mark my lines as the way I figure it if I can’t remember what line is on a reel or in a spare spool; I’ve got too many lines. Could have used that money to take the kids to a movie! Marking distance can be good when you’re learning to cast if you need to know how much line you need off the top of the rod to load; (just try to spot that mark as you false cast!) but in practice how much is in the air depends on what you’re doing. I’ve never done it in about 20 years of flyfishing and I never missed it.  It may be usefull if you want to be able to say to yourself " hoo-eee, I just made an 80 foot cast" and tells the boys in the Bar you’re finally an ‘expert’ As if they’d care. 8^) Ralph H replace "spamsucks" with direct for email reply.

I find marking full sinking line in 10ft intervals is helpful in determining how much line is out, especially if you want to repeat a depth after a fish.  I use a sharpie and add one ring for each ten feet of depth. — The views expressed are my own and does not represent those of my employer.

Response:

Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks?

I don’t mark my lines as the way I figure it if I can’t remember what line is on a reel or in a spare spool; I’ve got too many lines. Could have used that money to take the kids to a movie! Marking distance can be good when you’re learning to cast if you need to know how much line you need off the top of the rod to load; (just try to spot that mark as you false cast!) but in practice how much is in the air depends on what you’re doing. I’ve never done it in about 20 years of flyfishing and I never missed it.  It may be usefull if you want to be able to say to yourself " hoo-eee, I just made an 80 foot cast" and tells the boys in the Bar you’re finally an ‘expert’ As if they’d care. 8^) Ralph H replace "spamsucks" with direct for email reply.

Response:

I mark all my fly lines in the first foot or two by using a series of magic marker lines. A wide line (approx 1/2") equals five, a thin line (approx 1/8") equals one, if the small marks are closer to the tip subtract from the five marker(s) and if the small marks are towards the belly add to the five marker(s). This system has worked for me for over five years. I use a color coded magic marker system for saltwater leaders as well. I keep a notebook in my tacklebag which contains all my notes as to what color is what weight, etc. HTH. — Tom Dougherty A.K.’s Fly Tying Tools http://www.aks-flytools.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Response:

Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks?

I mark my lines at each end to show the line wt, mainly because I use a loop to loop connection between the line and backing. I use a Banford Sharpie permanent marker and use a wide mark for five and a narrow mark for one. I put the wide marks towards the front of the line. (I read this in a Lefty Kreh book but don’t know who invented the system).  I don’t use distance marks, the casting here in Georgia is usually pretty tight and the times I have fished the salt I just cast as far as I can and hope the fish can swim to my fly<g. FWIW. — Charlie…

Response:

Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Hi Brian For years I’ve marked my lines for length just because I’m such a louse judge of distance and for no other reason. I use an indelible felt tip marker — at 30′, one mark, at 40′, two markes, at 50′, three marks and so on out to 80′. From there I know it a short distance to the and and very honestly though I can throw the line when needed I seldom have to use that much line for normal fishing conditions here in Montana. Regarding what line is on what spool I’ve had no problem keeping the little sticker on the inside of the spool if I place a small piece of clear "shipping tape" over the line weight sticker. Take care &… — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Catalog,Tips & Tricks, Fishing Reports, & NeverSink at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod.

I tried this when a beginner.  It soon becomes a waste of time.  The "ideal amount of line" is not something you see with the conscious eye — it is something you feel unconsciously in your hand and arm, while the eye is on the fish and the water. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow.

Yes, until you have identified which line types you trust.  Once you prefer particular brands of floaters, tapers, sink tips etc. you can buy (most) in distinctive colours, i.e. use the manufacturers’ color codes to keep track. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code?

These questions do not arise for people who use a permanent leader butt, which lasts as long as the line.  Nylon is cheaper than time; you put on a fresh tippet at the start of each session anyway; and it is easy to replace the intermediate tapered section once a year or more often if you feel the need, e.g. using a trout outfit for salmon. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Question:

You are fishing an area and are hitting it regularly and waiting for the good fishing to start and it’s just a bit early and then the one time you don’t go you hear that everybody slammed them that day.  Tht is what happened to me this past weekend.  Ihave been fishing the Roanoke River constantly for a month or so fo the stripers to get going and getting a few but not really hot and heavy.  This past weekend I decided to stick aROUNd the house with the wife and of course I then heard that the fish were in thick and everybody caught a ton.  Figures. Gordon

Response:

You are fishing an area and are hitting it regularly and waiting for the good fishing to start and it’s just a bit early and then the one time you don’t go you hear that everybody slammed them that day.

Here in California on the coast there is an affliction called "alltimers disease" which plagues surfers.  The morning you don’t come out all your buddies catch it.  The next time you’re told "man (dude may be substituted), they were pumpin’.  All time best!"  Check your source for the following symptons: 1.  You usually outfish them 2.  When they tell a story where you are involved, only a tentative link to the reality of the situation remains. If either of these conditions are met, keep a close eye on them.  If both of these conditions are met, for godness sakes, don’t let them fish alone, they could be a prime candidate for Alltimers! Phil

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You are fishing an area and are hitting it regularly and waiting for the good fishing to start and it’s just a bit early and then the one time you don’t go you hear that everybody slammed them that day.  Tht is what happened to me this past weekend.  Ihave been fishing the Roanoke River constantly for a month or so fo the stripers to get going and getting a few but not really hot and heavy.  This past weekend I decided to stick aROUNd the house with the wife and of course I then heard that the fish were in thick and everybody caught a ton.  Figures. Gordon

Are you fishing the section near Brookneal VA. ?  Yes, it happens to me about every year.  Usually when I go, there has been rain up stream and the river is too muddy to fish.  Let me know if the stripers are

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That is what is great about living next to a river.  You can check it out every day. Jeff

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And, I have also had times where I and perhaps one or two others were the only ones on the river and we/I caught fish on every cast for the entire tide ! If you go often enough it all works out. — "The true Angler is content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You are fishing an area and are hitting it regularly and waiting for the good fishing to start and it’s just a bit early and then the one time you don’t go you hear that everybody slammed them that day.  Tht is what happened to me this past weekend.  Ihave been fishing the Roanoke River constantly for a month or so fo the stripers to get going and getting a few but not really hot and heavy.  This past weekend I decided to stick aROUNd the house with the wife and of course I then heard that the fish were in thick and everybody caught a ton.  Figures. Gordon

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Happens to all of us!  Fortubnatly, there is always tomorrow John W. Kramer Clearwater Outfitters @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@   "See Dick fly-fish.    See Dick kill fish."           DON’T BE A DICK!  PRACTICE AND TEACH CATCH AND RELEASE @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@

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Question:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of

rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Ross, The dealer probably said "Teton". John Johnson Lilburn,GA

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You probably mean Teton!  I have seen that one reccomended here before.   A small Lamson or STH would also be good. -Burton On Mon, 13 Jan 1997, Ross Laurie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

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After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Hey Ross, This is just my 2 cents, but unless you are fishing for Salmon, Steelhead or any of the big saltwater species known for long runs, a reel is just a device to hold your line. Don’t waste your $$$ on an expensive reel to fish for trout. YMMV, Tom

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After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

 Hello Ross, I believe the reel he is speaking of is a Teton.  They make a nice reel.  Although, if you are looking for a real clean setup I would look no further than the new Ross Colorado.  The size you want is about $100 and the spools are about $50.  This reel only has a pawl to keep it from free spooling.  No Drag!  But really, is a drag that important on anything under a 6-7 weight rod.  I like the exposed rim. If you feel that you need a drag, maybe the cimmaron by ross would be a good bet.  It is lighter than the Teton. Enjoy Life, Paul Johnson,

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I would go with the Ross reels. Either the Cimarron ($170) or the Gunnison ($210). The gunnison has a great disc drag. Very good reels, beautiful finish and they are light. I would go with the extra $10. Otherwise, the Cimarron is great. No disc drag, otherwise, just as good and pretty. kmustad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

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After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

It getting to be a real bitc… when $200 is a mid priced reel.  The good news is IMHO, that it tough to beat the Cortland LTD’s, which you can have for around $100, and xtra spools for under $40.  Fine disc drags, easy to clean, graphite construction. made in UK (sorry George) USA made look to Tetons, and Lamsons.  There are undoubtedly others but these I own and use. jg

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It getting to be a real bitc… when $200 is a mid priced reel.  

Can you believe it? The good news is IMHO, that it tough to beat the Cortland LTD’s,

They are a good reel. I use the size 80 for my DT5F and WF6F lines and it works just fine. Not as smooth as others, but it’s always been reliable for me. Room for 100 yards of 20lb backing (give or take). Mine is 5(?) years old and has seen lots of streamside rocks and boat bottoms and is still kicking. I’ve never been particularly careful with that reel and it’s never given me a problem. I sort of like the fact that I can bang it around a bit and not fret and fuss. If I had one of the Abel reels with the "Coral" finish, I think I’d be afraid to bring it outside. look to Tetons, and Lamsons.

I would also look at the Orvis Battenkill. I know some on the group tend to quiver at the O-word, but I do very much like their reels. If I had the cash, you can bet I’d have a CFO on my trout sticks. My Battenkill 8/9 Disc has served me well over the past few years since I bought it. The SA System 2L reels are nice and more trout sized than their bigger cousins. I like their smooth drag system (at least the few I’ve fondled in the shops). Bob Petti Endwell, NY

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After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

I definitely don’t qualify as a sage (no pun inferred) but, I am ecstatic about an LL Bean Streamligh that I paid around $60.00 for.  It has a pawl drag without much oomph to it, but other than that, its extremely ligh weight and has a great feel to it.  On top of that, LL Bean has as good a return policy as you will ever find.  I am using a 4/5 on a 9 ft sage LL 4 wt.  Good Luck! Randy

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Question:

Anyone know the Nooksak area around Mt Baker?I would like to check it out this month.Hot spots,tips.flys? Any hints would be helpful as I really dont know the area that well.Thanks.

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Anyone know the Nooksak area around Mt Baker?I would like to check it out this month.Hot spots,tips.flys? Any hints would be helpful as I really dont know the area that well.Thanks.

The silvers are in…I talked to Michael Martin today at The Morning Hatch in Tacoma.  472-1072.  You might want to give him a call.   Steve Egge

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Question:

I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies. Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

Hi Steve Using a magnet is a good starting point in that (in my experience) even the highest-quality stainless steel exhibits some magnetic properties. I have three kinds of bead chain; chrome plated mild steel, shiny stainless steel and chrome plated brass.  A magnet should enable you to tell these three apart, in that brass won’t be even faintly magnetic. Hope that helps  Russ

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks)

I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel. Dave

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In general the stainless will not be "ferromagnetic" and will, therefore, not be attracted to a magnet, unlike the steel bead, which will.  Although this is not always the case I would take about any odds that it will work, as ferritic stainless is rare….make that very rare. dave

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: I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying : fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I : realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it : had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is : Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   : : Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? : (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) : : Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might : know the easy answer! : : TIA… : : Steve Austenitic stainless steel will not attract a magnet.   Martensitic stainless steel *will* attract a magnet. So, one has to be careful.  Now, what you do have going for you is that austenitic stainless steel is the most corrosion resistant and thus might be the best choice for saltwater use.  However, martensitic is the type that can be the strongest.  As far as the other type of stainless, ferritic, I am not sure, but I think that also might attract a magnet.  As I said, one has to be careful. Good luck. Kind regards, Steve Kernosky Michigan Tech Univ.

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Stainless steel is generally not attracted to a magnet nearly as strongly as regular steel because of the increased content of other metals, i.e. nickel and others.  If you have a small magnet, you might try this until a *real* metal expert replies.  longspeer

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel.

Russel and Dave- You are both right on.  Thanks for the tip… Steve

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The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. Dont hook yourself. hope it helps.

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snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

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: : The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell : between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the : item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste : of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. : : Might look a little silly. : :   : Dont hook yourself. : : That would look even worse. Just try explaining *that* to the wife. : : -DLB I guess I’ve come into this thread late, but has anyone mentioned that stainless steels (cept 17-4 HT or 18-8 HT) has very low to none magnetic capability. To determint it quickly I use a strong magnet. Mild steel is easy determined this way. Bob — Bob San Jose, Ca

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Hi, try using a good magnet. The stainless steel will roll to the magnet quicker. Good uh ? fishing.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

No, some types of stainless steel (typically the 400 series, I believe) are at least slightly ferromagnetic, so a magnet is not an accurate way to determine whether or not the metal is stainless steel. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any easy, reliable way to distinguish stainless steel.  Usually one can tell by appearance:  stainless steel has a relatively dull, gray sheen compared to plated materials (eg. chrome or cadmium over steel), but brighter than aluminum or pot metal alloys.  It helps to have a practiced eye – as well as some examples of true stainless steel.  Surface texture is also a good clue:  with stainless, the machine tool marks may still be evident, whereas plating will typically smooth or fill these in.   -Wes Wes Neuenschwander Seattle, WA

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Question:

My cocern with Pike would be ythe necessity to use some sort of wire leader to defeat the teeth.   While I’ve never caught one one a fly rod I have caught them on lures and a steel leader is necessary. But what a fight it would be!

        Appropos to the pike and steel leader, last summer I was fishing off a dock in the Rideau River near here. I usually fish trout in lakes and was using a 3# tippet with a small nondescript green wet fly, about #12. I was trying for bass, I think a #7 rod and line. Anyway, I had a hard strike and very soon realized that it was no bass but a small muskie, about 36". Well, I had no expectations whatsoever of landing the fish but fought on valiantly anyway until the fish decided to go under the dock. My attempt to pass the rod under failed and I lost the fish when the line caught in the dock and the tippet-fly knot failed.         What I gathered from all of this is that the fish was hooked in the corner of the mouth and as a consequence, the teeth did not have an opportunity to touch the tippet. I have not been back to the spot again to attempt to test the theory but hope to this summer.         Earlier last year, in attempting to entice a pike in the Ottawa River, I had tied up some gaudy attractor flies on #6 X4 long shanks with a relatively fine coated braided steel snell. Even with the heaviest leaders, these were at the upper level of weight for casting and it was this experience that led me to try the Rideau without a steel tippet. —

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My cocern with Pike would be ythe necessity to use some sort of wire leader to defeat the teeth.  

I’ve caught a lot of them on flies and yes a wire leader is a necessity if you actually intend to land them. Not to say you can’t catch them without the wire, but they tend to snip off even heavy mono tippets. Keep it short, 6" or so and you should be fine. Now if you _REALLY_ want to try something scary, try them out of a float tube!!! The bigger ones are _quite_ interesting to handle in your lap! *** Lance

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Hi All. Pike on a fly rod are *GREAT*!  Here are my suggestions. 1) 7 wt or heavier.  Make sure that you have backing on the reel, and that the drag is smooth.  Trust me on this one.  Most of the time you won’t need it, but every now and then, watch out. 2) You should (must?) use some kind of a shock tippet.  Either wire or 25-50 lb mono.  I used to use about 6" tied to the end of a 0x leader. 3) Generally, use large streamers.  Sometimes the gaudy ones work, sometimes the more realistic ones.  Big muddlers are great.  Mickey Finns are also good.  Size depends somewhat on where you are fishing, but a 15" pike will be able to eat just about anything you throw at it, so size 2 or bigger is not out of the question.  Pike get much bigger than this of course. 4) Fish the streamer in sharp fast jerks along the edges of weedbeds. The strike is usually brutal, but somethimes the pike will just follow the fly right up to the point at which you make the next cast, then nail it just as you start your backcast.  This almost always loses a fly.  Oh well, it’s worth it. Have fun.  By the way, watch out for the teeth – the bites are painful. Regards, John — Dr. John G. Hardie Indiana University Cyclotron Facility

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Pike can be very interesting. Several years ago I was prowling the banks of the North Saskatchewan River (inside the city of Edmonton) and I saw a group of anglers all kind of excited. It was near noon on a bright day in June and some of the group were wearing polarized glasses. They had spotted a fair-sized Pike just hanging in the slack water just past the drop off. They had tried to get a reaction from a whole bunch of spoons, jigs and bait. The old slough-shark just hung there like in mid-air and just ignored everything.  I had a #7 fly-rod and a rather ugly- looking muddler which I had attempted to tie. I was not using any special leader or anything. I catch a lot of pike on jigs with no leader and don’t lose that many because they seem to take it on the lip. Anyway it was no big deal to cast to the pike because he was just six or eight feet from the bank. Maybe the bright light made it hard for him to see because he just basked and didn’t move. I let the muddler drift by him a couple of times and he just ignored it. I them let it drift near his nose and gave it a couple of short, sharp jerks. He nailed it. It was quite a fight. River pike just seem to have a lot more in them than the ones in our prairie lakes. He was about four pounds and a lot of fun to play. He had swallowed the fly and the leader went to the side of his mouth and missed the teeth. I would have let him go but the fly had caused some major bleeding. I gave him to one of the chinese fellows who spotted him in the first place. It is kind of neat to think that fly fishing can be the best way to take a pike. (ps If this message isn’t too clear, please forgive as it is my first posting to a newsgroup)

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You also might try some saltwater streamers, particularly Lefty’s Deceivers. And for a good idea of how to construct a steel tippet, check out a saltwater flyfishing book to see what’s used for bluefish, which have teeth even nastier than a Great Northern’s.

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Pike with a fly?

The largest "trout" I ever caught turned out to be an 11 pound Northern. I was fishing the Wolf river in Wisconsin (nymphs) and thought I had hooked a world record Brown. Great fight. Labbe

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I’ve heard that Duramax kevlar braided stuff probably won’t cut on a pike’s teeth, although it makes a crappy leader because it’s so limp. How about 2 feet of it as tippet, anyone ever used it for pike? In a few lakes out here, pike and pelicans are really doing a number on the trout populations, I’ve heard of people throwing the pike to the pelicans (when they’re of legal size, we have slot limits on pike most lakes) to feed the pelicans and reduce the number of predator fish. First time I saw a pelican in the rocky mountains, I sure did a double take… — Cray Computer Corporation    http://www.craycos.com/~ferguson/ferguson.html Colorado Springs, CO                                     Solely my opinions

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Fear not about "clarity", first poster. Your story was nice, concise, and fun! Thanks. — David A. Calderisi

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