Question:

I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day.

go to www.ifish.net and read the latest reports. There are a number of guides listed there and all have good reputations. I can personally speak to the fact that Dave Johnson is one of the finest people, as well as being a guide, that you will ever have the pleasure of fishing with. Cos

Response:

Give Kaufmann’s a try… www.kman.com Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I’d go to the lower  Deschutes or The Klickitat.  I knew people who were catching fish in the Lewis river last week but access to it is not easy. The Wilson is a short drive but "fair" at the moment.  It could change any time with rain.   There’s supposed to be fish (samon and steelhead )in Eagle Creek just east of Portland, bring your own rock to stand on.  When you get to town call Kauffmans, Rivercity flyshop or Fishermans Marine Supply.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I took a river class from Mark Bachman and it was a great experience.  He has to be one of the most patient guides to teach spey casting.  Good thing I was not chewing gum at the same time.  I recommend any guide affiliated with the Welches shop.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I also had a great trip from the shop with Brian Silvey in July.  Caught one steelhead and many trout.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I took a river class from Mark Bachman and it was a great experience.  He has to be one of the most patient guides to teach spey casting.  Good thing I was not chewing gum at the same time.  I recommend any guide affiliated with the Welches shop. If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

Question:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

Our most popular tippet sizes are 3x through 6x. In leaders we sell lots of 7 1/2′, 4x and 5x and 9′, 4x, 5x and 6x.  This is what the fly fishers buy in Nor Cal. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

Standard rules: — divide hook size by 4 to get tippet thickness in Xs:  thus    #12 fits 3x, #16 fits 4x etc.  Most people nowadays fish    one grade finer. — Leader butt should be 2/3 thickness of line end, and not    too much stiffer. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

Response:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

class, boy. — George Gehrke All Writings

Question:

I am looking to buy a used kick boat for fly fishing still waters mostly. It needs to be big enough to support aroud 300 lbs. Please email me directly if you have something you would consider selling. Michael Anderson THANKS!

Response:

Are you a large fat person?

Response:

Question:

Kits are usually very bad.  Just buy a vise and some thread and material. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

I thought the ‘el cheapo I got from Cabella’s was fine…   However, your local shop may have one just as good, with some advice on where to enter some classes. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought the ‘el cheapo I got from Cabella’s was fine…   However, your local shop may have one just as good, with some advice on where to enter some classes. I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Hi Curt, before you buy have a look at www.flyanglersonline.com Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

Kits are usually very bad.  Just buy a vise and some thread and

material. World without end, Amen.  When I was in FF retail, I steered everybody away from the kits, explaining they could get a decent start on materials,etc. and actually get stuff they will use by buying compnents selectively and individually for about the same amount of $..   I still have some claret saddles from my first kit, purchased from GL Herter in 1963.  If you want memories and materials you will never use, get a kit. Otherwise, just buy as much stuff as you can afford and build from there.

Response:

Curt, DO NOT BUY ANY KIT! Do yourself a favor and go to a reputable flyfishing shop (not a general fishing store) and get the name of a fly tyer in your area that you can contact. Get in touch with that person and see if he or she will give you 10 minutes of his/her time. If yes, describe your situation and ask for advise. Most tyers I know are happy to help a beginner get started in tying with advise that will point you in the right direction. Good luck and if you want, you can e-mail me. Allan

Response:

Don’t buy a kit, Here is my basic selection for a beginner tying trout flies.  Add items as you learn more about tying and know what you want..   1 Thompson A Vise 1 pair of scissors 1 Bobbin 1 Hackle pliers 1 Hair stacker 1 Box Mustad Hooks 94840 size 12 (dry) 1 Box Mustad Hooks 3906 size 12 (wet) 1 Spool thread (black) 1 Spool thread (brown) 1 Spool thread (red) 1 Spool floss (yellow) 1 Spool floss (red) 1 Spool gold tinsel 1 Spool silver tinsel 1 Neck (grizzly) 1 Neck (brown) 1 bunch peacock herl 1 patch deer hair 1 rabbit face 1 card Chennile (black) 1 card Chennile (brown) 1 card Chennile (red) — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

i totally agree with allan…….tying kits are a waste,

SNIP Depends where you get the kit.  Buy one from a small, conscientious, family business and you will be well served.  May I recommend www.wwdoak.com Keep your stick on the ice, Thos.

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Curt, When I started tying I bought a Thompson Pro vice for $32.00 and only the tools and materials I needed to tie one type of fly. This way you don’t waste money on a kit which may contain cheap materials or materials that you’ll never use. I buy materials from a fly shop where you can examine the materials and get help. I have purchsed materials from Cabela’s and have been disappointed. Ron

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hobby ? now that’s an interesting way to think of this "tying" thing. I have one complete room and most of a two car garage involved in this "hobby." I have more tyed up in hooks than my first car cost. In feathers, well lets say one year of tuition  at Cal Berkeley would be an equal and fair trade. I know, I have tried too trade   Harry < snip By the way, dyeing things is a neat hobby also…..

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings.

  Been there , done that  :-)   Harry (everyone there wanted flies)

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings.  Been there , done that  :-)  Harry (everyone there wanted flies)

Harry,  you went to the wrong lodge ! Where I was they all wanted pattern recipes for using up the most outlandish materials you ever heard of ! Like how to tie up ten thousand hoppers using the hair from the nether parts of white rhinoceroseesseess

Question:

Howdy FFers, I was planning on a 3 day float trip with an outfitter in Oregon in September with some friends.  Has anyone been on one of these trips in September?  Which river could give the best experience for some "inexperienced"  Flyfishers…

snip John I would opt for floating the Deschutes from Mack’s Canyon to the mouth.  Should be excellent steelhead fishing at that time of the year.  I highly reccommend the crew at the Fly Fishing Shop at Welches, Or.  Excellent guides and great company.  They only run three guides and two of them are the owners.   Try www.teleport.com/~flyfish/ for a description of their trips or call them at 503-622-4607.  I think they also have a 1-800 number.  800-266-3971 but have never used it so can’t swear it’s still a valid number.   No finicial relationship just a satisfied customer. Jim Jones For e-mail reply replace spam with sns Jim Jones For e-mail reply replace spam with sns

Response:

Howdy FFers, I was planning on a 3 day float trip with an outfitter in Oregon in September with some friends.  Has anyone been on one of these trips in September?  Which river could give the best experience for some "inexperienced"  Flyfishers… Best wilderness?  Best outfit?  We could do trout, steelhead, or smallmouth for fun.   Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help, -John —        My Policy is to ALWAYS Blame the Computer

Response:

Question:

Sorry, I forgot to mention the price and ordering number for the outfit below, it is $39.97 and order # D8C-26617.  They also have a couple of fly fishing vests, a 9 pocket mesh for $24.97 and a 17 pocket classic for 29.97. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just saw this in the Sportsman’s Guide catalog for you guys that are looking for a cheap outfit to learn to fly fish or teach you son flyfishing.  The toll free ordering number is 1-800-888-3006.. 6/7 weight 8 foot Martin 8067C fiberglass fly rod Martin 6355 reel WF6F Line 100 yards of backing 7 1/2 foot tapered leader 4 pound test tippet — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS

Response:

I just saw this in the Sportsman’s Guide catalog for you guys that are looking for a cheap outfit to learn to fly fish or teach you son flyfishing.  The toll free ordering number is 1-800-888-3006.. 6/7 weight 8 foot Martin 8067C fiberglass fly rod Martin 6355 reel WF6F Line 100 yards of backing 7 1/2 foot tapered leader 4 pound test tippet — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS

Response:

Question:

: for the amount used the sg doesn’t count. Isn’t it more fun fishing than : being scientific? Keep em dry, Ummm…. not always.  But then I’m a geek. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

Question for Mr "Gink":  Is there any reason (physical, not political) that I shouldn’t use Gink as a fly-line dressing?  Will it corode the line? — -Wayne Trzyna

Response:

Gink keeps it up! I’ll have to remember that next time I pay a visit to Cottonwood ranch.

Aha!  We’ve discovered the secret ingrediant:  KY Jelly. — -Wayne Trzyna

Response:

: : GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water. : : FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water : averages 1.025. Now the question everyone is, What’s the specific : gravity of Albolene? : — : Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler : TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 : 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA Gary, Hi,    I don’t think it matters. It works well. A drawback, if any, may be the low liquification temperature. I noticed yesterday that at body temperature, 98.6 deg F, it was a thin film not solid as it comes from the container. I guess the other floatants (like Al Beatty has) have higher melting/liquification temperatures.    One thing for sure is that water doesn’t like it, which is the property that makes flies float. Keep em dry, Bob — lukn4fish Bob Madden San Jose, Ca

Response:

GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water. FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. But the question everyone wants answered is, What’s the chemical difference between Gink and albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

As different as a model A Ford is to a Jet Fighter.  If I wanted to be spilling out my guts regarding what my life’s work is all about I’d done it years ago but the secret formulations of GINK is patented and has nothing to do with whatever else you believe works.  What GINK is:  Its a dry fly dressing invented by a fly fishermen for fly fishermen. Remember, all other dry fly dressings and/or sinks are PLAGARIZED products from other industrial sources which are then forced onto the fishing establishment as working enities.  ALL MY PRODUCTS are original inventions Mr. Soucie.  If you want to use silicone, soaps, bear or goose grease dissolved with carbontetroclorhide and ruin your heart, or if you want to use perfumed cosmetics which you’re proposing and call it romancing the fly . . . be our guest. The differences are very great.  Gink is gink and it is MUCH, much better than old, obsolete albolene.  Albo absorbs tremendous amouts of water, its viscosity is wrong and its used to remove makeup from actor’s faces (primarily)  What albo is not, it is not a dry fly dressing.  At least not anywhere as great as GEHRKE’S GINK is.  And frankly Mr Soucie, nothing else in the world is either. Gink keeps it up. George Gehrke/Mr. Gink

Response:

I plopped my trusty hydrometer into my tub of Albolene and it just layed there. Any chemists out there that can tell me what I’m doing wrong? John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

Response:

I soak my dries in a "permanent" treatment right after I tie them.  Stuff is called Fly Dry or something like that; probably Scotchgard.  Works pretty well.  If they start to sink, a few false casts solve the problem.  If they get slimed, dry floatant gets ‘em up again.  Not as permanent as the manufacturer suggests, but still a lot easier than dealing with floatant paste on a cold morning.   Haven’t used Gink.  Probably a fine product, but I’m wary of liquid floatants, given their tendency to leak in the vest pocket. Charlie Quinton

Response:

Gink keeps it up! Aha!  We’ve discovered the secret ingrediant:  KY Jelly. — -Wayne Trzyna

No, no, Wayne.  You’re mistaken.  K-Y jelly gets it IN!  Keeping it in and UP is another question.  Not sure about Gink in that regard, but I’ve found that a couple of belts of sour mash pretty makes it hard (difficult?) to get down. Stan

Response:

: :   I read this to say that Gink is roughly 3/4’s  the "density" of : water. Which make it lighter than water, therefore it floats. (FYI) : :         Yes, if Gink has a specific gravity of 0.78 it ought to float flies : very well. It seems strange, though, that Mr. Gink doesn’t know how his : conconcoction’s specific gravity compares to that of water. :         I don’t even know what Albolene is, but the name keeps popping up on : the thread. A simple, "Gink is not Albolene, Albolene is not Gink," This is good stuff. What if these products _are_ heaver than water, but their properties are such that they easily coat the hackel and hair fibers such the total weight is only increased a miniscual amount. The fact that good H2O doesnt like this material causes them to float really well (and for some time). Some guides I’ve talked to use Albolene and they say it works well. Heck, for the amount used the sg doesn’t count. Isn’t it more fun fishing than being scientific? Keep em dry, Bob — lukn4fish Bob Madden San Jose, Ca

Response:

GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water. FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. Now the question everyone is, What’s the specific gravity of Albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

  I read this to say that Gink is roughly 3/4’s  the "density" of water. Which make it lighter than water, therefore it floats. (FYI)   Harry

Response:

  I read this to say that Gink is roughly 3/4’s  the "density" of water. Which make it lighter than water, therefore it floats. (FYI)

        Yes, if Gink has a specific gravity of 0.78 it ought to float flies very well. It seems strange, though, that Mr. Gink doesn’t know how his conconcoction’s specific gravity compares to that of water.         I don’t even know what Albolene is, but the name keeps popping up on the thread. A simple, "Gink is not Albolene, Albolene is not Gink," would have sufficed, but instead Mr. Gink went into one of his patented rages. He’s certainly a poor spokesman for his product. — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

Response:

   Yes, if Gink has a specific gravity of 0.78 it ought to float flies very well. It seems strange, though, that Mr. Gink doesn’t know how his conconcoction’s specific gravity compares to that of water.

I think he said Gink has a specific gravity of .78 _compared_ to water (which is 1.00 as you point out). The english language is often imprecise. FWIW. Charlie…

Response:

: : : : Gink keeps it up. : : George Gehrke/Mr. Gink Ok Dr George, but don’t flash it. Just let it float. Keep em dry, Bob (tryin to beat T-Bone to the floatant) — lukn4fish Bob Madden San Jose, Ca

Response:

snip BTW, I raised Tim’s issue over a year ago without a nibble. How come we don’t worry about all the floatant in the water?

Rick, At this point I think we’d be doing more worrying than fishing. Ross Wilson

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water. FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. But the question everyone wants answered is, What’s the chemical difference between Gink and albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA As different as a model A Ford is to a Jet Fighter.  If I wanted to be spilling out my guts regarding what my life’s work is all about I’d done it years ago but the secret formulations of GINK is patented and has nothing to do with whatever else you believe works.  What GINK is:  Its a dry fly dressing invented by a fly fishermen for fly fishermen. Remember, all other dry fly dressings and/or sinks are PLAGARIZED products from other industrial sources which are then forced onto the fishing establishment as working enities.  ALL MY PRODUCTS are original inventions Mr. Soucie.  If you want to use silicone, soaps, bear or goose grease dissolved with carbontetroclorhide and ruin your heart, or if you want to use perfumed cosmetics which you’re proposing and call it romancing the fly . . . be our guest. The differences are very great.  Gink is gink and it is MUCH, much better than old, obsolete albolene.  Albo absorbs tremendous amouts of water, its viscosity is wrong and its used to remove makeup from actor’s faces (primarily)  What albo is not, it is not a dry fly dressing.  At least not anywhere as great as GEHRKE’S GINK is.  And frankly Mr Soucie, nothing else in the world is either. Gink keeps it up. George Gehrke/Mr. Gink

That’s atellin’ ‘em George. Les

Response:

GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water.

FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. Now the question everyone is, What’s the specific gravity of albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

Response:

GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water.

FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. Now the question everyone is, What’s the specific gravity of Albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

Response:

GINK…has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water.

FYI, pure fresh water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and sea water averages 1.025. But the question everyone wants answered is, What’s the chemical difference between Gink and albolene? — Gary A. Soucie – writer, editor, angler TEL 1-301-322-8373;  FAX 1-301-322-4329 3007 Crest Ave., Cheverly, MD 20785 USA

Response:

world’s first COMMERCIAL dry fly dressing to float a fly for more than one float.  In fact, it does it better even today than any other dressing in the world and will usually float a dry fly until the owner changes it or loses it . . . more often than not. The main point is, it works!  It works better than any other competitor’s efforts i the entire world.

Does anyone have the article someone posted awhile back which compared several different brands of floatants?   And that . . . in itself, is another story I might tell one day.  How it all came about.

I, for one, would be interested in hearing it.  For one thing, I’d like to know why it’s called "Gink". Gink keeps it up!

I’ll have to remember that next time I pay a visit to Cottonwood ranch. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems – Ithaca, NY

Response:

It’s probably the same stuff as any other fly floatant.  I’m sure I’ll be corrected if I’m wrong, but I believe the reason floatant works is becasue it keeps the water off the fly… and anything that does that will gum up a gill, too.  BTW, I raised Tim’s issue over a year ago without a nibble. How come we don’t worry about all the floatant in the water?

Maybe environmental authorities would if they actually had people that fished. Coast Guard regulations require the reporting of a "visible sheen" on the water.  Some states’ environmental release reporting statutes and regulations prohibit, or require reporting of, any release, no matter what the quantity, of a listed hazardous substance to the environment.  Remember that post about not seeing game wardens?  Wait until the Coast Guard hands you a citation for the sheen coming from that floating fly on the end of your line and the state wants $10,000 a day for the failure to report the same "release".  Hope this doesn’t start Timbo on a new catch and "release" post fest! Musconet

Response:

: the fly for long on the stream.  I’ve tried adding a little : silicon high-vacuum grease.  This stuff is less soluble, but much : tackier.  I find this a good way of floatin flies such as Letort : hoppers which are hard to gink properly by hand.  Overall rating: : 7 out of 10. : Isn’t this stuff, like, toxic to fish ? It’s probably the same stuff as any other fly floatant.  I’m sure I’ll be corrected if I’m wrong, but I believe the reason floatant works is becasue it keeps the water off the fly… and anything that does that will gum up a gill, too.  BTW, I raised Tim’s issue over a year ago without a nibble. How come we don’t worry about all the floatant in the water? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : the fly for long on the stream.  I’ve tried adding a little : silicon high-vacuum grease.  This stuff is less soluble, but much : tackier.  I find this a good way of floatin flies such as Letort : hoppers which are hard to gink properly by hand.  Overall rating: : 7 out of 10. : Isn’t this stuff, like, toxic to fish ? It’s probably the same stuff as any other fly floatant.  I’m sure I’ll be corrected if I’m wrong, but I believe the reason floatant works is becasue it keeps the water off the fly… and anything that does that will gum up a gill, too.  BTW, I raised Tim’s issue over a year ago without a nibble. How come we don’t worry about all the floatant in the water? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

SILICONE based dressings (plagarized products from another industrial source) absorb 10% of their weight in water.  (Also they are very dirt gathering prone).  This is why you do not want to use silicone based dry fly dressings. Hope this helps answer your problems about silicone dressings. Lastly, hollow deer haired flies such as hoppers, etc. a trimmed with sissors and the hollowed hair will suck in water if you do not dress the head liberally with Gink.  Why GINK is better in this area is because it has a specific gravity of .78 the density of water.  Which means, it floats all by itself.  Rick Fletcher is absolutely correct in that GINK keeps water from the tying material, making them basically impervious to the entry of water while adding a high degree of floatability.  This is only one reason why GINK is the World’s Number One Dry Fly dressing. That aside, from ginking flies to tying them, Gehrke’s Gink is the world’s first COMMERCIAL dry fly dressing to float a fly for more than one float.  In fact, it does it better even today than any other dressing in the world and will usually float a dry fly until the owner changes it or loses it . . . more often than not. The main point is, it works!  It works better than any other competitor’s efforts i the entire world. And that . . . in itself, is another story I might tell one day.  How it all came about. Gink keeps it up! George/Mr. Gink I would never break the romance of two lovers.  The fly that is dressed well who are in need of keeping a date with a fish. No more. No less. gg/;)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Dear All: : I have access to some silicon oil.  Do you think I should try this on my : flies?  It is reagent grade stuff.  I’m not sure what I should cut it : with, as it is far too concentrated to use on an individual fly.  It : should work though.  Gink is essentially the same stuff but in a low : melting base. : JB I’ve tried using silicon oil on my flies.  I cut the oil about 1:10 with hexanes and dipped the flies in.  Unfortunately, I’ve found that the finished products is too thin and doesn’t protect the fly for long on the stream.  I’ve tried adding a little silicon high-vacuum grease.  This stuff is less soluble, but much tackier.  I find this a good way of floatin flies such as Letort hoppers which are hard to gink properly by hand.  Overall rating: 7 out of 10.

Isn’t this stuff, like, toxic to fish ? TimW

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Dear All: I have access to some silicon oil.  Do you think I should try this on my flies?  It is reagent grade stuff.  I’m not sure what I should cut it with, as it is far too concentrated to use on an individual fly.  It should work though.  Gink is essentially the same stuff but in a low melting base. JB

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: Dear All: : I have access to some silicon oil.  Do you think I should try this on my : flies?  It is reagent grade stuff.  I’m not sure what I should cut it : with, as it is far too concentrated to use on an individual fly.  It : should work though.  Gink is essentially the same stuff but in a low : melting base. : JB I’ve tried using silicon oil on my flies.  I cut the oil about 1:10 with hexanes and dipped the flies in.  Unfortunately, I’ve found that the finished products is too thin and doesn’t protect the fly for long on the stream.  I’ve tried adding a little silicon high-vacuum grease.  This stuff is less soluble, but much tackier.  I find this a good way of floatin flies such as Letort hoppers which are hard to gink properly by hand.  Overall rating: 7 out of 10. Pete

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Question:

How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities.

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The #3 Hoffmans are excellent in these sizes.  And you won’t believe the length of the stems.

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How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities.

Don’t know about the Hoffmans, but the Metz #1 are loaded!  I had lots of 22’s over 1 inch long.   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities. Don’t know about the Hoffmans, but the Metz #1 are loaded!  I had lots of 22’s over 1 inch long.  A sunny day,     a box of midges,        and a wandering stream…  Man, this MUST be heaven!  <    Steve Kulpa    <<

From what I have heard and seen, the Hoffman #3 grade is equivalent to a Metz #1.  I know this is true on saddles from personal experience.   It just makes me wonder how good a Hoffman #1 neck would be!!! Tom Cavitt

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I own several metz and several Hoffman necks.  I can’t believe how much better the Hoffmans are than the Metz necks.  A number 3 Hoffman is a superior neck to a number 1 metz any day and far cheaper.

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I own several metz and several Hoffman necks.  I can’t believe how much better the Hoffmans are than the Metz necks.  A number 3 Hoffman is a superior neck to a number 1 metz any day and far cheaper.

I’ve read this and I couldn’t resist the impression that you have been blended by the number of feathers and their relativly low price. I’ve been a user of both Metz and Hoffman for some years now, and I DO see the difference between these two neck-types. Hoffman hackel is much more stiffer than Metz, they are very often U-formed – which makes parachute fly tying quite difficult. So .. to the point. In my opinion both brands are good as all purpose hackle. But Metz (in my humble opinion) gives you flexibility of use – no matter classification.

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been blended by the number of feathers and their relativly low price. I’ve been a user of both Metz and Hoffman for some years now, and I DO see the difference between these two neck-types. Hoffman hackel is much more stiffer than Metz, they are very often U-formed – which makes parachute fly tying quite difficult. So .. to the point. In my opinion both brands are good as all purpose hackle. But Metz (in my humble opinion) gives you flexibility of use – no matter classification. Well, the feathers are really flying now.  The idea that a Metz neck is better than a Hoffman for parachute tying could only be described as bird-brained.  Hoffman hackles are long and the stems are flexible, both essential characteristics for parachute patterns.  In my humble opinion they result in far neater flies than the Metz, and my parachute flies have certainly improved since I’ve switched over.  In fact, I have a #1 metz rooster neck in a medium dun that I will gladly sell for $30.00 (I’ve plucked less than two-dozen feathers between #14-18 on the neck)  so I can put the money toward a #3 Hoffman.  Any of you Metz fans can reach me at my E-mail address and make an offer.

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says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -We sigh over the good old days, but… I still have many of the old Indian and Phillipine rooster necks that I bought during the sixties when I was learning to tie.  These were "first quality"  necks that sold for $4-$10 each depending mostly on color. Necks that aren’t worthy to share the same chicken ranch, let alone coop, with a #3 Metz or Hoffman.  Of course the color selection was quite limited–a dun neck was an extreme rarity, especially one in dry-fly quality.  $10 for a mediocre domestic grizzly neck in 1969 (if you could find one at all) is probably about the same as $60-$70 for a superb #1 grizzly today… …you can have the good old days. Thanks Mr. Hoffman, Mr. Metz, and all the others who are producing the best hackle ever Sean Barry

I solved most of my expensive hackle problems.  I tie and use almost exclusively the Comparadun style.  Easy to tie, floats  like a cork and seem to take trout as well as any Mayfly tied in the tradtional manner. Les

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:                       Man, what a difference! : Now to get a brown one … I just bought my first #1 Hoffman a few weeks ago: a beautiful fiery brown!  As you say, it’s a great treat to work with the best.  I’ll never buy anything less (well, hardly ever). — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster

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We sigh over the good old days, but… I still have many of the old Indian and Phillipine rooster necks that I bought during the sixties when I was learning to tie.  These were "first quality"  necks that sold for $4-$10 each depending mostly on color. Necks that aren’t worthy to share the same chicken ranch, let alone coop, with a #3 Metz or Hoffman.  Of course the color selection was quite limited–a dun neck was an extreme rarity, especially one in dry-fly quality.  $10 for a mediocre domestic grizzly neck in 1969 (if you could find one at all) is probably about the same as $60-$70 for a superb #1 grizzly today… …you can have the good old days. Thanks Mr. Hoffman, Mr. Metz, and all the others who are producing the best hackle ever Sean Barry

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I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up.                      Man, what a difference!

[snip] Steve: If somehow a #1 Herbert ever makes it out your way, take a good look at one of those critters. My second choice (and close behind the Hebert) would be Hoffman. Check out the flatness and suppleness of the stems, and check the barb count/stiffness on these two producers’ chickens, and compare them against the Metz. I won’t say that it’ll put a #1 Metz to shame (that would be cruel ;^) but suffice to say that I haven’t bought a Metz in many years once the Hebert’s and Hoffman’s became available out my way… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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Jim,         In flyfishing, when we tie our own flies, we use the feathers from roosters for the hackle.  There are a number of fine folks who expend great quantities of money and effort to raise above average plummage for our addiction.  Once raised, they are graded and sold on the basis of their appropriateness to tying.  A number one (#1) neck indicates a slab of skin from the shoulder, neck, and head area of a rooster, bearing a high count of feathers having sufficient length, stiffness of barbules (those little things sticking out from the quill), and smallness of barbules to qualify for a top rating.  It is normally considered appropriate for use in tying a large number of very small dry flies.  A number two (#2) neck may have fewer smaller feathers or fewer barbules, or a problems with color.  It is still useful, just not best.  A number three (#3) is probably getting pretty webby and may only tie wet flies– lacking the stiffness to float a fly on its barbules.  The "neck" designation is to distinguish from a "saddle"– the back part of a bird (where you’d put a saddle if you wanted to ride it).  Saddles are generally considered appropriate for larger flies and often display the stiffness and barbule count of quality necks.  Hoffman and Metz both have demonstrated that saddles can be produced that are suitable for smaller flies.  Saddle feathers are generally much longer than neck feathers and somewhat less expensive. Hope that helps. Charley

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I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up.                       Man, what a difference! The top of the neck is LOADED with #20’s!  I picked out thirty or so and still have lots left, and most are 1 – 1.5 inches long.  I can’t even guess at the number of 22s.  I think I lucked out and got an exceptional #1.  I’m now convinced that #1’s are the way to go, providing you have a chance to look them over.  Now and then an exceptional one will come along. Now to get a brown one … Steve P.S.  Mr. Lum, I thought you’d like hearing this story!   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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Steve,         What’s a Metz #1 neck? I don’t speak ff so good yet.                                                         Jim

: I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! : I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it : just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I : just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead : and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I : still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for : later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck : was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up. :                       Man, what a difference! : The top of the neck is LOADED with #20’s!  I picked out thirty or so : and still have lots left, and most are 1 – 1.5 inches long.  I can’t : even guess at the number of 22s.  I think I lucked out and got an : exceptional #1.  I’m now convinced that #1’s are the way to go, : providing you have a chance to look them over.  Now and then an : exceptional one will come along. : Now to get a brown one … : Steve : P.S.  Mr. Lum, I thought you’d like hearing this story! :   :   A sunny day, :      a box of midges, :         and a wandering stream… :   Man, this MUST be heaven! :   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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Question:

Please tell me that they will come out with a version for Mac! I would love to have this program but I have a Mac and I don’t have access to a PC.

I asked the company who makes the Fly Ty software if they were going to come out with a Mac version. They said they were going to see how the PC version did and then decide, but they doubted it would be worth it because the % of Macs compared with PCs is small. I told them I thought they should do it anyway. Steve Rosenblum

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* In a message originally to All, StevieRose said: Hello Steve could you tell me if more about this CD-Rom of flypatterns? Is it Dos/Windows etc. Tight Lines Dale Kent … Unknown Error on Unknown Device for Unexplainable Reason. |Fidonet:  Dale Kent 1:351/400

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Dale, try HyperComplete angler for Mac (hypercard stack) at 800-HCA-7698 or FAX 1-617-983-92600.

: Hello Steve could you tell me if more about this CD-Rom of flypatterns? : Is it Dos/Windows etc. : Tight Lines : Dale Kent —                 "remember, keep looking for the next universe"

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Software is called "Fly Ty" made by Amiable Instruction in Lehi Utah. (801)768-1280. Windows based. Available on CD Rom or Floppies. I haven’t seen it run. Supposed to have 28 step by step tying instructions, 500 beautiful photos, over 100 patterns, On line help, etc. Hope this helps. Steve Rosenblum.

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Buy a book.  Jack Dennis comes to mind.  The Hyper Compleat Angler version I saw the other day did not have step by step directions.  It assumes a basic understanding of how to tie flies.  Dollar for dollar, books are still your best value.  My pattern books got character.  They got rings from where I set down beers, I got small pieces of feathers and crap lodged down inside the pages.  Books are a lot faster to boot up, too.  I don’t think electronic fly tying has reached the state of the art, yet.

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Does anyone know if there is a CD-Rom of fly patterns, or if there are any plans for such a publication?  I think it would be a great idea.

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Someone was demo-ing a version for IBM at the last Fly Tackle Dealer Show in Denver.  I will dig around and see if I can find some more information.  I think it’s called FlyTie Software or something similar. *                                                     *

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Does anyone know if there is a CD-Rom of fly patterns, or if there are any plans for such a publication?  I think it would be a great idea.

The search is over.  There indeed is a Fly Tying program for the PC. Its name is FlyTy for Windows. It is a computer based instruction program intended to teach individuals how to tie professional looking flies.  The subject matter expert is Mickey Anderson. Over 28 step by step lessons (20 flies and 8 basic) Over 100 recipes (40 dry, 18 nymphs, 24 streamers, 24 wet) Aquatic images Materials and Tools Parts and Proportions Examples (correct and incorrect examples of tying) Help Retail $49.95 + S&H Contact your local fly fishing shop or contact Amiable Instruction.         Amiable Instruction         PO BOX 281         Lehi, UT.  84043         (801) 768-1280         fax: (801) 768-1281 PS – much more to come.

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Question:

To All: I have an oppoutunity to go fly fishinh in Venezuela this coming spring. Would appreciate any information. I can’t seem to find anyone who has ever been there fishing.

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Mason) writes: I have an oppoutunity to go fly fishinh in Venezuela this coming spring. Would appreciate any information. I can’t seem to find anyone who has ever been there fishing.

Where are you going in Venezuela?  There’s everything from big-game saltwater to the Amazon basin to trout, but you must have some sort of destination in mind. If you’ll post your intentions I’ll try to give you some specific answers.  I’ve fished all over Venezuela (even met my wife in the jungle there). Marshall Cutchin

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