Question:

Does anyone have any experience fishing for these fish in Florida, with flys? I see lots of guides, etc., but they seem to be traditional tackle guys. Fred

Response:

with flys? I see lots of guides, etc., but they seem to be traditional tackle guys.

You might try looking up Steve Kantner "aka The Land Capitan." He writes an article occasionaly for The Fly Tyer Magazine. I have not fished with him yet, but would like to and hope to do so sometime this spring. He is a Florida guide that specializes in walk-in fishing for snook, tarpon, and peacock bass. He last had an article on some of his flies in the Summer 2002 issue of the Fly Tyer. Big Dale

Response:

Question:

I just got an old willow creel from a friend. The willow look pretty dry and there is no varnish to protect it. Since i want to use it when i’m fly fishing should i put something on it , if so what should i use; Varnish, linseed oil…….or is there any special product i should know of? Thanks for your help! Before you buy.

Response:

I just got an old willow creel from a friend. The willow look pretty dry and there is no varnish to protect it. Since i want to use it when i’m fly fishing should i put something on it , if so what should i use; Varnish, linseed oil…….or is there any special product i should know of?

Yo Robert.   I’m heading down to the fly shop today.   You get the latest FFA yet? Joe F.

Response:

Willow creels require no maintenance apart from a wash now and again. Line the creel with damp grass before placing fish in it. You may also soak the creel in the stream before placing fish in it.  The evaporation which then ensues helps keep the fish cool.  The grass also prevents too much slime from soaking into the creel itself and producing the most horrendous stink. TL MC — "If you have tried everything you know, and nothing works, then perhaps it is time to accept that you don

Question:

Took my son Tom, up NW of Jackman, Me. for a couple of nights of camping and fishing. We drove up Friday, the weather threatening some rain so I nipped into WallyWorld and got him a cheapie rainsuit, hopefully guaranteeing that it wouldn’t rain. On the way in we went down to the boat launch on Holeb pond, one of two spots where people put in for the "bow trip". The campsite was mobbed, a full troop of scouts from Connecticut were preparing to launch the bow trip the next day and there was a full load of other campers. We then drove up to Turner pond, a small pond with special regs (arts only, 2 fish with a slot limit) and found that campsite deserted so we made camp. After a tasty steak we took the canoe out on the pond and to my surprise there were some hex’s hatching so I rigged up and moved down the left shore where I spotted some fish rising. I managed to miss a half dozen hits and the hatch died off so we made for the tent. The next morning after breakfast we went out and I hit the sinking line hard, fishing streamers and missed a couple of feeble hits. After lunch I let Tom take the canoe out by himself, a first for him, and he went out to a big rock and managed to get on the rock without dumping himself in the pond. He found a plaque that was somewhat sobering, commerating two fishermen who drowned in 1976 while fishing their "favorite pond". Later in the day a local came by and shared what he knew about it, the two gentlemen, one in his 70’s and one in his 50’s, a father and son, got caught on the pond in a storm and their canoe capsized, they didn’t make it to shore. Tom wanted to try flyfishing so I spent an hour or so with him in the road working on his cast. After dinner we went back out and he managed a couple of brookies, one about 6" and one about 10" on the dry fly. He was very happy. I managed one about 12" and again the hatch died off so we made to bed. This morning the wind was high, it was drizzling and nasty hot and humid, the mosquitoes were well fed, so we decided to cut the trip short by a day and come home. He was ready and to be fair so was I. Turner pond, for the record, is a pretty little pond about 18 miles out of Jackman. The main concentration of fish seemed to be on the north shore, where I could hear a fast running brook, but never managed to see where it was dumping into the pond. I suspect the fish population isn’t what it should be, or it was just a poor weekend for fishing as there were not that many fish showing, despite the hex hatch. I did manage to foul hook a 4" rainbow smelt on my #6 dry fly, a new accomplishment in setting records for the smallest fish on a trip The kick for me in this trip was Tom’s first trout/fish on a flyrod.  Tom had tried flyfishing once before but refused to practice casting, so the results were predictable, he got skunked and discouraged. The kick for Tom this time was outfishing his dad, and on a fly rod to boot ( he was so smug). In another 10-15 years I expect he’ll be in here sharing his (hopefully improved) puns and sharply developing sense of humor. Another flyfisherman has been introduced to the ranks. Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more

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Great report, Dave.  I’ve been thinking about making an overnighter up that direction sometime in the next week or so.  May even stop by the Rapid.  How are water levels in the rivers?  Water temps? Dave L.

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appreciated.  Indian Joe

Response:

appreciated. Indian Joe

You should be able to forward the message, is a list isn’t it? Just forward the roff message to the address you use to post to the list. — Charlie…

Response:

The Kennebec north of Madison is running very low, except the streach near the forks where the levels are dictated by the rafting companies. I stopped in a small fly shop near Solon on the way back and he said that the river is fishing well, but the hatches are poor, nymphs seem to be the ticket. He also said the water temp is running 65-68 in the Kennebec. I’m told the kennebec in Waterville is so low that you have to carry your boat across the sand bar, I’ve never seen it that low. Also Waterville is "off" as far as fishing, the trout must be sulking and the stripers went back down the river. Fly

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Great report, Dave.  I’ve been thinking about making an overnighter up that direction sometime in the next week or so.  May even stop by the Rapid. How are water levels in the rivers?  Water temps? Dave L.

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Question:

FWIW, several years ago I conducted an experiment to compare fluorocarbon tippet with "standard" tippet on a spring creek where the fish were somewhat leader-shy.  There really did not seem to be a significant difference between the two.  When fish approached my fly from the leader side, they tended to refuse my offering, but would take the fly if they approached from some other direction.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – been using orvis super strong 6x & 7x  tippet with good results. found out today they make a fluorocarbon tippet. told it is invisible in water! its slightly larger in dia. per equivalent test of mono though. its also pricey. $10.00/25 meters. any one tried it?

Response:

: been using orvis super strong 6x & 7x  tippet with good results. found out : today they make a fluorocarbon tippet. told it is invisible in water! its : slightly larger in dia. per equivalent test of mono though. its also pricey. : $10.00/25 meters. : any one tried it? I haven’t tried the Orvis line … however I found the brand I used very useful for getting (dragging) small wet flies (18-20) through scummy surface films in backwaters and the like.  It certainly helps sink small wets that may otherwise tend to float in still water. steve

Response:

says… Forget about it for dry flies. It’s too stiff, so it ruins the drag. My impression is that it’s best for streamers in large-tippet situations, like bonefishing. I’m planning to take a couple of spools of 10lb and 13lb fluorocarbon tippet to Xmas Island.

Berkley’s got a new line out called Vanish… It’s a Fluorocarbon Line but it’s much more supple than the other kinds I have tried. I have a spool of 12lb test I use for my salt water Fly Gear. I also use it for part of leaders as well in the butt section to make it stiffer… — Michael Era

Question:

To jfraser, about the first question regarding losing flies from snagging-  you were right-its part of the sport.  Nymphs, to be most effective have to be fished bouncing on the bottom.  I do not know how deep the water where you fish at is but one thing I do is use a floating line and run my leader length the same depth as the stream.  I then add split shots to the leader according to the speed of the current just until I feel my nymph just touching the bottom. The floating line helps me control my drift better and I can dectect strikes more often. For casting, I always believed in a quartering cast upstream and a drag free float.  On streamers/wet flies at the end of the drift let you fly arc around. a lot of strikes will occur as you fly comes around

Response:

I’d like to thank you and everybody else who is sending me feedback and tips. You ROFF gang are a real friendly bunch! Best Regards, Jeremy Fraser —

Yeah, and if you want this bunch to stay friendly Jeremy, never start a C&R/C&K thread!  ;-) Frank Church USAF Retired Elkhart, IN

Response:

I have just started to learn a few things about trout fly fishing, but there are a couple of questions I haven’t found the answers to in any books or in the ROFF FAQ. Can anybody help me answer these? 1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I tend to lose them by snagging and I’m wondering if this is just part of the sport or if I’m doing something wrong…? Can I prevent bottom snags by using strike indicators, shorter leaders, slower sink tip fly lines, a combination of the three or by doing something else? Don’t I want to get egg, leech, etc. patterns down on the bottom of rivers below the current? 2) I’ve read so much about casting and 10 to 2, 11 to 1, etc. and this has all been useful (I’m still trying to tame out a nasty tailing loop). I even went to a casting clinic — which was very helpful in getting me thinking about good casting technique. The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve. I am predominantly wanting to fish rivers so I assume this plays a part in retrieving. I also assume that different patterns (wet/dry, terrestrial/non-terrestrial, leech/minnow) call for different retrieve strategies. To me this really means thinking about how your retrieve will sucker the fish into believing your fly is the real thing, therefore I wouldn’t think it would make much sense to retrieve an egg pattern fly with much style because the fly’s "action" would be in the free float of the eggs in the current. I’m sure the retrieve is important in still water; however, is it worth giving much thought to it in moving water or should I just be focusing on getting my fly in the right place in/on the current for the duration of it’s "drag-free" float? Any comments/assistance would be appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jeremy Fraser

Response:

1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I tend to lose them by snagging and I’m wondering if this is just part of the sport or if I’m doing something wrong…?

Snagging flies is to some extent just the price of entry.  But, with experience, I find myself losing fewer flies than I used to for two reasons: 1.  Some casts I might have made in the past, I realize now will simply end up with a snag and no fish.  So I don’t cast. 2.  I’m a lot better at unsnagging a snagged fly.  Generally if you walk upstream of your fly, and pull back on the line in the opposite direction it entered the snag, perhaps extending your rod tip to the center of the stream, it will come free without a problem.  If it still doesn’t come out, walk further upstream, and try again.  It’s very rare that I have to break off a fly. Today probably lose one fly when before I would have lost 5 or 6.  Suspect your averages will improve too.  is it worth giving much thought to it in moving water or should I just be focusing on getting my fly in the right place in/on the current for the duration of it’s "drag-free" float?

99%+ of the time with nymphs or terrestials, what you want is a drag free float.  Achieving this is what much of becoming a good fisherman is about, and is something I’m still learning.  The techniques of mending, and special casts such as a reach or curved cast, or slack line casts, are very powerful. A lot of what I learned, I was exposed to by friends or guides, then had to learn by myself on the water.  If you’re having trouble keeping a drag free float in a situation, it pays to experiment with different mends or casts until you get it right (even if the fish are gone). Doug Swisher’s advanced casting video has a great introduction to casts which can help you in tricky situations (e.g. a reach cast).  And John Judy has written a book on slack line technique which is interesting, if a bit esoteric. Michael

Response:

1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving

water. I’m not sure why you are using sinking line.  Unless you are fishing really deep runs consistently (or perhaps fishing streamers??), you should be using floating line.  Your leader is all that should be sinking. An important key to nymph fishing is proper depth.  You should use an indicator that’s adjusted so that your fly moves with the current but occasionally gets delayed by riverbed obstacles.  If you are constantly hanging up or catching moss on your fly, move your indicator closer to your fly, if aren’t getting any false "hits" as you drift, you’re too far off the bottom.  The trick is to have your fly or flies tumbling around in the eddy-like turbulent layer of water produced by the interaction of the current with the riverbottom structure.  That’s where the fish spend a lot of time feeding.  Use an indicator that’s easy to move up and down your line so that you will be encouraged to change it as you move to new spots on the stream.  Adjusting depth has produced more strikes for me (in a drift zone I’ve already fished unsuccessfully) than any other change (such as change of weight or fly type). Proper weighting is also a key factor.  If you have the right amount of weight.  When you cast 1/4 up stream, the ideal is to have your flies "in the zone" as they pass the point straight out from you, cross-current.  Too much weight and you’ll definitely be getting stuck a lot on the bottom. Too little and you won’t be spending much time "in the zone" for each drift.  Personally, I find that if I must use more weight, I get hung up less if I use a couple of small split shot together rather than a larger shot of equivalent weight. The advice about walking up stream to pull the fly out of the snag the way it went in is a really good one.  I’ve saved many a fly this way. 2) … The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve….

For 95% of dry fly fishing, only dead drift will generate strikes.  Some caddis flies do skid along the surface and there are some techniques for imparting action that is natural.   The most important part about the retrieve in dry fly fishing is not to make a big splash or otherwise disturb the water with your initial backcast.  Start your back cast with a brief, slow pull to get the fly moving (especially if it has sunk below the surface) and then use full energy after it’s moving.  Try doing it the wrong way a few times, then the right way.  You’ll see a big difference in the amount of disturbance created as you backcast. When nymphing, you will generate some strikes on the retrieve simply because the pause between each pull causes an alteration in the flies movement that can mimic prey in trouble.  Fish sometimes key on this and you get strikes. Retrieve technique is most important when streamer fishing, but I do not do that much, so I can’t say much about it. Good luck. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Dear Rookie,      I’ve found that using floating line with a stike intcator and a small bead head or tiny weight helps to prevent losing all the flys.  I like to use what I call a "pendalum" approach to tying up my flies and weight.  First you take a separate piece of tippet about three to six inches long and tie it to your tippet line (or leader) about two to three inches form the bottom of your line.  Then you put your weight(what ever size you feel is nessicery) on the shorter of the two ends (usually the orriginal line).  Next you tie your choice of fly to the other piece of line and you are ready to go.  The theory is that when the wieght gets hung up on the bottom, it will just slide off and your fly will remain attached.  Granted you will have to replace the wieght, but it’s much more cost efficient than replacing flies.  I also recomend using a strike indicator.  Good luck, and I hope that my description made sence. Aaron

Response:

I think you’re right about casting sinking tip. I’m going to try casting the floating line I’ve got and see if I have better results. I’ll also try sticking a strike indicator on and see if that helps me at all. I’d like to thank you and everybody else who is sending me feedback and tips. You ROFF gang are a real friendly bunch! Best Regards, Jeremy Fraser — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I’m not sure why you are using sinking line.  Unless you are fishing really deep runs consistently (or perhaps fishing streamers??), you should be using floating line.  Your leader is all that should be sinking. An important key to nymph fishing is proper depth.  You should use an indicator that’s adjusted so that your fly moves with the current but occasionally gets delayed by riverbed obstacles.  If you are constantly hanging up or catching moss on your fly, move your indicator closer to your fly, if aren’t getting any false "hits" as you drift, you’re too far off the bottom.  The trick is to have your fly or flies tumbling around in the eddy-like turbulent layer of water produced by the interaction of the current with the riverbottom structure.  That’s where the fish spend a lot of time feeding.  Use an indicator that’s easy to move up and down your line so that you will be encouraged to change it as you move to new spots on the stream.  Adjusting depth has produced more strikes for me (in a drift zone I’ve already fished unsuccessfully) than any other change (such as change of weight or fly type). Proper weighting is also a key factor.  If you have the right amount of weight.  When you cast 1/4 up stream, the ideal is to have your flies "in the zone" as they pass the point straight out from you, cross-current.  Too much weight and you’ll definitely be getting stuck a lot on the bottom. Too little and you won’t be spending much time "in the zone" for each drift.  Personally, I find that if I must use more weight, I get hung up less if I use a couple of small split shot together rather than a larger shot of equivalent weight. The advice about walking up stream to pull the fly out of the snag the way it went in is a really good one.  I’ve saved many a fly this way. 2) … The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve…. For 95% of dry fly fishing, only dead drift will generate strikes.  Some caddis flies do skid along the surface and there are some techniques for imparting action that is natural. The most important part about the retrieve in dry fly fishing is not to make a big splash or otherwise disturb the water with your initial backcast.  Start your back cast with a brief, slow pull to get the fly moving (especially if it has sunk below the surface) and then use full energy after it’s moving.  Try doing it the wrong way a few times, then the right way.  You’ll see a big difference in the amount of disturbance created as you backcast. When nymphing, you will generate some strikes on the retrieve simply because the pause between each pull causes an alteration in the flies movement that can mimic prey in trouble.  Fish sometimes key on this and you get strikes. Retrieve technique is most important when streamer fishing, but I do not do that much, so I can’t say much about it. Good luck. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Question:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible.

No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins. Keep your stick on the ice, Thos.

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers?

snip….. snip…. No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins.

Here’s another method that has worked well for me. Scrape all fat off the underside of the skin. Tack the skin to a board or piece of cardboard with the feathers down. Make sure the feathers are dry and arranged the way you want them before you do this. Sprinkle dry borax on the scraped skin surface covering all exposed skin. Be generous with the Borax. It will absorb water out of the skin. I kind of pile it on. Let it sit out for a few days to a few weeks. I don’t know the minimum time because I often set these out in the garage or basement and forget them for a while. A low humidity area would be best. When the skin is crinkly dry, untack it and brush off the borax and you are done. For a final treatment, put it in a plastic baggy and run it through several freeze-thaw cycles in order to kill any remaining resident insects. Cheers. Jon

Response:

I’ve used footpowder to "cure" moose hide and it really works. Don’t see why it wouldn’t do the same thing on capes :O)  It’s also inexpesive and goes a long ways. Keith P

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured? Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

I just use plain old course salt.  Just spread the salt generously over the hyde and lay out in the sun, feather side down of course.  The saly draws out the moisture and the sun evaporates it.  After the skin is dry I shake off the excess salt then dust with talcum powder.  I still have pelts from pheasant season of two years ago, works great for me.                                                         Spy in Hawaii

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

Hi BB, Years ago, I had some young customers that would go to the local live stock auction and bid on old roosters. They said they paid about $2 to $3 for live birds. They killed and skinned them. They tacked the skins feather side down, skin side up on a wood surface. They used salt to dry up and cure the skins. After they are real dry and stiff, I would put them into an airtight container or a big zip lock bag. As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Hi, The method I used to preserve some pheasant skins was to scrape off as much fat as possible with a *non-serated edge* butter knife, stretch out and tack the skin feather side down, rub out and let dry with rock salt (usually 2 or 3 applications) and finally to cover the remaining almost-clean skin with borax. Then I let it dry in the garage for about 2 weeks.   Then I put them in a zip-lock bag.  Still have some of one skin left after ~12 years.

**SNIP** As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun.

To get a decent black with RIT dye you also have to add some brown into the mix.  Added a bit of Vinegar to set the dye (insturctions on the package). Like Bill said, you have to be careful with the temperatures (use a candy thermometer) or you can ruin some great feathers.   This is a very messy process but is worth the effort if you can’t get what you need locally and you can dye a bunch of stuff at once.  A.K. Best has a book out on dying materials that is quite good if your interested.                                   Good Fishing,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?   Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible. Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?  

See Eric Leiser’s Fly Tying Materials (1973) or other books.  The main points seem to be preliminary rinse with a mordant, to maximize dye’s effect, and then control of temperature to avoid cooking (the way egg white is transformed by high temperature.) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Question:

I purchased  9′ #6  4- piece rod early this summer and have loved it….however  it not a sage or an orvis…but at a  better price…

Response:

Check the reel seat. I purchased 2 rods for my grandsons a few years ago, and the reelseats failed in 6 months. the metal formed ring that holds the reel broke on both rods had to tape the reels on. While they don’t cost as much as a Sage, or Orvis, if you do a lot of flyfishing buy a rod that will give you years of service not 6 months. I have been flyfishing for 50+ years and have seen them all. Buy good blanks, build your own. Use snake guides, rather than single foot, as single foot bend, and snake guides don’t. Tight lines Art

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I purchased  9′ #6  4- piece rod early this summer and have loved it….however it not a sage or an orvis…but at a  better price…

Response:

Check the reel seat. I purchased 2 rods for my grandsons a few years ago, and the reelseats failed in 6 months. …While they don’t cost as much as a Sage, or Orvis, if you do a lot of flyfishing buy a rod that will give you years of service not 6 months.

You could have returned the rods to Bean for repair or refund;Bean has a 100% guarantee on everything.  So really a Bean rod should be able to give you years of service. You might also take the time (if you can) to visit the Bean store in Freeport, and check the workmanship on their different rods.  The $400+ rods are nicer than the $100 ones.  You get what you pay for, eh?  On the other hand, *all* their rods are guaranteed, no matter the price. BTW, I agree that the best value is in building your own. Russell Gelinas

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Question:

I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

Response:

I bought an Aquaterra Swing last fall and have only fished out of it twice.  On both occasions, however, it has proved to be a very stable craft, quiet, and easy to paddle.  The one drawback is that you will get wet, so it’s much more comfortable in warm weather/water.  Of course, you could wear waders or a wet suit. I have yet to try it in moving water, but would think it would operate quite nicely in moderate flows. Regards,  -William Ivey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

Response:

I thought of rigging outriggers to a regular kayak so you could stand while flyfishing if you desired. Anyone ever try this. MichaelSmith

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I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

        I use an SOT for tooling around in the reservoirs and impoundments of central Virginia, and I have a blast.  I can duck into really shallow areas, and can portage the boat and my rod fairly easily.  My only trouble has been the occasional hooking of the bow hardware; it is really tough to pull any flies out without beaching.  However, I feel more stable in the SOT (don’t flame me-that is just a PERSONAL preference, not a condemnation of canoes), so I prefer it to a canoe.  Since SOTs are so responsive to the paddle, almost as much as a traditional kayak, I havesome  problems using mine in moving water and fishing at the same time.  I tend to get wrapped up in one or the other, so I can’t get both done.  However, from my days living in Houston, I remember some of the central Texas rivers like the Guadalupe are relatively slow, like our local river-fed impoundments.  By all means try it; I have a blast with mine. Dan Johnson

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I have been kayaking for several years, and have both sea and whitewater boats.  I often fish from my sea kayak.  As far as SOT’s go, they are the fastest growing segment in kayaking, so if you don’t like what’s out there now, wait until next year.  Best advice is visit the nearest dealer that carries the major brands of SOT’s (Aquaterra, Dagger, Ocean Kayak), and paddle them all — take your gear and see how it fits on and in the boat.  See how stable/unstable it is while casting.  Any good dealer will spend the time with you so you get what you want.   Most likely you will find a short touring boat best for lakes and moving water up to Class II rapids.  Whitewater SOT’s will be too tippy and not track well enough for you to enjoy on lakes, but paddle them anyway — find out for yourself.  You may want to consider a high quality inflatable kayak like AIRE, SOAR, or Northwest River Supplies — packable, durable, responsive, stable as heck.  Good luck.

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I have three upcoming trips this spring: New Orleans in March, Miami in May, and North Carolina in July. I am looking for suggestions for

I guess it is time for a Keys, Bonefish, and Miami FAQ.. Here are some posts others have found useful. Have fun, and mail me if you have further questions…  Alan Barrow  km4ba         | If a little knowledge….. As if Santa wasn’t good enough to me, I found out that I have business in Ft. Lauderdale in January. It looks like a two hour drive down to the end of the Florida peninsula according to my atlas, and I plan on scamming a couple of extra days to cast for bonefish.

I would allow a little extra time, it can take longer depending on traffic. The only way in or out of the keys is US-1, and it is mostly 2 lane for miles. (You can take card sound road for a nice alternate route coming back. About the same time, and you see a different part of N Key Largo.) I am a steelheader from Seattle who knows NOTHING< about bonefish except that my 8wt rpl will work, and the flies under the heading "bonefish" are small shrimpy weighted flies.

You ought to be ok, use as much of a WF line as you have. Make sure you have as much backing as your reel will hold. Nevertheless, the thought of ‘wading the flats’ wearing shorts in January is too much to resist for someone from latitude 47.

And you can do it, you just have to be a bit trickier during winter time. The bonefish are still there, they just will not come onto the flats until the water warms up. I would plan on fishing mid-day if the night time temp is below 70. The flats will be too cold in the AM, but will warm up. I am groveling for information! (fishing dates: Jan 14th – 16th)

Here are some posts I have made earlier. Not all will be relevant, but most info should be useful. I grew up down there, and spend 2-3 weeks a year flats fishing in the upper Keys. My brother works in Key Largo and Key West about half of the time, and he gets me current fishing reports. Both he and I have flats boats, and are into flyfishing for bonefish and tarpon. Have fun! Call me if you have questions… 404/850-2644  Alan Barrow  km4ba         | If a little knowledge….. Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing Some friends and I, serious fly fisherman all, are thinking about going to the Florida Keys to do some bonefishing (and maybe tarpon, permit, etc.)  this winter.  Never having done this before, I have scads of questions: * Is end of December/beginning of January a good time?

Bones are there year round. They will not come up onto the flats if the water temp is too cold. Also wind is more likely, and impacts the number of "fishable" (sight fishing) days. However, the largest bonefish are usually caught in winter. I have hooked (not landed) very big bonefish during XMAS trips last year. Tarpon migrate, and are not in the Keys in large quantities until May/June. There are year round Tarpon spots in the Keys ( and Miami) but it is usually deep water. (Bridges/channels, etc) I consider June/July the best time all around for fishing in the Keys. I still fish year all seasons, because even "off season" the fishing is better than most places I know. But for fly fisherman, winter may be less desirable. Redfish are available year round, as are sharks and barracudas. Many fly types are sight fishing for big ‘Cudas during winter when it the flats are too cold for bonefish. * Where are the good spots in the keys?  Should we try Grand Bahama or  Belize instead?

My conclusion is that if you want numbers and lot’s of action, hit the bahamas, Christmas Island (near Hawaii), or costa rica. However, If you want big fish on a regular basis, Miami down to Marathon for bonefish is hard to beat. For Tarpon, Boca Grande pass in June is fantastic. Not the same as sight fishing the flats edges for tarpon in the Keys, but killer in a different fashion. Tarpon are all around florida mid year, so there are many good places for them. The keys are ideal due to: Big Bonefish, good tarpon, great Permit, OK redfish, great trout, great dolphin close in (the fish). The water is great for sight fishing in the Keys. Other parts of Fla are less "clear". The Bahamas are tough to beat in water clarity. * Know any good guides/outfitters?

I have not used a guide for 3 years, but recommend using one until you become proficient in finding fish yourself. Even then, guides will put you onto more fish. * Will I need my own equipment or can I rent?

I have not seen much rental equipment. If you have a guide, he will provide top notch equipment. I hope you have a good time! Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing I will be on Islamorada from February 10-17 of this year.  I plan to do some inshore fishing, and am wondering if this is a particularly "hot" time for specific fish. Can anyone give me some help? I’ll be

Entirely dependant on water temperature. (Wind may also be an issue) Some of the largest bonefish are caught in "winter" (dec-feb). You may also go all day without seeing a fish on a flat. A guide is a big win here. They may know when/where fish may make an appearence. We have found that "normal" behavior does not apply. (normal for bonefish is: fish move on flat with low incoming tide.) Problem is that with colder water temp, at may be midday before the water warms up enough. Thus traditional early morning/late evening "best times" may not apply. Barracuda are found (and fished for) on the flats in the winter. Any other time, these guys are almost impossible to catch. (Except when a big bonefish is about to nail your shrimp/lure) Also sharks on the flats can be fun. Tarpon are pretty much somewhere else, except for a few "bridge" types that hang around year round. Redfish and trout in the backcountry (Fla Bay, as opposed to the Atlantic) should also be a good option. (Not as exciting as bonefish, but still pretty good) I believe offshore is pretty good this time of year. (Sailfish, grouper, Kings, snapper, etc) out for a full day, and would like to spend about half the day fishing purely for sport (i.e. tarpon, bonefish, maybe permit) and half the day fishing for something I can cook up afterwards. Is this possible?

Bonefish or permit then hit backcountry for redfish or trout. I have limited out on big trout within 30 min skiff ride from Islamorada. (By the way, you will be "in" Islamorada, the city. You will be "on" upper or lower matacumbe. Just a "nit" :- ) Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’d like to call up and reserve a guide ahead of time.

We had good luck with Jamie Brodie, who booked out of Holiday Isle. I could get other names from Fla Sportsman if needed. Secondly, since I can’t afford a guide every day I’m there, but would like to do some fishing most of the days I’m there, I’m wondering if anyone can give me advice about wading/shore fishing. I’ll cast for

This is how we got started. Harry Harris park up in key largo (20 min N of Islamorada) is a good flat to wade for bonefish. Also flats off the bridges at shell and indian key ( Just S of Islamorada. ) are good. If you see brown bottom that you can get too from your hotel, etc. I would give it a try. Wear tennis shoes, or booties. (I use "aquasox" as well) Be aware of stingrays. (Some say to shuffle. I do if I cannot see the bottom very clearly. I have found if the bottom is hard enough to wade, the stingrays do not bury themselves. They are also very spooky, and will avoid you.) Also bridge fishing all along that area is good. You can also rent a boat. (not cheap, but cheaper than a guide.) Plan on using it mainly to get too flats. Do not try to take it on the flats, as you will get stuck unless it is very high tide. You will not have a pole anyway. Even with our flat’s boats, we wade alot. (during low tide) anything, I just don’t know what’s there to cast to, or what to cast to whatever is there (to state a simple point in a fairly unruly way).

On the flats you will see:         stingrays- do not try to catch them. Look for bonefish/jack         following them. try to cast on the back of any stingray you see.         Many times you will not see the fish following them. Best sign         that bonefish are on the flats. Stingrays are your friend.         Bonefish- swim most in straight lines. best case is to find them         tailing in low water. (why wading is good). You may see one or a         dozen. Very spooky. Cast in front of them, let them swim up on         your lure/bait.         Permit- The most spooky. look for "sickle" fin sticking out of         water.         Baracuda- usually loitering around. Moving very slowly, then         disappears faster than your eye can follow. If you see a fish,         and it does not move 5-10 feet in a few seconds, then it is probably         a barracuda. cast past it 10 feet in front of it. reel as fast         as you can. They strike instinctively.         Jack- Usually you do not see them, but catch them by accident.         can get pretty big, fights almost as good as a bonefish. (Just         missing the 200 yd runs.)         Sharks- 2-5′ nurse, lemon,

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I have three upcoming trips this spring: New Orleans in March, Miami in May, and North Carolina in July. I am looking for suggestions for saltwater flyfishing in these places. If you can recommend guides or

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