Question:

I’m a little confused by how a braided loop failure could cause the loss of a fly line, unless you use a loop-to-loop connection between your line and backing.

Actually, I use them there too. I can see if you didn’t fasten it on good it could get pushed off by a guide as the line went into the backing. I use thread and Aquaseal to fasten the end of the connector on instead of the shrink tubing partly for that reason. — Charlie…

Response:

Hello Dave, A pretty standard way to connect leaders to floating freshwater fly lines is to needle-nail knot on a butt section of mono first. The section should be around 2/3 the diameter of the end of your fly line and at least the same diameter of the butt of the tapered leader being used. Averagely this is 25# mono that is around .021", but this can vary depending on the diameter of the end or point of the floating line used. I have seen butts used from 6" to 18" but a foot long is pretty average. Sunset "Amnesia" shooting line, Hal Janssen "Leader Control" (clear Amnesia) or Maxima "Ultra Green" are some popular mono around here for fresh water butts. Some will put a small perfection loop on the end of the butt or some will use a 3 or 4 turn blood knot to attach their knotless tapered leader. Your local fly shop should be able to show you how this is done. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After hearing lots of negative comments about the loop connectors that come with some lines (Orvis), and noticing that my line tips tend to sink a bit, I’ve decided to experiment and replace the loop connectors with a short length of nail-knotted leader ending in a small loop. The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  I’m sure the answer is related to the weight and type of flyline the leader is being attached to — I’d be making this changeover on the following: Orvis wf 5 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating bass line. Thanks for your help! Dave

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After hearing lots of negative comments about the loop connectors that come with some lines (Orvis), and noticing that my line tips tend to sink a bit, I’ve decided to experiment and replace the loop connectors with a short length of nail-knotted leader ending in a small loop. The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  I’m sure the answer is related to the weight and type of flyline the leader is being attached to — I’d be making this changeover on the following: Orvis wf 5 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating bass line. Thanks for your help! Dave I use a nail knot to tie my leader directly to the fly line. I hate the braided loops. Particularly after after one failed and I lost a fly line and a striper size XXL. Paul

I’m a little confused by how a braided loop failure could cause the loss of a fly line, unless you use a loop-to-loop connection between your line and backing. — Scott Reverse first field of address to reply

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [snip] I use a nail knot to tie my leader directly to the fly line. I hate the braided loops. Particularly after after one failed and I lost a fly line and a striper size XXL. Paul I’m a little confused by how a braided loop failure could cause the loss of a fly line, unless you use a loop-to-loop connection between your line and backing.

It was a shooting head to running line. The fish decided it was too close to the boat. It took off and on the way throught the guides the shrink tube that keeps the braid from fraying must have hit a guide that released the tension on the braid and bye bye fish and shooting head. I went home and cut off all the braided loops from all my lines and tied nail knots on all leader and backing to fly line connections. Haven’t had a problem in the 9 years since I did that. Paul

Response:

I did exactly that . . . I got rid of the braided connectors and went to the mono nail knot/perfection loop. Mine is about 4 inches in length as attached. I used the backend of a leader that I commonly use. I figured it should be similar to the leader material in weight and make up, so I used one! At this point, I wont go back to the braided connectors. I did it to the following: Orvis Wonderline WF 5wt SA Mastery Series GPX WF 5wt I am also planning on using this method on my 7wt when I get the rod built!! Wayne says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After hearing lots of negative comments about the loop connectors that come with some lines (Orvis), and noticing that my line tips tend to sink a bit, I’ve decided to experiment and replace the loop connectors with a short length of nail-knotted leader ending in a small loop. The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  I’m sure the answer is related to the weight and type of flyline the leader is being attached to — I’d be making this changeover on the following: Orvis wf 5 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating bass line. Thanks for your help! Dave

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After hearing lots of negative comments about the loop connectors that come with some lines (Orvis), and noticing that my line tips tend to sink a bit, I’ve decided to experiment and replace the loop connectors with a short length of nail-knotted leader ending in a small loop. The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  I’m sure the answer is related to the weight and type of flyline the leader is being attached to — I’d be making this changeover on the following: Orvis wf 5 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating bass line. Thanks for your help! Dave

I use a nail knot to tie my leader directly to the fly line. I hate the braided loops. Particularly after after one failed and I lost a fly line and a striper size XXL. Paul

Response:

My floating lines are set up with braided loops and nail knotted mono/perfection loops on the sinking ones.  Braided loops can trap air and hold the tip of a sinking line up.  I once used one on a Type 5 sinktip only to see the belly two foot down and the tip on the surface.  Since then all sinking lines have been mono only.  As Ken mentioned, they should be as short as practical and roughly  two thirds the thickness of the tip or about mid way in thickness between the leader butt and line tip. All braided loops will fail if they are not installed properly.  The end of the floating fly line should be sealed with glue to prevent the ingress of water that would cause the tip to sink.  The tip of the line should be inserted fully into the sleeve and as far as possible into the doubled over section of the loop.  A nail knot should be tied on the opposite end of the sleeve, securing it to the line.  The heat shrink tubing should be placed over the knot and the end of the sleeve to prevent fraying as well as smoothing its passage through the guides.  Glue shouldn’t be used on the sleeve as it can make it brittle and prone to breakage.  Braided loops should be periodically checked for fraying. Both loop system can fail, even when well installed.  Enough pressure can break a braided loop, pull a nail knot off the line, or break a perfection loop.  The trick is to make sure that the transition loop isn’t the weakest link.  A properly installed braided loop provide superior turnover due to their inherent stiffness when properly installed and are especially suited to use with heavy sinking leaders like Airflo Polyleaders.  Their tendency to float helps keep the tips of floating lines up plus they can also serve as strike indicators if you use a bright coloured heat shrink tube. HTH Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Bill, After a phone conversation with your staff about 3 weeks ago, I went to the nail knot/surgeon’s or perfection loop set-up for all my saltwater rigs.  I also shortened my Orvis 38 ft. shooting head to 30 ft. per their suggestion and casting improved tremendously.  I kept trying to buy some shooting heads from those guys and they insisted I check locally to see what was being used successfully.  I have to say they ended up getting me steered in the right directions on a number of saltwater options.  I would suggest though, that east coast fishing setups  can be related to west coast fishing setups through water temperatures. Might broaden your sales base?? — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello Dave, A pretty standard way to connect leaders to floating freshwater fly lines is to needle-nail knot on a butt section of mono first. The section should be around 2/3 the diameter of the end of your fly line and at least the same diameter of the butt of the tapered leader being used. Averagely this is 25# mono that is around .021", but this can vary depending on the diameter of the end or point of the floating line used. I have seen butts used from 6" to 18" but a foot long is pretty average. Sunset "Amnesia" shooting line, Hal Janssen "Leader Control" (clear Amnesia) or Maxima "Ultra Green" are some popular mono around here for fresh water butts. Some will put a small perfection loop on the end of the butt or some will use a 3 or 4 turn blood knot to attach their knotless tapered leader. Your local fly shop should be able to show you how this is done. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

Response:

After hearing lots of negative comments about the loop connectors that come with some lines (Orvis), and noticing that my line tips tend to sink a bit, I’ve decided to experiment and replace the loop connectors with a short length of nail-knotted leader ending in a small loop. The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  I’m sure the answer is related to the weight and type of flyline the leader is being attached to — I’d be making this changeover on the following: Orvis wf 5 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating trout line Wonderline wf 6 wt floating bass line. Thanks for your help! Dave

Response:

… The question:  What length, weight, type, even brands of leaders would be best for this?  …

I use the nail knot/perfection loop setup on my 5wts. I like Orvis Super Strong and find that .019 matches up with my 5wt lines. Most anything in the range of .017 to .021 would work. As for the length, I make it as short as  I possibly can and still tie a perfection loop. — Ken Fortenberry

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Question:

i gotta disagree here… with shooting heads it is actually beneficial imo to go up in grains or overload the rod.  a 9 wt. will easily cast a 30′ LC-13 lead core shooting head.

I’ll give it a try.  So far however, my 8/9 rated rod throws a Teeny 200 far more comfortably than the 300 line.  I might require a rod with more backbone since currently I find that even after roll casting the line to the surface, I’ve got to sweep through a large angle with my casting arm before I can get the 300 line moving. Mu

Response:

We normally over-line our heads at least one size above the rods line weight.  Most #9 rods would throw about a 300 grn. shooting head. This would be normally a number 10 head.  With leadcore it can go even higher. I would try anything from 28 to 30 feet of leadcore on a #9 rod. A #9 is a great size for throwing ‘lead’. You can use 30# Sunset ‘Amnesia’ mono running line or some other mono. Some use a  fly line running/shooting line like the SA/Mastery .35" salt water floating running line or this new Rio clear monocore .030" running line. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newbie question for all you experianced fly fishers here:  How do you go about making a sinking shooting head out of lead core line?  Hawaii is notorious for it’s lack of fly fishing supplies, and especially here on Maui.  Would like to try and make my own.  I have been using a WT 9 F, but would like to fish deeper.  Thanks for the input. Cortland markets a lead-core product called LC-13 because it is 13 grains/foot. The head (the first 30 feet on most of them) of a 9 weight fly line typically weighs 240 grains.  Therefore lengths of LC-13 from about 18′ to 22′ should feel reasonably comfortable on your 9 weight. If you go to a non-fly fishing shop that has a good selection of trolling gear they should have all sorts of lead core in various lb test ratings & consequently differing grains/foot. You’ll need a good scale to weigh the different lead core pieces.  Something that is accurate to the nearest gram should do. FYI: 1 ounce = 437.5 grains and 1 grain = 0.0648 grams Use a loop to loop connection to join your head to the running line. Mu i gotta disagree here… with shooting heads it is actually beneficial imo to go up in grains or overload the rod.  a 9 wt. will easily cast a 30′ LC-13 lead core shooting head.  takes a little practice, but it will work and cast well.  first, don’t do much false casting, use roll casts and water loading and learn the double haul (try to ignore any and all threads on roff about double hauling <G).  plus, the shorter you make the shooting head the worse imo it acts like a shooting head. cb

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newbie question for all you experianced fly fishers here:  How do you go about making a sinking shooting head out of lead core line?  Hawaii is notorious for it’s lack of fly fishing supplies, and especially here on Maui.  Would like to try and make my own.  I have been using a WT 9 F, but would like to fish deeper.  Thanks for the input. Cortland markets a lead-core product called LC-13 because it is 13 grains/foot. The head (the first 30 feet on most of them) of a 9 weight fly line typically weighs 240 grains.  Therefore lengths of LC-13 from about 18′ to 22′ should feel reasonably comfortable on your 9 weight. If you go to a non-fly fishing shop that has a good selection of trolling gear they should have all sorts of lead core in various lb test ratings & consequently differing grains/foot. You’ll need a good scale to weigh the different lead core pieces.  Something that is accurate to the nearest gram should do. FYI: 1 ounce = 437.5 grains and 1 grain = 0.0648 grams Use a loop to loop connection to join your head to the running line. Mu

i gotta disagree here… with shooting heads it is actually beneficial imo to go up in grains or overload the rod.  a 9 wt. will easily cast a 30′ LC-13 lead core shooting head.  takes a little practice, but it will work and cast well.  first, don’t do much false casting, use roll casts and water loading and learn the double haul (try to ignore any and all threads on roff about double hauling <G).  plus, the shorter you make the shooting head the worse imo it acts like a shooting head. cb

Response:

Newbie question for all you experianced fly fishers here:  How do you go about making a sinking shooting head out of lead core line?  Hawaii is notorious for it’s lack of fly fishing supplies, and especially here on Maui.  Would like to try and make my own.  I have been using a WT 9 F, but would like to fish deeper.  Thanks for the input.

Cortland markets a lead-core product called LC-13 because it is 13 grains/foot. The head (the first 30 feet on most of them) of a 9 weight fly line typically weighs 240 grains.  Therefore lengths of LC-13 from about 18′ to 22′ should feel reasonably comfortable on your 9 weight. If you go to a non-fly fishing shop that has a good selection of trolling gear they should have all sorts of lead core in various lb test ratings & consequently differing grains/foot. You’ll need a good scale to weigh the different lead core pieces.  Something that is accurate to the nearest gram should do. FYI: 1 ounce = 437.5 grains and 1 grain = 0.0648 grams Use a loop to loop connection to join your head to the running line. Mu

Response:

Question:

Peter,     I don’t know the Ross Colorado, but I have several Gunnison and Cimarron reels from Ross, and the drags are anything but wimpy.  The thing I like most about them is that they will adjust from dead zero to enough to hold back a 20 pound salmon heading back to the salt. I’ve also controlled Pike up to 25 pounds with these reels, and I’ve never wanted the drag as tight as it can go. Chas

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Somebody had asked a while back about Gallatin reels but I can’t find a reference to the post anymore.  I was browsing some reel web sites yesterday and I found Gallatin’s.  It turns out that the Gallatin reels shown on the site, are rebadged Marados.  These are Korean made machined and anodized reels that sell for very reasonable prices here. I have a Marado with a click & pawl drag and I’m quite satisfied with it.  They’re robustly made and feature the proven Hardy Marquis type drag, a ball-bearing at the base of the spindle, and a nice wood handle.  I used to own a Ross Colorado CO-0 and a CO-3; I prefer the Marado (Gallatin) to the Ross (wimpy drag on the Ross.) So to whoever asked, goferit.  The Marado (Gallatin) are among the best machined reel deals on the market (assuming the Gallatin prices are as reasonable as the Canadian Marado. – $135.00 CDN for the smallest model.) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at

http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Peter,    I don’t know the Ross Colorado, but I have several Gunnison and Cimarron reels from Ross, and the drags are anything but wimpy.  The thing I like most about them is that they will adjust from dead zero to enough to hold back a 20 pound salmon heading back to the salt. I’ve also controlled Pike up to 25 pounds with these reels, and I’ve never wanted the drag as tight as it can go. Chas

The Colorado has only a click & pawl drag with a single pawl and a very wimpy spring.  It comes with two springs but even with the heavy one installed, there isn’t half the resistance of a typical Hardy Marquis.  It’s very easy to overspool them if you strip line out too quickly.  They are nicely made but Ross should have copied Hardy instead of the drag design they’ve used. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

The Colorado has only a click & pawl drag with a single pawl and a very

wimpy spring.    A very wimpy spring that doesn’t last very long.  I have a couple of Colorados, shame on me for being fooled twice. One failed me miserably at the Ennis clave, and the local fly shops didn’t have a spare spring for sale. The other failed on an extended backpacking trip, causing the fishing to be a frustrating experience. When they fail, the spring loses it’s "springiness" all of a sudden, and the reel becomes a free spooling birdsnest. If you have a Colorado that hasn’t failed yet, ALWAYS carry the extra spring, because you’ll need it one day.

Response:

The Colorado has only a click & pawl drag with a single pawl and a very wimpy spring.   A very wimpy spring that doesn’t last very long.  I have a couple of Colorados, shame on me for being fooled twice. One failed me miserably at the Ennis clave, and the local fly shops didn’t have a spare spring for sale. The other failed on an extended backpacking trip, causing the fishing to be a frustrating experience. When they fail, the spring loses it’s "springiness" all of a sudden, and the reel becomes a free spooling birdsnest. If you have a Colorado that hasn’t failed yet, ALWAYS carry the extra spring, because you’ll need it one day.

I called the Ross factory about the springs and their rep told me that they had built the Colorado this way to replicate the "traditional" feel of a click-drag reel.  IMHO, if they wanted to do that, they should have stuck to a traditional design. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Somebody had asked a while back about Gallatin reels but I can’t find a reference to the post anymore.  I was browsing some reel web sites yesterday and I found Gallatin’s.  It turns out that the Gallatin reels shown on the site, are rebadged Marados.  These are Korean made machined and anodized reels that sell for very reasonable prices here. I have a Marado with a click & pawl drag and I’m quite satisfied with it.  They’re robustly made and feature the proven Hardy Marquis type drag, a ball-bearing at the base of the spindle, and a nice wood handle.  I used to own a Ross Colorado CO-0 and a CO-3; I prefer the Marado (Gallatin) to the Ross (wimpy drag on the Ross.)   So to whoever asked, goferit.  The Marado (Gallatin) are among the best machined reel deals on the market (assuming the Gallatin prices are as reasonable as the Canadian Marado. – $135.00 CDN for the smallest model.) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Question:

Tony, Thanks for the tip. Do you know if Bonda PU Power Adhesive can be purchased in the USA? Thanks. Bob E.

Bob, it is available here from a few companies. The brand I’ve used is called Gorrila Glue. Woodworking supply stores will have one brand or another. Use this stuff carefully, it is messy and does not clean up easily. Bob Smith Before you buy.

Response:

If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite?

Hi Mu, I think ‘cures’ rather than ‘dries’ is the operative word. The adhesive reacts to the moisture in the air or in the material being glued. It probably wouldn’t hurt to dunk the cork handle in water for a few minutes, then pat dry the excess water, before using this PU adhesive (see article in link below). I think Bob Smith has a better handle (’scuse the pun) on this than I have. Thanks, Bob, for your input. But try this for more info: www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/ I’ll certainly be giving this stuff a trial for my next rod building project. Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

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I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact.

If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite? Mu

Response:

In article <Pine.SOL.4.10.10003122128550.5607- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact. If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite? Mu

Mu, the glue will dry as fast as the stated time on the label. A little faster if the surfaces to be glued are slightly damp. Moisture helps it cure. You only put the glue on one surface of the two to be glued. I use this stuff in my woodworking the rare times I have to glue up two dissimilar surfaces. Wood to metal or Corian etc. So it’ll work well for handles to fly rods.  Two things tho. It is not reversable and if you get any on bare ( bear ? ) skin you’ll have a nice dark brown stain to wear for a week or so. Nothing cleans this stuff up. Tape off the rod blank also at front and rear of the handle. The foam also sticks to anything it touches.  Bob Smith Before you buy.

Response:

Tony, Thanks for the tip. Do you know if Bonda PU Power Adhesive can be purchased in the USA? Thanks. Bob E. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We had a club meeting the other night and I bumped into an old acquaintance who is managing director of one of the leading wholesale suppliers of top quality cork rod handles in the UK. I first met him at a fly fishing show about 10 years ago and that meeting prompted me to write an article on cork that was published in one of our game fishing magazines. During our conversation the other night, the subject of gluing cork handles to blanks cropped up. I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact. Apparently, this PU adhesive is slightly resilient and works easily. My friend assured me that this stuff was much better suited to the application than epoxies, that are often recommended. The brand he sells is called ‘Bonda PU Power Adhesive’ and it sells (here) for about

Question:

Hi Farns, No I haven’t worked for a software company although I do derive my livelihood in a tougher hi-tech industry that survives (or not) when a company provides second class service or a product that just doesn’t work right first time.   I don’t possess a copy of Fly! so my comments are/were generic and aimed at no Publisher in particular.  There is one well known major publishing house that consistently thinks ‘close enough is near enough’ and their Ops Normal is to release today and patch tomorrow to get the cash. Such attitides pressure the developers into wrapping a product at a deadline regardless of build standard.  These guys usually respond to bug problems only after they get caught out and if people scream loud enough.  In some cases publishers stonewall, and keep their heads firmly embedded in their asses and pretend products are without fault. By any appraisal of the complaints, and some responses from the Publishers, some propblems were known at pressing and others are so obvious  it’s hard to figure out why they were let slip by.  Says a lot about the Beta Testers for different Publishers who – from my personal knowledge – are typically ‘yes men’ afraid to open their mouths and delay production.  Some Publishers just don’t like bad news and some Beta Testers just like the freebies.  Both do consumers a disservice. If you have continual ready access to on-line updates that takes much of the annoyance out of buying an untested product.  From what I read here Fly! has not made a lot of friends because of that philosophy.   The purpose of my posting was to say that a lot do not have what you and I take for granted.  It would be nice to believe that publishers would listen to these daily wake-up calls and show the consumers – who put food on their tables when it’s all said and done – a little more consideration.  Nobody is perfect – least of all moi but – but some just never learn from past mistakes. Let’s not forget that this is all about having fun.  When the crass commercialism makes it less fun and more stress, folks are more likely to go back to playing golf or fishing rgds, — Steve Small Canberra, Australia

Response:

regarding Re: Fly! Give’em a break: We understand, they work hard for a software in version 1.0 And first patch is already out.  They post announcements on www.avsim.com free site compared to their competitor (flightsim) –  wich is great since is open to everybody.

<SNIP The limited membership registration for www.flightsim.com is free, I’m using it and it works fine. So it is open to everybody , you just have to register. — Tomas Wil

Question:

taxes, sex & flyfishing As is usual this time of year, today I had sex with  Uncle Sam….he screwed me good this time. At least it will be another year before I get reamed again. I didn’t even enjoy the post-coitus cigarette. What I did enjoy was going to a neat little back country stone-creek that is chock full of wild fish and I won’t divulge the name of it. Let’s just say it’s nowhere near North Carolina nor Key West. I’ve been meaning to fish this stretch for years and finally made it today. I parked at an easy access point and started working upstream about 4 pm and picked up a couple of small wild browns and rainbows on a size 16 ehc and than landed a nice ‘bow who ripped the elk hair off the fly.  In a lackadaisical mood, I left the wingless "caddis" tied on and fished it just as a full-shanked hackled fly. I couldn’t believe it as I continued to catch fish on this half-dressed fly. So far, I had been working upstream through a series of riffles and pockets and an occasional small pool. As I came around a bend, a big beautiful pool greeted me with a nice waterfall at the head. Ahhhh, the promised land. I finally changed flies to another full-bodied ehc. I surveyed my surroundings and determined that if I was going to get my fly to where that big moving shadow was, it was going to take one hell of a soft roll cast. Unbelievably,  I succeeded with my effort and was rewarded with a solid 14 inch wild rainbow that ripped back and forth through the pool. Usually, when that happens all the other fish inhabiting a pool go a hiding. Not this pool. I actually took three more smaller fish before they wised up to my presence. I shortly debated with myself  to call it a day versus climbing up and around the falls. I climbed. A little while later with no broken bones, I stepped back into the creek. A hatch of Hendricksons (kinda early in the season I thought, but it has been warm as of late) greeted me and I switched flies quickly to match them. I was continually rewarded with fish as I moved through a gorge section of the creek. Up ahead, I heard what sounded like thunder and as a I came out of the gorge I was taken aback in complete awe. A vertical waterfall at least 100 feet high emptied into this big deep pool. Spray from the fall was reaching me at least a 100 feet away. Pretty damn awesome. I changed flies to a size 12 march brown and approached the pool slowly and began casting the fly into the exits with no luck. I picked up a rainbow from the center and as I was bringing him in something big attacked him. Time to change flies I say…. I put on a big screaming yellow/black wooly-bugger and double-hauled it across the pool and started stripping it back in like there was no tomorrow. Cast and retrieve. I casted and retrieved countless times with no luck. I changed flies to a wally-melon (an aborted wooly-bugger to the inanely curious) and had a resounding strike on the first cast. Big fish, a real big fish. About five minutes later as I released the two-foot or so brownie, I lit another cigarette that was far more satisfying. –walt   4-14-98

Response:

— LET YOUR HOOK BE ALWAYS CAST; IN THE POOL WHERE YOU LEAST EXPECT IT, THERE WILL BE A FISH.                                           -OVID- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – taxes, sex & flyfishing As is usual this time of year, today I had sex with  Uncle Sam….he screwed me good this time. At least it will be another year before I get reamed again. I didn’t even enjoy the post-coitus cigarette. What I did enjoy was going to a neat little back country stone-creek that is chock full of wild fish and I won’t divulge the name of it. Let’s just say it’s nowhere near North Carolina nor Key West. I’ve been meaning to fish this stretch for years and finally made it today. I parked at an easy access point and started working upstream about 4 pm and picked up a couple of small wild browns and rainbows on a size 16 ehc and than landed a nice ‘bow who ripped the elk hair off the fly.  In a lackadaisical mood, I left the wingless "caddis" tied on and fished it just as a full-shanked hackled fly. I couldn’t believe it as I continued to catch fish on this half-dressed fly. So far, I had been working upstream through a series of riffles and pockets and an occasional small pool. As I came around a bend, a big beautiful pool greeted me with a nice waterfall at the head. Ahhhh, the promised land. I finally changed flies to another full-bodied ehc. I surveyed my surroundings and determined that if I was going to get my fly to where that big moving shadow was, it was going to take one hell of a soft roll cast. Unbelievably,  I succeeded with my effort and was rewarded with a solid 14 inch wild rainbow that ripped back and forth through the pool. Usually, when that happens all the other fish inhabiting a pool go a hiding. Not this pool. I actually took three more smaller fish before they wised up to my presence. I shortly debated with myself  to call it a day versus climbing up and around the falls. I climbed. A little while later with no broken bones, I stepped back into the creek. A hatch of Hendricksons (kinda early in the season I thought, but it has been warm as of late) greeted me and I switched flies quickly to match them. I was continually rewarded with fish as I moved through a gorge section of the creek. Up ahead, I heard what sounded like thunder and as a I came out of the gorge I was taken aback in complete awe. A vertical waterfall at least 100 feet high emptied into this big deep pool. Spray from the fall was reaching me at least a 100 feet away. Pretty damn awesome. I changed flies to a size 12 march brown and approached the pool slowly and began casting the fly into the exits with no luck. I picked up a rainbow from the center and as I was bringing him in something big attacked him. Time to change flies I say…. I put on a big screaming yellow/black wooly-bugger and double-hauled it across the pool and started stripping it back in like there was no tomorrow. Cast and retrieve. I casted and retrieved countless times with no luck. I changed flies to a wally-melon (an aborted wooly-bugger to the inanely curious) and had a resounding strike on the first cast. Big fish, a real big fish. About five minutes later as I released the two-foot or so brownie, I lit another cigarette that was far more satisfying. –walt   4-14-98

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -taxes, sex & flyfishing As is usual this time of year, today I had sex with  Uncle Sam….he screwed me good this time. At least it will be another year before I get reamed again. I didn’t even enjoy the post-coitus cigarette. What I did enjoy was going to a neat little back country stone-creek that is chock full of wild fish and I won’t divulge the name of it. Let’s just say it’s nowhere near North Carolina nor Key West. I’ve been meaning to fish this stretch for years and finally made it today. I parked at an easy access point and started working upstream about 4 pm and picked up a couple of small wild browns and rainbows on a size 16 ehc and than landed a nice ‘bow who ripped the elk hair off the fly.  In a lackadaisical mood, I left the wingless "caddis" tied on and fished it just as a full-shanked hackled fly. I couldn’t believe it as I continued to catch fish on this half-dressed fly. So far, I had been working upstream through a series of riffles and pockets and an occasional small pool. As I came around a bend, a big beautiful pool greeted me with a nice waterfall at the head. Ahhhh, the promised land. I finally changed flies to another full-bodied ehc. I surveyed my surroundings and determined that if I was going to get my fly to where that big moving shadow was, it was going to take one hell of a soft roll cast. Unbelievably,  I succeeded with my effort and was rewarded with a solid 14 inch wild rainbow that ripped back and forth through the pool. Usually, when that happens all the other fish inhabiting a pool go a hiding. Not this pool. I actually took three more smaller fish before they wised up to my presence. I shortly debated with myself  to call it a day versus climbing up and around the falls. I climbed. A little while later with no broken bones, I stepped back into the creek. A hatch of Hendricksons (kinda early in the season I thought, but it has been warm as of late) greeted me and I switched flies quickly to match them. I was continually rewarded with fish as I moved through a gorge section of the creek. Up ahead, I heard what sounded like thunder and as a I came out of the gorge I was taken aback in complete awe. A vertical waterfall at least 100 feet high emptied into this big deep pool. Spray from the fall was reaching me at least a 100 feet away. Pretty damn awesome. I changed flies to a size 12 march brown and approached the pool slowly and began casting the fly into the exits with no luck. I picked up a rainbow from the center and as I was bringing him in something big attacked him. Time to change flies I say…. I put on a big screaming yellow/black wooly-bugger and double-hauled it across the pool and started stripping it back in like there was no tomorrow. Cast and retrieve. I casted and retrieved countless times with no luck. I changed flies to a wally-melon (an aborted wooly-bugger to the inanely curious) and had a resounding strike on the first cast. Big fish, a real big fish. About five minutes later as I released the two-foot or so brownie, I lit another cigarette that was far more satisfying. –walt   4-14-98

walt, wake up…… WAKE UP WALT!!

Response:

Question:

Hello fisherman: I have a fresh water fishing bulletin board for posting any fresh water info you would like… my web site is FISHING… stop in, post some info at: http://www.clearlight.com/~tyrone… info welcome from any where in the world…. fly fishing also… fresh or saltwater..

Response:

Hello fisherman: I have a fresh water fishing bulletin board for posting any fresh water info you would like… my web site is FISHING… stop in, post some info at: http://www.clearlight.com/~tyrone… info welcome from any where in the world…. fly fishing also… fresh or saltwater..

I DID CHECK IT OUT.  NOTHING THRILLING!

Response:

Fish Location, Log, and Map Analysis Program. Helps locate fish and suggests places and baits. Add maps to your fishing log/diary! Log contains:   Fish type,                 Where caught ( Map to use )                 Time and date                 Temp. air and water at depth caught                 Weather front information                 Sky conditions                 Bait and Presentation                 Caught by                 Weight, Length, Girth                 Water clarity                 Water current                 Barometric readings Reports can sort and analyze all the above.  Reports can group, up to three, categories of the above in any combination. See data for all fish caught grouped by the lunar cycle caught, what the weather front information was, and the barometric conditions at the time! Plus hundreds more, all to your specs. Using your history, Fish Traker can look at any map entered into Fish Traker and show you where to look by matching your past history conditions and the time you intend to go out! Analyze maps by your successes not someone’s guesses. Great for tournament fishing! All maps and reports print to any graphics printer. FREE demo available by going to GO TO in the main menu and select Search Software Libraries.   Use ‘fishlite’ for the search key and select Search.  Down load the latest version.  Windows ‘95 and NT users do not need the WIN32s supporting DLLs.   The production release contains the WIN32s DLLs needed to run if you do need them or just Search for WIN32s in the Search function and download that also.  Unzip or copy the data to a disk and install Fish Traker from diskette. $29.95 + $2 S/H   Check/MO/ MasterCard/Visa accepted GB Software MS 1 Box 125 Oxford Junction, IA 52323 (319) 486 2277

Response:

Question:

Will be in West Yellowstone mid July for about 5 days.  Want to fish a couple of days in the Park.  Any suggestions for areas to hike in 2-3 miles to escape the crowds?  Fly selection?  Current conditions? Thanks.  J. Rice

Response:

Will be in West Yellowstone mid July for about 5 days.  Want to fish a couple of days in the Park.  Any suggestions for areas to hike in 2-3 miles to escape the crowds?  Fly selection?  Current conditions? Thanks.  J. Rice

Hi J.Rice A quick call to Bob Jacklin’s Fly Shop will get you up-to-the second information (406-646-7336).  The water conditions are changing so rapidly you need very current conditions.  A storm in the park can change everything overnight. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

Question:

I’m in the market for a good 5 wt. rod and have looked at the GLoomis GL3 and IMX models.  I have not had an opportunity to cast either yet, but was wondering if people thought the IMX was worth the extra bucks. I can pick up a GL3 for $CDN 265 and the IMX for $CDN 395.  What are your thoughts? Paul Keywords:

We’d buy the GL3 for your first (good) rod. It’s tougher, it won’t cast as well but it will certainly send a 90 foot line. The IMX is more expensive and I enjoy the extra punch but I’m not sure you will notice a big difference if you havent done a lot of casting. Dennis & Geroge Altantic Fly Fishing School Brookfield NS, Canada   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I’m in the market for a good 5 wt. rod and have looked at the GLoomis GL3 and IMX models.  I have not had an opportunity to cast either yet, but was wondering if people thought the IMX was worth the extra bucks. I can pick up a GL3 for $CDN 265 and the IMX for $CDN 395.  What are your thoughts? Paul Keywords:

Response:

Paul, Don’t buy without casting the rod.  And if you cast both and cannot tell the difference, well. . . .   Phone the Loomis Rep and ask how you can try out the rods.  S/he should be happy to oblige.  BTW, if you want to spend money, take a look at T&T or a Scott rod. Cheers – Erik

: I’m in the market for a good 5 wt. rod and have looked at : the GLoomis GL3 and IMX models.  I have not had an opportunity : to cast either yet, but was wondering if people thought the : IMX was worth the extra bucks. I can pick up a GL3 for $CDN 265 : and the IMX for $CDN 395.  What are your thoughts? : Paul : Keywords: — Burnaby, BC

Response:

Question:

I will be in yosemite along the merced river  sept 13 for 10 days and would appreciate any advice on that or other nearby rivers: eg, patterns, line weight, good areas, guides, weather conditions, etc, etc.  please email me and thanks for the help.   daved

Response:

writes: I will be in yosemite along the merced river  sept 13 for 10 days and would appreciate any advice on that or other nearby rivers: eg, patterns, line weight, good areas, guides, weather conditions, etc, etc.  please email me and thanks for the help.   daved

I’ve never fished it, but "California Fly Fisher" magazine had a short article in their July-Aug ‘93 issue on the Merced.  Call them at (415)621-3117, maybe they can send you a back issue.  They said the better fishing for wild trout is outside the park.  Good luck, Bill Uyeki

Response: