Question:
I am traveling to Olympia to celebrate a friends birthday. Is there anything happening this time of year close to town. He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows. I was just wondering if I should bother flying with all the gear to fish a morning there. Thanks.
Response:
I am traveling to Olympia to celebrate a friends birthday. Is there anything happening this time of year close to town. He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows. I was just wondering if I should bother flying with all the gear to fish a morning there. Thanks.
I don’t know a darn thing about Washington fishing but I do know it is better to bring some gear and not need it than to not bring the gear and then find out you could use it. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas
Response:
Walt, I do not know anything about the Deschutes near Olympia, but do know they do have about 2 or 3 rivers that are good for steelhead fishing within an hour so South of Olympia. Bring the gear! Luckyboy
I am traveling to Olympia to celebrate a friends birthday. Is there anything happening this time of year close to town. He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows. I was just wondering if I should bother flying with all the gear to fish a morning there. Thanks.
<snipped Wayne’s reply – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas
Response:
<among other things I don’t know a darn thing about Washington fishing but I do know it is better to bring some gear and not need it than to not bring the gear and then find out you could use it.
That explains all that gear you brought to Kansas, eh?
Response:
Its been about 10years since I fished the Deschutes near the brewery in Olympia (my sister-in-law used to live in Lacey and I fished the river whenever we visited) so I don’t know the current situation. However, it used to be decent fishing thru the golf course for searun cuts, the occaisonal steelhead and I even once caught a silver. Its a fairly small stream and definately urban conditions, but it beats sitting around with inlaws. Bob Weinberger
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am traveling to Olympia to celebrate a friends birthday. Is there anything happening this time of year close to town. He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows. I was just wondering if I should bother flying with all the gear to fish a morning there. Thanks.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just got off the phone with a fly shop in town that reported decent fishing for cutts in the Deschutes with some fish being taken on dries when the sun comes out. I am definately bringing the gear. Besides, fly fishing is the best cure I know after a long night with an old friend and some single malt. Thanks for convincing me. Walt (who is easily convinced)
Response:
I am traveling to Olympia to celebrate a friends birthday. Is there anything happening this time of year close to town. He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows. I was just wondering if I should bother flying with all the gear to fish a morning there. Thanks.
you might want to think about fishing the saltwater that surrounds the area. there should be some sea-run cutts around, and even some resident silver salmon (especially north around tacoma). chris
Response:
He mentioned that there is a small river called the Deschutes (not to be confused with the more famous Oregon river), that has some cutts and rainbows.
Walt, Here’s a webpage that’ll help out for the regs for the Deschutes River in Washington state: http://www.wa.gov/wdfw/fish/regs/fishregs.htm Sorry I can’t be of more help. I’ve never been down that way to cast a line. If you do fish, I’d love to read a report! Fish on, my friend. Danny McMillin — Danny McMillin — Remove XX from email address to reduce spam.
Response:
That explains all that gear you brought to Kansas, eh?
Naw all the gear I took to Kansas is my personal crusade to ensure full employment for the makers of fine fly rods and reels as well as the dealers who sell them. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas
Response:
Question:
You don’t need much heat at all on the finished blank, so a hair dryer just might do it. An alcohol lamp might introduce burn marks. Steam from a kettle works but takes a long, long time.
Would a miniature version of wood benders’ steam tunnel, say made of a stick of PVC, work? It seems it could be built from stuff at Home Depot/Lowe’s and Dollar General/Walmart for 10-15.00. HTH? R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —Steve Before heat guns didn’t they use alcohol lamps?…… blow dryer’d probly take pretty long…..john ….(3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section,… Just curious Steve, how much heat do you need for this step?. Would a blow dryer be sufficient?
Response:
PVC is a thermoplastic. If you heat it up it will deform. If you want to do something like this use steel or copper pipe. Although not all that much heat is required for straightening bamboo, a hair dryer is not usually powerful enough. The heat guns originally mentioned are best for this purpose. They are available cheaply at DIY markets etc. They are commonly used for stripping paint, welding plastics etc. Try the gun on its lowest heat setting on some scrap bamboo before attempting to straighten any rods with it. The guns produce more than sufficient heat to scorch the bamboo. The guns are also advantageous, as you can straighten a fairly small section relatively easily, and the heat is only applied to this section. A pipe oven will of course apply heat to everything in it. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de
Response:
Would a miniature version of wood benders’ steam tunnel, say made of a stick of PVC, work? It seems it could be built from stuff at Home Depot/Lowe’s and Dollar General/Walmart for 10-15.00.
Yeah, but then a heat gun is only $25.00 and has a host of other uses. –Steve
Response:
….(3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section,…
Just curious Steve, how much heat do you need for this step?. Would a blow dryer be sufficient?
Response:
Not certain what other info I can give, however; the guides on both tips are snake eyes and not rings. The thread wrappings are tan center with a small strip of black on either end. The hook keeper is on of those loose rings, kind of like a mini-keychain ring the tip on the longest is a simple, but common, tip, much like the tips on some production rods. the tip on the shortest is larger, and has a reddish ring insert (plastic?), it certainly looks like something that would have gone on a spinning rod but there are snake eyes on the same tip.
This doesn’t sound like a combo to me, and it sounds "un-Japanese" for some reason…maybe the color combo? All of the snake eyes that survived are black with age and neglect.
What color are the ferrules? Are you sure the aren’t meant to be black, i.e., are the "black" but smooth, or are they obviously "black with age"? All of the ferrules have remmenents of what appears to be a age yellowed lacquer there is a metal winding check at the top of the handle that matches smoothly into the taper of the handle that is yellowed with lacquer as well, it almost looks gold.
Again, it just sounds "un-Japanese"…. There is no writing anywhere and nothing that looks like it ever might have been the location of a decal or such.
I have some well-known maker rods (early) with no markings except for reel hardware and "turnings" on metal parts, if that helps… I didn’t expect to find the missing Sages or an abandoned Orvis etc. The value, while nice to know, isn’t going to change my intention, I’ll still throw some new snake eyes on it, spruce it up a bit and try it out. My interest in getting an old bamboo was just to have something to fool around with since I didn’t buy a blank from he who I probably shouldn’t mention or anyone else in the bamboo business (it’s way too pricey for this thrifty Main-ah)
There are no missing Sage bamboos (that was a joke), but there are rods, completed and incomplete/uncompleted, by many fine makers out there undiscovered, and I’d not tamper with it until you have a better idea of what you have. thanks for the info, if I can get my hands on a digital camera I’ll see if I can get some pics to post somplace for a fuller appraisal. Flyfish
HTH? R
Response:
Before heat guns didn’t they use alcohol lamps?…… blow dryer’d probly take pretty long…..john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….(3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section,… Just curious Steve, how much heat do you need for this step?. Would a blow dryer be sufficient?
Response:
I thought the alcohol lamps were for putting the tip on and getting rid of any fluff or loose ends on the wraps. Flyfish
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Before heat guns didn’t they use alcohol lamps?…… blow dryer’d probly take pretty long…..john ….(3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section,… Just curious Steve, how much heat do you need for this step?. Would a blow dryer be sufficient?
Response:
You don’t need much heat at all on the finished blank, so a hair dryer just might do it. An alcohol lamp might introduce burn marks. Steam from a kettle works but takes a long, long time. –Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Before heat guns didn’t they use alcohol lamps?…… blow dryer’d probly take pretty long…..john ….(3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section,… Just curious Steve, how much heat do you need for this step?. Would a blow dryer be sufficient?
Response:
I went out to ebay, at the suggestion of someone else, and found some similar rods, but then I found a photo of a Horrocks-Ibbotson that was a dead ringer for the reel seat and handle up through the winding check. I’m assuming that I’ve identified the rod make and will proceed with my intentions to restore it. I took a copy of the photo and have posted it here http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout/0413rod2.gif it’s a pretty small picture but it worked. my handle isn’t anywhere near as clean but this is the same thing as mine Flyfish
Response:
The grampus rod that I had no box, just a cloth bag. It had the metal cap. The Grampus logo was a decal.
Response:
Didn’t get a box, I did get a very worn rod bag with a hole in it. The reel seat sounds the same. Will have to check out the book. Flyfish
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Grampus rods almost always come with a flat holding box.Noone ever throws the box away because the box is the best part of the outfit.Check out Keanes book for a possible identification.Early Granger rods had sliding metal band reel seats.The bottom of the reel held in a fixed cap on the butt of the rod.Have fun with your project rod.For what you paid for it you can’t lose. Regards,Shawn
Response:
<Description snipped This doesn’t sound like a cheapo Japanese combo rod to me, from the colors (the ones I’ve seen are red, green, etc. "bright"), to the described workmanship, to reel seat and metal parts description and the tips. I claim no expertise, but simply based on the desciption, I’d bet you have something on which you need to get an "eyeball" assessment. It sounds like you may not have the Holy Grail, but you don’t have an old Dixie cup either… HTH? R
Response:
Grampus rods almost always come with a flat holding box.Noone ever throws the box away because the box is the best part of the outfit.Check out Keanes book for a possible identification.Early Granger rods had sliding metal band reel seats.The bottom of the reel held in a fixed cap on the butt of the rod.Have fun with your project rod.For what you paid for it you can’t lose. Regards,Shawn
Response:
Pick up the book Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook by Michael Sinclair, it will help you with restoration and identifying the rod. krombear how come it does’nt take fish twelve years to get an education
Response:
What color are the ferrules? Are you sure the aren’t meant to be black, i.e., are the "black" but smooth, or are they obviously "black with age"?
the ferrules are a silvery metal color, tarnished here and there but very functional. where they join the blank they are fluted and have two grooves just above the fluting as a sort of decoration. they were at one time varnished/lacquered over and have some left on, quite yellowed with age, on the part closest to the blank. there is a small dot above the grooves, away from the blank, that looks like a hole had been drilled into the ferrule and filled with solder or a small nail etc. had been driven in and then cut flush. The snake eyes are black, I assumed they had aged to that color I can also see some rust on them. the butt section has one snake eye, and appears to be missing the stripping guide, if it ever had one, I’m not certain there every was one. Where I would expect to find it, I see what may have been a decorative wrap instead, with two tans 1/4" or so from a larger black wrap in the center. Above the hook keeper is another set of decorative wraps a small tan, 1/4" of blank, then small black, anout 1/2" of tan, with small black and finally 1/4′ of blank to another small tan wrap. The middle section has no eyes left at all, but I can see where they were. The both tips appear to be intact and each has two snake eyes on it. On all sections halfway between each guide is a small section of tan wraps, about 4-6 turns, basically splitting the distance as the rod tapers to the tip sections. The two tip sections appear to have the same taper and the wrap mentioned above is in the same place on each, although on the shorter one it’s no longer centered, it’s just below the tip section. This lends me to believe that it in fact was broken off at some point and this larger, cruder tip is a repair. This tip in fact looks to be slightly too large for the blank at that point and there is some discoloration on the blank at the bottom of it that looks like some slight overheating when the ferrule cement was applied. While the varinish on the wraps is all shot, and the wraps are loose and rotting, the finish of the rod is still very nice. it’s not peeling or flaking away anywhere and is intact along the entire length of the blank. It also looks like some base coloration was applied along with the finish, I can see what appear to be brush marks in the color on the blank. there are some dust motes in the finish and a few small chips but overall it looks as good, if not better than my regular working 5wt graphite. Looking again at the metal winding check at the top of the handle, it’s tapered from the handle down to the blank and it has two pairs of grooves turned into it, similar to those in the ferrules. It’s finished in a varnish or lacquer that has either yellowed with age or was colored to make this piece look gold. The actual reel seat is a friction type, not threaded, and appears to be aluminum but could be something else I suppose, the butt cap actually reminds me of my strubel nickel silver. Down where the wear on the reel seat isn’t so pronounced the tarnish is reminiscent of my old hand me down silver tea set, it has that dark tarnish look to it, but if it was a silvered reel seat most of it has worn off. There are a couple of small cracks in it, one where the reel seats into the buttcap and the other on the main metal part. The friction ring might not be aluminum as I tend to doubt it would have survived given some of the other wear I see on the rod. Aluminum would tend to be fairly soft would it not? The cork is moderately pourus but was shaped with care and it very regular in shape and sizing. It’s a basic cigar shaped handle. The blank itself is almost perfectly straight, each of the tip sections have very minor ‘bends’ but I’ve seen (lately as a matter of fact) Orvis graphites that were far worse. I doubt that I’ll bother trying to straighten these out. I have some well-known maker rods (early) with no markings except for reel hardware and "turnings" on metal parts, if that helps…
Well I’ve gotta say that this rod has been more interesting to me in the day I’ve had it, than most of what I’ve been doing lately. Thanks for all the pointers for parts etc. and I’m off to look at what rec and snakeeye have to offer. Flyfish
Response:
Not certain what other info I can give, however; the guides on both tips are snake eyes and not rings. The thread wrappings are tan center with a small strip of black on either end. The hook keeper is on of those loose rings, kind of like a mini-keychain ring the tip on the longest is a simple, but common, tip, much like the tips on some production rods. the tip on the shortest is larger, and has a reddish ring insert (plastic?), it certainly looks like something that would have gone on a spinning rod but there are snake eyes on the same tip. All of the snake eyes that survived are black with age and neglect. All of the ferrules have remmenents of what appears to be a age yellowed lacquer there is a metal winding check at the top of the handle that matches smoothly into the taper of the handle that is yellowed with lacquer as well, it almost looks gold. There is no writing anywhere and nothing that looks like it ever might have been the location of a decal or such. I didn’t expect to find the missing Sages or an abandoned Orvis etc. The value, while nice to know, isn’t going to change my intention, I’ll still throw some new snake eyes on it, spruce it up a bit and try it out. My interest in getting an old bamboo was just to have something to fool around with since I didn’t buy a blank from he who I probably shouldn’t mention or anyone else in the bamboo business (it’s way too pricey for this thrifty Main-ah) thanks for the info, if I can get my hands on a digital camera I’ll see if I can get some pics to post somplace for a fuller appraisal. Flyfish
Response:
My vote is go for it. Who cares about the manufacturer info if this is the first rod you’ve ever restored? For best results you’ll want to (1) remove all of the guides, (2) sand the varnish from the blank, (3) use a heat gun to retemper and straighten each section, (4) revarnish the blank and then (5) re-wrap and varnish the guides (some people do those last two steps in opposite order–either way works fine). I recommend replacing all of the guides and tiptops with black nickel Snake Brand guides–check out http://www.snakeguides.com. You’ll want to use size 00 or smaller silk thread for the wraps. Email me if you need help trying to find matching thread–otherwise any color would do–I’ll even let you borrow a spool if you’re not picky. If you want to replace the reel seat and cork, that’s a bit more difficult but can certainly be done by carefully cutting away the existing grip and using heat to break down the glue that holds the reel seat on. REC components (www.reccomponents.com) has those items at a decent price. You didn’t say how long the rod is, but I’m guessing it’s a 9-foot 7- or 8-weight rod. Probably quite heavy. Yet another option is to convert the 3-piece into a two-piece midge rod by attaching a new reel seat and small grip to the butt of the middle piece. Whether or not that configuration would cast well depends on the taper of the rod. –Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I didn’t expect to find the missing Sages or an abandoned Orvis etc. The value, while nice to know, isn’t going to change my intention, I’ll still throw some new snake eyes on it, spruce it up a bit and try it out. My interest in getting an old bamboo was just to have something to fool around with since I didn’t buy a blank from he who I probably shouldn’t mention or anyone else in the bamboo business (it’s way too pricey for this thrifty Main-ah)
Response:
I stumbled on it in a flea market. Intesting piece. 3 piece rod, with two tips (4 pieces in all). The threads are all rotten and most of the guides are missing but all the ferrules are in perfect working order. one of the tips is 3" shorter than the other, and has a fairly crude tip making me believe it was broken once. The reel seat is aluminum, and isn’t threaded but just slides down to hold the reel in place. All of the sections are pretty straight and there are no big chips or other signs of damage. no name, no writing, no nothing to identify it but for $35 I got to fulfill my wish to restore an old bamboo rod. It is my intent to restore it to immaculate condition and go forth and catch fish on it. Deciding the line weight will be interesting, any good ideas for how to proceed with that? Pointers to any web sites that might have some tips on cleaning it up etc.? thanks Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more http://members.xoom.com/lokiskinder JG13 A proud Red Baron 2 squadron
Response:
The rod you describe sounds like one of the post-WWII Japanese import kits. The second tip was not broken. Rather, it was an attempt to provide a spinning rod tip to go with the fly rod tip. These rods are ubiquitous. They were of fair quality and probably not worth more than $50.00 even if it were in good condition. Unless you just want to screw around with restoration techniques, I doubt that it is worth the time and money you’d have to put in to it in order to do a restoration. — Randall S. Davis
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I stumbled on it in a flea market. Intesting piece. 3 piece rod, with two tips (4 pieces in all). The threads are all rotten and most of the guides are missing but all the ferrules are in perfect working order. one of the tips is 3" shorter than the other, and has a fairly crude tip making me believe it was broken once. The reel seat is aluminum, and isn’t threaded but just slides down to hold the reel in place. All of the sections are pretty straight and there are no big chips or other signs of damage. no name, no writing, no nothing to identify it but for $35 I got to fulfill my wish to restore an old bamboo rod. It is my intent to restore it to immaculate condition and go forth and catch fish on it. Deciding the line weight will be interesting, any good ideas for how to proceed with that? Pointers to any web sites that might have some tips on cleaning it up etc.? thanks Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more http://members.xoom.com/lokiskinder JG13 A proud Red Baron 2 squadron
Response:
Geez…….I bet you’re one of those guys that, when your friend drops by with his brand new car all excited, you pull out your consumer reports and start bashing it! Bottom line is, it is difficult at best to find a bamboo rod that does not have serious damage for as little as $35 these days.
Contraire, the man spoketh the truth and gave the original gentleman very sage advice and history…. Wayne
Response:
I have seen a convertible bamboo rod. I found it in a dumpster. It was a Grampus, came in 4 or 5 sections, and the grip was reversable, so you could use it as a spinning rod or a fly rod. It was in excellent condition and was valued at $50 to $75. It was a pretty heavy rod. I gave it to a friend who wanted it. I’m tempted to defer to the resident "gearhead" but two tips, one 3" inches shorter, doesn’t seem to indicate a "combo" rod. Have you seen such a thing? Thanks, R
Response:
Geez…….I bet you’re one of those guys that, when your friend drops by with his brand new car all excited, you pull out your consumer reports and start bashing it! Bottom line is, it is difficult at best to find a bamboo rod that does not have serious damage for as little as $35 these days. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The rod you describe sounds like one of the post-WWII Japanese import kits. The second tip was not broken. Rather, it was an attempt to provide a spinning rod tip to go with the fly rod tip. These rods are ubiquitous. They were of fair quality and probably not worth more than $50.00 even if it were in good condition. Unless you just want to screw around with restoration techniques, I doubt that it is worth the time and money you’d have to put in to it in order to do a restoration. — Randall S. Davis I stumbled on it in a flea market. Intesting piece. 3 piece rod, with two tips (4 pieces in all). The threads are all rotten and most of the guides are missing but all the ferrules are in perfect working order. one of the tips is 3" shorter than the other, and has a fairly crude tip making me believe it was broken once. The reel seat is aluminum, and isn’t threaded but just slides down to hold the reel in place. All of the sections are pretty straight and there are no big chips or other signs of damage. no name, no writing, no nothing to identify it but for $35 I got to fulfill my wish to restore an old bamboo rod. It is my intent to restore it to immaculate condition and go forth and catch fish on it. Deciding the line weight will be interesting, any good ideas for how to proceed with that? Pointers to any web sites that might have some tips on cleaning it up etc.? thanks Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more http://members.xoom.com/lokiskinder JG13 A proud Red Baron 2 squadron
Response:
Geez…….I bet you’re one of those guys that, when your friend drops by with his brand new car all excited, you pull out your consumer reports and start bashing it! Bottom line is, it is difficult at best to find a bamboo rod that does not have serious damage for as little as $35 these days.
Well, if it is such a Japanese rod, I have seen them at antique malls in new condition for around 50.00 to 75.00, HOWEVER, many old rods aren’t as readily marked as newer ones, and without further info, it would seem difficult to classify the rod described. If the original poster would post more info, maybe ROFF could help determine exactly what it is. Simply being bamboo does not mean good, but simply being not readily attributed by a novice to a specific maker does not mean "Japanese." Further, I am personally aware that many experts disagree about what was or was not offered or made by many fine makers. I would advise never dismissing a rod as "junk" or accepting a rod as "collectable" based on any unseen "guess" or even one single "eyeball" opinion. I wouldn’t think a 3" difference, with a seeming "break" would indicate a combo rod, but….? HTH? R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The rod you describe sounds like one of the post-WWII Japanese import kits. The second tip was not broken. Rather, it was an attempt to provide a spinning rod tip to go with the fly rod tip. These rods are ubiquitous. They were of fair quality and probably not worth more than $50.00 even if it were in good condition. Unless you just want to screw around with restoration techniques, I doubt that it is worth the time and money you’d have to put in to it in order to do a restoration. — Randall S. Davis I stumbled on it in a flea market. Intesting piece. 3 piece rod, with two tips (4 pieces in all). The threads are all rotten and most of the guides are missing but all the ferrules are in perfect working order. one of the tips is 3" shorter than the other, and has a fairly crude tip making me believe it was broken once. The reel seat is aluminum, and isn’t threaded but just slides down to hold the reel in place. All of the sections are pretty straight and there are no big chips or other signs of damage. no name, no writing, no nothing to identify it but for $35 I got to fulfill my wish to restore an old bamboo rod. It is my intent to restore it to immaculate condition and go forth and catch fish on it. Deciding the line weight will be interesting, any good ideas for how to proceed with that? Pointers to any web sites that might have some tips on cleaning it up etc.? thanks Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more http://members.xoom.com/lokiskinder JG13 A proud Red Baron 2 squadron
Response:
Geez…….I bet you’re one of those guys that, when your friend drops by with his brand new car all excited, you pull out your consumer reports and start bashing it! Bottom line is, it is difficult at best to find a bamboo rod that does not have serious damage for as little as $35 these days. Contraire, the man spoketh the truth and gave the original gentleman very sage advice and history…. Wayne
I’m tempted to defer to the resident "gearhead" but two tips, one 3" inches shorter, doesn’t seem to indicate a "combo" rod. Have you seen such a thing? Thanks, R
Response:
I saw one of the Japanese Combo’s once. A fellow I worked with said his grandfather had it made for him while in Japan just after the war (1950?). His setup came with separate sections for Fly and Spinner. The fly guides were snake, but the spinner guides were the eye-ring type, for lack of better term. Came in a wooden case. Still had original lures in packs marked with Japanese writing. Opie
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Geez…….I bet you’re one of those guys that, when your friend drops by with his brand new car all excited, you pull out your consumer reports and start bashing it! Bottom line is, it is difficult at best to find a bamboo rod that does not have serious damage for as little as $35 these days. Well, if it is such a Japanese rod, I have seen them at antique malls in new condition for around 50.00 to 75.00, HOWEVER, many old rods aren’t as readily marked as newer ones, and without further info, it would seem difficult to classify the rod described. If the original poster would post more info, maybe ROFF could help determine exactly what it is. Simply being bamboo does not mean good, but simply being not readily attributed by a novice to a specific maker does not mean "Japanese." Further, I am personally aware that many experts disagree about what was or was not offered or made by many fine makers. I would advise never dismissing a rod as "junk" or accepting a rod as "collectable" based on any unseen "guess" or even one single "eyeball" opinion. I wouldn’t think a 3" difference, with a seeming "break" would indicate a combo rod, but….? HTH? R The rod you describe sounds like one of the post-WWII Japanese import kits. The second tip was not broken. Rather, it was an attempt to provide a spinning rod tip to go with the fly rod tip. These rods are ubiquitous. They were of fair quality and probably not worth more than $50.00 even if it were in good condition. Unless you just want to screw around with restoration techniques, I doubt that it is worth the time and money you’d have to put in to it in order to do a restoration. — Randall S. Davis I stumbled on it in a flea market. Intesting piece. 3 piece rod, with two tips (4 pieces in all). The threads are all rotten and most of the guides are missing but all the ferrules are in perfect working order. one of the tips is 3" shorter than the other, and has a fairly crude tip making me believe it was broken once. The reel seat is aluminum, and isn’t threaded but just slides down to hold the reel in place. All of the sections are pretty straight and there are no big chips or other signs of damage. no name, no writing, no nothing to identify it but for $35 I got to fulfill my wish to restore an old bamboo rod. It is my intent to restore it to immaculate condition and go forth and catch fish on it. Deciding the line weight will be interesting, any good ideas for how to proceed with that? Pointers to any web sites that might have some tips on cleaning it up etc.? thanks Flyfish — dave’s homepage madness http://www.ctel.net/~brooktrout flyfishing in Maine and more http://members.xoom.com/lokiskinder JG13 A proud Red Baron 2 squadron
Response:
Question:
I may be in the Minneapolis area for a few days some time this fall. Any recommendations for fly fishing within three or four hours of Minneapolis (trout, bass, whatever, as long as it takes a fly)? If I have a choice, what would be the best time to go? Email or post is fine. Thanks in advance. Bill S.
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I may be in the Minneapolis area for a few days some time this fall. Any recommendations for fly fishing within three or four hours of Minneapolis (trout, bass, whatever, as long as it takes a fly)? If I have a choice, what would be the best time to go? Email or post is fine. Thanks in advance. Bill S.
Bill, A good time to come! If you come before the season closes (Sept. 30th) You have your choice of thousands of "Spots". I’d recommend the Whitewater River Watershed south of Minneapolis, between Rochester and Winona. Stop at the State Park there and ask the naturalists for advise, or at the fly shops in Rochester ("Burger Brothers" for expl) Wisconsin has an overwhelming number of rivers to choose from also. When you buy the WI liscense, you get fabulous pamphlets for directions. I wish MN was as good. They have materials, but they don’t hand them out with the ticket. I live in Duluth, and fall is great for Brookies all over the place. I can catch ‘em right in town, But I like the drive to "Get away" and find some solitude. My favorite is the Brule River in WI. (Boise Brule, officially). It is an honest, naturally reproductive, trout stream. Late Sept. is closing there too. Finally, if your visit is after Sept. 30th, come to Duluth. Steelhead will be running up from Lake Superior. Fall Salmon too. Give me an E-mail if you feel like driving north, I can point out some spots on the map for you. Have fun! Jim Wrobleski
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I may be in the Minneapolis area for a few days some time this fall. Any recommendations for fly fishing within three or four hours of Minneapolis (trout, bass, whatever, as long as it takes a fly)? If I have a choice, what would be the best time to go? Email or post is fine. Thanks in advance. Bill S. Bill, A good time to come! If you come before the season closes (Sept. 30th) You have your choice of thousands of "Spots". I’d recommend the Whitewater River Watershed south of Minneapolis, between Rochester and Winona. Stop at the State Park there and ask the naturalists for advise, or at the fly shops in Rochester ("Burger Brothers" for expl) Wisconsin has an overwhelming number of rivers to choose from also. When you buy the WI liscense, you get fabulous pamphlets for directions. I wish MN was as good. They have materials, but they don’t hand them out with the ticket. I live in Duluth, and fall is great for Brookies all over the place. I can catch ‘em right in town, But I like the drive to "Get away" and find some solitude. My favorite is the Brule River in WI. (Boise Brule, officially). It is an honest, naturally reproductive, trout stream. Late Sept. is closing there too. Finally, if your visit is after Sept. 30th, come to Duluth. Steelhead will be running up from Lake Superior. Fall Salmon too. Give me an E-mail if you feel like driving north, I can point out some spots on the map for you. Have fun! Jim Wrobleski
Good info Jim, I would add the Namakogen (sp?) in Northwest WI. Vince
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I may be in the Minneapolis area for a few days some time this fall. Any recommendations for fly fishing within three or four hours of Minneapolis (trout, bass, whatever, as long as it takes a fly)? If I have a choice, what would be the best time to go? Email or post is fine. Thanks in advance. Bill S.
I would recommend that you contact Dennis Graupe at the Spring Creek Angler in Coon Valley WI. (608-452-3430). Tell him that John Myers sent you. Note that the WI season closes 9/30/96. j.m.
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