Question:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer?

I asked my optomitrist (sp?) exactly that and he said, "No." — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer? Ari Ari Bert 083 232 9903 Gaelle Bert 083 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner www.troutfishing.co.za +27 11 447 7230 Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt Street, Rosebank (Behind Std Bank)

Response:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer? Ari

if not you might want to try a pair w/ photochromatic lenses (they lighten and darken depending on the conditions).  i have a pair and they work great in the northwest, and we have our share of dark and gloomy days where the only reason for wearing glasses is because of that large fly tearing past our head <G. chris

Response:

From my experience in photography and applying some intuitive reasoning, a polarizing lens with no additional shading will be at a minimum around 50% gray.  This is so because the lens filters out light significantly outside the polarizing plane of the lens. I believe you can order prescription polarized lenses with no additional tint.  At least you used to be able to because I have a pair (with glass lenses) that I bought 20 years ago. Ken (to reply via email remove "zz" from address)

Response:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer?

I use amber colored lenses.  Don’t know how much light they actually block but it must be considerably less than the other colors as they give the illusion of brightening while cutting down on glare….at least in strong light.  At dusk the true darkening effect is more noticeable, but still less than darker colors.

Response:

Quite by chance I discovered a very interesting little trick.  I use the clip-on/flip-up type of polarised lenses, and these are often only available in either amber or green, and are quite heavily tinted.  I use the amber ones usually, as the contrast is better. I have several pairs, as I like them for driving etc as well as fishing.  I left a pair of these lying on the dashboard of my car for several weeks, with the back of the lenses uppermost, and when I came to use them again, I discovered that the dark tint had more or less disappeared, but the polarising effect had not. Apparently the strong sunlight had bleached the colour out, without damaging the polarising properties.  I have now done this purposely with several sets, and one can reduce the tint quite considerably, in fact a couple of sets are almost clear, but still polarise. This is very useful indeed, especially in dark weather, or in the evening, when the normal lenses block too much light. Might be worth a try for anyone wishing to reduce the tint in such lenses. The lenses are plastic by the way. TL MC — "In order to know what is possible one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer? I use amber colored lenses.  Don’t know how much light they actually block but it must be considerably less than the other colors as they give the illusion of brightening while cutting down on glare….at least in strong light.  At dusk the true darkening effect is more noticeable, but still less than darker colors.

Response:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer?

I don’t know if you’ll find this helpful or not, but I personally can’t stomach sunglasses over $100.  I bought a pair from Stren (www.basspro.com maybe?) that cost around $35 and come with 2 interchangeable polarized lenses.  The tan/amber color are much better in lower light conditions than the gray color. Regards, Jeff

Response:

I’m not sure i understand very well what you say Ken, (I’m french and sometime i misinterpret some things) so if i say the same thing as you in different words please pardon me. But my background is also in photography. Polarizing glass can be completely clear with no tint at all! But nonetheless there will be an impression of shading because of the re-orientation of the light rays, but the effect won’t be exactly like shading, it’s more like more intense color. Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Are there such things as clear polarised glasses. All the ones I’ve seen are tinted which defeats the purpose on a darkish day. Or can you get you existing perscription glasses coated with a polarizing layer?

As others have point out, the maximu theoretical transmission of a polarizing film for unpolarized light is 50%. That is because the component of the wrong polarization, approximately 50% of the light present has to be absorbe. Polaroid Corporation, and presumably other film suppliers make several different kinds of polarizers for different puposes. The maximum real transmission possible is about 35%. Sunglass manufacturers use what they think will sell. Several years ago, I was able to find some clipons that were about 35% transmissive at the local 99

Question:

I’m planning a familiy trip down to Islamorada this summer. Since I’m on a budget I can unfortunately only afford to hire a guide for one day. How good are the opportunities for doing some solo wade-flyfishing in the Islamorada area. Too vast and crowded? Tips are appreciated, Tor Larsen

Response:

Spme State Parks w/ood access South of there

Response:

Rook2, I was there last year and had a fine time fishing from the road side. If you head on out towards Key West not very far from Islamorada there’s a number road side areas you can fish where the boat cuts come close to shore. I pulled two fine bone fish out this way. Good luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Spme State Parks w/ood access South of there

Response:

Question:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by     the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially     those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners     etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,     and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.     Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to     rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems     to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,     and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will     prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick.

I hear Orvis has a GREAT floatant, you should try that. [Ducking],      - Ken — "Time is but the stream I go a-fishin in. I drink at it, but while I drink I see the sandy bottom and detect how shallow it is. It’s thin current slides away, but eternity remains."   – H.D. Thoreau

Response:

Other than Scotch Guard, the way you dress you pattern helps, meaning your hackle density, etc.  Variants of patterns such as a parachute or irresistable instead of a standard adams; CDC & Elk Hair vs a regular Elk hair caddis, etc..  Dress your flies to suit the water you will be fishing. A good dessicant can help, which is what I use when I can’t false cast. There is a brand of dessicant in a green translucent bottle called "Dry Shake" that dries off a fly quickly.  If you use that, and then hit it with your flotant of choice, its as good as starting with a fresh fly. I am going to mention it anyhow Vittorio, GG’s flotant really is good stuff. I used to use paste before switching.  It is worth the small investment of giving it a try.   Liquid floatants are better at getting into the details, which is the main reason I tried liquids, the liquids I tried didn’t work well enough until I used GG’s brand of flotant, no kidding. Good luck, let us know how your Scotch Guard soaking works.  I have found just spraying SG to be relatively useless. — Matt Blickensderfer * Piscaro itaque dicet mendacium *

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners    etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to    rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

Response:

Michael, I have tried the soaking in ScotchGuard trick. I found very little improvement on floatability. I soaked several flies in a container of Scotchguard for about a half hour then let them dry on a paper towel. I then took them and some flies I had not treated with Scotchguard fishing.  The flies soaked in Scotchguard floated only slightly longer than non-treated flies. To me it did not seem to be worth the extra effort and mess of soaking the flies in Scotchguard for what little extra floatability I got.The fliesI fished with floatant(Gink) floated just fine. I was experimenting with a parachute Adams. bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -0] : : I have seen people claim that soaking in ScotchGuard works, although I : haven’t tried it. They said to spray some in a 35mm film cannister and : shake the flies in there, as I recall. : — : Charlie… I have tried that and come to the conclusion that Scotchgaurd  has no noticable effecton the flotation or soakability of my dry flies. I currently use old GG’s product at streamside and find that it works as advertised. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971  a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491

Response:

vittorio asked for advise on fly floatants. Anyone who tries Scotchguard might be tempted to try Rain-X. Please don’t that crap stunk up the garage for about a week. Big Dale

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Other than Scotch Guard, the way you dress you pattern helps, meaning your hackle density, etc.  Variants of patterns such as a parachute or irresistable instead of a standard adams; CDC & Elk Hair vs a regular Elk hair caddis, etc..  Dress your flies to suit the water you will be fishing. A good dessicant can help, which is what I use when I can’t false cast. There is a brand of dessicant in a green translucent bottle called "Dry Shake" that dries off a fly quickly.  If you use that, and then hit it with your flotant of choice, its as good as starting with a fresh fly. I am going to mention it anyhow Vittorio, GG’s flotant really is good stuff. I used to use paste before switching.  It is worth the small investment of giving it a try.   Liquid floatants are better at getting into the details, which is the main reason I tried liquids, the liquids I tried didn’t work well enough until I used GG’s brand of flotant, no kidding. Good luck, let us know how your Scotch Guard soaking works.  I have found just spraying SG to be relatively useless. — Matt Blickensderfer * Piscaro itaque dicet mendacium * I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners    etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to    rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

3M marketed a floatant years ago (20 yrs, maybe) and from what I heard it was scotchguard – I think the trick is to spray flies 24 hrs b4 there use and then apply a floatant, Daves bug float or whatever. The post b4 mine from Mr Matt Blickensderfer about dressing flies is probably most important.  http://www.newsfeeds.com/       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

Response:

tried gink? — Nicholas J. Slodki http://trampled.net/Nikolai0/

:I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. :I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do :too much. :I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if :there are other products that could to the trick. : lease note the following: : :-my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are :ignored by :    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, :especially :    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly :spinners :    etc. etc. :- IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky :fish, :    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to :time. :    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are :forced to :    rollcast your dries ? :- a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use :seems :    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details f small flies, :    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, :that will :    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water : :Thanks : :-Vittorio : : :

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.

        in my twentysomething years of fishing for trout, i have found nothing that is as long lasting as gink. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks -Vittorio

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(Frogspritz) writes: Someone gave me the bottle to try.  Haven’t tried it yet, however, so who knows? Unfortunately, I don’t know where it could be for sale.

The stuff works, it really works if you follow the instructions. And it is becoming available in many fly shops. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

0]

: I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. : I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do : too much. : I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if : there are other products that could to the trick. : : I have seen people claim that soaking in ScotchGuard works, although I : haven’t tried it. They said to spray some in a 35mm film cannister and : shake the flies in there, as I recall. : — : Charlie… I have tried that and come to the conclusion that Scotchgaurd  has no noticable effecton the flotation or soakability of my dry flies. I currently use old GG’s product at streamside and find that it works as advertised. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.         in my twentysomething years of fishing for trout, i have found nothing that is as long lasting as gink.

Speaking of Gink, you’re suposed to put it on a dry fly (I mean on a fly that’s not wet). No doudt that’s best, but I sometimes slather it on a soaked fly and it still seems to work pretty well. I’ll dry the fly out as well as I can with a few false casts, but the fly is still pretty damp. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

<<I hear Orvis has a GREAT floatant, you should try that. And, Orvis sells a neat tub of dessicant (drying crystals).  Simply put you fly in the tub, close the lid, and shake a couple of times. Works wonderfully.  Then you wouldn’t need any of that sissy floatant stuff. Dave pushing Ken aside and also ducking.

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.

I have before me a little bottle of stuff called "Water Shed", which is called "permanent waterproofing liquid".  Instructions call for a drop to be added to the fly at least one day before the fly touches the water for the first time. "It will not effect color, softness and is odorless after 24 hour cure period" says the label. Someone gave me the bottle to try.  Haven’t tried it yet, however, so who knows? Unfortunately, I don’t know where it could be for sale. Mark Faulkner

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick.

"Watershed" permanent waterproofing liquid is recommended by and available from Feather-Craft Fly Fishing of St.Louis. http://www.flyfishamerica.com/Ads/National/FeatherCraft98JF.html I have no connection with Feather_Craft other than satisfied customer. — Ken Fortenberry

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Question:

______ The prettiest Western Dry Fly in all the world.  I don’t know about Eastern opinions on this but  I suppose it would have to be the Light Cahill or Hendrickson?  I love them all, really.  I love dry flies, period. I wish some of you would start submitting your signature fly to our "Flies of the World" web site listed below.  See Mike Connor’s examples.  Don’t any of you eastern boys know how to tie a dry fly for christ sake?  You guys have only one good fly tier their, I think and his name is George Harvey.  I thought he taught fly tying out that way in Pennsylvania and about?  You DO know what a dry fly is in North Carolina now, don’t you boys?  They sure don’t, in Arkansas. ; ) George *twitch —

Question:

Hi all      I am a Newbie to news groups but I have a few years Flyfishing in Oregon Just want to say hi to everyone And wish ya luck on your next time on the water.                Bob

Response:

Hi all      I am a Newbie to news groups but I have a few years Flyfishing in Oregon Just want to say hi to everyone And wish ya luck on your next time on the water.                Bob

    Welcome, we here in Fl. don’t need luck by the way. Just opertunity. Have fun                                                               John Popp                                                        in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Welcome Bob,    Where do you live in Oregon and what kinds of fish do you fly fish for? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all      I am a Newbie to news groups but I have a few years Flyfishing in Oregon Just want to say hi to everyone And wish ya luck on your next time on the water.                Bob

Response:

I am a Newbie to news groups but I have a few years Flyfishing in Oregon. Just want to say hi to everyone And wish ya luck on your next time on the water.    Welcome, we here in Fl. don’t need luck by the way. Just opertunity.

And a good spellchecker! ;^) /dave (Just kidding!)

Response:

Question:

Hi folks, I’m new to the group, and would like your thoughts on what is the best kayak for fly fishing coastal bays and flats.  I normally fly fish in Christmas Bay (close to Galveston, TX), and use a Zest Two – Ocean Kayak two seater.  It’s kinda tough to handle in a breeze over, say, 10 kts. I’m in the market for a faster boat that will handle higher wind conditions, and would like some input from those more knowledgable than I. Howard About Christmas Bay – http://www.christmasbay.com

Response:

  Hi, the boat of choice here in San Diego for fishing seems to be the Scupper Pro,and Scupper Classic. I own the classic , it weighs48pds. compared to your68pd. zest. The pros weigh 55pds.      I’m able to troll effectivly even when the wind picks up, if the wind picks up while jig fishing or while i’m after halibut i use my sea anchor to slow my drift     Aqua

Response:

I’m new to the group, and would like your thoughts on what is the best kayak for fly fishing coastal bays and flats.  I normally fly fish in Christmas Bay (close to Galveston, TX), and use a Zest Two – Ocean Kayak two seater.  It’s kinda tough to handle in a breeze over, say, 10 kts. I’m in the market for a faster boat that will handle higher wind conditions, and would like some input from those more knowledgable than I.

I’m also a newbie to this thing, but I’ve got a few opinions anyway…  [had my boat for a couple months so far] I know most folks will suggest an open cockpit boat, but don’t write off an enclosed version.   Also, I know most folks tend to prefer getting out of the boat and wade, but I’m not one of them.  I like to start more or less dry, and end more or less dry. I have very little difficulty casting my 8 weight while seated in my kayak. [Dagger Edisto].   But there is also enough deck rigging to support a decent trolling setup, and there was enough mounting and cargo room for me to add an all-around light to help with safe night fishing and transits to duck hunting spots next season.. If you are annoyed by high winds and waves, get a rudder. The difference is mind bogolling. My modest experiences so far: http://www.neosoft.com/~rww/kayak_log.html

Response:

If you are annoyed by high winds and waves, get a rudder. The difference is mind bogolling. My modest experiences so far: http://www.neosoft.com/~rww/kayak_log.html

If I get out I may use a fly rod on the flats, but I have had more luck trolling from my kayak.  I dont know if its the speed or that the boat makes the fish notice my fly or lure but the success rate is pretty good for both bass and blues.  I use a kevlar kayak and a rudder to make the experience "less painful".  I also gave up using a rod from my boat.  I made a hand line device that is very easy to use.  To see one visit my site at:  http://www.jlc.net/~hlevin I usually troll rapalas, rubber eels a fly or other artifical baits. —     Hal     Wilton, NH     Power your boat with carbohydrates,     not hydrocarbons.           http://www.jlc.net/~hlevin                 0                  _O                     0

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If I get out I may use a fly rod on the flats, but I have had more luck trolling from my kayak.  I dont know if its the speed or that the boat

I do good trolling as well. experience "less painful".  I also gave up using a rod from my boat.  I made a hand line device that is very easy to use.  To see one visit my

Give up my rod and reel?  I have a rod holder angled 45 degrees backward, a bit behind the cockpit.  I can paddle (troll) at any speed without interference.  That reminds me…i was trolling at work yesterday..woops!

Response:

Question:

I want to take just a moment to thank the people who tried to connect for the Wednesday evening chat session.  Unfortunately, FlyFishAmerica’s Web Page Chat option just didn’t work quite the way we wanted it to.   I hurriedly configured an alternate means but unfortunately not everyone had Java enabled browsers.  So in the interim until the folks at FlyFishAmerica can come up with an alternate means of chatting we will connect via IRC Client Software.  In other words you will need mIRC, WsIRC for IBM Clones, or Homer and IRcle for Mac’s. In configuring set your irc server to: 206.230.8.18, on port 6667. We will chat Wednesday Feb 5, at 18:00 MST or 20:00 Eastern Joe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to take just a moment to thank the people who tried to connect for the Wednesday evening chat session.  Unfortunately, FlyFishAmerica’s Web Page Chat option just didn’t work quite the way we wanted it to. I hurriedly configured an alternate means but unfortunately not everyone had Java enabled browsers.  So in the interim until the folks at FlyFishAmerica can come up with an alternate means of chatting we will connect via IRC Client Software.  In other words you will need mIRC, WsIRC for IBM Clones, or Homer and IRcle for Mac’s. In configuring set your irc server to: 206.230.8.18, on port 6667. We will chat Wednesday Feb 5, at 18:00 MST or 20:00 Eastern JoeForgive me for being computer illiterate, but, what is and irc server?  

Where do you get it?  Is it software?  More info. please. John

Response:

connect via IRC Client Software.  In other words you will need mIRC, WsIRC for IBM Clones, or Homer and IRcle for Mac’s. In configuring set your irc server to: 206.230.8.18, on port 6667. We will chat Wednesday Feb 5, at 18:00 MST or 20:00 Eastern JoeForgive me for being computer illiterate, but, what is and irc server?   Where do you get it?  Is it software?  More info. please. John

John if you are using an IBM Clone then go to http://www.tucows.com and in the area for text chat download a program called mIRC.  It is pretty easy to set up.  mIRC will allow you to connect to IRC (Internet Relay Chat)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to take just a moment to thank the people who tried to connect for the Wednesday evening chat session.  Unfortunately, FlyFishAmerica’s Web Page Chat option just didn’t work quite the way we wanted it to. connect via IRC Client Software.   In other words you will need mIRC,WsIRC for IBM Clones, or Homer and IRcle for Mac’s. In configuring set your irc server to: 206.230.8.18, on port 6667. We will chat Wednesday Feb 5, at 18:00 MST or 20:00 Eastern JoeForgive me for being computer illiterate, but, what is and ircserver? Where do you get it?  Is it software?  More info. please. John if you are using an IBM Clone then go to http://www.tucows.com and in the area for text chat download a program called mIRC.  It is pretty easy to set up.  mIRC will allow you to connect to IRC (Internet Relay Chat)

Hello all… Sorry for the troubles we had before but they are now behind us. I re-wrote the FlyFishAmerica.com chat area, it has been fixed, it supports a lot more users and is wicked fast. It does not require any downloading or special software and is based on SERVERside Java which does not even require a Java enabled browser. Bob Stewart http://www.flyfishamerica.com/chat/chat.html

Response:

I guess this question is for Al Beatty as much as everyone else.   Are we gonna try to chat Wed. evening again?

Response:

I guess this question is for Al Beatty as much as everyone else. Are we gonna try to chat Wed. evening again?

Hi Joe Why don’t you start the chat and I’ll join in if I can. I have a fly tying class to teach and I’m not sure how long it will take. By the way I sure like your IRC server you showed me yesterday, it was great. Thanks much for sending me the soft ware. Good Tying &…. (the bobbin is on the way). — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Where is the chat session going to be held from now on? John

Response:

John: It is up in the air right now…..FFAmerica is in the process of working on their chat section ontheir page.  Til then try in your irc client to connect to: Server: 206.230.8.18 Port: 6667 Channel #FlyTyer Wednesday’s at 8:00pm EST – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Where is the chat session going to be held from now on? John

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Question:

What is the best 3 -4 day Idaho raft trip?  When is the best time to go? Any suggestions on outfitters?  Do rafters have the opportunity to kayak part of the run without bringing their own boats cross country?  Any Jonathan Katz

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What is the best 3 -4 day Idaho raft trip?  When is the best time to go? Any suggestions on outfitters?  Do rafters have the opportunity to kayak part of the run without bringing their own boats cross country?  Any Jonathan Katz

Try Mackay Wilderness River Trips (800 635-5336) out of Boise.  They offer trips on the Middle and Main Fork of the Salmon.  We did the whole Middle fork 2 summers ago (6 days) in early July and had a blast.  The water was up, the food was great, great guides.  The fishing was shitty because the water was so high.  I guess you can have great fishing or great water, not both.  For a 3 day I’d recommend the upper run of the Middle Fork.  They fly you in to the put-in, you land in a meadow and get bused 10-12 miles to the river and get out at a guest ranch and fly out from there.  The scenery’s more alpine and some pretty good whitewater on that run.  The lower run (also 3 days) you fly in to the guest ranch then float to the Middle’s confuence with the Main then get bused out (several hours) to Salmon, ID then fly back to Boise from there.  I recommend the Middle over the Main because it’s a designated wilderness stretch, very pristene and clear running.  The Main is lots bigger, browner and has lots of guest ranches and jet boats, more civilization in general I’m told.  Mackay offers oar rafts, paddle rafts and inflatable kayaks.  You can ride any way you prefer.  If you do go down the upper Middle Fork I’d say take a pass on staying at that guest ranch half way down.  It’s kinda beat out and not in an especially pretty stretch.  I have friends that stayed there 3 days then floated out 3 days and were bored shitless at the ranch.  If you go and the water’s up don’t even bother getting a fishing liscense.  I saw 2 fish get caught the whole six days!  We saw a black bear, several golden eagles and bighorns.  Moose and elk are possible.  If you like more than a glass of wine or 2 of an evening to take the edge off, take your own.  A little is provided at dinner and that’s it.  Have fun! Dave

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What is the best 3 -4 day Idaho raft trip?  When is the best time to go? Any suggestions on outfitters?  Do rafters have the opportunity to kayak part of the run without bringing their own boats cross country?  Any Jonathan Katz

Hi,   Several years ago, my wife and I did a trip with Canyons, Inc.  This company is owned and run by Les Bechtel out of McCall ID. They only do Middle Fork and Main Salmon trips.  I know that they do paddle and oar raft trips, as well as support for Kayak and open boats,  and they bring along a couple of IK’s as well. Food is wonderful, guides were very nice, food was GREAT. We did a MF trip in early season (July, I think) about 6 days and the trip was great. I don’t know if they can supply boats or not.  Give them a call and find out. Canyons, Inc. (208) 634-4303 (I think). Ted Marz

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<snip   Several years ago, my wife and I did a trip with Canyons, Inc.  This company is owned and run by Les Bechtel out of McCall ID.

   It is Canyon’s, but in case you need it to find the phone # the last name is Bechdel… —     AWA, IRU      – http://www.intbuild.com —       Ketchum,  ID.       Home of Worldgroup for Mac, telnet://wgmac.intbuild.com

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Question:

I have been fly fishing for awhile now and I always hear that chirnomids are the key.  Any info on how to fish these little creatures would be most helpful!

Depends on whether you’re fishing them in rivers or lakes. In rivers generally I like to fish them dead drift (both pupa and larval imitations).   I fish them under an indicator with 6x (hopefully) or 7x (if I must) tippet set to the depth of the water and a small split shot about 6" above the fly.  In spring creeks the indicator will only move once out of every 4 strikes or so and you’re better off watching the fish for a feeding move if you can see him when the ‘cator gets close.  If the fish’s head snaps from the side to center, STrike! If the fish moves over and stops, STRike!  If you see the white flash of the fish’s mouth opening, wait until it closes and STRIke!   If you think it might be your fly but you’re not sure, STRIKe!!   You have nothing to lose and if it was you and you didn’t strike, the fish may not pick it up again and you’ve lost out.  If in doubt, STRIKE!! You can also fish a pupa imitation in the film by putting some fly floatant only on the thorax).  This will allow it to hang down from the suface just like the natural does (this only works on a fresh fly not a waterlogged one).  You’ll see the strike as a sipping rise. If they are taking the fully emerged adults, fish the midge on the surface.  If you get a refusal – the fish turns away or the water just bulges under your fly, trim the hackle off the bottom of the fly and cut the tail in half. This will drop it slightly into the film and will usually take the fish that just refused it.  If you don’t see a small bubble in the riseform, then the fish is not breaking the surface and hanging it an inch under the water sometimes works real well.  Treat your leader with fly floatant up to about 1"-2" away from the fly but not on the pupa itself.  This will hang the fly just under the surface.  Sometimes the take is visible as a rise and sometimes the take just looks like a bulge in the water – STRIKE! In lakes I also often use an indicator with my pupa imitations to more accurately imitate the manner in which  they approach the surface.  Attach the indicator about 5′ above the fly and a small split shot about 6" from the fly.  Cast the fly out and allow it to sink for 10 seconds or so. Strip the fly back to you in 6-7" strips with the rod tip in the water so that when you pull on the line you are pulling on the fly.  Strip it just fast enough to make a small wake with the indicator.  This method makes the fly swim up to the surface more vertically than without an indicator and makes a big difference in success.  Watch the ‘cator closely as the fish will often take the fly as it stops moving and sinks a little before the next strip.  Even if the fish takes it as you have it under tension, the indicator will twitch slightly before you feel it.  These are most effectively fished over weedbeds (chironomid hotels). I set up dries and emergers in lake the same way I outlined for rivers, but I try to give them a little twitch from time to time since there is no current. Helps attract the fish’s attention and adds a little more realism to the presentation.  Remember this is a twitch not a 1 or 2" pull – would have to be super midge to move that far.  If you get the slack out of the line and get your rod tip slightly under water you can do this twitch pretty effectively. Don’t overdo it.                            Hope this helps,                                    Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Question:

: Does anyone know who makes Cabella Fish Eagle fly rods I was watching a video by Stu Apte on Saltwater Fly fishing and he mentioned in passing that Cabella’s rods were built by G Loomis. Any Confirmations? Rodney Singapore

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 This reel was almost certainly made by the Sth company in Argentina.  It was identical in design and even carried the same symbols but a different label. Cannot speak for the new reels included in packages except to say that the new cassette fly reel looks surprisingly like the Sth cassette reels (just a guess).  

Yes, this would make sense because STH makes Loomis reels and the head STH engineer Roberto Sacconi is a friend of Gary Loomis. Loomis claims to be a real believer in the STH system. Cal — Fishin Buddy  o <<     o  |           These opinions are offered by weight  <     <  o       <J           provocative content may have occurred      <<       <<                    during shipping and handling.

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J.Vogel) says: Does anyone know who makes Cabella Fish Eagle fly rods I think the conclusions reached on the net include the following: Cabela uses rod blanks from G. Loomis to manufacture its fly rods.  We never decided who actually makes the rods but seemed to agree that they are of good quality and reasonable for the $$. My own experience supports this claim.  The outfit that I have included the Fish Eagle II rod and an MCD reel.  This reel was almost certainly made by the Sth company in Argentina.  It was identical in design and even carried the same symbols but a different label. Cannot speak for the new reels included in packages except to say that the new cassette fly reel looks surprisingly like the Sth cassette reels (just a guess).  I believe you also asked a question about who makes the Cabelas reel (in another post)…this reply may answer that.  If you are asking about spinning reels, we have discussed this and never reached an answer. Hope this helps.  Scott Maitland

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