Question:

I just had an incredible bit of luck run into me. Yesterday one of my coworkers came into my office and said that he noticed from my office decorations that I enjoyed fly fishing. He had run across one of those fly fishing coffee table books for $1.00 in the local bargain bin and bought it for me. As I thanked him, one bit of conversation led to another and he mentioned he had an old fly rod in his garage collecting dust and asked if I’d like it. It turns out that this guy used to camp and hunt in Keene, NH about 15-20 years ago. One day while he was there, his hunting partner asked if he would mind helping the landowner pack a few things into a moving truck. Long story short, they ended up at Lee Wulff’s place in Surry. He said that Mr. Wulff was spending more time reminiscing about each thing he packed than actually packing the U-Haul for his move to New York on the Beaverkill. At the end of the day, Mr. Wulff gave my coworker his Cortland Model 502-A, 2-piece 7′6" 7WT rod, of which I am now the proud owner. Judging from the wear on the tip-top, this rod was used frequently. Although the rod itself may not be of much value (and of this I’m not sure – I can’t find any info on it), the fact that Mr. Wulff once fished with it makes it something I will cherish. When told of his death, Charles Kurault said, "Lee Wulff was to fly fishing what Einstein was to physics." As someone recently said here, life is good. — TL, Tim

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just had an incredible bit of luck run into me. Yesterday one of my coworkers came into my office and said that he noticed from my office decorations that I enjoyed fly fishing. He had run across one of those fly fishing coffee table books for $1.00 in the local bargain bin and bought it for me. As I thanked him, one bit of conversation led to another and he mentioned he had an old fly rod in his garage collecting dust and asked if I’d like it. It turns out that this guy used to camp and hunt in Keene, NH about 15-20 years ago. One day while he was there, his hunting partner asked if he would mind helping the landowner pack a few things into a moving truck. Long story short, they ended up at Lee Wulff’s place in Surry. He said that Mr. Wulff was spending more time reminiscing about each thing he packed than actually packing the U-Haul for his move to New York on the Beaverkill. At the end of the day, Mr. Wulff gave my coworker his Cortland Model 502-A, 2-piece 7′6" 7WT rod, of which I am now the proud owner. Judging from the wear on the tip-top, this rod was used frequently. Although the rod itself may not be of much value (and of this I’m not sure – I can’t find any info on it), the fact that Mr. Wulff once fished with it makes it something I will cherish. When told of his death, Charles Kurault said, "Lee Wulff was to fly fishing what Einstein was to physics." As someone recently said here, life is good. — TL, Tim

That is awesome Tim. Congrats Russell -Couldn’t happen to a nicer guy.

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Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

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Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

Already working on it. I’ve written to Joan Wulff to see if she can verify the circumstance. Also, my coworker was keeping a diary during the time this happened, so he thinks he can give me some more exact timeframe. Even though it’s designated as a 7WT, the rod feels like it would handle a WF5F line pretty well, which is usually what I use. Has anyone out there fished with this kind of mismatch before? Any tips? — TL, Tim (excited like a kid in a candy store)

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Already working on it. I’ve written to Joan Wulff to see if she can verify the circumstance.

OTOH, she might want her rod back.  :-) Joe F.

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All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie.

Response:

Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

Absolutely.  In fact, you might even wish to contact Joan Wulff and see about a letter.  While it may seem unimportant now, when and if it becomes important, it will be more difficult, if not impossible, to gather the needed information.  Also, make sure that your documentation/research is clearly spelled out and your family knows about it (or at least where to find your documentation).  Trust me on this – I speak from personal experience. You might also wish to check with the Catskill FFing Center: Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum 1031 Old Route 17, Livingston Manor, New York 12758 http://www.cffcm.org/cmc.html  or the Anglers’ Club of New York: The Anglers’ Club of New York 101 Broad St. New York, NY 10004 Voice: (212) 425-7333 Fax: (212) 809-9089 IIRC, they were involved in auction of Wulff items a couple of years ago, and might be able to give you a rough idea of value for insurance, etc.   Congrats on the "find." TC, R

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value. Absolutely.  In fact, you might even wish to contact Joan Wulff and see about a letter.  While it may seem unimportant now, when and if it becomes important, it will be more difficult, if not impossible, to gather the needed information.  Also, make sure that your documentation/research is clearly spelled out and your family knows about it (or at least where to find your documentation).  Trust me on this – I speak from personal experience. You might also wish to check with the Catskill FFing Center: Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum 1031 Old Route 17, Livingston Manor, New York 12758 http://www.cffcm.org/cmc.html  or the Anglers’ Club of New York: The Anglers’ Club of New York 101 Broad St. New York, NY 10004 Voice: (212) 425-7333 Fax: (212) 809-9089 IIRC, they were involved in auction of Wulff items a couple of years ago, and might be able to give you a rough idea of value for insurance, etc.

Thanks for the info — I’ve written both and will let you know the results. — TL, Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Congrats on the "find." TC, R

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All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River

brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g — TL, Tim

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"Stan Gula" All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g

While you wimps were enjoying your cold drinks, I actually fished. Caught 30" of brookie more or less equally divided into five fish. Comgrats on the rod, Tim…gonna bring it next week? BTW, this good fortune also enhanced your Kreh number, (Lee must have known Lefty, right?), not to mention what it did to your Wullf number. <G George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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"Stan Gula" All I have to say is: we should have gone fishing yesterday.  You were destined to catch that once in a lifetime wild 30 inch Swift River brookie. No kidding! And I probably wouldn’t have even minded the heat. <g While you wimps were enjoying your cold drinks, I actually fished. Caught 30" of brookie more or less equally divided into five fish.

This takes counting to a whole new level. Comgrats on the rod, Tim…gonna bring it next week?

Yes. If you’re really nice to me I’ll let you hold it . . . just for a moment. BTW, this good fortune also enhanced your Kreh number, (Lee must have known Lefty, right?), not to mention what it did to your Wullf number. <G

Hey, anything that increases either of those is good. I’m almost at "1" now! — TL, Tim

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Awesome.  Write down the "provenance" with as many dates and names as you can get.  If you decide to just keep the rod and later sell it, this will definately increase its value.

it’s a unique piece of luck and to be treasured. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Question:

Can anyone recommend a fly guide for bonefishing? We have trip planed  for Feb. I know other Bahama areas but Harbour is new to us.  Thanks in advance Harrison Hubard

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Can anyone recommend a fly guide for bonefishing? We have trip planed  for Feb. I know other Bahama areas but Harbour is new to us. Thanks in advance Harrison Hubard

You might try: www.romorabay.com (Harbour) www.dunmorebeach.com (Harbour) www.bahamasvg.com (Eleuthera/Harbour) www.bahamasonline (Same) Also, when you get there, try a place (bar) called Gustaf’s or Gusty’s if it is still there – for land-based fun, not fishing, although…. HTH? R

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Question:

rw, It’s in the Indian Ocean, south of Indonesia. There are bones there too. It is an Australian Territory and has provided the only official fly caught bones in Australian waters. It is better known to us as a refugee landing point. Hundreds of Chinese, Indonesians, now Iranians have arrived there in the last few months. Cheer JK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But no, that wasn’t me. rw’s off to Easter Island at some point; Uh, I think you got the wrong holiday there Trip, it’s *Christmas* Island<g. One funny thing is that there are two Christmas Islands in the South Pacific, and both have fishing. The "wrong" Christmas Island has blue water big game fishing. (No bonefish.) I wonder whether some confused flyfisherman has ever shown up there with totally wrong tackle. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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Mike: here’s the Alberta snow report: I drove through Calgary early this week. No snow to speak of. Absolutely none in Lethbridge where I live. Foescast calls for some flurries tonight, but a high of 8 C, so it won’t last long. No snow forecasted until Tuesday or Wednesday. Probably be another brown Xmas. Tim Lysyk

Well… Ok then… Maybe winters I remember. Heck last year in December I remeber we got some serious snow all around the region! I decide to stay here and it stay’s nice… What’s up with that? My parents are down in the Phillipines until January and I am having them scout some nice possiblities to fish while they travel around to golf… That’ll be a nice trip but one when my kids are much older. I can’t imgaine lugging all three girls around on an 18 hour plane trip! I am still thinking about Calgary in the Summer but I am not too sure. I’ll have to see how things go in the spring… That’d be nice though two weeks back home and as much fishing as I can squeeze in! — Michael Era

Question:

I’ve been looking through USA Today for the past few days during school & noticed Northwest’s advertisements for their new MSP-FBU service and was wondering if anyone knew what type of plane will be used on this run ? DC-10 ? Is there actually the demand for a MSP-FBU flight ? — kev http://www.geocities.com/southbeach/marina/6273/index.html np: something by someone on woxy-97x you can dye your hair, but its the one thing you can change. can’t run away from yourself… -pulp

Response:

I’ve been looking through USA Today for the past few days during school & noticed Northwest’s advertisements for their new MSP-FBU service

Actually it will be MSP to OSL, since Fornebu (FBU) closed last October, and Oslo’s airport is at Gardemoen (sp?) now. and was wondering if anyone knew what type of plane will be used on this run ? DC-10 ?

Yes. Is there actually the demand for a MSP-FBU flight ?

Well, given that the instructions on the pay phones at MSP are also in Norwegian, yes, I think so. This route will also feed Brathens’ hub at OSL for connections to other Scandinavian cities. Northwest flew MSP-FBU in the 70’s and 80’s. -Erik

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I’ve been looking through USA Today for the past few days during school & noticed Northwest’s advertisements for their new MSP-FBU service Actually it will be MSP to OSL, since Fornebu (FBU) closed last October, and Oslo’s airport is at Gardemoen (sp?) now.

Oops. Sorry about that. And is the code for Gardermoen really OSL ? I thought it was GEN. Is there actually the demand for a MSP-FBU flight ? Well, given that the instructions on the pay phones at MSP are also in Norwegian, yes, I think so.

I never knew. Quite fascinating, really. This route will also feed Brathens’ hub at OSL for connections to other Scandinavian cities. Northwest flew MSP-FBU in the 70’s and 80’s.

Why not a MSP-CPH or a MSP-ARN flight instead of a MSP-OSL/GEN flight for connections to other Scandinavian cities ? Is it because of Northwest’s previous experience flying MSP-FBU ? — kev http://www.geocities.com/southbeach/marina/6273/index.html np: something by someone on WOXY-97x. you can dye your hair, but its the one thing you can change. can’t run away from yourself… -pulp

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says… I’ve been looking through USA Today for the past few days during school & noticed Northwest’s advertisements for their new MSP-FBU service Actually it will be MSP to OSL, since Fornebu (FBU) closed last October, and Oslo’s airport is at Gardemoen (sp?) now. Oops. Sorry about that. And is the code for Gardermoen really OSL ? I thought it was GEN.

I would have thought OSL is the city code for Oslo. GEN is or was certainly the airport code for Gardermoen – or maybe they have changed GEN to OSL now that FBU is closed and GEN is a "real" airport? Well, given that the instructions on the pay phones at MSP are also in Norwegian, yes, I think so. I never knew. Quite fascinating, really.

You have to be kidding. MSP? I never heard of any oil, fishing or knitting industry in Minnesota? Northwest flew MSP-FBU in the 70’s and 80’s.

I think they also used to fly ARN-JFK in the 80’s. P-O — Per-Olof Litby Product Mgr, Microsoft Nordic, Box 27, 16493 Kista, Sweden Mobile +46 70 452-2885 Dates in your calendar are closer than they appear.

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Oops. Sorry about that. And is the code for Gardermoen really OSL ? I thought it was GEN

I think it was GEN until FBU was closed, and then became OSL, since it is now Oslo’s one official airport (I am ignoring Torp) Why not a MSP-CPH or a MSP-ARN flight instead of a MSP-OSL/GEN flight for connections to other Scandinavian cities ? Is it because of Northwest’s previous experience flying MSP-FBU ?

Again, I thin it is to hook into Brathen’s system, which is partly owned by NW’s partner KLM. I think that the ORD-CPH and ORD-ARN service that SAS/United offers (and SAS’s control over CPH and ARN) forces "Wings" (NW/Brathens) to OSL. -Erik

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You have to be kidding. MSP? I never heard of any oil, fishing or knitting industry in Minnesota?

You obviously never listen to A Prarie Home Companion on National Public Radio. Quick history:  When the Great Northern and the Northern Pacific were being built, they actively recruited Scandinavians to populate the lands given to them to build the rail lines by the U.S. government (homesteading). Thus, to this day, the prominent heritage of European-Americans who live between Minneapolis and Seattle is Scandinavian (Norwegian, Swedish, Danish, Icelandic, and Finn) -Erik -Erik

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Really?  Where?  I lived there for 15 years and don’t ever recall this.

Next time you are at the airport, look in the main hall.: Northwest flew MSP-FBU in the 70’s and 80’s. Yep, and MSP-ARN as well if I recall correctly.

I think it was a MSP-ARN-FBU triangle. -Erik

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Thus, to this day, the prominent heritage of European-Americans who live between Minneapolis and Seattle is Scandinavian (Norwegian, Swedish, Danish, Icelandic, and Finn)

There’s a strong majority of people of German/Swiss/Austrian descent in some areas as well, though.  Particularly southern and western Minnesota. —                      Written online using slrn 0.9.5.4!                    The Theorem Theorem: If If, Then Then.

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Is there actually the demand for a MSP-FBU flight ?

MSP-OSL yes, because there is only one non-stop a day from Oslo to USA and that is with SAS’s 767. Nice with a timesaving alternative. Anders

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Question:

The thread on polarized sun glasses made me think of a more basic question: Why are some people so much better than me at spotting fish? With my glasses on, my vision is measurably as good as anyone’s.  And the situation I describe below even applies to my youth when my vision was, by all tests, perfect. Still, I’ve been on the stream and had certain keen eyed fishing partners point out fish I did not detect.  Sometimes I cannot see them even after they are pointed out, but without fail, an experiment to disturb the fish always results in seeing it dart away.  Or, to more succinctly prove the point, caught!  Very frustrating. Are the eyes of my friends especially keen or are there techniques for seeing fish I just haven’t picked up.  Anybody out there got pointers for spotting fish, assuming one already knows where to look, is using polarized glasses and has 20/20 vision. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Why are some people so much better than me at spotting fish?

The only way I know of to improve your spotting is simply to spend as much time as possible on a stream, spotting fish.  It is a very subtle art, much like nymph fishing, and your score will improve with practice and experience. One tip, rather than look for a whole fish, look for parts, (i.e. a white edged fin, etc.) or movement.  It is very similar in that respect to spotting deer in the woods. Tight lines!! George

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The thread on polarized sun glasses made me think of a more basic question: Why are some people so much better than me at spotting fish?

There is no doubt in my mind that various brains process signal in various ways.  That is why some people made better radar or sonar operators than others.  Someone once used my ham station.  While listening to noise on the speaker he mentioned that he heard someone (code transmission) coming in loud and clear.  I heard only noise.  With careful listening, I was able to tell that there were some slight changes to the character of the noise.  It was not enough to be of help to me.  I have no idea how much improvement can be obtained from training.  The differences may well be innate. By the way, the US Navy will no longer require radio operaters to be proficient at Morse code. Bill Buchman

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Why are some people so much better than me at spotting fish? The only way I know of to improve your spotting is simply to spend as much time as possible on a stream, spotting fish.  It is a very subtle art, much like nymph fishing, and your score will improve with practice and experience. One tip, rather than look for a whole fish, look for parts, (i.e. a white edged fin, etc.) or movement.  It is very similar in that respect to spotting deer in the woods.

I agree with George that sitting and watching is the technique. It is the best fishing strategy anyway to sit and observe a pool or riffle for five or ten minutes before you approach or wade. Over a short period of time you can eventually see fish that you won’t see on first glance. Time lets you put together a few signals that individually are barely noticeable but can add up to a clear location of a feeding fish. Look in places where trout will be – places of slower flow where they relax but where they can see faster flow. Look for shadows that shift slightly across the stream. Normal shadows from current on the surface will only move straight downstream. It is a matter of observing not the details you are seeing but the repeating patterns of movement, then when some shadow or flash occurs that is not part of the repeating pattern, there is your fish. A tail or fin of a holding fish can sometimes be picked out among rocks or under logs but it is much easier to see a shadow shift slightly then back as a fish takes a nymph. In riffles and eddies, sit a bit and you’ll notice that small flat glassy sections of surface will be mixed with the rippled surface. These are like moving portholes into the depths, and if you watch them move downstream you can see the bottom clearly if just for a second. And if you’re steelhead fishing, look for blue logs. Mark Vinsel www.vinsel.com

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I could not say it any better than Mark has just mentioned.  Steamside experience is the only way to succeed- look for the flashes or movement. Sage

        here’s an exception-that-proves-the-rule story:  couple years ago, my wife and i took a trip to bonaire (aruba, bonaire, curacao), and i was able to find a bonefish guide, who took us to vast white bottomed salt flats that were thick with small, schooling bones. invariably, my wife would see fish before i could; on a couple of occasions, she called em out before the guide.  he was amazed, as i was.  she had never been bonefishing before.  her eye just clicked with the image, i guess. I think that you just pointed out the rule whereas Mar pointed out the exception.  There a limit to just how much improvement you can get by practice.  There are many basketball players who are willing to work harder than Michael Jordan or violinist who will work harder than Itzhak Perleman (spelling?). (This is not to say that the do not work hard at their craft.)  Nevertheless, in spite of this effort, these people will just not ever be even close in performance.  The navy investigated this in the search for good sonar operators. Wayne’s wife just happens to be talented at seeing bonefish.  With practice, she may become much better.  You have to start with the talent. Bill Buchman

Response:

….Thirdly, I think some people are out more and know where they should be

looking.  Good Polarized glasses will help….Bill Kiene< Bill’s right, I think. Spotting fish is an acquired art (skill) that comes with time on the water, and distinct, concentrated effort. Dennis Smith Loveland, CO

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I could not say it any better than Mark has just mentioned.  Steamside experience is the only way to succeed- look for the flashes or movement. Sage

        here’s an exception-that-proves-the-rule story:  couple years ago, my wife and i took a trip to bonaire (aruba, bonaire, curacao), and i was able to find a bonefish guide, who took us to vast white bottomed salt flats that were thick with small, schooling bones. invariably, my wife would see fish before i could; on a couple of occasions, she called em out before the guide.  he was amazed, as i was.  she had never been bonefishing before.  her eye just clicked with the image, i guess.         a. wayne harrison

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I could not say it any better than Mark has just mentioned.  Steamside experience is the only way to succeed- look for the flashes or movement. Sage

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The thread on polarized sun glasses made me think of a more basic question: Why are some people so much better than me at spotting fish? With my glasses on, my vision is measurably as good as anyone’s.  And the situation I describe below even applies to my youth when my vision was, by all tests, perfect. Still, I’ve been on the stream and had certain keen eyed fishing partners point out fish I did not detect.  Sometimes I cannot see them even after they are pointed out, but without fail, an experiment to disturb the fish always results in seeing it dart away.  Or, to more succinctly prove the point, caught!  Very frustrating. Are the eyes of my friends especially keen or are there techniques for seeing fish I just haven’t picked up.  Anybody out there got pointers for spotting fish, assuming one already knows where to look, is using polarized glasses and has 20/20 vision. —                                                      -dnc-

Hi DN, Many of us guys are color blind to some degree. This makes it harder to spot fish. Secondly, some people are outside and are use to focusing at longer distances. Thirdly, I think some people are out more and know where they should be looking.  Good Polarized glasses will help. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Question:

Hi, My name is Curt Threlkeld and I am looking for names, numbers, addresses, etc. of fly fishing shops or individuals that I can put on my mailing list.  I live 60 miles south of Cancun, Mexico very close to Boca Paila and Acension Bay. The village is called Puerto Aventuras. I rent beach front condos and work call my toll free 888-803-8454 or visit my web site http://www.bluecaribbean.com .Thank you

Response:

visit my web site http://www.bluecaribbean.com .Thank you

—– There is nothing at your website. When?

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Question:

I was wondering if those in the Winnipeg vicinity know if either the Fishing Hole or S.I.R. is (or will have soon) a sale of fly-fishing gear. I’ve been tying for a couple of years, started (like most) with a typical pre-packaged all-in-one kit and would now like a better vise. Can those of you out there with more experience than I reccommend a few vises and their approximate costs?  What should I be looking for in my "next step up from the bottom level" vise? (I would also consider mail-order, too!) Your advice is appreciated, K.M.H. Outside the Perimeter, Manitoba.

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: I was wondering if those in the Winnipeg vicinity know if either the : Fishing Hole or S.I.R. is (or will have soon) a sale of fly-fishing gear. : I’ve been tying for a couple of years, started (like most) with a typical : pre-packaged all-in-one kit and would now like a better vise. Can those : of you out there with more experience than I reccommend a few vises and : their approximate costs?  What should I be looking for in my "next step : up from the bottom level" vise? (I would also consider mail-order, too!) : Your advice is appreciated, : K.M.H. : Outside the Perimeter, Manitoba. Decide first how much you want to spend. At the $50 level (American), you could choose from the likes of Thompson, Griffin, and like vises. Go to the $100 level and you might want to consider a Renzetti Traveler vise, Or even a Griffin Rotary.  Any "intermediate" level vise will have the quality to last a lifetime for the average tyer. Jon Porter

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I have used all of the mentioned vises, the Thompson "A" is my hands down favorite. It is inexpensive, durable and functional. NO COPIES! I found the Griffin to be a bit awkward. I am currently using a Renzetti presentation, although a nice piece of machinery it rates below the "A" in terms of all around usefulness. All of the above are definatly IMHO. A.J.Thramer

Response:

I bought the Renzetti Traveller used, two years ago as a intermediate upgrade (sound like a computer junkie don’t I) and cannot find any excuse to upgrade further.  The rotary feature is the key to "intermediate" tying.  I am not a production tyer though.   jg

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J.J., See my post about an new improvement to the Traveler. Otherwise, I agree with you except that after I tied some flies on the Renzetti Master, I came to the conclusion that if God tied flies here on Earth, he would tie with the Master (naturally!).

Response:

Hi,   Does anyone have any information on an electric fly reel for a physically challanged flyfisher? I’ve seen ocean reels, but nothing that will balance on a 5wt rod. Thanks, Jim Jim, Nevada Jim’s Outdoor Sports, Elko, NV

Response:

  Does anyone have any information on an electric fly reel for a physically challanged flyfisher? I’ve seen ocean reels, but nothing that will balance on a 5wt rod.

Clockwork "automatic" reels were made 1955-75 by several firms, including Scientific Anglers.  It may be hard to find one in good working order nowadays. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Clockwork "automatic" reels were made 1955-75 by several firms, including Scientific Anglers.  It may be hard to find one in good working order nowadays.

I just saw a new automatic reel on the shelf in Sears yesterday. Made by a company called Martin. Darryl Hayashida

Response:

Clockwork "automatic" reels were made 1955-75 by several firms, including Scientific Anglers.  It may be hard to find one in good working order nowadays.

I have on old automatic reel made by Perrine that my father gave to me. He used it when he was little but he didn’t fly fish a lot.  It is in very good condition.   -Russell

Response:

: Clockwork "automatic" reels were made 1955-75 by several firms, including : Scientific Anglers.  It may be hard to find one in good working order : nowadays. : I just saw a new automatic reel on the shelf in Sears yesterday. Made by : a company called Martin. : Darryl Hayashida There are still a couple of models of automatic fly reels around. Manufacturers include Martin, Perrine and Pflueger. Pflueger’s model is actually a *new* one, introduced only in the last year or two. Cabela’s, about US$25. These reels are *not* the best; drag increases unbelievably fast if you get a fish big enough to take line, and capacity is limited (usually the fly line and about 25 yards of backing). Also, do not attempt to dismantle one of these yourself; if you’ve ever had the recoil starter on an outboard motor explode into a giant tangle of spring steel, you’ll get an idea of what can happen. On the other hand, if you’ve only got one functioning hand, these reels allow you to fish again. Pretty decent trade-off. 3798 Woodland Drive     voice: (250) 368-9315 Trail, BC               data:  (250) 368-9341

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Question:

                            FLY FISHING BOOKS                                  FOR THE                                 SPORTSMAN * The American Sportsman Treasury, ‘71, by Knopf.  A collection of Fly Fishing and Hunting stories, with terrific art work and photos.  Chapters on fly fishing for Brown and Rainbow Trout, fly patterns that produce results, bamboo fly rods; and hunting white tail deer, woodcock, water foul, mountain sheep, grouse, etc. All written by famous authors, eg. Charles F. Waterman, Lee Wulff, Leonard M. Wright, Roderick Haig-Brown, William G. Sheldon and many others. An excellent book for the all around sportsman, and a way to reflect on the sporting heritage. * The Treasury of Angling, ‘63 by Koller.  A comprehensive history of angling, and the birth and growth of fly fishing. Chapters on angling in antiquity, early american angling, tackle, flies, entomology, Salmon, Trout, Bass, and other fresh water fish.  Terrific photos and art work.  Learn about the history of fly fishing and game fish, and gain a full sporting knowledge of the art of fly fishing. E-mail me if interested in these books, and I will e-mail cost info. JWTrout/2/11/96

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I’m interested. Thanks, Wayne Lance

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#Hello backpackers, #Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is #designed to be light weight for backpacking?   # #Thanks…Stever # Well, I have used my Canon AE-1 and F-1, one or the other or both.  Any 35mm SLR is light enough to backpack, in my opinion.  It just depends on how far you want to go.  I also carried my Bogen tripod and several lenses from 20mm to 200mm, extension tubes, filters, etc. It just depends on how much photography you want to do.  On the last trip I went on I went by myself so the fact that I was loaded down and couldn’t go very far didn’t matter as much. —

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?  

Well, there is light weight and there is compact.  I know of examples of various combinations of these. Some of the new cameras are made of plastic and are quite light.  The Canon EOS Rebel springs to mind.  Very light but not too compact. (~$390 with 35-70 zoom) Most camera manufacturers have made compact cameras at one time or another: Nikon FM, Pentax ME super, Olympus OM series, etc.  But these are (mostly) metal cameras and aren’t as light as the Rebel mentioned above. (you have to buy some of these used ~$250) If you want SLR quality but can do with a fixed lens rangefinder, I find the Olympus XA to be an excellent, tiny, light camera, perfect for carrying in a backpack (used, ~$130).  Old Leica screwmount rangefinders (body ~$150, 5cm lens ~$100) are compact and have interchangeable excellent lenses but don’t have meters and may be unreliable because of their age (I like my IIIc). Some of the new point-and-shoot cameras have gotten good reviews. The Olympus Infinity Stylus is small, light, and has auto focus. (~$130) Personally, I carry an old Rollieflex medium format camera, a light meter, and a fairly light tripod (Velbon).  This doesn’t give me the flexability of interchangeable lenses but it is fairly lightweight and the Zeiss lens gives me 16×20 prints to die for.  -Dyer Lytle Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136 – "The goal of civilization is settled life and the achievement of luxury. But there is a limit which cannot be overstepped. When prosperity and luxury come to a people, they are followed by excessive consumption and extravagance. With that the human soul itself is undermined both in its worldly well-being and in its spiritual life." – –                       the Arab, Ibn Khaldun, greatest of all historians — Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136 – "The goal of civilization is settled life and the achievement of luxury.

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Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking? I believe that Backpacker magazine had a review of lightweight cameras several issues ago (maybe last summer).  I think it was definitely within the last year or so.  Try your local library.

The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.         Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within. US Geological Survey Reston, VA | I only speak for myself. me.

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There are the inevitable comprimises to be made when ruggedness, seals against water or dirt and image quality vs. expense and weight are applied to cameras.         Nikon has a Nikonos V which weighs roughly 4 pounds (1 3/4 kg.) with a lens.  It carved out of solid aluminium, takes several lenses all but one of which is designed solely for underwater use, and can be used at depths of 100 m.  Great for white water rafting, not so great as a backpacking camera. Focus is set manually be guessing the distance (Galelian finder, not an SLR), shutter speed can be set automatically or manually in conjunction with the aperature. About $550.  Nikon also is about to introduce a much more elaborate autofucus SLR underwater camera that is not really well suited to land use (very heavy, very large) and will cost in excess of $3500 with a lens.         There are quality point and shoot cameras with reasonably fast and higher quality lenses.  A couple can even tolerate getting wet, though not at depth.  There are expensive models from Contax (~$400) Leica (made by Minolta), the equivalent Minolta, and Nikon. If you want memories, but not magazine quality reproductions, and are content leave the moose and flowers in the background, choose a point and shoot.  I find the common sense argument is only take a camera backpacking if you can afford emotionally and financially to sacrifice it.  The original poster wanted light weight first, then compact.  The point and shoots are the only choice that meet this constraint.         This is all from one who has dragged some very heavy packs of pro gear around, sometimes beyond discomfort.  I don’t shoot just for the memories.                                                         Paul

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The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.        Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within.

Could you possibly give us a run-down of the results? At least mention the cameras reviewed, and the overall winners? Thanks…

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FYI, for Christmas I bought my wife a Nikon Tele-Touch 300.  It is NOT an SLR but it DOES take full-frame 35mm film.  It is lightweight, and as the name suggests does have a limited zoom capability.  It includes a built-in flash, DL223 lithium battery, and has DX coding to set ASA/ISO film speed automatically when you use 35mm film cartidges that are so marked. It is NOT waterproof.  It will probably crash big time if you drop it. It was also only a hair over $100 and it takes dynamite pictures.  It has a self winder and can be made ready to use in seconds, which, when combined with the leight weight and physically small size would probably be considered desireable for most backpacking. Overall, she likes it and is happy with it. HINT: next time you are going to hike/backpack in the mountains someplace and want a lightweight, cheap quick and dirty camera to take decent panoramic wide-view shots with, try the Kodak Panoramic 35 box.  And I do mean BOX.  If you’ve never seen one of these, it is essentially a disposable camera with film already in it.  This particular one uses a regular 35mm film and shoots a narrow strip through the middle of the frame.  Kodak processing equipment now counts this as a standardized print size, and returns a respectable panoramic print that is about 10" long and 3 1/2 or 4 inches high. We took one along last November when we hiked up to the Le Conte Lodge in the Smokies.  Got some very nice landscape shots with it.  You won’t get the image quality you might from the aforementioned Nikon, but then you also aren’t out bunches of bucks if it goes down the side of a mountain, either.  :-) Duane

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

Well…. Olympus is known for making pretty light gear, as is Minolta. If you want to stay as light as possible, stay away from auto-focus SLRs. One issue you might want to think about, depending on how much shooting you are going to be doing and how long you will be in the backcountry, would be the reliability of the camera. A really light-weight alternative might be a point-and-shoot camera with a built-in zoom lens. [Cross-posted to rec.photo] —– To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.                                                 — John Muir

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

I use a Nikon FG for this sort of thing.  It’s not really designed for backpacking, probably other folks would say a Nikon FE2 is better since it’s more rugged.  Note that rugged implies heavier in general… As I’ve said on this net before, I like the FG because it’s light and it has TTL flash metering.  New enough to have TTL flash, old enough to have no heavy features like autofocus.  The FG is no longer made, you have to get a used one (same as the FE2…) I can weigh my FG and FE2 and get back to you if you want. Note that all these older Nikons can use the new autofocus lenses if you also have an AF body at home.       Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR  US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001

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The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.        Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within. Could you possibly give us a run-down of the results? At least mention the cameras reviewed, and the overall winners? Thanks…

Here goes… From August 1990 Backpacker magazine, pages 54-55. Article titled "Small Wonders… Compact Cameras for the Trail" by J. Michael Wyatt Reprinted without permission (sorry!)    How many times have you hesitated to dig your camera out of your pack for a single quick landscape shot? How often have you passed on grabbing a trailside candid of a companion? Ever leave your camera safely stowed because of dust, rain, or snow? Ever want to travel lighter and leave that expensive, full-sized, weighty 35mm SLR and lenses home, but bring back great photos of your trip?    It’s time you took a hard look at the world of point-and-shoot compacts. These plastic-bodied, fixed-lens wonders have taken the photo mass-market by storm by cramming more and more into smaller and smaller packages.    They offer such features as: -Sophisticated programmed autoexposure systems. -Automated built-in flash. Some models even offer intellegent flash systems that automatically compensate for backlighting. -Compatibility with DX-coded films so you don’t have to remember to set the film speed. -Weatherproof (and sometimes even waterproof) bodies. -Tele-wide dual lenses or zoom lenses. More and more point-and-shoot models are offering a combination of autofocus telephoto and wide-angle lenses. -Autowind and autorewind. -Autoloading film. Just open the back and drop in the film casette– a real boon to fumble-fingers.    But do these high-tech handfuls have anything to offer those of us who put image quality before convenience? They do, indeed. From the user’s end, these compact, lightweight cameras are simple but sophisticated and produce images of a suprisingly high quality. Granted the lenses probably won’t beat your SLR’s 50mm lens in a head-to-head test, but they will produce prints and transparencies suitable for all but the most critical uses. And the spontaneity these convenient pocket cameras bring to your on-the-trail picture taking will help ensure memorable images. After all, the real test of a camera is how often you return with pictures, right?     TIPS FOR THE BACKCOUNTRY    All of these microelectronic wonders have one thing in common: a total dependence on batteries. To avoid cold-weather battery lockups, use fresh batteries and keep an extra set in a warm place like an accessible interior pocket. If you plan to do a lot of cold-weather shooting, make sure the camera accepts lithium batteries; they offer considerably improved cold-weather performance over alkaline batteries.    Dual, telephoto, and wide-angle autofocus lens cameras offer the greatest versatility for backcountry use.    If you canoe, kayak, or hike in wet or dusty conditions, consider a weatherproof model; it will resist the entry of dust, grit, condensa- tion, fog, and light rain. If you’re particularly fond of bad weather, take a hard look at the more water- and weather-resistant waterproof cameras.    If you plan to take self-portraits or long exposures, be sure the camera has a self-timer and tripod socket. [DESCRIPTION OF CAMERAS FOLLOWS]: [All are autofocus, with programmed auto metering, autowind, autoload, and autorewind. All weights are without batteries.] [Prices not given]                                                            A-Self timer                                                            B-Tripod socket                                                            C-Weatherproof                                                            D-Waterproof Model     Lens     DX     Flash      Size      Weight   Battery   A  B  C  D Canon   |Zoom XL  |50- | Auto with   6"x3.6"   20.8 oz  two 3v    Y  Y  N  N Sureshot|39mm f3.6|3200| backlight    x2.6"    (590 g)  lithium         |  to     |    | correction         |85mm f7.3|    | Minolta |Dual 35mm|100-| Yes (can    5.8"x3"   14.1 oz  one 6v    N  N  Y  1 Weather-| f3.5 &  |1000| be dis-      x2.6"    (400 g)  lithium matic   |50mm f5.6|    | abled) Dual    |         |    | Nikon   |35mm f2.8|50- | Auto        5.2"x3.2" 17.0 oz  two 1.5v  Y  Y  Y  2 Action  |         |1600|              x2.2"    (482 g)  alkaline* Touch   |         |    | Olympus |Dual 35mm|50- | Auto with   5"x2.5"x  7.9 oz   one 6v    Y  Y  Y  N Infinity|f3.5 &   |3200| backlight     1.8"    (224 g)  lithium Twin    |70mm f6.3|    | correction Pentax  |Super    |25- | Auto with   5.7"x3.3" 24 oz    two 3v    Y  Y  N  N IQZoom  |38mm f4  |3200| backlight     2.6"    (680 g)  lithium 105     |to 105mm |    | correction         | f7.8    |    | Ricoh   |Zoom     |64- | Auto with   5.5"x2.9" 12.7 oz  one 6v    Y  Y  N  N Shot-   |38mm f3.5|3200| backlight    x2.1"    (360 g)  lithium master  | to      |    | correction Zoom    |76mm f6.7|    | Vivitar |35mm f5.6|100-| Auto        4.2"x2"   7 oz     one 3v    Y  Y  N  N AF 1000 |         |1000|              x2.5"    (198 g)  lithium Yashica | Built-in|64- | Auto with   5.1"x2.7" 9.7 oz   one 6v    Y  Y  Y  N   T-3   |CarlZeiss|1600| backlight    x2"      (275 g)  lithium         | 35mm    |    | footnotes: 1- Submersible to 15 feet            2- Submersible to 10 feet            *- No lithium batteries    CARDBOARD AND DISPOSABLE: SINGLE-USE CAMERAS    Have you ever wanted to haul your SLR out in a downpour or expose your point-and-shoot to a 40 mph sandblasting, just to get a few exposures of how well your tent was holding up (and your tentmate wasn’t)? "No way!" you say. "Water, sand, and cameras just don’t mix!" How about letting the kids loose with a lens for a while? "Even worse!" you say. "They’d be back with a bag of broken glass and a few mangled gears."    Now there’s an answer: the new single-use cameras.    These lightweight and inexpensive one-way cameras are constructed of a cardboard box with a plastic interior. They come already loaded with film and produce suprisingly good-quality images with a plastic fixed-focal- length lens and fixed-speed shutter.    Two members of Kodak’s family of single-use cameras are of particular interest to backpackers. They’re each priced under $14.00 [U.S.], weigh around three ounces, and offer features previously available only in expensive specialty cameras.    My favorite is the panoramic Stretch 35. The camera comes with 12 exposures of Kodak Gold 200 and uses a 25mm f12 lens to produce 3.5"-by-10" pictures – twice the width of standard negative.    A great backup for stormy weather is the Weekend 35. This waterproof camera comes with 24 exposures of Kodak Gold 400 and is wrapped in a durable plastic cover that will keep things dry to a depth of 10 feet.    The obvious question in this time of overflowing landfills is why would BACKPACKER plug a throwaway product? "These aren’t throwaways," says Kodak spokesman Mike Sullivan. "It’s a closed loop – the cameras come back for processing." Early this year, Kodak established a program to help photo- finishers recycle 35mm casettes and plastic film canisters, and as we went to press, they were finalizing plans to recycle the plastic interiors of their single-use cameras. "At first, it’s going to cost us more money," admits Sullivan, "but it’s obviously the right thing to do." End of article.

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    With the number of threads recurring on this matter, wouldn’t it have been easier had we had a backpacking cameras FAQ? =20

=09I would like one too! If there is r.b FAQ, I’m ready to give my 2cents for it. =09Tapio V=E4ist=F6

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    With the number of threads recurring on this matter, wouldn’t it have been easier had we had a backpacking cameras FAQ?                                                   Matt Delevoryas

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I am out in the elements a lot and the Pentax IQ-Zoom WR is the best thing out there.  It has all of the features of any other camera and is more or less waterproof (but won’t ‘take’ pictures underwater).  I use it WW kayaking and have had no trouble with it. True, it only goes down to 32mm, but zooms to 90mm and has a remote for doing those still shots where you need a cable. Happy shooting (pictures)! Robb

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I am out in the elements a lot and the Pentax IQ-Zoom WR is the best thing out there.  It has all of the features of any other camera and is more or less waterproof (but won’t ‘take’ pictures underwater).  I use it WW kayaking and have had no trouble with it.

I have this camera as well. It has been submerged both with the power off and with the power on and lens out (a no-no according to the manual and the guy who sold it to me) and is still OK.  Mine has been pretty well abused, and has held up well and takes really good shots for a compact "point and shoot".  I’ve recommended it to a few of my friends and would not hesitate do do so again.

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I own the Olympus IS-100 (European version of the IS-10). It is an perfect camera with a fine lense. I bought an convertor so the zoom range is 28-180mm. You are right it is relatively bulky, but the weight is low. In Europe they now sell a newer version of the IS-100, it has a longer range in time (till 60 sec)

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I

I just purchased one for mountaineering, backpacking and rock climbing.   At that time (last summer) there wasn’t a good waterproof or water resistant camera with the important features all there so don’t be surprised if you can’t get that feature. Look for a zoom that covers pretty wide (say 35 or less) to get those landscapes and greater than 80 (say 100) for zooming in on more distant subjects.  That will narrow selections down quite a bit.  I also required some feature that allows me to bracket or over/underexpose in steps so I can correct for bright backgrounds, etc.  You can’t take decent pictures without that or some monkeying around (sometimes you can fake out the exposure by locking on another scene–yuck what fun).  There are only about two cameras with that capability.  Similarly, the ability to use a fill flash is quite useful. You need a timer so you can jump into the photo.  A camera that beeps or flashes (beep is better) as the timer countsdown helps prevent those shots of you coming back to see if it took the picture yet. The one I got is expensive–Nikon ZoomTouch 800 but it works great. Now, if you asked me what I’d like if I could design my own camera for backpacking… Brian C. Wadell Guided Wave Solutions RF, uW, and Test Hardware and Software (617)-942-WAVE

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA. I’ve used the Yashica  T4 (including Date Stamp feature) for about 3 years on my backpacking trips (about 120 days).  Have found it to be more than adequate for my basic "point-and-shoot" interest.  Would not hesitate to recommend it to any non-hobbyist/professional whose interest is also in a basic "point-and-shoot" camera.

I just bought the new Super Yashica T4 and got my first prints back from an ice climbing trip.  The pictures were equal to the quality from my larger olympus IS3 that also takes great phots.  I was really impressed wither  small size the the T-4; fits in a shirt pocket while climbing. Bob —        Bob Broeking in Montgomery,AL (I am only here 8 months)      " I’ll get the rope…" Anderl Hinterstoisser, North Face of the

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I’ve used the Yashica  T4 (including Date Stamp feature) for about 3 years on my backpacking trips (about 120 days).  Have found it to be more than adequate for my basic "point-and-shoot" interest.  Would not hesitate to recommend it to any non-hobbyist/professional whose interest is also in a basic "point-and-shoot" camera. Previously used a slightly larger/heavier camera with a zoom option. Found that I seldom benefited from use of the zoom and have concluded that it merely added to weight without corresponding benefit. bond  My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked, and it’s  price competitive.  If you like, I’ll trade for one of yours.

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I travelled for half a year through Indonesia and Australia, which are quite moist and hot countries. In Indonesia we have been into the jungle on Sumatra and Irian Jaya. Before we went I asked the same question. Should I bring a very light camera or an waterproof one, etc. I had very good experience with my Canon equipment (AE-1), but I wanted something lighter and auto-focus. I want good quality shots but the journey is more important. I got the newest Canon EOS camera, the EOS-5, together with two lenses from Canon: 28-80 zoom and 75-300 zoom. I also took the flash-light 430EZ, because of the low capacity of the build in one. I also took some filters, of which I used the polarisation-filter most. My camera never failed one moment! It’s now 3 years old and still operating perfectly. The lenses however are a bit of a compromise between weight and functionality. — With kindest regards, Edwin van Ree. Just being happy with my NT powered machine, if not in my Lycoming powered one

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking. snip- So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I bought a Pentax 928 (?), their top-of-the-line point-and-shoot.  I really wanted a waterproof/resistant camera, but found most of them limited.  The 928 has a 28-90 zoom; I agree with Steve that anything longer than a 28mm lens is inadequate for "scenery" shots. The 28mm lens requirement eliminates at least half of the point-and-shoots.   Another feature I find critical is over or under exposure capability.  It is a critical feature if you shoot lots of photos in snow (I’m in Idaho).  I bracket alot of shots (i.e., shoot the same shot normally and with an under and over exposure) to increase my odds of getting the shot just right.  The 928 is pretty small and is completely loaded.  As far as toughness; I’ve only had it 9 months, but it’s been fly fishing, skiing, backpacking, etc. and has exceeded my expectations (e.g., doing a face plant with it in my fanny pack while skiing).  My dealer will handle all warranty work, so even if I have a problem, they’ll deal with it and I avoid the hassle.  To fantastic photos….

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

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Question:

I saw in another post that there is a fly fishing digest on he net.  Does anyone know how to subscribe to this or whaever it takes to find it. sounds real interesting.  please post any info on this fly fishing digest. thanks ken fritts

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I saw in another post that there is a fly fishing digest on he net.  Does anyone know how to subscribe to this or whaever it takes to find it. sounds real interesting.  please post any info on this fly fishing digest. thanks

Please let me know too – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -ken fritts

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