Question:

Can someone explain how to do it well? I find that, no matter how I try to lift the line to ‘toss it’ upstream, it always causes the fly to surge downstream. riverman

Response:

Can someone explain how to do it well? I find that, no matter how I try to lift the line to ‘toss it’ upstream, it always causes the fly to surge downstream. riverman

http://www.uky.edu/~agrdanny/flyfish/faq/faq-6.htm http://www.sexyloops.co.uk/flycasting/tmendingline.shtml http://www.flyfishingjournal.com/archives/fa199810.htm http://www.altrec.com/published/flyfish/skills/gettingamendmindset/ TL MC

Response:

Can someone explain how to do it well? I find that, no matter how I try to lift the line to ‘toss it’ upstream, it always causes the fly to surge downstream.

You could try fishing with Bruiser sometime. He’s the best I’ve ever seen. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Question:

I thought I’d tell you all about an interesting but rather expensive vacation spot I found on the Gulf Coast of Florida.  My wife and kids loved it, and I did a lot of backcountry (saltwater estuary) fly fishing while they recreated in other ways. We stayed four days on Palm Island, just off the coast near Englewood, Florida.  There’s a ferry that shuttles you to the island from the mainland.  The Palm Island Resort is carefully controlled and maintained: you walk everywhere, or use golf-cart shuttles.  The island abounds in wildlife: waterfowl, tortoises, armadilloes, dolpins, and lotsa seashells that aren’t picked over, as they are along other Gulf Coast beaches.  Great beaches, swimming pools and grounds. Activities for little kids and teen-agers, especially during holiday/spring break periods.   There are other (less expensive?) condominiums and rental homes on the island, also known as Don Pedro.  You can probably find them on the Internet. I brought my little Water Otter one-man pontoon boat, launched it in the bay in back of the Island (Rum Bay), and had a great time fly-fishing for 16-to-24-inch snook. You can also rent canoes from the resort.  Rum Bay connects with Lemon Bay, which is usually good for redfish and seatrout, but the weather was cool and my results were not good. I guess it’s better in the spring, when temperatures are higher.  I finally nailed a 24-inch redfish my third day there. There’s even better backcountry fishing about 15 minutes south along the mainland, in the Cape Haze Wildlife Refuge.  You might need to hire a guide for you first trip into this maze of tidewater bays and islands. Just a thought for the fly-fishing fanatic who would like to take spouse and kids along.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought I’d tell you all about an interesting but rather expensive vacation spot I found on the Gulf Coast of Florida.  My wife and kids loved it, and I did a lot of backcountry (saltwater estuary) fly fishing while they recreated in other ways. We stayed four days on Palm Island, just off the coast near Englewood, Florida.  There’s a ferry that shuttles you to the island from the mainland.  The Palm Island Resort is carefully controlled and maintained: you walk everywhere, or use golf-cart shuttles.  The island abounds in wildlife: waterfowl, tortoises, armadilloes, dolpins, and lotsa seashells that aren’t picked over, as they are along other Gulf Coast beaches.  Great beaches, swimming pools and grounds. Activities for little kids and teen-agers, especially during holiday/spring break periods.

Jeez, another one. Don’t anyone read his full post! Fishing in Florida is none existent, there is nothing in the water but moccasin and gators, fleas flies and mosquitoes. The Goby has more fishable water that Florida. It is a waste of time to come here to fish it is either cold or raining all the time. All these fish stories are bought and paid for by guides.

Response:

Okay, so I won’t post again.   I never hired a guide.  Did you read anything about guides in my post?

Response:

Okay, so I won’t post again. I never hired a guide.  Did you read anything about guides in my post?

Popp was just kidding, Professor. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Yes RW I was kidding, I see by another post the prof saw no humor in my post thus rejecting the idea that I was kidding. I thought my post quite humorous to say the least. I’m really heart broken over that. By the way been gone a bit due to another crash. Guess I need to update this old girl. In the previous crash the shop I took it to just reformatted C drive and lost all my drivers and didn’t know how to reinstall them (had to rewrite the system file to allocate memory for the 7 additional serial ports which I don’t use any more) and didn’t know how to share irq’s. so that eliminated the 7 tray cd changer. This time I lost D and E drives so I guess it’s time to upgrade the MB and add new resources. The only thing I wasn’t able to stuff into the myself (cheaper and better) rather than take it back to the shop so it’ll take longer. If you all don’t hear from me for a while you’ll know. I’ll be back.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, so I won’t post again. I never hired a guide.  Did you read anything about guides in my post? Popp was just kidding, Professor. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Question:

When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"? I’m at my Wit’s end here. Thanks.

Response:

Try a LA Habor trick, They strung mono-filiment line ( fishing line) across the areas that the pigeons and seagulls liked to pearch and nest. They can’t see it and they fly right into it and bounce off and sometimes hit the ground. They learn quick that they can’t land there. Cris-cross it like a spider web, as I understant it,  it works very well. Other solution is a tack strip, with small sharp nails, the birds can’t stand on it. I hope this helps, (back to my regular lurk mode) John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"? I’m at my Wit’s end here. Thanks.

Response:

I had the same problem in my old three story house. Instead of a BB gun I used my sons’ Super Soaker squirt gun. It worked OK for a while – they seemd to know when I was gone and planned their activities accordingly. Mark Molnar – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"? I’m at my Wit’s end here. Thanks.

Response:

When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"?

I had a similar problem with the house I bought a few months ago. The blame could be put on the previous owner, who neighbors told me, fed the pigeons. There are a couple of solutions, you can do them yourself or hire a professional (Look under "Bird Control" or "Pest Control" in the yellow pages). – You can put down spikes in strategic locations. – You can put up netting. – You can live trap (OK, the trap catches them alive, but due to – pigeons’ homing instincts you can’t just let them go, so they have   to be killed). http://www.flybye.com/ sells supplies. I went with a local pest control company that put up spikes and netting and tried to live trap. The live trap didn’t work for me; in fact the pigeons had no respect for it as they would walk all over it, but not go in it. It wasn’t cheap to have it done for me: $400 for the spikes and netting (on a 1.5 story house), and $140 for trapping. For a few weeks the spikes and netting only seemed to work a little. A neighbor recommended putting rubber snakes on the roof. I bought a couple of rubber snakes, but I never did get around to putting them on the roof as after a few weeks the pigeon visitation stopped. Another alternative that I thought of was making the roof accessible to cats. I have a few and there are plenty of neighbor cats. I thought of some designs for "cat ladders" but I never had the need to construct one. — Doug Rudoff

Response:

When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"?

A couple of cat would discourage them, particularly if you don’t overfeed them. Otherwise, cover all entrances with 1" poultry netting (aka chicken wire); if they’re nesting in louvers or something on the outside, cover those as well (the wire will be virtually invisible from a distance). Place a radio up there blasting heavy metal or rap at full volume, if it won’t bother your neighbors. Scatter around a few handfulls of moth balls. I’m at my Wit’s end here.

I’ve always wanted to build a street named "Wit", terminating in a cul-de-sac… Gary — "It’s like complaining if wood has grains in it. Wood does have grains in it, and it is still beautiful."  Apple VP Phil Schiller, trying to explain away cracks in the Apple G4 Cube as being "mold marks".

Response:

: Try a LA Habor trick, : They strung mono-filiment line ( fishing line) across the areas that : the pigeons and seagulls liked to pearch and nest. They can’t see it : and they fly right into it and bounce off and sometimes hit the : ground. They learn quick that they can’t land there. : Cris-cross it like a spider web, as I understant it,  it works very : well. Other solution is a tack strip, with small sharp nails, the : birds can’t stand on it. : I hope this helps, (back to my regular lurk mode) : John

: When I moved into this place 3 months ago, I found that there was 3 dozen : pigeons in my gables.  Through a very intense early morning patrol of: : removing nests, slamming doors, making a presence known, building a board : with nail, then putting an owl on the 3rd floor roof, I finally tried to : scare them off with a BB gun.  Is the next step "Rat Nip"? : : I’m at my Wit’s end here. : : Thanks. These sound like good ways which DON’T involve killing. No need to do that. —

Response:

Question:

Carl, These boats differ in their performance.  The Delta, Acadia, Bayou, Keowee and Swifty are all "recreational boats".  The Delta and the Bayou are very similar in performance but one is longer than the other and tracks better. They both have flat hulls and are very good with initial stability but not very good secondary stability.  These boats will track better and be a bit faster than the Swifty and Keowee. The Swifty and Keowee are just knock around boats.  They don’t track well but do maneuver easily.  The Acadia is at the extreme low end of "touring kayaks"  It’s has a little more rocker on it but is made to get out into the easy ocean if desired.  It has good initial and secondary stability.  All of these boats will do flat water, easy class I/II rapids and paddle in bays well.  The Acadia, you can take a step further out in the easy ocean.

I’ve seen Swiftys and Keowees on class II, and I don’t think I’d say that they do it well.  Certainly people have fun in them, but…well, it depends on the class II, I guess.  I think that the more technical the river is, the less fun these boats will be.  Also, I’ve never seen anyone wear a skirt with these — it could be a pretty damp experience.   — ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::         "I would not exchange the sorrows of my heart                 for the joys of the multitude"

Response:

Yes it does depend on the river.  The Chattahoochee in Atlanta would be fine but something that is more technical would not.  That’s why I said easy class I/II rapids.  People have the option of purchasing a skirt with these boats.  The companies make skirts that fit each one.  If a person tells me they want to run some easy class I/II as well as flat water, I tell them they may want to purchase a skirt with it to keep the water out.  On the other hand if they just want to do flat water, there’s no need for a skirt unless they want to get a mini-skirt for splash or paddle drip. Courtney Rapid Adventures – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve seen Swiftys and Keowees on class II, and I don’t think I’d say that they do it well.  Certainly people have fun in them, but…well, it depends on the class II, I guess.  I think that the more technical the river is, the less fun these boats will be.  Also, I’ve never seen anyone wear a skirt with these — it could be a pretty damp experience.

Response:

You can get into a Swifty and yes it will float but it will sit lower in the water and be sluggish.  The Delta would be a better boat for doing what you are wanting to do and be more in your weight range.  If you really liked it, go for it.  It’s a great boat and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed. Courtney Rapid Adventures – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear Courtney WOW- what a great reply…..thanks SO VERY MUCH!!!! As a follow-up- being 6-01/245- will the Swiftie float ??  If so, I think it would be an ideal 1st boat for me…..going to the kids later (if I like it enough to spend more $$$$$)  All I want to do at this point is paddle out a little, or paddle upstream a little (slow river) and flyfish for Bass/Panfish on the way back. I do have to admit though- out of the Delta and Bayou- I liked the Delta MUCH better.  The Bayou just seemed a little squirley compared to the Delta.  I even sat back and pulled my legs out and dangled them in the water in the Delta. A nice way to float down stream .  Couldn’t do that in the Bayou. I guess the thing that keeps me fluctuating towards Perception is their cool web site- maybe their boats are as cool??  Haven’t seen one though- other than on the web . Thanks again!! Carl

Response:

Dear Courtney WOW- what a great reply…..thanks SO VERY MUCH!!!! As a follow-up- being 6-01/245- will the Swiftie float ??  If so, I think it would be an ideal 1st boat for me…..going to the kids later (if I like it enough to spend more $$$$$)  All I want to do at this point is paddle out a little, or paddle upstream a little (slow river) and flyfish for Bass/Panfish on the way back. I do have to admit though- out of the Delta and Bayou- I liked the Delta MUCH better.  The Bayou just seemed a little squirley compared to the Delta.  I even sat back and pulled my legs out and dangled them in the water in the Delta.  A nice way to float down stream .  Couldn’t do that in the Bayou. I guess the thing that keeps me fluctuating towards Perception is their cool web site- maybe their boats are as cool??  Haven’t seen one though- other than on the web . Thanks again!! Carl – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Carl, These boats differ in their performance.  The Delta, Acadia, Bayou, Keowee and Swifty are all "recreational boats".  The Delta and the Bayou are very similar in performance but one is longer than the other and tracks better. They both have flat hulls and are very good with initial stability but not very good secondary stability.  These boats will track better and be a bit faster than the Swifty and Keowee. The Swifty and Keowee are just knock around boats.  They don’t track well but do maneuver easily.  The Acadia is at the extreme low end of "touring kayaks"  It’s has a little more rocker on it but is made to get out into the easy ocean if desired.  It has good initial and secondary stability.  All of these boats will do flat water, easy class I/II rapids and paddle in bays well.  The Acadia, you can take a step further out in the easy ocean. As for the Carolina and Chinook, they are both Touring (sea) kayaks.  They track very well but are harder to turn.  Normally they will come with a rudder to help you with this.  They are both much faster than the above mentioned kayaks.  They have very good initial and secondary stability and both perform beautiful on flat water, easy class I/II rivers, bays and out in the ocean.  Their intended purpose is for actual sea kayaking, flat water and easy rivers. Both companies hold a good warranty (I think 3 years).  Dagger plastic is made of Excel polyethylene whereas Perception is made of Linear. Technically Excel is stronger but both plastics are very good.  Wilderness Systems material is made up of Crosslink.  This is the strongest of materials but a little heavier. Since you tried the Delta and liked it but didn’t like the Bayou, you may also check out the Wilderness Systems Manteo.  You may find you like it a whole lot better than the Pungo.  The hull on these boats are called a tri-hull.  They have excellent initial and secondary stability and track very well.  I have known several people to take them on all the above mentioned waters but they did get a bit nervous when out in the ocean and the waves got big or choppy. If you’re looking at a used boat, take a look to see that the top of the boat is the same color as the bottom of the boat.  People store their kayaks outside allot and the UV rays break down the plastic over time.  If stored indoors the plastic condition should be fine.  Also look for oil canning (where the boat has a bow in it somewhere on the hull, usually under the seat).  I little bow is o.k. but if it looks really wavy, the plastic is getting warn and doesn’t have too much time left before it cracks.   Look for deep gouges as well.  There will always be scratches on a boat and that’s fine but DEEP gouges can be a sign of trouble on the horizon depending on where these gouges are.  For instance, under the seat would be a bad place. Out of all of these boats, I would focus on the Delta, Acadia and Manteo if not planning on really getting out into the ocean.  The Manteo does great in waves and flat water, the Acadia the same but less initial stability and the Delta does better in flat water due to the good initial stability but not that much secondary and is not as wave friendly. If planning on going into the ocean, either the Carolina or Chinook would be good.  I personally like the Carolina the best because of it’s stability and performance. Hope this helped and sorry it’s so long.  I work in a boat store and sell these boats every day and it’s hard to narrow it down to two sentences. Courtney Rapid Adventures Hi: I’m a long time paddler (canoe) that’s brand new to kayaks…..but I’m hooked Tested the Delta today and loved it….haven’t seen the Acadia or Carolina, however from the web the Acadia seems almost exactly like the Delta.  What are your thoughts….which is a better company (product, fit and finish, warranty, support etc) and which is a better boat?  To complicate matters another shop has a used Perception Chinook for the same price as these new boats……. Also, I’m 6′01" and 245lbs…..any large kayakers try the Keowee or even the Swiftie?  I did paddle the WS Pongo and the Dagger Bayou and did not like either (for different reasons). I know this is a long message, but I do hop there are some out there that will have the time to respond…..I’m hopelessly confused Carl

Response:

Carl – Did you try also posting your message to the following newsgroup? rec.boats.paddle.touring You might reach more users who could help you out there. Good luck! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I wanted to thank the two newsgroup members above- they were the only replies to my post.  For the rest of you, PLEASE help me with opinions.  I have no kayak background and thought that this would be the perfect forum to get experienced responses.  My original post is below:- (My sole (current) ambition is to paddle a mile or so upstream and fly-fish downstream)) Hi: I’m a long time paddler (canoe) that’s brand new to kayaks…..but I’m hooked Tested the Delta today and loved it….haven’t seen the Acadia or Carolina, however from the web the Acadia seems almost exactly like the Delta.  What are your thoughts….which is a better company (product, fit and finish, warranty, support etc) and which is a better boat?  To complicate matters another shop has a used Perception Chinook for the same price as these new boats……. Also, I’m 6′01" and 245lbs…..any large kayakers try the Keowee or even the Swiftie?  I did paddle the WS Pongo and the Dagger Bayou and did not like either (for different reasons). I know this is a long message, but I do hop there are some out there that will have the time to respond…..I’m hopelessly confused Carl

Sue

Response:

Carl, These boats differ in their performance.  The Delta, Acadia, Bayou, Keowee and Swifty are all "recreational boats".  The Delta and the Bayou are very similar in performance but one is longer than the other and tracks better. They both have flat hulls and are very good with initial stability but not very good secondary stability.  These boats will track better and be a bit faster than the Swifty and Keowee. The Swifty and Keowee are just knock around boats.  They don’t track well but do maneuver easily.  The Acadia is at the extreme low end of "touring kayaks"  It’s has a little more rocker on it but is made to get out into the easy ocean if desired.  It has good initial and secondary stability.  All of these boats will do flat water, easy class I/II rapids and paddle in bays well.  The Acadia, you can take a step further out in the easy ocean. As for the Carolina and Chinook, they are both Touring (sea) kayaks.  They track very well but are harder to turn.  Normally they will come with a rudder to help you with this.  They are both much faster than the above mentioned kayaks.  They have very good initial and secondary stability and both perform beautiful on flat water, easy class I/II rivers, bays and out in the ocean.  Their intended purpose is for actual sea kayaking, flat water and easy rivers. Both companies hold a good warranty (I think 3 years).  Dagger plastic is made of Excel polyethylene whereas Perception is made of Linear. Technically Excel is stronger but both plastics are very good.  Wilderness Systems material is made up of Crosslink.  This is the strongest of materials but a little heavier. Since you tried the Delta and liked it but didn’t like the Bayou, you may also check out the Wilderness Systems Manteo.  You may find you like it a whole lot better than the Pungo.  The hull on these boats are called a tri-hull.  They have excellent initial and secondary stability and track very well.  I have known several people to take them on all the above mentioned waters but they did get a bit nervous when out in the ocean and the waves got big or choppy. If you’re looking at a used boat, take a look to see that the top of the boat is the same color as the bottom of the boat.  People store their kayaks outside allot and the UV rays break down the plastic over time.  If stored indoors the plastic condition should be fine.  Also look for oil canning (where the boat has a bow in it somewhere on the hull, usually under the seat).  I little bow is o.k. but if it looks really wavy, the plastic is getting warn and doesn’t have too much time left before it cracks.   Look for deep gouges as well.  There will always be scratches on a boat and that’s fine but DEEP gouges can be a sign of trouble on the horizon depending on where these gouges are.  For instance, under the seat would be a bad place. Out of all of these boats, I would focus on the Delta, Acadia and Manteo if not planning on really getting out into the ocean.  The Manteo does great in waves and flat water, the Acadia the same but less initial stability and the Delta does better in flat water due to the good initial stability but not that much secondary and is not as wave friendly. If planning on going into the ocean, either the Carolina or Chinook would be good.  I personally like the Carolina the best because of it’s stability and performance. Hope this helped and sorry it’s so long.  I work in a boat store and sell these boats every day and it’s hard to narrow it down to two sentences. Courtney Rapid Adventures – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I’m a long time paddler (canoe) that’s brand new to kayaks…..but I’m hooked Tested the Delta today and loved it….haven’t seen the Acadia or Carolina, however from the web the Acadia seems almost exactly like the Delta.  What are your thoughts….which is a better company (product, fit and finish, warranty, support etc) and which is a better boat?  To complicate matters another shop has a used Perception Chinook for the same price as these new boats……. Also, I’m 6′01" and 245lbs…..any large kayakers try the Keowee or even the Swiftie?  I did paddle the WS Pongo and the Dagger Bayou and did not like either (for different reasons). I know this is a long message, but I do hop there are some out there that will have the time to respond…..I’m hopelessly confused Carl

Response:

I wanted to thank the two newsgroup members above- they were the only replies to my post.  For the rest of you, PLEASE help me with opinions.  I have no kayak background and thought that this would be the perfect forum to get experienced responses.  My original post is below:- (My sole (current) ambition is to paddle a mile or so upstream and fly-fish downstream)) Hi: I’m a long time paddler (canoe) that’s brand new to kayaks…..but I’m hooked Tested the Delta today and loved it….haven’t seen the Acadia or Carolina, however from the web the Acadia seems almost exactly like the Delta.  What are your thoughts….which is a better company (product, fit and finish, warranty, support etc) and which is a better boat?  To complicate matters another shop has a used Perception Chinook for the same price as these new boats……. Also, I’m 6′01" and 245lbs…..any large kayakers try the Keowee or even the Swiftie?  I did paddle the WS Pongo and the Dagger Bayou and did not like either (for different reasons). I know this is a long message, but I do hop there are some out there that will have the time to respond…..I’m hopelessly confused Carl

Response:

Hi: I’m a long time paddler (canoe) that’s brand new to kayaks…..but I’m hooked Tested the Delta today and loved it….haven’t seen the Acadia or Carolina, however from the web the Acadia seems almost exactly like the Delta.  What are your thoughts….which is a better company (product, fit and finish, warranty, support etc) and which is a better boat?  To complicate matters another shop has a used Perception Chinook for the same price as these new boats……. Also, I’m 6′01" and 245lbs…..any large kayakers try the Keowee or even the Swiftie?  I did paddle the WS Pongo and the Dagger Bayou and did not like either (for different reasons). I know this is a long message, but I do hop there are some out there that will have the time to respond…..I’m hopelessly confused Carl

Response:

paddled the Carolina in a Basic Sea Kayaking course and was pleased with it. It was my first time kayaking and I had no problems.  It is 25 1/4 inches wide so it will be more tippy than the Delta I believe.  I would be reluctant to paddle a kayak with out some instruction.  Oh, I almost forgot, I am 6′ 2" and found the Carolina a little too scrunched up for my legs.  I rented a Current Designs Storm (17′ l  24"w) today and the leg room was better and it was fast, but it was extremely heavy.  Hope this helps some.

Response:

I have had two Dagger white water boats and have had no complaints about their fit or finish. Are you pretty much decided on a day-tripping boat? There are a number of choices out there, in a number of lengths, and it is easy to get "analysis paralysis". Check out the paddling shops in your area and find out about rentals and demo days. Get hooked up with a paddling club or two and you can get exposure to a number of different boats and opinions. Many folks have more than one and might be willing to help you compare. Don’t worry about making the choice. You’re really just buying your *first* kayak, anyway . (ps- one of the boats I have is a Wilderness Systems Seacret, which is plenty wide (I’m 6′1" and weigh 205) and has lots of foot room, and was surprisingly maneuverable and quick… I bought it to serve as a fishing photo platform, but really like it generally. Check and see when the outfitters in your area are selling used equipment…worked for me, and I got it half price! Good luck! — paddlrat living proof that rats can swim! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Question:

You might try using a hypodermic needle to inject some epoxy between the grip and rod. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip. I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank.

The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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[deleted] but the upper half has developed a squeak.

[deleted] Duct tape usage #309. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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I have successfully repaired a grip by doing the following: 1) Get some 2 ton epoxy glue. Do not use the 5 minute stuff or super glue. This glue will take at least 24-36 hours to completely setup. It usually comes in 2 hypodermic syringes that are fused together. 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous. 3) Get a 10 cc hypodermic syringe from a physician friend, dentist or vet. Be sure it is clean. You will ruin this syringe.Get a 20 gauge hypo needle at least 1 inch long. 4) Mix glue while it is warm and insert into the syringe. 5) Insert needle into the cork handle and push the glue into the space. You may need to inject in several places. Put rod aside for at least 24 hours before you flex it. I have used this technique on several rods successfully. The holes made by the needle in the cork are small and have been no problem You can repair them as needed. The first time I tried this, I used a 2cc syringe. I was unsuccessful until I used the larger syringe with a bigger bore needle. The 10 cc with the 20 gauge has worked OK, especially after the warming of the solutions. Good luck and let me know how it works out. Regards, J.

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Snip 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous.

I think Jack means "more viscous" and he’s right, warm it up slightly first. You can also use a hair dryer.

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With all due respect, the viscosity of a solution is, according to physic textbooks:  " the property of a fluid which resists change in the shape or molecular arrangement during flow"  As stated in my post, we heat these solutions in order that they become less viscous and more "runny" if you will. A solution that is more viscous has a greater tendency to resist a change in its shape. Water for instance, is less viscous than molasses. My two cents worth. Jack.

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More viscous, less viscous…. I got the point.  Thanks for the advice all the same.  I’m planning on giving this a try this weekend.  Will let you know how it turns out. Patrick

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All the advice is good. I’d just be careful that you don’t hurt the blank itself when you do this. I could imagine having the rod splinter at the grip from a flaw you put into the blank. Of course it would happen on the 24 inch brown. FlyFisherRay

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

  Yah, Don is correct. But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues. These glues expand in cavities and fill gaps. About 10 years ago I used this type glue for mounting grips. However, the company that mad it took it off the market because of poor shelf life problems. Now there is a new generation of these glues, one Brand Is Elmer’s Pro Bond. These glues have a good open time and a tremendous bonding ability (ask Norm Abrams). Good Luck -Doug Easton

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<snip But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues.

<rest deleted for brevity Yeah, thats me… half an ass.  My wife keeps telling me the seat of my pants look like a family of Bedouins have recently moved out. Patrick  (suffering from no-ass-itis)

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got to your local pharmacy and get a syringe (disposable plastic) and then stop by your local fire station or even a vetrinarian’s office and get a GREAT BIG needle.  just shoot that grip down in there full of glue…..    At least, it seems reasonable to me… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

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Go to a local woodworking store if there is one near you. They sell a hypodermic looking glue injector that is used to push glue into a joint to glue it. If there are no stores near you, go to http://www.todayswoodworker.com I believe you can order it from them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

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Question:

But one perennial that I would never be without would have to be hostas

can someone give some info or a website that gives info on the care of hostas Elaine in Dallas

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But one perennial that I would never be without would have to be hostas can someone give some info or a website that gives info on the care of hostas Elaine in Dallas

Not much to it. Plant em in the shade, water em, occasionally toss some fertilizer under em, and kill snails.  About the only thing that can kill them is total lack of water (or maybe too much as in a bog), everything else just makes them look bad. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

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Question:

I am a flyfishing newbie.  Can someone recommend a good video which teaches the basics of flycasting?  I’m mostly going to be fishing saltwater using 9 weight and heavier rods, casting streamers.  I would especially like to learn to "double haul" and "spey cast".  Thank you for your replies.                                                           Spy in Hawaii

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You might try http://www.troutangler.com and ask Zane or Tom about a video. I’m think they could recommend one to you. — happy trails, Mike & Vivian Foate Rocking Horse Ranch Arvada, Wyoming be sure mosey through our online/ranch bookstore and our music CDs and movies shop! http://www.rockinghorseranch.com

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Question:

Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack.

Response:

Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack.

Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I’m not sure of the model and year of the reel you have, but I not seen a Seamaster under $1,100 in a long time down here. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Bill- Is this an "S" handle reel or the one with the flat plate with the single knob mounted directly to it? If it is the latter and in v/g to exc condition, you might see upwards of $1500 for it. In lesser condition, considerably less. If it is an "S" handle, they are highly collectible in good condition and could bring $1500 to $2000. Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Bill — Try contacting Bob Berger, owner of Bonefish Bob’s, a flyfishing store in Islamorada, FL. Bonefish Bob specializes in used saltwater flyfishing equipment and is an expert in Seamaster reels. Sorry, I don’t have his phone number handy, but I’m sure you can get it from information. BobE. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bill- Is this an "S" handle reel or the one with the flat plate with the single knob mounted directly to it? If it is the latter and in v/g to exc condition, you might see upwards of $1500 for it. In lesser condition, considerably less. If it is an "S" handle, they are highly collectible in good condition and could bring $1500 to $2000. Good luck. Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

: What about Rain-X.  It is basically Silicon based with alcohol.  It works : on winshields and I have seen it use on film projectors for similar purposes : "slickening", etc.  It doesn’t hurt the estar of the films so it might not effect : the fly line.  Any thoughts? It’s your flyline. Go ahead and try it out!  I don’t think it would be a good idea for this product. There are just too many flyline dressings out there for a similar cost. Jon Porter

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Been there, done that, works fine, no guilt (what is 1 gram of Armor-All on my line going to hurt???) Multiply that * a couple of million fly fisherpersons..

OK.  2,000 kg of Armor All in 60 Trillion gallons of water = nothing. I’m not insenstive to the need for environmental responsibility, but like everything else, it can be taken to ridiculous extremes.       Gene

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Re: armor all. I have used it for ten years and it is terrific. It still is. I havent noticed any formula change. Its especially great because its so easy to appy, so you can do it streamside if your line starts to get water logged. GREAT STUFF, and 1/4 the price of commercial dressings, some of which are decidedly "armor all-like". Dale Owens

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Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides…

As I recall, Armor-all is petroleum based? Read the label. If you wouldn’t douse your fly line in gasoline to clean it, don’t use it. -David Buschhorn

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Multiply that * a couple of million fly fisherpersons.. OK.  2,000 kg of Armor All in 60 Trillion gallons of water = nothing. I’m not insenstive to the need for environmental responsibility, but like everything else, it can be taken to ridiculous extremes.

I agree Gene. I posted that I used Armorall a couple of days ago and got a couple flames from the eco-correct crowd. I suppose they all ride their bicycles to get to their fishing holes. And I’m sure none of them use lead split shot, right? Dale

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As I recall, Armor-all is petroleum based? Read the label. If you wouldn’t douse your fly line in gasoline to clean it, don’t use it.

Uh, gee, come to think of it, your fly line is "petroleum based" too. I don’t use armor-all on my fly line for the same reason I don’t use it on my car interior.  It makes it look great for a few days, after which it dries out and looks worse than it did in the first place. — -Wayne Trzyna

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Multiply that * a couple of million fly fisherpersons.. OK.  2,000 kg of Armor All in 60 Trillion gallons of water = nothing. I’m not insenstive to the need for environmental responsibility, but like everything else, it can be taken to ridiculous extremes. I agree Gene. I posted that I used Armorall a couple of days ago and got a couple flames from the eco-correct crowd. I suppose they all ride their bicycles to get to their fishing holes. And I’m sure none of them use lead split shot, right? Dale

        well, dale and gene, add the voice of this southern liberal to your chorus of amazement:  how can these people be real.  the  enemy is their republican congressman, not someone who uses amorall on their fly line, auto, hat, or ass.         a. wayne harrison

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Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… (may not be too environmental-friendly though) — Lockheed Martin EIS Orlando, FL

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 Armor-all as a flyline dressing? No, Frank, not yet, but I use it on my rods.  It prevents  the ‘grabbing & dragging’ of mono in the rain and seems to improve casting accuracy. Grant

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: Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it : would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… This stuff is very effective as a flyline dressing. The product is a plasticizer, which is good a filling in minor cracks and scuffing on the line. It also does lube the line and make it very slippery. If you have never dressed the line before, you will see an increase in your casting distance. The line may float higher too. : (may not be too environmental-friendly though) The trick here is to buff off the excess with a clean, dry rag. When I apply the stuff to my lines, I use two coats for the first time. Let it dry, and then run it through a rag. This will remove the excess that you would otherwise see as an "oil slick" on the surface of the water. Jon Porter –If you are concerned about enviromentally friendly fishing, try products put out by Loon Outdoors. All their stuff is  earth friendly!

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Been there, done that, works fine, no guilt (what is 1 gram of Armor-All on my line going to hurt???)

Multiply that * a couple of million fly fisherpersons….. "What is 1 gram going to hurt ?" DuPont and Co. 1976 -Dan-

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Been there, done that, works fine, no guilt (what is 1 gram of Armor-All on my line going to hurt???) Multiply that * a couple of million fly fisherpersons….. -Dan-

Then divide it by 10 million miles of stream dispersing that product and factor it by the amount of gasoline you burn getting to your favorite fishing hole to see that theatrics are not a productive use of your time. Charley

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Frank Hinson) writes: Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… Used to be good for fly lines, but they changed their formula a number of years ago and you don’t want to use it on your lines now.  They will work great for a short while but will crack prematurely.  With the new coatings on the lines and the new formula for Armour-all, l the plasticisers (which keep the line supple) are prematurely released out of the pvc coating causing cracks and deteriation.  Leeches the life out of your lines. "303 Protectant" is a similar product that will keep your lines slippery longer by adding plasticisers to the coatings instead of leaching them out.  You can get it by the bottle at auto parts places or in single use pads from Orvis.                                                              Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

What about Rain-X.  It is basically Silicon based with alcohol.  It works on winshields and I have seen it use on film projectors for similar purposes "slickening", etc.  It doesn’t hurt the estar of the films so it might not effect the fly line.  Any thoughts?

Response:

(Frank Hinson) writes: Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides…

Used to be good for fly lines, but they changed their formula a number of years ago and you don’t want to use it on your lines now.  They will work great for a short while but will crack prematurely.  With the new coatings on the lines and the new formula for Armour-all, l the plasticisers (which keep the line supple) are prematurely released out of the pvc coating causing cracks and deteriation.  Leeches the life out of your lines. "303 Protectant" is a similar product that will keep your lines slippery longer by adding plasticisers to the coatings instead of leaching them out.  You can get it by the bottle at auto parts places or in single use pads from Orvis.                                                               Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… (may not be too environmental-friendly though) — Lockheed Martin EIS Orlando, FL I think the guides in Florida have been using Armor-all for over 20 years. I have never tried it. I understand that armour all used to be a very popular line cleaner and dressing, however, they have apparently changed their formulation and the new stuff cause fly lines to leach.  It is best if you od not use it. Ian Scott Wishbone Custom Rods http://credit.headwaters.com/wishbone

William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

Response:

Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… (may not be too environmental-friendly though)

Been there, done that, works fine, no guilt (what is 1 gram of Armor-All on my line going to hurt???)       Gene

Response:

Anyone ever tried using Armor-all as a flyline dressing? Seems like it would help reduce the friction of the line passing through the guides… (may not be too environmental-friendly though) — Lockheed Martin EIS Orlando, FL

I understand that armour all used to be a very popular line cleaner and dressing, however, they have apparently changed their formulation and the new stuff cause fly lines to leach.  It is best if you od not use it. Ian Scott Wishbone Custom Rods http://credit.headwaters.com/wishbone

Response:

Question:

 So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states?

I know of a place in Ogden, Utah, just north of Salt Lake where there is huge junkyard.  They have a different area there where you can get all kinds of army trailers, sorry but I don’t remember what the place is called. But you can see it from the freeway on the West side. Joe

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That would be Smith & Edwards Surplus I mentioned in my previous post…. — Scott Weiser ****** "I love the Internet, I no longer have to depend upon my friends, family and co-workers, I can annoy people WORLDWIDE!" ****** The opinions expressed are my own.  If I was a laywer, you’d be paying big bucks for this.  All complaints should be

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Now that I nolonger have the luxury space of my Bronco with the Wrangler; I’m in the market for a new/used military jeep trailer. Does anyone know where I can purchase one? The Army did away with the Jeep trailer when they went to the Hummer, so I know there has to be thousands of them out there somewhere. The local Army/Navy store had some well used ones a couple of years ago and was selling them for $350.00. I suspect with the rust and artic camo paint job that they came from some units in Alaska. So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states? TIA, Dennis 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4 Dennis Noes, 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L SE, Atlanta, GA.,USA UNFWDA-SFWDA Four Wheel Drive Education Awareness Rep. Member of United FWD Assoc., Southern 4WD Assoc., Tread Lightly and Georgia Bounty Runners 4WD Club 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4

Try No Excuses, Inc. located in New Eygpt, NJ. # 1 800 923 JEEP (5337) or  609 758 3833 This is the best place to go for hard to find parts for Jeeps.

Response:

Dennis, I placed my order for one of the last 4.0L YJ’s last July.  While waiting for the promised October delivery, I faced with the same dilema of where to put my camping goodies along with my wife and kids when the Jeep arrived.   I went looking for a trailer.  Used military trailers, I soon found, are very difficult to come by.  I found a company north of Sacramento (Helter Mfg. or something like that) that makes a very well designed Jeep trailer.  However, the $2400 price sent me back to scouring military surplus lots with little success. In early August, while fly-fishing in Idaho, I stopped for a meal at Smitty’s in Idaho Falls.  After ordering, while waiting for my food, I looked across the parking lot and there was an army surplus store with a 1/4 ton military trailer parked in front. About that time my food came,  I woofed and went over to investigate.  As I walked in to the store, a guy was writing a check for the trailer.  When I asked if any more were available, I was told to call the next day and talk to Dana the owner. To make a long story shorter, Dana had purchased 75 of these M146 trailers from a base in Montana.  All were in very good shape and were priced firm at $450 a piece.  At the time he still had "several" left in his other warehouse in Shelly, ID.  Apparently a Las Vegas 4×4 club had purchased 10 sight-unseen and were on there way up for them later that month.   I purchased a nice brigadier general’s trailer complete with a star on the back and a pintle hitch for another $30.  The trailer was built new in 1967 and still has the origonal rubber.  My biggest problem was adapting the 1 1/4" mini receiver hitch on my minivan to pintle hitch.  With a little engineering and a little help from a friend in Island Park we rigged up the hitch.  I pulled the trailer down to my home in the S.F. Bay area with no problems. My first purchase for my YJ when it finally arrived in mid November was a Tomken Machine bumper with a 2 inch receiver.  It is a well engineered bumper.  The trailer pulls great and I am in the process of completing some minor body work and giving it a paint job.  They are a well engineered trailer with a parking brake and the full pivet pintle eye.  I have been told that the springs, shocks and hubs are all interchangable with an M38A1, but I have not been able to confirm that.  I can confirm that I still get 20 mpg pulling it behind my Grand Caravan. I was back in Idaho Falls in early October.  Four trailers were parked in front.  I can’t remember the name of the surplus store, but I imagine that a call to Smitty’s Pancake house would get you their number.   It’s a long way from Georgia, but good luck. Bill

Response:

Sorry if this is redeudant. I missed the ezrlier part of this thread. I can lead you to scads of 1/4 ton military jeep trailers. I got one myself with a surge break system (!) for the excellent price of $400. Best place to find dealers is Military Vehicles Magazine. See my earlier and I’ll send you the detalis on the mag and maybe a few dealer names. I am kicking myself for not jumping on a 3/4 ton with surge brakes for $850 a few months back, but storage and ready cash were a bit of a problem then. These things are dynamite-like having a pickup truck at your disposal with no holding costs and very minimal maintenence costs. Oh well, maybe in the future.

Response:

By the way, I paid $325 for the trailer and $20 for a brand new spare tire on a rim at DRMO.

Response:

Check with any local Air Force or Army base and ask for information on DRMO. They’ll know what your talking about. I bought mine up here in Alaska. I’m in the AF and this is where me and my friends got ours along with spare tires for the trailers. I’ve had mine for two years now and it’s still in good shape. It was made in 1964 and has a little rust but it’s only on the surface, it can be sanded off easily. They are excellent for towing off-road or on the highway. I can hardly tell that it’s behind me.

Response:

Now that I nolonger have the luxury space of my Bronco with the Wrangler; I’m in the market for a new/used military jeep trailer. Does anyone know where I can purchase one?  The Army did away with the Jeep trailer when they went to the Hummer, so I know there has to be thousands of them out there somewhere. The local Army/Navy store had some well used ones a couple of years ago and was selling them for $350.00. I suspect with the rust and artic camo paint job that they came from some units in Alaska.  So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states?  TIA,  Dennis 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4  Dennis Noes, 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L SE, Atlanta, GA.,USA  UNFWDA-SFWDA Four Wheel Drive Education Awareness Rep.  Member of United FWD Assoc., Southern 4WD Assoc.,  Tread Lightly and Georgia Bounty Runners 4WD Club 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4

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So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states? TIA,

Dennis Hopefully some of these places may be able to help, check out our new Military Vehicle Digest as it develops online: http://www.4×44u.com/pub/k2/mvd/mvd.htm PS – Dennis, we’ve wanted one of those ourselves! Antelope Valley Equipment and Truck Parts 44532 Trevor Lancaster, CA 93534 (805) 945-6788 Sarafan Auto Supply 23 North Madison Ave. Springvalley, NY 10977 (914) 356-1080 Ordinance Unlimited 20945 Osborne St. Canoga Park, CA 91304 (818) 700-2905 Thomas W. Murry Box 214 Dover, DE  19903 (302) 736-1790 Brentmullins Jeep Parts PO Box 9599 College Station, TX 77842 (409) 690-0203 Frank’s Surplus PO Box 555 Bryn Athyn, PA 19009 (215) 947-5616 Military Vehicle Locator Service PO Box 1562 Fort Collins, CO 80522 (303) 221-4920 fax/phone Rapco Parts Co. (817) 872-2403 All American Military Goods 726 West Michigan PO Box 143 New Carlisle, IN  46552 (219) 654-8081 Army Jeep Parts PO Box 1006 Bristol, PA 19007 (215) 788-6012

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Try: U.S. Surplus Expediters PO Box 158 1000 East 1700 South Clearfield, UT  84015-0158 801-825-3489 They have numerous M-101 1/4 Ton trailers, some better than others, a couple were pretty cherry with little or no rust.  They also have some M-105 trailers, the larger ones with 110"x 83" ID on box, used with the deuce & 1/2, which have 9.00 x 20" Budd wheels, good for HUMMERs with a bit of lowering to get the pintle to match up and a new axle with electric brakes. Tell them I referred you. Also: Smith & Edwards Surplus 3936 N. Hiway 126 Ogden, UT 84404 801-731-1120 They have *acres* of trailers and old military surplus. Don’t buy one sight unseen unless you are willing to put up with rust, body damage, etc. and repair it.  Insist on pictures and serial number verification.  Better yet, grab a plane to Salt Lake and inspect it yourself, or hire me to go out and broker for you.  If you are *really* interested, let me know e-mail *this weekend*, as I am going out to Salt Lake on Sunday the 7th. I’m sure we can work something out as far as inspecting/brokering/shipping. Don’t know where you can get the even smaller M-100, which is the genuine "Jeep" trailer, but if you have an immediate need, I can check with a couple of sources.  The key is how much you are willing to pay, how fast you can jump on the deal, and how much you trust the dealer.   I got an absolutely cherry M-105 rebuilt and repainted in 1989 with *no* rust for $450, was quoted $450-650 on M-101’s, and once paid $2000 for an M-101 with HMMWV hubs and a hydraulic surge brake.  As you can see, quite a variance. Regards, — Scott Weiser P.S.  *Always* insist on proper title paperwork, with the proper signatures of the original purchaser at the government auction and the proper chain of title for each owner after. I bought a trailer with the "original" DRMO paperwork from a guy in California, only to find that the DRMO listed someone else, a guy in Utah for which my guy was selling the trailer, as the "owner of record", and Colorado refused to title the trailer, citing the "shadow ownership" as title fraud, a felony. I had to send the paperwork back to the guy I bought it from, pay sales tax in California (twice what I would have paid here), and pay for California plates and registration which I never used, all to get a valid California title which Colorado would accept when applying for re-titling in Colorado.  Cost me about $200 extra. Some states are not as rigid, but you’d better check *first* to see what you need in the way of title papers for an out-of-state purchase of surplus government vehicles.  Make proper titling part of the *written* sales agreement, so you have an out if you can’t get it titled for some reason. ****** "I love the Internet, I no longer have to depend upon my friends, family and co-workers, I can annoy people WORLDWIDE!" ****** The opinions expressed are my own.  If I was a laywer, you’d be paying big bucks for this.  All complaints should be

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