Question:

My wife and I are looking to spend that last three weeks in Nov on the White River fly fishing.  We would prefer a cabin on the river and would posibly like a guide or two while there.  Does anyone have a suggestion of lodging and guide? — Stay connected, Carl D. Sgro

Response:

Carl – I would Highly recommend the Fulton’s lodge – Dale and Rona have a nice situation going – I have stayed there many times and they are the hosts for SRG(Southern Rodmakers Gathering) – here is a link with their info – http://www.mtnhome.net/fultons/ Wayne

Response:

Carl – I would Highly recommend the Fulton’s lodge – Dale and Rona have a nice situation going – I have stayed there many times and they are the hosts for SRG(Southern Rodmakers Gathering) – here is a link with their info – http://www.mtnhome.net/fultons/ Wayne

I have stayed at Dale Fulton’s place too and will be back again.  He also owns a nice fly shop there in MT Home, called Blue Ribbon. You will need to call ahead though as it is a popular place.  Well situated for both the White and the N.Fork River nearby (when the generators hose up the water and you’re without in the boat dept.) If you get the chance make a date to hit the Rainbow Lodge on the Little Red too.  Nice large trout and good access. K

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Question:

Hello all, Now that it’s midwinter, I am doing much fishing in my mind, thinking about the season to come.  I have thought about how the focus on my fishing during the 10 years I have lived in New York has gone from nymphing to dry fly fishing.  I do all styles and approaches, but I do find that I seek out situations where I am most likely to get them on top. I probably should nymph more than I do, because you can do it without a hatch, and there are better chances of getting bigger fish.  I just get annoyed how deep nymphing is better suited with different rods, lines, and leaders than dry fly fishing.  I find it awkward to switch back and forth on the stream, and I refuse to carry 2 rods onto the water. One thing about the technique – I do most nymphing in close – with a rodlength or 2 of line out, no more.  I find it very hard to control the drift beyond that.  Can anybody give me some discussion about nymphing in close/far away?  About good nymphing leader recipies(I tie my own)?  About how spooky fish react to your closeness to them? Pete Collin

Response:

Peter, I think you’re doing the right thing restricting you line length, I’m very disciplined about that using a maximum of one myself while searching pocket water and runs.  If I see a fish, I will lengthen line as the circumstances allow rather than approach to close. It does take a fair bit of concentration which can be nice to alleviate with a dry fly presentation every now and then – often I find the fish taking the dry will take the nymph quite readily. I’m happy to use the same leader for both dry and nymph – adding or deleting tippett where required … length is a rod length (7.5 – 9ft) and thats it. Formulae is the simple 60 20 20 occasionally I’ll use a furled butt section of 4lb mono usually where there is room to swing the rod for a decent hook set.   What is important is the nymph swimming level, especially when searching water for fish that are not visible.  Usually tight to the bottom requires a fly somewhere down there to attract their interest. However you prefer to get the fly down, weight in the fly or a shotted up leader is immaterial as long as it is in the zone.   Casting might not seem important in such circumstance but it is … if you can cast (by whatever means) so that the leader doesn’t straighten properly the fly will sink further than if it does straighten.  I sometimes think it is forgotten that this is something that can be used to great effect in controlling the depth of a nymph for long or short distance nymphing with weighty flies. The Flies themselves are an interesting topic … Steve

Response:

One thing about the technique – I do most nymphing in close – with a rodlength or 2 of line out, no more.  I find it very hard to control the drift beyond that.  Can anybody give me some discussion about nymphing in close/far away?

No simple answers here, Peter. Nymphing is a big topic. It’s worth a few books and quite a few have been written. There are a variety of techniques that allow you to nymph in close, as far as you can cast, just under the surface, bouncing on the bottom, etc. etc. etc. It take times to learn the different techniques, more time to get decent with them, but what’s probably the most difficult to learn is where and when to use the different techniques. Like dry fly fishing, control is much easier if your casts are short. If the situation warrants it, you are going to be more successful fishing in close. Like Jeff and Dave pointed out, you can often get very close to fish when they are feeding on the bottom, especially in broken water. They are much more secure than fish feeding on the surface. However, there are several other things that dictate how close you can get. Because of a number of factors, trout in some streams and rivers are more spooky. Much tougher to get close to these fish without spooking them. On placid sections, it is often difficult to get close to fish without spooking them, etc. On big rivers, depth and current speed are going to prevent you from wading close enough for a short cast to many prime areas. For example, the most productive area we fished at Henry’s Fork this fall, required long casts to reach some of the best lies. I also dislike rerigging all the time on the water. IMO, for most nymphing, a short leader butt with a couple of long tippet sections is better for nymphing than a traditional tapered leader.  The thinner tippet sections allow the fly to sink more readily, act more naturally and also allow you to use less weight (which I like). However, more often, I just add a long tippet section to a regular tapered leader. That way it’s much easier to switch back to a dry. This does mean, at least when fishing deep water, my leader is very long. Willi

Response:

One thing about the technique – I do most nymphing in close – with a rodlength or 2 of line out, no more.  I find it very hard to control the drift beyond that.  Can anybody give me some discussion about nymphing in close/far away?

Another thing – learn the "tuck cast".  It’s great for shorter distance casting in pocket water when you need to get the nymph down to fish-catchin’ level ASAP.  Much easier with a split shot near the nymph or a weighted nymph.

Response:

One thing about the technique – I do most nymphing in close – with a rodlength or 2 of line out, no more.  I find it very hard to control the drift beyond that.  Can anybody give me some discussion about nymphing in close/far away?

A longer rod certainly helps.  In fact, I’m thinking of going to a 9.5 to 10 foot rod for heavy nymphing and might ask about that here soon.  For closer nymphing with a "high stick" (controlling depth and slack by raising and lowering your rod), I think you’re better off with no strike indicator. This is especially true in deeper, broken water with rocks where the depth keeps changing.  The farther away you get, especially if you are not sight nymphing in clear water, and especially if the depth is constant, the more a strike indicator will help you.  With steady water flow (not a lot of broken water and mixed currents), you can get in some fairly long casts with an indicator.  About good nymphing leader recipies(I tie my own)?

Tying your own is convenient if you use a foam indicator or other indicator that you can slide around, since you have a number of knots that act as "stops" for the indicator.  As far as material, Maxima works good but it’s not the strongest per diameter, so I’m looking for something else in the tippet.  Flouro is too damn expensive, and Orvis Super Strong has broken a lot on me – it’s strong, but it’s simply not very abrasion resistant IMO. Look up Borger’s "uni-body" leader if you want simplicity.  With a bit of lead on the leader, we’re not going to quibble over the whether the 6th section should be 15 or 17" for best turnover, eh?  About how spooky fish react to your closeness to them?

In bouldery pocket water with deeper runs and chop on top, you can get virtually on top of them (assuming you can’t see them).  In fact I’ve gone in with my arm up to my shoulder to pull out a snag, and continued to fish the run and catch fish.  In smoother spring creek type water, and for sight nymphing, ask elsewhere

Response:

I’m confused by this statement. Would you please elaborate? — Citizen Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m happy to use the same leader for both dry and nymph – adding or deleting tippett where required … length is a rod length (7.5 – 9ft) and thats it.

Response:

Peter Collin writes: One thing about the technique – I do most nymphing in close – with a rodlength or 2 of line out, no more.  I find it very hard to control the drift beyond that.  Can anybody give me some discussion about nymphing in close/far away?  About good nymphing leader recipies(I tie my own)?  About how spooky fish react to your closeness to them? Pete Collin

Hi, Peter.  Most of my nymphing is within 15 feet of me, but there are the occasions (quite often, really) when an actual distance cast can be of some use.  Up and across (with or without an indicator) seems to work best for me. I am talking, maybe, 30 or so feet.   I have found that the nymph must get down to the bottom for best results.  The best way I have found to do this is to use non-toxic split shot.  If you do not know the water you will have to experiment with the size/amount of shot.  Your leader/line or indicator should move slower than the surface water (unlike dry fly fishing).  The water near the bottom of the pool/run/etc is moving slower than the surface water.  Therefore, you have to slow down your drift.  Gary Borger in a recent tutorial stated that if your indicator is moving the same speed as the surface water, you have to add more weight (split shot, bead head, whatever).  If I use an indicator, it is usually the yarn type with the o-ring attached.  Put some floatant on and it never sinks. I prefer a leader somewhere between 7 1/2 to 9 feet, with an additional 3 or so feet of tippet.  I generally use a 4x leader with 4x or 5x fluorocarbon tippet.  About 3 feet above the fly (at the leader/tippet knot), I place my shot.  I seldom fish a double. To switch over to dries, simply snip off the fluorocarbon tippet and add 3 feet of mono 5x.  I always use a floating line, btw.  It is easier to mend.  My favorite rod is a Sage SP 9 foot 4 weight. Spooky fish?  I’ve caught fish right at my feet on Maine, MA, NY, PA, and NM waters.  The fish in Idaho were a little more spooky and most of my hook-ups were at a distance, up and across.  The fish in Labrador were very spooky and in four years, I managed to catch only 2 small (2 – 3 pounds) brook trout on caddis worms.  It is a dry fly fisherman’s heaven!  d;0) A lengthy reply……sorry.  HTH Dave

Response:

Question:

BTW, why not include the arbor knot? You have to attach the backing to the spool somehow. Yeah, but the guys at Orvis do that one.

They probably tie your needle knots, too. How many other people in ROFF have been streamside with a supposedly experienced flyfisherman who, when it came time to tie on a leader, had no idea how to do it? The clinch knot and nail knot both can be replaced by the Uni knot if you like.

But EVERY knot can be replaced by the clinch knot. Just ask Wayno if he ever reappears. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

How many other people in ROFF have been streamside with a supposedly experienced flyfisherman who, when it came time to tie on a leader, had no idea how to do it?

This has happened to me numerous times.  Also, many people apparently change their ( looped ),leaders at an amazing rate, because they are unable to even tie tippet on.   If you have enough time and money I don

Question:

I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

Response:

Pole?  Oh, boy are you gonna hear about that! Just head out to your local flyfishing shop and take a beginners class.  You’ll get to use their rods and find what appeals to you.  It’ll be worth the $ in the long run.   —  markb I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

"Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."  – E. Philips

Response:

I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

  Might I suggest the BASTARD bamboo fly pole from Grand old American George Gerkhe?   Ah, shoot, you’re probably serious aren’t you?  St.  Croix is, I think, the best of the entry-level rods.

Response:

stacmarsh wrote I am an average fisher and I would like to know if anyone out there would know of a good pole brand to buy that is now too expensive but gets the job done

Mr. Marsh (or is it Mr. Math) Please repeat after me: This is my rod.    I called it a pole. Now the ghost of ‘ol Izaak    Has damned my soul.  ;-) A "pole" is one of those bamboo things with some kite string tied on the end … you know … like George makes As for your question, I’m not too sure how to answer until I know what you mean by "not too expensive".  For example, since high end rods (graphite) can get upwards of $400 these days, a Sage Discovery Series at around $200+ is inexpensive by comparison.  And if you are not real experienced, it will be awhile before you can appreciate the differences between a good rod, such as a Sage DS, and one of the more expensive models. I started out with a rod that was less than $50, but it really is pretty much of a dog.  If you really intend to stay in the sport, a couple of C notes is worth it for a rod that’ll keep you satisfied for several years. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Question:

Grow up and get a life!  If you have a "head in the sand" approach to flyfishing that’s fine, but don’t try to foist it on the rest of us.  Most fly fishers enjoy a variety of approaches to catch, and often release, a variety of fish species.   To each his or her own.

Response:

A nicely weighted nymph, quietly cast upstream, on a dead drift, is truly the only sporting way to pursue the honorable Mr. Trout.                                                        __ john quill taylor                                     / / writer at large                                      / /   Hewlett-Packard, Storage Systems Division    __     /_/ / Boise, Idaho U.S.A.                         /_/  __ _ Telephone: (208) 396-2328 (MST = GMT – 7)     /  \  / Snail Mail: Hewlett-Packard                    / \             11413 Chinden Blvd                 \             Boise, Idaho 83714                   _/             Mailstop 852                            _/                                                   _/       "When in doubt, do as doubters do." – jqt –                   haiti, rwanda, cuba, bosnia, … we have a list,              where is our schindler?

Response:

Question:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. — Gerald Strom University of Illinois at Chicago

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. —

cut it off…put the dry on you hatband of drying patch… if this makes your tippet too short then cut this off and replace it too… TimW

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks.

Hi Gerald First off there is no such thing as a dumb question.  That’s what this group is all about — questions and answers. When you want to change a fly just cut one off and tie on another.  There are special nippers made for this purpose OR if you don’t have one a small finger nail clipper will work just fine.  When I first started I used a finger nail clipper on a loop of old fly line around my neck for several years. There are several different knots used to tie on flies.  You can go to the library and find a book on fly fishing or check at your local fly shop.  There is a neat little book (about 3"x5") on knots available today.  I personally like the Uni Knot but there are other good knots as well.  Many of the fly line manufacturers include knot tying instructions with there fly line.  Also I have an old aluminum Perine fly box that has the knot tying instruction on the front of the box. Keep asking the questions and I’m sure you’ll find someone more experienced on this group who will help. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT(96 catalog)

Response:

Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this?  Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks. —

I must admit that I have never thought about it till now.  basicly i cut (bite) the old one off,  I guess that this results in the tippet ( end of the leader) becomming shorter and shorter.   In the UK you can get in small "snap" links from Mustard which are designed for easy fly changing Julian

Response:

Just cut fly off as close to hook as as possible then tie on new fly.Best to have someone show you improved clinch knot or uni knot

best of luck -jkralic

Response:

Heck, if you haven’t caught the darn thing in a tree behind you, you can’t be that dumb… Just snip it off and buy lots of tippet.

Response:

writes: Okay, I tie on a dry fly and go out and fish.  But I don’t catch anything and want to change my fly (as opposed to closing my fly).  How do I do this? Cut the old one off?  Untie (how) the fly that is already on?  What?  Sure sound like dumb but important questions to me and I hope someone can help a beginner.  Thanks.

No need to apologize for your question.  the only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked.  Enjoyed the pun by the way ;^ When you want to change flies, you simply cut off the first one and tie on another. Eventually this will shorten your tippet (if you don’t lose it to a fly eating tree or bush first, or cast some wind knots into it), but then you cut that off and tie on a new piece.  Orvis has a waterproof knot booklet for about $5 that has the appropriate knots listed and how to tie them. Personally I use the Orvis knot to tie on most trout flies and a Trilene knot to tie on any fly large enough to pass the tippet through the eye twice (large streamers, bass flies, steelheadsalmon flies, saltwater flies).  On flies that I want to use a lot of action on I will often use a Duncan’s loop.                            Hope this helps,                                      Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

Response:

In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

I myself work on the premise that my tippet should be either the same or one size smaller than the tip section of my leader. For determining the end "tippet" size a good general rule is too devide your hook size by three. Example: Size 12 adams – use a 4x tippet. Reel simple

Response:

In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe I myself work on the premise that my tippet should be either the same or one size smaller than the tip section of my leader. For determining the end "tippet" size a good general rule is too devide your hook size by three. Example: Size 12 adams – use a 4x tippet. Reel simple

One approach is to use a 3X leader and then step down to the desired tippet size  using 6 – 8 inch long transition sections.  For example, if you want to use a 6X tippet, you would use 8 inches of 4X and 8 inches of 5 X between the leader and tippet section. This way you only carry one size leader. Regards, Chuck

Response:

One approach is to use a 3X leader and then step down to the desired tippet size  using 6 – 8 inch long transition sections.  For example, if you want to use a 6X tippet, you would use 8 inches of 4X and 8 inches of 5 X between the leader and tippet section. This way you only carry one size leader. Regards, Chuck

Not a bad idea Chuck except for me personally I find it very difficult to  tie on those little pieces of tippet material while there is a feeding frenzy going on. For some reason my fingers and brain seem to disconnect while whatching trout splashing and jumping all around me, not to mention the problem of cold fingers or low light. I generally carry a range of leaders sizes 3x-6x pretied with 3 feet of tippet section done while at home whatching a fishing show or something. This allows me more time to fish and less aggravation on the water. I only tie on the water if I have to. Tight lines Russ

Response:

(DLowe21757) writes: In follow up to one beginners question to another, does it matter what size leader you use as long as the tippet is a smaller size? Do I need to change leaders if I’m going to the trout stream after I’ve been fishing for bluegill in a pond, or just the tippet? Thanks. D. Lowe

Boy this can be a can of worms! Commercial knotless tapered leaders consist of three parts – butt section (which is heavy and level or very slightly tapered), the tapering section (which rapidly tapers down to your tippet size), and the tippet section (which is also level and the part that you tie onto the fly).  So your leader already has a tippet on it.  You can replace the tippet as needed as you break it off or cut it down from changing flies.  Much less expensive to tie on a new tippet section than to change an entire leader every time you mess up the tippet.  You can also change how your leader performs by cutting back or adding tippet.  If you add tippet you will get more slack out near the fly, if you cut back tippet you will get more power delivered to the fly resulting is less slack and more ease in turning over large flies or regular flies in windy conditions.  You can play around with the butt section in the opposite manner to accomplish the same thing, but that means tying two knots instead of one.  And of course if you really want to get carried away you can vary both to fine tune the leader to your needs. A good approximate guide to which tippet size to use is to divide the size of your fly by 3 and use the resultant number for your tippet X number. For instance: size 18 fly divided by 3 = 6X tippet, size 12 divided by 3 = 4X, size 16 divided by 3 = 5X and a little left over.  In slow clear water with spooky trout you may have to go one X smaller, and in fast pocket water you may be able to go one X larger.  Listen to what the fish say, they’ll tell you. Length of leader is more a function of the water type than anything else. We use longer leaders for greater subtlety (less obtrusive than the fly line) and more suppleness.  Long leaders – 9 to 12 ft.- are most commonly needed in slow clear water with spooky trout.  That is because the trout gets a long time to inspect your fly in slow water and are typically more critical of drag.  Short leaders – 6 to 7 1/2 ft. – are used in faster water for better control with typically larger flies in fast water conditions.  In fast water the trout gets only a short time to see your fly before he takes it or rejects it and there is not usually as much food available (harsher conditions) so he tends to be more opportunistic than in the slower water conditions.  Since we don’t need the added subtlety and suppleness of the longer leader in faster conditions we don’t use it. Always best to use the shortest heaviest leader you can get away with. Again listen to the trout.   If the trout aren’t taking your fly you probably need to go longer and finer.  Sometimes the shortest stoutest leader that will work is a 12 ft. 6X or 7X leader.                      Hope this helps,                              Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Question:

I took up fly fishing last summer, during a trip to Newfoundland, and now the family can’t imagine any other kind of fishing. I have a few questions. Lot’s of places we fish seem to have tons of mosquitos.  Why are there so few flies that look like mosquitos (or am I missing something). In Lappland this summer, I got something called a "musta polar tohtori" (black polar doctor), which looked a bit like a mosquito, but there don’t seem to be many.  Do fish not like mosquitoes?  My wife’s theory is to the effect that mosquitoes are so common that fish are bored with them, and would rather go for something more unusual and tasty. The second question:  We took our fly rods to Finnish Lappland this summer (around Kilpisjarvi), but had no luck in the lakes around there, nor around Yllas either.  We tried muddler minnows, dry flies, streamers, wet flies, and good good at casting, but didn’t pick up anything (though some of the lakes are stocked with char).  It was fun anyway, but I’m wondering if anybody has tips on fishing the Northern Finnish, Swedish and Norwegian lakes and streams. Finally, closer to home, I’m looking for good trout streams in Wisconsin or N. Illinois, within 3-4 hours of Chicago.  I’m not looking for anybody to give away their secret spots, but if there are some well know good spots I’d appreciate the advice.  I like to fish in places that are quiet and away from busy roads and noisy power boats (and far, far away from jet skis!). Thanks, Ray Pierrehumbert

Response:

Lot’s of places we fish seem to have tons of mosquitos.  Why are there so few flies that look like mosquitos (or am I missing something).

If trout get a shot at mosquitoes, I’m sure they’d eat them.  However, the life cycle of a mosquito pretty well takes place in water which trout cannot survive.  Mosquitoes hatch in stagnant water that is usually warmer than trout prefer and has little if any dissolved oxygen.   Not nearly enough dissolved oxygen for trout to survive.  "Mosquito wrigglers" use a tube that  penetrates the surface film to respirate. The are actually air breathing in this immature form.  That is why they used oil on the stagnant water to eliminate the malaria problems in the first half of the century.  The mosquito tubes couldn’t penetrate the oil film and they died from lack of oxygen. They hatch from stagnant water into that blood-sucking beast we all know, and they lay eggs back into the same stagnant water they came from. The attractions for them around the water are the warm blooded animals that frequent the area.  Since all animals need water, that’s a good supply of blood.  But they are not readily available for ingestion by trout. By the way, that "mosquito pattern" that most fly shops sell is a great mayfly imitation and works well in trout waters.                                                     Hope this helps,                                                              Dan

Response:

Question:

Where , praytell, is the Museum, as I would love to take a daytrip to it.  Thanks

The American Museum of Fly Fishing P.O. Box 42 Manchester, Vermont 05254 USA Easy to find in the center of town, on the main road (Route 7?), at the corner of Seminary Avenue.  Phone (802) 362-3300 for more info.  There is currently an exhibition of paintings by T.A. Daly in the gallery;  the exhibition alone should make the trip worthwhile. Woods Hole, MA   USA

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   The American Museum of Flyfishing, in Vermont, publishes "The American Flyfisher", a magazine devoted to the history of the sport.   Where , praytell, is the Museum, as I would love to take a daytrip to it.  Thanks The museum is right near the equinox hotel, on historic Rt something-or-other in Manchester (I think).  Its on the road leading to Orvis Scott

Yeah it’s on route 7 in Manchester…as you head away from town it’s on the right just before you get to the Equinox. Paul DiConza NY Capital District Angler

Response:

       The American Museum of Flyfishing, in Vermont, publishes "The American Flyfisher", a magazine devoted to the history of the sport.   Where , praytell, is the Museum, as I would love to take a daytrip to it.  Thanks

The museum is right near the equinox hotel, on historic Rt something-or-other in Manchester (I think).  Its on the road leading to Orvis Scott

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 Perhaps a good book would put me in the right direction. Izaac Walton, The Complete Angler. (any edition)

        The first edition didn’t contain John Cotton’s appendix on fishing with flies. That first happened in the second edition.

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 Perhaps a good book would put me in the right direction.

Izaac Walton, The Complete Angler. (any edition)

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   The American Museum of Flyfishing, in Vermont, publishes "The American Flyfisher", a magazine devoted to the history of the sport.  

Where , praytell, is the Museum, as I would love to take a daytrip to it.  Thanks

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Does anyone know when  and where the art of fly fishing began? If you could tell me I would appreciate it very much. A brief history would be great. Perhaps a good book would put me in the right direction. Thanks

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Does anyone know when  and where the art of fly fishing began? If you

There are several histories by Trench, Hills, etc. that usually cite a Roman Empire report by someone called Aelian about people fishing in Macedonia with red hackle flies.  The sort of fly fishing we know dates from at least the 17th century (2nd edition of Izaak Walton’s book, with additions on fly fishing by Charles Cotton) and an older English manuscript gives a dozen fly patterns from an earlier century. Fly fishing appears to have been the first widely used method of fishing with an artificial lure, as distinct from live bait.  Both bait and fly fishing depended much on the invention of suitable metal fish hooks.  Some N.American Indians used bone or other non-metal hooks, with feathers or hair attached. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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on the history of ff: The earliest record of ff in English is a The Treatise of Fishing with an Angle, attributed to Dame Juliana Berners (though by now she has been almost proven not to have written it).  It was appended to The Book of Saint Albans, 1496.  In 1557 (I think), Samuel Williams wrote a book in dialogue form, which gave Izaak Walton the idea and much material for his Complete Angler (1653) (there was no concept of plagiarism in those times).         In the 1500’s, there were also books published in Spain (Tradico de Pesca, I believe), and in France, and these were efforts independent from those in the British Isles.           Since then, there have been more books published on fishing in general and flyfishing in particular than on any other sport, at least 4000.         The American Museum of Flyfishing, in Vermont, publishes "The American Flyfisher", a magazine devoted to the history of the sport.  You get 4 issues of it a year when you become a member of the Museum.                                                   Kin

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Question:

How do I get on the internet Fly Fishing Digest mailing list via the AOL gateway?

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If you learn how to accomplish this, I would appreciate a note so I can also acquire access.  Thanks.

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To unsubscribe, send the following message to the listerver:         UNSUBSCRIBE FLYFISH You’ll get a lot of mail, but if you want to get just one file with a summary of the previous day’s messages, type         SET FLYFISH DIGEST

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But how does one subscribe?  I can’t do it through NetNews.  And I’d like to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Chan) writes: To unsubscribe, send the following message to the listerver:    UNSUBSCRIBE FLYFISH You’ll get a lot of mail, but if you want to get just one file with a summary of the previous day’s messages, type    SET FLYFISH DIGEST

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Question:

I’m curious,  are you refering to the Green River not in Wyoming, but in Utah.  The section below Flaming Gorge dam.  I know the Green has its origins in Wyoming, but the best section to fish is in Utah. If so, I may be able to help. — -Bill

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Hi everybody! Can anybody tell me what’s the best place at Green River, Wyoming to start fly-fishing at? What kind of fly patterns would you suggest there? What’s the best time of year to go there fishing? Any other hints about that place? Thanks a lot for your help! Claudine — Student at University of Zurich, Department of Computer Science

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