Question:

Michael writes: This drag would surely have an equivalent effect upon a fly fished with a piece of split shot 2 feet up the tippet? Is this drag the same one you are talking about?

But it is effected less by it.  Like I’ve said, I used to use weighted flies to get my intended lure to the bottom (simply because using split shot or any weight on the leader was illegal in Maine).  However, using the same lure and the same set up, but using a split shot instead of the weighted nymph, the same effect is accomplished (getting the lure down in the water column), but the drag is considerably less.  With this method, I have observed an unweighted lure tumbling on the bottom not unlike the natural.  This is the ideal that I strive for in every cast.  Do I get it perfect each time?  No.  Nor do I always get a nice drag-free drift with a dry.  But I catch more fish with the split shot method than I do with the weighted nymph (Czech) method.  BTW, I seldom use more than one fly.  If you have the *right* fly, it isn’t necessary.  <g Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Response:

Hiya Dave,  please refer back to my previous post and tell me if I understand your split shot method.  Forgive me if I am wrong,  but it would appear to me at least that you didn’t read all my post.  I think I have the jist of the method you speak of,  but would appreciate it if you’d confirm either way.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Michael writes: This drag would surely have an equivalent effect upon a fly fished with a piece of split shot 2 feet up the tippet? Is this drag the same one you are talking about? But it is effected less by it.  Like I’ve said, I used to use weighted flies to get my intended lure to the bottom (simply because using split shot or any weight on the leader was illegal in Maine).  However, using the same lure and the same set up, but using a split shot instead of the weighted nymph, the same effect is accomplished (getting the lure down in the water column), but the drag is considerably less.  With this method, I have observed an unweighted lure tumbling on the bottom not unlike the natural.  This is the ideal that I strive for in every cast.  Do I get it perfect each time?  No.  Nor do I always get a nice drag-free drift with a dry.  But I catch more fish with the split shot method than I do with the weighted nymph (Czech) method.  BTW, I seldom use more than one fly.  If you have the *right* fly, it isn’t necessary. <g Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Response:

Snip Michael, my experience with super weighted flies is to use them to get the *real* lure down.  The only problem is, they have a lot of drag.  Nymph fishing is just like surface fishing in this regard — you do not want drag.  My way is to use split shot (weight according to how deep/fast moving the water is) about 2 feet above an unweighted nymph.  While I have taken lots of fish with beadhead nymphs, using the split shot is better than using a super weighted fly.  JMO

I assume that the drag that you speak of is the actual dressing of the fly? Obviously the split shot, round and smooth, has little to impart upon the surrounding water.  The copper PT nymphs that I use also are quite "streamlined", and don’t seem to have much drag, or resistance to the water. That is why I like them a lot,  as you can quite effectively get them to the right depth and location even in the tricky waters. However, the drag that you speak of,  you also relate to the "dry fly drag". To me, dry fly drag is the movement of the fly over the surface of the water, brought about by the line "bellying", as cross currents pull on the line.  It is possible to get bad drag when casting directly upstream, particularly in pool tails where the outflow rapids pull (push) on the line, and cause the fly to skate over the water’s surface.  Of course,  this "drag" will be applied to a sunken fly too,   it causes the nymph to travel quite quickly through the water.  This drag would surely have an equivalent effect upon a fly fished with a piece of split shot 2 feet up the tippet? Is this drag the same one you are talking about? I personally have never used split shot,  neither have I used indicators, nor even the dry fly dropper that is said to be a great indicator.  (Whilst keen sight persists, I shall always prefer the simplicity of the greased leader and the single chosen fly.)  The stream that I favour to fish is very overgrown,  and is difficult to fish in a lot of places even with a 7 footer (I just got a 6 footer and really counting the days to next April) and one fly on a 9 ft leader to 2lb tippet.  Although I’ve never tried the split shot,  I will still believe that for me at least, the single Sawyer copper PT nymph & greased leader is the best option that I know of.  That being said,  I will always like to check out new techniques,  and hence my interest on this matter. I’m wondering though if there is something about the split shot that has a good effect upon the fly.  I imagine that the split shot sinks lower than the fly,  creating a V profile in the leader.  Pulling on the fly line will not immdiately make the fly rise,  as the flyline is connected first to the weight of the split shot.  The split shot is trying to pull the fly down as well as the leader and flyline.  That means that there is not a straight line between flyline and fly,  there is a positive bend,  exactly at the spot that the split shot occupies.  Pulling on the fly line will not be directly proportional with imparted fly movement,  not until the bend has been pulled out. Obviously,  as the drag is getting very pronounced,  the V profile will be reduced to eventually a flat line, and the split shot and the fly will be racing along at equal speeds and directions through the water as the dragging flyline rips it along.  At this point,  mends in the line will be required to reduce the flyline pull,  and allow the V profile to form once more.  If the angler is diligent with mending duty,  then the effect of drag can be kept at bay from the fly at least,  the split shot acting as a delayer to the drag. Mmm,  in fact I think I can imagine exactly what you are referring to about the split shot being a drag moderator:  am I right?

Response:

Michael, yours is a very good description of how I’ve always assumed that a split shot (or a heavily weighted fly) mitigates the drag on an unweighted fly below it.  I completely gave up on split shot some time ago in favor of a bead head or other weighted fly to get another, usually much smaller, fly down.  I started doing this when I began fishing some rivers here in Oregon that allow multiple-fly rigs but do not allow "any added weight" applied to the leader or line.  (Folks quickly learned how to get around this rule!).  The bonus is that although most fish take the fly on the point, sometimes one (usually larger than the norm) will take the anchor, which never happens, of course, with split shot.  The draw-back is that it’s harder and more time consuming to adjust the position of the anchor fly along the length of the leader.  One option is to use a fly with a very big eye and attached it with a sort of loop-to-loop connection to the fly, as one does with the new yarn indicators that have a little plastics loop on them. JR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – beginning snipped I’m wondering though if there is something about the split shot that has a good effect upon the fly.  I imagine that the split shot sinks lower than the fly,  creating a V profile in the leader.  Pulling on the fly line will not immdiately make the fly rise,  as the flyline is connected first to the weight of the split shot.  The split shot is trying to pull the fly down as well as the leader and flyline.  That means that there is not a straight line between flyline and fly,  there is a positive bend,  exactly at the spot that the split shot occupies.  Pulling on the fly line will not be directly proportional with imparted fly movement,  not until the bend has been pulled out. Obviously,  as the drag is getting very pronounced,  the V profile will be reduced to eventually a flat line, and the split shot and the fly will be racing along at equal speeds and directions through the water as the dragging flyline rips it along.  At this point,  mends in the line will be required to reduce the flyline pull,  and allow the V profile to form once more.  If the angler is diligent with mending duty,  then the effect of drag can be kept at bay from the fly at least,  the split shot acting as a delayer to the drag. Mmm,  in fact I think I can imagine exactly what you are referring to about the split shot being a drag moderator:  am I right?

Response:

I’ve only ever read about the upstream Czech nymphing technique.  I have of course seen pictures of the weighty flies  (tungsten and all).  I frequently use copper & 5 pheasant-tail fibre nymphs (Sawyer),  I think that these copper nymphs (or singular to be more accurate,  as I only use one fly at a time)  sink quite quickly upstream on my small Yorks. stream.    Apart from appearance,  is there much difference between these flies:  copper & low surface area nymph Vs the tungsten but relatively fluffy Czech nymph? [snip] Is there any real bonus  with 3 or even 2 on a stream?  Surely they must be a burden at times; one accurate fly of the right selection and method employed, applied  to the point of attention is perhaps all that is required?

The Czech nymphs that I were given seem to be less fluffy than American Nymphs, but to answer your question, the damn things go down faster than a Times Square whore. As to the relative merits of copper vs tungsten, I think tungsten being denser helps thing sink quicker but quicker is not always better. Presentation and mending to reduce drag count for more in my little book. As to bonus of 3 flies vs 2 or one, that’s just the method. some folks have problems with it, I know I did at first but with practice things seem to work OK most of the time but I’ve been known to get a wind knot while tying on a new fly. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Michael writes: I’ve only ever read about the upstream Czech nymphing technique.  I have of course seen pictures of the weighty flies  (tungsten and all).  I frequently use copper & 5 pheasant-tail fibre nymphs  (Sawyer),  I think that these copper nymphs (or singular to be more accurate,  as I only use one fly at a time)  sink quite quickly  upstream on my small Yorks. stream.    Apart from appearance,  is there much difference between these flies:  copper & low surface area nymph Vs the tungsten but relatively fluffy Czech nymph? The metal used in the PT nymph is significantly lower in density than the tungsten CN.  In fact I seem to remember something about tungsten being much denser than lead.  However,  the PT nymph is of much lesser surface area (guaged by my eye,  i.e. hunch mode on) than the CN,  woolly body and all. The surface area would impart drag on the sinking fly,  and slow its decent if increased.  Which sinks the quicker?  Is there anything to be gained from copper PT  to CN? Is 3 better than 1?  I use the one fly on my stream,  (though boat fishing on Scottish lochs use 3 or even  4 at times) primarily because that it is my focus on the river.  On the stream I am selecting exact spots,  and only 1 fly can fill this spot.  On the loch/lake things are not quite so exact (particularly if you are sharing the boat with a pair (inevitable trio) of boozers). Is there any real bonus  with 3 or even 2 on a stream?  Surely they must be a burden at times; one accurate fly of the right selection and method employed, applied  to the point of attention is perhaps all that is required? Regards, Michael.

Michael, my experience with super weighted flies is to use them to get the *real* lure down.  The only problem is, they have a lot of drag.  Nymph fishing is just like surface fishing in this regard — you do not want drag.  My way is to use split shot (weight according to how deep/fast moving the water is) about 2 feet above an unweighted nymph.  While I have taken lots of fish with beadhead nymphs, using the split shot is better than using a super weighted fly.  JMO Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Response:

I’ve only ever read about the upstream Czech nymphing technique.  I have of course seen pictures of the weighty flies  (tungsten and all).  I frequently use copper & 5 pheasant-tail fibre nymphs  (Sawyer),  I think that these copper nymphs (or singular to be more accurate,  as I only use one fly at a time)  sink quite quickly  upstream on my small Yorks. stream.    Apart from appearance,  is there much difference between these flies:  copper & low surface area nymph Vs the tungsten but relatively fluffy Czech nymph? The metal used in the PT nymph is significantly lower in density than the tungsten CN.  In fact I seem to remember something about tungsten being much denser than lead.  However,  the PT nymph is of much lesser surface area (guaged by my eye,  i.e. hunch mode on) than the CN,  woolly body and all. The surface area would impart drag on the sinking fly,  and slow its decent if increased.  Which sinks the quicker?  Is there anything to be gained from copper PT  to CN? Is 3 better than 1?  I use the one fly on my stream,  (though boat fishing on Scottish lochs use 3 or even  4 at times) primarily because that it is my focus on the river.  On the stream I am selecting exact spots,  and only 1 fly can fill this spot.  On the loch/lake things are not quite so exact (particularly if you are sharing the boat with a pair (inevitable trio) of boozers). Is there any real bonus  with 3 or even 2 on a stream?  Surely they must be a burden at times; one accurate fly of the right selection and method employed, applied  to the point of attention is perhaps all that is required? Regards, Michael.

Response:

Question:

…..weights and ways, which would overload  an ass….

On our trip to the Rockies last summer, I proved to my own satisfaction (and Becky’s) that I STILL know how to overload an ass.         Wolfgang happy new year to one and all

Response:

Hours and days, and weeks and months, and even years, go drifting by, suddenly one is old, and knows not when or how it happened, or even why. The hopes and dreams of youth have faded, replaced by practical considerations, some things are less easy than they were, must be left to younger generations. Wisdom, and some circumspection, have hopefully replaced blind action, one now looks, before one leaps, unless one wants to land in traction. Heart and muscles, once untiring, and seemingly eternal in reliance, warn now and then, that this was only temporary, punish now defiance. Knees and backs, once subject to weights and ways, which would overload  an ass, when asked to do so now, protest oft mightily, and one is forced at last to pass. The ten foot rod, once fished all day, with heavy flies and lines,  in heavy water, stands mostly unused in the corner now, perhaps to be passed on, to son or daughter. Tiny flies, once fished with confidence, and eyesight, which would have shamed a hawk, ousted now by flies on larger hooks, thicker lines, which sometimes cause a fish to baulk, Once perfect vision, coupled well with youthful drive,  and perfect hand coordination, now replaced by skill and long experience, which suffices yet,  in nearly every situation. How long though? Should one perhaps sit long and hard, and tie a multitude of flies? afraid that soon, some things will not be possible, with old and tired and rheumy eyes? Chest waders, hanging in their rightful place, mostly now  unused upon the cellar wall, aggressive wading is no longer quite the thing to do, it would be dangerous to fall. Many seasons, many fish,  blur at last, to strings of often fading, but still happy recollection, red letter days stand out of course, of special fish, and special flies, from ones collection. Watching enviously, as some spry youth then springs from rock to rock, or leaps the stream, things one did without a second thought, but of which one now, can only reminisce or dream. Wasted?  Oh I think not, for what would one have, to recall with such enduring pleasure, had one not fished at all, and had some other thing instead to spend ones leisure? Perhaps tis true, that youth is wasted on the young, and after all, life often is unfair, still and all, despite enough regrets, I would not change it, it was beyond compare. Friends, met on various waters through the years, some gone now, some still living, gentlemen and anglers, great and small, all enriched ones life, were great at giving, experience, advice, flies and leaders, and a multitude of other things, given with joy, no thought of selfishness within them, generous and kind, that others might enjoy. Some years yet, I hope I may still fish, grant that God, or providence, fulfil my dreams, wander still, enchanted lands, through woodlands, mountains, rivers, lakes, and streams. Meet new friends, tie flies, drink toasts, catch fish, perhaps at last invent the perfect fly? Sorrows? Yes some, but few of them to do with fishing, I will be happy, when at last I die. Hopefully some anglers will then think as well of me, and so ensure that I am not forgotten, that I may take my place among the cavalcade of sportsmen, like Walton, Skues or Cotton, mistake me not, I wish not for fame or recognition, perchance a thought, perhaps a prayer. that I may rest in peace, an honest angler, and an honest man, who, to men and fish, was fair. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Question:

I understand that there can be a significant difference in terms of how fast a gps can get a bearing between modals.  I am looking for a gps for fly fishing saltwater.  I will want to be able to mark channels, fishing spots, etc.  Can anyone with experience advise me on what to look for? JK

Response:

I understand that there can be a significant difference in terms of how fast a gps can get a bearing between modals.  I am looking for a gps for fly fishing saltwater.  I will want to be able to mark channels, fishing spots, etc.  Can anyone with experience advise me on what to look for?

Soitenly! Look for a Garmin GPSIII+ /daytripper

Response:

The Garmin GPSIII+ typically acquires satellites and computes it’s initial position in less than a minute.  The downloadable maps include lots of coastal data, markers, buoys, etc.  I use one inland on streams, rivers and lakes.  email me directly if you want more info.  Also you might want to look at the usegroup : sci.geo.satellite-nav.  Lots of experienced folks there as well. Tom — Tom Brown The Signal Group Wake Forest, NC HEATHEN, n. A benighted creature who has the folly to worship something that he can see and feel.                – Ambrose Bierce: The Devil’s Dictionary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I understand that there can be a significant difference in terms of how fast a gps can get a bearing between modals.  I am looking for a gps for fly fishing saltwater.  I will want to be able to mark channels, fishing spots, etc.  Can anyone with experience advise me on what to look for? JK

Response:

I can put off buying the unit until spring although it would be convenient to have it sooner.  Do you see anything changing in terms of new products or enhancements that would warrant waiting? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Garmin GPSIII+ typically acquires satellites and computes it’s initial position in less than a minute.  The downloadable maps include lots of coastal data, markers, buoys, etc.  I use one inland on streams, rivers and lakes.  email me directly if you want more info.  Also you might want to look at the usegroup : sci.geo.satellite-nav.  Lots of experienced folks there as well. Tom — Tom Brown The Signal Group Wake Forest, NC HEATHEN, n. A benighted creature who has the folly to worship something that he can see and feel.               — Ambrose Bierce: The Devil’s Dictionary I understand that there can be a significant difference in terms of how fast a gps can get a bearing between modals.  I am looking for a gps for fly fishing saltwater.  I will want to be able to mark channels, fishing spots, etc.  Can anyone with experience advise me on what to look for? JK

Response:

Hard to say.  My personal expectation is that there will be a version available with more internal flash memory, sometime in the spring.  The GPSIII+ has 1.44 megs in additional to the (good) base map.  Take a look at  www.joe.mehaffey.com .  That’s sort of a "clearing house" for current GPS info. And, start looking at/participating in/ the newsgroup that I mentioned.  Since this is not a germane subject for most flyfishers, email me directly for follow-on info. Tom — Tom Brown The Signal Group Wake Forest, NC HEATHEN, n. A benighted creature who has the folly to worship something that he can see and feel.                – Ambrose Bierce: The Devil’s Dictionary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can put off buying the unit until spring although it would be convenient to have it sooner.  Do you see anything changing in terms of new products or enhancements that would warrant waiting? The Garmin GPSIII+ typically acquires satellites and computes it’s initial position in less than a minute.  The downloadable maps include lots of coastal data, markers, buoys, etc.  I use one inland on streams, rivers and lakes.  email me directly if you want more info.  Also you might want to look at the usegroup : sci.geo.satellite-nav.  Lots of experienced folks there as well. Tom I understand that there can be a significant difference in terms of how fast a gps can get a bearing between modals.  I am looking for a gps for fly fishing saltwater.  I will want to be able to mark channels, fishing spots, etc.  Can anyone with experience advise me on what to look for? JK

Response:

Question:

I’ve heard from a man that did it that building a fly rod, with the right equipment, can be done reasonably well and with about eight hours of work.  I’d like to invest in the tools and then spend a little less money and a lot more care making rods for myself and my spouse. Any recommendations on inexpensive tools of the trade?  What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?  The best rod building guide? And what to look out for on your first go? Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?  I’ve invested in fly fishing and fly tying and so I know that every fish I catch is worth about twelve bucks.  I’d like to get them down to around four dollars/fish some day, so I’d just as soon skip the five hundred dollar graphite blanks. Thanks for any info, Sean

Response:

Rod Building Suppliers http://www.customtackle.com/                    Custom Tackle Supply http://www.mudhole.com                        Mudhole Custom Tackle http://www.shofftackle.com                Shoff Tackle http://www.angelfire.com/ks/bingham/     Bingham Enterprises http://www.anglersworkshop.com                Angler’s Workshop http://www.Cabelas.com                                Cabelas http://www.HuntersAngling.com                  Hunter’s Angling Supplies Expect to spend a minimum of $150 on equipment, closer to $250 for decent equipment. You’ll need a rod wrapper, finishing motor and stand, burnishing tool, exacto knife, epoxy, finish and syringes, mixing cups, thread St. Croix has an excellent reputation for quality inexpensive blanks. I’d have someone teach you the basics rather than learning solely from a book. Good luck, Ian McAllister Rodworks Seattle, WA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve heard from a man that did it that building a fly rod, with the right equipment, can be done reasonably well and with about eight hours of work.  I’d like to invest in the tools and then spend a little less money and a lot more care making rods for myself and my spouse. Any recommendations on inexpensive tools of the trade?  What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?  The best rod building guide? And what to look out for on your first go? Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?  I’ve invested in fly fishing and fly tying and so I know that every fish I catch is worth about twelve bucks.  I’d like to get them down to around four dollars/fish some day, so I’d just as soon skip the five hundred dollar graphite blanks. Thanks for any info, Sean

Response:

Have a look at the rod building course at http://www.flyanglersonline.com that should help you out. TL MC

Response:

While a rotisserie motor will serve the same purpose as a drying motor, it is the method of attachment between motor and blank that makes the real difference.  My first drying motor was a castoff from an old grill and could be made to work with a piece of all thread and masking tape to build up "bushings" to mount to the motor and the blank, but the problem is getting the blank and the motor shaft aligned so the rod rotates about it’s center rather than in an ellipse.  If you try to apply finish with the rod off center, you wind up chasing your wraps with the brush. It is next to impossible to get clean finish lines under these conditions. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive?

Response:

Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive? David Correct ! Works just as well too. TL MC

I’ve seen dishwasher motor rig that also works well for rods. What also works good is if you build a 6 or so inch diameter styrofoam  disc and attach it to the drive for drying epoxy flies. l—–l            [] l        l——- [] l—–l            [] motor  drive  styro the wheel slowly spins and allows the epoxy on the flies to dry in a symmetrically even fashion, which as we all know, will quadruple your chances of catching a fish. Walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

Response:

Perfectly true, assymetrical epoxy will cause any self-respecting trout to go into a hissy fit. Unless you are tying flat -headed, flat-sided minnow imitations. In which case, the motor is superfluous. TL MC

dang Mike….i never thought of using pox flies for trout. when i was a resident down south we used to make pox flies fer saltwater fish. walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

Response:

I use a really simple method. I took a dowel just a little larger than the sqaure hole on the BBQ motor and cut it square. I then took another dowel just smaller than the size of the Rod Handle.  I then drilled a hole in the middle of this and glued the smaller dowel into it. Once I had the "Chuck" made I simply took a bicycle tube and cut a section out of it. This can then be rolled right onto the rod handle and you have a good chuck that will work for just about any rod.  Plus there is no chance of marring the rod because the Rolled up tube is all that touches the rod. Gary

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While a rotisserie motor will serve the same purpose as a drying motor, it is the method of attachment between motor and blank that makes the real difference.  My first drying motor was a castoff from an old grill and could be made to work with a piece of all thread and masking tape to build up "bushings" to mount to the motor and the blank, but the problem is getting the blank and the motor shaft aligned so the rod rotates about it’s center rather than in an ellipse.  If you try to apply finish with the rod off center, you wind up chasing your wraps with the brush. It is next to impossible to get clean finish lines under these conditions.  Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive?

Response:

Am I right in thinking that a finishing/drying motor looks suspiciously

like a BBQ spit motor, only much more expensive? David

Correct ! Works just as well too. TL MC

Response:

<SNIPPED A cheap drill chuck, obtainable at any hardware store, correctly aligned to the shaft obviates this problem. The best I have seen to date was a special purpose chuck with nylon "fingers".  Otherwise plug and  tape the rod end to prevent damage in the chuck, and do not overtighten. TL MC

Response:

Perfectly true, assymetrical epoxy will cause any self-respecting trout to go into a hissy fit. Unless you are tying flat -headed, flat-sided minnow imitations. In which case, the motor is superfluous. TL MC

Response:

What machines are necessary versus just a convenience?

Make or buy a simple rod wrapping jig if you plan to build several. The best rod building guide?

Dale Clemen’s Advanced Custom Rod Building from Winchester Press is more than you will ever need to know.  You don’t have to agree with everything he writes but he does cover just about everything.  Luis Garcia’s Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod from Frank Amato Books has great closeup photos. Lastly, which are the better of the less expensive blanks?

If you are in no rush check out those web sites that others have posted in response to your question around November – February for closeouts, cosmetically defective rods, discontinued blanks, etc. I’ll make one more pitch for MCT epoxy guide wrap finish available at www.fishdoc.com.  You’ll definitely need a drying motor if you decide to use their finish.  I like MCT better than Flex Coat Lite. After applying finish to your wraps, leave several drops of it on a Post-It note or piece of aluminum foil.  Later when you’re trying to guess how much the finish has cured, you can touch one of these test drops rather than potentially spoil your unfinished epoxy coating. Mu

Response:

Question:

Dear Jim, Welcome to the group. I wish I had any advice for you, alas, all I can offer are cyber-hugs and the belief that someone else here will have some useful information. This is a great group, they’ve all helped me a lot! Alex

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hello, I’m new to  this group,,actuall this is my first post to any news group although I am in a couple of e-mail list servers for my own major addiction (which is fly fishing),, I am a 42 year old male and have been having problems with migraines at least as far back as first grade (a long,long time) it seems that whenever I go to a doctor about my headaches I get treated like some kind of drug addict and I’m only trying to get otherwise illegal drugs from them,,the nuerologist at the Mayo clinic after trying me on every migraine prophilactic medication he knew of called my headaches "intractable" and wanted me to go to their "pain management sessions"where from what my younger sister (who went through the program)they teach you how "to pretend you don’t hurt",, mental tricks that anyone who has put up with severe headaches for over 35 years knows by instinct or they would have put a bullet through their head a long time ago,,,I use to get some relief using 400 to 800 mg Ibuprofen,,,but did that so often and for so long that I now have an active ulcer ,, so I can not use any of the anti-inflamitory meds,,,and with my headaches happening at a rate of 3 to 6 days a week now my PCP has even stopped prescribing any of the triptains(which only worked for about 50% of my headaches anyway) and has put a note into my chart sayingt that NO narcotic meds were to be administered in the ER anymore either,, so I am without any medical help at all right now,,when I last was at the clinic I was told if I can’t take care of my headaches with extra strength Tylenol that they couldn’t help me,, sorry to be rambling so,, Jim Peterson aka Bear

Jim, It’s time to go "doctor shopping" in your area. You have the absolute right to have "effective" medications prescribed to you for your condition. Your story makes me furious! Others here may have some suggestions, but when all else fails, you can call a pharmacist and merely ask if he/she knows a local doctor who is "liberal" with pain medications. Good Luck, RxMan

Response:

hello, I’m new to  this group,,actuall this is my first post to any news group although I am in a couple of e-mail list servers for my own major addiction (which is fly fishing),, I am a 42 year old male and have been having problems with migraines at least as far back as first grade (a long,long time) it seems that whenever I go to a doctor about my headaches I get treated like some kind of drug addict and I’m only trying to get otherwise illegal drugs from them,,the nuerologist at the Mayo clinic after trying me on every migraine prophilactic medication he knew of called my headaches "intractable" and wanted me to go to their "pain management sessions"where from what my younger sister (who went through the program)they teach you how "to pretend you don’t hurt",, mental tricks that anyone who has put up with severe headaches for over 35 years knows by instinct or they would have put a bullet through their head a long time ago,,,I use to get some relief using 400 to 800 mg Ibuprofen,,,but did that so often and for so long that I now have an active ulcer ,, so I can not use any of the anti-inflamitory meds,,,and with my headaches happening at a rate of 3 to 6 days a week now my PCP has even stopped prescribing any of the triptains(which only worked for about 50% of my headaches anyway) and has put a note into my chart sayingt that NO narcotic meds were to be administered in the ER anymore either,, so I am without any medical help at all right now,,when I last was at the clinic I was told if I can’t take care of my headaches with extra strength Tylenol that they couldn’t help me,, sorry to be rambling so,, Jim Peterson aka Bear

Response:

Welcome to the group Jim.  I felt so bad when I read your post.  I know it doesn’t help much but many of us have been in your situation before.  I myself was just a few months ago.  I was finally referred to a pain clinic that teaches all sorts of coping along with using medication to control my pain. They also have me in physical therapy and counseling.  I’ve been going 8 hours every Wed.   I had no idea a place like that was out there until I kept switching doctor and finally found one that referred me to this place.  Don’t give up!  There has got to be a place out there for you.  I know how discouraged you must be and so do many of us.  Please feel free to rant and rave and vent here as much as you need if it helps.  Be careful with lots of OTC meds, it may be your only relief although minimal, but it can lead to lots of problems at high dosages and some have found it to cause rebounds. Take care I sure hope you’re feeling OK today anyway. Stephanie in OR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -hello, I’m new to  this group,,actuall this is my first post to any news group although I am in a couple of e-mail list servers for my own major addiction (which is fly fishing),, I am a 42 year old male and have been having problems with migraines at least as far back as first grade (a long,long time) it seems that whenever I go to a doctor about my headaches I get treated like some kind of drug addict and I’m only trying to get otherwise illegal drugs from them,,the nuerologist at the Mayo clinic after trying me on every migraine prophilactic medication he knew of called my headaches "intractable" and wanted me to go to their "pain management sessions"where from what my younger sister (who went through the program)they teach you how "to pretend you don’t hurt",, mental tricks that anyone who has put up with severe headaches for over 35 years knows by instinct or they would have put a bullet through their head a long time ago,,,I use to get some relief using 400 to 800 mg Ibuprofen,,,but did that so often and for so long that I now have an active ulcer ,, so I can not use any of the anti-inflamitory meds,,,and with my headaches happening at a rate of 3 to 6 days a week now my PCP has even stopped prescribing any of the triptains(which only worked for about 50% of my headaches anyway) and has put a note into my chart sayingt that NO narcotic meds were to be administered in the ER anymore either,, so I am without any medical help at all right now,,when I last was at the clinic I was told if I can’t take care of my headaches with extra strength Tylenol that they couldn’t help me,, sorry to be rambling so,, Jim Peterson aka Bear

Response:

Jim, Welcome!  You have my sympathies.  What a tough situation…I can’t even imagine. I’m sure that someone in the group can help you.  Good luck. Dawn

Response:

I can really relate…..(As I posted earlier) I was just told this week that my PCP will no longer give me pain meds and that I need to "tough" out my migraines.  To me, that is unacceptable.  Doctor shopping is hard…to date, I have now seen 15 doctors (in 8 years)- all referring me on to another, but I think it’s well worth it when the right one is found. I really just want to welcome you to the ng…and hopefully give you some of the support it’s given me. -Erin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hello, I’m new to  this group,,actuall this is my first post to any news group although I am in a couple of e-mail list servers for my own major addiction (which is fly fishing),, I am a 42 year old male and have been having problems with migraines at least as far back as first grade (a long,long time) it seems that whenever I go to a doctor about my headaches I get treated like some kind of drug addict and I’m only trying to get otherwise illegal drugs from them,,the nuerologist at the Mayo clinic after trying me on every migraine prophilactic medication he knew of called my headaches "intractable" and wanted me to go to their "pain management sessions"where from what my younger sister (who went through the program)they teach you how "to pretend you don’t hurt",, mental tricks that anyone who has put up with severe headaches for over 35 years knows by instinct or they would have put a bullet through their head a long time ago,,,I use to get some relief using 400 to 800 mg Ibuprofen,,,but did that so often and for so long that I now have an active ulcer ,, so I can not use any of the anti-inflamitory meds,,,and with my headaches happening at a rate of 3 to 6 days a week now my PCP has even stopped prescribing any of the triptains(which only worked for about 50% of my headaches anyway) and has put a note into my chart sayingt that NO narcotic meds were to be administered in the ER anymore either,, so I am without any medical help at all right now,,when I last was at the clinic I was told if I can’t take care of my headaches with extra strength Tylenol that they couldn’t help me,, sorry to be rambling so,, Jim Peterson aka Bear

Response:

Hi Jim, Just wanted to say welcome to the group.  Sorry you’re having such a rough time right now with doctors and pain meds.  I’m not sure what to advise, but I know others will help you if they can. Take care, Fiona May yer lum aye reek wi’ other folks coal (Scottish)

Response:

I use to say that I didn’t know anyone who I disliked bad enough to wish a migraine attack upon,, I have changed my mind in that regard,,every person in the DEA and every single doctor should have to endure one of the 3 week straight migraines that I have and a lot of you have had to live with,,and I bet a lot of things would be different for all of us.

I completely agree.   Sometimes I even think that the people who say, "Oh, you get headaches?  Headaches are nothing …. Just take some asprin"  should really experience the type of "headache" that I get – The kind that even a high dose of Demerol and a couple of Vicodin won’t kick.  Thank the gods that I finally found a migraine doc – and at Kaiser, no less!   Pain free days and nights to u all

Response:

Dotty, Could it possibly be Dr. Neal Barnard’s book, "Foods that Fight Pain"?  Just read an article on it. Mona T.

Response:

I think your best bet is to call the radio station and ask them. diane – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone help me locate a book recently published. The author was interviewed on a New York radio station: WOR, the Joan Hamburg show. It was approx. 1-2 months ago.  I heard just the tail end of the interview but did not get the name of the book. I know that the author was male and he was able to successfully treat his migraines and hasn’t had one for two years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Dotty

Response:

Jim,     Welcome to the group.  I hate to hear of stories like yours!  It is so aggrivating!. I agree wtiht he others, it is probably time to find a new doctor.  I hope you find a good doctor very soon.   Take care, Jackie K

Jackie and everyone else , I should have known what this Dr was going to be like when I saw the certificates on the wall from the US Army,,but the Dr. that I had been going to who was pretty understanding when it came to pain had retired and this was the only Dr. I could get in to see without a 3 week advance appointment ,, others have warned about being carefull with OTC medications,,boy do I know that,, I now have an active ulcer directly caused by too many years of too much Ibuprfen,,I have asked the neurologist (again) at the Mayo Clinic (40 miles away for me) to refer me to the Pain Clinic,at Rochester Methodist Hospital,,that is where he said he was going to refer me when I last spoke with him but instead I got sent to the Pain Managment Center,, a completely different type of place, but his secretary says that he will be out of the country for the next 3 weeks,,by shorty after that I should be getting some pain relief as a follow up to the surgery I am going to be having to repair a bone spur and a torn rotator cuff in my shoulder,,,if I would have known I was going to live this long I would have taken much better care of myself,, I use to say that I didn’t know anyone who I disliked bad enough to wish a migraine attack upon,, I have changed my mind in that regard,,every person in the DEA and every single doctor should have to endure one of the 3 week straight migraines that I have and a lot of you have had to live with,,and I bet a lot of things would be different for all of us. Jim Peterson aka Bear

Response:

I amnot sure which book you are talking about but if you go to my migraine page : http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/7379/migraine.html you can check out some books on migraine….I think there are over 50 of them. Karen Can anyone help me locate a book recently published. The author was interviewed on a New York radio station: WOR, the Joan Hamburg show. It was approx. 1-2 months ago.  I heard just the tail end of the interview but did not get the name of the book. I know that the author was male and he was able to successfully treat his migraines and hasn’t had one for two years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Dotty

– You Are Not Alone http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/7379/karen.html

Response:

Can anyone help me locate a book recently published. The author was interviewed on a New York radio station: WOR, the Joan Hamburg show. It was approx. 1-2 months ago.  I heard just the tail end of the interview but did not get the name of the book. I know that the author was male and he was able to successfully treat his migraines and hasn’t had one for two years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Dotty

Response:

Jim,      Welcome to the group.  I hate to hear of stories like yours!  It is so aggrivating!. I agree wtiht he others, it is probably time to find a new doctor.  I hope you find a good doctor very soon.   Take care, Jackie K

Response:

Question:

Please teach a newbie gardener the basics of dividing irises.  The specific Iris I have in mind is Siberian, I think, tall with lance-shaped leaves and small blooms.  The plant itself is doing wonderfully (20 blossoms and counting), but I’ve noticed that it’s taken on a circular growing pattern, with a blank space of soil at the center.  I understand that this is a sign that the plant needs to be divided and/or moved. How do I cut the rhiozomes to divide the plant? When is the best time of year to perform the operation? Do irises need to be moved to fresh soil occasionally?

Siberian irises have bulbs, not rhizomes.  You divide them [in the fall] by cutting off all the leaves about 4" above ground level, digging up the entire clump, gently splitting the bulbs apart, and replanting at about 6" depth, and 8-12" separation.  To avoid fungus problems, I generally wash and dry the bulbs before replanting, and dust with sulphur, but this is completely optional. To divide rhizomatous iris, cut off the leaves, dig up the clump, wash off the soil, and, using a sharp knife, divide the rhizomes into groups of 1-3 leaf bundles.  Dry very well, and dust with sulphur before replanting, with the rhizomes above the ground.  [In very cold areas you put winter mulch on the rhizomes after the ground freezes, and remove it in early spring.] As long as you are fertilizing regularly, your irises don’t need to be moved to a new location. Chris Owens

Response:

Siberian irises have bulbs, not rhizomes.

  Did you mean the reverse?  Mine grow in expanding grass-like clumps of nearly solid root mass so it’s hard to tell.  Looks more like a rhizome.   With healthy clumps of Cesears Brother, I’ve heard it recommended to dig them up and run over them with a car until you get them broken into managable clumps.  It’ll take a pick ax to get mine out of the ground. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

Please teach a newbie gardener the basics of dividing irises.  The specific Iris I have in mind is Siberian, I think, tall with lance-shaped leaves and small blooms.  The plant itself is doing wonderfully (20 blossoms and counting), but I’ve noticed that it’s taken on a circular growing pattern, with a blank space of soil at the center.  I understand that this is a sign that the plant needs to be divided and/or moved. How do I cut the rhiozomes to divide the plant? When is the best time of year to perform the operation? Do irises need to be moved to fresh soil occasionally? Thanks in advance, Doctor Fang

Response:

Please teach a newbie gardener the basics of dividing irises. The specific Iris I have in mind is Siberian, I think, tall with lance-shaped leaves and small blooms.  The plant itself is doing wonderfully (20 blossoms and counting), but I’ve noticed that it’s taken on a circular growing pattern, with a blank space of soil at the center.  I understand that this is a sign that the plant needs to be divided and/or moved.

Sounds like a siberian, if the leaves are half an inch or so in width. Divided, yes perhaps.  It may be a good idea, but isn’t absolutely necessry if it’s blooming well and you’re satisfied with the appearance.  20 blooms isn’t a lot for a clump. How do I cut the rhiozomes to divide the plant?

Cut the foliage back to about 6" on the part you are about to cut away, so you can see what you are doing.  Take a sharp pointed spade and make a vertical cut through the ring.  Drive the spade down as deeply as you can.  You want to get as much root as possible.  Siberians are very deep rooted.  Move along the ring to include as many crowns as you want, or perhaps about 6" and make another cut.  If necessary cut also along the outside edge to free the section up and then remove it.  Take as much soil with the division as possible, to minimize root disturbance. Some people advocate doing this to a long established clump every year, removing 1/4 to 1/3 of the clump.  Each year you take the oldest remaining section.  When a section is removed it’s replaced with fresh enriched top soil.  This goes a long way to eliminating the ring effect and leaves a large established clump mostly intact to look good and still bloom well the next year. When is the best time of year to perform the operation?

Siberians are tough.  When it’s finished blooming you can divide it.  The foliage should be cut back (as above).  Keep the new division very well watered for at least several weeks to help them re-establish.  If you don’t want or haven’t room for the divisions send them to me! Do irises need to be moved to fresh soil occasionally?

No, but they grow more vigorously in soil that hasn’t grown iris before or in many years.  Iris give off a substance which acts as a growth inhibitor. Dennis Mathiasen Central NY Zone 4b

Response:

Question:

I like the foothills trail, and its connectors. a good 3 day is from upper whitewater falls to laurel valley. great views of lake joccassee, waterfalls, river crossings are bridged. Another three day is from Table rock to Ceasers head, side trail to top of Raven Cliff falls.

Response:

East-West hike through North Carolina’s portion of the Great Smoky Mountains Natioal Park.  Avoid the crowded AT. Enjoy your trip. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go? Thanks for any advice…please email direct — Jason Daniels

Response:

The best hike I’ve done in the east started on US Hwy 64 in NC, near Sapphire.  It consisted of going down the Horsepasture River, connecting with the Foothills Trail near the Lake Jocassee shore, over to the Toxaway River and back up the Toxaway to US Hwy 64.  It took 3.5 days, had some trail and some bushwhacking, a nice rappel down Windy Falls on the Horsepasture R. and was in some of the least travelled, most beautiful country I had been to in that area.

Response:

New York’s Adirondak High Peaks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go?

Response:

Spruce Knob area of West Virginia very nice, the head of seneca is great. Day hikes to the big falls of seneca, to the top of spruce knob, highest point in WVA.  Also close to Seneca Rocks an easy place to spend a day. To see pics of area, follow link to my home page. http://www.ncweb.com:80/users/crbock/ CRBO

Response:

If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go? Thanks for any advice…please email direct — Jason Daniels

Consider the Northville-Placid Trail. Length; 133 miles. 5 days going north to Wakely Dam or 5 days going south, and come back next year to finish. E-mail for more info. Rick Beardsley Olmstedville, which is arguably the center of the Adirondacks and thusly the universe

Response:

If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go?

I’d go to Maine, but that’s not within your parameters. Gerry

Response:

I’d go to Dolly Sods wilderness in West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest. If you like to hike long distances it might be too small for 5 days, but is a great 3-day place. And if you want to do a leisurely 5-day, you can find plenty of things to occupy your time. It may not be quite as spectacular an area as some places farther north or farther south. But it has got a peculiar landscape that is dramatic, spectacular in its own right, intriguing and quite wild. I’ve been there dozens of times and, each time, I find something new and amazing.

As a former West Virginian (and no, I’m not unusually intimate with any of my family members, thank you) I have to agree that Dolly Sods is gorgeous, but it’s no place to go for a 3-5 nighter–way too small. There are other places nearby that are fantastic, so if you don’t mind leaving the wilds and re-entering, it’s an excellent area. A great place is the ridge that you can see above and behind Seneca Rocks. There’s a trail along the entire length. You will have to decend for water, though. I always considered Cranberry Glades wilderness kind of boring, as WV hiking goes. It is quite vast though. — –your favorite soils professional

Response:

If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike:

Cranberry back country, Monongahela National Forest, West (by god!) Virginia. jeff Republicanism:  The haunting fear that someone poor may be happy.

Response:

I’d go to Dolly Sods wilderness in West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest. If you like to hike long distances it might be too small for 5 days, but is a great 3-day place. And if you want to do a leisurely 5-day, you can find plenty of things to occupy your time. It may not be quite as spectacular an area as some places farther north or farther south. But it has got a peculiar landscape that is dramatic, spectacular in its own right, intriguing and quite wild. I’ve been there dozens of times and, each time, I find something new and amazing. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go? Thanks for any advice…please email direct — Jason Daniels

Response:

Jason, You might want to consider Vermont’s Long Trail.  It runs along the spine of the Green Mountains.  The nice thing about it is that you can see Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks and the White Mountains from Vermont summits. Let me know if you would like more info. James Ehlers Underhill, Vermont Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

Response:

If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go?

Adirondacks or Catskills in New York White Mountains in New Hampshire

Response:

If you wanted  to go on the most beautiful 3-5 day backountry hike: As far north as New Hampshire As far sounth as the Carolina’s and as far West as West Virginia where would you go? Thanks for any advice…please email direct — Jason Daniels

Response:

Question:

:   : Fishing Company and we have the Fly Tech waders in our online catalog at : I have been hearing good things about these waders and suspect that they I bought a pair of Fly-Techs 2 summers ago, looking for low-cost, light wieght pack waders. These were *junk*! The seam broke on the second use — the store took them back and said every one they sold ripped rightaway. They sent what they had left back, and will not stock FlyTech stuff again. I definitely wouldn’t buy these mail-order. But I’m just relating my experience; perhaps others have had better. Because of the boot-foot’s popularity in hunting, etc., you can get decent (though heavy) boot-foot waders at a reasonable price (my Red Balls are still going strong). But I’m still searching for some stocking-foot waders FRU (For the Rest of Us)… JonCook.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – :   : Fishing Company and we have the Fly Tech waders in our online catalog at : I have been hearing good things about these waders and suspect that they I bought a pair of Fly-Techs 2 summers ago, looking for low-cost, light wieght pack waders. These were *junk*! The seam broke on the second use — the store took them back and said every one they sold ripped rightaway. They sent what they had left back, and will not stock FlyTech stuff again. I definitely wouldn’t buy these mail-order. But I’m just relating my experience; perhaps others have had better. Because of the boot-foot’s popularity in hunting, etc., you can get decent (though heavy) boot-foot waders at a reasonable price (my Red Balls are still going strong). But I’m still searching for some stocking-foot waders FRU (For the Rest of Us)… JonCook.Jammerlab

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Rich, In response to your inquiry about boot foot vs stocking foot waders I prefer the bootfoot waders since my waders pull double duty for waterfowl hunting. I am always concerned about losing a boot when encoutering the muck associated with waterfowling. I am a representative of Champion Fishing Company and we have the Fly Tech waders in our online catalog at http://championfishing.com I have been hearing good things about these waders and suspect that they will be a good seller for us. Both stocking foot and boot foot waders are offered in both 3.5 and 5 mm weights as well as wading boots for the stocking foot waders. If you are interested in the Champion Fishing Company business opportunity check out my website at http://members.aol.com/blind10691/index.htm or e mail me for more info and a copy of our 200 page print catalog. Happy Fishing, Brett Lindsey

Brett,      I just pulled up "http://championfishing.com" and I was at the "Kerrville Telephone Company’s I-NET service" web page.  You may want to have someone look into this. However:    http://www.championfishing.com seems to work fine. Brian

Response:

Hi Rich, In response to your inquiry about boot foot vs stocking foot waders I prefer the bootfoot waders since my waders pull double duty for waterfowl hunting. I am always concerned about losing a boot when encoutering the muck associated with waterfowling. I am a representative of Champion Fishing Company and we have the Fly Tech waders in our online catalog at http://championfishing.com I have been hearing good things about these waders and suspect that they will be a good seller for us. Both stocking foot and boot foot waders are offered in both 3.5 and 5 mm weights as well as wading boots for the stocking foot waders. If you are interested in the Champion Fishing Company business opportunity check out my website at http://members.aol.com/blind10691/index.htm or e mail me for more info and a copy of our 200 page print catalog. Happy Fishing, Brett Lindsey

Response:

I fish exclusively in southern chile. I used to fish with boots. not anymore. shoes are far more pleasant to use than boots. I use Hodgman shoes and like them. That is my experience. Others may disagree. Mario http://www.inteligente.cl/Clientes/Sur_de_Chile/sur.html

Response:

Fished in bootfoot wader for years and its time for a new pair.   Before I make the plunge for new ones would like to hear some of your opinions on which kind to buy (boot or stocking) as I can only afford one pair.  Also any comments on brands, types and/or styles would be appreciated. Thanks Rich

Hi Rich, Boot foot waders are very fast and easy to put on and are warmer in extreme cold. Great for certain situations. Stocking foot with lace up boots give you better foot protection and stability for hiking on streams. In our store in California we sell  99% stocking foot waders. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

How about durability ? I have owned a pair of Orvis stockingfoot for 5 years, I have used them a lot, and as a result there is still some neoprene between the patches and the aquaseal, I believe. Anyway, I have notices that even though I use gravel cuffs, I tend to get leaks in the foot area, because of friction between the boot and the wader (it is unavoidable, the shoe is flexible, thus there is friction). I am wondering if bootfoot waders are better from the viewpoint of leaks, or if they develop leaks at the joint between the wader and the boot. -Vittorio – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fished in bootfoot wader for years and its time for a new pair. Before I make the plunge for new ones would like to hear some of your opinions on which kind to buy (boot or stocking) as I can only afford one pair.  Also any comments on brands, types and/or styles would be appreciated. Thanks Rich Hi Rich, Boot foot waders are very fast and easy to put on and are warmer in extreme cold. Great for certain situations. Stocking foot with lace up boots give you better foot protection and stability for hiking on streams. In our store in California we sell  99% stocking foot waders. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Fished in bootfoot wader for years and its time for a new pair.   Before I make the plunge for new ones would like to hear some of your opinions on which kind to buy (boot or stocking) as I can only afford one pair.  Also any comments on brands, types and/or styles would be appreciated. Thanks Rich

Response:

Fished in bootfoot wader for years and its time for a new pair. Before I make the plunge for new ones would like to hear some of your opinions on which kind to buy (boot or stocking) as I can only afford one pair.  Also any comments on brands, types and/or styles would be appreciated. Thanks Rich

i think that it depends on what time of year you do most of your fishing and how much walking you do in them.  i would never be without my bootfoots for winter fishing (they keep your feet so much toastier, and are so easy to get in and out of)  since you already own a pair you know the one major drawback is that they are a pain to dry out, from taking a cold water dunking or sweat.  in warmer weather i wear stocking foots, but am thinking of getting some bootfoots, because they are so much easier to get in and out of.  one other thing, if you have bad or weak ankles, bootfoots may not provide you with enough ankle support.  i would recommend quiet sport or bare waders.  both have great reputations.

Response:

Best advise don’t buy rotten/cheap wading shoes….get the Borger shoe company that makes them ….sorry no address in WI somewhere…Millwaukee? Anyway once in awhile they have seconds which are of the high end boots like Simms, Streamline as they won’t wear any better or worse than any of the others. use a pair of nlyon Hodgeman’s about $40…..again 3 years old just died due to barb wire…….Cabela’s neoprenes are $90 aren’t bad……Mike — Enter the WWW fly tying contest by visiting my web site:http://www.commonlink.com/~Midwestflytying

Response:

Fished in bootfoot wader for years and its time for a new pair. Before I make the plunge for new ones would like to hear some of your opinions on which kind to buy (boot or stocking) as I can only afford one pair.  Also any comments on brands, types and/or styles would be appreciated. Thanks Rich

I find that stockingfoot/boot combo feels more secure and gives me better ability to cope with uneven river bottoms in the current. However, I keep my first pair of bootfoots around for use in the salt, so I don’t have to worry about corrosion of grommets, etc. on the boots. By the way, I got a pair of Danners, which are kind of pricey, but certainly not as much as a good pair of hiking boots. If you like to get into strong current from time to time, I would highly recommend trying a pair on. The Danners feel like good athletic shoes compared to some of the stiffer wading boots. I have seen an ad for a wading shoe by Bare that looks very similar in construction to the Danner, and may have the same benefits. Fish on, Allen

Response:

Question:

There is very nice fishing whater in the north of sweden. Lots of red solomon fish there and they are big.

Response:

= There is very nice fishing whater in the north of sweden. Lots of red solomon fish there and they are big.

Hi Peter, There is also some great trout and grayling fishing during the summer on the River Gim at Gimdalen (20 miles outside Bracke). Lars-Ake Olsson is the river keeper. — = Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products http://www.btsflyfishing.com Tiemco quality hooks, under $6.00 pkg/50

Response:

Question:

I’m planning a trip with several friends.  We want to fly into Albuquerque.  We’ve all been to the San Juan/Navajo Dam area several times, but want to go somewhere different.  We’re thinking about staying in going to Southern Colorado (Dolores, Durango, or somewhere near the Rio Grande River).  We are planning a 4-5 day trip and may consider a day of fishing at Navajo if the logistics work out.  We like low budget but comfortable motels.  Anyone have any ideas?  Fishing holes/destinations? Sleeping quarters? Thanks, Brian Sharp

Response:

  I’m planning a trip with several friends.  We want to fly into   Albuquerque.  We’ve all been to the San Juan/Navajo Dam area several   times, but want to go somewhere different.  We’re thinking about staying   in going to Southern Colorado (Dolores, Durango, or somewhere near the Rio   Grande River).  We are planning a 4-5 day trip and may consider a day of   fishing at Navajo if the logistics work out.  We like low budget but   comfortable motels.  Anyone have any ideas?  Fishing holes/destinations?   Sleeping quarters? Also consider the Conejos River and it’s tributaries west of Antonito. Lots of different kinds of water, lots of public

access and lots of good camping spots and lodges. Denver, Colorado        ftp.rmii.com/pub2/gwgodden      

Response:

Brain,  From personal experience I would like to suggest that you stay in Durango.  It makes a great central base to start from.  The Delores is about 1 1/2 hours due west and the San Juan is about 1 hour south.  The Rio Grande might be a problem because it is about 2 – 21/2 hours away due east.   If you looking for cheap lodgings pick up a copy of the  American Automobile Association’s (AAA) tour books for the states of New Mexico and Colorado.  They list just about every motel in the Durango area or the entire state for that matter.  They list prices too.  So you can shop around. If you are looking for a guide try:  Doug Buck at Duranglers in Durango, CO                                                   (303)-385-4081 He is familiar with just about all the waters that you mentioned. Good luck.  Let us know how you did.

Response:

Call Tom Knopek at Duranglers in Durango if you’re looking for a guide. Several great places to fish.  Try the Delores below McPhee Dam north of Cortez Colorado.  Try the San Miguel near Telluride.  Last undammed river in Colo.  If you’ve got the time, Black Canyon of Gunnison river is once in a lifetime! Andy Gordon Phoenix, Arizona Andy Gordon, (602) 224-0999

Response: