Question:

How far from the fly should it be? 1.5 times the depth of the area you are fishing.

1.5 is at the low end of where mine seems to end up in slower water.   For faster water, I seem to get closer to 2x to keep the fly from dragging the indicator under.   OTOH, that’s only a guess, since I’m never really that sure how deep the water is in some cases. Joe F.

Response:

1.5 is at the low end of where mine seems to end up in slower water.   For faster water, I seem to get closer to 2x to keep the fly from dragging the indicator under.   OTOH, that’s only a guess, since I’m never really that sure how deep the water is in some cases.

Very true.  Current does matter.  I can’t remember where I read 1.5x, but it did seem like a good estimate of the "average" for most conditions.  I think the biggest key here is getting the flies to the desired depth.   Sometimes using a dry fly as an indicator is much better than using a yarn/foam/cork type indicator because the fish are feeding closer to the surface and you may want to present an adult version with a emerger or nymph trailing below.  Perhaps the best answer would have been "as conditions dictate?" — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some questions: First is it necessary for the indicator to float all the time if you can see it readily under water? IMO, no. How far from the fly should it be? 1.5 times the depth of the area you are fishing. Somewhere I have seen directions on how to make your own indicator with poly or macram

Question:

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks. Al

Response:

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks. Al

Try the Rio Frio, west of Granada near Loja. JR

Response:

Al: Drop Tino an email and see ifhe can help you. He’s somewhere up in the mountains in Spain.

Response:

Havve a look at http://www.cybertrout.com./spain.htm http://usuarios.futurnet.es/m/marlin/index.htm http://www.caldea.com/fish/andfishi.html

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks.

Al

Response:

Question:

Reminds me of the time I hooked a fish in the dorsal fin.  I thought it was a monster because it pulled so hard, then I saw where it was hooked.  They sure can pull when hooked that way. Ernie

<snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What I did experience,which was unusual, on an Irish stream this summer was lassooing a brown- it rose to a small dry spider style dry. I struck, and thought I had hooked a whopper.When I got it in, I found the tippet had gone 360 degrees round the belly of a small  fish, and the fly had caught up in the tippet. I had dragged the fish side ways through the water! regards, Gillaroo.

Response:

there’s an easy way not to get tangled in the reeds.. don’t cast into them they have been using the same dropper system in Ireland and Scotland from time immemorial- so I don’t think you have to worry about using a new or specific leader/dropper material???  Gillaroo

Response:

I have tied bass flies with a weed guard by using a loop of heavy leader material that guards the hook point but will still hook an bass that hits it. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – there’s an easy way not to get tangled in the reeds.. don’t cast into them they have been using the same dropper system in Ireland and Scotland from time immemorial- so I don’t think you have to worry about using a new or specific leader/dropper material??? Gillaroo

Response:

Gillaroo, Here in NSW Australia we can only use 2 flies. Lake fishing it is common practice. I always tie the second fly off the bend of the first. A friend I often fish with ties a 6" dropper for his top fly (like your method). He seems to get hung up more on reeds etc than I do, but it does allow the top fly to swim properly. He catches far more fish on his top fly than me – like a %^&* 8lb brown two weekends ago! I’m considering changing to the 6" dropper system but fear too much tangling during casting – what sort of mono do you use – is stiff stuff preferable. Cheers John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

We fish 90% of the time from the shore, hence the reed problem. It can also be a real bugger when trying to get land a fish and your second fly hooks up on a reed – that is one reason why some people here just use single wet flies. Do you really use a blood knot and tie the "bob" onto the tag? I can see it gives the nice 90 degree angle, but I wouldn’t have thought there would be much knot strength in the tag. Cheers John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

Ernie, I’ve never seen a trout fly with a weed guard – I think they (often) take the fly too delicately and the weed guard would let them spit the fly. Cheers John Knight Stdney FlyRodders’

Response:

If anyone wants a sketch of how I tie my droppers, please email me direct- Ill be happy to send one. Gillaroo

Response:

John,    I use a six turn blood knot and have never had a blood knot come apart. The dropper is actually an extension of the last section of leader, so even if the knot came apart the dropper would still be connected to the line. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We fish 90% of the time from the shore, hence the reed problem. It can also be a real bugger when trying to get land a fish and your second fly hooks up on a reed – that is one reason why some people here just use single wet flies. Do you really use a blood knot and tie the "bob" onto the tag? I can see it gives the nice 90 degree angle, but I wouldn’t have thought there would be much knot strength in the tag. Cheers John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

John,    I think if you read my post again you will see I said "bass flies". Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I’ve never seen a trout fly with a weed guard – I think they (often) take the fly too delicately and the weed guard would let them spit the fly. Cheers John Knight Stdney FlyRodders’

Response:

Some snipped for brevity What I did experience,which was unusual, on an Irish stream this summer was lassooing a brown- it rose to a small dry spider style dry. I struck, and thought I had hooked a whopper.When I got it in, I found the tippet had gone 360 degrees round the belly of a small  fish, and the fly had caught up in  the tippet. I had dragged the fish side ways through the water!  regards,  Gillaroo.

Reminds me of the time I hog tied & landed a steelhead without hooking it.  It apparently went for the dropper, got the main part of the leader (where the dropper was tied to the tag of the blood knot)wrapped once around its jaw. Meanwhile the tippet made a full nelson around its pectoral fins (from forward under the left pec, over the back, from the rear under the right pec)with the point fly hooked around the main part of the leader. The dropper was hanging free about an inch from its jaw. Until I got it close, I couldn’t figure out why it was giving such a poor fight. Before you buy.

Response:

John,    I have never used them for trout either, but if I were fishing Streamers or minnow imitations I might try it.  They hit them hard. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I know you said bass flies – I just don’t think bass fly style weed guards will work on trout flies. The only "weed guard" I’ve ever used on trout flies has been with hackle, by palmering a stiffer than usual neck feather up the hook shank, with a bigger diameter than the hook gape – e.g. a bristly wooly bugger. Regards John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

Ernie, I’ve never seen a trout fly with a weed guard –

Dragon Fly nymph patterns sometimes have weed guards fashioned from hanks of Moose hair – the nymphs are fished down and dirty in the weeds and the hair keeps the hook point free of weed.

Response:

Ernie, I know you said bass flies – I just don’t think bass fly style weed guards will work on trout flies. The only "weed guard" I’ve ever used on trout flies has been with hackle, by palmering a stiffer than usual neck feather up the hook shank, with a bigger diameter than the hook gape – e.g. a bristly wooly bugger. Regards John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

In the UK our standard set up for lake/loch/lough fishing would have the flies maybe 5 or 6 feet apart, with the ‘point ‘ fly tied to the point, and dropper flies tied to a dropper maybe 6- 8 inches long tied to the main leader  using a blood knot or similar so that they stand out at right angles to the main leader.  Maybe you experience foulhooking because your dry/ nymph combo is only inches apart- what we in the UK call a dropper and you do are slightly different animals.When I talk of a dropper I mean the piece of line 6-8 inches long coming off the main leader.I have not experienced any significant increase of foul hooking using ‘our’ system. What I did experience,which was unusual, on an Irish stream this summer was lassooing a brown- it rose to a small dry spider style dry. I struck, and thought I had hooked a whopper.When I got it in, I found the tippet had gone 360 degrees round the belly of a small  fish, and the fly had caught up in  the tippet. I had dragged the fish side ways through the water!  regards,  Gillaroo.

Response:

Question:

I’m not sure how useful a strict definition of fly fishing would be. California, like many other states, makes a distinction for fishing with a single barbless hook and using artificial lures only which seems like the right thing, management-wise.  It’s not clear to me why you’d ever want to distinguish between fly fishers and spinning lure casters for purposes of management. In my book, someone who uses a spinning outfit to cast a bubble with a six foot leader and a fly on the end is fly-fishing.  I cannot see why you’d ever want to prevent someone from fishing in the above manner in waters intended for the more classical forms of angling with a fly rod.  (Unless, of course, you’re British! <g).

Response:

Yeah, that’s pretty much it.   If a state is going to have special fly fishing only streams or seasons, it should IMHO have a decent definition of what qualifies as fly fishing.  

I don’t think Georgia has any FF only public water, and I’m not sure I’d be in favor of it. We do have artificial only/single hook, etc type restrictions which I think are sufficient. I’d agree, though, that if you have a FF only designation you need a good definition.   — Charlie…

Response:

For what its worth, following are Connecticut’s official definitions of a fly and fly fishing. FLY:  A single or double hook dressed with hair, feathers, tinsel, thread, yarn or similar material to which no bait, spinner, spoon, plug, or other device is added. Extra weight may be built into the fly in its construction, as in a weighted nymph, and additional weight may attatched to the leader or line. The use of strike indicators is permitted.

This definition would make lead a head jig fly.  I believe some states have a clause saying that weight cannot be molded onto the hook.

Response:

In my book, someone who uses a spinning outfit to cast a bubble with a six foot leader and a fly on the end is fly-fishing.  I cannot see why you’d ever want to prevent someone from fishing in the above manner in waters intended for the more classical forms of angling with a fly rod.  (Unless, of course, you’re British! <g).

Rhubarb, rhubarb, murmur, murmur The right honorable gentleman from San Diego is full of CRAP!<g Mu Young Lee   Ann Arbor, MI  USA

Response:

For what its worth, following are Connecticut’s official definitions of a fly and fly fishing. FLY:  A single or double hook dressed with hair, feathers, tinsel, thread, yarn or similar material to which no bait, spinner, spoon, plug, or other device is added. FLY FISHING:  Angling with the use of a fly reel, fly rod, fly line, leader, and a fly or flies. Extra weight may be built into the fly in its construction, as in a weighted nymph, and additional weight may attatched to the leader or line. The use of strike indicators is permitted. George Adams

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -For what its worth, following are Connecticut’s official definitions of a fly and fly fishing. FLY:  A single or double hook dressed with hair, feathers, tinsel, thread, yarn or similar material to which no bait, spinner, spoon, plug, or other device is added. FLY FISHING:  Angling with the use of a fly reel, fly rod, fly line, leader, and a fly or flies. Extra weight may be built into the fly in its construction, as in a weighted nymph, and additional weight may attatched to the leader or line. The use of strike indicators is permitted.

I propose continuing this topic so that we might come to a practical definition of fly fishing that we could all shout out to our respective regulatory agencies.   Maybe some official definitions are already sufficient and concise.   If so, I’d love to hear them.   The Connecticut definition above, however, falls short IMO because of what is does not exclude.   Under that definition, an angler use the chuck and duck method of throwing weight but still be legally fly fishing so long as he used fly fishing equipment.   My own state regs (MD) are similarly vague. As I’ve said before, what makes fly fishing mechanically different from spin fishing is that with fly fishing, the fly is propelled by the weight of the line itself, not by weight on the end of the line.   Do you suppose we could actually work constructively together on ROFF to devise a concise regulatory definition of fly fishing that correctly and completely defines what we do? How do your state regs handle it? I’m serious.   For this topic, at least, forget all the controvery and BS we’ve been dealing with elsewhere and be rational and constructive.   We might actually accomplish something.   (I better stop before I start singing Cumbayah.) Joe

Response:

I propose continuing this topic so that we might come to a practical definition of fly fishing that we could all shout out to our respective regulatory agencies.   Maybe some official definitions are already sufficient and concise.   If so, I’d love to hear them. I guess I don’t understand whay fly fishing needs to be defined. Are you proposing fly-fishing only waters, special seasons, etc? — Charlie…

Yeah, that’s pretty much it.   If a state is going to have special fly fishing only streams or seasons, it should IMHO have a decent definition of what qualifies as fly fishing.   In my home state of Maryland, we do have FFO streams, and violations of the spirit of that regulation are not, to my knowledge, a problem here.   However, since I read this post right after a discussion of fishing on the Salmon R. in NY, the abuse of the FFO regulation there was fresh in my mind.   I’ve kind of had a burr under my saddle about that for a few years now.   It’s not my home state, but a substantial portion of the economy in that area derives from we tourists. If it’s not a national problem though, maybe I’m just spinning wheels. Joe Joe

Response:

Question:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all.

I got a bucks bronco.  Reasons why: a. Stainless steel frame b. adjustable foot pegs (especially important if you are going to run moving water or are taller or shorter than the mythical "average") Things I don’t like: a. LOTS of places for your line to snag, especially when casting across your body (which you will do if you use it on a lake in the wind and don’t anchor) New developments: a. They just came out with a 10 foot pontoon. I wasn’t overly impressed with the "all metal back deck" available on some of the boats on the market.  Other than that There aren’t many "features" that vary between boats.  Most are rocker designs, have a seat, oarlocks, and a stripping apron.

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all.

I’ve used the Bucks Bronco and like the newer models a lot.  I own a JW Outfitters Voyager and it is one tough boat that can handle Class III water with ease.

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Tom: I also have a Buck’s Bronco and also bought it partly because of the stainless frame.  My *only* minor complaint is the ratchet mechanism for the anchor.  Either mine doesn’t operate correctly or I’ve never figured out how to use it right.  It really doesn’t drop the anchor very easily. Other than that, I love the thing.  I’ve used it on streams here in Utah as well as Idaho & Wyoming and it’s great.  It has 8′ pontoons and I’ve had it on the Green, the Snake, and the South Fork, all pretty good-sized streams. I always wear a life vest, partly because I’m still not that experienced a boatman.  My dream is to take it on a camping float in Alaska. Good storage capacity, easy to inflate & deflate, sturdy and well-built.  If I deflate it about 3/4 of the way, it will slide fully-assembled right in the back of my SUV so carrying it is a breeze.  It really doesn’t even take long at all to figure out the rowing/kicking/maneuvering. I would say that you will occasionally find yourself pointed a different direction from where you want to cast (I do, anyway), but that can be part of the fun. Bob Bob

Response:

Look into the Outcast PAC line. The 8′ and 10′ are great. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Tom:  I’ve used the Buck’s Bag Bronco and Southfork models on the Clark Fork and Bitteroot, and they have been great, although other brands no doubt will to the job.  They have 7ft pontoons, I think (haven’t measured).  Have taken them through some pretty rough water as well. Never felt the need for an anchor or a stripping apron, although the rear deck is perfect for a cooler.  Have fun – you will love it. Mark Faulkner

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. I got a bucks bronco.  Reasons why: a. Stainless steel frame b. adjustable foot pegs (especially important if you are going to run moving water or are taller or shorter than the mythical "average") Things I don’t like: a. LOTS of places for your line to snag, especially when casting across your body (which you will do if you use it on a lake in the wind and don’t anchor) New developments: a. They just came out with a 10 foot pontoon. I wasn’t overly impressed with the "all metal back deck" available on some of the boats on the market.  Other than that There aren’t many "features" that vary between boats.  Most are rocker designs, have a seat, oarlocks, and a stripping apron.

I have a Yukon 2, by Leigh outdoor, and I work there as a part time job.  All of Leighs pontoon boats are made out of aluminum. (no rust) They tend to not be as heavy and are very strong.  We had a guy who came in who wanted one to run white water, he said he liked to fish on the side.  He ran it on the portion of the Snake below Jackson, and loved it.  I guess he ran that stretch 4 times in one day with it.  When he came back in he said that he tried to tip it over on "lunchcounter" or whichever one where the river narrows and is forced between two rock outcroppings. (its really big)  I guess he tried to go through side ways and front ways but to no avail so on the last try he through all of his weight backward and practically stood up on the foot pegs to get it to go over.  He claims he never had so much fun in his life.  It is a very sturdy boat.  Leigh makes a 10 footer for long trips as well.  It is the "gallatin".  The Yukon’s and Green river models are good for up to 3 day trips if you pack right. and are just fine for the 3 or 4 hour trip as well.  They pack down into a space of about 2 1/2 feet by 3 1/2 feet.  You can easily transport 2 in the trunk of a small car.  The unique thing is that the pontoons have a heavy inner tube in them.  (like a truck tube)  and are very durable.  All models have adjustable foot pegs that allows both big and small to be comfortable.  All the paint is powder coated on.   Not to bash other manufacturers but we have had so many calls about a certain manufacturers frames rusting out that our product designer at one time was thinking of making a frame that would fit on the competitors pontoons, but has since decided against doing so.  You don’t want a frame that has the potential to rust on you. Leigh frames carry a lifetime warrenty and are the only Coast Guard Certified pontoon boat that I know of.  They have many models to choose from and all the extra’s you can imagine.  Just find one that suited most to your needs.  If there is ever a problem you can call them and they will go to great lengths to see that you are pleased. When there is a problem and you have an upcomming trip, if they can’t fix it in time they will send you a loaner boat to get you through, until they can get your boat fixed up. Of course I’m not prejudice, I just work there.   They have a site but not all of their boats are listed, but you can call them and they will send you a catalog or tell you where the nearest supplier is or you can E-mail me and I’ll make sure you get a catalog. or http://www.b-mktg.com/leighhp/leighhp.htm or Leigh Outdoor Products 62 S. 950 W.  Brigham City UT 84302 1-435-734-0750 I hope you find the best boat for you. Shaun

Response:

Question:

: :Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it :is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   no, the accuracy is only good to 50ft or so under ideal conditions. — george jefferson

Response:

| Now, the question: | | Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it | is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   | Seems to me it would take a complete map of the bottom and more waypoints | than any  device could handle. | | Peggie Hall/Peal Products | Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 | (And should prob’ly stick to giving plumbing advice only!) | | Peggie, If your boating friends make such wide-sweeping assumptions that you do, then I can understand why they would run aground in the middle of a channel! Actually, many ocean-going boats have much more advanced guidance and navigation systems than most of the lake-trailers that you see on Lake Lanier. Auto-pilots and GPS combined are used by many fishing and scuba outfits to drop almost dead-on a target with minimal search. I’ve seen it done many times. Please read what I have written again. If I was looking for a target, why would I run WOT? However, if I was heading for a fishing spot on, say, Lake Hiwassee, and I knew the GPS co-ordinates, then why do you fail to see the value in inland lake GPS? Actually, there are GPS maps of many lakes available, with features pre-programmed. Plug and play, as it were. I doubt that any electronics, whether it be GPS or marine radios, can replace the instrument between your ears. Now, you want to talk useless. With a toilet at every ramp, who needs a marine toilet?

Response:

I doubt that any electronics, whether it be GPS or marine radios, can replace the instrument between your ears.

Absolutely true. You mentioned going fast, night running, unfamiliarity with powerboats, unfamiliarity with the lake (which has a nasty habit of changing week to week)…and spoke of using a GPS to do your navigating. But from your above comments, it’s obvious I misread your intent to use it to navigate going fast at night…Sorry!  However,  when you’ve heard as many stories as I have about some of the ideas new boat owners have, it’s understandable.  The best one recently was a dealer who told me about a first time buyer who wanted GPS and an autopilot on his new houseboat so it could take him back to his slip at night if he was too drunk to do it himself! I see bass boats hauling all over the lake at night at WOT (more often than not with no lights showing BTW)… occasionally hear of  tragic consequences….I just don’t want you to be  one of  ’em. Now, you want to talk useless. With a toilet at every ramp, who needs a marine toilet?

Anyone who has a boat with enough privacy for one who doesn’t  want to go find a toilet on land every time his wife has to pee! <gg Bring that shiny new toy up my way one of these days and I’ll buy you a beer…it’s the least I can do after insulting your intelligence! Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987

Response:

WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear.

Welcome to boating!  I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank.

Welcome to the reality of owning (and dumping money into) a boat . . .

Response:

For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier!

Gee, my GPS displays current course and speed. (In knots, statute miles per hour, or km per hour) If you go over the the sci… groups, you can debate whether the speed is calculated based on delta-t / delta-d or doppler shift. Lee Lindquist     lindquist ‘at’ ibm.net "Only 2 more years until people stop telling me when the millenium REALLY ends."

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! Gee, my GPS displays current course and speed. (In knots, statute miles per hour, or km per hour) If you go over the the sci… groups, you can debate whether the speed is calculated based on delta-t / delta-d or doppler shift.

So I’ve heard from a dozen people via e-mail!  Since there’s no real practical use for ‘em on an inland lake, the only ones I’ve seen were on friends’ sailboats on the Chesapeake Bay….and those only showed course and position. The owners  all have separate knotmeters. How ’bout expanding  my learning curve a bit more…first, the lake conditions: Lanier is a river in the foothills of the Smokies that was dammed and spread out over hills & valleys…around 260′ deep at the dam, but as little as 15′ deep up "creeks" out of the main channel. The water level fluctuates as much as 13′…what’s  6′ below the surface-and no problem–at full pool can "rise" to 2′ below it in a  matter of a week or two,  much of  it in the middle of  channels.  And the shoreline "moves" as a result.  In fact, the shoreline is "expanding" and islands  are shrinking–some have disappeared –due primarily to wake…Lanier is the most-used Corps of Engineers lake in the country. While the areas that are always shallow, many of which are passable when the lake is at full pool, but not when it’s down as little as 2′,  are marked,  it’s impossible to mark the ones that appear and disappear with fluctuating water levels as fast as often happens …and markers get knocked down. "Local knowledge" of the reefs and shoal waters is  essential…prop and outdrive repair accounts for a major percentage of the marine repair  business around the lake…even seasoned boaters who’ve been on the lake for more than a decade fall victim, proceeding VERY cautiously even in the daytime, and especially at night. Just last fall a friend who’s had a houseboat on the lake for more than 20 years lost an outdrive on an unmarked shoal in the main  channel of the lake, more than 100 yds from the shore…running at about  1200 rpms, but not paying enough attention to his course. Now, the question: Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   Seems to me it would take a complete map of the bottom and more waypoints than any  device could handle. Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 (And should prob’ly stick to giving plumbing advice only!)

Response:

| Congratulations!  You’re about to find out why B.O.A.T. stands for Break | Out Another Thousand! <gg | | However…. | | I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat | will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add… | | But first do the rest of us on Lanier–and yourself–a HUGE favor: take | a Coast Guard Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course! | | For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for | Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation | system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in | latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all | sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! | | You DO need a VHF radio, however…so you can call for help when you run | out of gas. <GG | | A boating safety course costs nothing but the time to do it. You’ll | learn the rules of the road, correct VHF procedure, how to read a chart, | how to recognize when weather is building and get to shelter before the | storm hits (I’ve been on Lanier in sudden squalls packing 45 knot | winds–NOT where someone in a 17′ open boat wants to be!)…safety gear | and how to use it–what’s required…a whole BUNCH of information that | could save your life–or mine. <g | | Have fun and be safe!  When you get the radio (and learn how to use it), | call SOLITAIRE…I’d love to see your boat. | | Peggie Hall/Peal Products | Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 | | Peggie | Thanks Peggy, I am reading a boating safety manual right now, which is probably more than most boaters do as a minimum. It is not my first time on the water, just my first power boat. I’ve have four other boats under the deck. Thanks, too, for the info on the GPS. I was trying to head off the corrective comments about speedometers not being accurate. GPS is a lot more useful than just finding your way back to the dock, in my estimation. It can be a safety device in tough boating conditions such as inclement weather or just being in the dark. Shorelines can be tricky to read in the dark, and one might not want to run next to waterway markers if there is a boat anchored nearby. Last, but not least, GPS can be used to re-locate positions, whether it be underwater cover, building foundations (my wife and I are divers, as well), and submerged islands, particularly on the distant lakes where I plan to trailer my boat. Not too sure I need a VHF radio, though. I’ve got twelve gallons of gas and I am an awful cautious. I switch over a tank leaving enough to get back on in the empty. I prefer to have a HONKIN’ bilge pump with a redundant back-up to buy me enough time to get to safety or shore. I have been in a thirteen foot Ghenoe on a river when it was raining so hard and the boat was filling with water so fast that I couldn’t stop bailing long enough to set the gear out of the boat on the bank! I’ve also paddled the Ocoee river in my kayak a few of times and gotten chewed up by Double Trouble and Diamond Splitter, as well as Hell Hole and Double Suck, but I’ll say this…it wasn’t as thrilling as cruising the lake in MY BASS BOAT!!! See you on the water.

Response:

Congratulations!  You’re about to find out why B.O.A.T. stands for Break Out Another Thousand! <gg However…. I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add…

But first do the rest of us on Lanier–and yourself–a HUGE favor: take a Coast Guard Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course! For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! You DO need a VHF radio, however…so you can call for help when you run out of gas. <GG A boating safety course costs nothing but the time to do it. You’ll learn the rules of the road, correct VHF procedure, how to read a chart, how to recognize when weather is building and get to shelter before the storm hits (I’ve been on Lanier in sudden squalls packing 45 knot winds–NOT where someone in a 17′ open boat wants to be!)…safety gear and how to use it–what’s required…a whole BUNCH of information that could save your life–or mine. <g Have fun and be safe!  When you get the radio (and learn how to use it), call SOLITAIRE…I’d love to see your boat. Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 Peggie

Response:

I think its great that you got you’re first boat. I bought my first boat as well last week. Its an old boat a ‘72 Starcraft with a small motor (35 HP). We took it out Sunday and ran around a local lake. Sonce i was a kid I’ve wanted a boat. Someday, I’ll upgrade, but I’m just in heaven from this boat. I did not catch any fish my first time out, but I did not really try. Have fun and be safe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

Response:

This is what it is all ABOUT!!! Tear it up Tom & family…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

Response:

WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

Response:

Question:

Hello all:       I have been fly-fishing only a little while, and discovered the joy of small-mouth fishing the James River in Virginia.  Since its summer and the trout are sullen, it has been a great place to keep practicing my casting.  I have already gleaned a lot of information about using crayfish and dace style patterns, wooly buggers, etc., and I have been fishing the seams, bank overhangs, riffles, and the like.  Generally though, I have approached small-mouthing like trout.  Does anyone have suggestions specific to small-mouth bass that differ or are unique to this species, that improve your luck.  Also, any idiosyncracies of the James River? Best spots, places to avoid like the plague, etc.  I would appreciate any and all information, posted or e-mailed.   Dan Johnson

Response:

      I have been fly-fishing only a little while, and discovered the joy of small-mouth fishing the James River in Virginia.   Dan Johnson

Dan, I enjoyed fishing near Pony Pastures in Richmond.  It does seem to get crowded at times, but not with ffishers.  There’s a good Orvis dealer in Richmond that has a lot of smallmouth knowledge.  Also check with Harry Murray of Murray’s Fly Shop.  He’s a smallmouth guru.  Let me know how you do…                                           Randy

Response:

Dan, We’ve been fishing the Wingina to Scottsville stretch for about 20 years now.  There’s some beautiful water along the way and only two areas that can be a little hairy in the boats.  It’s best as a three day float.   Just don’t go weekends because of all of the tubers on the river. Doug

Response:

Question:

Have some new fly fishing gear and new to the sport.  Planning to go out on my first outing to the Deerfield in western Mass this weekend.  If any out there know of a good spot to start I’d appreciate the info.  Have enjoyed following this newgroup for some time.  Now I guess it’s time to take the first of many enjoyable steps. Thanks in advance for any info. Claude

Response:

If you are going out tothe deerfield you better find out how the water level is water has been running real high this year makes for real hard fishing.

Response:

Have some new fly fishing gear and new to the sport.  Planning to go out on my first outing to the Deerfield in western Mass this weekend.  If any out there know of a good spot to start I’d appreciate the info.  Have enjoyed following this newgroup for some time.  Now I guess it’s time to take the first of many enjoyable steps. Thanks in advance for any info. Claude

From all reports that I’ve heard, the Deerfield is basically not even fishable yet, due to high fast water conditions. — David T. Blizard CGI Animator Post Perfect inc. 220E 42nd St New York NY 10017 (W) 212 972 3400 X5394 http://www.users.interport.net/~daveb "Pork, the other white meat!"

Response:

Have some new fly fishing gear and new to the sport.  Planning to go out on my first outing to the Deerfield in western Mass this weekend.  If any out there know of a good spot to start I’d appreciate the info.  Have enjoyed following this newgroup for some time.  Now I guess it’s time to take the first of many enjoyable steps. Claude

I am going to the deerfield also this weekend. I lived in a little town called Sunderland which, is a couple of miles from south deerfield (where Yankee Candle is). I fished quite a bit there from the route 91 bridge downstream for a couple miles. The water is a little slower moving but, you can find some great runs. Try right at the rt 91 bridge. There are a few likely spots. Hopefully the water will be down this weekend. I was there a couple of weeks ago and it was chocolate milk ! good luck.

Response:

Question:

Belize has incredible bonefish and permit fishing. Turneffe   Flats is geared to flyfishers and is one of the more   conservation minded lodges. Excellent guides and boats. Fly   Fishing Online has a group trip going there in September/95.   Call me if you want more info at 800 360-9731 or check out our   web site(see url below). Ken   Fly Fishing Online http://www.flyfishing-online.com

Response:

Been to El Pescador on Ambregas Cay (spelling??) lots of small, dumb bonefish…but fun. Tarpon fishing OK…moderate sized fish plus long , hot, slow,  boat rides daily. J.O’C.

Response:

Looking for information of Belize in late fall. Have you fished it, what were your impressions? Lodges, agents and the such, someone mentioned the Blue Marlin something or the other. If you’ve heard anything let me know.

Response:

I’d like to second Ken’s vote for Turneffe Flats Lodge.  I go down there every year in the fall–try to get there before the first cold fronts come through in early November–and always have fun.  The most reliable bonefishing I’ve ever seen, relaxed, flexible pace, very pleasant guides. I may be going there at the end of July to help them explore tarpon fishing.  If anything exciting happens I’ll post it. Marshall Cutchin

Response:

Looking for information of Belize in late fall. Have you fished it, what were your impressions? Lodges, agents and the such, someone mentioned the Blue Marlin something or the other. If you’ve heard anything let me know.

Haven’t fished it in late fall, only in spring, but hear from guides that the tarpon fishing is excellent in Sept/Oct.  Pressure is lower as well. We stayed in Holiday Hotel in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye and fished with local guides.  The guides were generally very good, as was the tarpon and bonefishing.  Staying in San Pedro is a different experience than a lodge situation, but you get to experience the Belizean people more, there is more nightlife, etc.  if you want the fishing and other things to do, this is a really fun trip.  email me if you want more info.                  /                 /                   John Woodling                /                    Sacramento, CA                   <     <

Response:

Question:

[snip] Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse? Any thoughts and/or suggestions?

The two line weight ratings usually refer to a double-taper line (the lower weight) and a weight-forward line (the higher weight). Eg: a 7′ 3/4 should load correctly with either a DT3 or a WF4… If the line you already own is a WF4, you’re probably all set for now –   although when you eventually replace that line, I’d go with a DT3: working a small stream with a 7′ rod (I have a Winston 7′6"/2wt for this) I favor a DT line for at least two reasons: roll casting a DT is a heck of a lot more effective than trying to do the same with a WF line; and a DT line lends itself to finesse than a WF (the latter tends to land with a splash). Regards, /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights.  First let me explain my situation.  I mostly fish small streams, where the trout rarely exceed 12" and the brush and trees make for very tight quarters.  I’m considering the purchase of another rod.  My current 8.5′ 7weight is too big for this type of fishing.   Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse?

Okay, This culd be answered in a long missive going into theory of graphite modules, but… A dual rated rod is like any other rod, it’s just being a bit more accurate about what you can do. That is, any rod will handle more than one weight, the weight orinted on it is what the designers had in mind. A 4/5 rod will act a bit stiffer and thus a shade less responsive with a 4 weight line than with the 5 line. On the other hand, a 4/5 with the 4 will shoot line farther and will be a quicker rod to set the hook with. Finesse is sort of in between the two, you will have lots of power and be able to straighten the 4 out, but with a 5 you’ld get better "feel". Hope this helps, ask away if you need more. Bill Curry Tight Lines Tackle shop and Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada Ph/Fax : 902-656-3329

Response:

I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights.  First let me explain my situation.  I mostly fish small streams, where the trout rarely exceed 12" and the brush and trees make for very tight quarters.  I’m considering the purchase of another rod.  My current 8.5′ 7weight is too big for this type of fishing.   Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse? Any thoughts and/or suggestions? Thanks, D.P. Ignorance is bliss.

Response:

I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights…… <mostly fish small streams…. I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight….. Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line….. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Any thoughts and/or suggestions? Thanks, D.P.

Hey, D.P. The long and the short of it is test cast them.  I have not cast either rod you mention and without knowing the action of the rod it is not possible to answer your question (not that I will let that stop me), so your best bet is to stick a leader on your 4WT line with a piece of yarn attached and try them out. I suspect you will find that the 3/4 is the better choice. In general for short cast situations going one line size up gives you better loading of the rod, and thus higher lines speed. Course the argument can be made that at short distances you do not get much of loading of the rod anyways and you are actually casting the line alone and therefore could use a broomstick for all the difference it would make,  I tend to figure people with that kind of attitude are Insensitive wretches who have no appreciation of the finer things in life. P.S.  If you have not tried out the ST CROIX rods give them a check too. I don’t know about their shorter rods but the 9 FT. 5 WT is the best casting rod for it’s price on the market (IMHO).   Steven B.

Response: