Question:

Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before and the groaning coming from the other room, spoke to his state of incapacitation. I thought the ROFFian method says to hand him a bottle of Wild Turkey, scream ‘Drink or Die, mother f*er’, haul his butt into the fishing car and careen wildly to the river.

What can I say, I forgot.  Does this mean I have to send back my decoder ring? Peter the worried

Response:

Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before … I thought the ROFFian method says to hand him a bottle of Wild Turkey, scream ‘Drink or Die, mother f*er’, haul his butt into the fishing car and careen wildly to the river.

But you’re forgetting that Scott, taking after his mother’s side of the family, is WAY too smart to be a ROFFian. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before … I thought the ROFFian method says to hand him a bottle of Wild Turkey, scream ‘Drink or Die, mother f*er’, haul his butt into the fishing car and careen wildly to the river. But you’re forgetting that Scott, taking after his mother’s side of the family, is WAY too smart to be a ROFFian.

That and the fact his dad likes to keep him away from influences that will lead him into a life of debauchery.  He can find his own way.  :) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before and the groaning coming from the other room, spoke to his state of incapacitation.

I thought the ROFFian method says to hand him a bottle of Wild Turkey, scream ‘Drink or Die, mother f*er’, haul his butt into the fishing car and careen wildly to the river.

Response:

Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before and the groaning coming from the other room, spoke to his state of incapacitation. I thought the ROFFian method says to hand him a bottle of Wild Turkey, scream ‘Drink or Die, mother f*er’, haul his butt into the fishing car and careen wildly to the river.

    ah, stan, ol’ boy, you will soon learn more than you ever wanted to know concerning the rather brusque nature of interaction techniques displayed by the subject of that little anecdote.     let’s just say that no one has ever called him "gentleman jim" roberts. your friend in the old north state wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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or how to screw up your first day on the Grand and still catch some fish. Scott was supposed to come with me but he had been out partying the night before and the groaning coming from the other room, spoke to his state of incapacitation.  I had put my stuff together the night before, just before I hit the sack.  This was going to be the first Grand trip after a season of steelheading so everything had to be dragged out of drawers, closets and rearranged. Six weights seemed to be a good idea to chuck some large perch streamers at the top end of the Grand.  It had been blown out by earlier rains so I was counting on high and dirty.  In these conditions, perch get washed through the dam and the browns have a field day with them. As I drive by Cedar Run, I can see that the water is a bit high but also that it is gin clear.  Scratch plan number one. I stop at the second access point – my car is the only one (miracle) – but as I’m suiting up, two more cars arrive.  The water at the access point usually holds a few fish but if these guys tromp through it first, that’ll blow my chance at them so I hurry up.  The little 6 wt. is taken since the perch streamer idea is done like dinner. I’m using a Type 6 fullsink on it – casts OK but the little rod is working – and I start swinging a little pattern – nothing.  This is a new pattern that I hope will successfully imitate small baitfish but I don’t move a single fish.  I work downstream while the car load work upstream.  The area around Cedar Run tends not to have a lot of defined seams and runs that would appeal to the nympher – mostly composed of flats connected by riffles.  However, the gang has parked themselves in a nice nymphing spot and after about 15 minutes, a dead brown of about 12" floats by.  Later, one guy walks by and I say the I noticed he had hooked one.  He’s quite pleased to describe it but I refrain from telling him the result. Should mention that in the process of hurrying I had left behind my tippet, thermometer, camera, and a couple of fly boxes. Should also mention that it was freaking cold and I was dressed for the summer-like temperatures promised for mid day. Should also mention that I didn’t get a single hit. To hell with Cedar Run and I pack up for The Trestle.  This spot has an old rail trestle bridge that is now used by walkers – it has a beautiful view of the Grand.  Directly below the bridge, there’s some slow water that has the appearance of a warm water river, but further down, the river is split by an island and as the river rejoins, there’s a beautiful nymphing run which is now my intended target but it’s probably chock-a-block with anglers. I unwrap the 20 something year old graphite Orvis Osprey – a slow 9′ 6" six weight that I bought over eBay.  The cork is still white – the rod having seen virtually no use.  It was an impulse buy and I regretted it afterward but hell, since I have it, might as well use it.  What a little gem.  About as perfect a nymphing rod as one could want. At least when I don’t catch any fish I’ll enjoin the experience. When I get to the run, there’s no one in it despite seeing fishermen above and below me.  Are they all nuts?  On goes a #18 bead head prince nymph that I had bought at the Feathered Hook last year. Within a few minutes of my travels to the dark side, I’ve hooked and landed a sleek, fat, 15-16" brown.  She put on quite a show, charging all over the place, making the JLH sing a few times and causing the gang upstream to cast covetous glances.  Swing her into the shallows, she’s lightly hooked, lift the head and slip out the nymph and she’s on her way.  A few casts later and I’ve hooked her twin sister and landed her in the same spot.  Grand browns at this time of year are at their most feisty so even a fish of this size takes a couple of minutes to land.  A few minutes later I set the hook into a larger fish but I was overly aggressive with the hookset and when it turned I had too much pressure applied.  Snap. I don’t normally hog a run but with anglers bracketing me, I don’t have much choice.  However, these hookups will be my last.  Back to the parking lot for some of Jo’s famous sandwiches and a reassessment. Can’t believe my nymphing luck.  The first set had been totally instinctive and I had been really surprised to find a fish on.  Watch out Louie, I’m starting to get the hang of this! A quick detour to a favourite spot at Inverhaugh but it yields only the briefest of hookups and a chat with a few anglers as it also gets busy while I fish.  A guide leads two rookie clients to the water and makes a big fuss out of walking across the water well downstream of me so as not to disturb my fishing water.  Thanks.  Too bad the next gang hadn’t been around to hear the instruction.  Again three, two rookies lead by a not so rookie.  He leads them into the water to cross within five feet of me and to tromp through the water I’m fishing.  As they approach, I expect to see them angle off but they keep coming. Finally, I advise them that I’m fishing this water, would they mind crossing further down.  The look of surprise on the leader’s face told me that he hadn’t even thought of the possibility that I might be actually fishing the water! Oh well, I still caught some – on a nymph to boot. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Question:

Hey Paul.  Finally took your advice and bought a kayak.  I think perhaps they should be outlawed.  You can get too close to tailing reds and it makes them too easy to catch. And, you can onto real muddy flats in seconds.  Before it took me forever in snowshoes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fishing for bass with a small popper I cast to the edge of a stand of cat tails. I got a little too close and thought I had snagged one of the reeds. When everything exploded I thought I had a giant bass. Then I saw the black tubular shape and realized what I had snagged. I was in a kick boat and began kciking toward a shore line (double time) as I stripped out line. In just a few seconds I was to the backing and still stripping. Standing on dry land I began to retrieve line to find that the snake had wrapped around a stump and I was able to break it off. I didn’t care to land it and wasn’t a bit curious about what kind of snake it was.

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….spat on by a squirrel….

Thanks Herman, I just spewed a nice Cabernet all over the keyboard…….hm…….come to think of it, that’s not all that funny after all….been there.

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and carry a small dog for the gator’s. — Charlie…

        what is this?  a very short fill in the blank nature exam?         hehehehehehe…         wayno

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – and carry a small dog for the gator’s. — Charlie…    what is this?  a very short fill in the blank nature exam?    hehehehehehe…

Wondered if you’d catch that (but I was betting you would<g). It’s for the gator’s dog to play with while you and the gator discuss dance steps – shufflin’ like a gator as it were. — Charlie…

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and carry a small dog for the gator’s. — Charlie…         what is this?  a very short fill in the blank nature exam?         hehehehehehe…         wayno

speakin’ of gatahs…. go gatahs! (hehehehehhe..) obroff: watermelon pond, located about 20 miles west of g’ville, has it’s name due to the farmland dedicated to growing melons on the rolling hills which surround this placid body of water. the melon crop provides the local farmers with some hard earned money (try pickin and loading watermelons in a hot Florida sun someday) and the fertilizer eventually makes its way to the lake which promotes good aquatic flora, which in turn promotes good aquatic fauna, which in turn attracts the likes of me. as is the case with most lakes located in the karst topographical zone of north central Florida, it is for the most part a hard packed white sand bottom lake which makes it ideal for wading in pursuit of largemouths. as is the case of most Florida lakes, if not all, it has its fair share of reptillean critters, and i ain’t speaking of crackers. amidst the pads and maidencane is where the big bass lay, waiting for the misguided bluegill, shiner, frog, bird, or snake to meander by. one day, while i was retrieving my streamer i snagged some hydrilla. i started stripping it in real fast and this now foot long plus streamer is streaking across the surface. a bass decides it must be a snake and hooks hisself on this mess. as i was in mid-strip, the bass is skimming towards me on the surface. one second i was fishing a streamer, the next i was fishing a big weedy streamer, the following i was fishing an even larger fishy streamer, and the next second i was hooked into about a 5 foot gatah. well, he had my "streamer" in his mouth anyway. cool. way cool. shit. i’m standing in about three feet of water and i’m playing a gator about 30 feet away from me. he does a roll and heads under water. the line is being pulled off my reel so at least he’s heading away, unless of course he’s making a big circle, which by the way he was. he surfaced with much aplomb about 10 feet from me with that big ole silly gatah grin only broken by my dead bass hanging out the side of his mouth like a cherished stogie. with a swish of his tail he’s on me. surreal moments live forever. i still feel like i was a ‘nole stunt man in one of weismuller’s tarzan zanies wrasslin a gator underwater. the fly, a flashy buggah streamer, dubbed a "wallymelon" by my fishing companion, is still in my possession. this is how i earned the moniker…. –wally gatah

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– shufflin’ like a gator as it were. — Charlie…

        oh, you mean that little number waldo does while explaining his late evening whereabouts to the lovely marie?  now i understand. wayno (a beach boogie man)

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…. with a swish of his tail he’s on me. surreal moments live forever. …

Great story. Did you live ? — Ken Fortenberry- right leg’s getting long, pull the left next time

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Great story. Did you live ?

only in spirit(s)….. oh yeah, some, not all mind you, of that tale is fictional wayno, you drsob. you fishin hazel this week? –wally gatah

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…. with a swish of his tail he’s on me. surreal moments live forever. … Great story. Did you live ? —

Who cares – Did it take you into the backing? Peter

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Great story. Did you live ? only in spirit(s)….. oh yeah, some, not all mind you, of that tale is fictional wayno, you drsob. you fishin hazel this week? –wally gatah

        yessiree bob, although the party has been reduced to just me and ol dash riprock.  why don’t you come up and see us sometime.         no shit, we would love to have you.  will be in a posh cabin from tuesday night until saturday morning. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Food for nightmares.. A friend of mine fished the coastal waters around Florida. Pictures of alligators. BIG stingrays all around your ankles.

That’s why you should always shuffle your feet to scare the rays… and carry a small dog for the gator’s. — Charlie…

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Food for nightmares.. A friend of mine fished the coastal waters around Florida. Pictures of alligators. BIG stingrays all around your ankles. Now you’ve done it: tonight I’ll combine the two and dream about bellyboating, hooking a big alligator in the nostrils, paddling back to see a snake dangling from the very tree I’m aiming for. Herman Fishing for bass with a small popper I cast to the edge of a stand of cat tails. I got a little too close and thought I had snagged one of the reeds. When everything exploded I thought I had a giant bass. Then I saw the black tubular shape and realized what I had snagged. I was in a kick boat and began kciking toward a shore line (double time) as I stripped out line. In just a few seconds I was to the backing and still stripping. Standing on dry land I began to retrieve line to find that the snake had wrapped around a stump and I was able to break it off. I didn’t care to land it and wasn’t a bit curious about what kind of snake it was.

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Yeah, right… scare the rays.. I’m Dutch, remember? The worst thing that can happen over here  while fishing, naturewise that is, is being spat on by a squirrel. Being circled by stingrays is already way out of that league. Herman, who wouldn’t put a toe in that water.

Yeah, but a lot of the ex-colonies have some interesting critters in the water<g. I don’t much care for gators, but bonefish flats are covered with rays. — Charlie…

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And that’s why one must always wear leaded wading boots when bonefishin’. Op

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, right… scare the rays.. I’m Dutch, remember? The worst thing that can happen over here  while fishing, naturewise that is, is being spat on by a squirrel. Being circled by stingrays is already way out of that league. Herman, who wouldn’t put a toe in that water. Yeah, but a lot of the ex-colonies have some interesting critters in the water<g. I don’t much care for gators, but bonefish flats are covered with rays. — Charlie…

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Yeah, right… scare the rays.. I’m Dutch, remember? The worst thing that can happen over here  while fishing, naturewise that is, is being spat on by a squirrel. Being circled by stingrays is already way out of that league. Herman, who wouldn’t put a toe in that water. Food for nightmares.. A friend of mine fished the coastal waters around Florida. Pictures of alligators. BIG stingrays all around your ankles. That’s why you should always shuffle your feet to scare the rays… and carry a small dog for the gator’s. — Charlie…

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Fishing for bass with a small popper I cast to the edge of a stand of cat tails. I got a little too close and thought I had snagged one of the reeds. When everything exploded I thought I had a giant bass. Then I saw the black tubular shape and realized what I had snagged. I was in a kick boat and began kciking toward a shore line (double time) as I stripped out line. In just a few seconds I was to the backing and still stripping. Standing on dry land I began to retrieve line to find that the snake had wrapped around a stump and I was able to break it off. I didn’t care to land it and wasn’t a bit curious about what kind of snake it was.

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Question:

Just read an article in my local paper about the NY DEC stocker trucks dumping their annual loads of browns and bows into the local rivers. 8" one year olds and up to 16" two year olds. i welcome a discussion on this program. i’ve heard a lot of pros and cons on this issue. one point is that is provides a lot of fun (if you like to catch dumb stockers), and that fishing pressure neccesitates the stocking program. the counterpoint (which i agree with), is that the inferior stocker fish dilute the gene pool and compete with wild fish for food. the solution seems to be more no kill zones on rivers so the population is not deleted in a single season. i’ve seen this work on rivers in the west where i used to live, and the result was a healthy population of wild fish that were a little harder to catch, but worth the result. in the state of washington where i used to live, the state’s policy is put and take, and they spend millions of dollars and employ thousands of state workers to dump gujillions of fish into the state’s waters. in more enlightened states (MT for example), its been shown that reasonable management of wild fish can result in a plentiful and healthy population. personally i’m not crazy about catching trout with raw noses from living in such tight quarters in the breeding tanks. the wild fish are much healthier and prettier. comments and complaints please. stephen in ny

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As a fellow New Yorker, I pretty much concur with Stephen.  With the vast financial resources of NY State, I think the fishery can do a much better job. While I’m strongly in favor of better stream/river management–a la "no kill/artificial only" to help build healthier and more ‘wild’ trout bases, I also believe that keeping some ‘Put and Take’ spots is critical.  NY should continue to heavily stock parts of streams/rivers near significant population bases where young kids can still have an opportunity to catch fish with worms and bring ‘em home for dinner.   This is what gets kids interested in the outdoors.  Sooner or later they appreciate the ’sport’ of fly fishing, just like the rest of us did, and don’t have a need to keep everything.   For example, I live in the Albany area.  There’s a ton of chatter about state of the Battenkill.  I think the DEC should stock the stream with healthy browns, and then restrict the ENTIRE river in NY to catch and release/artificial only.  Over the next few years, assuming people don’t keep anything, this river ought to bounce back.  Most of the Battenkill winds through very rural areas, so there isn’t a huge population base thats really affected by the change in policy. At the same time, the DED should continue stocking the Kaydeross and Geyser Creeks, understanding that ninety percent of those fish are going to be fried for dinner. The Battenkill becomes the classic trout tream it once was, and the Kaydeross is the stream we all grew up with… My two cents, but NY, has large opportunities for improvement. Pete

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Question:

I would also ask you and the others that would read this thread (because I know that the hard core guys will read it)  what is the one casting hint to give a flyfisherman. (I.E. in golf "Keep your damn head down")

"Aim for the water"

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Water Who said anything about water damnit!!!!  You guys never sid anything about that.  Does this mean i have to start all over again.  Water!!!!!! That stuff is wet and can be cold!

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Mike, You da man

My pleasure sir, glad you enjoyed it. The single most effective tip I could give anybody that would actually be of any use, is  "Do not break your wrist".  This is probably the single most widespread cause of casting faults generally. However, as you so politely requested, and praise, even when wildly exaggerated, ( you could have left Homer out ! ), inspires me to almost superhuman efforts, here goes: When learning how to cast a fly, you will soon cast with grace and pride, if you keep your wrist stiff, and your elbow tucked tight to your side, the muscles in your shoulder should do all the necessary work, keep your movements smooth and gentle, don’t overpower or jerk. Don’t wave your arm about, just move your forearm normally straight up and down, to start your cast, your line keep tight, and your rod level with the ground your casting hand should never go above your  shoulder height Your back cast should be straight behind, a small loop high and tight. The forward cast is just the same, a smooth and gentle easy throw, and the rod tip should not deviate from its path, and the line not drop below, the arc the tip describes, until at last you flick and  gently follow through practise this quite simple cast at first, until it

Question:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots? Bob

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

I have always assumed that the formulae refer to the finished length of the sections.  I allow about 1 1/2" for the knots, and this seems to work fine.  The nail knot is used to attach the leader butt to the tip of the flyline.  I use the blood knot, except for the tippet (last) knot, where I use the surgeon’s knot (three-turn version — I think the British call this a water knot.)  FWIW, my own experiments show that the surgeon’s knot, if perfectly tied, is stronger than the blood knot, but leaders tied with blood knots turn over better.  Since most breaks occur at the fly or the tippet knot, I believe that my system is a good compromise.  I have found that blood knots cinch up best when you tie them with one less turn of the heavier material than the lighter.  With the Maxima I use, 4/5 turns on the heavy butt sections and 5/6 turns on the lighter material seems to work well.  Heavy material requires a jerk or tug to properly tighten; the other knots should be pulled gently.  I am sure that I learned much of this from books or magazines, but my old brain can’t cite references.  Hope this helps.  –Roger

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In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

Most formula’s I’ve seen are finished length. I usually add about six inches for a knot on each end. You could probably use less, but I find it much less frustrating if I have plenty of material to hold onto when tightening my knots. As for knots, I usually use blood knots on the thicker sections. On the smaller diameter material I do something a little different. I tie a nail knot with the smaller material, but I don’t tighten it completely. I then take the larger diameter material and tie a nail knot with it on the smaller material. I now have two knots that will snug together when I pull on the opposite ends of the material. (I’m not sure if that description makes much sense, but it’s the best I can do!). This technique is admittedly a pain in the ass, but I find  it to be the strongest connection there is. When tied this way, I have NEVER broken a tippet off right at the knot. Surgeon’s or blood knots break at the knot quite often in my experience. Typically, I use this technique when I make up my leaders at home. If I am tying or repairing a leader on the river, I usually use the surgeon’s knot to save time. Tim — To reply by e-mail, remove "sick of spam" from my return address!

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In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots? Bob

I would think most formulas are finished lengths. You will have to give yourself what extra length it will take you to tie the knots. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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As for knots, I usually use blood knots on the thicker sections. On the smaller diameter material I do something a little different. I tie a nail knot with the smaller material, but I don’t tighten it completely. I then take the larger diameter material and tie a nail knot with it on the smaller material. I now have two knots that will snug together when I pull on the opposite ends of the material. (I’m not sure if that description makes much sense, but it’s the best I can do!). This technique is admittedly a pain in the ass, but I find  it to be the strongest connection there is. When tied this way, I have NEVER broken a tippet off right at the knot. Surgeon’s or blood knots break at the knot quite often in my experience.

I also use the double nail knot for my leaders…mainly because I never learned to tie a proper bloodknot and the double nail is easy with a knot-tying tool (they almost all have instructions on how to tie the double nail). I’ve never heard anyone talk about which is stronger, and assumed it was the bloodknot since that’s what everyone recommends. Typically, I use this technique when I make up my leaders at home. If I am tying or repairing a leader on the river, I usually use the surgeon’s knot to save time.

Same here. Ric

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

Hi Bob, In leader formulas the length is the finished length.  Don’t get too anal about it though, if you’re off by an inch or so it will still work.  The idea in the tapering sections is to smoothly transmit the power from the fly line down through the leader to the tippet without hinging.  You just need enough line in each section to make that transition.  Try to keep the proportions close as that is the most important (proportion of butt section to tapering section to tippet section) and has the most affect on the performance of the leader. I like to use the nail knot to attach my leader to the fly line (smallest, smoothest connection), the blood knot for the knots in the butt and tapering section (smallest, smoothest connection again), and either the double surgeon’s knot or the Orvis tippet knot for the tippet (extra bulk doesn’t matter here – strength does). When using the blood knot, use only 3 to a maximum or 4 turns in the butt section, 5 turns in the tapering section, and, if you insist on using the blood knot with your tippets, 6 turns with 6X and 7 turns with 7X.  The more turns you use, the more secure the knot is *IF* you can seat it correctly and completely.  Smaller material uses more turns, thicker material demands fewer turns.   A five turn blood knot is almost impossible to seat well in .021" material and will easily slip after soaking in the water for a few minutes if not totally seated.  I typically use a 3 turn blood knot in the butt section and never have it fail. Beware of using other knots in the heavy part of your leader.  The blood knot is the smallest knot you can tie in monofilament, and the easiest to move through the guides.  A double surgeon’s knot is twice as bulky, and although very slightly stronger than a blood knot, also tends to get caught in the corners of the snake guides when that big fish makes one final lunge.  This results in broken-off fish, zippered-off line guides, broken rod as it gets stuck in the tip-top, or all of the above.  Not a good choice in the heavy section of the leader.  The extra bulk is no big deal in the fine part of the leader because it is just a little bump in the line with little chance of moving through the line guides let alone getting stuck in them.                                           Hope this helps,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

I also use the double nail knot for my leaders…mainly because I never learned to tie a proper bloodknot and the double nail is easy with a knot-tying tool (they almost all have instructions on how to tie the double nail). I’ve never heard anyone talk about which is stronger, and assumed it was the bloodknot since that’s what everyone recommends.

I started using the double nail knot because it is so similar to a knot that I used many years ago when I was a rock climber. The climbing knot was considered one of the strongest because it relies on the force of the knots opposing each other rather than simply on tightening itself under a load. I don’t know which one is actually stronger, but I do know that I have never broken at the knot with the double nail, but I have with the blood knot. In all honesty though, I’ve used te blood knot longer than the double nail so it just may be a matter of time. I’m sticking with the double nail for now. Tim — To reply by e-mail, remove "sick of spam" from my return address!

Response:

Dan Gracia, Your explanations of casting and rod flex finally tell me what have caused my problems going back and forth between different rods.   What is the Orvis tippet knot?  If its for connecting tippet to leader rather than tippet to hook is there a picture on the web or in a book?                                                  Doug Campbell

Response:

Dan Gracia, Your explanations of casting and rod flex finally tell me what have caused my problems going back and forth between different rods.   What is the Orvis tippet knot?  If its for connecting tippet to leader rather than tippet to hook is there a picture on the web or in a book?                                               Doug Campbell

Hi Doug, There is a description of it in the Waterproof Knot Booklet that Orvis sells for around $5.  It’s a slight variation of the Orvis knot to tie on the fly. Basically a figure 8 knot with two turns through the  second loop.  I’ll see if I can scan a copy of it and e-mail it to you.  If you ever get an Orvis knotless leader and send in that little blue card,  they’ll send you a plastic wallet size card with the tippet to hook knot on one side and the leader to tippet knot on the other – no charge.                                  Good Fishing,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Question:

HI and thanks, I’ll be in New Orleans early next month.  If you can recommend a guide, or other contact,  for redfish or other local fishing targets, I be very appreciative.   — Tim Ackerman "everyone lives downstream"

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HI and thanks, I’ll be in New Orleans early next month.  If you can recommend a guide, or other contact,  for redfish or other local fishing targets, I be very appreciative. — Tim Ackerman "everyone lives downstream"

Hi- I checked this out last year. There is a guide there by the name (I think) of Bubba Rodriguez (which I think they pronounce Buh-bee) who has been featured on ESPN in the past and was kind of a fly fishing pioneer in New Orleans. Unfortunately, I have lost his phone number, but maybe someone from New Orleans can help. I got the info by placing a post on Good Luck!

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Question:

About a month ago I asked for info about fishing in N. Georgia.  The response was very good and I thank everyone.   Well, we just got back from the trip to Ga., and I have to tell ya, if I didn’t see it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t believe it.  I discovered the Chatooga River, infamous for being the river where "Deliverence" was filmed.  What an absolutely beautiful piece of water!  I thought I was back in New England.  Fast, cold (61), free stone, clear trout water. There was a hatch of very small caddis, but didn’t see too many rises.  In NE I use a cased caddis fly called the Strawman; just spun deer hair trimmed short.  Gink it up so it floats.  Ga trout like it too.  Only had two days on the Chatooga, but managed a couple of nice browns (10-14 in) down-stream from the Rt 76 bridge.  Caught a few small rainbows downstream and upstream from the Rt 28 bridge.  Great river.  I also tried the Chatahootchi ( The Hootch) below Buford Dam.  Super cold – like 53; no hatches.  But lotsa fog!  Dragged a nymph or two, and lobbed a few streamers, but got zilch.  The rocks on this river are the slimiest, most slippery I’ve ever encountered!  I checked out the Hootch above the lake (iat next trip.  Also, I’d like to try the Chatooga just below the NC border.  Anyone know how to get there? The roads in Georgia are also terrific, and gas was $1.07 a gallon (it’s $1.50 here in Mass)!  Georgia’s not NH or Maine, but it’s great!   Good drifts, Dave LaCourse

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[snip] The rocks on this river are the slimiest, most slippery I’ve ever encountered!

You don’t even want to ask what that slick stuff is! Also, I’d like to try the Chatooga just below the NC border.  Anyone know how to get there?

Go east from the river on Hwy 28 .  Hwy 107 will enter from the left. Take 107 north until you pass the state park on the right.  Start looking for the sign on the left for Burrells Ford road.  It’s a couple of miles down this road to the river.  When you get to the river the NC state line is about 4-4 1/2 miles upstream.  This part of the river is mainly brown trout water and is not stocked.  A good trail goes upstream on the east (South Carolina) side of the river. You can fish on the South Carolina side of the river with a Georgia license, just don’t go up any feeder streams.  As an alternate go west from the river on hwy 28.  Take the first gravel road to the right. That will bring you in to the opposite side of Burrells Ford. The roads in Georgia are also terrific, and gas was $1.07 a gallon (it’s $1.50 here in Mass)!  Georgia’s not NH or Maine, but it’s great!  

We don’t tax gas heavy but did you check the price of beer and cigs? Got to make those sinners pay! See ya, John Johnson Atlanta, GA

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Question:

Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.  After I have them out of the baggie (where I store them in thier little plastic containers) I find that if I leave them in the little plastic containers they spill all over the place.  If I pour them out of their containers into the baggies and then try to get one at a time…well lets just say my carpet is well beaded.:-)  Any suggestions greatly appreciated. TIA Doris

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I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Pamela CALVIN: "You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don’t          help." HOBBES: "Well, you’ve done all you can do." Pamela A. Jones

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Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I think everyone has a different preferred storage method.  However, when I am working with them, I use a tray from LoRan that has six large compartments with built in pouring spouts and each compartment has it’s own clear lid.  Along the two long sides of this "tray" are troughs for use in laying out beads when you are doing a row of different coloured beads.  (Anyone who has done earthdancer knows what I mean by this and this tray was wonderfully handy while I was doing her.  *grin*)  I paid $4 for it at my local cross stitch shop.   Susan H. Simko

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I use the lid of my Craft-Stor tote.  It has several raised lines to hold the beads in and the area is large enough to let them spread out.   Meg in Los Angeles

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

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| I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them | on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from | rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can | just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight.   How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type? — My opinions are my own; if IBM shares them, they haven’t told me.

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Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I use little metal tart tins.  They are fluted for making *little* cakes actually.  My finger fits the flute and I am able to pull one bead at a time.  Also, the sides are high.  Similary and almost as good (except for the flutes) are little dishes for "on the side" foods, like soy sauce or salt cellars.  I find most of my gadgets either in the fishing or cooking sections. Keltia — "And the trouble is, if you don’t risk anything, you risk even more"                                 -Erica Jong

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Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight. How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type?

I (for the next 4 weeks) do live alone!  I mark the film containers with small white labels (1/2" x 3/4") which I also use the mark my homemake magnetic needleholder cards. Pamela

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I lost the attribution of who wrote this comment.  Very sorry! applying beads to a piece of work.

Since my beading projects so far have been small (Mill Hill bead kits), I put the whole project in a small tin with handles (I got the tin at Michaels and it shows an old advertisement for Singer.  They had another tin with handles of Hershey’s kisses, but I wasn’t too fond of the picture).  Thus, I can tote around my project when I am not working on it and when I *am* working on it, I just put the beads I want to use in the lid.  If I were working on a larger project (i.e. MLI or TW), then I could always use the tin to carry stuff like floss, scissor, needles, etc. and just pop the whole thing in my project tote and I would still be able to use the lid.  Then again, I may come up with a different method for those…I don’t know yet! — Bekki Lyn Conqueror of 2,7,10,13,12,15,16,18 "Tangled threads seem a stronghold/But illusions can deceive."   +++Fates Warning: The Ivory Gate of Dreams+++ "All acts of love and pleasure are Her rituals."

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

hi! coming out of lurkdom :0   i use a chrysanthenum <sp? tray that’s made for watercolours.  the porclain ones are nice, and i can put it into a padded carrying case, and carry my beading with me! happy beading, tree

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To store them (the ones that come loose or in hanks), I use those stackable plastic containers (buyable in craft stores) OR mini ziplock bags OR my new "discovery": mini glass jam containers, you know, those that they serve in hotel breakfasts… While working, I tried the plastic multiple compartments container, but my preferred method is cream cheese plastic lids. Simone BeadNet http://www.mcs.net/~simone/beadnet.html

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I have just discovered the multiple drawer small tool containers in the computer store. Each drawer is clear see through. With optional clear dividers, you can put 3 separate hanks in related colors into the same drawer.. You can pull the drawer out completely (there is a safety catch so you won’t dump the beads unintentionally) and pour out loose beads. They come in 15 to 36 drawer sizes. This is the first time I have found something to be excited about for organizing beads. Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

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Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company.   (The kind a clinic might use for biiiig blood samples—-about 6 or 7" long) They are clear and hold gobs and gobs of seed beads each.  (They also make a fun little "pop" when you first open them. 8 ^ ) I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…   I know there are several such odd-lot companies around. Monique in Bryan

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 Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

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Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist. Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!          ** Anne in Oregon                       ~ So many projects, so little time ~

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There’s a nice little system called the Bead Hive made out of little interlocking plastic drawers.  They get sold in sets of 12 for ~$10.  What is nice about them is that you can detach the drawers and just have the drawers filled with the beads you need for your project.  I’ve seen them in the CS&CC catalog and my favorite local needlework shop here in the Silicon Valley sells them too. Happy stitching, Cynthia

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I use the stacking screw top containers that screw on top of each other. The small ones are for the beads(I clip out the brand name and catalog number from the package as a label and slip it into the container with the beads), and there are slightly larger ones..I use these for my growing confetti collection.  These work fine for me…but will be kind of confusing as I start to stitch pieces calling for more similar beads. Mari

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My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!         ** Anne in Oregon                      ~ So many projects, so little time ~

I have found that our fly fishing shop has the best prices, by far, and better quality stackable containers (some bead shops have ones that don’t screw together very well after you get them apart).  Also, when I go to buy them, I get great service — usually I’m the only woman in the shop and all them men let me go first when ringing up the sale!  Chivalry lives! Karen

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Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company. I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…  

    Monique, wasn’t that American Scientific?  With their really goof catalogues?  Martha Beth

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Question:

I’m considering adding outriggers to my 22′ fishing boat.  Before I do, however, I thought I might try out planer boards which are set up to plane out to the side as the boat moves forward.  I would then attach a release clip to the planer board so that the line would free up from the board if a fish strikes.  It would seem to me that this type of system would be more practical on a small boat than outriggers.  Has anyone out there tried out this approach?  What have been your experiences? regards, gs Gary Segal, MD; Dept. of Medicine, UCI/VAMC, 5901 E. 7th Street, Long Beach,                         "AYMATAI"

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Sideplaners are very popular in the Great Lakes and probably the best bet as you use them when you need them and leave them when you don’t. Another easy option is some long rods.  I troll with 12 foot fly rod blanks turned out as trolling rods to get the separation I like. Another trick little item is a Downjigger — we’ll have some add pages on that in my Fine Fishing magazine — finefishing.com — in the next few days.  This sppeds and slows trolled lures to improve results. Sort of like rowing without blisters. Oh Fine Fishing has 600,000 words, 200+ articles, a half dozen recent awards etc. and like the NAOG material on our site, covers a lot of trolling if that’s what you like.  I’ll have a new So Cal saltwater editor on in the next couple of weeks too.a

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: I’m considering adding outriggers to my 22′ fishing boat.  Before I do, : however, I thought I might try out planer boards which are set up to plane : out to the side as the boat moves forward.  I would then attach a release : clip to the planer board so that the line would free up from the board if a : fish strikes.  It would seem to me that this type of system would be more : practical on a small boat than outriggers.  Has anyone out there tried out : this approach?  What have been your experiences? : I tried outriggers on my 20′ boat. I wasn’t very happy with the result. The smaller boat simply rolls too much, whipping the outriggers, putting a lot of strain on the gunwale mounts and jerking the baits. About the only thing that planer boards can’t do as well is to trail surface baits a long way behind the boat. They are also a little harder to work; you should have two people in the boat to manage them easily. — We sense that life is a dark comedy and maybe we can live with that. However, because the whole thing is written for the entertainment of the gods, too many of the jokes go right over our heads.     (D. R. Koontz)

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Question:

I routinely got "compression leaks" in the feet of my waders.  I switched to boot foot waders.  I’m not sure what to do about these leaks due to the the neoprene getting compressed to the point that the inner and outer skin touch each other.  I also would be interested in how to deal with these besides throwing them out.  Also how do you prevent the feet from getting compressed? Bill A.

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Neoprene compression is a problem because you stand on them all the time, and when neoprene gets compressed flat, it usually leaks.  Most companies who still use neoprene soles make them 5 mils thick to compensate for this and make them last longer.  Many of these companies will replace the foot on your waders for around $60.  Orvis uses Hypalon foam on the feet which is s foam version of the same stuff Zodiac boats are made out of, doesn’t need the extra bulk, and doesn’t suffer from this compression problem.  In fact that is the biggest reason they can offer their 4 year warranty on their waders without eating a bunch of waders.  Many other companies have followed suit, and from personal experience I highly recommend waders with Hypalon soles.  Keep repairing yours as long as is practical, but next time get waders with Hypalon soles for more durability. Dan Gracia Schools Coordinator Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Bill, Waders with serious compression leaks in the feet can only be salvaged by sending them back to the manufacturer to have the foot portion of the wader replaced.  If you choose not to go this route, consider recycling the old waders before you throw them out.  With a razor knife you can cut up portions of the old waders to make gravel guards, knee pads, a butt pad, mouse pads for all your family…  Your question regarding prevention of compression leaks prompted me to examine the feet of my own waders. I’m 230 lbs (lots of compression!) and found some areas showing compression on 3 year old waders.  Without knowing what brand of wader you have or how often you use them, I’m not sure how to answer your question regarding prevention of compression.  I do know that all neoprene materials are not equal and the better materials are more resistant to compression.   Best wishes, Clay

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:  Also how do you prevent the : feet from getting compressed? : Bill A. Bill,  Fill your pockets with helium before heading off to     your favorite pool.  That should reduce the compression on both your wader feet and your socks! :^) Charley

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Are you suggesting loosing a few pounds might help? Bill A.

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: Are you suggesting loosing a few pounds might help? : Bill A. Heaven’s, No, Bill.  Compensating, that’s the key.  Loosing weight has no glamour of tinkering.  Contriving to counter the weight is THE way to go! Charley

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: How about this.. instead of losing weight, or injecting helium, perhaps : why not cutt off your feet?  If you do this, then there will be no : compression on the soles… of course, this would lead to other problesm, : is guess. : edwin aguilar You could also just walk on your hands…..course, you may have to hold your breath while casting with your, er, ah, ….. foot, yeah, your foot! Charley

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  Contriving to counter the weight is THE way to go! Charley

I AGREE. How about this.. instead of losing weight, or injecting helium, perhaps why not cutt off your feet?  If you do this, then there will be no compression on the soles… of course, this would lead to other problesm, is guess. edwin aguilar

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Thanks, Robert Yee

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        Coat the effected area with Simms Seal. This is a brown or blue urethane water-based emulsion with dries so fast you can use the waders in a matter of minutes. It also adheres to the neoprene extremely well and stops leaks.

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Would appreciate suggestions on how to, and what material to use, in repairingneoprene waders that have developed a small leak in the toe, appears to be a Thanks, Robert Yee

A product called ‘Aquaseal’ was recommended to me at a local tackle shop (Mel Cotton’s in San Jose).  I used it to seal up a rather large hole in the sole of my neoprene waders.  It works really well — dries up as a thick, clear rubbery seal that appears perhaps tougher than the neoprene skin itself.  Works wonders!  (Takes probably 8-12 hours or so to dry). J Smith Sunnyvale, CA

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