Question:

Seriously, what about its environmental impact.  I just switched to tin splitshots and no longer wrap my flies with lead.  I do eat 25% of the fish I catch and like to hunt water fowl. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I guess I’m going to have to call that last fisherman I had this fall and ask him what brand of flouro he was using as there was a HUGE difference in visibility of the flouro vs mono. The flouro was extremely visible even through 18" to 24" of river water. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

  Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. Flouro isn’t my choice for dries but I do like it for nymphing. Overall, It’s not my choice for leader material because I don’t like making major changes to my leader just to switch between a dry and a nymph. However, in a situation like we had at the San Juan where there wasn’t much dry action, I will use it. I also like it on the dropper on a dry/dropper rig. Willi

Response:

  Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use   fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing   either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at   least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother. I used some of the second generation stuff on the Juan this year and it’s very strong, tough stuff. I’m as cheap as they come and I’m willing to pay the price.

The LAST thing you need, Willi especially on the San Juan, is fluorocarbon. In fact, in your case I think it’s unethical.

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Way cool Alex, congrats on getting your KPOS…I know you will grow to love it, as I do…collect the whole set and be confident in the knowledge that you have saved the job of some little Korean cutie. Frank Sr. previous advice on tippet size noted

Response:

Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

The sinking doesn’t bother me much. In fact, it’s a positive, because I believe a tippet under the surface is less visible than one floating in the surface tension, especially in calm water and sunny conditions. I don’t think FC sinks readily enough to pull under the surface a well floating fly, although it may be a factor with waterlogged or otherwise marginal flies. My objection is just the stiffness, which complicates a drag-free drift.

Response:

I have used the Umpqua super fluoro and find it a lot softer than deceiver for higher knot strength. I like it and may, repeat, may change completely to it before the end of the season. (Consumer warning on above advice: yes I am commercially connected with Umpqua.) Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

Response:

Jon Cook writes: Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. It sinks, too.

Damn straight!  Makes it wonderful for nymphing.  <g   If you grease it to within ten inches of the fly, that portion will float, but the portion untreated will sink just below the surface, but not enough to sink the fly.  I don’t like its stiffness, however, for dries, but it is adequate when I am too lazy to switch. Dave

Response:

I have used the Umpqua super fluoro and find it a lot softer than deceiver for higher knot strength. I like it and may, repeat, may change completely to it before the end of the season. (Consumer warning on above advice: yes I am commercially connected with Umpqua.)

Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? I’ve had a few instances this season where a fisherman shows up with the new fluoro and the fish just don’t seem to want to eat his bug. I change him over to the old stuff (I use Umpqua but I’m not commercially connected to them) and, bammo, lots more hits with the same fly and all. I’ve held a rolled up fluoro leader next to a rolled up regular leader under water. I can see the fluoro plain as day. Couldn’t hardly see the other stuff. I’m trying to recall what brands were the suspect material but for the life of me, I can’t recall. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Response:

Brian Nelson writes: Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater?

Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.  YMMV, of course.  <g Dave

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Brian Nelson writes: Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.  YMMV, of course.  <g Dave

Response:

"Brian D. Nelson" Has anyone here checked as to whether or not you can actually see the flouro leader/tippet material when it’s underwater? I’ve had a few instances this season where a fisherman shows up with the new fluoro and the fish just don’t seem to want to eat his bug. I change him over to the old stuff (I use Umpqua but I’m not commercially connected to them) and, bammo, lots more hits with the same fly and all. I’ve held a rolled up fluoro leader next to a rolled up regular leader under water. I can see the fluoro plain as day. Couldn’t hardly see the other stuff. I’m trying to recall what brands were the suspect material but for the life of me, I can’t recall.

I haven’t had any real problems at all brian, but one thing I find interesting when fishing dries on fluoro is that it seems to have more trouble breaking the surface tension. When fishing on stillwaters I have all manner of problems getting it to sink at all. Of course, once it does break though it sinks faster than mono but getting it to break through can be a heck of a problem.. any thoughts. Clark

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Could it be floating more as I mentioned above? I believe the "imprint" in the surface film is the biggest problem with it on smoother waters. Clark

Response:

Just as a footnote, my experience was with dries, not nymphing. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com Could it be floating more as I mentioned above? I believe the "imprint" in the surface film is the biggest problem with it on smoother waters.

Could be. All I know is it was very easily seen while under water whereas the mono basically disappeared and it did make a big difference (at least to me it did) in the number of fish that came up to eat the bug. I’ll have to do a little ’speriment the next time I have some available. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

Response:

The sinking doesn’t bother me much. In fact, it’s a positive, because I believe a tippet under the surface is less visible than one floating in the surface tension, especially in calm water and sunny conditions. I don’t think FC sinks readily enough to pull under the surface a well floating fly, although it may be a factor with waterlogged or otherwise marginal flies. My objection is just the stiffness, which complicates a drag-free drift.

I’ve used it a good bit and the sinking doesn’t seem to be a problem (I agree with RW’s comment about it), but FC does appear to break more easily at the knot. Maybe that’s a function of its stiffness, but I believe FC’s advantage in visibility is outweighed by its stiffness, relative fragility at the knot, and expense. Bob

Response:

Yes, you can see it.  Quite well, aamof.  But, my experience with Orvis FC and Orvis Superstrength is just the opposite of what you note.  Went from 5x Superstrength to 5x FC and caught fish immediately.  I like it for nymphing because it holds up better to abrasion from rocks.

Funny, last year I took along the Orvis FC to the Salmon R, & it seemed to suffer more abrasion than plain mono.   So much so, I almost abandoned fluorocarbon for fear that all the surface abrasion would negate the refractive advantages.   (Then again this was 2x stuff, so it was a lot more visible to begin with.) Joe F.

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies?

After buying a new rod, that is exactly what I wonder too. Depends on how bushy the flies are and other conditions.  Experiment.  Use a tippet that will cast the fly where you want it, but not stiff enough to lay out straight.  Start with, say, 5x and see if it curls up nicely for you.

Response:

Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff.

reasons not to use flourocarbon: 1) too stiff for many purposes (harder to make a drag free float) 2) more expensive 3) hardness makes good knots elusive: IE the line doesn’t break, but    knots often unravel 4) the stiffness of the line can cause hellatious tangles.    …accidentally bounce the leader off a branch and you often    reel back a monstrous spider web. 5) environmental pollution:    nylon absorbs water and breaks down with UV exposure.    nylon lasts a long time, but flourocarbon lasts (by comparison) forever.

Response:

"while_1" reasons not to use flourocarbon: 1) too stiff for many purposes (harder to make a drag free float) 2) more expensive 3) hardness makes good knots elusive: IE the line doesn’t break, but    knots often unravel 4) the stiffness of the line can cause hellatious tangles.    …accidentally bounce the leader off a branch and you often    reel back a monstrous spider web. 5) environmental pollution:    nylon absorbs water and breaks down with UV exposure.    nylon lasts a long time, but flourocarbon lasts (by comparison)

forever. Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. 1) The new generation stuff is more supple than many equivalent monos. 2) Yep it is, but as you don’t have to refresh your stocks each season it can be more value for money for many. 3) This has been pretty much negated. 4) The stiffness has gone. 5) Mono isn’t exactly environmentally friendly either. The onus is on the angler to ensure adequate cleanup of excess pieces. In a reality sense the length of time flouro stays on snag isn’t all that different to mono. Clark Clark

Response:

Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono.

The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

"rw" < – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

I would agree to some degree with your conclusions. I don’t think the differences are THAT huge. But I think there are differences and times will arise where one will give you an advantage over the other. I don’t believe either material is perfect in  certain circumstances one will out perform the other. Having said that. My preliminary results using the new Super-Flouro is pretty encouraging. I’m not using it totally exclusively, but at the moment that’s only because I haven’t to been able to get it in all the sizes I want. I think I will but that doesn’t mean I wont find situations where I wont find a situation where I’ll want to use mono anymore either. Clark

Response:

I guess I’m going to have to call that last fisherman I had this fall and ask him what brand of flouro he was using as there was a HUGE difference in visibility of the flouro vs mono. The flouro was extremely visible even through 18" to 24" of river water. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana www.diamondnoutfitters.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Nearly all of the above reasons would have been true of the first generation of Fluorocarbon that came on the market. I suggest you try some of the newer stuff, it is much better and in many cases is superior on many levels to mono. The "selling point" of fluorocarbon (FC) is that’s it’s less visible underwater than because its index of refraction is closer to that of water than is the index of refraction of mono. I assume we’re all agreed on that. (It’s definitely not the price Some time ago I looked up the indices of refraction of "typical" FC and mono and compared them to that of fresh water. Sure enough, the FC was closer, but it wasn’t THAT MUCH closer — maybe halfway. I didn’t save the numbers and I don’t feel like looking them up at the moment. If it had been SPOT ON, I would have been impressed, but it wasn’t. The physics and neurophysics of what makes something more or less "visible" are complex. I was still skeptical about the claim. Then I took a length of FC and a length of mono (same diameters), put them into a glass of water, and looked at them. They looked about the same. After that, I was even more skeptical, and I remain so. We’ve heard anecdotal stories about how no one was catching fish, then someone switched to FC and started catching, and then everyone else switched and everyone started catching like crazy. I don’t put any credence at all on those stories. The same damn thing might happen for any number of other reasons.

Response:

  Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use   fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing   either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at   least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother. I used some of the second generation stuff on the Juan this year and it’s very strong, tough stuff. I’m as cheap as they come and I’m willing to pay the price. Willi

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Response:

4x to 5x works well.  I am leary of flourocarbon.  The stuff reminds me of the gas that breaks down the ozone in solid form.  Presentation is everything.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies? Thanks, ALex

Response:

I just recevied the three forks 3wt rod I ordered, and I went to try it out. It was much easier to cast than my 20 dollar wal*mart rod. It seems to have a pretty slow action, which is nice after casting the broomstick like shakespear. I was wondering, what size tippet to use for 14-18 size dry flies?

5x normally. If the conditions are really difficult (very clear, smooth water, bright sunlight, picky fish) then 6x might be better. Al Hammel mentioned fluorocarbon in a negative way. I agree. Don’t use fluorocarbon for dry flies. It’s too stiff. I don’t use it for nymphing either, because I think the putative benefits are nonexistant, or at least are so miniscule that they don’t justify the expense and bother.

Response:

Question:

Any recommendations for trout streams/fly shops near Steep Falls, ME in Late June? Thanks, Sam

Response:

Any recommendations for trout streams/fly shops near Steep Falls, ME in Late June? Thanks, Sam

Saco river would be good. Not sure about pond fishing but you might want to check a map and the regs and look for someplace. If the hex hatch starts early on one of those ponds, you cannot beat the action. Flyfish

Response:

Question:

Hard to compare a 50.00 pair of pants to an 800.00 appliance.

Cabelas should take an example from L.L.Bean.  While in high school I

bought  a pair of wool hunting pants with leather lined pockets.  About ten years later (I had gone into the Navy) I found them in

my closet.  The pants were in great shape but the leather pockets had dry rotted and fell apart.   Okay, they repair there boots

I’ll call and see if I can get a new set of pockets (I fully expected to pay).  L.L.Bean said to send them the pants and they would

look at them.   A month later I get a new pair in the mail with a letter saying that satisfaction is garrenteed for life and they

felt the leather should have outlasted the wool.  No Charge! When you are a top of the line company and treat your customers like your

job depends on each one (which it does) you form a brand – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – loyalty that makes your company solid and secure. — Bill Pentheny Adams Co. (Pa) Bassmasters Chesapeake Bay Retriever Relief & Rescue www.cbrrescue.org

Response:

Walter! L L Bean, Pants, $50.00? I need the catalog they send you. Best Mike N

Response:

Cabelas should take an example from L.L.Bean.  While in high school I bought  a pair of wool hunting pants with leather lined pockets.  About ten years later (I had gone into the Navy) I found them in my closet.  The pants were in great shape but the leather pockets had dry rotted and fell apart.   Okay, they repair there boots I’ll call and see if I can get a new set of pockets (I fully expected to pay).  L.L.Bean said to send them the pants and they would look at them.   A month later I get a new pair in the mail with a letter saying that satisfaction is garrenteed for life and they felt the leather should have outlasted the wool.  No Charge! When you are a top of the line company and treat your customers like your job depends on each one (which it does) you form a brand loyalty that makes your company solid and secure. — Bill Pentheny Adams Co. (Pa) Bassmasters Chesapeake Bay Retriever Relief & Rescue www.cbrrescue.org

Response:

Maybe it is just me, but seems fair.  Buy something, do not get around to using it for a year, see the same thing for less or a better item, send back old unit for full credit.  Looks to me like a way for a company to end up Enron Style. As to Cabelas.  Ordered a reconditioned MinnKota 65 AP -60" shaft last Thursday.  They said should be here on the 16th.  Arrived today, $13 shipping for both items (also bought a retractable mount) from Nebraska to Calif. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, despite my best efforts in discussing this with Cabelas, it turns out they will NOT let me exchange my Minn Kota for the one with the internal transducer.  Darn!  They apparently have a 60-day window after purchase & will not help once the 60 days have passed.  I really thought they might help me since I explained that the motor is still in the box.  So fellas, remember this policy.  That motor was $750+, so apparently "how good a customer you are" plays no part in this policy.  I don’t know how this experience will affect my future orders with Cabelas.  Opinions? Warren2 Thanks fellas, I like what I’m hearing.  I’m gonna give this a go & let y’all know how I make out. Warren2 I can only say I buy almost exclusively from Cabaleas because of their excellent service. I bought two Guest chargers  from them and both  of them was faulty One wouldn’t shut off and the other wouldn’t charge I Called them and told them I couldn’t get to it as it was at my cottage 500 miles away. No problem  I got a replacement and it too was faulty  I sent them all back at this time and got credit. I had to eat the battery the charger burned up but this was not Cabaleas fault. I ended up ordering two new Duel Pro Chargers and haven’t had any further problems The point is the girl said she would make a note on my acct of the bad chargers and  she did. Cabeleas gets a A+ in my book I will be ordering my new fish finder from their as well as some fly fishing equipment. Their good service will net them several hundred dollars in sales from me JMO — Highlander

Response:

You are 100% correct in saying this Bill, I won’t hold it against Cabelas. It’s been 5 months or so, not quite a year.  I’m just cryin the blues I guess, it’s been a rough week old buddy. Warren2

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe it is just me, but seems fair.  Buy something, do not get around to using it for a year, see the same thing for less or a better item, send back old unit for full credit.  Looks to me like a way for a company to end up Enron Style. As to Cabelas.  Ordered a reconditioned MinnKota 65 AP -60" shaft last Thursday.  They said should be here on the 16th.  Arrived today, $13 shipping for both items (also bought a retractable mount) from Nebraska to Calif. Bill Well, despite my best efforts in discussing this with Cabelas, it turns out they will NOT let me exchange my Minn Kota for the one with the internal transducer.  Darn!  They apparently have a 60-day window after purchase & will not help once the 60 days have passed.  I really thought they might help me since I explained that the motor is still in the box.  So fellas, remember this policy.  That motor was $750+, so apparently "how good a customer you are" plays no part in this policy.  I don’t know how this experience will affect my future orders with Cabelas.  Opinions? Warren2 Thanks fellas, I like what I’m hearing.  I’m gonna give this a go & let y’all know how I make out. Warren2 I can only say I buy almost exclusively from Cabaleas because of their excellent service. I bought two Guest chargers  from them and both  of them was faulty One wouldn’t shut off and the other wouldn’t charge I Called them and told them I couldn’t get to it as it was at my cottage 500 miles away. No problem  I got a replacement and it too was faulty  I sent them all back at this time and got credit. I had to eat the battery the charger burned up but this was not Cabaleas fault. I ended up ordering two new Duel Pro Chargers and haven’t had any further problems The point is the girl said she would make a note on my acct of the bad chargers and  she did. Cabeleas gets a A+ in my book I will be ordering my new fish finder from their as well as some fly fishing equipment. Their good service will net them several hundred dollars in sales from me JMO — Highlander

Response:

Well, despite my best efforts in discussing this with Cabelas, it turns out they will NOT let me exchange my Minn Kota for the one with the internal transducer.  Darn!  They apparently have a 60-day window after purchase & will not help once the 60 days have passed.  I really thought they might help me since I explained that the motor is still in the box.  So fellas, remember this policy.  That motor was $750+, so apparently "how good a customer you are" plays no part in this policy.  I don’t know how this experience will affect my future orders with Cabelas.  Opinions? Warren2

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks fellas, I like what I’m hearing.  I’m gonna give this a go & let y’all know how I make out. Warren2 I can only say I buy almost exclusively from Cabaleas because of their excellent service. I bought two Guest chargers  from them and both  of them was faulty  One wouldn’t shut off and the other wouldn’t charge I Called them and told them I couldn’t get to it as it was at my cottage 500 miles away. No problem  I got a replacement and it too was faulty  I sent them all back at this time and got credit. I had to eat the battery the charger burned up but this was not Cabaleas fault. I ended up ordering two new Duel Pro Chargers and haven’t had any further problems The point is the girl said she would make a note on my acct of the bad chargers and  she did. Cabeleas gets a A+ in my book I will be ordering my new fish finder from their as well as some fly fishing equipment. Their good service will net them several hundred dollars in sales from me JMO — Highlander

Response:

Thanks fellas, I like what I’m hearing.  I’m gonna give this a go & let y’all know how I make out. Warren2

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only say I buy almost exclusively from Cabaleas because of their excellent service. I bought two Guest chargers  from them and both  of them was faulty  One wouldn’t shut off and the other wouldn’t charge I Called them and told them I couldn’t get to it as it was at my cottage 500 miles away. No problem  I got a replacement and it too was faulty  I sent them all back at this time and got credit. I had to eat the battery the charger burned up but this was not Cabaleas fault. I ended up ordering two new Duel Pro Chargers and haven’t had any further problems The point is the girl said she would make a note on my acct of the bad chargers and  she did. Cabeleas gets a A+ in my book I will be ordering my new fish finder from their as well as some fly fishing equipment. Their good service will net them several hundred dollars in sales from me JMO — Highlander

Response:

I can only say I buy almost exclusively from Cabaleas because of their excellent service. I bought two Guest chargers  from them and both  of them was faulty  One wouldn’t shut off and the other wouldn’t charge I Called them and told them I couldn’t get to it as it was at my cottage 500 miles away. No problem  I got a replacement and it too was faulty  I sent them all back at this time and got credit. I had to eat the battery the charger burned up but this was not Cabaleas fault. I ended up ordering two new Duel Pro Chargers and haven’t had any further problems The point is the girl said she would make a note on my acct of the bad chargers and  she did. Cabeleas gets a A+ in my book I will be ordering my new fish finder from their as well as some fly fishing equipment. Their good service will net them several hundred dollars in sales from me JMO — Highlander

Response:

I bought a 74# MK Maxxum from Cabelas in the fall.  Now I get the new Catalog & they now have the same motor, only on the new model the transducer is inside the drive unit.  Two questions for you guys: 1) How do the internally-housed transducers compare sensitively to the externally mounted ones? 2) My motor is still in the box, never opened.  Will Cabelas swap me the newer version for the one I have? Warren2

Response:

You’d still come out ahead with Cabela’s. You will get full credit and only pay get free shipping on the replacement item. You will get stuck with shipping the motor back, but you will take a bath on eBay. — Citizen Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bought a 74# MK Maxxum from Cabelas in the fall.  Now I get the new Catalog & they now have the same motor, only on the new model the transducer is inside the drive unit.  Two questions for you guys: 1) How do the internally-housed transducers compare sensitively to the externally mounted ones? Dunno. 2) My motor is still in the box, never opened.  Will Cabelas swap me the newer version for the one I have? Ask Cabela’s. But know that you or they will have to eat shipping charges.  Probably you.   How ’bout selling the older motor here or on eBay?

Response:

I bought a 74# MK Maxxum from Cabelas in the fall.  Now I get the new Catalog & they now have the same motor, only on the new model the transducer is inside the drive unit.  Two questions for you guys: 1) How do the internally-housed transducers compare sensitively to the externally mounted ones?

Dunno. 2) My motor is still in the box, never opened.  Will Cabelas swap me the newer version for the one I have?

Ask Cabela’s. But know that you or they will have to eat shipping charges.  Probably you.   How ’bout selling the older motor here or on eBay?

Response:

…imagine if computer dealers would do that….I’d gladly pay shipping charges to upgrade every six months…let us know how it turns out, eh.

I bought a 74# MK Maxxum from Cabelas in the fall.  Now I get the new

Catalog & they now have the same motor, only on the new model the transducer is inside the drive unit.  Two questions for you guys: 1) How do the internally-housed transducers compare sensitively to the

externally mounted ones? Dunno. 2) My motor is still in the box, never opened.  Will Cabelas swap me the

newer version for the one I have? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ask Cabela’s. But know that you or they will have to eat shipping charges.  Probably you.   How ’bout selling the older motor here or on eBay?

Response:

I buy a ton of stuff from Cabela’s, and they have the best customer service in the business, hands down. You probably don’t even need an RMA. Go to cabelas.com and get the live chat and you can take it up with them there. I’m sure you’ll be pleased. — Citizen Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bought a 74# MK Maxxum from Cabelas in the fall.  Now I get the new Catalog & they now have the same motor, only on the new model the transducer is inside the drive unit.  Two questions for you guys: 1) How do the internally-housed transducers compare sensitively to the externally mounted ones? 2) My motor is still in the box, never opened.  Will Cabelas swap me the newer version for the one I have? Warren2

Response:

Question:

Thanks Possibly I can get a answer from IGFA before we go. I can almost see it going either way – Actually I guess its not very different from the way most tube flies are constructed since the head and front fly is mounted on the shock tippet. On my tubes I am using 90# wire with the 2nd tube between the 2 tandem hooks and then attaching the leading hook to the shock with a cinch knot and placing  a foam head and the leading tube mounted on the shock tippet. I am using owner AKI’s so the snelling doesn’t work – they don’t have turned up eyes like the octopus hooks he’s using. He’s not really planning on conforming to IGFA anyways and is planning to use 3-4′ shocks. I was just intrigued by the simplicity of his rigs. On the landing: On all my gear trips the standard has been to "leader" a billfish to boat to be released or brought in for pictures, but on standard gear the leader is like 10′ long.  I am planning to use about 4′-5′ total leader including class and shock. I seem to recall reading somewhere, or being told by a captain, that a billfish was "caught" or the "landing phase starts" when either the leader or class tippet went inside the first guide or something. After that the mate could leader the fish  to control it while gaffing, netting, billing  or releasing. Reeling down to the class shouldn’t be a major problem, but trying to "leader" a billfish at 3′-4′ sounds very dangerous. On most of my other offshore flyfishing experiences we were either gaffing or netting the fish so, it wasn’t much of an issue using very short leaders. I hope to get to read an actual IGFA book this weekend – maybe it will clarify the specifics. Thanks again for the info.

  Hello   I also submitted this question to the Igfa site under construction but I   don’t know if they are set up to give responses yet.     I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem   flies.     It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the   eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem   hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye.     1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the   shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line   be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock   tippet – class to trailing hook.   If I understand what you mean, no.  The best rule of thumb is to use tackle that   won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the   "technical record" charge).     A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the   fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the   connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of   shock.   See above.       Also I have another nagging basic question.   2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can   touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish.   Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock?   something else?   Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in   gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff,   DQ.   The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules,   and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If   you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge,   as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat   for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale –   561 area code).   HTH?   R

Response:

Thanks   Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online?   I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction   Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages?   Thanks     Google turned up this one:   http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html   —   Charlie…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook.

If I understand what you mean, no.  THe best rule of thumb is to use tackle that won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the "technical record" charge). A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock.

See above. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else?

Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff, DQ. The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules, and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge, as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale – 561 area code). HTH? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Google turned up this one: http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html — Charlie…

Response:

Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook. A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else? Thanks for any insights you might have on these questions Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Question:

I’ve got Chesapeake Light Craft Boats and Pygmy Boats Inc. Does anyone have other kit makers for wood/fiberclass ocean boats? Any experiences good or bad with building a wood boat? Annie Oakley’s Casting & Blasting Page, shooting and fly fishing links: http://members.tripod.com/~AnnieOakley/CastAndBlast.html "Web Poison"–FREE anti-spam software:http://www.e-scrub.com/wpoison/ Phoney Spam-Bot Link: http://www.e-scrub.com/cgi-bin/wpoison/wpoison.cgi

Response:

Nomad Sea Kayaks.  I have been told they make a good kit. http://www.clic.net/~nomad/ Mark

Response:

Nomad Sea Kayaks.  I have been told they make a good kit. http://www.clic.net/~nomad/

I was considering one when I bought my kayak but couldn’t find anyone that knew anything about them. They are also fiberglass only, not wood/fiberglass.   The Guillemott boats (wood) look interesting as well: http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/ I saw a boat in shop in Duck, NC (outer banks) a couple of weeks ago.  It had a fiberglass hull with a wood deck with wood hatch covers.  I have no idea what kind of kit it was built from but the owner of the shop built it and was selling it for $450. Seemed like a real good deal. John Fereira

Response:

Question:

Hikers need to understand something. Hiking boots are not made to walk in concrete. The soles are usually to soft. The concrete eats them up. If you plan to do some street hiking, go with a Timberland boot or somehing like that. If you really want a ‘hiking boot’, go with the Sundowners, Newbriers, or Skywalks. That way, WHEN you wear down the soles, you can get them resoled. Hal Why is misuse of a product the responsibility of the manufacturer? : My Vasque Hiker II’s lasted for 11 years and my Montagna’s for ten.  I : thought I’d never wear any other brand.  But the new styles seem to be : narrower and I’ve now switched to Raichle for fit.  I’d use caution : with the lightweight (leather/fabric) styles.  I bought a pair of : Vasque Clarion hiking shoes and destroyed them in six months on the : streets.

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

Vasque (at least a couple of years ago) had a policy that if the leather uppers start to come appart before the sole is completely worn, they would repair or replace the boots at no charge. I bought a pair of discontinued all leather Vasque boots at a rock bottom sale price of $75 several years ago.  When the sole began to seperate from one boot a few years later, I took them back to the store to get them repaired. (at the time I was unaware of the policy, loved the boots, and was willing pay to have the boots repaired).  The store sent the boots back to Vasque and a few weeks later the store called and said that Vasque was willing to give me a $130 credit (the original retail price of the boots) towards another pair.  I took them up on the offer and picked up a pair of $190 New Briers. My current roommate had the same experience with the same type of Vasque boots (I think they were "Libertys") and he used his credit to purchase Sundowners.

Response:

I waterproofed the leather on my Sundowners (which have been fantastic) just in case, but remember that even if the boot is waterproof, you can still get wet feet from water/snow coming in the top of the boot.  Don’t forget gaiters if you’re hiking in snow or in cold rain!  :)

Response:

Newbriers, or Skywalks. That way, WHEN you wear down the soles, you can get them resoled.

My mileage varried!  On my 4 pairs of Skywalks, Sundowners and Newbriers the soles all came off before I had a chance to wear them down!  Luckily they stood behind their product and replaced them.  I have since grown tired of that game and got a pair of Raichles with a real stitched sole. Good Luck,                 Whitney

Response:

Re: Vasque boots Over rocks, through streams, over snow, over dirt, over anything, my Vasque Sundowners have been _fantastic_.  I go up to people trying them on in stores and tell these total strangers that my boots have saved my life on winter hikes (since I have never gotten wet feet while wearing these boots, even on eight hour hikes through wet snow,etc.)  I have never gotten a blister, never slipped off a wet rock, never had any reason except to recommend these boots!!!  I say thumbs up!  Buy ‘em!

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I have had my Vasque Sundowners for three years now.  Great boots.  Sturdy one piece upper construction.  Solid yet flexible sole. They break in IMHO quickly.  They are my winter boots (NYC), hiking, and allaround  walking shoes from Oct-April.  I have gone flyfishing with them-a few hours in waist deep H2O- came homw cleaned them and waxed them a week later– they came back with great flexibility.  I just spent a week out west, Zion, Bryce, GC. One hike was in Bryce-900 feet down and up during a 3 hour hike, on some quite steep trails.  Never had a blister, actually since I bought them.  I can’t say enough about them. I will definitely buy a new pair, if they are still made when I need to do such- in about six years, after having been resoled a few times. That reminds me, I have to clean them again and get the red Utah dirt off of them. Hope this sways your decision. Brian CHarles — Brian Charles

Response:

        I just bought a new pair of sundownsers also.  I got them for pretty cheap ($160 on sale).  They fit the best out of all the boots I tried.  I would recommend them also, just make sure to try on several brands and pick the ones that fit the best. (Look at http://io.datasys.swri.edu/PATC/startout.html for boot fitting info.)         Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex? Josh — —  Senior M.E. Student & Computer Aided Engineering          – —      Laboratory Partner                                      – —  Engineering School – The hardest four years or the        – —                       easiest six years of your life.      –

Response:

        Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex?

I didn’t have time to seal them before I left on their first trip (I know, I know, I just didn’t *make* the time…), but they were quite waterproof nonetheless.  The leather did suffer quite a bit, however, from scuffing — I was in canyon country, very rocky.  Sealing them later has helped the scuffing, I think.  And I’m sure it has increased the waterproof-ness of the boots — but as I said, I never had any problems in the first place. Still, I think it would be irresponsible not to seal them.

Response:

Their cheaper models are for light hiking. Their midrange models are for heavy hiking/light backpacking. And their high end are for heavy backpacking. If you used the ‘cheap model’ for heavy use, I’m not at all surprised. If you told your sales person that you needed them for heavy use, he should have recommended a better pair. I work at an outdoor shop that sells Vasque and I know that any knowledgable salesperson should know the uses for the different levels of boots. Hal

: I hate to disagree with all the others, but I’ve had two pairs of Vasque : boots and neither lasted worth beans.  One was a cheap model and it wore : out VERY quickly (two months hard use).  I ascribed this to the cost of : the model — since I’d also heard Vasques were good — and bought an

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         I just bought a new pair of sundownsers also.  I got them for pretty cheap ($160 on sale).  They fit the best out of all the boots I tried.  I would recommend them also, just make sure to try on several brands and pick the ones that fit the best. (Look at http://io.datasys.swri.edu/PATC/startout.html for boot fitting info.)         Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex? Josh — —  Senior M.E. Student & Computer Aided Engineering          – —      Laboratory Partner                                      – —  Engineering School – The hardest four years or the        – —                       easiest six years of your life.      –

I use Nikwax cleaner/conditioner and then apply a layer of Nikwax aqueous wax. The bottle says apply 2 or 3 layers for best results but one protects the leather well and provides for an easy clean up and retreat. The only time my feet have gotten wet in my Sundowners (4 years, great shape) is when the water is deeper than the boots are tall. Great boots! — Thanx for your interest. Tom "The thinner the air gets, the clearer my head gets."

Response:

I like the Vasque boots I’ve owned better than any others.  My only negative observation:  in Scotland in December, walking on cold and very slippery beach stones in the western islands, I tended to slip more often than my friends, who wore boots with harder soles.  My Vasques now are the lightweight type with canvas plus leather uppers and fairly spongy soles, and the soles are now fairly smooth (I’ll need a new pair soon).  I found that in Scotland the cold made the soles a bit stiff and because they were smooth they were also slick. That’s not a complaint with Vasque boots, though!         Una Smith —         Una Smith               Department of Biology – OML                                 Yale University

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I like them quite a bit.  They tend to run wide, which fits my feet.  My younger son has similar feet and he’s gone through a couple of pairs of Vasques over the years.  Mine have worn quite well.

Response:

My Sundowners have never let me down.

Response:

I wear my Vasque in the same Utah scree fields and don’t have much of a problem.  (All leather) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have Vasque boots. Yes, lots of people do–otherwise they wouldn’t be in business How are they made I don’t know how they are made. Presumably there’s some sort of factory like set up… are they durable?   Yes, if you never hike in rocks while wearing them.  I was going to get a pair of their $180ish (I can’t remember the name) boots but everyone I talked to who also hikes reccomended against them.  In the scree fields of the Utah mountains (where I walk most of the time), Vasque got a definite thumbs down. your milage may vary, mike.

Response:

My Vasque Hiker II’s lasted for 11 years and my Montagna’s for ten.  I thought I’d never wear any other brand.  But the new styles seem to be narrower and I’ve now switched to Raichle for fit.  I’d use caution with the lightweight (leather/fabric) styles.  I bought a pair of Vasque Clarion hiking shoes and destroyed them in six months on the streets.

Response:

I hate to disagree with all the others, but I’ve had two pairs of Vasque boots and neither lasted worth beans.  One was a cheap model and it wore out VERY quickly (two months hard use).  I ascribed this to the cost of the model — since I’d also heard Vasques were good — and bought an expensive pair (all leather) at a local shop.  These lasted a bit longer, but I’ve certainly had MUCH better durability with other brands. The Vasques were, I must admit, totally hip and extremely comfortable though. — "Die young late in life!!!"                           http://www.unm.edu/~pflo

Response:

        You say your boots `wore out’. What wore out, the leather         portion or the sole? If it was the leather I’m surprised; mine         have lasted many years and I wear them every day. If it was the         sole that wore down, why don’t you have them resoled? I know         the last time I had mine done (by Morin Boots, Evergreen CO.         fyi) I was able to choose between a Vasque sole or soles from         other big name manufactures. I decided to stay with Vasque         because the softer material seems to grip very well.                 Scott   Marquette Electronics    8200 West Tower Avenue    Milwaukee, WI 53223             As anyone here will tell you: I speak for myself.        

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I love my Vasques – have used them for 4 years now – first in Nepal and now at home in Vermont.  Mine are the Gore-tex sided.  They were recommended by the outfitting shop over all the others they stocked and I have never been disappointed.  I have a friend who has the more expensive all-leather Vasques and he is equally satisfied.  One thing – I have always worn my boots with Thorlo Trekking-weight socks.  This may be key.

Response:

I believe Vasque all-leather Gore-tex boots are issue for National Park Rangers.  I don’t wear them because they don’t fit me comfortably.   That’s the most important aspect of any boot.  I wear a comparable Asolo which is very comfortable for me.  When you buy boots, make very sure they fit properly.  Fit varies according to manufacturer.

Response:

: Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.         I bought my first pair of Vasque boots in 1990.  Since then I have put them through quite a bit of wear and tear and they still remain in good shape.  Since I bought those boots so many years ago, my feet have grown AND Vasque has redesigned their boots, so I thought it was time to get a new pair.  About a year ago I bought a pair of Vasque Clarion Impacts for $105. I love them!  My little brother still wears my first pair of Vasque Clarions.         In all, I hear that Vasque makes good boots, and I totally agree!  I have also heard good things about the Vasque Sundowners and the Gore-tex Clarion Impact. -David B. Buckingham dbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbd bdbdb  UofL, Speed Scientific School                                         TIP#1836                             David Bryan Buckingham                              (502)397-5496 (pager)  Triangle Fraternity                                         HSC Lab Consultant dbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbd bdbdb

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.

Yes, lots of people do–otherwise they wouldn’t be in business How are they made

I don’t know how they are made. Presumably there’s some sort of factory like set up… are they durable?  

Yes, if you never hike in rocks while wearing them.  I was going to get a pair of their $180ish (I can’t remember the name) boots but everyone I talked to who also hikes reccomended against them.  In the scree fields of the Utah mountains (where I walk most of the time), Vasque got a definite thumbs down. your milage may vary, mike.

Response:

Question:

We’re planning a camping vacation in Minnesota — probably central Minnesota.  What’s the fly fishing potential in this state and where would it be best?  Can anyone help.  Never been in this area before.

Response:

We’re planning a camping vacation in Minnesota — probably central Minnesota.  What’s the fly fishing potential in this state and where would it be best?  Can anyone help.  Never been in this area before.

If you’re willing to fish for sunfish you’re about to enter heaven. If you want trout you’d have to try SE Minnesota or Western Wisconsin.  When you say central Minnesota are you thinking of the St. Cloud area, or Little Falls area, or further north? I can give more details if you’ll limit your region a little more. In general Minnesota is full of many small lakes.  Most of these lakes hold good populations of sunfish,  crappie, some largemouth bass and usually Northern Pike.  I prefer the sunfish because they’re almost always active and put up quite a fight on light tackle (3 – 5 wt.)  The standard tackle for bass is 8 wt.  You need to cast a long ways and you have to be able to pull them out of the weeds.  I’ve never tried Northern on a fly but an 8 wt, sinking line, and a big, flashy fly should work well. John F. Close

Response:

Question:

My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations? thx….. Bob

Response:

My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations?

I’d hit the road north and run up along the east-side of the Olympic Pennisula to Lilliwaup, and visit the Hama Hama River for some sea-run cutt’s… <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

Youll have so much fishing within two hours you wont know what to do:  to the west – all the famous Olympic Peninsula streams for steelhead; plus the Elwha for trout (near Port angeles); to the south, youll have the cowlitz, Kalama and other famous steelhead and salmon rivers (plus some trout); to the north (if you want to drive through seattle) youll have the Green, Skykomish and Stilly; to the east, you have mtn lakes, marginal trout streams and youre abnout 2 hours from the Yakima River, the states best fly fishing river….  Not to mention the Puget Sound salt water where people fly fish quite a bit, including from shore for salmon, cutts and snags. Have fun, Andy Taylor Pocatello, Idaho

Response:

Question:

I’ll be trying the Big Sur River just south of Monterey Calif. on Wednesday.   I figure I’ll use dark flies and quarter the stream.  It’s not a deep river so I’m going to use a floating line and let the weight of the fly do the work of getting down to the fish. So, what do you think?  Am I on the right track?

Hello Bob, We are all curious as to how you did.  If you caught one then you confirm the truism that sometimes a first time beginner can walk up to a river and catch a steelhead. Back to reality, our winter run steelhead are a very difficult quarry. They usually move quickly through the short lower sections where fishing is allowed.  Even if you can find them, you can pass a fly right in front of their nose time after time without provoking a response, although sometimes they will bite. And in many years like this one, the water isn’t clear enough for flies for months. They are a lot easier to catch on roe, but as a fly fisher I don’t find that very satisfying. I recommend you try the fall run on the Klamath and its tributaries, in late September or October.  They bite flies much more readily and often hold in riffles where fly fishers have an advantage. Good luck, Mark Vinsel

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Yes, that will work, but just remember, like with big trout, you must put the fly in front of their nose.  It might take something like a heavily weighted stonefly nymph to do the trick.  The rod wt. is OK, I have landed steelhead on my Orvis Western Spring Creek 4 wt.  If i am targeting steelhead though, I usually take a 6 or 7.  A fly I’ve had luck with on small strams that are ahallow and clear where you and the fish can see each other, is a Black Diamond (first tyed in Black Diamond, Washington).  If you’re interested and can’t find the pattern, give a yell – be glad to provide it. Burton Hawley, Corvallis, OR

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Although I’m an experienced flyfisher, I really don’t know anything about flyfishing for steelhead.  What are the best tactics and flies to use for steelhead?  What is the best equipment and setup?  I have 7wt equipment.  Is this sufficient? I’ll be trying the Big Sur River just south of Monterey Calif. on Wednesday.   I figure I’ll use dark flies and quarter the stream.  It’s not a deep river so I’m going to use a floating line and let the weight of the fly do the work of getting down to the fish. So, what do you think?  Am I on the right track? Thanks Bob Moss Landing, Ca.

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Lots of good books on the topic, especially Advanced Steelhead Flyfishing that seems to focus on your area.  Flies are typically bright streamers and wild marabou patterns, though some folks prefer to fish darker flies that actually look like something alive.  Salmon egg patterns are used alot. Typical tactic is to flip it out 45 degrees to current and drift, pulling line in to cover water completely before moving a few steps.  Floating line is common(specail steelhead line is flaoting and designed for winter usage), sometimes with longer leaders with heavy flys to sink. Monofilament shock obsorbers are common as well.  So much has been written, I couldn’t do it justice.  Like most new water, its probably good to get a guide. Tom      

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Although I’m an experienced flyfisher, I really don’t know anything about flyfishing for steelhead.  What are the best tactics and flies to use for steelhead?  What is the best equipment and setup?  I have 7wt equipment.  Is this sufficient? I’ll be trying the Big Sur River just south of Monterey Calif. on Wednesday.   I figure I’ll use dark flies and quarter the stream.  It’s not a deep river so I’m going to use a floating line and let the weight of the fly do the work of getting down to the fish. So, what do you think?  Am I on the right track? Thanks Bob Moss Landing, Ca.

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Yes you are.  I would suggest you get a copy of both Dry Line Steelhead by Bill McMillan and Greased Line Fishing for Salmon (and Steelhead) by Jock Scott.  They’re the bibles.

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Question:

I saw in another post that there is a fly fishing digest on he net.  Does anyone know how to subscribe to this or whaever it takes to find it. sounds real interesting.  please post any info on this fly fishing digest. thanks ken fritts

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I saw in another post that there is a fly fishing digest on he net.  Does anyone know how to subscribe to this or whaever it takes to find it. sounds real interesting.  please post any info on this fly fishing digest. thanks

Please let me know too – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -ken fritts

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