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[deleted] Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs.
Good call Dan !. *Much* better to buy based on more *useful* information such as: MVR (Maximum Vibration Technology) <g — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…
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writes: Good call Dan !. *Much* better to buy based on more *useful* information such as: MVR (Maximum Vibration Technology) <g
Hi Tim, The point I was trying to make was that yes, there is a lot of different technology out there (including Orvis’ Maximum Vibration Reduction), but the whole point of the tech is to make a rod that works well and feels good to the individual. It doesn’t matter what the technology is behind it if it doesn’t feel good (or make a difference) to the person buying it. Got to keep that horse in front of the cart.<g Good Fishing, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish
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I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means? Thanks, Scott Wilkinson
Hi Scott, There are four generations of graphite compositions that rod makers use today. The original or first generation called graphite #1 is ~30 million modulus The second generation called graphite #2 or IM6 is ~40 million modulus The third generation called graphite #3 is ~ 50 million modulus The fourth generation called graphite #4 is ~ 64 million modulus The later generations are usually lighter and more efficient, but I am really more concerned about how they cast. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com
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Snip, snip….Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs. Try out the rod and
see how it worksfor your needs. Just because a rod says it is IM6 does not necessarily mean it is a better rod than one made out of the older graphite, or a worse rod than a rod made out of a newer graphite formula. It allows the rod designer more design options than the old graphite and not as many options as the newestgraphite. The result depends a lot on the skill of the rod designer and how he utilises those capabilities. Hope this helps,
I didn’t raise the question, but that’s about as good an answer as anybody could ask for. Cleared things up for me, anyway. Thanks. From the minute we’re born we all start dying;some of us just take longer than others. Me? I’ve been dragging my feet, but it doesn’t seem to help much.
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I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means?
It stands for "Intermediate Modulus 600" and is a graphite specification that is used to make fly rods. It is typically known as second generation graphite and was pretty much the standard for many rod companies prior to the higher modulus graphites (third and fourth generation) currently used. Lots of good fly rods were/are made from this material although it is no longer the standard of the industry. I believe Winston still makes all of their rods out of this material and they make some very nice (and expensive) fly rods from it. Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs. Try out the rod and see how it works for your needs. Just because a rod says it is IM6 does not necessarily mean it is a better rod than one made out of the older graphite, or a worse rod than a rod made out of a newer graphite formula. It allows the rod designer more design options than the old graphite and not as many options as the newest graphite. The result depends a lot on the skill of the rod designer and how he utilises those capabilities. Hope this helps, Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish
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I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means? Thanks, Scott Wilkinson
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there was an excellent posting on all the types of graphite a couple of months back. I suggest you search Dejanews if you want the straight goods as I am sure I have muddled it up in my memory a tad; graphite as a raw material is available from a number of manufacturers. The original graphite had a modulus of 33 million or so ( 33 million what?) About 10 years ago "2nd generation" graphite appeared with a modulus of 42 million: IM6 and Sage’s graphite II were part of this crowd. 3rd generation followed (ie Graphite III), modulus of maybe 50 million etc etc. So IM6 refers to a 2nd generation graphite fibre from a particular manufacturer. It’s been used a long while, it’s proven, rod designers know it’s qualities and a lot of people like rods made from it. Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.
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This month’s cover kit comprises a miniature rose sampler kit with wooden frame. p6 Cross Stitch World: news and giveaways p8 A Place in the Country: a picture of a thatched cottage with a profusion of flowers around it designed by Sheila Hudson. (28hpi jobelan; stitch count: 110 high x 140 wide). (All charts in black and white) (See Cool and Simple below) p12 Heart Sampler: lovely pastel sampler using white cotton perle for depth and texture, designed by Christine Ann Martin ( 32hpi jobelan, some beading, wildflowers threads, 218 high x 166 wide; kit available by mail order). p19 Your Letters p20 A Royal Romance: lovely carousel horses – Guinevere and Lancelot – designed by Sue Cook (28hpi evenweave, essential because of large use of fractional stitches, use of Anchor marlitt, Kreinlitt blending filament, Mill Hill beads and charms, tassels and couching; 135high x 100 wide). p26 The Perfect Figurine: article about Royal Doulton with address for cross stitch kit tie-ins. p29 Poppy Cushion: dramatic cushion design by Sue Page (28 hpi jobelan, 129highx129 wide). p32 In the Swim: kit reviews with a fish theme: Fisherman and his Catch by Eva Rosenstand; Fly Fishing by Heritage; Orca Trio by Cross My Heart Inc; and Fishing Sampler by Anchor (Penelope). p34 Classic Collection: a selection of Thank You cards by Debra Page. p39 Out of the Blue: last of the white on blue floral designs by Lesley Brankin to complete the cushion or to use separately. (28hpi evenweave; 133 high x 109 wide – 4 of the flowers plus border; kit available). p42 The Circus, Bath: the delightful Georgian terrace, composed by Christine Sylvester of Abacus Designs (14hpi aida; 74 high x 123 wide). p47 A Chart for Baby: chart reviews with a baby theme. p48 Cool and Simple: A lovely 3-panel sampler by Sue Page (28 hpi jobelan; use of satin stitch, Algerian Eyes, Eyelets and Diamond eyelets, which are all explained; kit available, although it is not mentioned in the mail order section but a kit for the Summer Cottage, see above, is). p54 Fragrant Stitches: round trinket box lid (designer not attributed) of dog roses and rose hips (32hpi evenweave in dark green, 51 high x 49 wide) p60 Do not disturb: door name plates for kids, again not attributed, full alphabet given (14hpi aida; 24 high x 130 wide). NEXT MONTH: lovely rose and lilies firescreen project, Golden Sun Angel, striking Barn Owl and Autumn Sampler. Free floral card kit plus 3 illustrated cards and envelopes. Dianne
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How does one subscribe to this publication? thanks, Angie who can never have enought XS mags.
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How does one subscribe to this publication? thanks, Angie who can never have enought XS mags.
Hi Angie, If you buy any of the x-stitch magazines there is a card or a page which you can fill in and send back to the publisher. Yours in Stitching Sharon ****** — Sharon D Ward http://www.danesholme.demon.co.uk
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This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute? I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna. What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom? Thanks for your ideas. Kurt
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I’m primarily a smallmouth fisherman on the Potomac River. I generally use either a 6-weight or an 8-weight. The Potomac, like the Delaware and Susquehanna, is a wide, often windy river. I spend much of my time throwing l-o-n-g casts (often all the way down to my backing) with the aid of a good double haul. I also generally use big Clouser minnows. I find the 8-weight is ideal for these conditions, especially when it’s windy. Having said that, however, I also enjoy using my 6-weight, especially on calmer days when fishing dries or small nymphs. On smaller rivers like the Shenandoah, I use my 6-weight almost exclusively. Scott Wilkinson
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I’ll see all those fives and sixes and raise an eight– The susky is the least delicate smallie river I know of. I regularly fish from the Chemung to the New and I have a different view. I tie and fish flies that range from large to huge for smallmouth to muskies, and the susky is the largest zone. My best fish have come on very large poppers (a whole 1/2" banger-foam cylinder’s worth and two large worm rattles) and the Butch Minnow, which is a lead-eyed hair-bodied diving. . .thing. . .we use around here a lot. I fish big, and that seems to work well in the susquehanna. So I fish an 8 mainly, and it’s not pretty all the time, I admit it. As for lines: I like the Wulff triangle bug tapers, most weight-forward thing I can find; with my big guns (8wt PM10 and Scott STS) I will line-up a notch to the 9-wt. I don’t recommend this; it has disqualified me from membership in most flyfishing clubs and gotten me frowns in the orvis shop, but so has tying and fishing flies that cast reasonably well on a baitcaster. I do move a fair number of the higher echelon of fish in the James, New, Potomac, ‘Doah, and Susquehanna, and people also give me a wide berth on the river. In short: there’s a "big" faction out here, too. Dave
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti
Another alternative is to use the SA 6 weight headstart line on the 4/5. I do. The headstart line has such a short belly (23′) and tapers that it short casts very well without overloading the rod. Once you are well into the running line, the total weight of the line in the air is much less than a regular WF 6 F due to its short belly so you are never in danger of oveloading the rod. With 50′ of line in the air, its total weight is probably no greater than a DT 4. The short, chunky, heavy belly does a great job on big fat poppers and buggers, yet the 8 foot 4/5 won’t wear your arm out. My 4/5 Diawa is very sensitive to overloading, a DT 5 F will kill it, but the WF 6 headstart causes no problems, It feels just like a WF 5 or a DT 4. I regularly cast number 4 wooly buggers over 60′ with it. In fact it has proved to be the best line for the rod. Peter
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This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute? I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna. What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom? Thanks for your ideas. Kurt
Kurt, I use SA sink tip lines in various sink rates, and another option (less expensive) is the loop to loop Orvis Mini Lead Heads (2 to a package, 12" & 24" length) and their "super instant sink tip system", which are also loop to loop 6′ sections. These are (1) fast sink tip and (2) super fast sink tip. These will set you back about 10 bucks, and do work in getting your bugger down. Of course, in order to use this system you have to go to the loop to loop method, which I happen to like for the ease it affords in changing leaders, and putting on/taking off the aforementioned Lead Heads. Obviously, the weight of the sink tip you use is determined by several factors, current, depth you’re trying to get to, and weight of your streamer (Clouser deep minnow vs unweighted wooley bugger, for example) Using the Orvis system first might give you a better idea of what weight sink tip line you might end up buying, and at considerably less cost. Good luck on your search. Regards, Frank Church Elkhart, IN
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This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute? I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna. What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom? Thanks for your ideas.
The only sink tip I own is an old Cortland 444SL WF6F/S type IV with a 10 foot tip (man, that’s a mouthful). I really don’t like it much, as it just feels clunky. I’m sure that’s more a result of my casting (poor casting) than the line, but I’ve been thinking of getting a full sinking line or something like a Teeny. Whatever you do (or think), TEST THE LINE before you buy. Most shops should be able to put a line on a reel for you to test cast with. By all means, do so (with a leader and fly). With the premium price on lines these days, make sure you’re getting what you want before you bring it home. Bob Petti
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Anyone out there own or use an Orvis DXR with Anti-Reverse? I’d appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated. Tim, I’d have to agree with the last post recommending that 6 weight rod. That’s a good all rounder. Something like a 8′5" or 9′ rod for a bid river like the Susq. would fit the bill nicely. Your should be able to find a decent rod under $150. I have an Orvis Clearwater, and two Cortland rods, all were under $150, with reel, flyline and backing included. I fish for smallies on the Shenadoah and the Potomac Rivers. Keith in Waterford, VA
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This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute? I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna. What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom? Thanks for your ideas. Kurt
Kurt, I fish most with my floating line… My 10 ft sink tip gets very little use. Most of the time a weigthed nymph will get close enough to the bottom to get interest. Smallmouth are aggressive fish and in shallow streams ( most of my fishing is in 6 ft or less of water) they will chase the fly if they are interested). A split shot or two can be added if necessary . If you wade fish like I do, and cover several miles in a trip you learn to bring the laast but most versatile equipment. The floating line also gives you the equipment to fish popper, etc. Bottom line… I can get my fly near the bottom with my floating line but I can’t really fish near the top with my sink-tip.. And I don’t want to weight myself with excess equipment… that crap gets heavy after a while. hope that helps ! Jody
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As for lines: I like the Wulff triangle bug tapers, most weight-forward thing I can find; with my big guns (8wt PM10 and Scott STS) I will line-up a notch to the 9-wt. I don’t recommend this; it has disqualified me from membership in most flyfishing clubs and gotten me frowns in the orvis shop, but so has tying and fishing flies that cast reasonably well on a baitcaster. I do move a fair number of the higher echelon of fish in the James, New, Potomac, ‘Doah, and Susquehanna, and people also give me a wide berth on the river. In short: there’s a "big" faction out here, too.
Alright, Dave! I second your posting. I’m a firm believer in casting flies the size of mice 70+ feet with big rods! What I find amusing is how, in flyfishing circles, there is a perception that the "saltwater guys" who go after bonefish and the like are the only ones who throw long casts with big rods in windy conditions. I might remind some saltwater types that when the wind comes roaring down a wide river valley like the Potomac or Susquehana, conditions can be every bit as harsh as rough day on the ocean! Scott Wilkinson Bethesda, MD
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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.
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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.
Tim, while I have fished *almost* exclusively for smallies for some years now, I am by no means an expert on what rod to use, but FWIW, I have used as my #1 smallie rod a 6 wt Sage and starting last year, a 6 wt 4 piece St Croix travel rod. I changed to the St Croix because the Sage is a little faster action than I’m comfortable with. There are those who will tell you to use a 7 wt….that’s fine too, because you will, every now and then, hook into a 5 pounder that’ll give you and your rod a workout. While I have never fished the Susky, I know it to be a fine smallmouth fishery. As to what to expect to spend, it depends on what brand…the the big name rods (Sage, Winston, Scott, etc.) will set you back 400+ bucks. Until you get some experience at this, I would suggest starting lower on the scale with either a St Croix or Redington. These are both in the 100 dollar area, and are fine rods, with a lifetime replacement guarantee. There are, of course, even cheaper rods, Wal-Mart/K-Mart specials, package deals aimed at getting you started, with everything included, reel, line, etc. These are definitely on the low end of the scale, quality-wise, and I question whether this is the best way to go. Spend a little more, get a good quality line, which to me is more important than the reel you use. If you need more info on the St Croix, contact me offline. Good luck. Regards,
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Tim Engle writes: I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.
I’d suggest a 9′ 7wt. I wouldn’t think you’d need to spend much over a hundred bucks. The St. Croix Imperial or St. Croix Legend series would be just fine. Bob Petti
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Tim Engle writes: I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated. I’d suggest a 9′ 7wt. I wouldn’t think you’d need to spend much over a hundred bucks. The St. Croix Imperial or St. Croix Legend series would be just fine.
I’ll second the St.Croix reccommendation. They’re very good rods at a reasonable price. However… A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. If you are planning on using 1/0 heavy Clouser Minnows or big Dahlberg rabbit strip divers, a 7wt MIGHT be becessary… but for all my stream fishing in the southern Ohio/northern Kentucky area a _4wt_ is plenty of rod. I only use my 8wt for largemouth/northern/muskie, when I’m throwing the BIG flies. I still use heavy enough leader that I can land and release a fish quickly, but it’s not necessary to use a telephone pole rod either! <GRIN — Joe Ellis o/~ The Synthetic Filker o/~ | TesserAct Studios ()XDarwin(; Now on the Web at | Cincinnati, OH 45240 / /~LL~~LL~ http://shell.idt.net/~ellis69 |New Dimensions In Filk! Unsolicited commercial E-mail will be proofread at $25 hr/2 hr min.
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Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after.
Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti
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Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth??
I use a 9′ 6/7 graphite/boron rod. When I’m out on a trout stream, I use a DT6-F. For bass and panfish I use a WF7-F or a WF-6 with a sinking tip. These combinations work quite well. I’m accustomed to tossing weighted Woolly Buggers, weighted streamers, and hair bugs in sizes 4 to 10. Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC 28311 Office: 910-630-7037
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti
Bob, when I first started flyrodding, it was the largemouth I was homing in on, and after checking out those neat hairbugs with all the feathers, rubber legs, etc. I thought that was what was required to get ‘em to hit on the surface. Some years of flailing those bulky bugs with an 8 wt produced bass, but at the end of the day, my arm/wrist was tired from throwing those danged puffballs. Have since learned from others(in this to get a hit. So I’ve stepped down to a 6 wt and now throw basically "clean" bugs, no tail feathers, and a cleaner, smaller profile. As a matter of fact, the Sneaky Pete is nothing more than a bullet shaped head with rubber legs and a tad of hackle, and it has been one of my most successful lures at getting smallmouth to hit. (with a vengence, I might add!) I still have the bulky hairbugs, but they reside in the tackle bag and almost never get used now. Regards,
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Frank Church writes: So I’ve stepped down to a 6 wt and now throw basically "clean" bugs, no tail feathers, and a cleaner, smaller profile.
Good point, Frank. My problem with lighter rods is casting heavy flies like big buggers and clousers. I find it much easier to control the cast with a heavier line. Most of my smallmouth fishing is done with weighted streamers and "bottom bouncers", so I guess that dictates my choice of tackle. However, I’ve been known to visit a few small creeks with my little 8 footer and cast tiny clousers and unweighted marabou streamers and bucktails for the "dinks". That can make for an enjoyable evening. Lord knows there are many many more 6 inch bass in the streams that 16 inchers. Targetting the small guys and selecting appropriate tackle and flies can be great fun. Bob Petti
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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania. What size and weight rod should I be looking at? Any suggestions? Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.
Tim, I have been haunting the Delaware ( probably the best wadeable smallie stream in the US) for 3 decades armed with a flyrod ….. perhaps 1000 trips now if I had to count with 95 % of them wet wading.. I have three rods for this type of fishing…. an old fenwick graphite wt 5 ( for caddis fly hatches) and a wt 6 for pencil poppers and a wt 7 for heavier stuff like weighted crayfish imitations, wooly buggers, etc. I also use my wt 7 for the big river stripers encountered in the late spring , especially towards evening . This way I can fish for both species with one rod. I lived many years with a Fenwick HMG graphite (Wt 5 and wt 7) with the 9 ft wt 7 my standard outfit and have been and still am very happy with those rods ( my son still uses them) Granted they are old technology and slower than the very fast modern rods but since I learned to flycast with fiberglass their slower action suit me. I think they cost about $ 150 bucks now.. I currently fish at a very fast scott but this is my shad rod ( something you may also want to consider) – a scott sts 9 ft wt 6 as well as a Sage rpl+ 9.5 ft wt 7. I absolutely love my Sage because it feesl like an extremely improved fenwick (action wise, which it had replaced) except it can effortlessly cast 70 feet when necessary. If you had ~ $ 400 I would recommend the wt 6 or wt 7 sage RPL+ 9-9.5 ft long. I am currently entertaining the idea of a Sage RPL+ 9 ft wt 4 or lighter for really light smallie fishing… Jody
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Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter. We are just recovering from a major flood. What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer?
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Yo Dan, The effect of the flood will be the determining factor on the bug population, not the warm water conditons. Certainly if the flood was sustained and had heavy enough flows to scour the stream bed then you can expect some damage to the invertibrate population. The warmer than seasonal winter flows can accelerate the hatches, that is make them come early. Normally by mid season the hatches will get back on track unless you have a hot spring. Yippi tie one on! AuSable1
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Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter. We are just recovering from a major flood. What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer?
Good question. Most nymphs or larva grow very little during the winter months but the unseasonably warm water may change this. Could see many of your normal hatches happening earlier than usual. Then again the flooding may well have destroyed a lot of the habitat (rooted vegetation especially) with its scouring effects and you may have greatly reduced hatches and insect activity. Then again placing all the organic materials in the rivers may actually improve habitat over the long run. This is a little like chaos theories, there are so many variables it’s real hard to predict. Probably just have to wait and see what happens. Any one else care to guess? Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again. So what if they eat other fish? If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter. We are just recovering from a major flood. What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer? Good question. Most nymphs or larva grow very little during the winter months but the unseasonably warm water may change this. Could see many of your normal hatches happening earlier than usual. Then again the flooding may well have destroyed a lot of the habitat (rooted vegetation especially) with its scouring effects and you may have greatly reduced hatches and insect activity. Then again placing all the organic materials in the rivers may actually improve habitat over the long run. This is a little like chaos theories, there are so many variables it’s real hard to predict. Probably just have to wait and see what happens. Any one else care to guess? Dan My guess: It may make the hatches come off early. Therefore,
you should get onstream earlier in the year. It also may make the hatches sparse. Therefore, you should spend as much time as possible onstream. It may make the hatches come off late, since we are just guessing here, so you should fish later into the year than you normally do. It may stunt the hatches. There- fore you should tie smaller flies this year. It may cause phenomenal growth, since the flood reduced the population relative to the habitat. So, you should tie larger flies. It could reduce populations, causing underfed fish to virtually leap on any fly presented to them. Therefore, you should not bother to take a variety of flies onstream. It could displace the fish so they are unavailable to jump on your fly. Therefore, stay home. It could go just about any way. I plan to review the year at the end and construct a difinitive answer to this question when I have some factual^b^b^b^b^b^b^b anecdotal data to draw on. Charley
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Sometimes I can not help thinking that a "wise man" would keep his silence more often.