Question:

Our family just exchanged a few gifts early. My daughter helps run a local zoo (great source for peacock feathers) and has to go in early Christmas morning to make sure all the animals are okay, so we won’t have our usual early AM gift swap. My youngest son gave me an organizer for my tying stuff that is *awesome* and wasn’t even on my list. It’s about 1/4 the size of Frank Reid’s box, so it is HUGE. Now I just have to go out and buy some more stuff to fill it. Looks like I’ll have to wrangle some more $$ by the time the fly fishing show comes to town. Back to bonding with the family and drinking a little toast to them – single malt, of course. I’ll tip my glass to you all as well. I’ve said it before, and at the risk of going maudlin I’ll say it again: I’ve gotten a great amount of information from this group over the past few years that has vastly improved my on-stream enjoyment and performance, and I appreciate every bit of it. I’ve also met some people I’d never have met without ROFF, and would have been a poorer man for not meeting them. — TL, Tim

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. I’ll tip my glass to you all as well. I’ve said it before, and at the risk of going maudlin I’ll say it again: I’ve gotten a great amount of information from this group over the past few years that has vastly improved my on-stream enjoyment and performance, and I appreciate every bit of it. I’ve also met some people I’d never have met without ROFF, and would have been a poorer man for not meeting them. — TL, Tim

    well, maudlin is a word for people who can’t feel what you have just expressed.  of course, that is just an opinion from yfitons wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, I realize this may be a tall order, but I’m looking for any helpful info on fishing (mostly stream) the upper peninsula of Michigan. Will be staying just outside Kenton the first week of September, and I’m thinking my already sub-par knowledge of Arkansas tailwater ff will only carry me so far in this strange new land. Since the UP seems to be teeming with fishable water, I was mostly hoping someone could help me narrow things down a bit. A Google search of the group revealed multiple references to the area, but little in the way of straightforward advice. If it helps, I’ll be limited to wading with a 5wt. outfit, and probably won’t get much further than 1-1.5 hours from Kenton during the trip. I will have access by boat to one particular small lake. Other than that, I’m pretty much at a loss for where to go/what to use. (I don’t even know the name of the lake.) Heaps o’ thanks in advance. As you can probably guess, I’m excited as all get out. JD

Kenton sits right on the east branch of the Ontonagon river.  Lots of good trout water.  Sparrow rapids, about two miles downstream from town is a popular spot to put in and fish.  There’s also a campground there. Get a good map (the DeLorme atlases are about as good as you can get and are available in most sporting goods stores and bookstores) and explore.  The Paint, the Net, Cook’s Run, Trout Creek, the Jumbo, the Sturgeon, and the other branches of the Ontonagon are all within an easy drive, as are many other small streams. Wolfgang

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Justin, I am sure your "sub-par" knowledge of AR tailwaters is considerably more than my "extremely limited" knowledge of that area. I plan to visit the North Fork in a month or so and then again in the fall or winter. Any info you can share would be greatly appreciated. I too am limited to wading and light to medium weight flyfishing equipment. Thanks in advance, guy

already sub-par knowledge of Arkansas tailwater ff will only carry me so

far

Response:

Kenton sits right on the east branch of the Ontonagon river.  Lots of good trout water.  Sparrow rapids, about two miles downstream from town is a popular spot to put in and fish.  There’s also a campground there. Get a good map (the DeLorme atlases are about as good as you can get and are available in most sporting goods stores and bookstores) and explore.  The Paint, the Net, Cook’s Run, Trout Creek, the Jumbo, the Sturgeon, and the other branches of the Ontonagon are all within an easy drive, as are many other small streams. Wolfgang

I fwd’d your reply to my trip buddy this morning and received a 4-word response: "Wolfgang is our friend." Thanks so much for the help. Along with the DeLorme and a copy of Michigan Trout Streams, a printout of your advice should provide ample direction throughout the week. Thanks again… JD officially foaming at the mouth

Response:

Justin, I am sure your "sub-par" knowledge of AR tailwaters is considerably more than my "extremely limited" knowledge of that area. I plan to visit the North Fork in a month or so and then again in the fall or winter. Any info you can share would be greatly appreciated. I too am limited to wading and light to medium weight flyfishing equipment. Thanks in advance, guy

Dang. I knew I shoulda left that part out. Aside from an ample supply of light tippet, woolly buggers and sow bugs, the best piece of equipment you can take is a cell phone with the Bull Shoals/Norfork powerhouse number, 870.431.5311. The North Fork is right under Norfork Dam, so any amount of generation means you’re outta luck. I spent four days there this spring. Reading. If you’re that close, you should consider the short trip (4 miles and onward) to the White as well (under Bull Shoals dam). Much better help than mine, along with decent maps, access points and reports can be found here: http://www.ozarkangler.com/river/ There are numerous other places on the web to find info. Just stay attuned to water levels at all times. When it starts to rise, get out. Immediately. On the upside, North Fork goes down quickly when generation stops, and is a only few miles long, so you can hear the powerhouse siren nearly all the way down to the White. Oh, and the fishing rocks. You can also track generation (it can give you some idea about current schedules, but don’t set your watch by it) here: http://www.swpa.gov/generation.htm Finally, talk to the locals. They’re good people. They’re usually taking up all the really good spots, but they’re good people… JD

Response:

Thanks Justin! Greatly appereciate the information. I will follow up on your sources as well as keep an eye on the generation schedules. I was there this spring and did a fair share of reading myself. I asked one of the locals "how high was the water compared to a regular fishable flow?" He said "The dam would have to break for the water to go any higher". I smiled and kept on reading. guy

My pleasure, man. Best of luck. JD

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…Thanks…

You’re welcome. Wolfgang

Response:

Thanks Justin! Greatly appereciate the information. I will follow up on your sources as well as keep an eye on the generation schedules. I was there this spring and did a fair share of reading myself. I asked one of the locals "how high was the water compared to a regular fishable flow?" He said "The dam would have to break for the water to go any higher". I smiled and kept on reading. guy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Justin, I am sure your "sub-par" knowledge of AR tailwaters is considerably more than my "extremely limited" knowledge of that area. I plan to visit the North Fork in a month or so and then again in the fall or winter. Any info you can share would be greatly appreciated. I too am limited to wading and light to medium weight flyfishing equipment. Thanks in advance, guy Dang. I knew I shoulda left that part out. Aside from an ample supply of light tippet, woolly buggers and sow bugs, the best piece of equipment you can take is a cell phone with the Bull Shoals/Norfork powerhouse number, 870.431.5311. The North Fork is right under Norfork Dam, so any amount of generation means you’re outta luck. I spent four days there this spring. Reading. If you’re that close, you should consider the short trip (4 miles and onward) to the White as well (under Bull Shoals dam). Much better help than mine, along with decent maps, access points and reports can be found here: http://www.ozarkangler.com/river/ There are numerous other places on the web to find info. Just stay attuned to water levels at all times. When it starts to rise, get out. Immediately. On the upside, North Fork goes down quickly when generation stops, and is a only few miles long, so you can hear the powerhouse siren nearly all the way down to the White. Oh, and the fishing rocks. You can also track generation (it can give you some idea about current schedules, but don’t set your watch by it) here: http://www.swpa.gov/generation.htm Finally, talk to the locals. They’re good people. They’re usually taking up all the really good spots, but they’re good people… JD

Response:

Okay, I realize this may be a tall order, but I’m looking for any helpful info on fishing (mostly stream) the upper peninsula of Michigan. Will be staying just outside Kenton the first week of September, and I’m thinking my already sub-par knowledge of Arkansas tailwater ff will only carry me so far in this strange new land. Since the UP seems to be teeming with fishable water, I was mostly hoping someone could help me narrow things down a bit. A Google search of the group revealed multiple references to the area, but little in the way of straightforward advice. If it helps, I’ll be limited to wading with a 5wt. outfit, and probably won’t get much further than 1-1.5 hours from Kenton during the trip. I will have access by boat to one particular small lake. Other than that, I’m pretty much at a loss for where to go/what to use. (I don’t even know the name of the lake.) Heaps o’ thanks in advance. As you can probably guess, I’m excited as all get out. JD

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Question:

I went to the library a couple of hours ago and checked out a book about the sense of smell, simply because it caught my eye.  While reading it at dinner a while ago I was reminded of the second thing I noticed on arriving at Jay’s cabin in the UP; the delicious and unique aroma of the north woods.  Every place has its own smell (libraries are another favorite, or rather, class of favorites…they’re all different) and this one, in the spring, combines rich undertones of damp earth, crisp aromatic conifers dominated by balsam fir, pungent aspens, and a host of lesser elements.  Every time it hits me I am immediately transported back to innumerable other visits for fishing, hunting, wood cutting, and sitting on the porch, which brings me to the first thing I noticed and which cut short my reverie, for there on the porch was the supine form of one medium sized Asadi.  It was either dead or asleep.  A few light kicks at the chair confirmed that it was the latter. After a few moments of hale fellow well mets I bundled the poor boy, much bedraggled from a long journey a hot sauna and wrasslin with some barley pop, off to see Agate Falls.  Agate is one of the more spectacular falls in the UP, which is littered with the things, and would later prove to be the last place we fished on this trip. When we got back to the neighborhood of the shack we stopped to visit Jay’s brother Bret, who lives in a trailer just a couple hundred yards down the road.  Bret is a journeyman electrician, which would allow him to live virtually anywhere he pleases.  He is also a VERY avid hunter and fisher.  That he chooses to live in such a place is indicative of what it has to offer to the outdoor enthusiast.  As we chatted (Asadi tried to buy Bret’s hat from his five year old daughter but she was too cagey for him), Jay drove up.  A few minutes later we all arrived at the shack to find Mr. Petah Charles there.  The evening was devoted to making plans for departure the next morning, sorting through gear, eating, and pouring offerings to the fish gods and the great god Ethanol.  Asadi, having gotten a considerable head start on the rest of us, easily won the evenings round of libations.  We were all pleased to discover that Peter speaks pretty good English for a ferriner.   We arose tolerably early the next morning and after a few brief stops for breakfast, extra packing food, conferences, mapping, waterfall viewing, fly shop hunting (without noticeable success, I might add), and other piddling chores, we managed to hit the trail precisely at the crack of noon….or thereabouts.  Jay decided to take a rather more challenging route than the rest of us so it was up to me to deliver the requisite lecture to the newbies…….stop whenever you feel a need, drink plenty of water, ANY discomfort on feet is to be taken very seriously and attended to immediately, yada, yada, yada.  I set a moderate pace for the first half mile so as not to tax the rookies. After a ten minute break during which Peter never bothered to remove his pack, I let him take the lead, and I spent the next hour and a half sprinting to keep him in sight while John, carrying some very heavy and very non traditional backpacking food and a head that looked suspiciously larger than it used to, was left to bring up the rear.  We arrived at the mouth of the Big Carp, after a trip of 4 1/4 miles, an hour and fifty minutes after hitting the trail, and this with a couple of rest stops totaling about fifteen minutes.  Goddamn Cannuck voyageurs!   More later……gotta rest. Wolfgang

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[ominous preclavian rumblings noted and snipped] More later……gotta rest. Wolfgang

John, Peter, and Wolfgang "alone together" in the woodz? Whoa… /daytripper (Jealous – or grateful? Tough call…

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Question:

Hi All, I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now? I need it for fishing because I always seem to fall in? The ‘weather resistant’ cameras did not work for me. Thanks. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA http://www.kiene.com

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Hi All, I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now? I need it for fishing because I always seem to fall in? The ‘weather resistant’ cameras did not work for me. Thanks.

The Nikon Nikonos… assuming you’ve got the bucks.  It however is really designed for underwater photography and its lenses and accesories are desgined for that environment.. no long lenses etc. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA http://www.kiene.com

Response:

Hi All, I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now? I need it for fishing because I always seem to fall in? The ‘weather resistant’ cameras did not work for me. Thanks.

Hi, Bill.  If you’re not planning on taking tons of underwater photos, stay away from the Nikonos line, as well as all other SLR’s.  Beautiful cameras, but a bit overkill for what it sounds like what you’re looking for.  If you do need an SLR, get one of those transparent housings that are held in place by screwing them onto the front of the lens… they look like transparent plastic bags.  Otherwise, go with a p&s.  You might look at Minolta’s zoom p&s that goes to 33 feet, Canon’s A-1 (non-zoom) to 16 feet, or even Pentax’s Espio 105WR (38-105mm).  This last one is Class 5 weather resistant, can have water dumped on it, and floats if dropped into water.  Just some thoughts. chris

Response:

I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now?

Here is a comparison chart of all water-resistant cameras currently on the market, along with some non-water-resistant competitors:   http://creekin.net/cameras.htm Prices and weights included.

Response:

Hi, Bill.  If you’re not planning on taking tons of underwater photos, stay away from the Nikonos line, as well as all other SLR’s.  Beautiful cameras, but a bit overkill for what it sounds like what you’re looking for.  If you do need an SLR, SNIP<

Just to avoid confusion, the Nikonoses which have been recommended (I’ve seen a recommendation for the III, a couple for the IV-A, and mine for a used V or IV-A) are not SLRs. They are viewfinder cameras that take interchangebable lenses (similar to rangefinder, but they don’t use a rangefinder for focusing). I’ve used Nikonos viewfinder cameras for maybe 10 years, and I get most of my use on dry land. My underwater use is snorkeling, and they would probably qualify as overkill even for that use, but they are, in my estimation, excellent cameras overall, even on land. And they are built like tanks. If the camera Bill chooses is going to get rough treatment on his trips, I would not shy away from a Nikonos as overkill. — Phil Stripling               | email to the replyto address is presumed http://www.cieux.com/        | civex.com is read daily.

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You might look into getting a Nikonos IVa with a 35mm lens. It’s made by Nikon and, with good seals, is waterproof, sandproof, and (unless you open the back to change film) sturdy. = = = – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now? I need it for fishing because I always seem to fall in? The ‘weather resistant’ cameras did not work for me. Thanks. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA http://www.kiene.com

Before you buy.

Response:

Check out also the Sea & Sea Motomartine or Motormarine, which offers compatability with the Nikonos line at much less cost. Be aware that many of the lenses can be used ONLY underwater, so check that out carefully. In the P&S line Canon (I believe) makes one that is waterproof to a couple of meters. Much better than the weatherized kind for you I think. This is probably your best choice, as it is designed to work above water as well. Nikon made an underwater P&S about 10 years ago which was a great camera for the kind of situation you describe, but which has, sadly, been discontinued. Good luck, — Toby

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, I ways wondering what water proof cameras are out there now? I need it for fishing because I always seem to fall in? The ‘weather resistant’ cameras did not work for me. Thanks. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA http://www.kiene.com

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Bill, The only true waterproof camera is the Nikonos by Nikon. They work above water as well as underwater.  They are, of course, expensive.  I have a Nikonos III w/28mm lens, strobe, etc. in floating equipment case that I need to sell.  This system has been used only three times.  If you know any divers, they probably know this camera well. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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Question:

Woolly Buggers. Weighted, fished slow and deep… /daytripper – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

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I like to use a bead head green cadis larvae in PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

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What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

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There are many different patterns that are used for Browns in the Northeast.  One that I really like is the Glo-bug.  There are many Creeks that have spawnig fish such as Steelhead during the winter months.  A Glo-bug is always a good bet for winter fishing. Good Luck, Forrest Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com Before you buy.

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Question:

Hi Tim.  if it hurts you are doing it wrong. Take a lesson. You should be able to cast at least sixty feet with relative ease using the correct technique. If you can not do so, take a lesson from a pro. It is rarely necessary to cast sixty feet as it happens, but if it gives you peace of mind to be capable of doing so, then as I said, take a lesson. You will not regret it.

I can cast 60 feet, but when I’m on a float tube in a pond the fish always seem to be rising 65 feet away. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Hi Tim, You might want to try it with a good weight forward floating line. I would try to get some help. Are there any casting classes availaby near you?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was watching a video on fly fishing the other day and the guy in the video seemed to be able to cast fairly long distances with hardly any effort at all. I am getting better at casting but I seem to need to put a little more force into my cast than what I have seen in most video’s.  I was wondering what weight rod and line are these guys normally using in these video’s?  I have a Cabela’s Sweetwater 6/7 weight rod and use 6 weight WF floating line on it.  I need to really put some power into my casts to get it to reach out even say 20 – 25 ft. I’m trying to keep my wrist firm and elbow tight to my body and using abrupt stops at 11:00 and 1:00 then follow through when letting the fly go to the target so I think I’m doing it right.  Fairly tight loops and all, but something just doesn’t seem right when I see the ease with which some of these guys can cast. Would it make sense for me to try a 7 weight line? BTW it’s not that I really mind the the way I’m casting but I have a pinched nerve in my neck and shoulder (from too many years of competitve volleyball) and after a few hours of casting I start to get a little sore. thanks, Tim Sheehan

Response:

Hi Tim, You might want to try it with a good weight forward floating line. I would try to get some help. Are there any casting classes availaby near you?

Bill, I am using Cortland WF6 Floating line (can’t remember the number…either 333 or 444) isn’t this a decent quality line? I am looking into getting some lessons (I’ve been workin’ on a veteran ROFFer for some casting tips, but havn’t been able to hook up yet…hint, hint, Mark Tim

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Your time is coming Tim Mark Faulkner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Tim, You might want to try it with a good weight forward floating line. I would try to get some help. Are there any casting classes availaby near you? Bill, I am using Cortland WF6 Floating line (can’t remember the number…either 333 or 444) isn’t this a decent quality line? I am looking into getting some lessons (I’ve been workin’ on a veteran ROFFer for some casting tips, but havn’t been able to hook up yet…hint, hint, Mark Tim

Response:

Thanks for the reply Tony! I actually did go to the doctor last week because the numbness was getting much worse in my right arm and fingers.  The doc sent me for a spine xray (I’m still waiting for the results) and prescribed some muscle relaxers and NSAIDs.

Get an MRI. X-ray doesn’t show damage to soft tissue. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Hi Tim,     Definitely try the 7wt. If you’re the same guy from Altoona, give me a mail, and maybe we can get together. I live in State College and am a former Orvis instructor. I love to teach casting. Bruce

Good to have another State College roffian around. Mark Faulkner

Response:

Don’t worry so much about distance.  Unless you are fishing the ocean, distance is highly overrated.  Relax, master your cast at shorter distances and eventually, with practice, it’ll all come together. thanks for the tip Ken, and thanks to all that responded to this post with helful advice!! I even got an offer of a free booklet and some casting lessons from another…ROFF is truly amazing!!! Tim

fish. Some of us can even do both. — Mr. G.   http://www.gink.com/html  Fly Fisherman’s Chat Site

Response:

Take a class. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was watching a video on fly fishing the other day and the guy in the video seemed to be able to cast fairly long distances with hardly any effort at all. I am getting better at casting but I seem to need to put a little more force into my cast than what I have seen in most video’s.  I was wondering what weight rod and line are these guys normally using in these video’s? I have a Cabela’s Sweetwater 6/7 weight rod and use 6 weight WF floating line on it.  I need to really put some power into my casts to get it to reach out even say 20 – 25 ft. I’m trying to keep my wrist firm and elbow tight to my body and using abrupt stops at 11:00 and 1:00 then follow through when letting the fly go to the target so I think I’m doing it right.  Fairly tight loops and all, but something just doesn’t seem right when I see the ease with which some of these guys can cast. Would it make sense for me to try a 7 weight line? BTW it’s not that I really mind the the way I’m casting but I have a pinched nerve in my neck and shoulder (from too many years of competitve volleyball) and after a few hours of casting I start to get a little sore. thanks, Tim Sheehan

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was watching a video on fly fishing the other day and the guy in the video seemed to be able to cast fairly long distances with hardly any effort at all. I am getting better at casting but I seem to need to put a little more force into my cast than what I have seen in most video’s.  I was wondering what weight rod and line are these guys normally using in these video’s?  I have a Cabela’s Sweetwater 6/7 weight rod and use 6 weight WF floating line on it.  I need to really put some power into my casts to get it to reach out even say 20 – 25 ft. I’m trying to keep my wrist firm and elbow tight to my body and using abrupt stops at 11:00 and 1:00 then follow through when letting the fly go to the target so I think I’m doing it right.  Fairly tight loops and all, but something just doesn’t seem right when I see the ease with which some of these guys can cast. Would it make sense for me to try a 7 weight line?

Don’t worry so much about distance.  Unless you are fishing the ocean, distance is highly overrated.  Relax, master your cast at shorter distances and eventually, with practice, it’ll all come together. Just MNSHO,      - Ken — "Many go fishing all their lives without knowing that it is not fish  they are after."     – Henry David Thoreau

Response:

Don’t worry so much about distance.  Unless you are fishing the ocean, distance is highly overrated.  Relax, master your cast at shorter distances and eventually, with practice, it’ll all come together.

thanks for the tip Ken, and thanks to all that responded to this post with helful advice!! I even got an offer of a free booklet and some casting lessons from another…ROFF is truly amazing!!! Tim

Response:

Well said, Mr. G. This reminds me of a trip to Hat Creek, when I lived in California. I get to the stream, I am walking around, far from the banks, trying to spot feeding fish. And all of the sudden: there they are, a pod of about 20 fish, all lined up along the bank, the same bank I am standing on. So i kneal, tie a fly, and cast (about 20 feet), pling, slurp, fish on, a 17 " rainbow ! I release the fish, and I move on, with the intention of coming back later, hoping that the fish come back.  I return 45 minutes later, and, as I approach the spot, I see a raiseform along the bank, in the same spot.  They are back ! However, this guy arrives at the same time, steps into the water (right through the pod !) goes to the middle of the stream and starts casting long, beautiful casts. If you have ever fished Hat Creek, you would know that long beautiful casts in the middle of the river, in the middle of the summer, are essentially worthless: the weeds create capricious little surface currents that always cause your fly to drag after two-three feet (when doing things properly: reach casts, s casts, parachute casts, whatever is required to put as much slack in the line as one can.) Lakes, some very large rivers (e.g.: yellowstone, below the lake), saltwater, might require long casts (yesterday I was out on a local reservoir, smallmouth fishing, and I have to say that double hauls did really help there, to get past those long weed banks ….), on most streams trout can be found much closer than you think …. (Atlantic salmon,sea trout, steelhead are a different matter…) -Vittorio – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don’t worry so much about distance.  Unless you are fishing the ocean, distance is highly overrated.  Relax, master your cast at shorter distances and eventually, with practice, it’ll all come together. thanks for the tip Ken, and thanks to all that responded to this post with helful advice!! I even got an offer of a free booklet and some casting lessons from another…ROFF is truly amazing!!! Tim fish. Some of us can even do both. — Mr. G. http://www.gink.com/html  Fly Fisherman’s Chat Site

Response:

Mr. G. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This reminds me of a trip to Hat Creek, when I lived in California. I get to the stream, I am walking around, far from the banks, trying to spot feeding fish. And all of the sudden: there they are, a pod of about 20 fish, all lined up along the bank, the same bank I am standing on. So i kneal, tie a fly, and cast (about 20 feet), pling, slurp, fish on, a 17 " rainbow ! I release the fish, and I move on, with the intention of coming back later, hoping that the fish come back.  I return 45 minutes later, and, as I approach the spot, I see a raiseform along the bank, in the same spot.  They are back ! However, this guy arrives at the same time, steps into the water (right through the pod !) goes to the middle of the stream and starts casting long, beautiful casts. If you have ever fished Hat Creek, you would know that long beautiful casts in the middle of the river, in the middle of the summer, are essentially worthless: the weeds create capricious little surface currents that always cause your fly to drag after two-three feet (when doing things properly: reach casts, s casts, parachute casts, whatever is required to put as much slack in the line as one can.) Lakes, some very large rivers (e.g.: yellowstone, below the lake), saltwater, might require long casts (yesterday I was out on a local reservoir, smallmouth fishing, and I have to say that double hauls did really help there, to get past those long weed banks ….), on most streams trout can be found much closer than you think …. (Atlantic salmon,sea trout, steelhead are a different matter…) -Vittorio fish. Some of us can even do both. — Mr. G. http://www.gink.com/html  Fly Fisherman’s Chat Site

Response:

Get that pinched nerve fixed! A while back, I had a pinched nerve in my neck that gave me pain along my left forearm and numbness/pins-n-needles in my thumb and forefinger. An old girlfriend, who is a physio, suggested some self therapy which cleared things up after a few weeks.

Surgery may be required. I had a pinched nerve in my neck caused by a herniated disc. It was agonizing and was causing my right arm to atrophy. My first surgery was what is called a "lamectomy." The surgeon told me it would work for awhile but the problem would probably recur. He recommended fusing a couple of discs, but that sounded too extreme for me. I should have listened to him, because a few years later the pinched nerve came back worse than ever. I had the discs fused several years ago and now my neck and arm are 100%, and I don’t even notice any lack of mobility in my neck. The worst part was the recuperation, which entailed about three months of lying around the house wearing a neck brace. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Get that pinched nerve fixed! A while back, I had a pinched nerve in my neck that gave me pain along my left forearm and numbness/pins-n-needles in my thumb and forefinger. An old girlfriend, who is a physio, suggested some self therapy which cleared things up after a few weeks.

Thanks for the reply Tony! I actually did go to the doctor last week because the numbness was getting much worse in my right arm and fingers.  The doc sent me for a spine xray (I’m still waiting for the results) and prescribed some muscle relaxers and NSAIDs. I did get one session with the Physical therapist last week and I have already noticed some improvement. (Of-course it could be the placebo effect:) Thanks for the tips on casting too!! Tim

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BTW it’s not that I really mind the the way I’m casting but I have a pinched nerve in my neck and shoulder (from too many years of competitve volleyball) and after a few hours of casting I start to get a little sore. thanks, Tim Sheehan

Get that pinched nerve fixed! A while back, I had a pinched nerve in my neck that gave me pain along my left forearm and numbness/pins-n-needles in my thumb and forefinger. An old girlfriend, who is a physio, suggested some self therapy which cleared things up after a few weeks. Within limits, the heavier the fly line, the further it will go. If you double the diameter of a fly line, you quadruple the unit mass (for a given line density). This quadruples the momentum, while only doubling the air resistance (drag), for a given velocity. BTW, doubling the line velocity might double the momentum, but it also quadruples the drag. Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

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I was watching a video on fly fishing the other day and the guy in the video seemed to be able to cast fairly long distances with hardly any effort at all. I am getting better at casting but I seem to need to put a little more force into my cast than what I have seen in most video’s.  I was wondering what weight rod and line are these guys normally using in these video’s?  I have a Cabela’s Sweetwater 6/7 weight rod and use 6 weight WF floating line on it.  I need to really put some power into my casts to get it to reach out even say 20 – 25 ft. I’m trying to keep my wrist firm and elbow tight to my body and using abrupt stops at 11:00 and 1:00 then follow through when letting the fly go to the target so I think I’m doing it right.  Fairly tight loops and all, but something just doesn’t seem right when I see the ease with which some of these guys can cast. Would it make sense for me to try a 7 weight line? BTW it’s not that I really mind the the way I’m casting but I have a pinched nerve in my neck and shoulder (from too many years of competitve volleyball) and after a few hours of casting I start to get a little sore. thanks, Tim Sheehan

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Hi Tim.  if it hurts you are doing it wrong. Take a lesson. You should be able to cast at least sixty feet with relative ease using the correct technique. If you can not do so, take a lesson from a pro. It is rarely necessary to cast sixty feet as it happens, but if it gives you peace of mind to be capable of doing so, then as I said, take a lesson. You will not regret it. TL MC

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Tim… Your comment about keeping your "wrist firm" may be a hint to your problem. As Doug Swisher has said many times in his fly fishing videos, it’s important for a fly caster to develop a "micro second" wrist. This means that your wrist plays a critical part in your casting stroke. The "11 and 1" casting arc should be managed by tipping your wrist correctly, not your arm. This could also explain you getting tired and sore. You might not be letting the rod do the work. Just my 2

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Yep, I know, probably two words you don’t expect to see in the same sentence, but check this out: Last week, Walt Winter ended a piece of correspondence by wishing me tight lines and screaming reels.  I left the next day for three days on the Miramichi to fish for Atlantic Salmon.  Hooked and landed 4 the first day, biggest one was 15 lbs.  Next day, hooked 4 and landed 1. River was up and dirty from snowmelt the next day, so I didn’t fish.   That pretty much beats any whole salmon SEASON I’ve ever enjoyed, never mind a single weekend.  Talk about your tight lines and screaming reels: just about toasted my old Beaudex. I attribute this success 100% to Walt, so if you ever get email from him that ends with ‘tight lines and screaming reels’, drop everything and get the hell to the river.  Probably wouldn’t hurt to carry a paper copy of the email, either, as extra insurance. thanks walt brent

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yep, I know, probably two words you don’t expect to see in the same sentence, but check this out: Last week, Walt Winter ended a piece of correspondence by wishing me tight lines and screaming reels.  I left the next day for three days on the Miramichi to fish for Atlantic Salmon.  Hooked and landed 4 the first day, biggest one was 15 lbs.  Next day, hooked 4 and landed 1. River was up and dirty from snowmelt the next day, so I didn’t fish. That pretty much beats any whole salmon SEASON I’ve ever enjoyed, never mind a single weekend.  Talk about your tight lines and screaming reels: just about toasted my old Beaudex. I attribute this success 100% to Walt, so if you ever get email from him that ends with ‘tight lines and screaming reels’, drop everything and get the hell to the river.  Probably wouldn’t hurt to carry a paper copy of the email, either, as extra insurance. thanks walt brent

anytime my friend. dang wayno, these distilled mountain phenacite brews work! waldo the soothsayer? —                 waldo’s palmistry and flyshop      P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604     ezflyfish.com for your flyfishing gear:           http://www.ezflyfish.com

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waldo the soothsayer?

Careful there, Walt.  Next think you know you’ll start playing with snakes, and…well, just remember what happened to Cassandra… — Bob Jarvis Mail address hacked to foil spammers!

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waldo the soothsayer? Careful there, Walt.  Next think you know you’ll start playing with snakes, and…well, just remember what happened to Cassandra… — Bob Jarvis Mail address hacked to foil spammers!

        bob, in watauga county, nc, playing with snakes is a prerequisite to graduation from high school.   don’t you fret about ol waldo and them timber rattlers. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Question:

Has anyone fished the Resica Falls section lately?  How are the conditions?

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soupy…  An occasional fish at first and last light, or so I’m told.  This isn’t really a trout stream imho.  But it sure is purty…:)

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I will be visiting Bushkills PA next week and was looking for any suggestions about where to go flyfishing while there (a good way to find some quality time to "escape" from the family reunion!) I am happy with either trout or bass waters, might bring my canoe if it seems worth it. Ideally, a stream or river with trout would be nice. Thanks Steve

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Question:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to the wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I was in a round bucks bag tube. Would a small droque help to keep you side on to the wind.

I use an oval Caddis float tube, and have occasion to run into the wind in the afternoons on the Sierra lakes I frequent.  A couple of years ago I picked up a nylon anchor bag, that comes with several fathoms of 3/8′ nylon rope.  It’s really changed the way I fish lakes. The bag allows me to determine how much weight I need to use depending upon the strength of the wind, but I’ve found that 2-3 fist sized rocks will usually do the job.  Even with rocks, the bag will fit into a pocket on my tube, so I needn’t drag it around as I travel.  If the wind is lighter than anticipated, I drop a rock, and if it picks up, I’m never very far from shore where I can grab another. I’ve attached a one-handed snap-swivel to the rope, and that makes it easy to change the attachment point to different d-rings on the tube, because the attachment point inevitably ends up upwind, although it’s not too difficult to maintain a casting position facing in any direction, once I’m anchored. My fishing buddy, an ex-swabby, says that for any given depth, the anchor line should be increased as the wind increases.  He gave me some sort of naval term for it, which I disremember, but a longer line helps the anchor hold better in heavier winds.  See illustration below. [Image] Many is the time I’ll anchor out in the middle of a lake, and cast upwind.  I’ll let the wind move my fly and I find that this method puts my fly over lots of fish.  When I want to move, I just pull the thing off the bottom, and either kick to a new location, or let the wind take me.  At first I worried that I wouldn’t know when the anchor hit bottom, but I find there’s no mistaking it. Tubing changed the way I fish lakes, and the anchor has changed the way I tube. Anglerboy — Trout fear me, Women want me. http://www.midtown.net/~angler/ Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit <HTML

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITEOne thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to <BRthe wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I <BRwas in a round bucks bag tube. <PWould a small droque help to keep you side on to the wind.</BLOCKQUOTE I use an oval Caddis float tube, and have occasion to run into the wind in the afternoons on the Sierra lakes I frequent.&nbsp; A couple of years ago I picked up a nylon anchor bag, that comes with several fathoms of 3/8′ nylon rope.&nbsp; It’s really changed the way I fish lakes. <PThe bag allows me to determine how much weight I need to use depending upon the strength of the wind, but I’ve found that 2-3 fist sized rocks will usually do the job.&nbsp; Even with rocks, the bag will fit into a pocket on my tube, so I needn’t drag it around as I travel.&nbsp; If the wind is lighter than anticipated, I drop a rock, and if it picks up, I’m never very far from shore where I can grab another. <PI’ve attached a one-handed snap-swivel to the rope, and that makes it easy to change the attachment point to different d-rings on the tube, because the attachment point inevitably ends up upwind, although it’s not too difficult to maintain a casting position facing in any direction, once I’m anchored. <PMy fishing buddy, an ex-swabby, says that for any given depth, the anchor line should be increased as the wind increases.&nbsp; He gave me some sort of naval term for it, which I disremember, but a longer line helps the anchor hold better in heavier winds.&nbsp; See illustration below. <PMany is the time I’ll anchor out in the middle of a lake, and cast upwind.&nbsp; I’ll let the wind move my fly and I find that this method puts my fly over lots of fish.&nbsp; When I want to move, I just pull the thing off the bottom, and either kick to a new location, or let the wind take me.&nbsp; At first I worried that I wouldn’t know when the anchor hit bottom, but I find there’s no mistaking it. <PTubing changed the way I fish lakes, and the anchor has changed the way I tube. <PAnglerboy <P– <BRTrout fear me, <BRWomen want me. <BR<A HREF="http://www.midtown.net/~angler/"http://www.midtown.net/~angler/</A <BR&nbsp;</HTML Content-Type: image/jpeg Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="C:tempnsmailRA.jpeg" <encoded_portion_removed RRQAUUUUAFFFFABRRRQAUUUUAFFFFAH/2Q==

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Dave I have been float tubeing now for 3 years, Although I don’t profess to being an expert I will gladly share with you my thoughts on the technique. No doubt other float tubers will have there own ideas, Inparticular the anglers that fish running waters. With regards to the techniqe I find that a  most satisfactory method to fish is a slow figure of eight but be careful of the all too common takes on the lift. When float tubeing I normally fish with two flies, Some anglers fish with one some with two it,s really what you feel most comfortable with. But bearing in mind you have not got the same luxury of extendable landing nets. This thought should hopefully help you with your selection of leader length. From what I have witnessed rod lengths again vary from angler to angler from say 9′ to 11′,  Again I’m talking still waters. River anglers may go down to 7′ or 8′, I personally use a 101/2′ rod which I find quite adequate. With referance to casting, As with any type of fly fishing you still have to load the rod. Again this depends on individual skills, Having said that many fish I have found are caught short lineing. Retrieving options are as varied as boat or bank angling, My advise on this would be to use them all. On the matter of loseing your rod whilst unhooking a fish or maybe having a sandwich, beer, ect. Most float tubes have two Velcro straps at the front of the tube to secure your rod. Additional tips. 1) Walk into the water backwards when launching. 2) Wear a bouyancy aid. 3) Tie your flippers to your ankles, (Individually of coarse). 4) Don’t drink too much fluid if you have a weak bladder, This can be most embarrassing but you can always blame it on leeking waders. 5) Observe all the safety guidlines set down by The Health and Safety Executive, Details can be obtained from The British Float Tube Association (See below). The British Float Tube Association Secretary Andre’ Russell 24 Merton Avenue, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2JP. Tel: 0116-260-6924. Hope this helps, Let us know how you get on. Tight lines. Tony Connor : Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water : and I need help with the answers to a few questions. : : What techniques are recommended. : : How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. : : In fact what is the best rod length. : : How long a leader. : : How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do : I cast further. : : Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out : recast. : : How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths : when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. : : Any more tips. : : Dave Bolt : UK :

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Dave I have been float tubeing now for 3 years, Although I don’t profess to being an expert I will gladly share with you my thoughts on the technique. No doubt other float tubers will have there own ideas, Inparticular the anglers that fish running waters. With regards to the techniqe I find that a  most satisfactory method to fish is a slow figure of eight but be careful of the all too common takes on the lift. When float tubeing I normally fish with two flies, Some anglers fish with one some with two it,s really what you feel most comfortable with. But bearing in mind you have not got the same luxury of extendable landing nets. This thought should hopefully help you with your selection of leader length. From what I have witnessed rod lengths again vary from angler to angler from say 9′ to 11′,  Again I’m talking still waters. River anglers may go down to 7′ or 8′, I personally use a 101/2′ rod which I find quite adequate. With referance to casting, As with any type of fly fishing you still have to load the rod. Again this depends on individual skills, Having said that many fish I have found are caught short lineing. Retrieving options are as varied as boat or bank angling, My advise on this would be to use them all. On the matter of loseing your rod whilst unhooking a fish or maybe having a sandwich, beer, ect. Most float tubes have two Velcro straps at the front of the tube to secure your rod. Additional tips. 1) Walk into the water backwards when launching. 2) Wear a bouyancy aid. 3) Tie your flippers to your ankles, (Individually of coarse). 4) Don’t drink too much fluid if you have a weak bladder, This can be most embarrassing but you can always blame it on leeking waders. 5) Observe all the safety guidlines set down by The Health and Safety Executive, Details can be obtained from The British Float Tube Association (See below). The British Float Tube Association Secretary Andre’ Russell 24 Merton Avenue, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2JP. Tel: 0116-260-6924. Hope this helps, Let us know how you get on. Tight lines. Tony Connor U.K. Lancashire. : Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water : and I need help with the answers to a few questions. : : What techniques are recommended. : : How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. : : In fact what is the best rod length. : : How long a leader. : : How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do : I cast further. : : Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out : recast. : : How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths : when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. : : Any more tips. : : Dave Bolt : UK :

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: One thing I did find a problem was trying to stay orientated relative to : the wind. The tendency was to rotate until I was head on to the wind. I : was in a round bucks bag tube. : I find the wind to be a real pain in the rear, and would be interested : in hearing about any type of anchor used by other belly boaters.  On a big : lake it is hard to maintain a steady position or to determine how fast : your fly is dragging due to the wind. The best way that I have to deal with the wind is to keep at my back. This allows me to slowly kick so that I can maintain postion and steer the tube back into the position I want. It does not take much effrot to do this, and I can stay "put" in any wind that I can cast in. Of course, this is not always possible with some spots that I want to fish. Then, I’ll drift like I would in a canoe and paddle back to drift again. And remember, whitecaps breaking over your casting apron is nature’s way of telling you to knock off the foolishness and head for shore. ;- — Jon Porter

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Sue wants to know, will a big fish tow you round the water. Should we get in some water skiing practice

We have a local lake that the ODF&W (Oregon Dept. of Fish & Wildlife) puts the spawned out hatchery steelhead into each year.  A friend of mine hooked one last spring and spent two hours with it towing him around the lake.  He couldn’t do a thing about it.  And, he ended up taking the fish home for a few meals. — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. At once? One or more up to as many as you can handle. In fact what is the best rod length. Generally longer is better in a tube as you are so close to the water. How long a leader. for a surface presentation 12 feet is about average for sinking lines 5 or 6 feet is averge . How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further. however far away the fish are. You should be able to get closer to fish and hence cast a shorter line. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. I stick the reel end of the rod sort of into my lap or between my knees. Many tubes have velcro bits on either side of the stripping apron lay your rod across these and fasten with the velcro before you start fiddling with fly boxes and cutting leaders Any more tips. Take a piss before you go out and take some water (NO BEER!) with you. I’ve had problems with leg cramps brought on by lack of fuids. Dave Bolt UK Ralph H

 I second the idea to take a piss before you enter the water!!! HEHEHE. Looks kinda silly kicking to the shore only to urinate all over your waders because you can’t pull em down fast enogh…

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Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions.

Just a couple general pointers. 1. Wear a lfe vest. 2. Scout the area and find a nice flat, firm bottom on which to enter. 3. Make sure you’re familiar with your tube. Think about how you’d get out in a problem. 4. Inflate it properly. Not too much and not too little. 5. Keep it close to shore – real close –  until you’re comfortable, and understand your ability. 6. Pee before you begin. 7. Narrow down your  tackle to the bear minimum. 8. Consider doing it on a small body of water on a calm day. Every spring, after a long winter of no physical activity, I get leg cramps my first time or two out. Keep it slow, stop and rest as soon as a cramp begins. Good luck, John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

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Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod. In fact what is the best rod length. How long a leader. How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube. Any more tips. Dave Bolt UK

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Next week I am going float tubeing for the first time on a still water and I need help with the answers to a few questions. What techniques are recommended. How many Flies do I fish, I will be using either an 8foot or 9 foot rod.

At once? One or more up to as many as you can handle. In fact what is the best rod length.

Generally longer is better in a tube as you are so close to the water. How long a leader.

for a surface presentation 12 feet is about average for sinking lines 5 or 6 feet is averge . How far do I cast, do use enough line to load the rod from pickup or do I cast further.

however far away the fish are. You should be able to get closer to fish and hence cast a shorter line. Do I retieve or use loch style with a hang before a simple up and out recast. How do I stop the rod falling into the water and sinking into the depths when I change flies or land a fish, do I keep it attached to the tube.

I stick the reel end of the rod sort of into my lap or between my knees. Many tubes have velcro bits on either side of the stripping apron lay your rod across these and fasten with the velcro before you start fiddling with fly boxes and cutting leaders Any more tips.

Take a piss before you go out and take some water (NO BEER!) with you. I’ve had problems with leg cramps brought on by lack of fuids. Dave Bolt UK

Ralph H

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Makunke writes:   I have not heard any good reports about the types of wading staff that either fold or telescope.  Does anyone have any good experiences with these types of wading staff? Kirk,’Fraid not.  The problem is folding or telescoping back up after you’re done using the thing Kirk, another problem with Folstaff is storage. Should you keep it in your car year-round, unassembled, the bungee has a tendency to take a set, preventing future secure setup. A Folstaff, which relies upon friction, really locks up.

I have been happy with my Folstaff for the 10 years I’ve used it. I do not lubricate the joints as my expereince is they can vibrate loose in heavy currents. I tap them lightly with a rock when I need to fold it down. Perhaps inconvenient for some but it works fine for me. Ralph H replace "spamsucks" with direct for email reply.

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I made a simple one for my wife.  It was wood, about a meter and a half long with a rubber foot from a cane on the top end. She likes to lean on the end. The other end was fitted with a 1/2 inch copper coupling and cross pinned through the wood and copper with a brass rod to hold the coupling out by a couple of centimeters.  The copper tube cut through moss and algae for a better purchase on slippery rocks.  A loop of nylon with a stainless clip finished it off.

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  I have not heard any good reports about the types of wading staff that either fold or telescope.  Does anyone have any good experiences with these types of wading staff? I have been happy with my Folstaff for the 10 years I’ve used it. I do not lubricate the joints as my expereince is they can vibrate loose in heavy currents. I tap them lightly with a rock when I need to fold it down. Perhaps inconvenient for some but it works fine for me. Ralph H

The folstaff flexes a little and didn’t feel as secure as an adjustable length carbide tipped cross-country ski pole. The basket is removeable. I set the height to just at the top of my waders so if my hand gets wet I know not to take that step. It reduces down short enough to fit in my fat multi-rod travel tube. Mark Vinsel —   new web address:  http://www.vinsel.com

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I’ve taken to using a Folstaff and find it adequate if unaesthetic, although it’s certainly portable. Just keep the joints greased with a candle butt or you’ll never separate them. —

  Greetings:  I’m on my second Folstaff now. I like the larger version; the small one is a little too wosy to inspire my confidence in this contraption.  When the joints get wet and hard to separate, I find that tapping….er,…OK, _whacking_ the thing on a dead tree trunk, (or fellow fly fisher who is catching more fish than you),  will loosen up the joints if you kind of twist them off. (On the Folstaff, I mean…)  :-)   Cheers, and tight lines,   -Mark

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I find it a nuisance to carry a full length staff while hiking along a river/stream.  I have not heard any good reports about the types of wading staff that either fold or telescope.  Does anyone have any good experiences with these types of wading staff? Thanks, Kirk

Kirk, I bought the Orvis one since I  didn