Question:

Wow, I just had a great time fishing in front of the school on the Lielupe River! Thanks to you guys here on ROFF (whatever that is..). I was headed home after work, glanced over at the usually rather full fishing spot, and not one local was there, probably because of the overcast skies and promise of rain. The space with the clear zone for a backcast was wide open, and as I stood there thinking about it, 2 big old rises appeared <right there.  Easy decision: tossed the briefcase in the car, peeled off the shoes and socks, stepped into my mudboots, and assembled the 4-weight. Strolled over to the bank and watched for a minute. The skeeters were there, but so were these tiny little black flying things and the perch were rising for them all over. Not the big thrashing rises from the other day, but some respectable rises nontheless. And lots of them. I tied on a 6x tippet, gave myself about 1 meter of lead, and looked at my flycase. I recently bought a nice old Soviet cigarette case at a junk shop and lined it with foam as a nymph case for my 4-wt, and saw a fly that looked interesting. Its a type of caterpillar, I think, with a palmered hackle around a yellow-orange body on a #12(?) hook. Looks like a wolly bugger without a tail. I was thinking about what Mike said about colors, and how Perch nip at the tails and to use a wolly with a short tail, so I tied this on. Also, the water is getting shallow, and this fly can float if you lay it out gently, so I figured it would work for presentation practice, too. First cast was short and easy, as someone suggested here. Then I gradually stretched out my false casts farther and farther, thinking ‘back and UP’, and as someone else suggested, watching over my shoulder for the line to straighten. It was a LONG wait…the line would do a sort of ‘double tug’ at the end of my backcast: once when the tailing loop of the backcast would hit the far end, then again when the entire line was laid out up there. Dunno how the line can defy gravity for so long waiting to stretch out taut, but it does. Then, I swept it forward firmly and sharply, pointing it like a sword (as someone else suggested), and was amazed at how my casts were straight, long, and perfectly presented. First cast, fish on! Of course, it was some little 6-inch thing, but hey!, it was just what I wanted. I brought it in with the line, not bothering to spool up the reel, and let it go with my heartfelt thanks. Then I cast out again, watching the line behind me and waiting forever for the backcast to load up. The forward cast and watching the fly stay ‘above the line’ as Jarmo suggested made total sense, and it felt just right. Second cast, fish on! Too cool! This guy was a bit bigger (6.1 inches, probably), but I got that feeling that it was working just like it was supposed to! All those tiny details were making sense, and it was great. Then the skies opened up and it started to rain. I remembered the thread about how fish seem to bite better at one time or another, and figured the Perch seemed to like to hit just before the skies open up. A few minutes later, when the rain stopped and the sun broke through, there were no rises. As the clouds covered up again, the rises came more and more regularly until just before it rained again. At some point, I decided to experiment with flies as the caterpillar was getting soaked and starting to snag on the muck at the bottom. I took it off and tied on a very tiny yellow thing I have; I think its a #18 yellow Comparadun. Anyway, I was laying it out there exactly where the big rises were and letting it lie there, but no takes. Finally, I decided to head home and started retrieving it slowly. Wham! it got hit and spit out. Wham! it got hit again. Ahhh, so THATS the secret! So I spent the next half hour casting and gently retrieving it, hauling in fish with almost every cast. Great. Of course, these were no great monsters, and I realize that perch are pathetically easy to catch, but at least now I have a baseline to experiment with, and grow from. I know there are some BIG perch in this stretch of water, so I’m ready to start learning how to aim for them. All in all, it was a great way to spend an hour after work, and I was thinking of all the tidbits of advice from folks here about everything, from how to cast, to the effect of cloud cover, to what color and type of fly to use, to knots, to everything. Thanks, guys!! riverman (happy boy)

Response:

Wow, I just had a great time fishing in front of the school on the Lielupe River! Thanks to you guys here on ROFF (whatever that is..).

Congratulations!    Just one point though, catching small perch may seem "pathetically easy" sometimes. The larger ones can be quite a challenge. Even a medium sized perch will give you a good run for your money on a #4 wt. If you only seem to be catching small ones, try fishing a streamer anyway, occasionally, a large perch will be hanging around waiting for one of his smaller brethren to make a mistake. TL MC

Response:

Question:

 I am fishing in Hawaii for Bluefin trevally(omilu). I have had limited sucess and am fishing from shore.I have found areas that have them via. catches and snorkling. But the fish are particular, most days they chase the fly to the beach,only to stop shot of a complete strike.Other times they are just ON the hook and running. Is there anyone who could shed some lite on my short strikes.. Three days without a hook up,,,,, Jeff Brazda

Response:

Hello Jeff, I have fished for them in Christmas Island south of Hawaii just above the equator where they are probably more plentiful and more aggressive. They like red/yellow streamers there most of the time. They like fly rod salt water poppers too. In a populated area, I would fish for them in the AM, PM and at night. With lower light levels they can be more aggressive. Also try to go places where no one else fishes. A boat would be an advantage to get to places that are not heavily fished. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am fishing in Hawaii for Bluefin trevally(omilu). I have had limited sucess and am fishing from shore.I have found areas that have them via. catches and snorkling. But the fish are particular, most days they chase the fly to the beach,only to stop shot of a complete strike.Other times they are just ON the hook and running. Is there anyone who could shed some lite on my short strikes.. Three days without a hook up,,,,, Jeff Brazda

Response:

I am fishing in Hawaii for Bluefin trevally(omilu). I have had limited sucess and am fishing from shore.I have found areas that have them via. catches and snorkling. But the fish are particular, most days they chase the fly to the beach,only to stop shot of a complete strike.Other times they are just ON the hook and running. Is there anyone who could shed some lite on my short strikes.. Three days without a hook up,,,,, Jeff Brazda

Hello Jeff… I have had the same problem when fishing here in South Africa and Mozambique. The trick it seems is to use a fly (deceiver) with little flash. Just one or two strands of flashabou on the sides are sufficient. Best fly colours are chartreuse, then pink. Poppers are excellent, but if the fish are sitting in deep water, then they will rarely shoot up to the surface to hit the popper. Deceivers and a sinking line work best in this case. Also, the retrieve is as fast as you can. Hope this helps Regards Sudesh Pursad Bamba Flyfishing Adventures www.bamba.co.za Regards Sudesh Pursad Bamba Flyfishing Adventures www.bamba.co.za

Response:

Question:

Who manufactures Cabela’s flyfishing rods and reels? — Jeff Hancock

Response:

Mama san, Papa san and baby san….. ……and whoever else the boss can drag into his office after everyone else leaves…..kinda like Niki shoes. john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Who manufactures Cabela’s flyfishing rods and reels? — Jeff Hancock

Response:

Question:

Hi Doug, Thanks for the comment.  I kinda like the style.  It’s different!  ;) For power on mine, I’m going with the merCruiser 6cyl. diesel.  That will give me 225 HP at each prop.  I’m also going to use the Bravo 3 outdrive.

Hey Mark, help me out here.  Why are you choosing the Bravo 3 outdrive for a twin engine application?  What advantage is there as compared to any of the less expensive alternatives? Who builds that engine?  It sounds like a great engine for that application. Regards, Tom Brown

Response:

                        *** big snip *** Shameless plug for MaxWeld boats … see thier site at: http://www.maxweldboats.com/ You’re getting a really cool boat…I love its looks. — Harry Krause

Thanks Harry.  I’m not too sure about the looks.  I kinda like the looks of a boat with a well appointed fly bridge better.  However, the boat *should* be really functional and they *are* extremely stable fishing platforms and that means a lot more to me than looks.  (besides the fact that they are "hell-built" for stout!) Still having trouble deciding on colors and a name for her.  The wife and I have decided (with a little coaching from the builder) to paint the cabin the same grey as the pictures show and we are going to go with a black back deck.  I thought something lighter, but Andy says that the black deck is a lot easier to maintain.  I personally think that when the sun shines on it the back deck is going to get awful warm!  Whatever we decide … No White in the work area!!  Makes my tired old eyes hurt!  ;) -mArk-  (who finds naming a boat harder than naming kids!  ;))

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Doug, Thanks for the comment.  I kinda like the style.  It’s different!  ;) For power on mine, I’m going with the merCruiser 6cyl. diesel.  That will give me 225 HP at each prop.  I’m also going to use the Bravo 3 outdrive. Andy will set them up with almost any type of power that you want.  The one he just finished building (basicly the same boat I’m getting) had twin Cummins with jet pumps type outdrives.  I don’t know if he has build one that is a true inboard yet, but he has been talking about it.  It’s just a matter of what the customer wants.  He’s *very* flexible. I looked at several different engines before I picked the merCruisers.  I had originally picked the Volvo 6cyl. diesel, but Andy told me that there had been quite a few warranty issues (new engines that needed work) and that Volvo had not been real good about honoring the warranty.  He said that having your new boat have to go in right away for engine work kind of soured the whole boat buying process and suggested that I go with the merCruiser for dependability sake. Andy worked out a deal with the merCruiser dealer to get the engines at the same price as those from Volvo.  They usually cost about $2000 an issue more. The Cummins engines are like $10k more.  Kinda outa my price range! -mArk-                          (not speaking for the company) Shameless plug for MaxWeld boats … see thier site at: http://www.maxweldboats.com/

You’re getting a really cool boat…I love its looks. — Harry Krause I know how hard it is for you to put food on your family. -GW Bush

Response:

Wow-Cooool Cat ! What’s the power ? Do they offer inboards in a catamaran ? Doug Miller

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it. I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits. He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk-

Response:

Hi Doug, Thanks for the comment.  I kinda like the style.  It’s different!  ;) For power on mine, I’m going with the merCruiser 6cyl. diesel.  That will give me 225 HP at each prop.  I’m also going to use the Bravo 3 outdrive. Hey Mark, help me out here.  Why are you choosing the Bravo 3 outdrive for a twin engine application?  What advantage is there as compared to any of the less expensive alternatives? Who builds that engine?  It sounds like a great engine for that application. Regards, Tom Brown

Hi Tom.  It’s another one of those hell-built-for-stout things that I’m so hung up on.  I want equiptment that won’t fail (or at least has less chance of failure) when I’m a hundred miles from shore.  There is also the fact that the twin props give you a little more umph.  Besides, Andy catagoricly refuses to use "cheap" stuff on his boats.  He only wants to use the best he can get in any given class.  The Bravo 3 is much stouter than any of the Alpha drives and actually has quite a few design improvements over the Bravo 1 & 2 outdrives. I believe Andy told me that the engine blocks actually come from Isuzu (sp?). All the bolt on stuff is Mercury specific.  I just hope these engines are as bullet proof (idiot proof??  ;)) as I’ve been led to believe.  I spent a lot of time researching both the merCruiser and the Volvo diesel offerings and they seemed pretty close.  Part of the decision was based on the builders recommondation (and I trust Andy a lot … known him for a lot of years!). -mArk-   (who beleives that down fishing time means lost revenue)

Response:

Hi Doug, Thanks for the comment.  I kinda like the style.  It’s different!  ;) For power on mine, I’m going with the merCruiser 6cyl. diesel.  That will give me 225 HP at each prop.  I’m also going to use the Bravo 3 outdrive. Andy will set them up with almost any type of power that you want.  The one he just finished building (basicly the same boat I’m getting) had twin Cummins with jet pumps type outdrives.  I don’t know if he has build one that is a true inboard yet, but he has been talking about it.  It’s just a matter of what the customer wants.  He’s *very* flexible. I looked at several different engines before I picked the merCruisers.  I had originally picked the Volvo 6cyl. diesel, but Andy told me that there had been quite a few warranty issues (new engines that needed work) and that Volvo had not been real good about honoring the warranty.  He said that having your new boat have to go in right away for engine work kind of soured the whole boat buying process and suggested that I go with the merCruiser for dependability sake. Andy worked out a deal with the merCruiser dealer to get the engines at the same price as those from Volvo.  They usually cost about $2000 an issue more. The Cummins engines are like $10k more.  Kinda outa my price range! -mArk-                          (not speaking for the company) Shameless plug for MaxWeld boats … see thier site at: http://www.maxweldboats.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wow-Cooool Cat ! What’s the power ? Do they offer inboards in a catamaran ? Doug Miller Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it. I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits. He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk-

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it.  I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits.  He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk- Sounds woodlike. What is she? — Harry Krause Naw … we’ve talked about this one a little before … it’s an aluminum Catamaran style hull with twin merCrusier 6cyl. diesels.  Pictures at: http://www.maxweldboats.com The picture on the first page is a 27′ version of what my boat is going to be.  You looked at this one once before and told me that you’d feel safe about going out to sea in a boat like that … -mArk-

You are correct. When you started discussing bulkheads and frame, I immediately thought of wood. — Harry Krause The students at Yale came from all different backgrounds and all parts of the country. Within months, I knew many of them. -GW Bush

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it.  I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits.  He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk- Sounds woodlike. What is she? — Harry Krause

Naw … we’ve talked about this one a little before … it’s an aluminum Catamaran style hull with twin merCrusier 6cyl. diesels.  Pictures at: http://www.maxweldboats.com The picture on the first page is a 27′ version of what my boat is going to be.  You looked at this one once before and told me that you’d feel safe about going out to sea in a boat like that … -mArk-

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it.  I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits.  He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk-

Sounds woodlike. What is she? — Harry Krause This case has had full analyzation and has been looked at a lot. I understand the emotionality of death penalty cases. Dubya Dense

Response:

Went down to the coast last Friday (3/23) so that I could stop in and see what progress has been made on the new boat.  Took Andy and crew 2 weeks to lay the bulkheads and stringers, but the boat is finally right-side up and starting to take shape!!  They started putting the sides of the hulls on so it actually is starting to look like a boat!  I’m getting really excited as things start to take shape! Whilst I was looking at what they had done during the week Andy told me that he didn’t think the boat had a deck length of 28′10" as we originally agreed too (he has stated several times that all sizes are estimates as each hull is layed by hand and everything is custom).  He put the tape on it and came up with the new length of 29′9".  He looked at me and smiled and say something to the affect of "I didn’t think you’d mind the extra (almost) foot of length".  ;)  Too Cool! He’s also decided to change the "swim platfrom" from 36" to 42".  He was saying that the extra 6" doesn’t seem like much, but it really makes a difference when you are out on it.  WAY Cool!  ;) Still haven’t picked a color scheme or a name, but we are working on it.  I was going to use some of the commercial gear off’n "Fish Assassin" (my 22′ dory) but Andy says "nope".  He does not like the galvanized davits for the down-riggers and is going to build me some custom made Stainless davits.  He is also going to build me some custom aluminum outriggers … length to be determined, but they look like they want to be about 28′ with forstays built into them. WhooWhee!!  Can’t hardly contain myself waiting for the magical day when I get to take delivery (about June 16th)!!  ;)  ;) -mArk-

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Question:

 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

Response:

if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  

You could probably kill a tarpon with a 3wt, but I doubt you could lift it to the boat with a 3wt. Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW — Charlie…

Response:

Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW

Sounds like you may already own that ultimate rod RW was talking about. Does it deliver Chinese food and pizza as well? <g –Steve

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

ehh? please allow me shuffle my feet and to clarify…. *if* I only had one rod available to me, *and* i wanted to fish many different situations, a 9′ 6wt would be my choice, lines down. that is the advise i received when i first started flyfishing down in FL and it, imo, was very good advise. it allowed me to fish in many different waters with very little monetary outlay. now that i own many different rods for different fishing situations, the 6wt is rarely used any more. however, it will be dusted-off very soon for chasin’ chromers. walt fellow expert in creating tailing loops and windknots otherwise up-to-my-knees-in-trout in God’s Country <g

Response:

8<…. if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

wayno, with all due respect, fighting a 100 pound tarpon "properly" would destroy a 3wt rod. i say "properly" in the context of releasing the fish unharmed in a timely manner so that the fish could live to return to his environment, "unchanged", or more aptly stated, "wild." the length of time it would take to land a 100 pound tarpon on a 3wt, imo, would kill the fish either by exhaustion or by shark attack. that said, if you had said "hook" vs "landed" i could have agreed with you….it would be possible to deliver a thinly-dressed streamer using a 3wt to a cruising tarpon. why anyone would choose to do so is dahlwhinnian…. to clarify, hitch a ride with zimbo tomorrow am and i’ll put you on a mountain-version "tarpon" with your 3wt. <g –kamloopy wataugan waldo — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight

and I have four (counting the mix & match East Branch) and it’s my most frequently used weight.  - diffferent folks, different strokes. (8′, 8′ 6", 9′ 6", & 10′6") Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use …

You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks.

He is my evil twin.      :)

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. He is my evil twin.      :)

Ah, so you want to build a rod capable of tossing a bottle of scotch 60 feet and landing a 185 lb twin. Definitely a 12wt. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

He is my evil twin.

Oh shit, not another one of those!   <g For a cheap intro to rod building, I’d still stay away from anything too crummy.   After all, when you’re done, you do want to be proud of it and fish with it.   My first few rods were built on higher end St. Croix blanks. Well below $100 each.   I also just started on one that’s a discontinued Loomis blank (IM6) I bought off Ebay for about 40 bucks.   There are also some dealers out there who have a supply of discontinued blanks.   D&E Rods (www.danderods.com) is one.   I have a nice 3 wt. Loomis IMX blank from them awaiting my attention (don’t remember that price, but it was cheap enough that I bought a blank I don’t need.) Either way you go, I recommend a decent blank.   The hardware cost and time invested are too much to put it into a practice stick.   Even if you screw it up cosmetically, it will still fish well (I have one or two that fit that category.) Joe F.

Response:

The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

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If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

See below.  I’ve already got a 3 pce Diamondback 6 wt. with a Hardy reel but who knows, I might need a spare some day. $10.00 ?  <g Peter

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Good for you. There are whores, and there are whores.  The main thing is to make sure you live happy, and if possible die in the same condition. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt

<SNIP

Response:

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod.

        i don’t know what the hell this has to do with anything, or whether it makes any difference to anyone who might read this sort of thing (what *are* we doing discussing fly rods on roff, anyway?), but in my damn near fifty years of fishing with a fly rod, i have never owned a 6 weight rod.  in fact, i have never cast a heavier line than a 5 for trout, even when we girded our loins for the fabled big water and high winds of montana.  i think the issue is almost completely controlled by the question of what the size and weight of the fly might be.  if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

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You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt reel, was last used catching a steelie here in NC. It was first used catching bass on watermelon pond and it has also been used catching more species than any other rod in my inventory. Reminiscing, it has caught largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, suwanee bass, sunshine bass, peacock bass, many varieties of panfish, specs, redfish, black drum, snook, trout, stripers, weakfish, bonefish, gar, pickerel, barracuda, shad, tarpon, cobia (damn near lost it on that bad boy), mackeral, crevalles, ladyfish, and of course, that gorgeous chromer last winter in the company of that fine southern gentleman, Tom Brown. The butt of this rod  is still used daily as I use it as a reel "holder" when I manually load reels for sale. This rod is as much a part of me as my soul, as a matter of fact, blasphemously, one could say it is part and parcel of my soul. but i digress. my affliction spread like the plague. i acquired numerous rods and reels to fit certain needs, some psychological. although i suck at it, i even took up tying flies. i still was far from being satiated….. so, i opened a "flyshop". i now have more gawdang gear than any sane person should be allowed to possess. hundreds of reels and of rods, seemingly, enough line, leader & tippet to circumvent the earth. yet, be still, the fire burns hotter. my fervant desire now, as all invoices are paid, is to retire with all of this cool stuff. mine, all mine <g i, waldo, am a whore. ww — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either.

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. –walt Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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[snip] All good advice and I’ll add just one little bit more.  You can get away with a 7 or 8 wt. for small fish if you can find a short, slow action version and build it with a standard trout handle.  I lucked into an old 8′ 6" Orvis Green Mountain with a slow – moderate action and a small handle (no fighting butt.)  I’d have no difficulty using it for anything.  I’ve caught smallies under a pound that put a decent bend in it yet it’ll toss a 2/0 streamer about 80′.  I’ve tried a Fenwick HMGF 8′6" 7 wt. that also impressed me as a good all-round rod. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Ken wrote snip:Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped.

I think Ken is correct. I love my little 3 weight rods for bluegill and I take my fair share of bass on them, but they are all small bass. I don’t think I have landed a bass of over 3 pounds on one of them. There is no way in hell I can use a 3 weight to cast the flies that work best for large bass with a rod that small. I most often use  a 7 to 10 weight rod when I am fishing for sizable bass.  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. Big Dale

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RE choose a rod blank for "pan fish to bass?" Sandy’s treatise on blank choosing with an angle: A 6-weight rod is generally considered the most versatile trout rod. With a 6-weight you can cast anything from an itty-bitty mayfly on a 7x tippet to a #2 woolly bugger on 0x tippet. But if you want to cast pike flies, bass worms or extra-bushy bass poppers, you will probably want a 7 or 8 weight rod. I like 9′ rods. But some people think they have more control over shorter (8′) rods. Once you have the size down, you still have to zero in on cost and action. Some guys (actually) like soft, slow action rods, like many built by Orvis, Winston or Powell. Slow action rods are easier to cast, more graceful to use. But they don’t handle heavy flies, wind or distance casting very well. Orvis, Winston and Powell make some moderately fast rods too. The fastest, most powerful casting canons I know of are made by Sage and Loomis. Someone told me Scott makes a powerful rod, but I never tried one. Cost? The most expensive rods are the best. But how much better are they? Not a whole lot, I don’t think. I have some fly rods that cost almost $600 bucks. They’re damn good rods. But I have a few (Sage, Loomis and Cabelas) that (for finished rods) cost $180 to $220. And they’re damned good rods too. Who makes Cabelas blanks anyway? It’s Loomis isn’t it? There are some really cheap graphite fly rods showing up now, like those made by Eagle Claw. Has anybody tried those? If you like soft, slow action rods, I can’t see any reason to buy an expensive one. What you get–with more money–is casting power. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh   –O0  * http://cns.montana.edu/~sandy/  */

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That’s a tough prescription to fill, Tom. I like a 3wt for bluegill and a 7wt for bass. Logically then a 5wt would be your blank of choice but I don’t think you’d be happy with it in either situation. Not that it wouldn’t work, I used an old 8′ Garcia Conolon 7/8wt for years as my one and only flyrod for bass & bluegill in the days before I knew any better and I caught a lot of fish and had great time with it. The other consideration besides rod weight is action. I like a slow action for most situations, my canoe bluegill rod is a 9′ Winston 3wt, but for tossin’ big, wind eatin’ bass bugs a faster action works better for me, something along the lines of the discontinued Sage RPL series. Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped. — Ken Fortenberry

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Yucks,  slang, corruption of middle English, German Jux. =For fun TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

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The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

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In which case, I at least, am unable to help much. I have never fished for such species. Someone else will doubtless be able to help you with regard to weight length etc. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

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Question:

Build your first one starting with a blank.  You might look at and research http://www.gink.com/shopcart/products/gehrke_rods_2.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have made a decision. I will attempt to build my own bamboo rod! There I said it, it’s official. Now where do I start? I found one site by Bruce Conner. Very informative and inspiring. Some of the other sites seemed to lean toward substantial investments of tools. Bruce briefly describes home made and common tools that will do the job. For those of you that make your own rods, think back. What do you wish you had known then, what you know now? Where can I be pointed. Realize I have absolutely nothing, no knowledge or tools. Green as they come. Thanks boys, Jamie Here is Bruce’s site. http://kalypso.cybercom.net/~bconner/index.html?57,11

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I have made a decision. I will attempt to build my own bamboo rod! There I said it, it’s official. Now where do I start? I found one site by Bruce Conner. Very informative and inspiring. Some of the other sites seemed to lean toward substantial investments of tools. Bruce briefly describes home made and common tools that will do the job. For those of you that make your own rods, think back. What do you wish you had known then, what you know now? Where can I be pointed. Realize I have absolutely nothing, no knowledge or tools. Green as they come. Thanks boys, Jamie Here is Bruce’s site. http://kalypso.cybercom.net/~bconner/index.html?57,11

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Jamie, Welcome to the addiction that is bamboo.  Like all other things fly fishing, once you’ve got the bug, it’s hard to shake.  I myself have been into this thing for about nine months now and, although I haven’t built a rod yet, have found it to be a rewarding and challenging pastime.  One thing that helps is to have a lot of patience and, at times, persistence. I feel that, like fly fishing or tying, you certainly can make some considerable monetary investments when getting into this hobby.  And there is nothing wrong with those purchases if your budget allows.  But that certainly doesn’t need to be the case if you are working with a limited budget.  There is a wealth of information on the internet and in books on building your own tools and equipment, as well as info about building the rods themselves.  Certainly Bruce’s site is a _great_ starting point.  I think that it was one of the first sites I came across, if not the first. Another site that I have found very helpful is the Rodmakers’ listserve site: http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ .  It’s packed with helpful information.  Especially the listserve archives.  If you have any questions on a bamboo rodbuilding topic, check the archive first, it’s probably in there.  You will probably want to join the mailing list as well.  There is a link on the site. I would also recommend checking out some of the many helpful books that are out there.  You don’t even have to buy them, if you can find them in your local library.  A library near me has a copy of Everett Garrison’s book, although I’m starting to realize that this it a stroke of luck.  But you will probably end up buying one anyway: it’s a good thing to have on hand. I have read the Garrison book (_very_ detailed, but tends to be a bit anal), and I own the George Maurer book, which is excellent.  Another very good book that I have read is the one by Wayne Cattanach.  He also has videos to accompany the book, which are fun to watch. You also might want to check around and see if there are any builders near you.  You might be surprised. I think the most helpful advice I can give you as far as equipment goes is this:  if you can afford a set of planing forms, BUY THEM!  Don’t get me wrong, it is possible to build your own.  There is an excellent site by a Thomas Penrose that gives detailed instructions on doing so: http://www.geocities.com/penr0295/forms.htm .  I am building my own forms based on these plans.  But be warned, this is the part that requires a lot of patience and persistence.  Plus it’s not a whole lot of fun.  On the plus side, I have learned some things about metalworking.  But if you can afford it, buy a set.  There are people out there offering them for around $350, which isn’t too bad at all considering the amount of work it takes to build them. Anyway, good luck!  If you have any questions (and I’m sure you will) post them to the Rodmakers’ listserve.  Or drop me an email.  I’d be glad to offer what limited knowledge I can. HTH. Keith – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have made a decision. I will attempt to build my own bamboo rod!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Another site that I have found very helpful is the Rodmakers’ listserve site: http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ .  It’s packed with helpful information.  Especially the listserve archives.  If you have any questions on a bamboo rodbuilding topic, check the archive first, it’s probably in there.  You will probably want to join the mailing list as well.  There is a link on the site. I think the most helpful advice I can give you as far as equipment goes is this:  if you can afford a set of planing forms, BUY THEM!  Don’t get me wrong, it is possible to build your own.  There is an excellent site by a Thomas Penrose that gives detailed instructions on doing so: http://www.geocities.com/penr0295/forms.htm .  I am building my own forms based on these plans.  But be warned, this is the part that requires a lot of patience and persistence.  Plus it’s not a whole lot of fun.  On the plus side, I have learned some things about metalworking.  But if you can afford it, buy a set.  There are people out there offering them for around $350, which isn’t too bad at all considering the amount of work it takes to build them.

Jamie, Keith gives you some good tips here. These are two excellent resources. The Penrose page is really good on certain aspects of the process.  I think the best thing to get up to speed is to read the ENTIRE archives on the rodmakers site. It took me about a month of going at it off and on but it will give you the history of a lot that is going on with the listserve now and will answer a lot of questions better than in the books (but will not answer all- so get the books). You will be way more knowledgeable at the end of that and will be able to make a lot of informed decisions about how you want to approach it, what to buy and what to make, etc. etc. Also, be sure to print out any part of the archives that strikes you as useful as you go through it and start a notebook. This will help when you remember a great tip but can’t find it with the archives search engine (Frank Stetzer’s page). Good luck. Jon

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have made a decision. I will attempt to build my own bamboo rod! There I said it, it’s official. Now where do I start? I found one site by Bruce Conner. Very informative and inspiring. Some of the other sites seemed to lean toward substantial investments of tools. Bruce briefly describes home made and common tools that will do the job. For those of you that make your own rods, think back. What do you wish you had known then, what you know now? Where can I be pointed. Realize I have absolutely nothing, no knowledge or tools. Green as they come. Thanks boys, Jamie Here is Bruce’s site. http://kalypso.cybercom.net/~bconner/index.html?57,11

Jamie, http://www.teleport.com/~gord/canelink.shtml This will get you started. Kiyu

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Question:

Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx.

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Where would i find some information on this fly at? do you have a picture of it?  Thanx.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx. Niblet Fly ought to do it…

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Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx.

Niblet Fly ought to do it…

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are you fishing the surface or subsurface, I like to use floatant on hares ear nymphs and strip it in the surface film  or use beadheads subsurface. Good dry’s are ones that can be skimmed over the surface without sinking or twisting the line, caddis drys are good as are renagades. Bushy wulffs are great for sight and for trout that will pounce on whatever they see. Wolly buggers are a favorite for many, I would use small patterns w/ black being a common color. Many use a bushy dry fly w/ a small nymph dropper usually a midge larva or or smalll beadhead 16-20.  this can be real fun the fish may be attracted by the dry but hit the dropper, just use a foot or two of 5 or 6x tippet and thie it directly to the bend of the bushy dry patterns hook, just make sure you check for breaking stregnth. The dry is a strike indicator for the nymph but this will tell you just how active the fish are toward big drys. If you get no hits on the dry change it if none on the nymph change that it can take out some of the problem solving on what they want because lets face it stockers can be fussy too.  : ]        

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Niblet Fly ought to do it…

ROFLOL! bc.

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aka the Golden Terrestrial. Steve Zimmerman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx. Niblet Fly ought to do it…

Response:

For your question of what type of fly to use ( stocked trout ), I have  had the best luck using a bead head caddis    -**** Posted from RemarQ, http://www.remarq.com/?a ****-  Search and Read Usenet Discussions in your Browser – FREE –

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Question:

Hello,         I’m going on a 5 day trip through the Boundry Waters in September and I’m trying to decide on what kind of footwear to take. The outfitter doesn’t want Teva’s or other types of sandals or other open-toed shoes, sandals do not provide adequate ankle support for the portages that will be required. I’m thinking about just taking a beater pair of high-top tennis shoes but I like something that’ll dry a bit quicker than leather or canvas.          Campmor has a few pairs of watersports footwear that look like they’ll fit the bill for me. One pair is th Hi-Tec Stingrays and the other is the Columbia Snake River Trainer. I suppose either of these would work fine. I kind of like the Hi-Tec ones.         I really would like some opinions and ideas on what I should consider. Suggestions???? Thanks, Al

Response:

Hello,    I’m going on a 5 day trip through the Boundry Waters in September and I’m trying to decide on what kind of footwear to take. The outfitter doesn’t want Teva’s or other types of sandals or other open-toed shoes, sandals do not provide adequate ankle support for the portages that will be required.

They also don’t provide any protection from rocks, sticks, stinging nettles, poison ivy, broken glass, fish hooks.  They are great in camp though.  I’m thinking about just taking a beater pair of high-top tennis shoes but I like something that’ll dry a bit quicker than leather or canvas.

I use el cheapo lightweight hiking boots from Canadian Tire.  They are slow to dry & don’t offer much ankle support.  I’ve worn them regularly for 2 or 3 years including 4 weeks of canoe tripping.  I wear goretex socks to keep my feet dry. — Lloyd Bowles The Mad Canoeist "Keep The open Side Up!" www.madcanoeist.4ever.cc Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

:       I’m going on a 5 day trip through the Boundry Waters in September and : I’m trying to decide on what kind of footwear to take. The outfitter : doesn’t want Teva’s or other types of sandals or other open-toed shoes, : sandals do not provide adequate ankle support for the portages that will : be required. I’m thinking about just taking a beater pair of high-top : tennis shoes but I like something that’ll dry a bit quicker than leather : or canvas. You can’t skimp on ankle support when you’re on a portage, you’re just asking for a sprain or worse.  I usually take 2 pairs of footwear — a good, sturdy pair of hiking boots is required for any portage over about 100 feet, so take them.  Sandals are fine for those short hops, lift-overs, running around the camp, and sitting in the canoe.  It takes maybe 2 minutes to hop out of the canoe, take off your sandals and pull on your hiking boots at the portage… So take both.       "In wilderness is the preservation of the world…" | . .– .   .   .– .-. .-. . . . | | Mundanely: Stephen Fox |-| |-  |   |   `-. |-’ |-| |^| || |            Graphic Designer/ ‘ | `– `– `– –’ |   ‘ ` ‘ ` | ` |            Forestry Technician               (http://webhome.idirect.com/~helspawn)  : Come play Realms of Despair! http://www.game.org :

Response:

I first have to question the outfitter you chose as not wanting Teva’s on a BW trip.  That’s just plain crazy.  I’ve worn Teva’s into every BW trip I’ve taken and highly suggest them to anyone on such a trip.  Supposing that’s not the answer you’re looking for, Converse hi-tops work quite well.  Wear them w/o socks, slop around in the water, and you should be fine.  The bottoms don’t dry out very quickly but that has never been a problem for me. On an added note, hi-tops provide little to no ankle support so, again, Teva’s are a superior choice.  A couple of companies make shoes/boots specifically for portaging.  REI offers one such pair for $75 and Sierra Trading Post offers a water-shoe for $35.  Outfitters in the Ely area, such as Piragis, also sell portage shoes.  Enjoy the BWCA and check out the wild rice pancakes at the Chocolate Moose in Ely to cap off a great trip.

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I would be against Teva’s because of possible foot entrapment walking in /on rocks while unloading the canoe in shallow water. The stiff sole and lack of shoe type structure is too prone to entrapment, I believe. My wife and I use flexible and very thin-soled neoprene booties. At the present my wife uses NRS Kickers and I use the high top NRS Zippered WET Shoe. The high top protects my shin bones from the rocks while loading/unloading the boats. The thin rubber sole has a great tread pattern for traction. We started out with booties when we started canoeing some 11 years ago because we kneel when in the canoe. I felt a stiff sole would increase the risk of entrapping a foot under the seat during a wet exit. We found they do very well for portaging. We’ve used them for 5 trips to Canada including three to Quetico. Last Aug/Sept we did 45 potages in 18 days (Quetico) with no problem. I was carrying a 72 lb. canoe with a 30lb pack and then two packs totaling about 110 lbs on the second trip. We have never felt the need for ankle support, either portaging or backpacking. We use ankle high Bean Main Hunting Shoes, which we have had forever, in camp. At first we planned to change into them on the longer (grater than 1/2 mile) portages, but over the years we’ve never bothered. You definitely have a feel for the ground with the booties. Your foot actually hugs the rocks getting much better traction than stiff soled footwear. We never suffer from sore feet while tripping. However, for the first week home this last time, I felt a little soreness for a few minutes when I first got up in the morning. This passed in about a week. AL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, I’m going on a 5 day trip through the Boundry Waters in September and I’m trying to decide on what kind of footwear to take. The outfitter doesn’t want Teva’s or other types of sandals or other open-toed shoes, sandals do not provide adequate ankle support for the portages that will be required. They also don’t provide any protection from rocks, sticks, stinging nettles, poison ivy, broken glass, fish hooks.  They are great in camp though. I’m thinking about just taking a beater pair of high-top tennis shoes but I like something that’ll dry a bit quicker than leather or canvas.

.

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I use a pair of Red Ball rubber construction boots that I bought when I needed to work some concrete.  They are great for canoeing and are cheap. About $10.  Comfortable enough for portaging up to about a mile.  Have good hiking boots but never take them. Charles Elms    http://www.newsfeeds.com       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

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How about hiking boots?  Waterproof, and ankle support.  They make portages easier.

I’ve worn Army issue jungle boots on all of my Boundary Waters trips. They provide great support, have good traction and they drain. While they stay wet, if you wear wicking liner socks and wool outer socks under them, your feet stay comfortable. When we make camp, I set them out to dry, hang the socks and put on a pair of sneakers. My wife and daughter were so impressed with them, that they made me buy them some as well. We just returned from a 7 day BW trip yesterday and the jungle boots did fine again. Only problem is that I only have one issue pair left after 28 years and I will have to buy another pair soon. — Michael M. Schmieg Attorney at Law 110 Main Street Milford, Ohio 45150 voice: 513-831-1200 fax:   513-831-1201 http://w3.one.net/~schmieg

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Yeah, but how do they look with a tux?

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 Addias also make a couple water shoes.  No one locally has them.  REI had both the Addias and Hi-Tec’s so you may want to check them out. Just a note: Canoe & Kayak reviewed the Adidas water shoes last year and described them as "slicker than snot" on wet rock.  I recently got a pair of Hi-Tec Piranhas and they are also rather slippery on wet rock. The Teva Wet Climbers (a shoe, not sandal) is somewhat stickier as it has a siped sole (lots of slits in the sole like a sailing deck shoe) 5-10 has the highest rated soles for stickyness on wet rock.

If someone is looking a pair of water shoes that *aren’t* slippery NRS makes a neopreme slip on shoe with a single velcro closure and felt soles. If you look at almost any flyfishing wading boot you’ll find that they have felt soles.  In fact, I use these water shoes for wading while I’m flyfishing more than I do for kayaking. John Fereira Ithaca, NY

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 Addias also make a couple water shoes.  No one locally has them.  REI had both the Addias and Hi-Tec’s so you may want to check them out.

Just a note: Canoe & Kayak reviewed the Adidas water shoes last year and described them as "slicker than snot" on wet rock.  I recently got a pair of Hi-Tec Piranhas and they are also rather slippery on wet rock. The Teva Wet Climbers (a shoe, not sandal) is somewhat stickier as it has a siped sole (lots of slits in the sole like a sailing deck shoe) 5-10 has the highest rated soles for stickyness on wet rock. Mike

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I’ve been looking at both the Stingrays and the Snake River’s…  At least with my feet the Snake rivers were better.  Although I could not find them in my size locally ( NE Ohio) I needed a 10 1/2.  Addias also make a couple water shoes.  No one locally has them.  REI had both the Addias and Hi-Tec’s so you may want to check them out. Corey http://www.ncweb.com/users/possum/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello,         I’m going on a 5 day trip through the Boundry Waters in September and I’m trying to decide on what kind of footwear to take. The outfitter doesn’t want Teva’s or other types of sandals or other open-toed shoes, sandals do not provide adequate ankle support for the portages that will be required. I’m thinking about just taking a beater pair of high-top tennis shoes but I like something that’ll dry a bit quicker than leather or canvas.          Campmor has a few pairs of watersports footwear that look like they’ll fit the bill for me. One pair is th Hi-Tec Stingrays and the other is the Columbia Snake River Trainer. I suppose either of these would work fine. I kind of like the Hi-Tec ones.         I really would like some opinions and ideas on what I should consider. Suggestions???? Thanks, Al

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The responses I’ve noticed haven’t commented on BW weather in Sept. It can be cold!  Not like winter (tho maybe snow) but still cold. It prolly *will* be cold 2-3 times in Sept with warm spells in between. With luck you’ll catch a warm spell.  But maybe you won’t.  So plan footwear accordingly.  You want to stay dry during the day, or (failing that) to dry quickly.  You need support on portages.  And you must have dry warm camp shoes. Sept is the best time for the BW.  Bugs & tourists are gone.  That’s when the locals come out.  Some of them will quibble about "cold", others will wholeheartedly agree to keep tourists away.  Enjoy yourself. Cecil

And it can snow in July – which it has. When we make our annual sojurn to the BWCA, we use rubber boots. I think they are 16 inches tall and cost 10 or 11 bucks. I also have a pair of GoreTex hunting boots packed away for camp use. Personally, I think it is foolish to wear sandals of any kind on a portage.                            Gary

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The responses I’ve noticed haven’t commented on BW weather in Sept.   It can be cold!  Not like winter (tho maybe snow) but still cold.   It prolly *will* be cold 2-3 times in Sept with warm spells in between.   With luck you’ll catch a warm spell.  But maybe you won’t.  So plan footwear accordingly.  You want to stay dry during the day, or (failing that) to dry quickly.  You need support on portages.  And you must have dry warm camp shoes. Sept is the best time for the BW.  Bugs & tourists are gone.  That’s when the locals come out.  Some of them will quibble about "cold", others will wholeheartedly agree to keep tourists away.  Enjoy yourself. Cecil

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On my two treks into the Boundry Waters with the BSA, we wore jungle boots _ combat boots that are made to get wet but immediately drain water.  They’re only about $40. (Don’t get the $10-$20 kind, they WILL fall apart). It made portages easier and protected our feet. You can get them from most Army surplus stores, but insist on American-made and make sure you break them in. Once we made camp, we took the boots and wet wool socks off, and put on dry socks and sneakers. Reed

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I just got a set of Tecnica Barracudas.  Mostly mesh, but better heel cups than the Columbia shoes.  A cheaper alternative is the Vasque Portage shoes, made of nylon with gum rubber soles.  Sierrra Trading post (httP;//ww.sierratradingpost.com) has them for $14.95.  Waterproof hiking boots seem a bad idea to me too, the water inside will never come out.  I wear high cut Bean booots when its cold, but mostly resign myself to wet feet.  Sandals are great for camp to let the feet dry out. — Andrew

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I just returned from a 5 day trip to Basswood Falls on 6/20.  I wore hiking boots almost the entire trip.  I managed to keep my feet dry!! But, it would have been nice to be able to walk right into the water at the beginning and at the end of the portage with the canoe and drop it into the water!!!  I also broght a pair of sandles so I could walk in the water to where the river was shallow.  (That happened at the beginning and at the end of the trip!  I was able to pull the canoe in the river and avoid two portages!!  We had aluminum canoes so avoiding carrying them was a treat!!  That was at Mudro Lake). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I first have to question the outfitter you chose as not wanting Teva’s on a BW trip.  That’s just plain crazy.  I’ve worn Teva’s into every BW trip I’ve taken and highly suggest them to anyone on such a trip.  Supposing that’s not the answer you’re looking for, Converse hi-tops work quite well. Wear them w/o socks, slop around in the water, and you should be fine.  The bottoms don’t dry out very quickly but that has never been a problem for me. On an added note, hi-tops provide little to no ankle support so, again, Teva’s are a superior choice.  A couple of companies make shoes/boots specifically for portaging.  REI offers one such pair for $75 and Sierra Trading Post offers a water-shoe for $35.  Outfitters in the Ely area, such as Piragis, also sell portage shoes.  Enjoy the BWCA and check out the wild rice pancakes at the Chocolate Moose in Ely to cap off a great trip.

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Typed:      Here’s my genius idea for primary footwear for summer that I’ve never heard anyone else try and I haven’t had a chance yet either: a pair of Gore-tex socks under a pair of Jungle Boots like the GI’s used to get in Nam

Question:

Get Dick Brown’s book "Bonefish Fly Patterns". It will be a great help to you. Good Luck!

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Hello all, can anyone suggest the flies I should use while fishing for Bonefish in the Carribbean in late June??  (Esp. the easiest ones to tie) Thanks in advance. Eric Meier

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Hello all, can anyone suggest the flies I should use while fishing for Bonefish in the Carribbean in late June??  (Esp. the easiest ones to tie) Thanks in advance. Eric Meier

Crazy Charlies are the most popular and simple patterns. I would tie pearl, gold, root beer, olive and pink. Use size mostly #4/6 in Mustad 3407 or 34007 hooks. Use #6/8 in Tiemco 800S or 811S hooks as they run a little bigger than Mustad. No eyes for Turtle grass bottoms. Bead chain eyes on some and chrome lead eyes on others for deeper sand bottoms or tide currents. Try to get a guide. You can call me at 800/4000FLY. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I am 10 years old have been fly fishing for 2 1/2 years. I would like to hear from other kids who are interested in fly fishing. Matt- North Carolina

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I am advisor to a fly fishing club at our middle school here in Bozeman.   I had our first meeting yesterday, and we had 18 students!  I did this the last two years and average 6-8 students.  I’d be interested to know if anyone else is doing anything like I am trying.  Would be interested in sharing information.  Dave Kumlien, Bozeman, MT

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(David Kumlien) writes: I am advisor to a fly fishing club at our middle school here in Bozeman. I had our first meeting yesterday, and we had 18 students!  I did this the last two years and average 6-8 students.  I’d be interested to know if anyone else is doing anything like I am trying.  Would be interested in sharing information.  Dave Kumlien, Bozeman, MT

What a great idea, Dave.  I, for one, would really like to hear of your experiences, and I may have a thought or two to throw in now and then.  By all means, keep posting! Kurt Steinbock

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Hi, I am 10 years old have been fly fishing for 2 1/2 years. I would like to hear from other kids who are interested in fly fishing. Matt- North Carolina

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