Question:

I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

There are times, like climbing, skiing, or hiking through dense brush, where having a minimalist pack is preferred, with no appendages to get snagged. Most outdoor shops sell a variety of add-on pockets which attach to the various compression straps on the pack, top, sides and back. There are also some for the hip belt and shoulder straps for quick access to water, snacks, map, compass, camera, etc., without removing the pack. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Response:

If possible add a few fanny packs to the pack and use them for storage, compression and small day packs. You might want to start using a water bladder/hose assembly instead of a bottle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

The Kelty Cloud has modular pockets that can be purchased separate.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Since some of the add-on systems are real brand specific, some people get afterkmarket pockets sewn permanently onto the packs. penny – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

I’m not a pro, but I’ve used that pack and was also frustrated by the mesh pockets, especially seeing that the compression straps go right over the pocket.  Who the heck thought up that bright idea? There is one external pocket that’s on the very top in the detachable fanny pack.  I kept small stuff in that pocket, and also used it to keep a hydration bladder.  That worked much better than fighting to get a water bottle in and out of those mesh pockets. Joel

Response:

this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm That is it! Thank you very much!

   We get some other clips at $.15 a set if we buy 2000 sets;o)    Ed Huesers

Response:

That is it! Thank you very much! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain.    Well, this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm    Ed Huesers    http://www.grandshelters.com

Response:

I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain.

   Well, this looks like what you’re talking about: http://www.duraflexbuckles.com/duraflex/page12_13/page12_13.htm    Ed Huesers    http://www.grandshelters.com

Response:

Visit your local fishing (especially fly fishing) store.  They have just what you’re looking forl  Looks like a necklace with clips for all kinds of little tools.  I wouldn’t be caught dead using one, but that’s just me.  I’m not a "purist" fly fisher anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I was thinking of something smaller and lighter. You see them on the ends of shoulder straps for all kinds of bags such as camera bags and luggage; the keychain clip in a daypack, and other stuff. They commonly snap into D rings and sometimes include a swivel. Hand loops on your pack straps have them. So the hand loops on many trekking poles. For such light duty, I had in mind something in black nylon abut 1.25 inches long. The heavy metal ones are used to clip into the links os a chain. I have a few of the keychain mini’biners but since I would clip them to a D ring or cord, they should be more bulky, heavy, and expensive than ideal. The nylon ones should be dirt cheap, half the size, and half the weight of even an mini’biner but only IF I can find some. I also camp with a BSA Troop so even if I buy a bag of 50-100, I could put them to use. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have you considered using rock climbing carabiners?  The actual "for climbing use" ones probably aren’t any lighter than the steel clips you found at the hardware store, but lots of places (REI, etc.) sell lightweight keychain carabiners.  I clip a few of those on my pack and use them to attach random stuff. Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

Have you considered using rock climbing carabiners?  The actual "for climbing use" ones probably aren’t any lighter than the steel clips you found at the hardware store, but lots of places (REI, etc.) sell lightweight keychain carabiners.  I clip a few of those on my pack and use them to attach random stuff.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I am not sure what plastic clips you are referring to.  I have an old style metal shower curtain ring on my pack for hanging wet sox, but I have used it for haning other items as well.  Wal-Mart carries them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source?

Response:

Related question. –I have been wanting to use clips rather than a pocket for small items like compass, thermometer, knife, led flashlight and similar lanyard fodder. I would like to wear one lanyard and just clip the items to it or to my pack or my belt as needed. However, I need the clips. The only ones that I can find in local hardware stores are big, heavy steel ones.:-(  I would prefer light, cheap, plastic clips like you see on commercial goods. Does anyone have a source? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently bought an REI New Star, a 2000 model, at significant savings over the usual price.  I like the pack; size, fit, durability, price…all suit me.  (Did I say I was new at this?)  But the stinking thing has no outside pockets, except for a couple useless mesh pockets, and no daisy chain. There are a few lash points, which I am using for tent poles and my sleeping pad. Is there a retail product, like an add-on compartment, that can be added to the pack.  I hate the idea of all this junk hanging off my otherwise sleek pack, but the lack of readily accessible pockets is maddening.  It took an act of olympic contortion just to pull a water bottle from the mesh pockets, and getting it back in the pocket was almost impossible without removing the pack. How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues?

Response:

I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets. The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system.

Good point – I take back my blanket condemnation of the idea.  So they’re good for fuel and other stuff, bad for water bottles. Joel

Response:

In cold temps I carry a water bottle on my pack belt in a special holder(Gregory sells these too).  When it warms up I use a hydration bag and drinking tube.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets. The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system. Good point – I take back my blanket condemnation of the idea.  So they’re good for fuel and other stuff, bad for water bottles. Joel

Response:

I have a Gregory Reality with mesh pockets that have compression straps that go over them.  I put my stove bottle and water filter in the mesh pockets.  The compression straps keep them from falling out.  I like the system. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you pros handle quick accessibliltity issues? I’m not a pro, but I’ve used that pack and was also frustrated by the mesh pockets, especially seeing that the compression straps go right over the pocket.  Who the heck thought up that bright idea? There is one external pocket that’s on the very top in the detachable fanny pack.  I kept small stuff in that pocket, and also used it to keep a hydration bladder.  That worked much better than fighting to get a water bottle in and out of those mesh pockets. Joel

Response:

Question:

I am intrigued as to why an Italian would call himself Ich Chemiker. Are you really a German water chemist living in Italy who fly fishes? Good effort on the site- you’ve done more than me in this respect! David (Actually a Brit chemical engineer (by initial qualification but not for the last 19 years!) living temporarily in Canada) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi you all! There’s a new flyfishing site, have a look:: www.fly.to/pafumi

Response:

Hi you all! There’s a new flyfishing site, have a look:: www.fly.to/pafumi

Response:

Sorry for the spamming, I made a mistake….

Response:

Hi you all! There’s a new flyfishing site, have a look:: www.fly.to/pafumi

Run that by me one more time? — Levi I have been through some terrible things in my life – some of which actually happened.  –Mark Twain

Response:

Question:

HI FELLOW  ANGLERS,                 I,AM LOOKING  FOR A LIGHT WIEGHT ROD 9-6FT TO 10-6FT  TOO TAKE LINES 6-7 ,                 I DO A LOT DRY FLY [FLYS DOWN SIZE 24-26 SO PRESENTATION IS A MUST]                 I ALSO DO A LOT NYMPH FISHING [ SUD SURFACE].                 MAIN FACTOR IS I,AM LOOKING FOR A POWER ROD THAT CAN DO ALL OF THE ABOVE                                                                                                                       CHURCHIE WEST LOTHIAN SCOTLAND…..

Response:

HI FELLOW  ANGLERS,                 I,AM LOOKING  FOR A LIGHT WIEGHT ROD 9-6FT TO 10-6FT TOO TAKE LINES 6-7 ,                 I DO A LOT DRY FLY [FLYS DOWN SIZE 24-26 SO PRESENTATION IS A MUST]                 I ALSO DO A LOT NYMPH FISHING [ SUD SURFACE].                 MAIN FACTOR IS I,AM LOOKING FOR A POWER ROD THAT CAN DO ALL OF THE ABOVE

YOU DON’T HAVE TO SHOUT. You’re not asking for much, just a lightweight 6-7wt that’s a delicate "power rod". I don’t know that such a thing exists. I have a 10′ 7wt Thomas & Thomas that will present small dries with finesse but nobody would ever call it a "power rod". Quite the opposite, actually. It has the nice slow action I’ve come to like. You may want to consider cane. It will meet all your criteria save lightweight. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

0] : HI FELLOW  ANGLERS, :                 I,AM LOOKING  FOR A LIGHT WIEGHT ROD 9-6FT TO 10-6FT  = : TOO TAKE LINES 6-7 , :                 I DO A LOT DRY FLY [FLYS DOWN SIZE 24-26 SO PRESENTATION = : IS A MUST] :                 I ALSO DO A LOT NYMPH FISHING [ SUD SURFACE]. :                 MAIN FACTOR IS I,AM LOOKING FOR A POWER ROD THAT CAN DO = : ALL OF THE ABOVE :                                                                          = :                                                                          = :                                              CHURCHIE WEST LOTHIAN = : SCOTLAND….. No Problem! Pick any two of the three things you ask for here. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

HI FELLOW  ANGLERS, I,AM LOOKING  FOR A LIGHT WIEGHT ROD 9-6FT TO 10-6FT TOO TAKE LINES 6-7 , I DO A LOT DRY FLY [FLYS DOWN SIZE 24-26 SO PRESENTATION = IS A MUST] I ALSO DO A LOT NYMPH FISHING [ SUD SURFACE]. MAIN FACTOR IS I,AM LOOKING FOR A POWER ROD THAT CAN DO = ALL OF THE ABOVE

Ian, As others have mentioned, you seem to be asking for the impossible. But my guess is that you’re asking for more line weight than you really need…. Have you even cast any of the newer Graphite IV rods, e.g. Sage SPL or St. Croix Legend Ultra?  You can get amazing power in a 4 wt. or 5 wt. rod.  And they’re extremely light, and allow pretty delicate presentation. They might solve your apparently insoluable problem. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Green River makes a dynamite rod that can probably take care or your needs. You can find them on the web or in a few high end stores. Patrick Kennedy California

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – HI FELLOW  ANGLERS, I,AM LOOKING  FOR A LIGHT WIEGHT ROD 9-6FT TO 10-6FT TOO TAKE LINES 6-7 , I DO A LOT DRY FLY [FLYS DOWN SIZE 24-26 SO PRESENTATION = IS A MUST] I ALSO DO A LOT NYMPH FISHING [ SUD SURFACE]. MAIN FACTOR IS I,AM LOOKING FOR A POWER ROD THAT CAN DO = ALL OF THE ABOVE Ian, As others have mentioned, you seem to be asking for the impossible. But my guess is that you’re asking for more line weight than you really need…. Have you even cast any of the newer Graphite IV rods, e.g. Sage SPL or St. Croix Legend Ultra?  You can get amazing power in a 4 wt. or 5 wt. rod.  And they’re extremely light, and allow pretty delicate presentation. They might solve your apparently insoluable problem. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

I’d bet my last dollar a Sage RPL 690 would do everything you want it to do. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Question:

Well, I spent about 4 years there and I found a plain small bright neon green plastic worm drove the small mouths wild. — Eric From the Grand Canyon State. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am going to Star Lake in the Adirondacks later this June.  Also will visit nearby Cranberry Lake.  Both are in the northeast corner of the Adirondacks.  I am told the most common catches are smallmouth bass and trout, with occasional rock bass as consolation. Any advice for these lakes?  How about nearly streams?  We will be both fly fishing and spinning.  What kinds of flies, lures, or live baits? Techniques? Many thanks! Michael

Response:

I am going to Star Lake in the Adirondacks later this June.  Also will visit nearby Cranberry Lake.  Both are in the northeast corner of the Adirondacks.  I am told the most common catches are smallmouth bass and trout, with occasional rock bass as consolation. Any advice for these lakes?  How about nearly streams?  We will be both fly fishing and spinning.  What kinds of flies, lures, or live baits? Techniques? Many thanks! Michael

Response:

Most of my fishing is done in the Adirondacks. I have a web site with lots of advice regarding lure selection. Check it out. Email me if you have any questions (remove the nospam in the address) Matthew Carter "Fishing with Matt" http://www.albany.net/~buzzbait/fishing/index.htm

Response:

Question:

Stick with the hardwood patches for the planks.  Ignore the loose canvas unless it is peeling off.  (As long as it is well attached along the stems and gunwales.)  Sand lightly (wet or dry) being careful not to sand into the fabric.  Paint with marine grade paint: flat, semi, or gloss … your choice.  Classic Boatworks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Check out the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association site and you’ll find all the help you can handle. Rich Briere – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books?

This book is the "bible" of wood canvas canoe repair and restoration, so don’t be afraid of it. You don’t have to be doing a major restoration to appreciate the techniques and advice that the book has to offer. As for other books, there are books and articles available from and on the WCHA website that might be of some help to you. Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs.

Don’t use metal. It’s ugly and not necessary. You can glue/screw on patches over cracked ribs as long as you don’t have too many in a row that are broken. Stain them the color of the wood and varnish over the whole area. It will work out fine.  If you decide to recanvas you may want to try a backside rib repair. This is detailed in a Wooden Canoe back issue available at the WCHA website. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job.

If the canoe leaks, remember that painting will not help much. Leaks are caused by cracked filler, not cracked paint. The paint protects the filler and if this is cracked, your options are more limited. You can try to fill the cracks with bondo or something similar, but I generally take this as an indication that the canoe needs to be recanvassed. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow?

Chemical strippers may eat right through the filler, depending on the formula used. Sanding down to the filler is fine, but be sure not to sand too deeply and expose canvas weave or it’ll leak for sure.  Paint is your choice, but I use marine enamel. Semi-gloss tends to not show imperfections in the filler as gloss does, but many people use gloss paint to advantage. I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine.

Good, although canvassing is not all that tough. There are a couple of articles and back issues of Wooden Canoe that talk about it. Jerry and Rollin’s book also details it well. You can do it yourself for about $150 in materials and an afternoon’s worth of time. Enjoy your canoe. They make great friends. -Tim — Tim Hewitt – Webmaster Wooden Canoe Heritage Association, Ltd http://www.wcha.org

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Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

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Question:

Hi Folks: The following conditions prevail in the Lamoille and Winooski Watersheds in the Greater Burlington and Stowe Regions:  Water temps are in the mid to high 60’s. Perfect I would say.  Water levels are low and clear. Bright days and cold nights have made fishing very enjoyable with the greatest activity focused on the early morning and late evening hours. Sulphurs, little yellow stones and numerous tan, black and olive caddis have been in sufficient numbers to get the trout’s attention. Cream variants have been less predictable but no less exciting.  Small beadheads of any design have been producing in the riffles mid-day.  More cool clear weather is forecasted to the weekend with a chance for boomers on Saturday and Sunday.  Great summer fishing right now.  Enjoy.  As always you are welcome to email me with specific questions.  Good fishing. And oh yeah….for the hardy souls the hex hactch is still on at select Kingdom lakes.  "You don’t know unless you go". James Ehlers Underhill, Vermont Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

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Hi Folks, Beautiful weather here in Northern Vermont…daytime temps in the 70’s and nights in the low 50’s and high 40’s.  For the Winooski and Lamoille Watersheds in the greater Burlington and Stowe areas here are the river conditions: Super Fishing! Tricos are here…size 22 and 24, and 7X tippet and hold on.  Sulphurs, Blue Quill, Isonychia, and Potamanthus are here and there.  Elk Hair Caddis as always. Water temps are low 70’s and high 60’s.  Water is low and clear as a bell. Enjoy. Always happy to answer your questions. James Ehlers Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

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Question:

Hi, Just wondered if anyone out there owns and fishes off a JonBoat..  I’ve considered buying one for the winter season to do a lot of shallow water fishing down here in South Florida.  I’m favoring a small sized boat 12′ or under, and i was hoping someone could give me there views on how these boats performed for flats/bay fishing, or just getting around for fun..   Also, if anyone has a 3Hp motor any make or model, how do u feel that performs.  I know many of them hold only like a quart of fuel, just wondered how long u can run on a quart during ideal conditions(weather).   Please email any comments, thanks!  pr

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I’ve been fishing an 11 1/2′ aluminum jon boat for years on the bonefish and redfish flats of Florida, and I love it.  I use the same boat summers up here in Maryland on the Potomac for smallmouth bass.  It’s indestructible and floats in about 5 inches of water.  With one person on board, it’s plenty stable.  I carpeted the bottom to cut down on noise and to keep the fly line from catching on the slats and ribs on the bottom. For a motor (when I use one), I prefer an electric motor (35lb thrust), which moves it along pretty well.  Most of the time I pole or row.  To be honest, I use it to get myself to the flat and then wade if possible (except up north near JAX, where the bottom is too mushy), but all in all it’s a great fishing platform. Regards, Doug

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Hi, I think a small john boat is great for spur of the moment fishing. Have used one off and on for over 30 years. Enen tho’ I now have a 17 ft. bass boat and a salt water boat I still use the jon boat once in awhile. Mine has a 6 horse Johnson and before thsat I used a 5 horse. It’s great for crabbing, floundering as well as fishing. Good Luck PresG

Response:

Hi, Just wondered if anyone out there owns and fishes off a JonBoat..  I’ve considered buying one for the winter season to do a lot of shallow water fishing down here in South Florida.  I’m favoring a small sized boat 12′ or under, and i was hoping someone could give me there views on how these boats performed for flats/bay fishing, or just getting around for fun.. Also, if anyone has a 3Hp motor any make or model, how do u feel that performs.  I know many of them hold only like a quart of fuel, just wondered how long u can run on a quart during ideal conditions(weather). Please email any comments, thanks!  pr

Have a 3 horse Yamaha on an Old Town 13 foot Discovery Sport Boat. Yamaha has given me no trouble for 4 years. Holds about a quart of pre-mix 100 to 1 ( yes, 100 to 1 ) gas and oil and runs for about 3 hours at trolling speed. Have used this rig from CT lakes all the way up to the Grand Lakes of Maine. Car tops, and is great for river launch. Boat weighs 80 pounds, motor 32 pounds . In my opinion, I’d can the jon boat and take a hard look at this combination. Neil

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Question:

My wife and I attended a 4-day Orvis flyfishing class at Clearwater House in July five years ago.  We had Orvis instructors (Dan Gracia, who posts to this group, was one) rather than the Clearwater House guides, but the "hearsay" I have since picked up from time to time has been positive.  I can attest that the accomodations are nice, the location is great, and that when we were there the food was excellent.  If you go, please tell me how it turned out.                        Dopug Larson, Glendale, CA

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I also cannot say enough about Clearwater House.  I’ve stayed there three times before and have booked two classes there for the upcoming year.  The staff and guides are excellent!  The Area is beautiful, and the house itself has a terrific "homey" feeling.  If you’re thinking of staying there … do it! Kim Woodward – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food. Thanks!  S. Brainerd

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(Sherry Brainerd) writes: If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food.

We run some of our schools at the Clearwater House and I have to tell you the place is first rate.  It’s basically a bed and breakfast type place that caters to fly fishers and serves all meals, not just breakfast.  Noel and company set entirely too good a table and the setting is really pretty – nestled in between Mt Shasta and Mt. Lassen.  Last year had a friendly raven (the bird) that would fly down to your feet and walk around with you for a while.  I reached out towards it and it tried to remove my wedding ring off of my finger with its beak.  Lot’s of wildlife such as deer, osprey, Canada geese, muskrat, otters, etc.  Good fishing is right out the back door and you can fish Hat Creek, The Pit River, Fall River, the McCloud River or float tube if you like up at Lake Manzanita.  Great spot.  All of Dick’s guides are top rate.  If you have a copy of the latest California Fly Fisher, the young lady on the cover is not quite as young as she looks.  Marishka is ~20 and went through Dick’s apprentice guide program a couple of years ago.  She still guides for him periodically and she is an accomplished fly fisher, fly tyer, and guide.  Don’t hesitate to ask about the various guides specialties as they bring a wide variety of techniques to fishing the available water.  I’ve actually stayed in the house twice in the last 5 years, and it’s a far cry from the "guides ghetto" (next to the their tackle shop) where I usually bunk.  It is the only Orvis Endorsed Lodge in California.  If you get a chance to go, GO! Don’t eat too much and watch out for that bottomless jar of homemade chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin cookies.                                                           Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food. Thanks!  S. Brainerd

Response:

If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food.

Nothing but good things to say about Dick Galland and Clearwater. I stayed there many years ago before the present arrangement (with cooking and all) but even then, thought the hospitality and advice was excellent. I see Dick occassionally when walking the path near his place while fishing the waters nearby.                 Draper, Utah Wherever you go….. There you will be

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Question:

I just purchased a fish brag camera and I used the following criteria. 1. Would focus to 2 feet (couldn’t find one for less than $200 that did. 2. Zoom to 70mm so the 2 feet macro could still zoom in on a 1lb trout. 3. Flash (manually addustable to on, off, and fill) so I could take pictures of those lunkers you catch at dusk. 4. Most importantly it needs to be small enough to fit into a water tight container. My container of choice is a sandwitch zip lock bag. The sales person thought me a little strange when I tried a bunch of cameras on my ziplock.

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  I do a lot of aggressive wading in small creeks and sometimes slip! For my money you can’t beat the 35 mm Kodak Funsaver or Fuji equivalent. At 12$, it’s no big loss if you fall in, and the pictures are excellent. I always carry one in my pack.

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 I do a lot of aggressive wading in small creeks and sometimes slip! For my money you can’t beat the 35 mm Kodak Funsaver or Fuji equivalent. At 12$, it’s no big loss if you fall in, and the pictures are excellent. I always carry one in my pack.

I carry something similar: a cheap camera with flash that cost all of $15.  Takes good pictures and if it takes a dip, well, no big deal!  Getting a water-resistant camera is great but it doesn’t help if you drop it in thirty feet of water! Brian Austin

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Al-      I read with interest your comment about you Minolta Dual 35.  It makes me wonder if it’s the camera I’ve been looking for.  After twice dunking my Nikon 35mm,  and lugging this beast with the big zoom lens, I’ve decided to get a smaller camera to take astream.  Problem is, I want something I can also use to capture photos of insects, and I wonder if your camera would focus that close….or if a close-up magnifier for the lens is available.  How close will yours focus?   Thanks for the information. John Long I haven’t found any of the <$250 cameras that focus under 2 feet

The Pentax zoom90-WR has a macro focus (1.6′-2.5′) and is water resistant. 38-90mm for normal focus 2.6′ to infinity. Has a removable remote pushbutton for group photos. Built-in flash and other good stuff. Auto-focus works great. Except when rushing to take pictures of Scotish trout streams thru the windows of a moving Britrail train and one forgets the infinity-focus-hold button. Perfectly in-focus window panes every time. <G Really not the camera’s fault. IR focus finds the closest thing including the window glass. da! Oliver (of Inverness), are you out there? Want to send me some of your photos? River runs along the tracks somewhere between Edinburgh and Inverness. Don Burns

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I think it admirable that you would want to buy an About-To-Be-Released-Fish a little parting gift to show your appreciation for a job well done.  A camera is just right!.  Make it a poloroid and he can take pictures of the spawn !  But, you better decide fast, he’s starting to dry out. Tim Walker

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I use an Olympus Infinity Twin.  Small, weatherproof, (I dropped it in the water twice and no problems,) auto everything, 35mm & 70mm, cost about $200.

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Check out the Olympus Stylus Zoom.  This is probably the most compact zoom lens point and shoot camera made.  It has a 35-70 mm lens, a sliding lens cover, and is water repellent.

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After 20 years of full time guiding.20,000+miles of whitewater driftboating,11 years of outdoor TV production and orange boxes full of slides i reccomend the Minolta Weathermatic.Most Other cameras require 2 hands for macro operation.Have you got three hands ? Use the reccomended film for great results. Good Luck & Tight Lines

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I have been waiting days for the original question to pop up before I answered this one, but it doesn’t look like it will show.        Another camera to check out is the Olympus Stylus.   It is small enough to fit in your pants pocket and it will (supposedly) survive a dunk in the water.  It has an adjustable zoom lens (30 to 70mm) and you can control the flash if you want to turn it off or force it on for back lit shots.  I think I paid about $200 for mine.  I’ve been taking it fishing the last three years and it has never given me a problem.   Rob Gregoire

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Al-      I read with interest your comment about you Minolta Dual 35.  It makes me wonder if it’s the camera I’ve been looking for.  After twice dunking my Nikon 35mm,  and lugging this beast with the big zoom lens, I’ve decided to get a smaller camera to take astream.  Problem is, I want something I can also use to capture photos of insects, and I wonder if your camera would focus that close….or if a close-up magnifier for the lens is available.  How close will yours focus?   Thanks for the information. John Long

I haven’t found any of the <$250 cameras that focus under 2 feet

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writes: Does anyone have a favorite make/model camera for those quick-shots of/for either the trout-to-be-released or wildlife that suddenly cross the stream…?  Ideally needs to hang around neck.    

I used the Minolta Weathermatic dual 35 (point and shoot with closeup lens) and hung it from my belt or from the d-ring on the back of my vest. Took it everywhere including AK and performed beautifully.  Not as much control ans my old manual SLR but great photos I use in slide shows.  When the camera was about a year and a half old the motor drive died which made the thing useless and Minolta will fix it for about as much as it costs to buy a new one.  Good while it lasted but…….                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Hi I use a Minolta Dual 35.  It has two internal lenses, has auto focus, film advance, and is water proof to 18 feet.  I’ve never taken it that deep but do push it under the water to take pictures of landed/released fish.  You can usually buy them at KMart for around $200.00.  Photo magazines have adds in the back – I bought my Minolta at Cambridge Camera in New York City for $187.00 Good Luck Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (catalog avialP

Response:

 I just bought an Olympus and am happy but I’d like to discuss the criteria for a good fishing camera that I used for the purchase. 1. Macro lens to get up close – some go to 2 ft. 2. Built in flash – I catch a lot of fish at dusk and need more light. 3. Small enough to fit into my custom waterproof bag. This is a sandwitch size ziplock bag. I also own lots of better equipment from Nikons to 4×5 field cameras. I’m finnally not too frighted to wade with my new camera.  I experimented with a cardboard one time use camera and found the pictures sharp enough for rememberance and braging to my buddies.

Response:

Hi Steve, I guide in the Keys and a carry a couple slr’s in the boat. Sometimes though  they are hard to get too. Last year I bought an Olympus 2000  to  keep in my pocket. I got some of my best pictures of the year with it.   They have a slightly larger model in the series with a longer zoom with a motor drive which is semi water proof.  Of course it’s more expensive but I do wish I  had  bought  it  more the increased  versatility. I’m tickled with the 2000 though, the light meter did some great  things for me on a couple shots. Ben

Response:

Does anyone have a favorite make/model camera for those quick-shots of/for either the trout-to-be-released or wildlife that suddenly cross the stream…?  Ideally needs to hang around neck.    

I use the Minolta Weathermatic Dual 35. It has two lenses ( 35mm and 50 mm) Auto focus and just in case it floats.

Response:

Take a look at the Canon Sure Shot A-1. i have owned many cameras, and now have 4 small 35s, and a serious canon single lens reflex.  my advice is, in small cameras, get either the canon above noted, or, for much better potential as you grow as a photographer, a nikon with zoom features. a. wayne harrison

I decided some time ago to forget about taking my nice cameras with $300 lenses, or even a $150 point and shoot on the stream. Now I leave the Nikons, Leicas, or  Contax’s (as if I have all of these!) in a nice warm dry place for out of stream fishing. I now just carry one of the Kodak Waterproof disposable cameras for the catch and release fishing. Gives me a lot of peace of mind.

Response:

Take a look at the Canon Sure Shot A-1.

i have owned many cameras, and now have 4 small 35s, and a serious canon single lens reflex.  my advice is, in small cameras, get either the canon above noted, or, for much better potential as you grow as a photographer, a nikon with zoom features. a. wayne harrison

Response:

Camera World in Portland carries the Canon A-1 SureShot for about $135.  Water resistant to about 15ft.  Not a terribly sharp lense in my estimation and auto-focus is of course SLOW (I have been using one for a year, OK, but not sharp enough for large blowups or reproduction).  My favorite was an old Fujica zone focusing, rubber coated camera.  Had a VERY sharp lense, but camera is no longer made.  Nikon used to make a sealed compact camera…no longer made.  The NIkONOS works well but is in the $500 range (used).                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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Does anyone have a favorite make/model camera for those quick-shots of/for either the trout-to-be-released or wildlife that suddenly cross the stream…?  Ideally needs to hang around neck.     please email (or post if preferred), much thanks..and tight_lines, Steve Drossel

I have a Pentax 90WR (water resistant) and love it.

Response:

Take a look at the Canon Sure Shot A-1.  It’s a rugged little point and shoot with a very good lens and automatic focusing mechanism that is much better than point-and=shoots of a few years ago.  It also has a macro lens and is waterproof to something like 15 feet, plenty deep for any stream (ha) It doesn’t have a zoom lens– which I don’t find to be a drawback for fishing, but might limit your terrestrial wildlife photos.  Sells for around $225 with a date imprinting function, less without it.  Check the prices in the back of magazines like Pop Photo for the rock-bottom low $, or go to your local store for better service and a bit more $.

Response:

Does anyone have a favorite make/model camera for those quick-shots of/for either the trout-to-be-released or wildlife that suddenly cross the stream…?  Ideally needs to hang around neck.     please email (or post if preferred), much thanks..and tight_lines, Steve Drossel

Response:

Question:

I dont mean to burst your bubble but you mention three items together that are antonyms of alaska.  Anywhere theres fish theres people.  It’s expencive.  And for most of Alaska dry flyfish is not the perfered method (usualy egg patterns of attractors) although I almost soley dryflied there all summer. But I caught more Grayling than trout and less than my buddies with egg pat. Ive guided there for the past two summers and have seen people try to take the economy route and be unhappy.         Two suggestions Rust’s flying service about $125 a day for guided         day fishing.  Rust is quite dependable.  my next and stronger suggustion         is goto or call McFee’s flyshop in Anchorage and ask for Dennis (owner)         tell him Kyle from Wilderness Place lodge sent you and he’ll give you the scoop.  Good Luck any questions feel free to contact me directly.         University of Illinois

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I dont mean to burst your bubble but you mention three items together  that are antonyms of alaska.  Anywhere theres fish theres people.  It’s expencive.  And for most of Alaska dry flyfish is not the perfered method (usualy egg  patterns of attractors) although I almost soley dryflied there all summer.  But I caught more Grayling than trout and less than my buddies with egg pat.  Ive guided there for the past two summers and have seen people try to take  the economy route and be unhappy.    Two suggestions Rust’s flying service about $125 a day for guided    day fishing.  Rust is quite dependable.  my next and stronger suggustion    is goto or call McFee’s flyshop in Anchorage and ask for Dennis (owner)    tell him Kyle from Wilderness Place lodge sent you and he’ll give you the scoop.  Good Luck any questions feel free to contact me directly.    University of Illinois

I agree that egg patterns are the best bet, but dry fly fishing in Alaska can be very rewarding.  The reason people don’t catch more fish on drys is because they just don’t try them enough.   They simply assume they will be ineffective.  Alaska is not devoid of insect life, it just takes some exploring and investigating to figure out what the fish are taking.  If you go to Alaska to catch salmon, sure, dry flies are going to be ineffective.  But, if you fish for rainbows and grayling, and you really should, then drys can be a blast!  By the way, that should be McAfee’s Fly Shop, not McFee’s.  Have fun, and catch and release!  Good fishing. -Steve  

Response:

jay) writes:

You might want to consider flying into King Salmon on Alaska Airlines and hook up with an outfitter there(sorry no names :I stayed at a flyout camp). An outfitter can set you up to float the American River, which is an oustanding remote dryfly river. It will take about 4-5 days to float the river to the mouth on Bristol Bay. Great big country and has a major bear problem( last year had major league charge from a big male who was protecting his fresh moose calf kill) .Don’t go alone! The flys I used were: Royal Wulff 12,14                                Yellow Humpy 12,14,16                                Gray Caddis-various                                 Royal Stimulator 12,14 The rainbows liked the Royal ties and the Grayling liked the the more subdued colors Adams etc.You should catch at least 100+ per day! (you must release all fish in the Bristol Bay watershed) FRANK

Response:

I am planning to try fishing in Alaska this coming june and am interested in dry fly fishing in  fairly quiet places. I would like to do this fairly inexpensively. I have about 10 days to spend. Any help would be appreciated. Keep a tight line.

Response:

I am planning to try fishing in Alaska this coming june and am interested in dry fly fishing in  fairly quiet places. I would like to do this fairly inexpensively. I have about 10 days to spend. Any help would be appreciated. Keep a tight line.

There are ways to fish Alaska fairly inexpensively after you get here. The biggest expense is the cost of an airline ticket.  Once here, the USFS has cabins they rent for $25/night on some excellent fishing systems.   What species are you specifically interested in?  Southeast Alaska has cutthroat trout, steelhead, rainbow fishing in June.  The Bristol Bay area is known for its outstanding rainbow fishing. Let me know some specifics on what your interested in and we have informational leaflets that I can send to help you out. Doug Jones

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