Question:

Check with Fish First Fly shop in Chico. 167 E 3rd St. Chico CA 95928 Tel (530) 343-8300 Fax (530) 343-8934 Their web site is www.fishfirst.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

Response:

I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

Response:

Question:

Phew. All kinds of generalities there, probably none of it of much help. But at least I didn’t skewer you ;^)

Actually, since he didn’t specify the conditions he would be fishing or his casting style, you sort of did by making him read yet another post about preferences<g. — Charlie…

Response:

I just read through this thread hoping to pick up some reasoning for what would be the virtue of a slower action rod and I have to tell you I found almost zero usefull information.  Would you guys consider starting a new group alt.love_lost.2.old.rod?

Uh uh uh. Don’t taunt the bears! Wouldn’t be prudent. Or better yet, tell me why (and where) a slow rod beats a fast rod.

I believe that’s mostly a matter of casting style and/or experience. For many folks, especially less experienced ones, slower rods telegraph their loaded point louder than fast rods do, so a slower rod can be easier to cast – or learn to cast. The faster the rod the less obvious that same loaded-point becomes. One could make a case, I suppose, that a slower rod is easier to use in tight quarters (small streams, etc) regardless of casting style or expertise. I don’t have any wicked-fast small stream rods, they’re all moderate action or even a bit slow. I do have some real telephone poles for stripers and bluefish, however (eg: 9wt IMX, 7wt RPLX) as well as a couple of moderate-action rods (eg: 9wt IM6, 7wt IM6) and for fighting wind over the ocean I like casting the faster rods – which throw a tighter loop (very useful when casting side-arm to get down under the worst of the wind). I still have a couple of glass rods but really hated fishing saltwater with them. Too damned slow, not as much backbone, and casting a wide loop side-arm can be really risky business ;^) Phew. All kinds of generalities there, probably none of it of much help. But at least I didn’t skewer you ;^) /daytripper

Response:

Aw c’mon Ken, the quality of free advice just wasn’t up to his standards.

I just don’t like whiners. I mean, I read his post hoping to find a really good borscht recipe. That damn post mentioned nothing whatsoever about borscht, but you don’t hear me whining about it. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I feel the LL is one of Sage’s best creation.  It is one of the nicest rods to cast a line with.  I have a 389-3LL and use a Stillwater taper for most of my lake fishing.  I’ve even gone as far as using a type 2 uniform sink from SA.  It actually casted fine.   My buddy has a 489 and uses all different sink rates of lake lines on it.  You will need to make subtle changes to your casting stroke in order to make up for the slower action.  What rod do you have? Thanks, — Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com win any SAGE rod! Before you buy.

Response:

I’ll register in on the love side.   I’ve always preferred the softer action of the LL series, and the 490 LL is my absolute favorite rod ever. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?   Or for that matter, anybody hate the series? Personally I love it’s medium action and can’t believe they are discontinuing them (at least that’s what I heard).  Has anyone tried casting this rod with a sink tip or a wet line?  If so I’d particularly like to hear from you. Thinking of getting new lines for this rod but want to hear some comments/suggestions from others that have tried different line combos on this rod before rushing out to waste money.  Reason why I’m hesitating is because its light weight plus medium action might make this rod a nightmare to cast with sink tips or wet lines. Thanks!

Response:

I also fall on the love side of the spectrum.  I think the LL and the RPL were the best rods Sage has made.   I currently own a SP+ which I use on the big open lakes and rivers out here in WA but I just bought a 2 pc. 3wt LL blank off of ebay for fishing the creeks and smaller waters.  I can’t wait to get it built.   Hopefully Sage will relearn the lesson that power isn’t everything and return to making these fine rods. Mike

Response:

I currently own a SP+ which I use on the big open lakes and rivers out here in WA but I just bought a 2 pc. 3wt LL blank off of ebay for fishing the creeks and smaller waters.  I can’t wait to get it built.

I saw that blank and damned near went after it myself to build my wife a rod; but I just have too many rod projects in the works for the present. (Fixing my son’s epoxy & repairing my broken 9 wt.)   I’m glad I didn’t drive the price up for you.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

I own a 9 foot 4 weight LL and love the thing. I am sick of fast action rods that stop a trout in its tracks. I also have an RPL+ 10 foot 7 weight and this is really a salmon rod. I caight a 14lb 2oz rainbow on it the other day and after a couple of minutes, the fish put its fins in the air and came quietly. Shame. I broke my big Sage in May, which is why August saw me fishing the Teifi at night for sea trout with my LL. I hooked, played and netted a fish of 5.5 lb and the fight was tremendous. So glad it wasn’t my RPL+. I have just bought a 3 piece 9 foot 6 weight SP and am dying to get out there with the thing. Softer action too, although not like the LL. The LL range is being continued, I understand, although only in a 3-piece and at a higher price. Bugger (woolly and otherwise)! Caspar – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yep, I own 3 of the LL series…….2/4/6 wts.  Love ‘em.  I would class their action more as slow to medium, than strictly medium.  My casting style (if one could call it a ’style’, more like a grenade toss) is more suited to the slower action.  And no, I don’t use sinking lines on any of them because they are just not suited for throwing weight.  Having said that, I sometimes use a short piece of sinking leader to get the fly down if fishing in current or deeper water, but it is not a comfortable thing for me to do. If I’m tossing weighted buggers or need to use a sink tip, I switch to my St Croix medium action rods.  BTW, as to lines, I use SA Mastery or AirCell Supreme WF stuff.  FWIW- Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?   Or for that matter, anybody hate the series? Personally I love it’s medium action and can’t believe they are discontinuing them (at least that’s what I heard).  Has anyone tried casting this rod with a sink tip or a wet line?  If so I’d particularly like to hear from you. Thinking of getting new lines for this rod but want to hear some comments/suggestions from others that have tried different line combos on this rod before rushing out to waste money.  Reason why I’m hesitating is because its light weight plus medium action might make this rod a nightmare to cast with sink tips or wet lines. Thanks! Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED

Response:

I have cast a LL and am seriously thinking of getting a 489.  How do you think they compare with an SP or SPl?  Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Chris Brown

Response:

Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?  

I have a 490-4 LL that I’m quite fond of. I’ve tried several DT & WF floating lines on it, but no sinking lines. What works best for me is a Wulff TT 3/4. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I own a 9 foot 4 weight LL and love the thing. I am sick of fast action rods that stop a trout in its tracks. I also have an RPL+ 10 foot 7 weight and this is really a salmon rod. I caight a 14lb 2oz rainbow on it the other day and after a couple of minutes, the fish put its fins in the air and came quietly. Shame.

[snip] Some people would say that was a good thing.

Response:

Chris, I like the SP action and use it for the most part.  I have a couple SP+’s and in the wind and for long casting, prefer them.  I fished a SPL last spring for a week and found it just too much like a noodle.  Too slow for me. Regards, Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have cast a LL and am seriously thinking of getting a 489.  How do you think they compare with an SP or SPl?  Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Chris Brown

Response:

I’ve had three LLs, one SP, one RPL and two RPs.  The LLs were always my favourites and my current 590 LL (an older graphite II model) will cast a type V sinktip with no problem.  Just have to open up the loop a bit, that’s all.  I do a lot of streamer fishing so all of my trout rods have to be able to throw sinktips as well as floating lines. Slow action doesn’t necessarily mean less power. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

The Sage 389LL was one of the finest small-stream dry fly rods ever created.  It was originally produced in graphite II, and is one of the few blanks that survived a transition to graphite III without problems or substantial reworking.   Interestingly enough, it won a FR&R Kudo as a 2 weight – the slower action allowed it to load effectively with a 2 or a 3.  I fished mine (lost in the fire, alas) with a Triangle Taper 2/3, and it was superb.   I sorely miss it.  Since the fire, I bought one of the new SPL rods to replace it, but it just isn’t quite the same…….                                         Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I currently own a SP+ which I use on the big open lakes and rivers out here in WA but I just bought a 2 pc. 3wt LL blank off of ebay for fishing the creeks and smaller waters.  I can’t wait to get it built. I saw that blank and damned near went after it myself to build my wife a rod; but I just have too many rod projects in the works for the present. (Fixing my son’s epoxy & repairing my broken 9 wt.)   I’m glad I didn’t drive the price up for you.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

I picked up a 490-4 LL blank on ebay recently (a major relief for me – I thought I’d lost that rod forever).  It was being sold by Drake Rod Co. – the lady told me that she had a couple of them in stock, and I believe that she also had a 490-3 LLB as well.  If anyone’s interested in contacting them drop me an email and I’ll see if I can scare up the contact info.                                 Michael Roegner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?   I have a 490-4 LL that I’m quite fond of. I’ve tried several DT & WF floating lines on it, but no sinking lines. What works best for me is a Wulff TT 3/4.

Response:

I got a 356 LL 2 years ago ( Yep, 5′-6") and absolutely love it for the small creeks I fish. I can cast under the canopy, cart it around in the bushes without getting hung up, and it casts up to 50′ with no problems, though it’s rare I see that much open space where I use it. I understand it was discontinued last year.         Steve

Response:

I have the 490 3LL and I absolutely adore it.  I plan to get some new lines for it soon but wasn’t sure how well it would cast heavier lines like sink tips and wet lines. After hearing from a few people that’s actually tried sink tips and full sinks, I think I will give it a try.   Afterall, I like the rod so much I want to use it for most, if not all, of my outtings, both stream and lake. Thanks for the info. Ken. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I feel the LL is one of Sage’s best creation.  It is one of the nicest rods to cast a line with.  I have a 389-3LL and use a Stillwater taper for most of my lake fishing.  I’ve even gone as far as using a type 2 uniform sink from SA.  It actually casted fine.   My buddy has a 489 and uses all different sink rates of lake lines on it.  You will need to make subtle changes to your casting stroke in order to make up for the slower action.  What rod do you have? Thanks, — Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com win any SAGE rod! Before you buy.

Response:

(Flyfis4fun) writes: I also fall on the love side of the spectrum.  I think the LL and the RPL were the best rods Sage has made.   Hopefully Sage will relearn the lesson that power isn’t everything and return to making these fine rods. Moral of the story, if you find a rod you love, buy at least three of them cause sooner or later they ain’t gonna make em no more.

Oh Mister Gear Whore, you’re my HERO!

Response:

(Flyfis4fun) writes: I also fall on the love side of the spectrum.  I think the LL and the RPL were the best rods Sage has made.  

{snip} Hopefully Sage will relearn the lesson that power isn’t everything and return to making these fine rods.

Moral of the story, if you find a rod you love, buy at least three of them cause sooner or later they ain’t gonna make em no more. Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

I just read through this thread hoping to pick up some reasoning for what would be the virtue of a slower action rod and I have to tell you I found almost zero usefull information.  Would you guys consider starting a new group alt.love_lost.2.old.rod?  Or better yet, tell me why (and where) a slow rod beats a fast rod. Mike

Response:

I just read through this thread hoping to pick up some reasoning for what would be the virtue of a slower action rod and I have to tell you I found almost zero usefull information.  Would you guys consider starting a new group alt.love_lost.2.old.rod?  Or better yet, tell me why (and where) a slow rod beats a fast rod. Mike

How in the hell can you read a newsgroup with your head stuck up your ass like that ? — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I just read through this thread hoping to pick up some reasoning for what would be the virtue of a slower action rod and I have to tell you I found almost zero usefull information.  Would you guys consider starting a new group alt.love_lost.2.old.rod?  Or better yet, tell me why (and where) a slow rod beats a fast rod. Mike How in the hell can you read a newsgroup with your head stuck up your ass like that ?

Aw c’mon Ken, the quality of free advice just wasn’t up to his standards. What do you expect him to do, an internet search for articles or something? I mean, after all his vast contributions it seems he deserves better than this<g. — Charlie…

Response:

I just read through this thread hoping to pick up some reasoning for what would be the virtue of a slower action rod and I have to tell you I found almost zero usefull information.  Would you guys consider starting a new group alt.love_lost.2.old.rod?  Or better yet, tell me why (and where) a slow rod beats a fast rod. Mike

Let me take a minute here to wipe the sarcasm off your post, then I’ll try and answer your question.  First off, It isn’t a case of slow vs. fast, rather that each has it’s own characteristics that you can exploit in different situations. The biggest determinant is personal preference; some people love ‘em others don’t.  For the rest of the list of characteristics, these are generalizations and there are plenty of exceptions.  For sake of argument, assume that I’m comparing a slow Orvis Superfine 5 wt, to a fast Sage RPL+ 5 wt. Slow rods (Orvis Superfine) Loads easily with only a little line Short cast, mend and roll cast well Tend to be tolerant of under and over-lining Less fatiguing over a long day of fishing More delicate presentation Fast rods (Sage RPL+) Handles the wind better Stiff butt section gives better lifting power Easier to cast long Tighter loop control Pinpoint accuracy is easier But having said all of that, a good caster can be pinpoint accurate and handle the wind with a Superfine, or lay down a delicate cast with an RPL+ so we end up back with personal preference.   But there’s another determinant that you should keep in mind.  Some rods have a progressive action while others have more radical action. By this I mean that a progressive rod will simply work further down into the butt, the longer you cast and the more power you apply.  The relationship between power and distance on the one hand and how far the rod works into the butt on the other, is more or less linear. Casting a progressive rod doesn’t really take a change of casting stroke to cast long; merely lengthen the stroke a bit and apply a little more power.  Radical actions change between tip and butt so you may have a soft tip married to a stiff butt that requires a change in your casting stroke when casting long.  Radical actions try to combine the merits of slow and fast action rods in one but you have to pay a price by altering your casting stroke to accomondate the transition between slow tip and fast butt as the casting distance lengthens. Here’s a comparison – if you took an old Sage RPL 8 wt. and a Loomis GL3 Megataper 8/9 wt., and deflection tested them with identical weights, you may find that both delfected about the same amount so they would both be considered fast.  But the Sage would be bending well into the butt while the Loomis would accomodate most of the bending in the tip. So when casting, you’d find the Loomis will short cast easier but the Sage would be easier to cast over the full limits of its range.  The Loomis action was intended for flats fishing where you’d pick up a short bit of line with the tip, load quickly then bang out 60′-70′ with the butt, all in one casting motion.  The RPL would probably need one false cast to do the same. Next time don’t be so sarcastic and I won’t make you read as much.  :) Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Yep, I own 3 of the LL series…….2/4/6 wts.  Love ‘em.  I would class their action more as slow to medium, than strictly medium.  My casting style (if one could call it a ’style’, more like a grenade toss) is more suited to the slower action.  And no, I don’t use sinking lines on any of them because they are just not suited for throwing weight.  Having said that, I sometimes use a short piece of sinking leader to get the fly down if fishing in current or deeper water, but it is not a comfortable thing for me to do.  If I’m tossing weighted buggers or need to use a sink tip, I switch to my St Croix medium action rods.  BTW, as to lines, I use SA Mastery or AirCell Supreme WF stuff.  FWIW- Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?   Or for that matter, anybody hate the series? Personally I love it’s medium action and can’t believe they are discontinuing them (at least that’s what I heard).  Has anyone tried casting this rod with a sink tip or a wet line?  If so I’d particularly like to hear from you. Thinking of getting new lines for this rod but want to hear some comments/suggestions from others that have tried different line combos on this rod before rushing out to waste money.  Reason why I’m hesitating is because its light weight plus medium action might make this rod a nightmare to cast with sink tips or wet lines. Thanks!

Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED

Response:

Any fans of the Sage Light Line Series out there?   Or for that matter, anybody hate the series? Personally I love it’s medium action and can’t believe they are discontinuing them (at least that’s what I heard).  Has anyone tried casting this rod with a sink tip or a wet line?  If so I’d particularly like to hear from you. Thinking of getting new lines for this rod but want to hear some comments/suggestions from others that have tried different line combos on this rod before rushing out to waste money.  Reason why I’m hesitating is because its light weight plus medium action might make this rod a nightmare to cast with sink tips or wet lines. Thanks!

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – % % % % % I don’t know, but if this guy % is for real……he scares me!!!! % % This is the strait scoop.  Theres % nothing to be scared of unless your a % smartmouth like that stooge guy Moe. % % % Me, too!  Strangely, I’m reminded % of the thread from late % Summer/early Fall that dealt % with stories of sabotage, flattened % tires and other acts against fisher % people…  hmmmmmmmmmmmmm! % % I dont know nothin about that % stuff.  I just started posting % here.   I know % about guys who got their tires % slashed when they fished here in NY on them % Indian reservations.   You gotta % watch out for some of them jamokes when %they % go on the warpath.  I could tell % you stories but I dont got the time now. %The % little lady is already bitchin % cause Im running the computer instead of %helping % with her dishes. % % MEOW!!!! % % Tony G. % % % -tran % Oakland, CA % % % % % % % % THIS POSTED IN ALT.FAN.KARL-MALDEN.NOSE, %ALT.ALIEN.VAMPIRE.FLONK.FLONK.FLONK, % REC.OUTDOORS.FISHING.FLY  REC.OUTDOORS % FISHING.BASS, ALT.FISHING % % BOYCOTT THE COLEMAN STORE FOR CENSHORSHIP % www.rochesterweb.com/colemans % a.f.k-m.n.n (newbie)number of 2. % THIS POSTED IN ALT.FAN.KARL-MALDEN.NOSE, %ALT.ALIEN.VAMPIRE.FLONK.FLONK.FLONK, % REC.OUTDOORS.FISHING.FLY % REC.OUTDOORS FISHING.BASS, ALT.FISHING % % BOYCOTT THE COLEMAN STORE FOR CENSHORSHIP % www.rochesterweb.com/colemans % a.f.k-m.n.n (newbie)number of 2. % %PROBLEM THE FIRST: Adding "Subject" %to the subject header %is stupid and redundant and %fucks up the way that many %newsreaders, including Mozilla %and Agent, display threads. % %PROBLEM THE SECOND: You did not %x-post this to AFKMN, or %for that matter anywhere else, %and especially not any of %the groups that you list. In %fact, all of the people you %replied too will likely never %see your posts for this %reason. (You will note that %this has been corrected, %and I even added alt.flame %to the headers, because I %felt like flaming a newbie %anyway. You’re welcome.) % %PROBLEM THE THIRD: We (TINW) %do not issue "newbie %numbers". I don’t know who %told you that, and whoever %it is is probably going to be %really pissed that I ruined %the joke, but that’s the truth. % %PROBLEM THE FOURTH: Your grammar sucks. % %PROBLEM THE FIFTH: You make no %attempt at making anything %even vaguely resembling UPA. %This of course makes me %wonder why you are here in %the first place, unless of %course you are one of those %stupid newbie me-tooers that %have been plaguing us recently. %Which is in fact very %likely. % %PROBLEM THE SIXTH: You posted %your sig twice. Way to %go, dipshit. % %PROBLEM THE SEVENTH: You suck. % %CONCLUSION: I’d plonk you, but %I’m actually vaguely %interested as to how you react to this. % %– %mhm37×4                   crisis at quackquack dot com % %"They call them ‘bouncing %baby boys’, but they don’t really %bounce. They just sort of go ‘plop’." % %      -Bruce McCulloch % %Mr. Crisis; % %I dont got a lot of time to post %this morning.  I got up late and I gotta open %the shop up for the boys in a few minutes. % %I wrote Mr. Crisis cause I dont know %if your a guy or a girl from your name but %Im guessing your a guy.   If Im wrong %I figger you’ll let me know. % %I know Im a newbie and I figger %like most places this is some kind of %initation.  Im cool with that.  So %Im not gonna get insulting back at you %because that probably wouldnt be %the Meow way and Im trying to be a good Meower %now.  I hope I pass the initation. % %Ive been reading the Nose for weeks %now and I dont remeber seeing too much from %you before.  Your probably one of %them lower rankin Meowers that they use for %the initations.  Your not one of the %big time Meowers like Medcial Catastrophy. % Thats ok because you still rank higher %than me.  Its like us guys at the %volunteer fire dept all got different ranks. % %It dont always got anything to do %with how long you been somewhere neither.   I %been with the fire dept for 12 years %now but I take orders from the guy whose %Captain even though hes only been there %6 years and Im bigger than he is and I %could kick his behind if I wanted to. %   I figger its somethin like that. % %Im doing good as a mewoer so far. %Ive got all kinds of guys pissed off in all %them fishin groups and there talking %about ratting on me to compuserv and me %losing my account with compuserv. %Dont you people call that netpolice?  They %dont want me posting there because %they dont want to here nothing bad about the %fishing and the guys lifting and %snaggin the fish all the tiem. % %Before I go I wanted to talk about %some of them problems you mentioned.  Thanks %for posting to all those groups all %at once for me.   With this compuserv crap %I cant crosspost nothin.   The reason %for stuff being in my posts twice is %because Ive been copying and then %pasting all these posts to new posts and then %posting to each group individually. %It sure takes a lot of time and thats why %I dont have a lot of time to respond today. % %As far as them newbie numbers I got. %I got 3133T from Medical Catastrophy and %the other one I got from Scott Johnson. %I dont know what the Meow policy is on %them numbers but I figger that Medical % Catastrophy knows what hes talkin about. % Youll have to take it up with him. %Hes like your boss right? % %PS  Whats UPA?   I cant talk intelligent %about it if I dont know what it is. % %PPS   I know my writing sucks but %its better than it used to be.  Im trying but %its hard.  Its always been hard.   The %penguins were always making me stay %after school as a kid at the Catholic %school there.  I want to be a writer %though so I can write good stuff %about the storys my dad used to tell me about %WW2 and Toe Joe and Hero Hito. % %Ill see ya.  Thanks again. % %MEOW!!!!! % %Tony G.  3133T This troll.  It is simply too obvious. I will not respond to it. hey toneyg im liek teh lowest rankeing dued here next to loerd corkscrewbutt so yuo can litsen to me but be suer not to copey anytheing i do or respeong to me or yuoll be immeddieatetly gieven a vrey low mewo rank henvieng said thet i hace to respecteufleley disagree weth teh

Question:

Going to fish the Upper Kern River (between Kernville and Johnsondale) in California over Thanksgiving.  I have never fished this water before and would appreciate any suggestions regarding fly patterns and fishing locations. Thanks in advance, Kirk

Response:

Kirk, Every Thanksgiving I go over the hill and through the woods to my Grandmother’s house in Lake Isabella.  And I always try to do a little fishing on the Kern while I’m there.  I find it to be pretty tough fishing at that time of year and I have yet to discover what pattern works and what the best place to fish is in the section of the river you’ll be fishing. There’s a fly shop in Kernville where the road crossing the river T’s into north/south route that parallels the river on its eastern side.  You might try dropping in there for info. Generally, I have had better luck by hiking in a couple miles above the Johnsondale bridge and working my way upstream from there.  You might try a dry they call the "Kern Special" in the store I mentioned above.  It’s basically a royal wulff but with a green waist instead of a red one. —                                                       -dnc- KIRK BANNERMAN wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Going to fish the Upper Kern River (between Kernville and Johnsondale) in California over Thanksgiving.  …

Response:

what a co-inky-dink! California FlyFisher (Oct 98) has an article on this stretch of water! Might want to pick up a copy B4U go. Larry #:)#

Response:

Question:

It is a big state, what area is she in? — Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want to give a friend of mine fly fishing lessons for her birthday She lives in California but would probably also travel out of state Any suggestions Thanks for the help Spot247

Response:

Want to give a friend of mine fly fishing lessons for her birthday She lives in California but would probably also travel out of state Any suggestions Thanks for the help Spot247

Take a look at http://www.flyline.com/ MichaelSmith

Response:

Question:

<snip If you guys would have me believing that, I could also walk on water.  Not so.

Hold on George, you are destroying perceptions I had here.  I thought that if I rubbed gink on the felt of my wading boots, I could walk on water 8^) Bruce….

Response:

<snip If you guys would have me believing that, I could also walk on water.  Not so. Hold on George, you are destroying perceptions I had here.  I thought that if I rubbed gink on the felt of my wading boots, I could walk on water 8^) Bruce….

thinking clearly. I used to have two fishing hats.  The guys bought the one that said, ‘Gink Keeps It Up’ . . . while the gals bought the T-Shirts that said; "Xink Keeps it Down!" Take care Bruce. George

Response:

I tying a bunch of dries right now and use Gink at the stream with good results. After the discussion about sprays and such I was wondering if it was a good idea to treat my flies with Gink now so they will be ready out of the box on the stream. How about treating the materials before tying?

Response:

I tying a bunch of dries right now and use Gink at the stream with good results. After the discussion about sprays and such I was wondering if it was a good idea to treat my flies with Gink now so they will be ready out of the box on the stream. How about treating the materials before tying?

I prefer to treat my dries immediately after tying. Some writers have described using gink and simialr dressings as a ‘dubbing wax’ but I’m unaware of anyone  applying floatants to materials before tying the fly. Ralph H

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tying a bunch of dries right now and use Gink at the stream with good results. After the discussion about sprays and such I was wondering if it was a good idea to treat my flies with Gink now so they will be ready out of the box on the stream. How about treating the materials before tying? I prefer to treat my dries immediately after tying. Some writers have described using gink and simialr dressings as a ‘dubbing wax’ but I’m unaware of anyone  applying floatants to materials before tying the fly. Ralph H

DEAR RALPH:  YOUR QUESTIONS are good ones.   First, Gink is not used as a dubbing wax and no, you don’t want to pre-treat your flies before you store them in your fly tying box.  Dress your flies astream. HOWEVER!  (Let us use a ‘Light Cahill’ Dry Fly as an example).  You pick one up astream and you note it and its color.  You might even take a picture of it.  Now its time to tie the fly . . . to match the hatch. If you pick a yellow that matches the fly with ‘a dry’ material, it will be lighter than when it gets wet.  As a test, you want to take a little GINK and see how much darker that dry yellow will become IF and WHEN it becomes WET.  You, more likely than not will choose a lighter shade of yellow that will darken to the correct shade AFTER you get to your fishing hole. Understand? This is one of the neater features of using GINK AT the Fly Tying Table.  Just use it as a test for each shade of fly you’re going to tie and use it without exception for every fly pattern you’ll tie in your fishing life.  It is THAT important. Hope this hint increases your ‘Matching the Hatch’ stategies. Sincerely, George Gehrke (Gink Keeps It Up!)

Response:

I use Nufly coat on my newly tied flies, and it works great. I think it must be like scotch guard, which I intend to try also. You must apply it to newly tied or purchased flies which have not been Gink’d yet, or else it doesn’t work as good. I also buy Albolene at the drug store ( it is used as a make-up remover cream) for about 5 bucks a quart to refill my floatant bottles. Learned that from Art Lee’s book "Fly fishing for trout on rivers and streams". It works as good as any floatant. Best is probably Orvis "Superfloat", it dries the flies and treats them with one application.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tying a bunch of dries right now and use Gink at the stream with good results. After the discussion about sprays and such I was wondering if it was a good idea to treat my flies with Gink now so they will be ready out of the box on the stream. How about treating the materials before tying? I prefer to treat my dries immediately after tying. Some writers have described using gink and simialr dressings as a ‘dubbing wax’ but I’m unaware of anyone  applying floatants to materials before tying the fly. Ralph H DEAR RALPH:  YOUR QUESTIONS are good ones.   First, Gink is not used as a dubbing wax and no, you don’t want to pre-treat your flies before you store them in your fly tying box.  Dress your flies astream. HOWEVER!  (Let us use a ‘Light Cahill’ Dry Fly as an example).  You pick one up astream and you note it and its color.  You might even take a picture of it.  Now its time to tie the fly . . . to match the hatch. If you pick a yellow that matches the fly with ‘a dry’ material, it will be lighter than when it gets wet.  As a test, you want to take a little GINK and see how much darker that dry yellow will become IF and WHEN it becomes WET.  You, more likely than not will choose a lighter shade of yellow that will darken to the correct shade AFTER you get to your fishing hole. Understand? This is one of the neater features of using GINK AT the Fly Tying Table.  Just use it as a test for each shade of fly you’re going to tie and use it without exception for every fly pattern you’ll tie in your fishing life.  It is THAT important. Hope this hint increases your ‘Matching the Hatch’ stategies. Sincerely, George Gehrke (Gink Keeps It Up!)

Understand! Ralph H

Response:

George, Thanks for the match the hatch info.  This sounds like excellent advice, and I can’t wait to try it this spring. Vince

Response:

First, Gink is not used as a dubbing wax and no, you don’t want to pre-treat your flies before you store them in your fly tying box.  Dress your flies astream.

Why not? What is the reasoning behind this? Thanks, Jack – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

First, Gink is not used as a dubbing wax and no, you don’t want to pre-treat your flies before you store them in your fly tying box.  Dress your flies astream. Why not? What is the reasoning behind this?

Perhaps because George would rather you bought his World Famous/Can’t Be Beat/Patent Pending Miracle Dubbing Wax instead? ;^)

Response:

First, Gink is not used as a dubbing wax and no, you don’t want to pre-treat your flies before you store them in your fly tying box.  Dress your flies astream. Why not? What is the reasoning behind this? Perhaps because George would rather you bought his World Famous/Can’t Be Beat/Patent Pending Miracle Dubbing Wax instead? ;^)

Its hard being great and humble at the same time.  Yah, sure.  If you guys would have me believing that, I could also walk on water.  Not so. Seriously, GINK is not a dubbing wax.  It is not thick enough to grab dubbing and  help spin it around a fine thread.  And, since Fly-Maker’s Wax IS designed to do just that with the same, wonderful, put a smile on your face, finger sticking good, a little dab will do you . . . efficency, why not go for the whole Enchalata? Sincerely, George Gehrke Mr. Dubbs?

Response:

Question:

For those on  a limited budget, one approach is to buy a top grizzly neck and then buy some waterproof artist pens and color individual hackles as needed. Keeps down your early investment costs. Hope this helps. Dick Hubbard

Response:

Being new to tying,I need some good advise as to which colors and types of hackle to invest in for dries, nymphs, and wets.

Hi, The four most popular colors in our area (CA) are as follows: 1. Brown 2. Grizzly 3. Dun 4. Creme Much has been said in favor of the beautiful genetic saddle hackles we have available today. I must agree they are wonderful to tie with. They do have one disadvantage though – there is a limited range of sizes present on any one saddle. For versatility, a good quality cape still has the edge.  I hope this helps.   Alan.   Alan Barnard   Kiene’s Fly Shop   Sacramento, Ca.   WWW Fly Tyer   http://www.ns.net/~barnard

Response:

(Richard Hubbard) writes: For those on  a limited budget, one approach is to buy a top grizzly neck and then buy some waterproof artist pens and color individual hackles as needed.

Been there, done that, Pantone markers work real well.  Lay them on a piece of paper towel to help with absorbancy and protect your table.                                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Great idea Dan! I’ve done this to my hopper and caddis patterns to get some contrast.   Never thought about "pantoning" hackles" especially when you’re on the road.  It’s alot easier to carry some markers than our valuable hackles. Thanks! +Mike V.

Response:

Question:

Hey all you whaco thread spinners, listen up.  Tired of all the crap floating around in this news group? Well so am I!   Lets begin the FlyTiers Corner.  It will be dedicated to those of us who are equally as enthused, maybe more, about our tying as our fishing.   It appears that a Fly Tying NG is not the answer at this time.  There should be enough interest to make FTC a success. One really great thing about the angling aspect of this sport is the willingness of most participants to share their knowledge and skills.  I find that to be more so in the tying end. Let’s give it a whack and see what happens.  Share your patterns, tips, techniques, sources (maybe) and ideas with the rest of us fanatic tyers. YOU WILL NEED TO GIVE TO RECEIVE. Hi-Vis Wing Material, Manufacturer – L&L Products – I first saw this stuff in National Feather Craft catalog several years and sent for a few bags. It is available in just about every imaginable color but I find that most of my work is with white, light dun and med. dun.  I tie hundreds of dz of parachutes and mayfly spinners per year and this material wonderful.  It is very light in weight, holds its color, has just the right stiffness, and is very visible.  Try it on a Adams Para and you will never go back to cafl body. Yippi tie one on, AuSable1

Response:

Let’s give it a whack and see what happens.  Share your patterns, tips, techniques, sources (maybe) and ideas with the rest of us fanatic tyers. YOU WILL NEED TO GIVE TO RECEIVE.

OK. I have created a website for flytyers entitled "WWW Fly Tyer". It is not fully finished, but I feel there is enough content there to at least warrant a look. Check back as it will continue to improve from here. http://www.ns.net/~barnard Enjoy…Alan. PS – Don’t forget to sign the guestbook!   Alan Barnard   Kiene’s Fly Shop   Sacramento, Ca.   WWW Fly Tyer:   http://www.ns.net/~barnard

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all you whaco thread spinners, listen up.  Tired of all the crap floating around in this news group? Well so am I!   Lets begin the FlyTiers Corner.  It will be dedicated to those of us who are equally as enthused, maybe more, about our tying as our fishing.   It appears that a Fly Tying NG is not the answer at this time.  There should be enough interest to make FTC a success. One really great thing about the angling aspect of this sport is the willingness of most participants to share their knowledge and skills.  I find that to be more so in the tying end. Let’s give it a whack and see what happens.  Share your patterns, tips, techniques, sources (maybe) and ideas with the rest of us fanatic tyers. YOU WILL NEED TO GIVE TO RECEIVE. Hi-Vis Wing Material, Manufacturer – L&L Products – I first saw this stuff in National Feather Craft catalog several years and sent for a few bags. It is available in just about every imaginable color but I find that most of my work is with white, light dun and med. dun.  I tie hundreds of dz of parachutes and mayfly spinners per year and this material wonderful.  It is very light in weight, holds its color, has just the right stiffness, and is very visible.  Try it on a Adams Para and you will never go back to cafl body. Yippi tie one on, AuSable1

Shut-up, form your new group & get out Life’s a fish, then you fry…..                      …     .—.     _…                  (  _. _.-’                   ____          ~~’                       …-’

Question:

– Thanks, Dell Killian, Code 471350D       Phone:  619-939-2372 Naval Air Warfare Center         FAX:    619-939-8293 China Lake, CA 93555-6001

Response:

writes: I have read of good fishing on Salmon Falls Creek, which          flows into Idaho near Jackpot. Browns and rainbows on          the upper stretches. I’ve been by it numerous times, but          never fished it. Looked good though …..

Bob, Is this the stream that runs along side of the road?  It always looked to warm to hold trout, unless you are talking about bass. Ernie Harrison

Response:

 (Bob Evans) writes: I have read of good fishing on Salmon Falls Creek, which          flows into Idaho near Jackpot. Browns and rainbows on          the upper stretches. I’ve been by it numerous times, but          never fished it. Looked good though ….. Bob, Is this the stream that runs along side of the road?  It always looked to warm to hold trout, unless you are talking about bass. Ernie Harrison

A Couple of years ago I was in Twin Falls on biz and Id Fish and Game had just dumped "excess" hatchery steelhead into Salmon Falls Crk and locals were busy.  Seemed like a rather strange recycling operation.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

Response:

: Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, : 702-753-JIMS : Jim, this seems an awful lot like an ad.   Either give us some information : rather than a teaser, or stay the hell out of our faces.  Thanks. And please…be honest.  Forty fish days with an 18" average?  I guess the Henry’s Fork reputation is overdone.  The real water is in the deserts of N. Nevada. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    |  These University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    |  opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. |  are mine.

Response:

Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, 702-753-JIMS

Jim, this seems an awful lot like an ad.   Either give us some information rather than a teaser, or stay the hell out of our faces.  Thanks. John

Response:

Yes, there is fishing in Northern Nevada!  How does 40 fish days with an 18 inch average sound to you? This is on Public waters.  So many travel through here to stand shoulder to shoulder on the northern Rocky waters only to have a few drift boats cross their lines when they could have a couple of miles of stream to themselves here…..   Most of the fishing is subsurface–nymphs, buggers, leaches, wooleys, etc., but there is some dry fishing, especially in the smaller high creeks and lakes. There is a wide variety of fishing from bellyboating for bass and lunker trout to wading small creeks for wild brookies or even native Lahontan Cutthroat Trout..  Come see us–the fall fishing is great!  Jim Shepherd, NV Jim’s, 702-753-JIMS

Response:

Question:

I’m so new to this I have no info to trade, I live in Castle Rock, and I still think Deckers is great? Anyway- like you I am interested in knowing some of the spots other people prefer so please keep this posting going, Of all the Fly Fishers I know, few are into computers, and of those who do both only a few will be able to go on the same day as me, so I’m not worried about crowds forming. Mike Peters —- Fishing, Camping, MWC, Home office, Colorado, Micrographics, Computers, Electronics, TV/VCR/Audio repair.

Response:

I’m interested in fly fishing in Colorado in some of the more out of the way streams and mountain lakes. Places that require a 5 to 10 mile hike .These places are safe from the mob because they are too hard to get to. Anybody out there have any secret places near Vail they want to talk

about About a month ago -1st of Feb – I went fly fishing out of Avon (Beaver Creek) on the Lower and Upper Eagle River, in and out of Vail.  There’s a new shop, Fly Fishing Outfitters, in Avon.  Owner is Bill Perry and guide is Pat Moore.  Beautiful scenery, but not the hike you describe.  Pat Moore is very helpful as a guide, if that’s what you’re looking for.  Have fun! Pat Ottinger

Response:

: I’m interested in fly fishing in Colorado in some of the more out of the : way streams and mountain lakes. Places that require a 5 to 10 mile hike : .These places are safe from the mob because they are too hard to get to. : Anybody out there have any secret places near Vail they want to talk : about I’d show you, but then I’d have to kill you. ;{) Tim Walker

Response:

I’m interested in fly fishing in Colorado in some of the more out of the way streams and mountain lakes. Places that require a 5 to 10 mile hike .These places are safe from the mob because they are too hard to get to. Anybody out there have any secret places near Vail they want to talk about —like how is Grizzly Creek.

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