Question:

New flyline review:  the 555 5 weight double taper

I thought you were a Dorber man. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

You have to make sure you seal that fly line before you use it.  The core can take on water and sink the line like that if you are not careful.  I had the same problem and just hung the line out to dry for a few days and then sealed the end with some Aquaseal.

Hmmm, good "tip"  (get it?)  I’m surprised they don’t seal it off at the factory!

Response:

Hmmm, good "tip"  (get it?)  I’m surprised they don’t seal it off at the factory!

You must be much better at tying knots than I am.  I mean if you can tie a nail knot or any other knot used for connecting a leader to a fly line and not have any tag left over to trim……  ;-) — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

Response:

New flyline review:  the 555 5 weight double taper seemed to cast and shoot great.  Roll casting is a breeze, even for a goofball caster like me. But the tip sinks like any other line, in fact probably worse. You have to make sure you seal that fly line before you use it.  The core can take on water and sink the line like that if you are not careful.  I had the same problem and just hung the line out to dry for a few days and then sealed the end with some Aquaseal.  

BTW, Don’t use the 555 line in cold weather or on a cold water tailwater.  The line holds memory like no other.  I’ve owned a number of other lines including my favorites, RIO, and have never had the problems with a line like my new 555.  From the sinking tip to the fly line memory, to the horrible customer support from Cortland.  No more cortland lines for this guy. — I fly fish so therefore I am.

Response:

BTW, Don’t use the 555 line in cold weather or on a cold water tailwater.  The line holds memory like no other

I didn’t notice any memory problems at all.  The line was fine except for the sinking tip.  And the San Juan is about 44 degrees. Cortland told me to send it back and they’d replace it immediately. I’m also surprised that Cortland doesn’t recommend sealing the end of the line. bruce h

Response:

BTW, Don’t use the 555 line in cold weather or on a cold water tailwater.  The line holds memory like no other I didn’t notice any memory problems at all.  The line was fine except for the sinking tip.  And the San Juan is about 44 degrees. Cortland told me to send it back and they’d replace it immediately.

Interesting.  The email told me to continually stretch it out every day before use and even during the day if necessary!  It was a free fly line so I didn’t really press the issue.  Based upon all my problems with the line and I have read others report similar problems on other fly fishing boards, I think they have some problems with the line or at least with the production.  Even the shop who provided the free lines for a fly swap, believes that something is wrong with the lines! I’m also surprised that Cortland doesn’t recommend sealing the end of the line.

This is such BS.  Why in the heck do you buy a new fly line when you need to prep the thing with Zap a Gap or similar?  Arghhhhh…. — I fly fish so therefore I am.

Response:

My appointment at 8 am in Santa Fe went quickly and since a flyshop was nearby and it was still early I drove by.  They were open.  That flyshop is excellent.  It’s one of those shops where all the employees and the owners fish a lot and want you to have success.  They’re also real experts on the Rio Grande, which I haven’t fished often.  http://www.highdesertangler.com The smoke from two fires in the Pecos got my attention on the drive from Santa Fe to Taos, where I had another appointment at 11:30.  The Pecos is on the east side of the highway and eventually the road rejoins the Rio Grande, which is on the west side of the highway.  In Espanola a very well equipped lowrider made a fast left at an intersection in front of me.  With his hydraulics he lifted just the inside front wheel up off the road.  If you can imagine the effect – it looked like the Monte Carlo was going to roll, but alas, they just drove away laughing.  Don’t let anyone kid you, and with all due respect to SoCal, but Espanola NM is the birthplace and home of the world’s best lowriders. Since I had two and a half hours to make a one hour drive and the Orilla Verde State Park appeared on my left, of course I had to get out and fish on my way to Taos. New flyline review:  the 555 5 weight double taper seemed to cast and shoot great.  Roll casting is a breeze, even for a goofball caster like me. But the tip sinks like any other line, in fact probably worse. It was early, the only bugs around were tiny midges, and the river is as low as ever in any season.  The huge caddis hatch had apparently come and gone, but armed with the advice from High Desert, my plan was to fish little hairwing peacock caddis and parachute adams and see how that went.  After a little prospecting and no success, including adding a dropper, I switched to two nymphs, a small pt and a sparkle pupa (good advice from the flyshop) and I caught three large chubs, two small trout and a large sucker that was pretty cool.  After my appointment the hiking and scenery were great, but the wind howled and it never got cool enough to get the fish going, although I got a nice brown in really fast water with a stimulator.  Fished until dark and bushwhacked back to my truck.  Got home about midnight. The San Juan was real fun.  My friend was home from Maine and hadn’t fished there in a long time.  Hot sunny, not too crowded.  We fished Tuesday evening and all day Wednesday.  This fish is not great but there aren’t that many browns way upstream in the San Juan: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/web/BruceBrown2.jpg And here’s a way to take a picture of a nice double when there’s only two of you:  http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/web/TwoFishNets.jpg Got home around 1 AM. Thanks to RW for letting me mooch his webspace. bruce h

Response:

<snipped New flyline review:  the 555 5 weight double taper seemed to cast and shoot great.  Roll casting is a breeze, even for a goofball caster like me. But the tip sinks like any other line, in fact probably worse.

You have to make sure you seal that fly line before you use it.  The core can take on water and sink the line like that if you are not careful.  I had the same problem and just hung the line out to dry for a few days and then sealed the end with some Aquaseal.   http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/web/BruceBrown2.jpg And here’s a way to take a picture of a nice double when there’s only two of you:  http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/web/TwoFishNets.jpg

Nice pics Bruiser! — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I  f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn

Several points to ponder: Get Garcia’s book on graphite rodbuilding. tons of good info there, especially if you’ll be turning the rod by hand. also: Instead of 5 minute epoxy for the reel seat, etc, go for something with a slightly longer cure time. I found some 15′ stuff that worked well, and was even stronger. makes you a bit less nervous about getting everything the way you want it in 5′ as well. Keep redoing the wraps until they’re just the way you want them. Wrap the winding check last; it’s the most visible wrap when you’re fishing, and by saving it for the end, you’ll have all that practice beforehand. Take one last look at the wraps and the guide alignment before you mix the rod finish. Once the epoxy goes on the rod, there’s no turning back. Use syringes to measure the epoxy and hardener, and use only syringes made/sold expressly for rodbuilding. Medical syringes, while cheap and abundant, have nothing to offer the rodbuilder but misery and regret. You *will* get bubbles in the finished wraps. Steam from a cup of hot water will make them go away. I’ve hand-turned all my rods and gotten nice results. Got nothing against the automatic turners, just don’t have one. Follow Garcia’s suggestions for turning intervals and you should be fine. I strongly suggest that you use an oven timer or something similar to remind you to get up and turn the rod, especially near the end, when the intervals have stretched to 30-60′. Finally, my overall advice is to be patient, and do a quality job. Your care (or haste) in building it will be evident for many years. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Response:

A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion

Acetone must be used with great care near rods. It will eat into the blank and damage it irreparably. Alcohol is better for wiping off excess epoxy for this reason. TL MC

Response:

Thanks Guys,  I’m going crazy waiting for the damn thing to arrive in the mail.I was hoping to get it done this week while I’m still on vacation.I have a video and a pretty good book so I’m hoping things will go pretty smoothly, but no book or video can prepare you for my own personal style of screwups.My attitude is if I mess up I’ll just scrape it off and start over until I get it right. Regards,Shawn

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion Acetone must be used with great care near rods. It will eat into the blank and damage it irreparably. Alcohol is better for wiping off excess epoxy for this reason. TL MC

Response:

Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I  f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn

Response:

I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders.

They watch some damn show that captures their interest and don’t turn the rod often enough. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – regards,Shawn

Response:

I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. It starts with opening the package and goes down hill from there. The bright side is…you learn from every mistake. Have fun…it really ain’t that hard. jim

Response:

Its already been said –  Epoxy keeps flowing after you’r really sure it’s set up.  You may turn the thing for hours and be sure it set, so you put it up.  Next morning bumps where overnight the stuff has continued to flow.  If you can jury rig something to turn it do so ( I made one cheap using a dryer timing motor 6RPM) If you have never built or repaired a rod before I suggest going to Goodwill or Salvation Army and buying one.  Redo the guides and then give it back to them, it’s cheap practice. Good Luck

I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -builders. regards,Shawn

Response:

Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I  f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn

Here’s a couple of items could save you some grief. Don’t use 5 minute epoxy to put on the reel seat or the handle. It can take longer than 5 minutes to get things properly situated. Use something with a longer pot life. Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities. The stuff tends to be real sensitive to silicones which tend to be found in plastic measuring and mixing cups, stirring rods etc. There are these special syringes supplied by the coating maker for measuring the stuff which are guaranteed free of it. Don’t use any substitutes. Mix the stuff up in something made of glass like a shot glass and stir it with something like a stainless steel spoon handle. Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward. good luck Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971          

Response:

Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities.

Good advice all around.  Equal parts is a good thing.  I’ve been able to use steel kitchen measuring spoons to mix up 1 teaspoon at a time w/o problems. Mu

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I  f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn Here’s a couple of items could save you some grief. Don’t use 5 minute epoxy to put on the reel seat or the handle. It can take longer than 5 minutes to get things properly situated. Use something with a longer pot life. Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities. The stuff tends to be real sensitive to silicones which tend to be found in plastic measuring and mixing cups, stirring rods etc. There are these special syringes supplied by the coating maker for measuring the stuff which are guaranteed free of it. Don’t use any substitutes. Mix the stuff up in something made of glass like a shot glass and stir it with something like a stainless steel spoon handle. Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward.

A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – good luck Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971

Response:

… Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson

There is some opinion out there that acetone attacks rod finishes. Denatured alcohol has worked quite well for me for cleaning up epoxy that’s still in the fluid state, and it’s arguably less toxic for skin contact and vapor too. But acetone may be the right answer if the stuff has started to set up and you need to get it off. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971          

Response:

I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the  house.   Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion good luck Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971

Response:

I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the  house.   Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone.

Or just go to a charity store and buy a "china" (i.e., not plastic) dinner plate and a few dinner/butter knives.  The plate "palette" will lhave room for several batches. TC, R

Response:

Actually not.It leaves a distinct burn pattern that is readily aparent to an accomplished fire investigator. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the  house.   Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion good luck Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971

Response:

Question:

Well, it’s homecoming weekend here in Happy Valley, and those Fightin’ Illini are coming to town to see if they can’t treat the Nittany Lions the same way they did the Iowa Hawkeyes last weekend.  God, I hope not. For all the talk a few weeks ago regarding this game, a potential Autumn mini-clave here in central PA, and a few flames about OT posts– there are no plans for any fishing to actually taking place.  This is really too bad, because the weather is going to be perfect.  Not too cold, the leaves are past their prime but still beautiful, and the days are still reasonably long.  However, I have no idea how to catch trout on a fly in this weather… Ken, I tried and tried to find tickets between the 20s but to no avail.  I would really have enjoyed meeting and doing some Sunday fishing with you.  As luck would have it, none of the half-dozen folks who I *know* have tickets were willing to part with them or had already given them to somebody else–it is homecoming after all, even if the Nittany Lions are having a down year.  Ironically, my Aunt called my wife from work just this afternoon with an offer of two tickets to tomorrows game…  I have no idea if they are between the 20s, or even within sight of the field–hell, with a capacity of nearly 100,000 the term ‘nosebleed seats’ takes on some signifigance at Beaver Stadium. I believe that there are still plans being made for a spring clave on Penns Creek here in central PA.  I look forward to meeting you, Ken, and lots of other ROFFians then.  Too bad it won’t be football season. We Are Penn State! Tom Before you buy.

Response:

Well, it’s homecoming weekend here in Happy Valley, and those Fightin’ Illini are coming to town …

I’ll be watchin’ the game on ESPN2, your Nittany Lions are 3 point favorites according the official ROFF Latest Line and once again Wayno has managed to wheedle an unreal point spread for his Tar Heels. Eighteen and one half friggin’ points he gets against Clemson, it’s a gawdamn Chardonnay conspiracy I tell ya. I believe that there are still plans being made for a spring clave on Penns Creek here in central PA.  I look forward to meeting you, Ken, and lots of other ROFFians then.  Too bad it won’t be football season. We Are Penn State!

Likewise, Tom. Enjoy your weekend and don’t let a little thing like a homecoming loss spoil your fun. Oskee Wow Wow ! — Ken Fortenberry- sluggin’ Bud and hatin’ 11 a.m. kickoffs

Response:

Question:

then not.  The colder the temperatures fall the deeper and slower one needs t go.  If you can nymph in shallower waters like Jim Teeny does and get the fly ON THE BOTTOM, this is what it takes to move a fish. Trust me.  I’ve seen hundreds and hundreds of hook ups in all kinds of water temperatures and it takes warmer waters to make Ironheads spunky or even interested in chasing anything way up there on the surface. This is the main reason fly line manufacturing companies make fly lines that float, sink a little, or sink a lot. hum? Deep and slow is the trick.  If you’re fishing a #8 Wt fly rod and floating line, switch over to a #9 HD SINKING shooting head if you can’t get down to the bottom fast enough.  Then there is the question, HOW do I slow that swing down? Well, if you cast straight across a current, throw in a mend t get the line down before the current grabs it, that fly will come across as fast as the current can take it.  The trick then is to cast 45 degrees down river, where I then throw a forward roll cast of sorts for a mend (or a mend) or better still, cast hard and let the fly line snap back with lots of S curves and/or slack in it and then snake your fly rod feeding out extra slack, thus giving your fly line time to sink deep.  What remains is a very distant cast, a deeply sunk fly that once all the slack is gone and the current finally grabs it, the fly comes across SLOWLY and DEEPLY, on the bottom and across the face of a Steelhead interested enough to move over and inhale your fly. That’s about it.  Low and Slow and stay warm. George Gehrke — Mr. G. All Writings

Question:

        Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

Response:

   Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

Ask someone in your local fly shop to show you what you need to get started.  I think you will find that you can get better tools and much better supplies if you buy them seperate, than if you get a kit.  I did when I first started tying.  The difference in cost will be less that you thing. Good Luck, Greg

Response:

Don’t get a kit. In a kit you get a lot of crap that you will never use and some really cheap tools. Get a Thompsom "A" vise, some hooks, and the materials you need for the flies you want to tie. If you haven’t tyed flies before, the wooly bugger is the starting place. Size 10 hooks, thread, chenille and a couple chicken feathers and you are in business.

Response:

Nick: I think the best way to get yourself a fly-tying kit would be buying one piece at a time.  I can’t say that I have seen any really kits worth getting and I am not sure that one can save money either. Simply by a tool or two at a time along with some tying materials for a specific fly.  Gradually, you will end up with enough of tools and materials for the flies you would fish with. There is no need to buy the most expensive vice.  A Thompson vise is plenty for now. good luck jimmy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

Response:

Check out "The Hyper-Compleat Guide To Getting Started in Flytying" by Steve Schweitzer at Midwest Flytyer at http://www.mwflytyer.com/mft/articles/hyperguide.htm.  Not a bad article.  I’ve passed it onto others who found it useful.

Response:

Question:

Friday, December 12, 1997     8:34:01 PM I make a small stream fly fishing magazine on the internet.  Dedicated to the small stream enthusiast, the site contains articles freshly penned by John Shewey, (Ron Cordes and Gary LaFontain soon).  Equipment and techniques, all of the areas that I think you may want to review.  I hope that you enjoy the site as much as the fly anglers who have already visited. Thank you very much, adam Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

Response:

… Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

This site is really quite nice. I’d like to see more photos and text describing the surrounding wildlife: trees, birds, etc. Your photos are very good; it’s nice seeing pictures of the fish not all dominated by the fisher!                            - jqt –

Response:

Question:

Hi everybody, As promised on our web site, you can now have a look on the report about the Fly Fishing World Championship which occured in Jackson hole in september. http://www.infonie.com/public_html/rccb/index.htm

Response:

Hi everybody, As promised on our web site, you can now have a look on the report about the Fly Fishing World Championship which occured in Jackson hole in september. http://www.infonie.com/public_html/rccb/index.htm

Response:

Question:

I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for the help!!!                   Good luck, er fishing…                                 JOHN

Response:

: I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!!   Ah. Welcome to "livers." Since cats in my neck of the woods like minnows (live or dead) as well as anything, I won’t touch chicken livers with a stick. Went fishing once with a friend. He used livers, and wiped his f*cking hands off on his pants. Got in my car, smearing that juice all over my seat. For a week, afterwards, my car stank. "No dear, that wasn’t me…." Anyway, yeah — you can use trebles, but I don’t recommend it. Yes, the liver stays on much better, but it’s not a good hook for cats (unlike a "Kahle(sp?)"), and if they do gulp it, it’s the devil’s own work, unhooking it. Instead — either fry the livers very briefly, or leave them out in the sun, first, for a while. That toughens ‘em up, and they won’t fly off the hook when you cast.

Response:

: I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!!

You could use two small trebs englobbed in the flesh. TimW

Response:

: I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!! You could use two small trebs englobbed in the flesh. TimW

you can use what we call out here magic thread. what is it, it is a thread about the size of dental floss and it is elastic you take a live to a hook and hold on to one end of the thread and pull it tight and wrap the meat to the hook. let go of it and it senches the liver to the hook no knots to tie. it works great happy trails robert

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!!   Ah. Welcome to "livers." Since cats in my neck of the woods like minnows (live or dead) as well as anything, I won’t touch chicken livers with a stick. Went fishing once with a friend. He used livers, and wiped his f*cking hands off on his pants. Got in my car, smearing that juice all over my seat. For a week, afterwards, my car stank. "No dear, that wasn’t me…." Anyway, yeah — you can use trebles, but I don’t recommend it. Yes, the liver stays on much better, but it’s not a good hook for cats (unlike a "Kahle(sp?)"), and if they do gulp it, it’s the devil’s own work, unhooking it. Instead — either fry the livers very briefly, or leave them out in the sun, first, for a while. That toughens ‘em up, and they won’t fly off the hook when you cast.

Just put all the livers you want in the toe of an old pair of pantyhose…tie it off of pin it shut…insert hook and feel free to cast as hard as you want….Good luck!  this technique has really gotten me some massive channel cats in the rivers of PA…

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: I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!!   Take a spool of light cotton thread with you and wrap about a foot of it around the liver to hold in place. Don’t wrap it too tight or it’ll slice the liver. I like cotton thread because it breaks easy and I don’t need to hunt for my knife all the time, it just breaks with a pull. Try beef or pork liver, works just as well and stays on the hook better. BiNM

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I just wanted to second this: Since cats in my neck of the woods like minnows (live or dead) as well as anything, I won’t touch chicken livers with a stick.

I do use liver every now and then, or get some of that "catfish bait" in the tubs at the store. But catfish really like live small fish or large minnows (check your regs before using small fish – here it is okay to use small sunfish only if you catch them legally with hook and line) or cut bait. Night crawlers also work well. If it is legal to chum, you can toss a liver in near your line to attract cats. Once they arrive, they will eat other offerings as well. -Andy

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : I was fishing tonight for catfish at a local pond using chicken liver. : I got numerous bites, maybe 15 or so in a 3 hour period.  Yet I only : managed to catch one.  The liver was pretty soft and kept falling off : the hook.  Should I be using treble hooks??  What size would you : recommend for cats??  Any special techniques I should take into account : when getting bites?? i.e. when do I set the hook?  Any special way to : keep the liver secure on the hook?  Anyone???  Bueller???  Thanks for : the help!!!   Take a spool of light cotton thread with you and wrap about a foot of it around the liver to hold in place. Don’t wrap it too tight or it’ll slice the liver. I like cotton thread because it breaks easy and I don’t need to hunt for my knife all the time, it just breaks with a pull. Try beef or pork liver, works just as well and stays on the hook better. BiNM

You can also use a little square of panty hose wrapped around the liver…

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Question:

I bought my first float tube in the 60s and my first pontoon boat (a Leigh) three  months ago.  I’ll never get in a float tube again.  I have the oars setup and it sure gets me back to my truck in winds a lot easier than finning a tube.  Also, the chap that mentioned that getting in and out of a tube once a session so it doesn’t bother him either fishes short days or is considerably younger than I with a much strong bladder — and I don’t mean a tube bladder.

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I’ve used both a tube and two other pontoon kickboats and would recomend the pontoon kickboats for the following reasons. Easier to get in and out of. You sit up higher and can see into the water better They’re faster than the traditional floatube With oar attachments they’re really faster! I use a JW Outfitters Backpacker that is easier to backpack into lakes than an inflated float tube. This one is made for backpacking. A group of us have been float tubing the boundary waters and Sylvania wilderness area for the last 7 years and live in our tubes 10 hours a day for a week, so I’m pretty peticular and have thought a lot about this. However, I’m now looking at the Hobie Float by Hobie Cat. It has roto molded pontoons and can be backpacked (24lbs). No more pumps and patches for the inflatable tubes!! Neat looking stuff. Local shop is getting a demo in and will probably fish it next week. As Dennis Miller says, " That’s just my opinion; I could be wrong." Good luck with your purchase. – Denny Redmond

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tell me more about Leigh ppontoon boats-e.g. size, wt, price etc.does it spin a lot in the wind like a boat?

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Rook, I do not know about Leigh pontoon boats but do know about the water otter.  It is 6ft 6inches X 44inches x 12inches weights 23 lb dry and about 32 with everthing.  The capacity is 300lbs.  Made out of 32oz. PVC 11oo Denier and the frame is 1 inch square aluminum tube.  I have used this oar pontoon boat on the Big Horn, Green River and the lower Sac.  I would not suggest that you get a kick pontoon boat ( with out the ability to use oars) a Caddis pontoon kick boat was used in the unfortunte (SP) accident last weekend on the green river.  Man died. Email me direct if you want more infor. on Water Otter.  Good luck. Regards, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -tell me more about Leigh ppontoon boats-e.g. size, wt, price etc.does it spin a lot in the wind like a boat?

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]I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations. Well, here’s more than you ever wanted to hear about float tubes… I own the U Boat from The Creek Company.  Having used both round and U tubes, and recommend the U boat heavily, mainly for the ease of getting in and out of it.  There are probably a myriad of ways to get in and out of these things, but when you have flippers on, stepping through the middle of a round tube, while avoiding the seat, and still keeping your balance, well, let’s just say it takes practice.  I’ve also heard from people who’ve used a round boat for awhile, that it actually starts to wear the knees of neoprene waders, from the rubbing when you’re kicking in the water. I’ve used the Buck’s U tube, and unless they’ve changed it, what I didn’t like about it was the heavy metal bar that goes across the opening of the "U".  This is what keeps the open ends of the U from collapsing on your legs while you’re in the water.  The U Boat uses straps along the backside of the U to keep the open end of the U open and it works well.  (You pull them tight after inflating it.)  I didn’t like the bar on the Buck’s tube, because it added weight, and didn’t allow you to roll up the tube tightly when deflated. I had a chance to briefly demo both the U Boat and Gliderider (at a flyfishing show), and it was strictly a personal choice that I picked the U Boat.  I like the Gliderider, it seemed make me slouch, almost like a recliner chair.  With the U Boat, I was more upright.   I ended up buying my U Boat at the show, and their salesman made a strong pitch (as you would expect from a salesman) about their lifetime guarantee with NORMAL use, and how their seems are so much better sealed than competitors.  Take that for what it’s worth. Any shop worth its salt should let you demo a tube.  There are so many of these out there (and even more now with variants of pontoons & other "personal floatation devices"), that I think it would be impossible to make a decision based on catalogue pictures and testimony from others. Whatever you choose, enjoy!  These things are the greatest invention since the fly rod/ ree, and they’ll open up access to more water than you could get to without.  – Bill Uyeki

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I’d recommend a pontoon style.  It’s easier to handle colder water because you have less body in the water.  It’s easier to get around in larger laker because you can use oars — and in smaller lakes it is just as easy to manuver as a regular float tube. Brian

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’m about to buy my first float tube. I’ve ruled out the old round style and am leaning toward a u-shaped model although I have not ruled out a pontoon-type craft. I don’t want to spend more than $300. That puts me near the high end of u-boats. I’ve looked at the Buck’s Bullet and I’ve also received a recommendation for the Wood River Gliderunner. This is the low end for pontoon-style boats. I think Buck’s has one for $295. Don’t get me wrong, I would spend less than $300 but I want a good quality, well-designed product. Since this will be my only craft it must be versatile. My waters are large, potentially windy resevoirs and also small, walk-in lakes. I could conceivably also tube in the kelp beds off the coast here (So. Cal.) I’m 6′-4" and 190lbs. I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations.

Hmmm…If/when you settle on a float tube, make sure that it’s sized appropriately. At 6′4" and 190 you may be riding low in the water with some of the tubes out there – especially the u-boats (speakin’ from experience – I’m 6′5", headin’ for 230 (ugh!) and I use a Buck’s Giant "old style" tube to keep me high on the water). Also, realize that while the u-boats are indeed easier to get in and out of, on a windy day the waves will be breaking on your chest instead of against the tube… Anyway…I’m partial to the tubes over the pontoons as the tubes are easier to pack into remote ponds up in the Maine/NH woods (of course, I do have a 12′ canoe for situations where I guess a pontoon would otherwise be used). Of course, this is all entirely subjective stuff… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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   Well, not to be a party pooper, but I’ve been perfectly happy with my totally-basic-no-frills Caddis round tube…it’s as tough and sturdy as any other model they make…it just doesn’t have the Lay-Z-Boy recliner back and all the pockets.  Best of all, it only costs about $80.    Do you really need a "U-boat?"  Why?  I have no trouble getting in and out of mine (and I usually only need to do it once once I’m on the water).    Just my 2 cents’ worth. —         Scott Wilkinson         Montgomery County, Maryland

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I have both a round tube and a Gliderider.  The Gliderider is definitely easier to use and easier to handle in wind.  While not a necessity, the V style is great.  I find that in the round tube, I bang up against the front of the tube when trying to move through the water quickly and it becomes annoying.  I am 6′ and I would imagine that at 6′ 4" you will have this problem too.  I was also attracted to the Gliderider because of its weight and portability.  At 6 lbs 11oz you can deflate it and stuff it into a duffel when traveling.  It’s easy to blow up without a pump (something you can’t do easily with a truck tire).  These lightweight bladders are available for a round tube but they cost ~ 50 – 80 bucks. You can buy a bigger and lighter round tube, but the cost will approach the Gliderider.  My girlfriend likes my round tube much better than the V tube because it lets her get a tan much easier without getting too wet. At least she can have a good time while I get to go fishing. Steve

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I’ve had the Caddis Premier U-tube for the last 2 years and have been extremely happy.  Lots of pockets.  I especially like the spreader bar that goes across the front.  It keeps it spread open while setting in it, and removes easy for entry and exit.  Cabella’s have them advertized right now for I think $159 including a pair of flippers. I dont think you can beat the deal if you want a U tube.  I looked extensively 2 years ago and decided this was the one I liked best. Good luck, & tight lines. Don Albrecht Donald Albrecht

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I’m about to buy my first float tube. I’ve ruled out the old round style and am leaning toward a u-shaped model although I have not ruled out a pontoon-type craft. I don’t want to spend more than $300. That puts me near the high end of u-boats. I’ve looked at the Buck’s Bullet and I’ve also received a recommendation for the Wood River Gliderunner. This is the low end for pontoon-style boats. I think Buck’s has one for $295. Don’t get me wrong, I would spend less than $300 but I want a good quality, well-designed product. Since this will be my only craft it must be versatile. My waters are large, potentially windy resevoirs and also small, walk-in lakes. I could conceivably also tube in the kelp beds off the coast here (So. Cal.) I’m 6′-4" and 190lbs. I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations. Thanks, Tim

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Question:

Anyone use a FF comp. game/simulator that goes by the name of Fly Fishing The McCloud River? Yeah? Well, don’t leave us in suspense…

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The McCloud River Game is available from Orvis San Francisco 3 animated screens ..run..riffle..pool.  Nice casting loops..success based on selecting fly best for season/time of day..casting to holding water for large trout..reel zzzz fish break off.. not designed for hard core game manics..fly fisherman new to computer games love it for the feel of fly fishing for big rainbows and browns on the best freestone river anywhere. dh

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