Question:

Some natives of ROFF are fairly wild. Some natives elsewhere, may object to being called "wild", but might accept "uncivilised", coupled perchance, with "indigenous"?  Some wild things are not necessarily native, or indeed indigenous, and are seldom civilised. Fishery biologists are not always native, and seldom uncivilised, although they may be wild. My "experience" of Florida, admittedly pure hearsay, is limited to hearing or reading about kidnappings and murders of unsuspecting, ( apparently mostly German), tourists, on or in the daily news. No information with regard to the respective professions of these people was usually tendered, although it may well be that one or the other group consisted either partly, perhaps even mainly, or indeed possibly even exclusively, of wild uncivilised native fishery biologists, with large ears and short hair, some of whom were driving too slowly, in the lane reserved for overtaking. Whether or not this was the reason for the kidnapping, and / or murder, is not clear. Somehow seems a sensible supposition nevertheless. Such instances appear to be rare in North Carolina, whether this is due to the absence of overtaking lanes, the lack of tourism, international news coverage, or the veritable plethora of legal eagles who it seems are still practising in that state, presumably thus rendering such activities less profitable, is a matter for considerable conjecture. It would certainly appear that some fishery biologists, whether native or not, although presumably  indigenous to somewhere or other, possibly even to Florida, may in fact be more civilised than others, notwithstanding the short hair and long ears, or even the florid complexion, and the tendency to slow driving in the wrong lane, all of which may, or may not,  be typical of fishery biologists, "Floridians", or tourists in general. This is demonstrated quite clearly by the peculiar propensity of this particular group,( although admittedly, as of yet, a statistically invalid sample ), for publishing apologies on ROFF. Complex terminology,  invariably indicative of considerable, in some circumstances, even colossal commitment, and indefatigable endeavour, perhaps finely tempered with a modicum of civilisation, on the part of those professions constrained to its use, in order to effect understandable and readily definable communication among themselves, may often cause confusion among large groups of the population, not currently conversant or capable, concerning such concepts. Interchangeable  use of specific professional terminology by the public at large should generally be avoided. Hope this clears everything up. Oleum et operam perdidi, hinc illae lacrumae.  Quot homines, tot sententiae, quis leget haec? TL MC — "If you have tried everything you know, and nothing works, then perhaps it is time to accept that you don

Question:

…  Dressing should NOT be of silicone based products as found in England but rather with gink,… Silk responds well to a gink dressing … Remember, try straight gink, …

Red Mucilin is the best dressing for silk lines. Green Mucilin contains silicone and the spammer is correct, silicone products should not be used on silk lines. — Ken Fortenberry- give it a rest, G.

Response:

Red mucilin is the best dressing for silk lines, and as far as I am aware is the only dressing recommended by practically the last manufacturers of these lines.   No other dressings should be used, as they may damage the line, and these lines are now very expensive indeed.  They are the finest lines it is possible to use for small stream fishing, or for fishing areas where a stealthy approach is essential. They allow delicate presentation, cause less disturbance, and the modern ones are nowhere near as much trouble to keep in good condition as the old ones were. They will outlast any modern plastic line quite easily, and so the increased expense is perhaps not so relevant. It is immaterial whether they are used on cane or carbon fibre, or indeed fibre-glass rods. TL MC — "In order to know what is possible one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

They are the finest lines it is possible to use for small stream fishing, or for fishing areas where a stealthy approach is essential. They allow delicate presentation, cause less disturbance, and the modern ones are nowhere near as much trouble to keep in good condition as the old ones were. They will outlast any modern plastic line quite easily, and so the increased expense is perhaps not so relevant.

This thread has kind of got me interested in learning more about silk lines and where to get them.  Any suggestions on where more info can be found? Warren X#-[

Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

George,     I couldn't agree more that silk fly lines are an excellent option. In fact, they have so many benefits that many of my friends are now switching to them. Olaf Borge was making brisk sales of Phoenix lines at the recent Rodmakers gathering in Grayling.

snip:  I have to remove the cap of the Gink tube and use forceps to get it out. Could you work on that?]

______  The albolene is like water in hot weather and the tube option leaves a lot to be desired because of losing the little cap with cold fingers, or any other number of reasons astream.  I have to think of the hundreds of thousands of possible factors that will cause customers to be unhappy regarding just the cap.  This is one of the reasons we use the cap we do.  The other is the gasket on tubes are not guaranteed to last the life of the tube.  Many lose this seal also.   Gink is very difficult to contain because it has great penetration powers on flies which is one of the reasons it’s superior.  (No spam intended, dang it Ken)  Regardless, the bottle we use is a specific choice because the seal on it is complete and is one of the few vessels that will contain gink without leakage and seals during long storage because it only takes a little to dress a fly. When you gink a silk fly line it will be better for silk fly lines than the ‘English Option’ known as the "Red Tin".  (Smiling here pal).  In fact, I know it for a fact based just on science and objective testing and usage covering a span of 30 years Reed.  The freedom of choice is yours, but you should at least give yourself a try because regardless of what silk fly line makers may think what is best for their fly lines, I assure you I know more about it then they do. In fact gink was tested to be specific for silk lines long before Phoenix was in business. I’ll leave it at that, excepting I would never tell you anything that wasn’t better in terms of your best interests.  That I happen to be the maker of gink, has nothing to do with it.  That fly fishermen now gink a fly instead of just dressing a fly is a product of satisfaction over many years of use.  That a ginked silk fly line floats and behaves better than any other products used, especially silicone Red Tinned products, is without question.  Red Tinned versions still attract dirt on silk, makes it abrasive and wears out silk before its time.  Again, the secret to any fly line, I must admit is keeping them clean and properly dressed.  If you’re satisfied with the Red Option Reed, after all this time, frankly you should continue using it.   For the high price of silk however, I’d use my stuff. — MrG/American Sportsman http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

Response:

If you look at Reed

Question:

What do you guys think of the Orvis Clearwater floating line? I just bought a 6 WF and I’ll tell you, I like it a lot, but since my only other line I ever used was a $15 Scientific Angler line I started out with from KMart.

Once any initial spools coils have straightened out, ALL new lines are going to cast nicely, compared with old ones. That’s why some of us spend some time and effort in trying to keep our old lines feeling like new lines! Anyways, I’ll tell you, it makes a huge difference not having any strike indicator or split shot on the leader when casting! I could cast the dry fly about 30-40 feet with ease and pretty accurately (I did have to false cast twice each cast though). The Orvis line just shot out, but when I have split shot on there and some strike indicator putty when I fish nymphs I’m lucky to get out 10 feet without splashing all over the place.

ANYTHING on the leader that affects the balance of the set up; the turnover; the air resistance (such as heavy flies; fat, air-resistant flies; multiple flies; very long leaders; strike indicators, etc., etc.) will have an adverse effect on the cast. The better the caster you become, the better you will cope with these impediments. Another question: I;m a little tired of seeing my Orvis Strike Putty (green stuff) not staying afloat in running water. For those of you that use indicators, which type/brand do you recommend? Thanks

If you’re using really heavy flies, or attached split shot, strike putty or a bit of proofed fluff just ain’t going to be buoyant enough to stay up. You will have to go to a more buoyant indicator. There are some purpose made foam indicators on the market. A tip taught me by Hans van Klinken (ace Dutch FFer) is to use the self-adhesive polyethylene foam sheet used for lining fly boxes. He cuts this into little narrow rectangles of varying sizes. These are scored, part through, down the centre line of the rectangle wit a sharp blade. When you want to attach the indicator, just peel off the backing paper and fold over wherever you want it on the leader. Works very well and cheap too! Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

Response:

Recently stocked fish often behave differently to wild fish. It takes time for them to recognise fly hatches as food for instance.  If you want to catch such fish a largish attractor fly is usually better.  After they have "settled" in, you can then go back to "matching the hatch".

I agree, except I look at it sort of opposite – seems to me it takes awhile for stocked fish to recognize half of what they go for is NOT food.  My strike indicator, for instance. Regards, Jeff

Response:

Recently stocked fish often behave differently to wild fish. It takes time for them to recognise fly hatches as food for instance.  If you want to catch such fish a largish attractor fly is usually better.  After they have "settled" in, you can then go back to "matching the hatch". Try using a weighted nymph instead of the split shot, and use a longer piece of thin tippet to make sure it sinks well. You might try using a piece of polypropylene yarn.   One thing you can do is to mark the end of your line with a bright orange marker or similar, and watch this. It works as well as an indicator, and does not affect your casting. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

What do you guys think of the Orvis Clearwater floating line? I just bought a 6 WF and I’ll tell you, I like it a lot, but since my only other line I ever used was a $15 Scientific Angler line I started out with from KMart. I’ve been nymphing exclusively since starting flyfishing last September. Today, for the first time, I tried a dry fly (BWO). There was a BWO hatch on my local stream that had recently been stocked, but not a single rise anywhere. Anyways, I’ll tell you, it makes a huge difference not having any strike indicator or split shot on the leader when casting! I could cast the dry fly about 30-40 feet with ease and pretty accurately (I did have to false cast twice each cast though). The Orvis line just shot out, but when I have split shot on there and some strike indicator putty when I fish nymphs I’m lucky to get out 10 feet without splashing all over the place. Another question: I;m a little tired of seeing my Orvis Strike Putty (green stuff) not staying afloat in running water. For those of you that use indicators, which type/brand do you recommend? Thanks

Response:

Question:

Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Response:

Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Simms Guide model breathables. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

writes: Is there such a thing as "the best waders?

The best waders are which ever ones fit your needs and your pocket book. You’re right they’re so many out there and most of them work as promised. If money is not an object, breathables Simms Guide Gortex, LL Bean Gortex or the new tough Orvis ones are supposed to be good. I have had the simms for four seasons now. Not a leak yet, very comfortable in the summer but they were and are pricey. If I wear my breathables over fleece pants, I have yet to have a "cold" problem steelheading. I never plan on wearing my neoprenes again. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

I too am in the process of "gearing up".  After speaking with several individuals, an Orvis salesperson, a BassPro rep, and looking through a plethora of magazines and books, I have concluded the following: 1.    Not all waders are created equal. 2.    If you buy a $10 pair of waders, expect a $10 pair of waders. 3.    NO 2 fly fisherman (or sales people) will answer the same question         with the same (or nearly the same) answer. 4.    Waders are a personal choice based on the following:         A.    Area to be fished (ie; hiking 10miles in 6mm neoprene is                 not the most pleasant experience.)         B.    Seasons fished (15 degrees in 45 degree water is no fun                 in lightweight breathables.)         C.    Price range:  Buy the best you can afford while keeping in                 mind what you are going to use them for. Basically, unless you are comparing two specific products, there are no definitive answers.  Think:  Need, Desire, Use, Price.  When in doubt, take along a fly fisherman you trust and have him/her answer the necessary questions on your behalf. Casting is free therapy!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Response:

Ditto the previous replies. Except for the coldest, most rugged conditions, the breathables are the best bet. I have Hodgmans, which I love. Go with the ones that fit you best; both your body and your pocketbook! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing

Response:

Basically, ditto. Breathables are not only the most comfortable thing I’ve worn in the water (besides an occasional big grin) they are absolutely fantastic for travel. They dry overnight and take almost no space at all when they go back into your suitcase for the morning flight. But if you’re only going to fish a couple of times a year, you have to decide whether they are worth the expense. I like Simms. Ken Ft. Lupton, CO – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: Is there such a thing as "the best waders? The best waders are which ever ones fit your needs and your pocket book. You’re right they’re so many out there and most of them work as promised. Wayne Knight Geneva IL

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of good vendors out there.  I’ve got some LL Bean waist-high breathable waders which I find fantastically comfortable (I fish a lot of small, freestone streams) and have been very durable.  Waist high works much better than hippers (which invariable are 2" too short) and are much more comfortable in hot weather than chest waders.  I almost never miss the extra height of a chest wader (if it’s that deep, you should be fishing in it, not walking in it). I also have a pair of Orvis Chest High breathable waders, which I would give a miss.  The fabric simply isn’t puncture resistant enough. Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ditto the previous replies. Except for the coldest, most rugged conditions, the breathables are the best bet. I have Hodgmans, which I love. Go with the ones that fit you best; both your body and your pocketbook! Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G.

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G.

Plus if you gotta piss it’s  better’n neoprene, eh George? BA

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G. Plus if you gotta piss it’s  better’n neoprene, eh George? BA

_______   yep. —

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s something to think about.  I saw this message on a sailing newsgroup: A guy went into the water in Elliott Bay as part of a [simulated rescue situation]. He was wearing a survival suit (the water *is* cold up here), and made the mistake of diving in head-first.  All the trapped air in the suit collected at the highest point once he was in the water, which was the feet.  He was not able to get himself rightside-up, and drowned before the boat could get back to him. I’ve never seen a survival suit except in pictures, but I understand it to be something like a dry suit with insulation and flotation built-in. I guess there *IS* a reason why I ritualisticly squeeze all the air out of my suit before each time I get into my boat.

Doesn’t sound like much of a problem for paddlers’ dry suits to me.  At least decked boaters are wearing a spray skirt which ought to be tight enough to keep air passing that quickly between upper body and legs. And everyone I’ve seen putting on dry suits burps as much air out as possible simply for the reason of making them more flexible.

Response:

: Here’s something to think about.  I saw this message on a sailing : newsgroup: I should have mentioned:  these survival suits (when I owned one) did not have neck gaskets; the only way I remember that air/water could get in our out was from around the neck.

Response:

(KCKaddis) writes: sounds like an urban legend to me … you’d think that a suit designed to save

your life would have floatation in the right spot to float you head up if unconciuos Actually, this is a common problem with dry suits. SCUBA divers often wear additional weight on their ankles to prevent a feet up uncontrolled ascent. … by the by , while fly fishing , I learned of the same prob with waders…

the solution , if you find yerself in this fix , is to pull your knees to your chest & burp the air out… or stay dry  ; ) More likely, it is a case of pulling your chest up toward your feet. Still, a dry suit has air stored up to the neck with a gasket that is intended to be leakproof. This is a whole lot different than a pair of waders which allow air to freely flow in/out. SCUBA suits have valves to allow air to escape at roughly chest level, but survival suits or the dry suits used when paddling do not. This should not be a life threatening situation with proper training, but few know of this risk and even fewer practice how to escape from this situation (the logical escape procedure would involve raising the body toward the surface in as flat a plane as possible, thus allowing the  the air to redistribute evenly in the suit – not having the opportunity to practice this, I’d imagine strong swimming/sculling skills and good breath control would come in handy). Whether or not this particular even is an urban legend is moot. There is a potential when wearing a dry suit for the air to redistribute in this fashion as the suit does nothing to prohibit the motion of air. Thus, bleeding the things before entering the water is important. Rick

Response:

Actually, [air trapped in legs, floating you head down] is a common problem with dry suits. SCUBA divers often wear additional weight on their ankles to prevent a feet up uncontrolled ascent. This should not be a life threatening situation with proper training, but few know of this risk and even fewer practice how to escape from this situation (the logical escape procedure would involve raising the body toward the surface in as flat a plane as possible, thus allowing the  the air to redistribute evenly in the suit – not having the opportunity to practice this, I’d imagine strong swimming/sculling skills and good breath control would come in handy).

I’ll be helping to run a pool session this winter, and I plan to try it.  My dry suit has ankle gaskets, so the easiest escape for me probably will be to reach for my ankles and burp them.  Who knows, maybe the pressure inside the suit will be enough for it to happen without my help.  If that’s the case, then I’ll try to borrow a suit that has booties built in, or I’ll try taping my ankle seals to make them tighter.

Response:

KCKaddis writes :: << sounds like an urban legend to me I remember when dry suits first appeared in the UK (early 70’s) – they were made out of latex rubber and actually worked pretty well while they lasted (which wasn’t long). They had a roll waist attachment and glued on booties. I would wear mine snorkeling and if I didn’t burp the suit my flippers would pop off my feet whenever I dove (my feet would turn into balloons). I don’t remember any problems getting stuck upside down though. The clear latex suits (mine was pink) were the worst looking things in the world – looked like they should have come out of a giant dispensing machine in the public toilets<g Mick Evans

Response:

        I did run across one survival rescue suit in a catalog a coupla years ago that had rings embedded in the legs so that they wouldn’t expand if air rushed there in an upside down position.  Blurb suggested that indeed it had been a problem.   KCKaddis wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … you’d think that a suit designed to save your life would have floatation in the right spot to float you head up if unconciuos… by the by , while fly fishing , I learned of the same prob with waders… the solution , if you find yerself in this fix , is to pull your knees to your chest & burp the air out… or stay dry  ; )

Response:

: Here’s something to think about.  I saw this message on a sailing : newsgroup: … I owned one of these, though never tried it out in the water, when I fished in Bristol Bay.  I no longer remember the details about them except that the suits are like toddler’s pajamas, and are bulky and awkward to get in and out of.   I find the story to be quite credible.

Response:

Sportsmansguide actually has some surplus survival suits   for $200. They have huge airbladder on the back, apparently to prevent this sort of mishap. I once read of a similar fatal accident involving a fat woman with an inner tube around her waist.

Response:

sounds like an urban legend to me … you’d think that a suit designed to save your life would have floatation in the right spot to float you head up if unconciuos… by the by , while fly fishing , I learned of the same prob with waders… the solution , if you find yerself in this fix , is to pull your knees to your chest & burp the air out… or stay dry  ; )

Response:

Here’s something to think about.  I saw this message on a sailing newsgroup: A guy went into the water in Elliott Bay as part of a [simulated rescue situation]. He was wearing a survival suit (the water *is* cold up here), and made the mistake of diving in head-first.  All the trapped air in the suit collected at the highest point once he was in the water, which was the feet.  He was not able to get himself rightside-up, and drowned before the boat could get back to him.

I’ve never seen a survival suit except in pictures, but I understand it to be something like a dry suit with insulation and flotation built-in. I guess there *IS* a reason why I ritualisticly squeeze all the air out of my suit before each time I get into my boat.

Response:

Question:

I’m interested in fishing from a kayak and have seen ads from a California company that makes a molded plastic catamaran-style kayak they claim is "designed for fishermen."  Anyone have any experience with Mendocino Kayaks? Obviously I’d like something that paddles easily, is relatively stable, light-weight and car-toppable.  I’d welcome comments and suggestions.

Response:

I currently own an Ocean Kayak malibu II, I love it. Its a two seater so maybe a single for you? The "sit on top" kayaks are real stable to fish from , which is my main reason for my purchacing one. I dont know your type of fishing, mine is fly fishing salt water flats and channels.Maybe this will help. Good luck mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m interested in fishing from a kayak and have seen ads from a California company that makes a molded plastic catamaran-style kayak they claim is "designed for fishermen."  Anyone have any experience with Mendocino Kayaks? Obviously I’d like something that paddles easily, is relatively stable, light-weight and car-toppable.  I’d welcome comments and suggestions.

Response:

Question:

Anyone know a decent flyshop in the Berkshires…for local advice and flytying materials.

Response:

If you are in the northern Berkshires, you might try the Smith and Morey shop on Route 2 in Charlemont.  The proprietor is a friendly guy and, along with one of his buddies, gave me some advice on the Deerfield last weekend.  The shop is a combination of hunting and fishing supplies, so the flyfishing/tying merchandise is not dazzling.  He said he would only be open on weekends after Christmas, but you can also check his main outdoor store (same name) just off of Route 2 in Shelburn Falls on the main street about a block away from the bridge crossing the Deerfield. Good luck! Rob Foster

Response:

Question:

I am planning to be in the 1,000 islands area for the weekend of 9/28. What’s the flyfishing like there?  Where are the ‘good’ spots, and what flies are being used.  Also, I am not even sure what fish are available. Please help! Mac

Response:

I am planning to be in the 1,000 islands area for the weekend of 9/28. What’s the flyfishing like there?  Where are the ‘good’ spots, and what flies are being used.  Also, I am not even sure what fish are available.

1.  Fly fishing for bass usually ends rather suddenly in mid-September: but everything is late this year…. 2.  Muskellunge is the prized local species for fall fishing, and might be taken on fly, but no one tries.  (Everyone trolls.) 3.  Lake Ontario tributaries in NY state (south to Oswego) should then be full of chinook and coho salmon and some accompanying trout species too, which can mostly be caught on fly. You need good local information, however, for all these species.  You’d have the most fly fishing fun with #3, perhaps employing a guide. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

I have the opportunity to buy a used 2-man fiberglass drift boat, equiped w/oars, anchor, trailer, etc., but I’m really not sure what’s the going price? Any ideas?  Please let me know what to what out for in buying a used fiberglass drift.

Response:

Please let me know what to what out for in buying a used fiberglass drift.

Leaks? — -Wayne Trzyna

Response:

i looked at boat that could handle two persons only (not sure of the size) and the guy was asking $1400.  Because of the small size and ability to carry such a light load, many people don’t want them.  Bottom line is that the guy took $800 for it. Having had a few drift boat, don’t get sucked into the price and compromise on the size.  A two man boat offers limited carry capacity.  You will always have more gear then you anticipate plus at least two other friends who want to fish.   I just built a 17′ flyfishing model that can carry 3 fisherman and one oarsman confortability, first one I ever owned that really is close to what I need.   — Gene Dobrzynski, Eagle River, Alaska

Response:

Question:

It’s Friday at 3+ pm on th ewest coast and I just finished reading all my mail and catching up my newsgroups. I’m submitting this post because of an alarming trend I’ve noticed lately….you know, these 3 groups (alt.fishing, rec.outdoors.fishing, rec.outdoors.fishing.fly) seem to get POSTED TO MORE ON THE WEEKENDS than any of the others I’m involved with! I remember my Dad telling me when I was a kid "the reason you don’t catch any fish is your’re too busy fartin’ around instead of fishin’" Well ladies and gents, the same applies to the rest of you out there..fish at least for a coupla’ hours this weekend or teach some kid how to cast or tie a fly, tie a clinch, blood or surgeon’s knot or cast with a bait casting reel….BUT STAY OFF THE NET….the holes are too big, and the fish SLIPP rihght through…. My thoughts, I’m going to the Delta tonight for cats..wish me luck! Larry  #:)#

Response:

I had a boss once who was fond of saying you don’t catch any fish unless you have a line in the water.  The older I get, the wiser he sounds.

Response:

Larry!  I  thought you were coming up to Chico to catch some shad this weekend!  I’ve went out to the river Thursday  and  Friday nights to look for you — no Larry. Oh well.  Nothing lost.  Mike only caught 20 something shad on Thursday night, while I only caught in the teens… Friday was slower — I only caught 4 shad in the 45 minutes before darkness fell.  Some damned striper fisherman was hogging my hotspot fishing for them dumb critters, so I didn’t get as many  shad as I could have. He managed to catch a  13 inch rainbow on a striper hook with a piece of anchovy.  But no stripers.  Weirdest thing I ever saw.  (Well, not quite.) — Jim McElroy Calif. State Univ., Chico

Response:

I had a boss once who was fond of saying you don’t catch any fish unless you have a line in the water.  The older I get, the wiser he sounds.

He sounds pretty stupid to me.  You better have a lure or a hook and bait out there too.   Been plenty of times when all I had was a line in  the water and I never got a fish, not once. — Jim McElroy Calif. State Univ., Chico

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