Question:

   Good fortune, Oh yes.  Now , I know that you and your friend are just checking to see what kind of answers you get here, but I offer this anyway.  Looking around at the following should get you going.    I now buy almost everything from Clemens Tackle, (610) 395 5119, www.clemenstackle.com   Dick French there is extremely knowledgable.  They list other rod wrappers than the Pacific Bay rod wrapper in their catalog and they have good quality in everything needed.  Get their catalog and ask about the RodCrafter’s Journal.  They also have some books you’ll want and video tapes maybe you’ll want later.    Both of the above have run seminars around the country each year but I don’t know anything about that.      Cabela’s "Tackle Craft" catalog  lists the Flex Coat line which looks good too.  Also a list of books and videos.    The best way and the fastest way to get a look at rod building is to go to www.flyanglersonline.com  click on rodbuilding and view the excellent twelve chapter on-line book on rod building.  It really gave me a jump start and I still refer to it.    Fishing with a rod that I built is extremely satisfying.  Almost as satisfying as fishing with my kids and grandkids using rods into which I put all the extra care that is not in a production rod.  Right now I’m thinking about a couple of new rods…  No it is not an addiction…  I could quit any time…  besides I have to build that spinning rod for my daughter-in-law, too.   —

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Steve,    The thing on the lower left is the foot pedal/reostat. Next to it, above the grips, is a conventional rod wrapper (learn to use it, it’s the most useful devise in the picture). Next to it is a thread holder accessory to the power wrapper. It  has the capacity to hold multiple thread spools, for fancy-shmancy wrapping. The lathe like device is a power wrapper, best used for production (sloppy looking) rod building. The only thing I’d use it for is drying, on the low speed setting. The big thing in the lower right corner is used to shape cork grips, after they’ve been glued up on the devise that’s leaning against the wall on the left. The things leaning against the wall on the right are tapered reamers, for enlarging the ID of the finished cork grip.   Hope this helps. E-mail me if you need instructions on how to use any of this junk.             Charlie

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA. The current PacBay catalog lists their address as:         Pacific Bay International, Inc.         165 Business Park Loop         Sequim, WA 98382         (360) 683 – 2080         (360) 683 – 2234 (Fax) They are pretty nice folks at PacBay, I’m sure they can find an instruction book for you.  The list price on that thing is $338, if you were wondering.

Thanks for the information, Kevin. This rod wrapper had so much dust on it that it must have been in my friend’s garage for many years. I despaired of finding a manual. I’ll call PacBay on Monday. Kevin If you can’t figure out how to use it, just box it all up and ship it to me.

I’m afraid you’ll have to come here to use it. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

could the black thing be a thread holder for the rod wrapper? does it attach to the wrapper somewhere?

Bingo. The black thread holder has three rollers (with ball bearings) that butt up against the rod wrapper in such a way that the thread is in exactly the right position. There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder. I’ve put three more photos on the web:         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p1.jpg         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p2.jpg         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p3.jpg The first one shows the motor, the chuck in the open position, the thread holder in position, two of the three roller mechanisms, and the mysterious metal plate. The second photo is a little closer up. The third photo shows the rollers that are under the thread holder, and the rod wrapper chuck in the closed position. If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

not that I’ve ever used such fancy equipment but……. in http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The thing against the back wall with the wood pieces joined by threaded rod is for pressing together individual cork rings that have been put on the rod (or a dowel if you are making the grip separately) while the glue dries. The large motor on the right, I believe, is for turning the rod or the dowel with the cork rings so you can shape them.  It can also be used as a lathe to shape a wood insert for a reel seat.   I have no idea what the metal bar with three machine screws is used for. http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p1.jpg You got your hands on some nice equipment. Want to make me a custom rod? Willi

Response:

Bingo. The black thread holder has three rollers (with ball bearings) that butt up against the rod wrapper in such a way that the thread is in exactly the right position. There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder.

I think it is a thread tensioning bar.  Can you add a pic of what I suspect is a wooden wrapping fixture, and a close-up of the bar, and particularly, its fittings/screws – are they "pulley wheels" or just nuts and bolts? If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it.

How do you mean "how to use it?"  Do you mean rod-finishing in general, or the specifics of this set-up?  If you mean the particulars of this set-up, it doesn’t appear to be anything tricky or "non-standard," but if you mean rod-finishing in general, that’s quite a bit of info.  Anything in particular? TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA.

Response:

There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder.

Sort of a PS – It appears there are three holes of similar spacing near the edge of the wooden fixture.  Do these actually line up with the bar? R

Response:

If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA.

The current PacBay catalog lists their address as:         Pacific Bay International, Inc.         165 Business Park Loop         Sequim, WA 98382         (360) 683 – 2080         (360) 683 – 2234 (Fax) They are pretty nice folks at PacBay, I’m sure they can find an instruction book for you.  The list price on that thing is $338, if you were wondering. Kevin If you can’t figure out how to use it, just box it all up and ship it to me.

Response:

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat.

Wow, you are lucky.  That’s top notch stuff.  Sorry I can’t help – I’ve never actually used that stuff  (What I mean you gear whores, of course, is that I don’t make enough rods to go to the trouble of buying that stuff. Affordability is not the issue when you are at one with the industry – when you are content in your consumerism – when you… well, you know.)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at:    http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.

Steve, I suspect the long, threaded rods and blocks (there are two blocks, no?) is a cork clamp, and the two things in the middle are thread holders/wrapping jigs/parts.  From what I can see, I’d guess the black one is a holder for use on the larger jig/dryer, and the wooden looking one is a stand-alone wrapping jig, but ???.  Can you post close-ups of them? TC, R

Response:

could the black thing be a thread holder for the rod wrapper? does it attach to the wrapper somewhere? . .Walter .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Steve, I suspect the long, threaded rods and blocks (there are two blocks, no?) is a cork clamp, and the two things in the middle are thread holders/wrapping jigs/parts.  From what I can see, I’d guess the black one is a holder for use on the larger jig/dryer, and the wooden looking one is a stand-alone wrapping jig, but ???.  Can you post close-ups of them? TC, R

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Response:

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at:         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Boy you certainly did luck out.  That is some professional level equipment he gave you. Its hard to really tell from the picture, but the real seat and the handles also seem to be of very high quality. You’ve correctly identified most of the equipment.  The two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for gluing together cork rings for building your own handles. Have fun. Using a rod you put together yourself gives much of the same satisfaction one gets from fooling tough trout with flies you tied yourself. Bob Weinberger

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Question:

In his book, "Path of the Paddle," Bill Mason states that even though mfrs. will tell you that shallow-arch, shallow-vee or round-bottomed boats have better secondary stability than flat-bottomed canoes, he believes that flat-bottom boats perform just as well. Of course, he probably preferred traditional, canvas-wood canoes that were more likely flat-bottomed. I like paddling on lakes and rivers with my wife, but the majority of the time I spend in my canoe is fishing, so that takes top priority. By some standards, my canoe isn’t even really a canoe. It’s a barge. It’s a 19- foot, square-stern Grumman. It has a flat-bottom. I also have a sail rig for this canoe and have had it out in 2-3 foot chop, sailing, heeled over. It hasn’t come close to swamping. I routinely stand up in it while fishing. My 17 year-old son and his buddy both stand up in it at the same time. In fact, he told me that three of them were standing up in it the last time they went out.  Fools…  It is st Before you buy.

Response:

A canoe is a long narrow boat with fine entry and exit for paddling. A kayak is a low freeboard canoe usually decked over. You can get close to a canoe with narrow flat bottom double ended pirogue(?) or a skiff (with a transom). I designed and built a narrow skiff for light weight paddling and sailing. (There’s a writeup in file dogskiff.txt at website www.ncf.ca/~ag384.) A flat bottom boat with raked sides has reserve bouyancy. Mine is quite stable with 15 deg rake. I made a hoop tent to go over it and sleep in it. The idea is to be able to go where there are no campsites to get away from crowded canoe routes and noisy death-seeking kayakers. In his book, "Path of the Paddle," Bill Mason states that even though mfrs. will tell you that shallow-arch, shallow-vee or round-bottomed boats have better secondary stability than flat-bottomed canoes, he believes that flat-bottom boats perform just as well. Of course, he probably preferred traditional, canvas-wood canoes that were more likely flat-bottomed.

the original native bark canoes had round bottoms and were very unstable. when we were little we were not allowed to go in the canoe because it was considered too dangerous. we got to play around in a rowboat. I like paddling on lakes and rivers with my wife, but the majority of the time I spend in my canoe is fishing, so that takes top priority. By some standards, my canoe isn’t even really a canoe. It’s a barge. It’s a 19- foot, square-stern Grumman. It has a flat-bottom. I also have a sail rig for this canoe and have had it out in 2-3 foot chop, sailing, heeled over. It hasn’t come close to swamping. I routinely stand up in it while fishing. My 17 year-old son and his buddy both stand up in it at the same time. In fact, he told me that three of them were standing up in it the last time they went out.  Fools…  It is st

there are some good photos of a canoe under sail at the American Canoe Association website www.acanet.org – they hold canoe sailing regattas Before you buy.

– National Capital FreeNet      www.ncf.ca     Ottawa’s free community network

Response:

I must have been too long-winded;) My first message got cut short. I continue: The Grumman is stable as a rock. I suspect that some of this is due to it’s length. It is also almost 40-inches wide. However, it weighs a ton (120+ pounds). My wife doesn’t like paddling it too far because of the weight, and I ruptured a disk, so I’ve been thinking about adding another, much lighter canoe to the stable. I’ll have to get a trailer for the Grumman . I’ve paddled a friend’s 16-foot Old Town Penobscot that was way more tippy than I’d like for fishing. Every cast was an adventure for the other occupant. It was, however, a nice, fast canoe for day-touring. I test paddled a Wenonah Fisherman which is nice and light, and I thought would be quite stable. It was okay. But considering the width, (38-39 inches), I was not impressed with its stability. It’s only 14 feet long. A Mad River Revelation was much more stable than the Fisherman (which surprised me), and I have done quite a bit of fish Before you buy.

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This is really weird. It must be because I’m using Deja News. I continue: fishing out of this boat, but it doesn’t compare to the Grumman for stability. It’s 40 pounds lighter, but still more weight than I’d like. My question is, has anyone tried an Old Town Camper or Pathfinder? They are flat-bottomed. Do they have really bad secondary stability? or was Bill Mason right? I know what the literature says. I would like someone who is speaking from experience. The Camper weighs less than 60 LBS, so would be a nice light-weight option, but I have not yet found one to try out. Does anyone have a better recommendation? I wouldn’t want anything heavier the Revelation, and I don’t even think I want to go that heavy. Plus… I want initial stability that is at least as good as the Revelation, and would prefer something approaching that of the Grumman. Any ideas?? — Have a good day! L Rochester Before you buy.

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My question is, has anyone tried an Old Town Camper or Pathfinder? They are flat-bottomed. Do they have really bad secondary stability? or was Bill Mason right? I know what the literature says. I would like someone who is speaking from experience. Any ideas??

I’ve had my camper for at least 7 years(maybe more…the past is fuzzy). Before that I paddled a 17′ aluminum Grumman Eagle. I made my choice (chosing the Camper over the Penobscott) because of the age of my kids at that time. I wanted something stable so my toddlers could move around the boat. I knew that I wouldn’t be able to do a lot of heavy whitewater paddling until the kids got some age so I settled on the Camper. The only time I regret my decision is when I want to go fast on flatwater… It’s not exactly a speed demon. Stability ?  My favorite position is slouched against my seat back ( the plastic ones work great) with my long legs (I’m 6′5") hanging over the thwart or the sides. I’ll kneel (or at least sit up a little) for rapids, but that seems to be the only time lateral stability is an issue(it is still a canoe). As far as secondary stability, it will lean quite a bit, but keep your low brace handy. I’ve often wondered if there could possibly be an easier boat and if the trade-off for other features would be worth it( I still lust for a Penobscott 16). The kids are growing up, rolling their own boats, and not satisfied with class II water anymore. My Camper handles class III well enough, but there’s not really enough freeboard to stay dry in big waves. I think the aesthetics of the design make for a really cool,traditional look, but it also makes a big target when the wind is blowing. I’ve got to find a boat for bigger water, but I won’t be trading in for it. I wouldn’t be able to part with my Camper. It sounds like a model that could serve your purposes well.Good Luck Ted Bost

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My question is, has anyone tried an Old Town Camper or Pathfinder? They are flat-bottomed. Do they have really bad secondary stability? or was Bill Mason right? I know what the literature says. I would like someone who is speaking from experience. Any ideas?? I’ve had my camper for at least 7 years(maybe more…the past is fuzzy). Before that I paddled a 17′ aluminum Grumman Eagle. I made my choice (chosing the Camper over the Penobscott) because of the age of my kids at

well, here’s a vote for the Penobscot for a fishing canoe, but in fishing, I’m thinking flyfishing from a kneeling position….where the secondary stability gave me a wide *envelope* in which to rock around with. *(…and another one of Steve’s flyfishing LoG_CaBiN StOrIeS): I once had an extremely shallow-arched, 12footer of the unstable_to_the_max variety….talk about speed in getting to where you wanted to be, yes… but it was exciting…NOT in the way anyone wants…just throwing normal back/forward casts…with arm movement only.. I was dancing-on-the-edge of staying upright versus an instantaneous dip….whew..NOT FUN!:-)..BUT in the heat of summer..didn’t seem like all that a disasterous proposition. *(ahem, yes back to business!:-) The original poster might demo something in fiberglass, as a wide barge-style canoe in plastic will handle like the latest cruise_liner As always, the magic word….demo! tight_lines, steve *Hey while on the topic of excitement via a tippy canoe…any *war-stories*?

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To each his own but I think that you could easily fish out of a Penobscot. Maybe not two people standing.  I have a 16 and there are a LOT more unstabel boats than a 16.  It has a lot of secondary stability,  I took some guide courses in a disco 158(similar to a camper) and when you got it leaned a little to far you were wet NOW.  The Penobscot is a lot faster and better handling boat than the 158,  

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War Stories!!! When I first got my Wildfire  was unable to reenter from deep water.  I fell out in a local tidal creek and ended up swimming with the boat a long way in a head wind.  I could barely stand when reaching the shore.

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Have you tried canoe stabilizers? . – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My question is, has anyone tried an Old Town Camper or Pathfinder? They are flat-bottomed. Do they have really bad secondary stability? or was

Response:

There is a rigid hull foldable inflatable canoe which is highly stable, fast, very maneuverable that I have used for fishing in small , big rivers and lakes, standing up in the boat. You can find information about it at www.oviboat.com Roger  Sansoucy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A canoe is a long narrow boat with fine entry and exit for paddling. A kayak is a low freeboard canoe usually decked over. You can get close to a canoe with narrow flat bottom double ended pirogue(?) or a skiff (with a transom). I designed and built a narrow skiff for light weight paddling and sailing. (There’s a writeup in file dogskiff.txt at website www.ncf.ca/~ag384.) A flat bottom boat with raked sides has reserve bouyancy. Mine is quite stable with 15 deg rake. I made a hoop tent to go over it and sleep in it. The idea is to be able to go where there are no campsites to get away from crowded canoe routes and noisy death-seeking kayakers. In his book, "Path of the Paddle," Bill Mason states that even though mfrs. will tell you that shallow-arch, shallow-vee or round-bottomed boats have better secondary stability than flat-bottomed canoes, he believes that flat-bottom boats perform just as well. Of course, he probably preferred traditional, canvas-wood canoes that were more likely flat-bottomed. the original native bark canoes had round bottoms and were very unstable. when we were little we were not allowed to go in the canoe because it was considered too dangerous. we got to play around in a rowboat. I like paddling on lakes and rivers with my wife, but the majority of the time I spend in my canoe is fishing, so that takes top priority. By some standards, my canoe isn’t even really a canoe. It’s a barge. It’s a 19- foot, square-stern Grumman. It has a flat-bottom. I also have a sail rig for this canoe and have had it out in 2-3 foot chop, sailing, heeled over. It hasn’t come close to swamping. I routinely stand up in it while fishing. My 17 year-old son and his buddy both stand up in it at the same time. In fact, he told me that three of them were standing up in it the last time they went out.  Fools…  It is st there are some good photos of a canoe under sail at the American Canoe Association website www.acanet.org – they hold canoe sailing regattas Before you buy. — National Capital FreeNet      www.ncf.ca     Ottawa’s free community network

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Question:

Please tell me this is a joke.. Herman No joke. See    http://www.neuticles.com/nnpages/navindex.html

rw Geez! Your web browser must lead an interesting life.<G Kiyu

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If perchance you purchase for your dog a pair of neuticles, handle them with care, and  always clean at first your cuticles, in order to appreciate the texture, although this some appals, just grab your dog by the scruff of the neck and fondle then his balls, some dogs will not like this much, and may in fact be prone to bite, but others may in fact enjoy themselves, and are not inclined to fight. We are aware of course that some people think we may be crackers, but we are also doing a roaring trade selling plastic moulded knackers, these will fit quite well on nearly any animal,  from elephants to mice, and the animals are very proud of them, as they look and feel quite nice. our latest line for avid  fly-dressers whose bent towards  tradition lies, is a set of artificial testicles for rams, the hair from these, ties lovely flies. With many of these things of course, there may be an occasional hitch, before you fit the artificial testicles, make sure the animal is not a bitch, this tends to cause confusion, and the results of this may be absurd, causing weird behaviour, and "the sad dog syndrome" we have heard, as a service to our customers, we have an animal psychiatrist on call, who can inform with authority on the  suitability, of every single ball. Our custom balls fit everything, from antelopes to zebras, and even bulls and hogs, our product is so popular we have extended now our range with plastic dogs, these artificial animals are really excellent value , and will not bark or bite, and they are very cheap to keep, as they do not eat, and also do not shite, they are all machine washable, hygienic and of course devoid of germs, if you would like one of our artificial animals, just call us up for terms. Our range of lifelike products may be the answer to your wildest dreams, you could fish for massive artificial fish, in artificial lakes and streams, go on a safari and  see all the artificial things that crawl or creep, without any personal danger, in our special artificial plastic jeep, but the pride of our endeavours, guaranteed to save you strife, the crowning glory of our product range, is our special plastic wife. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My god… Did you read this: Quote: As Natural As Nature Intended    The texture and firmness of NEUTICLE NATURALS were crafted    based on the firmness and texture of actual animal testicles. End quote.

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These may be similar to the images that keep troubling Timmy. Poor ‘guy’. <g

Yes well, for a guy who eats everything he catches such images would indeed be troubling…or so we hope.

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I have a good supply of polar bear hair for fly tying. Polar Bear hair retails for over $20.00 a sq. in.  I have lots and will sell for $3.50 Sq. In.  I do have quite a bit but it will go fast. Before you buy.

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Number 1, go to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying. Number 2, put FOR SALE in your title or prepare to get flamed. I have a good supply of polar bear hair for fly tying. Polar Bear hair retails for over $20.00 a sq. in.  I have lots and will sell for $3.50 Sq. In.  I do have quite a bit but it will go fast. Before you buy.

– Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

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I’m looking for hair off a monkey’s balls. Polar bear hair just won’t do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a good supply of polar bear hair for fly tying. Polar Bear hair retails for over $20.00 a sq. in.  I have lots and will sell for $3.50 Sq. In.  I do have quite a bit but it will go fast. Before you buy.

Response:

If you want nice white coarse hair, it can be had from the balls of aged men sleeping in the park.  Procurement is your problem.  :{) "Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps."  – E. Philips

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Please let me know how many monkey balls and what color SPECIFICALLY you are looking for…   alos, please indicate of recent evolutionary cousins of monkeys will do if the exact product is not available.. edwin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for hair off a monkey’s balls. Polar bear hair just won’t do. I have a good supply of polar bear hair for fly tying. Polar Bear hair retails for over $20.00 a sq. in.  I have lots and will sell for $3.50 Sq. In.  I do have quite a bit but it will go fast. Before you buy.

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Or the synthetic equivalence? Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Please let me know how many monkey balls and what color SPECIFICALLY you are looking for…   alos, please indicate of recent evolutionary cousins of monkeys will do if the exact product is not available.. edwin I’m looking for hair off a monkey’s balls. Polar bear hair just won’t do. I have a good supply of polar bear hair for fly tying. Polar Bear hair retails for over $20.00 a sq. in.  I have lots and will sell for $3.50 Sq. In.  I do have quite a bit but it will go fast. Before you buy.

– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

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You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs.

I humbly relinquish any previous claim to "straight line of the week". Joe F.

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Or the synthetic equivalence? Herman Please let me know how many monkey balls and what color SPECIFICALLY you are looking for…   alos, please indicate of recent evolutionary cousins of monkeys will do if the exact product is not available.. edwin

You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs.

"Would you like those wrapped sir?" "No thanks, I’ll lick them here"<g. — Charlie…

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You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs.

Oh shit!   Those are for DOGS? Joe F.

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Yeah, and would you mind putting your leg down please ? TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs. Oh shit!   Those are for DOGS? Joe F.

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Please tell me this is a joke.. Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Or the synthetic equivalence? Herman Please let me know how many monkey balls and what color SPECIFICALLY you are looking for…   alos, please indicate of recent evolutionary cousins of monkeys will do if the exact product is not available.. edwin You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Please tell me this is a joke.. Herman

No joke. See         http://www.neuticles.com/nnpages/navindex.html — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Herman, Haven’t you ever seen a dog lick his "Neuticles "? Ernie, Remove SPAM to e-mail

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Please tell me this is a joke.. Herman Or the synthetic equivalence? Herman Please let me know how many monkey balls and what color SPECIFICALLY you are looking for…   alos, please indicate of recent evolutionary cousins of monkeys will do if the exact product is not available.. edwin You’re not far off, Herman. There’s a product called Neuticles that are synthetic replacement testicles for neutered dogs. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam) — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

But you have to wonder about a company that uses a quote from "The Daily Show" (fake news show on Comedy Central) as the lead on their "What the press is saying" page. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No joke. See http://www.neuticles.com/nnpages/navindex.html

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But you have to wonder about a company that uses a quote from "The Daily Show" (fake news show on Comedy Central) as the lead on their "What the press is saying" page.

I’m not endorsing the product! I think the whole concept is ridiculous. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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rw, I wasn’t implying anything about you.  I’m just amazed that the company thinks being lampooned on the Daily Show is ‘good press’.  Weirdly funny.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But you have to wonder about a company that uses a quote from "The Daily Show" (fake news show on Comedy Central) as the lead on their "What the press is saying" page. I’m not endorsing the product! I think the whole concept is ridiculous.

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Yes.. They do it merely to show off, imho. Basterds. Herman Herman, Haven’t you ever seen a dog lick his "Neuticles "? Ernie, Remove SPAM to e-mail

        Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

My god… Did you read this: Quote: As Natural As Nature Intended    The texture and firmness of NEUTICLE NATURALS were crafted    based on the firmness and texture of actual animal testicles. End quote. Yeah right.. like anyone would check.. or notice the difference.. Herman, horrified – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Please tell me this is a joke.. Herman No joke. See         http://www.neuticles.com/nnpages/navindex.html — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Yeah right.. like anyone would check.. or notice the difference.. Herman, horrified

Wonder how they recruit people for their quality control department (and what the interview is like)<g. — Charlie…

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Don’t. Don’t wonder, don’t imagine. I merely pondered and had more than enough trouble to loose the mental image. Herman Yeah right.. like anyone would check.. or notice the difference.. Herman, horrified Wonder how they recruit people for their quality control department (and what the interview is like)<g. — Charlie…

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Don’t. Don’t wonder, don’t imagine. I merely pondered and had more than enough trouble to loose the mental image.

These may be similar to the images that keep troubling Timmy. Poor ‘guy’. <g — Charlie…

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Question:

I used to live in Western Mass then I got a reel job…just kidding.

Hey thanks for the tip! Jerry Schrader, over 30 years a pro Fine Wedding Photography http://www.weddingphoto-ma.com

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I am looking for someone to fish the Westfield river with me.  Although I’ve fished many of the rivers in Ma., I have little experience with that river. I’m looking for entry points and the best streches for fly fishing. Suggested patterns would be a bonus.   I don’t need any coaching as I am a seasoned  fly fisher. Anyone interested please email.                                            thanks,                                                        Jerry Schrader

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I used to live in Western Mass then I got a reel job…just kidding. Try the section of Westfield where route 20 goes under the Mass Pike. That’s Turnpike, not the fish…anyway there used to be a tackle shop there that also did some private stocking of Brown Trout. Follow route 20 west outside of Westfield unitil you see the big Mass Pike Bridge overhead….good luck.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for someone to fish the Westfield river with me.  Although I’ve fished many of the rivers in Ma., I have little experience with that river. I’m looking for entry points and the best streches for fly fishing. Suggested patterns would be a bonus.   I don’t need any coaching as I am a seasoned  fly fisher. Anyone interested please email.                                            thanks,                                                        Jerry Schrader

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Question:

i need ideas for flys i can use to catch a muski on a fly rod. all help will be much appreciated.                               hopefully helped,                                                    coolcat913

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I need idaes (help) on fly patterens or just flys to use to catch a muski on a fly rod. i’ve had little help on this matter from some  people, books, and web sits I ethier read or talked to. so anything you can tell me will be much much appericated!                                   Hopfully helped,(by you)                                                             coolcat913  

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i need ideas for flys i can use to catch a muski on a fly rod. all help will be much appreciated.

        Here’s some help (hopely)… You should have flies to control all necesary depths (0-6ft). On this page got good flies, <AHREF="http://www.telusplanet.net/public/cnangler/html/<A/

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I have had most success with whooper-sized Dahlberg Divers.  Use long trailing tail of flashbou,a nd you may want to tie a trailer hook into the fly  (see saltwater rigs).  Bunny strips are excellent too, tied as streamers. — Indy http://realindy.com

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Visit a comprehensive web site for western Montana fly fishing.  The site offers descriptions and maps of local waters, articles from guides and outfitters and an extensive primer for teaching fly fishing to loved ones. Additionally, the site offers a tour of many of the top fly shops, outfitters and lodging. http://www.montana.com/flyfishing

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An article by Dave Odell on the Bitterroot River and one by Dave Archer on guiding/outfitting are particularly good.  These guys know their stuff.  They have both been guiding for close to twenty years in western Montana. – Charlie Miller – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Visit a comprehensive web site for western Montana fly fishing.  The site offers descriptions and maps of local waters, articles from guides and outfitters and an extensive primer for teaching fly fishing to loved ones. Additionally, the site offers a tour of many of the top fly shops, outfitters and lodging. http://www.montana.com/flyfishing

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Question:

 Could someone post a response as to where the location of the nearest hospital or emergency treatment center is to the St. Regis Canoe area in the northern adirondack section of New York State?   I’ve gotten conflicting info about Tupper Lake, Paul Smiths, etc. I would like to have the location in mind just in case a planned trip there has a medical emergency arise. Thanks, Woody

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Saranac Village has a very nice hospital. I had to take my wife there last year when she was bitten by a "carrion fly" who left behind some foreign matter and she had a nasty reaction to it. Her leg swelled up about twice its size and nasty red streaks were running up toward her hip… The highest volume patient service that the emergency crew there provides is the removal of fishing hooks . There is no hospital at Paul Smiths, although the College has a first aid facility when the students are there.  I suspect there is one at Tupper Lake, but I don’t know for certain. -Tim — Tim Hewitt – President, Downeast Chapter Wooden Canoe Heritage Association, Ltd http://www.wcha.org

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Question:

Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.  After I have them out of the baggie (where I store them in thier little plastic containers) I find that if I leave them in the little plastic containers they spill all over the place.  If I pour them out of their containers into the baggies and then try to get one at a time…well lets just say my carpet is well beaded.:-)  Any suggestions greatly appreciated. TIA Doris

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I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Pamela CALVIN: "You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don’t          help." HOBBES: "Well, you’ve done all you can do." Pamela A. Jones

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Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I think everyone has a different preferred storage method.  However, when I am working with them, I use a tray from LoRan that has six large compartments with built in pouring spouts and each compartment has it’s own clear lid.  Along the two long sides of this "tray" are troughs for use in laying out beads when you are doing a row of different coloured beads.  (Anyone who has done earthdancer knows what I mean by this and this tray was wonderfully handy while I was doing her.  *grin*)  I paid $4 for it at my local cross stitch shop.   Susan H. Simko

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I use the lid of my Craft-Stor tote.  It has several raised lines to hold the beads in and the area is large enough to let them spread out.   Meg in Los Angeles

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

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| I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them | on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from | rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can | just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight.   How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type? — My opinions are my own; if IBM shares them, they haven’t told me.

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Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I use little metal tart tins.  They are fluted for making *little* cakes actually.  My finger fits the flute and I am able to pull one bead at a time.  Also, the sides are high.  Similary and almost as good (except for the flutes) are little dishes for "on the side" foods, like soy sauce or salt cellars.  I find most of my gadgets either in the fishing or cooking sections. Keltia — "And the trouble is, if you don’t risk anything, you risk even more"                                 -Erica Jong

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Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight. How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type?

I (for the next 4 weeks) do live alone!  I mark the film containers with small white labels (1/2" x 3/4") which I also use the mark my homemake magnetic needleholder cards. Pamela

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I lost the attribution of who wrote this comment.  Very sorry! applying beads to a piece of work.

Since my beading projects so far have been small (Mill Hill bead kits), I put the whole project in a small tin with handles (I got the tin at Michaels and it shows an old advertisement for Singer.  They had another tin with handles of Hershey’s kisses, but I wasn’t too fond of the picture).  Thus, I can tote around my project when I am not working on it and when I *am* working on it, I just put the beads I want to use in the lid.  If I were working on a larger project (i.e. MLI or TW), then I could always use the tin to carry stuff like floss, scissor, needles, etc. and just pop the whole thing in my project tote and I would still be able to use the lid.  Then again, I may come up with a different method for those…I don’t know yet! — Bekki Lyn Conqueror of 2,7,10,13,12,15,16,18 "Tangled threads seem a stronghold/But illusions can deceive."   +++Fates Warning: The Ivory Gate of Dreams+++ "All acts of love and pleasure are Her rituals."

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

hi! coming out of lurkdom :0   i use a chrysanthenum <sp? tray that’s made for watercolours.  the porclain ones are nice, and i can put it into a padded carrying case, and carry my beading with me! happy beading, tree

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To store them (the ones that come loose or in hanks), I use those stackable plastic containers (buyable in craft stores) OR mini ziplock bags OR my new "discovery": mini glass jam containers, you know, those that they serve in hotel breakfasts… While working, I tried the plastic multiple compartments container, but my preferred method is cream cheese plastic lids. Simone BeadNet http://www.mcs.net/~simone/beadnet.html

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I have just discovered the multiple drawer small tool containers in the computer store. Each drawer is clear see through. With optional clear dividers, you can put 3 separate hanks in related colors into the same drawer.. You can pull the drawer out completely (there is a safety catch so you won’t dump the beads unintentionally) and pour out loose beads. They come in 15 to 36 drawer sizes. This is the first time I have found something to be excited about for organizing beads. Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

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Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company.   (The kind a clinic might use for biiiig blood samples—-about 6 or 7" long) They are clear and hold gobs and gobs of seed beads each.  (They also make a fun little "pop" when you first open them. 8 ^ ) I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…   I know there are several such odd-lot companies around. Monique in Bryan

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 Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

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Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist. Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!          ** Anne in Oregon                       ~ So many projects, so little time ~

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There’s a nice little system called the Bead Hive made out of little interlocking plastic drawers.  They get sold in sets of 12 for ~$10.  What is nice about them is that you can detach the drawers and just have the drawers filled with the beads you need for your project.  I’ve seen them in the CS&CC catalog and my favorite local needlework shop here in the Silicon Valley sells them too. Happy stitching, Cynthia

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I use the stacking screw top containers that screw on top of each other. The small ones are for the beads(I clip out the brand name and catalog number from the package as a label and slip it into the container with the beads), and there are slightly larger ones..I use these for my growing confetti collection.  These work fine for me…but will be kind of confusing as I start to stitch pieces calling for more similar beads. Mari

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My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!         ** Anne in Oregon                      ~ So many projects, so little time ~

I have found that our fly fishing shop has the best prices, by far, and better quality stackable containers (some bead shops have ones that don’t screw together very well after you get them apart).  Also, when I go to buy them, I get great service — usually I’m the only woman in the shop and all them men let me go first when ringing up the sale!  Chivalry lives! Karen

Response:

Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company. I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…  

    Monique, wasn’t that American Scientific?  With their really goof catalogues?  Martha Beth

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Question:

Does anyone know of any fishing news groups?  I am especially interested in Flyfishing. Thanks. Randy

Response:

Does anyone know of any fishing news groups?  I am especially interested in Flyfishing. Thanks. Randy

I don’t but email: for any fishing info you’d like. Leo UCD – Engineering                                   (303) 556-2356 "I’m only responsible for what’s not working right now." DoD# 0874

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Does anyone know of any fishing news groups?  I am especially interested in Flyfishing.

try rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Tim —

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Question:

[ Article crossposted from rec.outdoors.fishing ] [ Author was David Neils ]  Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is  a fantastic lodge with access to over 20 lakes and streams from  the main lodge on Nimpo Lake.  They also have several wilderness  outpost locations.  We chose the wilderness outpost location for  our honeymoon.  Everything was perfect.  The rainbows averaged  1-3 pounds and were anxious to devour several well-known flies.  We had the entire lake to ourselves for 4 days.  There were no  trails or roads into this place.  The Stewart’s have erected a  wonderful cabin that is more than comfortable.  We enjoyed  hiking, canoeing, backpacking, and lots of fishing.  I’d like to  go back and catch the huge rainbows in the river locations.  Stewart’s lodge is located near Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.  This  is a beautiful park with plenty of great hiking opportunities.  It reminded me of Glacier Park with one exception…no people.  You virtually have most areas to yourself.  Stewart’s Lodge and Camps is a great place for fisherman and  non-fisherman alike.  I know that we will go back soon.  I’ll be  happy to answer any questions about our experience.  You can also  find out more information at their WWW site:  http://www.on-the-fly.com  Sincerely,    David Neils            3919 Benthaven Drive  Fort Collins, Colorado 80526 — Software Usability Engineer – HP SESD HP E-Mail Mentor Program – Administrator – http://mentor.external.hp.com 3404 East Harmony Rd., Fort Collins, CO 80525 voice: 970-229-4742 fax: 970-229-7734

Response:

:  Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness :  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were :  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is …stuff deleted You can also call Rhonda or Duncan for a full color brochure/newsletter. This is great reading. Call 1-800-ON-THE-FLY Tell them I sent you.       — Software Usability Engineer – HP SESD HP E-Mail Mentor Program – Administrator – http://mentor.external.hp.com 3404 East Harmony Rd., Fort Collins, CO 80525 voice: 970-229-4742 fax: 970-229-7734

Response:

Question:

A friend of mine heard on NPR that an undergraduate physics student at Reed College has won a national physics prize for best undergraduate paper, and that his subject concerned the physics of flycasting.   Does anyone know who the student is, an email address, or how to get a copy of the paper?  I would be quite interested in seeing it and hearing from the student.         — Jim Comly Dr. James B. Comly (Jim); Physicist, Artificial Intelligence GE Corporate R&D, 1 River Road, Schenectady, NY 12301

Response:

A friend of mine heard on NPR that an undergraduate physics student at Reed College has won a national physics prize for best undergraduate paper, and that his subject concerned the physics of flycasting.   Does anyone know who the student is, an email address, or how to get a copy of the paper?  I would be quite interested in seeing it and hearing from the student.    – Jim Comly Dr. James B. Comly (Jim); Physicist, Artificial Intelligence GE Corporate R&D, 1 River Road, Schenectady, NY 12301

A week or so ago I posted to the flyfishing group details of an article in the American J. Physics on the subject of the physics of flycasting.  I think the author was R.J. Adams but I did not keep the details of the reference.  If anyone reads both groups they may be able to give the details I posted. Gordon MacPherson Dunn School of Pathology Oxford University

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For those of you who are interested, there are two articles on the subject of flycasting in the American Journal of Physics. The references are:   The mechanics of flycasting: The flyline   Graig A. Spolek   Am. J. Phys. vol. 54, September 1986, pp 832-836   The physics of fly casting   John M. Robson   Am. J. Phys. vol. 58, March 1990, pp 234-240 Hope you enjoy them ! Eric Allen

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